Great job on that fix. I have done similar fixes like that my whole life lol. I used to “rebuild” cutting edges for snow plows and dozer blades to escavator buckets and even snowmobile ski skags. But the most build up welding I ever did was what we called “clad” welding on the big cast piece that the anchor chain rubbed on when they dropped or picked up the anchor on the aegis destroyers and the three new zumwalt destroyers that we built at Bath Iron Works. I used to burn 90-120 lbs of wire a night clad welding those godam things lol. And yes I’m so sick of this heat and humidity but on the other hand I know the farmers crops in the northeast needs it. Humidity is supposed to break tonight here in Maine!! As always WORK SAFE 🇺🇸🇺🇸😎😎 HI YENKO!!!!!!
Great video a lot of down equipment I know it is a lot of hurry and wait enjoyed a lot on my rake add sledge and grind down never did that just bought new so again I learned thank you enjoyed a lot thank you for your time
Duffy you dah ag man! It was designed with fail points starting carrousels, the toy size shaft, nuts, bolts & the tine attachments. The undercarriage is heavy-duty, but the rake carrousels were intentionally designed/engineered that attachments & tines would require constant repair/replacement parts!
After watching the vid. The welding of the shafts to increase the size will help but it will also may weaken the shafts. Taking the temper out of the shaft. Usings shims i.e. aluminum tape wrapped around the shaft then sliding on the arm and upsizing to take the play from the arm and holding it steady. No walking around on the shaft. A better fix would be bushings made for the shafts. Welding will fix it temporarily. The breaking of the stub shafts will happen next. Time to look at a newer less used rake.
The east coast has been almost 100 if not just over it, then add humidity and you’ve got a Russian sauna! There comes a time when it’s better to get a newer rake. When equipment is just sitting and making you wait to fix then it’s coasting you money. Plus the money, time to fix it. The rake and some other stuff on the farm needs replaced. Pops needs to start planning for that.
Are those rakes really the way to go versus wheel rakes. My two 10 wheels are ancient and still going strong with a little grease occasionally and a 5 minute tine replacement 2-3 times a season.
Krone 710 double is like 30k they just priced us 1 back in may, think the kuhn was even more. We had a 20yr old single kuhn that lost an arm out of the cam track roll pin on the inside at cam launched. Rest of it is probably just as sloppy as your double. The frames are built pretty heavy duty but inners could use some upgrades especiallythose inner arm machined piecesthe roll pins go through for dry hay they're OK but I thinkheavy wetter crop takes its toll on them. On a side Note spotted yanko in the drivers seat in the work truck the other day was going to pop in a give him a treat but we were kinda busy chopping and I wasn't sure if he is protective of his truck.
I know its too late and a little more work, but what about drilling 2 smaller holes per shaft and put a wearable bushing in them with a shoulder bolt? I dont know the whole set up and requirements so thats why im asking, just a question.
Hello seems to me that is a forget me switch. Forget to turn on when climb into tractor and forget me when I climb out of tractor. Just a thought have a good day.
On that double rake, why can't you shem them out holes to get through this round of raking. Even if you have to use one size smaller bolt to hold it. Blèssing.
Stop band-aiding crap, it only costs you more money in the long run. I f you're already doing the work do it once and fix it right the first time instead of half assing it and having to do it twice or three times... Get an arc welder and load them stubs up with some 7018 rod won't take long to build up the surface completely
You’ll have the A/C working just in time for winter! Lol.
Thanks for the content everyday.
Great job on that fix. I have done similar fixes like that my whole life lol. I used to “rebuild” cutting edges for snow plows and dozer blades to escavator buckets and even snowmobile ski skags. But the most build up welding I ever did was what we called “clad” welding on the big cast piece that the anchor chain rubbed on when they dropped or picked up the anchor on the aegis destroyers and the three new zumwalt destroyers that we built at Bath Iron Works. I used to burn 90-120 lbs of wire a night clad welding those godam things lol. And yes I’m so sick of this heat and humidity but on the other hand I know the farmers crops in the northeast needs it. Humidity is supposed to break tonight here in Maine!! As always WORK SAFE 🇺🇸🇺🇸😎😎 HI YENKO!!!!!!
Looks hotter than Hades out there!
👍👍 that's the kind of weather that seperates the men from the boys
Great video a lot of down equipment I know it is a lot of hurry and wait enjoyed a lot on my rake add sledge and grind down never did that just bought new so again I learned thank you enjoyed a lot thank you for your time
If I could, I would buy you the best damn equipment money can buy!
Keep up the good work 👏
Those back starter bolts are fun to get two.
Duffy you dah ag man!
It was designed with fail points starting carrousels, the toy size shaft, nuts, bolts & the tine attachments. The undercarriage is heavy-duty, but the rake carrousels were intentionally designed/engineered that attachments & tines would require constant repair/replacement parts!
You got the new mower hopefully you can get a newer rake next year 🤞 I think yours deserves to retire now hahaha great video Duffy 👍
My new Holland pro cart 819 is a kick ass rake fast cheap and low maintenance
Might it be more cost affective on that rake to drill the holes out and install larger bolts? Seems like less down time.
I agree upsize to the next size bolt
When you upsize the bolt you change the weak link meaning the bolt won't break anymore but something else will...
@@tylermallory2504 I think that's a pretty inefficient shear bolt mechanism, in my opinion. Certainly not worth worrying about.
After watching the vid. The welding of the shafts to increase the size will help but it will also may weaken the shafts. Taking the temper out of the shaft. Usings shims i.e. aluminum tape wrapped around the shaft then sliding on the arm and upsizing to take the play from the arm and holding it steady. No walking around on the shaft.
A better fix would be bushings made for the shafts. Welding will fix it temporarily. The breaking of the stub shafts will happen next.
Time to look at a newer less used rake.
Put some thin sheetmetal between the tubes and axles!
We take every tine of rake and put little bit of grease on that piece from rotor to prevent wearing out
The east coast has been almost 100 if not just over it, then add humidity and you’ve got a Russian sauna! There comes a time when it’s better to get a newer rake. When equipment is just sitting and making you wait to fix then it’s coasting you money. Plus the money, time to fix it. The rake and some other stuff on the farm needs replaced. Pops needs to start planning for that.
Are those rakes really the way to go versus wheel rakes. My two 10 wheels are ancient and still going strong with a little grease occasionally and a 5 minute tine replacement 2-3 times a season.
Krone 710 double is like 30k they just priced us 1 back in may, think the kuhn was even more. We had a 20yr old single kuhn that lost an arm out of the cam track roll pin on the inside at cam launched. Rest of it is probably just as sloppy as your double. The frames are built pretty heavy duty but inners could use some upgrades especiallythose inner arm machined piecesthe roll pins go through for dry hay they're OK but I thinkheavy wetter crop takes its toll on them. On a side Note spotted yanko in the drivers seat in the work truck the other day was going to pop in a give him a treat but we were kinda busy chopping and I wasn't sure if he is protective of his truck.
For the rake can you drive a sleeve into the shaft? Drill it out to fit the sleeve and then replace the sleeve when they wear out? Just a thought.
I would love help you with ac wise, when are you guys doing tours again
Hot humid weather sucks , makes everything take longer to do
can you sleeve those shafts and make them longer deeper into rake arm less stress on that shaft and rake arm
For those starter bolts, cut off the box end of a 12 point wrench and weld a 3/8 extension to it
I know its too late and a little more work, but what about drilling 2 smaller holes per shaft and put a wearable bushing in them with a shoulder bolt? I dont know the whole set up and requirements so thats why im asking, just a question.
We had one of those rakes and what a money pit it was. Take a few acres and foxy it for a couple days ahhhh
You can remove arms from rotor by undoing 4 bolts.
The engineers always say....... you know what boys fuck it we don’t have to fix it
👋friends
we where looking at a new claas liner 2600 rake an I think they wanted 35k Canadian at our dealer
A SIP 600/20 is around 21k
Hello seems to me that is a forget me switch. Forget to turn on when climb into tractor and forget me when I climb out of tractor. Just a thought have a good day.
That kind of heat, why i shaved my beard, got a very short haircut and quit wearing a hat in the heat.
On that double rake, why can't you shem them out holes to get through this round of raking. Even if you have to use one size smaller bolt to hold it. Blèssing.
John Deere wants you to let them work on it like everyone else
book knowledge engineers thats the problem buddy
Hello 100 % 100 john deere
Stop band-aiding crap, it only costs you more money in the long run. I f you're already doing the work do it once and fix it right the first time instead of half assing it and having to do it twice or three times... Get an arc welder and load them stubs up with some 7018 rod won't take long to build up the surface completely
The Kuhn is probably metric!