Brilliant, Sir. An elegant DIY. Looks like no real trouble spots where error could be induced, other than assuming the rears are true to car centerline, but still so elegant. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. 1 Surely with this method, you need two devices, one on each side of the car ? The other side is likely to move when you are adjusting the tracking, so a lot of swapping from side to side ought to be necessary. 2 For me, the main reason for doing it myself is motivation and incentives. I'm the one paying for the tyres, so I want to get the tracking right. On the other hand, most of the people who do tracking checks also sell tyres. So they sell more tyres if it is slightly out. 3 You also can't trust some of the people doing tracking. Years ago, I took my AX for a free wheel alignment check. They showed me it was out of spec, but they couldn't free off the track rod nuts. So I did this at home, calculated how far I needed to rotate the thread and adjusted it. About a month later, I went back for another free alignment check. The guy quickly told me it was out of spec and needed adjustment, for which there was a fee. I said really ? What is the reading ? It then took him far longer to get a reading. I said "I think that is in spec" & we went to the chart at the back of the garage to confirm that. 4 After all that, I made my own tool, which is essentially like a big caliper. However, it's fiddly to use, so I want a laser device.
Bloody good idea! my only question is what if the rear wheels have adjustable toe (like some VW's), that'd need setting first. You are right about garages, they refer to tracking as if it is some mystical science.
Thanks for sharing. This is the best method on TH-cam. Simple and effective. Way better than the string method. I have cheap a Hawkeye laser leveller and made good use of it using this method.
Excellent...So simple yet so very clever. Best home alignment system I have tried. So much better than string alignment etc (and I have tried them all) Thank You So Much for sharing your system on TH-cam.
I use something similar to yourself. Im a carpenter by trade so I have two small dewalt line lasers in the tool box. . I set them up exactly parallel with each other, and more important I adjust them to make sure they are in line with the vehicle by measuring off the centre cap of each wheel. This way I can check toe in and toe out of all 4 wheels and even better again I can check camber of all 4 wheels. It works!
I was just dreaming of how i would build a set up like this and here you've done it. thanks for the great video. to all those who say it's not good enough fine, take your car to the shop.
Great idea which I might modify slightly, this method only works accurately on a live axle vehicle, if you have independent rear suspension and the tracking is off it will give a false reading on the front
That was very was ingenious, my hats off to you. I'm like you, I just about had it with these garages myself, they can never be trusted, because here in the U.S. it's all about the money $$
I like your innovative idea, Paul. You've got me thinking about an even better way, using the laser mounted on a bearing that would permit spinning it in the same plane as the wheel rotation. This would let you pick up points behind and in front of each wheel and allow a very accurate computation of wheel angles.
The ability to read from various points in real time by the ability to rotate the front and rear wheels would certainly give you an increased potential for accuracy, however that may be negated by having the wheels unloaded during alignment, unless you have all four wheels sitting in a roller cup where they can be loose and retain ability to rotate around their axis.
nicely done... second example below realizing the rear wheels arent reliable... :) recently i devised a similar home alignment process... I am not going to video... 1. align steering wheel as rolling to parking 2. tape measure stretched out behind both front wheels 3 second tape behind both rear wheels 4 shoot "laser" from 39 dollar laser from harbor freight and align tape on driverside using an even foot number. 5 walk to pass side and shoot laser across both tapes and determine similar adjustment plus one laser width of toe in... perfect alignment. 6. test drive for satisfaction and repeat as needed. note: a person can use the back tires as a reference to identify the fronts are aligned in a general sense... but as i experienced... there is no call to trust the rear tires as camber can affect how the rears are in comparison to the fronts... trust the tapes laying on the ground over where the laser splashes on the numbers over using distances away from the tires.
That's a nice contraption you made but you are assuming quite a bit as 0 and square. For toe in up front, you would do better to just lay under the car and measure from tread to tread in the front of the tires, and then in the back of the tires with a tape measure. You can confirm your front toe the way you do it here and with a tape measure as I suggest. The contraption you are using is the way we used to set up rear ends on big diesel trucks, actually still do sometimes, but we would measure off of the frame at some point. You can do the same with your truck. Find a hole underneath on the frame some place toward the front. Stick a tape measure in the hole and pull the tape measure outward and use your laser as you have here to measure. Do the same thing on the other side. This will help show how square your rear end is to the frame of the truck. However, this is still assuming your rear end is perpendicular to the center line of the frame, but you can easily measure length under the truck with a tape measure. Find a hole on the frame someplace, stick your tape measure in the hole and measure to a specific point on the rear end. Do the same thing on the other side. You can cross measure in an X pattern as well. You can do the same thing in the front. Measure the ball joints. This will give you like castor measurements for the left and right front wheels. Its good to know how to do it yourself, because I only know one trust worthy suspension tech, well maybe two good techs, and I haven't seen either one of them in years and years. Good luck. Oh, one other trick if you don't have turn tables for the wheels, is get a piece of metal plate for each wheel and put some grease on it. You can even put a piece of cellophane wrap on top of the grease and use it again and again. It's messy, but it helps. It's still good to role the car back and forth and re check your work. Don't forget to bounce the car up and down a few times. Open a door and hold on and use your weight to rock the car some. Do the same on the other side.
Absolutely brilliant. To the assclowns who keep on promoting garages, why?? If you don't believe in diy or incapable of it, then go watch something else. Plus, you obviously have not gone to a garage a wheel alignment before. I've been to two shops for a wheel alignment, in both instances the steering wasn't straight after the fix, and the car still pulls to one side despite new tires and a thoroughly-checked front end.
Thanks for replying. I was under the impression that rear wheels with independent suspension MIGHT have a toe in measure. Maybe my impression was wrong
I like the idea but you are assuming that the rear wheels are parallel on all vehicles. What would happen if the rear wheel was toe in/out? or the rear wheel was bent?
Could you fit a center point on the device without using the rim of the rear wheel for measurement - you could then measure that the center of the rear wheel matched to the center of the front what ever the rear wheel alignment?
Paul Gibbs wheel tracking is a big con, a garage fitted 2 new tyres and tracked the front, 7 months later both wheels are bare on the outside edge. I've just changed the rod ends and I'm not paying £30 to just adjust the toe.
@@Paulgibbs99 the laser might also be shooting slightly away from the direction the level is pointing, but you could calibrate for this by measuring tread to tread on forward/back of the front tyres if you want confidence it's correct on the first use.
@@Paulgibbs99 I was thinking the same thing but in this application it is probably close enough. For sport cars that do have fully adjustable front and rear suspension the string method works well (if done properly). It just takes more time to align and square the strings but you can also make a similar attachment device for reference points, and if you really want to get fancy you could attach scales to it center, front and back of the wheel for quick easy reference. Then get one of these: www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/hands-free-camber-caster-gauge/ and you can do your own alignments. My local shop has a Hunter alignment rack and will check and print out my alignment values for $25, I have found that I can get within .05 degrees of what they get with an alignment rack. The fancy alignment rigs are more accurate, but they are are only as good as the person doing the alignment, and most won't take the time to properly align your car so I am better off doing it myself. Plus if you are like me and like to modify and experiment, you can also save a lot of money.
you assume the laser is parallel on the back wheel.Better to use a 2 axis laser ,parallel it to the back then measure front. Of course you have measure both sides of the front without moving wheel too as you need the delta, which is not an issue using wheel plates
that mitsubishi is like mine ..the castor and camber is critical on those cars and has one adjustment for both ...your rears where off the front right ? the outer edge is chewing out because of to much positive camber ...or back of vehicle weighed down pulling car up .. much more to just the toe on these mitsubishis
I have a newer alloy wheel which isn’t recessed but concave in shape not like the one in your video. Any thoughts from anybody about how I’m going to Setup the jig for alignment on this type of wheels. I was thinking about screwing in wheel hangers as a mount for the Gauge. Any replies or ideas would be greatly appreciated
I totally agree with your views with regards to RIP-OFF so-called technicians. I took a car to a station had two [2] new tyres fitted as I need to drive to London from Cairnryan and back over the course of the Friday evening Saturday and Sunday. Upon returning home the two [2] front tyre were done. Not 1mm of tread left. Kojak style tyres. Returning to the so-called tyres specialist station, the 3 technicians looked at each other and admitted no-one knew how to operate the new equipment. Better off with the string method.
I had similar as your setup but much accuracy on measurement. Basically if wheel base, front axial, rear axial are known then you can calculate angle of rear wheel based on measurement relative of of front axial .
what if the rear tires are not align properly, have u thought about that ?
5 ปีที่แล้ว
Most (not all) cars can't have the rear geometry altered without aftermarket parts so if they're not aligned for whatever reason do you really think the garage doing the alignment will take that into consideration? Nope.
@@dopiaza2006 that would be simple just split the car in half take measurements off that to get rears straight with car, then fine tune toe using this method. Toe is the most important measurement you must get right or you will be eating tires really fast. Trust me those high dollar machines can be set up 100 different ways I never liked them at all because if your not paying attention it will throw you off with the slightest movement, string will always get you within good enough toe specs!!!!
Hi! Can you post a video where you show how you put this together? Are those wing nuts and studs going through the level? Here in the United States alignment shops are worthless most of the time and leave the wheels with little to no tow in, or worse towed out. I use a tape measure and measure of the tires tread, but this is pretty slick invention!
It is a good start, it would be better to mount the level on the front wheel so that you are measuring only one measurement from the laser beam to the rear wheel. Any small toe in will magnify the measurement. Also just use some small bungee cords to hold the level to the rim. ...so much easier! And if you really want to get accurate aim the laser farther away and measure at that distance.
Honestly, I don't know why I pay for wheel alignments as most of the guys I've used don't really know what they're doing. Nice little tool and I can see how you use it for toe in but how would you use it for castor?
Not trying to be a pain but it looks like you have your level upside down. How would you know if it's level because generally glass levels have a slight arch in the glass and only work correctly when on top.
I like this very much, I came to your video as I am about to make something similar. The one thing I wonder is how much variance there is in the ruler not quite being at 90 degrees? That would make a mm or two difference couldn't it? and you are making ajustments at the mm level. Something strapped to the wheel with a track front to back to slide a 'ruler' at exactly 90 is perhaps needed? Actually just screwing the ruler to a batton at 90 degrees and having that batton front to back , then swapped back to front would be enough to do it. I worry that holding the ruler like in the video could easily give readings that differ by 2 or 3mm due to flex What are your thoughts on this please?
Yes I realsied afterwards that you could move it until you get the lowest reading :-) I have bought a laser level to give it a try myself. Such a good idea!
@@Paulgibbs99 Well some might not be aware of rear toe, all my previous cars had zero rear toe and the track front and rear was the same. Not so with my current car. Which i found out the hard way wearing a tyre out in 3000 miles.
This method has questionable accuracy. The method utilised at front cannot be accurate as you cannot confirm the angle that you hold the ruler. Also i would not use this methid for four wheel tracking as you are assuming the rears are straight. The principle is nearly there to track front whhels but you require a similar rig on front wheels with an accurate distance from wheel with a gauge to ensure accuracy.
Best DIY toe in, toe out, device I've seen yet, I'm making one ASAP!. Well done mate.
Brilliant, Sir. An elegant DIY. Looks like no real trouble spots where error could be induced, other than assuming the rears are true to car centerline, but still so elegant. Thank you!
alignment for slingscghot5, y r6
Tracking in Dublin costs about 40 euro and have had it cocked up with potholes etc in no time. This is a very good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video. Very interesting.
1 Surely with this method, you need two devices, one on each side of the car ? The other side is likely to move when you are adjusting the tracking, so a lot of swapping from side to side ought to be necessary.
2 For me, the main reason for doing it myself is motivation and incentives. I'm the one paying for the tyres, so I want to get the tracking right. On the other hand, most of the people who do tracking checks also sell tyres. So they sell more tyres if it is slightly out.
3 You also can't trust some of the people doing tracking. Years ago, I took my AX for a free wheel alignment check. They showed me it was out of spec, but they couldn't free off the track rod nuts. So I did this at home, calculated how far I needed to rotate the thread and adjusted it. About a month later, I went back for another free alignment check. The guy quickly told me it was out of spec and needed adjustment, for which there was a fee. I said really ? What is the reading ? It then took him far longer to get a reading. I said "I think that is in spec" & we went to the chart at the back of the garage to confirm that.
4 After all that, I made my own tool, which is essentially like a big caliper. However, it's fiddly to use, so I want a laser device.
LOL, ... just block the steering wheel or steering rack..
No matter what might be a "what if" you have opened my eyes to the possibility of doing this myself. I thank you.
This will only work if your rear wheels have 0 toe. Some vehicles, such as my 03 Mountaineer, have rear toe.
Agree entirely
Bloody good idea! my only question is what if the rear wheels have adjustable toe (like some VW's), that'd need setting first. You are right about garages, they refer to tracking as if it is some mystical science.
Thanks for sharing. This is the best method on TH-cam. Simple and effective. Way better than the string method. I have cheap a Hawkeye laser leveller and made good use of it using this method.
Excellent...So simple yet so very clever.
Best home alignment system I have tried.
So much better than string alignment etc (and I have tried them all)
Thank You So Much for sharing your system on TH-cam.
This is the best method. Way better than string method
I use something similar to yourself. Im a carpenter by trade so I have two small dewalt line lasers in the tool box. . I set them up exactly parallel with each other, and more important I adjust them to make sure they are in line with the vehicle by measuring off the centre cap of each wheel. This way I can check toe in and toe out of all 4 wheels and even better again I can check camber of all 4 wheels. It works!
Hi mate, can you do a short video and share it please, as I want to built mine as well. Thanks
I was just dreaming of how i would build a set up like this and here you've done it. thanks for the great video. to all those who say it's not good enough fine, take your car to the shop.
Brilliant! I just ordered a laser level for £8 from Amazon and went straight out and built the frame in readiness for its arrival tomorrow.
I did the same and it works perfectly: no more vibrations and steering wheel is perfectly centered. thank you!
Nicely done no string to trip over and more accurate. Top marks, I'll be sorting one out for the landy
Remember calibration of the level against itself first is vital, as from the store accuracy on these is only 0.5mm per metre.
Great idea which I might modify slightly, this method only works accurately on a live axle vehicle, if you have independent rear suspension and the tracking is off it will give a false reading on the front
That was very was ingenious, my hats off to you. I'm like you, I just about had it with these garages myself, they can never be trusted, because here in the U.S. it's all about the money $$
Its really hard to find a good garage... they all want to make big bucks off every transaction!!
DITTO!!
Wow...., This is the first video I've seen that made it look so easy, video, well made. Thank you.
I like your innovative idea, Paul. You've got me thinking about an even better way, using the laser mounted on a bearing that would permit spinning it in the same plane as the wheel rotation. This would let you pick up points behind and in front of each wheel and allow a very accurate computation of wheel angles.
The ability to read from various points in real time by the ability to rotate the front and rear wheels would certainly give you an increased potential for accuracy, however that may be negated by having the wheels unloaded during alignment, unless you have all four wheels sitting in a roller cup where they can be loose and retain ability to rotate around their axis.
Bloody genius! I've had the same problem with plebs at tyre shops not knowing what they are doing. I'm going to try this
nicely done... second example below
realizing the rear wheels arent reliable... :)
recently i devised a similar home alignment process...
I am not going to video...
1. align steering wheel as rolling to parking
2. tape measure stretched out behind both front wheels
3 second tape behind both rear wheels
4 shoot "laser" from 39 dollar laser from harbor freight and align tape on driverside using an even foot number.
5 walk to pass side and shoot laser across both tapes and determine similar adjustment plus one laser width of toe in... perfect alignment.
6. test drive for satisfaction and repeat as needed.
note: a person can use the back tires as a reference to identify the fronts are aligned in a general sense... but as i experienced... there is no call to trust the rear tires as camber can affect how the rears are in comparison to the fronts...
trust the tapes laying on the ground over where the laser splashes on the numbers over using distances away from the tires.
That's a nice contraption you made but you are assuming quite a bit as 0 and square. For toe in up front, you would do better to just lay under the car and measure from tread to tread in the front of the tires, and then in the back of the tires with a tape measure. You can confirm your front toe the way you do it here and with a tape measure as I suggest. The contraption you are using is the way we used to set up rear ends on big diesel trucks, actually still do sometimes, but we would measure off of the frame at some point. You can do the same with your truck. Find a hole underneath on the frame some place toward the front. Stick a tape measure in the hole and pull the tape measure outward and use your laser as you have here to measure. Do the same thing on the other side. This will help show how square your rear end is to the frame of the truck. However, this is still assuming your rear end is perpendicular to the center line of the frame, but you can easily measure length under the truck with a tape measure. Find a hole on the frame someplace, stick your tape measure in the hole and measure to a specific point on the rear end. Do the same thing on the other side. You can cross measure in an X pattern as well. You can do the same thing in the front. Measure the ball joints. This will give you like castor measurements for the left and right front wheels. Its good to know how to do it yourself, because I only know one trust worthy suspension tech, well maybe two good techs, and I haven't seen either one of them in years and years. Good luck. Oh, one other trick if you don't have turn tables for the wheels, is get a piece of metal plate for each wheel and put some grease on it. You can even put a piece of cellophane wrap on top of the grease and use it again and again. It's messy, but it helps. It's still good to role the car back and forth and re check your work. Don't forget to bounce the car up and down a few times. Open a door and hold on and use your weight to rock the car some. Do the same on the other side.
For dyi this is spot on. And like many have said good shops are hard to find anymore.
Thanks Paul for the excellent idea and execution. Cheers Darren
Absolutely brilliant. To the assclowns who keep on promoting garages, why?? If you don't believe in diy or incapable of it, then go watch something else. Plus, you obviously have not gone to a garage a wheel alignment before. I've been to two shops for a wheel alignment, in both instances the steering wasn't straight after the fix, and the car still pulls to one side despite new tires and a thoroughly-checked front end.
waw this is the best idea so far out there that I've seen. good job.
Amazing idea mate!!Do you have any ideas though how to check the rear if it's independent as all adjustments are relying on the rears being bang on?
I love simple DIY. I need to figure out how to do my Crew cab Dually using this other then removing the outside wheel but this is a great idea.
Really helpful, thanks. Here in Spain, they charge €30 for tracking even if you buy 4 new tyres! I shall make a tracking device similar to yours.
here in Stockholm Sweden they charge 120-170 euros.
Thanks for replying. I was under the impression that rear wheels with independent suspension MIGHT have a toe in measure. Maybe my impression was wrong
fine for a vehicle that has no toe on the rear wheels, but if it has any toe at the rear then this will give a false reading
Very good, still a valuable video Anno 2024! Thank you!
I really like it. It's nice alignment tool, look like a professional and it worth. I'm gonna make it as well. Spot on👍👍👍
Brilliant set up mate, well done +++++++++++++
Great idea can you tell me what you used between level and wood as a spacer some kind of block ?
Thanks for asking. I was trying to figure that out.
Thanks Paul , I will do a rear wheel toe check.
I like the idea but you are assuming that the rear wheels are parallel on all vehicles.
What would happen if the rear wheel was toe in/out? or the rear wheel was bent?
Could you fit a center point on the device without using the rim of the rear wheel for measurement - you could then measure that the center of the rear wheel matched to the center of the front what ever the rear wheel alignment?
George Craft solid rear axle this is absolutely brilliant.. now if you have rear suspension that is adjustable this is not going to be it
Paul Gibbs wheel tracking is a big con, a garage fitted 2 new tyres and tracked the front, 7 months later both wheels are bare on the outside edge. I've just changed the rod ends and I'm not paying £30 to just adjust the toe.
@@Paulgibbs99 the laser might also be shooting slightly away from the direction the level is pointing, but you could calibrate for this by measuring tread to tread on forward/back of the front tyres if you want confidence it's correct on the first use.
@@Paulgibbs99 I was thinking the same thing but in this application it is probably close enough. For sport cars that do have fully adjustable front and rear suspension the string method works well (if done properly). It just takes more time to align and square the strings but you can also make a similar attachment device for reference points, and if you really want to get fancy you could attach scales to it center, front and back of the wheel for quick easy reference. Then get one of these: www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/hands-free-camber-caster-gauge/ and you can do your own alignments. My local shop has a Hunter alignment rack and will check and print out my alignment values for $25, I have found that I can get within .05 degrees of what they get with an alignment rack. The fancy alignment rigs are more accurate, but they are are only as good as the person doing the alignment, and most won't take the time to properly align your car so I am better off doing it myself. Plus if you are like me and like to modify and experiment, you can also save a lot of money.
you assume the laser is parallel on the back wheel.Better to use a 2 axis laser ,parallel it to the back then measure front. Of course you have measure both sides of the front without moving wheel too as you need the delta, which is not an issue using wheel plates
Excellent approach, well thought-through application.
You gained my respect. I learned something new today. Thank you
Had a question about the bubble. Does the bubble hav to stay centered for finding your alignment ?
that mitsubishi is like mine ..the castor and camber is critical on those cars and has one adjustment for both ...your rears where off the front right ? the outer edge is chewing out because of to much positive camber ...or back of vehicle weighed down pulling car up .. much more to just the toe on these mitsubishis
I have a newer alloy wheel which isn’t recessed but concave in shape not like the one in your video. Any thoughts from anybody about how I’m going to Setup the jig for alignment on this type of wheels. I was thinking about screwing in wheel hangers as a mount for the Gauge. Any replies or ideas would be greatly appreciated
I totally agree with your views with regards to RIP-OFF so-called technicians. I took a car to a station had two [2] new tyres fitted as I need to drive to London from Cairnryan and back over the course of the Friday evening Saturday and Sunday. Upon returning home the two [2] front tyre were done. Not 1mm of tread left. Kojak style tyres. Returning to the so-called tyres specialist station, the 3 technicians looked at each other and admitted no-one knew how to operate the new equipment. Better off with the string method.
I had similar as your setup but much accuracy on measurement. Basically if wheel base, front axial, rear axial are known then you can calculate angle of rear wheel based on measurement relative of of front axial .
great idea mate, well done
That seems to be a great idea, but isn't it difficult to square the ruler on the front wheel to get an accurate measurement from the laser?
I agree, unless the ruler on the front is at 90 degrees it could be miles out on the laser spot
what if the rear tires are not align properly, have u thought about that ?
Most (not all) cars can't have the rear geometry altered without aftermarket parts so if they're not aligned for whatever reason do you really think the garage doing the alignment will take that into consideration? Nope.
Most cars these days have adjustable rear suspension including every Golf since around 2004.
@@dopiaza2006 yes but it's set
@@dopiaza2006 that would be simple just split the car in half take measurements off that to get rears straight with car, then fine tune toe using this method. Toe is the most important measurement you must get right or you will be eating tires really fast. Trust me those high dollar machines can be set up 100 different ways I never liked them at all because if your not paying attention it will throw you off with the slightest movement, string will always get you within good enough toe specs!!!!
Hi! Can you post a video where you show how you put this together? Are those wing nuts and studs going through the level? Here in the United States alignment shops are worthless most of the time and leave the wheels with little to no tow in, or worse towed out. I use a tape measure and measure of the tires tread, but this is pretty slick invention!
nice diy wheel laser alignment
Thank goodness for this video, thumbs up!
Brilliant. Thanks for sharing this idea.
Excellent video mate ..Much appreciated...Cheers Steve
It is a good start, it would be better to mount the level on the front wheel so that you are measuring only one measurement from the laser beam to the rear wheel. Any small toe in will magnify the measurement. Also just use some small bungee cords to hold the level to the rim. ...so much easier! And if you really want to get accurate aim the laser farther away and measure at that distance.
How do you know that the rear wheels are parallel
where did you get the laser from please ?
Honestly, I don't know why I pay for wheel alignments as most of the guys I've used don't really know what they're doing. Nice little tool and I can see how you use it for toe in but how would you use it for castor?
Nice video, you got me thinking.
one problem I see is that on indipendant suspension cars the rear wheels are towing in so this would throw your calculations for the front out
Great video and idea which keeps your brain thinking!
Should i do wheel alignments with the tyre/wheels off the ground?
Nice idea , however is in fact the laser beam true and exact to the level axis?
All the thumbs down are alignment mechanics.
You can actually also buy a cheap 2 dollar laser and fix it into a wooden closed rectangular. For those who dont want to buy a laser ruler
Curious. What is the brand name of the level and how long is it? Super easy and accurate. Thanks for sharing from British Columbia,Canada.
I would be concerned that if the two points on the back wheel are just the slightest bit off, the farther away you get, the error gets multiplied.
Not trying to be a pain but it looks like you have your level upside down. How would you know if it's level because generally glass levels have a slight arch in the glass and only work correctly when on top.
Good ideal,,but I would once 2,, and do both at the same time to be more exact
Thats the best method so far ,ill buy a laser level .
Bravo...bravo, I just subbed, thanks!
Where did you purchase the laser level? THANKS!!!!
I like this very much, I came to your video as I am about to make something similar. The one thing I wonder is how much variance there is in the ruler not quite being at 90 degrees? That would make a mm or two difference couldn't it? and you are making ajustments at the mm level. Something strapped to the wheel with a track front to back to slide a 'ruler' at exactly 90 is perhaps needed?
Actually just screwing the ruler to a batton at 90 degrees and having that batton front to back , then swapped back to front would be enough to do it. I worry that holding the ruler like in the video could easily give readings that differ by 2 or 3mm due to flex
What are your thoughts on this please?
Yes I realsied afterwards that you could move it until you get the lowest reading :-)
I have bought a laser level to give it a try myself. Such a good idea!
Nothing beats the string, is just as accurate and way cheaper.
Nice innovation
What if rears are toed? This assumes no rear toe.
@@Paulgibbs99 Well some might not be aware of rear toe, all my previous cars had zero rear toe and the track front and rear was the same. Not so with my current car.
Which i found out the hard way wearing a tyre out in 3000 miles.
Make a video on how you made it
Damn good idea!
Thank so much for your great idea video
On Front Wheel Drive cars all four wheels must be aligned...
Next noble price goes to you . Very nice idea, thank you
Thank you for sharing!
Awsome idea😊
Very Nice and Cool Try ! I will make one for myself!
Brilliant idea....
Love the video....👍👍👍
why did he say "LAZER" like Dr. Evil?
Please come to Hollywood and align my Dodge Demon.
The tracking costs nearly more than the tyre. I could buy 2 part worns
His home made wheel alignment machine is .more accurate than those very expense machined where car steerstje same way as a crab side ways
Muy buen video amigo gracias por compartir tu conocimiento. 👋👏👏👍🏼👍🏼
How nice...I like it. Going to make one.
wow so simple ,love it
Nice one 😀👍
Nice one!
That's brilliant!
Good work
Brilliant, big thanks.
I like it!
This Is genius
this assumes your rear wheel is correctly aligned
This method has questionable accuracy.
The method utilised at front cannot be accurate as you cannot confirm the angle that you hold the ruler.
Also i would not use this methid for four wheel tracking as you are assuming the rears are straight.
The principle is nearly there to track front whhels but you require a similar rig on front wheels with an accurate distance from wheel with a gauge to ensure accuracy.