Don't be shy subscribe, like and hit the bell !!! This video shows how to change an ignition coil on a Briggs and Stratton 7.25 HP mower that won't start after it warms up.
I dont know why you people that make these videos dont make them so you can understand what you are saying half the time. if you are going to make a video do it right. Good clear speech and picture or dont do it at all
Remember I am am an older guy in my garage with a video camera and an idea. There is no one but me on the camera or lighting. This is not a Steven Speilberg production. It is an older video (7 years ago) which I have improved doing over the years. Well, whenever I get a comment like this I check to see if the person making the comment has ever made a video. I went to your channel and I was right. You have made not made a video. If you make a video (me knowing how hard it is) i will be respectful and will not hurt your feelings with a distasteful comment. Now I have had 22 million views on my channel with 43,000 subscribers. and after 10 years I still answer every comment. I hope you can see your way to a littlemore kindness.
I read you Lima Charlie. I do believe that you've answered my question . I bought a pawn shop mower that runs fine for about 15 minutes . Once it gets hot it runs like crap . I'm no spring chicken myself yet It only makes sense that it's the coil . I'm no mechanic yet generally speaking if anything mechanical works fine cold and runs rough or stops running when hot it's more than likely electrical . I've changed the plug , air filter and oil . My issue must be the coil . Thank You
I have a Toro recycler that would run and then stop after you would let it set for awhile and reprime it would start and run for a little while.After cleaning the carb still the same problem.Bought new carb and installed,still the same problem.Stumbled across your video and bought and installed coil...problem solved..PRAISE THE LORD... Thank you
Thanks, I have a mower that I believe has the same problem. I appreciate the way you are aware that the watcher might not be able to see what you have done.
Enjoy your videos Bruce , keep them coming too . Use too work on them all the time and you have been giving me a refresher course again . Thanks , never get to old to learn either !
Bruce, the video was helpful. My Snapper mower with a Briggs and Stratton (Model #: 09P702-0055-F1) was experiencing this same issue. First I took it to a dealer/service where they performed a full service, new spark plug cleaned the carb, new gas etc.... When I brought it home it ran for 15 minutes and stalled out and would not restart. I did some research, found your video and proceeded to install a new Electric Coil. It worked, the issue was was fixed. I tested after fix and the mower ran for 45 minutes withing stopping. I stopped and restarted the mower, it started on first pull. Unfortunately, the fix only lasted about two weeks (5 to 6 uses) and then yesterday the same issue started occurring again. I tested it again today to confirm issue. I started mower (from cold start), the mower starts right up. I let engine run until it died on its own, which took 15 minutes. Once it stopped I attempted to restart which was unsuccessful as expected. I pulled the spark plug an attempted to pull start to see if I was getting any spark, from what I could tell (pull starting in dark garage) there was no spark happening. From my understanding, if it was a bad spark plug you would still get some sort of a spark which I did not. Does anyone have any idea what would cause a new electric coil to go bad in 5 or 6 uses?
1. First I would disconnect the kill wire that connects to the coil and try the whole thing again, You can turn the motor off by disconnecting the wire too the plug. There might be a condition coming in on that. It may come from the brake handle or whatever shuts the motor off. That is free to try 2. There could be a bad run of coils from the manufacturer too. 3. A new spark plug would be a $5 check too. ---Do you have a spark indicator. They are less than $10 too.
Today I removed the kill wire, replaced the spark plug and hooked up a spark tester. I then ran the mower. The mower ran for 30 minutes before I shut it down. Tomorrow I will hook the kill wire back up to see if I can re-produce the mower shutdown at 15 minutes. Note... It was colder when I ran my test, not sure if the outside temperature would account for the engine not getting hot enough to have the mower shut down.
Okay, I did some more testing this morning. 1. ran mower with original spark plug and original electric coil and kill wire removed. Mower ran until I stopped it at 30 minutes. Mower also started up on first pull after 30 minute test. 2. ran mower with original spark plug and original electric coil and kill wire attached. Mower ran until I stopped it at 30 minutes. Mower also started up on first pull after 30 minute test. So now I am at a loss of what is causing the issue, as I can not re-produce it now. The one thing that I did do during inspection of the kill wire at the very start was to clean up the dirt that was around the Switch-Stop connection behind the flywheel. Any thoughts?
This had been an issue all summer for us. Ran the mower a bit, by the time needed to empty the first bag, the engine was hot enough that we couldn't get it to start back up again. Checked the usual suspects, engine oil, gas, cleaned carb, air filter, spark plug. I was starting to run out of ideas until I found your video. After watching, I was near 100% sure this was the issue. So I got my part ordered from Amazon, roughly $30 bucks, needed the vane replacement for my particular model too. As I was a good deal into the project, came to realize that the choke thermostat wasn't seated in the vane properly, in fact it was bent and twisted every which way (I'm thinking we caught some tall grass or brush, it caught and bent). So, since I had everything apart anyway, replaced the coil and was able to bend the choke thermostat back into a near original shape. Put it all back together, started up, let it run for 20 minutes or so. Killed it, waited a minute, pulled the cord and started right up. I don't wonder if it was the thermostat the whole time! Thanks again for excellent video!
Nice job Bruce. I don't think the newer motors like the one you have there are as enjoyable to work on as the old ones. Too many safety features and flimsy items nowadays. Good to see it perform better though. Another happy customer.
Excellent video again Thanks Bruce! Coincidentally I have to fix my neighbors exact model Mower today with a slightly different problem starts up then dies after a few seconds and you've taught me how to fix that before.
Hi! I really liked your video thank you 😊 My lawnmower is little bit different but I did the Same Repair like you did dis video. ai manage to start my lawn Mover but the problem didn’t go way. The main issue with my lawnmover is that it Won’t re- start. I have allready bought a new carburetor And the coil …but no…the lawnmover wont work. Today I changed the coil and the engine started SO easily! BUT! The engine sound was little wavy but cause I have also changed the carburetor gasket and diaphragm I decided to adjust juuust a little bit the little metal part that the ”regulator spring ” is attached to. I listened the engine sound and when I thought it was good I left it there. BUT…then it did not re-start …BUT it has had this same problem through this whole repairing journey. If I let the lawn mover stop, it wont re-start. And…yes…I have also put the new spark-plug during this ”journey”. Just to mention…we did overfill the ”oiltank” on the beginning of summer…but I have used and cut the grass with it couple of times despite the overfilling and it did not give any ”white exhaust” from the silencer or nothing like that …the problem has remain the same the whole time…the engine won’t re-start after stopping it. Could you Please help me or give me some advices? My husband is blind so I have to try to fix these things myself. With warm regards, Matleena from Finland
thank you for that excellent video. I have that mower with that problem and my neighbor does too. I think I will fix both. another neighbor said they can't be fixed. Bruce we'll prove him wrong. thanks again
+Bruce Pender thank you Bruce. I'm a retired auto tech but I don't have experience or knowledge that you do on these small engines. My son has some of these on his horse farm that I will be using for parts. I'm like you I'd much prefer to work on something clean. thanks again and have a good evening. I'm a sub too .
Good video. It could also be the gas cap not letting the engine start when hot. The vent hole gets clogged and wont start again until the pressure is released. I try the simple obvious things first. Good stuff man.
Bruce Pender not yet, someone on your comments said it might be a sticking automatic choke. I'm going to take off the cover and check it out. I'll keep you posted thanks
Bruce Pender that did the trick! No longer stalls hot and it now starts hot. It also allowed me to open the air box up a little more which stopped the top end missing problem! Thanks again.
Yes it is the modern fuels. If your problem is that they won't run in the spring make sure they are empy of fuel (run them out) in the fall before storage.
If you don't have a business card, fold a sheet of fax or printer paper to 3 thickness. That will get you between .010 &.014 thousands of a inch which is what is required. Keep up the good work.
Please inform people out there that gasoline, CO, dirty oil, and oily rags, chemical cleaners, motorized blades, even pressure air, should be treated with respect, they can spoil a good repair. Keep up the good work, I plan to watch them all, and show my friends!
Thanks, Mr. Pender, for the kind reply. I've learned a lot in the few of your productions I've seen so far, subscribed and looking forward to watching you work and teach! Best wishes.
I have a riding mower that does the same thing. Once started it will run all day. Until it is turned off. Then it will not start. After it cools down it will start up again. I put a new coil , battery, spark plugs, oil, air filter, gas filter an always New fresh gas. I took the carb. to a shop an had it cleaned an rebuilt. While I was replacing the coil I made sure the fins were clean. This is a Briggs 17 hp Twin. I went as far as to put New blades on.The engine seems to be strong an runs good. Every now an then I do see a small puff of blue smoke. I gave $50 for the mower at a yard sale. And have spent over $200 to get it running.
Well that is a tough one. Could it be one of the safety mechanisms. like the seat switch. I just don't know. I would have said COIL but you did that. If I think of something i will let you know. This is fresh so i will think about it.
A small engine coil that becomes thermally intermittent can be one of the most frustrating problems to diagnose, because everything else you try takes time; meanwhile, your coil is cooling off, which means it'll work just fine when you try your most recent 'fix'. Even a few minutes can be enough time for that unit to cool back to its 'operational' range, so it'll seem like your 'fix' did the trick. For a while. If you have the basics covered and you still have a heat-related problem, a known-good coil (ignition unit, if you're fussy) can save boatloads of frustration.
Good video lighting and shots. I presume the mower had been cleaned prior to your presentation unless this mower was used only to cut Astroturf. Your creativity on adapting another coil to work is appreciated. Any thoughts on measuring the output, induction or resistance of the coil as a fault finder? The ignition coil in my JD walk behind with a 14 hp Kawasaki engine failed around 900 hrs of use and had the failure scenario you paint- Starts easily when cold, but does not start at all when hot..
OK the coils are different. Remember the electronics are in the coil now to replace the points. One side to ground is low 200 Ohms? the other side (a step up transformer) to the high voltage lead to the same ground will be in the thousands of ohms 2500 to 10,000. The measurement will change when it is hot. I would just change the coil as you can't check it in the midpoint. it is a small $$$ risk.
Always best to check the simple things first. I have a Honda GCV190 engine that had similar problems. Started okay, then died while using when it warmed up. Ignition problem for sure. Turned out to be an NGK spark plug that went rogue. Never had that happen before. It's easier to first change out the spark plug and test with a new one to see if the same condition exists before peeking under the hood. If it does, then you know it's the coil. If you use a spark plug tester in line with a bad plug you still will not know whether it's the plug or the coil.
That is what has been happening to my lawnmower. Start it cuts grass,stop for a min,then really hard to start. Might have to get a coil and try it...Thanks
I have a Craftsman mower with a Briggs and Stratton 7.25 HP. I replaced the ignition coil, following your instructions to the letter. Still having the same issue. Any suggestions?
I have a Ryobi pressure washer with a Honda "easy start" (auto choke) engine. It will start and run great for about 15 minutes. Then it dies and won't restart for about 45 minutes (till the engine cools down). Then it starts fine , runs about 15 minutes and dies. I've checked that the gas cap is venting, the carb is clean, and the coil is firing nicely even while hot, got a new spark plugs and in it and fresh oil. Any ideas?
Yes you can. But the modern coils also have electronics in them causing erroneous readings. The old points coils can be measured more accurately. . So from the high tension lead to the wire connector it should be something in the range of 10,000 OHMS Then from the wire the lead to ground it should be in the single ohms range.
Here's one. I had (3) mowers dropped off this weekend and they all have B&S 550 ex engines. I promise this is not a riddle. Anyway, I cleaned all the carbs and two work fine, but the last one will not pull start. Adding carb cleaner, fires it right up, but it runs slow and labored, with a small backfire now and again. I checked the flywheel key, it's ok. I checked the coil distance, its ok. Then I notice a little oil in the filter and and wondered if it was laid on it's side. What should I try and do?
Did you take the seat out of the carb and put a new one ?? Could be the valves too What is the model and type code ? It could be a head gasket IF you have OHV on that model. Hope this helps ~!~!
I've got one for ya.... 2007 gravely zt 1740 with a Kohler wouldn't start. For kicks I went ahead and installed a new solenoid, new battery, new spark plug, new ignition switch, pto switch, relay and all new fuel lines. Tested all fuses and they were good. I can get it started by putting 12 volts to the small wires on the solenoid and it runs fine. I cannot start it using the key but the lights still work great...lol I've narrowed it down I suppose to just not getting 12 volts to the small wire on the solenoid. Any thoughts?
After RnR the coil, you didn't let the mower run for an extended time to test if it stalled or not before delivering it to the owner. So the problem, tho likely the coil, might not have been. Correct?
thanks for a great video. I have a craftsman lawn tractor with a 1 ciloynder Intek engine that runs about 30 minutes and then won't start after a shut down to empty bagger. Is this common with those engines and is there a way to test the coil with a meter?
I don't think so as they test good when they are cool. One thing you cab do is get a spark tester. (the ones that go in series wit the wire and spark plug) and you can see if the spark goes away when hot. The are cheap an easy to find
I got a Honda mower that runs great but struggle to restart when engine is hot. After multiple pulls I think I flooded the engine. So I wait 20 min and it start right up on choke .. do you think it a bad coil ?
I have had it where the gas cap was the problem also. The vent on the cap would not gravity pull air though the tank so gas could flow properly. So in 5 min of running the gas would not flow anymore.
Bruce, two questions sir, that little lift that you use, and it rolls around too, where can I get one. Also the little deal you used to check spark, I need one of those as well. Thanks man, great vid
the spark indicator is easily available just google. Here is the link on the lift ------------------------------ th-cam.com/video/yv7FtFWRHaUa/w-d-xo.html video
I am working on a old BS 4 hp. The coil was bad took it off and carried the shroud and coil down to the dealer. The dealer sold me a brand new one $45. It was bad. I carried it back. He sold me another one. The holes did not match up, I spent 3 hrs on the phone with Briggs trying to find a coil that would work.. I talked to several people and got the run around. Then they sent me a PDF file that did not help. So I loaded up the mower and took it down to the dealer. He went back to the first one he sold me and seen for himself it was no good. Then sold me the third one that worked. I spent all day running around for parts. I tried using old parts like that a few times seems most of time it came back to bite me. I really like your lift, where do you get it ?
That's not a bad price I might consider that. After I passed 50 things seem to start to weigh more. Gettin old suxs. I remember a time when I would have never even considered something like this.
So how about a riding mower that dies after about 10-12 minutes - sooner, if I try to mow or go up a hill. I have determined it happens after the engine warms up.
A coil is a good start. First of all is the fuel new and full. Have a look at the spark plug it should be wet of the spark is going away. If it isn't getting enough fuel it will have a white end.
I will check the plug the next time I start it. I have replaced and rebuilt everything last year. Spent all summer working on it. I has new filter, spark plug and fuel line, solenoid, I rebuilt the starter, replaced all the mower deck stuff and belts. I am so indebted to the crazy thing, I can't quit now. It's 19 years old and doesn't owe me a thing, but I really hate the new mowers. It's a Yard Man with a Craftsman flathead in it. Thank you for your getting back with me.
Check and make sure the fuel tank cap is not forming a vacuum in the fuel tank as the machine consumes fuel it will stave the machine of fuel if this happens ,, after it stalls open the fuel cap if it restarts fine right after,, the fuel cap vent is plugged , again if you check the plug and its wet with fuel its not a fuel delivery issue.
Hey Bruce I got a question for you my lawnmower makes a clicking sound from the motor when I turn off the mower I don't think it's heating up tho but I might be wrong
I really can't say. It may be the magnet in the flywheel attracting a piece of metal. I would take the shroud off and have a look. There are tabs on the shroud that should tuck into each other,
Bruce, I have a old snapper comet rear engine tractor I rebuilt 2 years ago has points add new coil condenser.. ran great till this season mows half the yard then and runs rough and dies ..could this coil all ready? I have had a golf cart quit when hot and change the plug and all good now...ill try that tomorrow... what you think? I want to save these old machines! Art Bender
Just started having issues with my 4 hp briggs in my tiller. It runs for 15 mins then just stalls, no sputter, just quits. I need to get my garden tilled. It also doesn't want to strt until its cooled 20 mins.
Im having the same issue with my toro 14-38 (14.5hp briggs). It'll run for about 20 mins every time I go out to mow and then shut down. Have to wait about 5 mins to start back up and then it'll die again 5-10 mins later.
What about if it just stops when it should be running? I did not let go of the stop lever, and it will not start back up for at least an hour or so, have to prime it again.
No, I did not. Besides, I do not know how to change the coil. However, my uncle repaired it last year, and the mower is going faster than normal. It could be that since it is going faster, maybe it is overheating?
Make sure it's not putting too much stress on engine by testing the RPM with a tachometer. You may need to set the governor correctly if it was set too run too fast.
happycat After Bruce replaced the coil he showed how to check for spark using a spark tester. That's what you need to test the coil. Not very expensive but extremely handy.
Ok I thought you said at first a light meter. I measure from (With the leads disconnected) ground to the shut off wire (thin) That should be low resistance like 4 ohms and then to the thick plug wire to ground and that should be in the thousands of OHM's, It is a step up transformer with a bit of electronics packed in on the new ones. .
I am having a similar issue with my B&S engine. It runs for 5 min then stops, will not restart until cool. I checked for spark, right after it died, while still very hot. It still had good spark. So does that point me towards the auto-choke?
Thanks BRuce. Last night I disabled the autochock and I checked the jet for debris again. Still stalls after 5 minutes. Coil overheating? I'm stumped, even ready to go buy a new mower!
Hey Bruce, I am having the same issue where my Briggs and Stratton Craftman 725 mower will not start when hot. I have to let it sit for a half hour then it will start. I wanted to see if you had any suggestions. I replaced ignition coil with a brand new one and I am still having the same issue that it won't start when hot. Any suggestions?
ok after further diagnosing it looks to actually be the Auto Choke. when it was hot took of the plastic cover and the choke lost it spring back action after cooling down it will spring back and forth.
I have a toro 7hp self-paced lawnmower 2011. Replaced carb.. no luck, replaced coil.. no luck... checked valve intake side no clearance.. ground off bottom of valve .006 clearance. .. Now it works like a champ! (THIS WAS A VERY FRUSTRATING PROBLEM)
The same exact lawn mower I have spits and sputters when it's hot and only when it's hot was thinking it could be the governor spring because it's old but now I'm thinking differently
The bypass to what? I have a lawnmower with the same style engine that can be hard to restart if I don't prime it and it surges a little bit. What would the problem be? What should I do?
Great vids! Got any tips on buying a riding mower? My neighbor is getting up there in age and thinking about getting a riding mower. Are the $999.00 ones any good?
I have a honda gcv 160 it runs great till it gets warmed up then starts sputtering eventually stalling I think the coil is getting hot is there something else I'm missing any insight would be appreciated
It sound like a coil the only problem is if you don't have access to a used one you have to take a chance and buy one before you are sure about the issue. The age old problem
yeah same happened to me took to shop they worked on carburettor so it wasn't fixed so I bought new coil problem fixed oh by the the way this had been happening for 1 year incredible
I miss the days when the mowers had an actual throttle. I solve the instant off (idiot bar) problem with a cheap spring clamp that I attach to the handle. Nothing is worse than having to restart the mower every time you let go of the handle.
I used to cut 4 lawns on my block and had to fill the very small tank 3X. Problem is after turning off motor it took 20 pulls to restart it. Problem solved- I filled it up with gas with motor running making a mess. I was told it's the Magneto that got hot.. All a magneto is is a light strip of Copper ( right?(. I suspected Vapor Lock or the simple reason it's only a homeowners lawnmower not meant to run 3- 4 hours. Anybody out there able to share their comments????
Well a coil (magneto as you call it) is a step up transformer taking the low voltage generated buy the magnet in the coil the the now points replaced modern coil to create 20,000 volts for the sparks plug. They should run as long as needed. Sorry to jump back in.
I,ve had quite a few briggs with auto choke come in my shop with the problem you have, and its not always the coil that is bad, on quite a few it turns out the auto choke gets bound up with junk, and needs to be cleaned out, see if the auto choke doesn't move freely it will heat up and choke off the air and kill the engine, a simple trick is to hit the mechanism with compressed air and make sure it moves freely, if blowing it out doesn't work you have to replace the auto choke, cause you cant grease it cause it heats up, just a friendly share of things that also can be the problem , great video btw.
Agree with both assessments and good diagnosis Bruce on this one. One more thing and this happened to me on my rider with 15.5 briggs is when it got hot it wouldn't start back because of dirty air filter,,, and yes Bruce mentioned checking them at the beginning of video. Hot engines need more air flow. Very nice video !
I worked on a B&S engine on a push mower that did the same thing. I put a different coil on it, and it did not fix the problem. Got to looking a little closer, and found that the kill wire had an abrasion on the plastic outer cover and would ground out against metal, stopping the engine occasionally. Put new kill wire on it, never did it again.
Recently had the not restart when hot problem on our Husqvarna 21 inch push mower with a Briggs 725 EXI OHV mower. Did the coil replacement, tore down and cleaned the and eventually replaced the carb, problem did not go away. Finally as a last resort tried temporarily disconnected the crankcase oil breather hose from the air cleaner inlet. Problem instantly corrected, mower now reliably starts when hot as long as the breather hose is not dumping oil fumes into the carb inlet. It appears that the hot oil fumes are messing up the air fuel mixture so ignition doesn’t happen when trying to start a hot engine. I’ve been making this comment on various no hot start lawn mower videos because I’ve never seen anyone else identify the oil breather fumes as a cause for a hot starting problems. The mower here is starting to burn oil and smokes a bit whenever it starts, I suspect it’s going to need its piston rings replaced (or be replaced by a new engine which might be more cost effective). Not really happy about that, only have used the mower for 3 seasons, and I’ve always been good about changing the oil and air filters. Someone commented that maybe pulling the breather hose off was allowing more air to get to the carb with a clogged air filter. That was not the case. Mower wouldn’t hot start even with the air filter removed. It’s apparently all about oil fume effects on the air fuel mixture.
Internally shorted cap did that to me, only when it got hot. Also, on a international tractor 10 hp, the vent hole on the valve spring cover breathes on the carb float bowel, causing vapor lock on very hot conditions.
First mow of 4th season, mower fires on first pull and works perfect for that day. Next cut 2 weeks later, starts again, but when emptying bag after 5 min, it won’t start. Starts fine 30 min later. Engine has to be 100% mechanically sound - I researched and found this video. Replaced the armature, and it’s back to a first pull start - after 4 years! This video was my main reference. Thanks for the description.
I dont know why you people that make these videos dont make them so you can understand what you are saying half the time. if you are going to make a video do it right. Good clear speech and picture or dont do it at all
Remember I am am an older guy in my garage with a video camera and an idea. There is no one but me on the camera or lighting. This is not a Steven Speilberg production. It is an older video (7 years ago) which I have improved doing over the years. Well, whenever I get a comment like this I check to see if the person making the comment has ever made a video. I went to your channel and I was right. You have made not made a video. If you make a video (me knowing how hard it is) i will be respectful and will not hurt your feelings with a distasteful comment. Now I have had 22 million views on my channel with 43,000 subscribers. and after 10 years I still answer every comment. I hope you can see your way to a littlemore kindness.
@@BrucesShop I can understand you perfect. It helped me with mine.God bless you and you family
I understood everything you said and showed. Thank you.
I read you Lima Charlie. I do believe that you've answered my question .
I bought a pawn shop mower that runs fine for about 15 minutes . Once it gets hot it runs like crap .
I'm no spring chicken myself yet It only makes sense that it's the coil .
I'm no mechanic yet generally speaking if anything mechanical works fine cold and runs rough or stops running when hot it's more than likely electrical .
I've changed the plug , air filter and oil . My issue must be the coil .
Thank You
Most people were able to follow his instructions. Have you tried washing wax out of your ears?
You are easy to learn from. And your choice of when to fast forward is impeccable ! Well done Sr.
Thanks Some people don't agree with you on the fast forward thing.
I have a Toro recycler that would run and then stop after you would let it set for awhile and reprime it would start and run for a little while.After cleaning the carb still the same problem.Bought new carb and installed,still the same problem.Stumbled across your video and bought and installed coil...problem solved..PRAISE THE LORD... Thank you
You are so welcome. Remember you fixed it I just helped.
Had same issue. After cleaning the carb a half dozen times, purchased new carb... same problem so ordered new coil today... thanks
Good luck David
David Zemke
Check that fuel cap too.
If your cap is clogged it won't allow fuel to drain down into your carburetor, stopping the engine.
Bulba64 toro is crap
Thanks, I have a mower that I believe has the same problem. I appreciate the way you are aware that the watcher might not be able to see what you have done.
Enjoy your videos Bruce , keep them coming too . Use too work on them all the time and you have been giving me a refresher course again . Thanks , never get to old to learn either !
Thanks for watching Marshall
Marshall Border
Bruce, the video was helpful. My Snapper mower with a Briggs and Stratton (Model #: 09P702-0055-F1) was experiencing this same issue. First I took it to a dealer/service where they performed a full service, new spark plug cleaned the carb, new gas etc.... When I brought it home it ran for 15 minutes and stalled out and would not restart. I did some research, found your video and proceeded to install a new Electric Coil. It worked, the issue was was fixed. I tested after fix and the mower ran for 45 minutes withing stopping. I stopped and restarted the mower, it started on first pull. Unfortunately, the fix only lasted about two weeks (5 to 6 uses) and then yesterday the same issue started occurring again. I tested it again today to confirm issue. I started mower (from cold start), the mower starts right up. I let engine run until it died on its own, which took 15 minutes. Once it stopped I attempted to restart which was unsuccessful as expected. I pulled the spark plug an attempted to pull start to see if I was getting any spark, from what I could tell (pull starting in dark garage) there was no spark happening. From my understanding, if it was a bad spark plug you would still get some sort of a spark which I did not. Does anyone have any idea what would cause a new electric coil to go bad in 5 or 6 uses?
1. First I would disconnect the kill wire that connects to the coil and try the whole thing again, You can turn the motor off by disconnecting the wire too the plug. There might be a condition coming in on that. It may come from the brake handle or whatever shuts the motor off. That is free to try
2. There could be a bad run of coils from the manufacturer too.
3. A new spark plug would be a $5 check too. ---Do you have a spark indicator. They are less than $10 too.
Today I removed the kill wire, replaced the spark plug and hooked up a spark tester. I then ran the mower. The mower ran for 30 minutes before I shut it down. Tomorrow I will hook the kill wire back up to see if I can re-produce the mower shutdown at 15 minutes. Note... It was colder when I ran my test, not sure if the outside temperature would account for the engine not getting hot enough to have the mower shut down.
Okay, I did some more testing this morning.
1. ran mower with original spark plug and original electric coil and kill wire removed. Mower ran until I stopped it at 30 minutes. Mower also started up on first pull after 30 minute test.
2. ran mower with original spark plug and original electric coil and kill wire attached. Mower ran until I stopped it at 30 minutes. Mower also started up on first pull after 30 minute test.
So now I am at a loss of what is causing the issue, as I can not re-produce it now. The one thing that I did do during inspection of the kill wire at the very start was to clean up the dirt that was around the Switch-Stop connection behind the flywheel. Any thoughts?
Bruce you are the best teacher! Thanks for all your video.
You are very welcome
This resolved a problem I was having with a customers mower. I had an exact duplicate of his coil. Replaced it and it worked great. Thanks
Glad it helped
Hi Bruce I just wanted to say your videos are so helpful
The
This had been an issue all summer for us. Ran the mower a bit, by the time needed to empty the
first bag, the engine was hot enough that we couldn't get it to start
back up again. Checked the usual suspects, engine oil, gas, cleaned
carb, air filter, spark plug. I was starting to run out of ideas until I
found your video. After watching, I was near 100% sure this was the
issue. So I got my part ordered from Amazon, roughly $30 bucks, needed
the vane replacement for my particular model too. As I was a good deal
into the project, came to realize that the choke thermostat wasn't
seated in the vane properly, in fact it was bent and twisted every which
way (I'm thinking we caught some tall grass or brush, it caught and
bent). So, since I had everything apart anyway, replaced the coil and
was able to bend the choke thermostat back into a near original shape.
Put it all back together, started up, let it run for 20 minutes or so.
Killed it, waited a minute, pulled the cord and started right up. I
don't wonder if it was the thermostat the whole time! Thanks again for
excellent video!
Yes they are flimsy eh!!!
Nice job Bruce.
I don't think the newer motors like the one you have there are as enjoyable to work on as the old ones. Too many safety features and flimsy items nowadays.
Good to see it perform better though. Another happy customer.
W.Co.VIDS Yes the choke runs off the windage vane. Weird. Then a bimetal coil opens it when hot
I have a 7HP Intek OHV with the same issue so thanks Bruce for laying the coil process out. By the way, Frank was looking really good in 2015!!
Thanks Justin He is 23 years old now.
There will be a video next week for his 23rd birthday.
Excellent video again Thanks Bruce! Coincidentally I have to fix my neighbors exact model Mower today with a slightly different problem starts up then dies after a few seconds and you've taught me how to fix that before.
Glad to have helped
Hi!
I really liked your video thank you 😊
My lawnmower is little bit different but I did the Same Repair like you did dis video. ai manage to start my lawn Mover but the problem didn’t go way. The main issue with my lawnmover is that it Won’t re- start. I have allready bought a new carburetor And the coil …but no…the lawnmover wont work.
Today I changed the coil and the engine started SO easily! BUT! The engine sound was little wavy but cause I have also changed the carburetor gasket and diaphragm I decided to adjust juuust a little bit the little metal part that the ”regulator spring ” is attached to. I listened the engine sound and when I thought it was good I left it there. BUT…then it did not re-start …BUT it has had this same problem through this whole repairing journey. If I let the lawn mover stop, it wont re-start. And…yes…I have also put the new spark-plug during this ”journey”.
Just to mention…we did overfill the ”oiltank” on the beginning of summer…but I have used and cut the grass with it couple of times despite the overfilling and it did not give any ”white exhaust” from the silencer or nothing like that …the problem has remain the same the whole time…the engine won’t re-start after stopping it.
Could you Please help me or give me some advices?
My husband is blind so I have to try to fix these things myself.
With warm regards,
Matleena from Finland
Well first you have to keep the oil at the full mark on the dipstick.
Thankyou for that informative video Bruce
You are welcome.
Great video!!!! You would make a good teacher your very thorough.
Thanks Robert
thank you for that excellent video. I have that mower with that problem and my neighbor does too. I think I will fix both. another neighbor said they can't be fixed. Bruce we'll prove him wrong. thanks again
Get 1 good coil and move it to the different machines to save some troubleshooting money.
+Bruce Pender thank you Bruce. I'm a retired auto tech but I don't have experience or knowledge that you do on these small engines. My son has some of these on his horse farm that I will be using for parts. I'm like you I'd much prefer to work on something clean. thanks again and have a good evening. I'm a sub too .
Thanks RC
@@rcrobertson9563 7
Good video. It could also be the gas cap not letting the engine start when hot. The vent hole gets clogged and wont start again until the pressure is released. I try the simple obvious things first. Good stuff man.
Yes it is good to try all the simple things. Sometimes I get caught up in something technical and the plug wire is off LOL
Thanks this is so helpful my push mower kept catching fire this helps thankyou:)
Great.
sometimes the the coil ends get rusty and cause a problem starting.when hot. A lite sanding of the ends usually works.
great job, I was thinking my carb was flooding itself when I let go the handle bar. this makes more sense
Did you get the problem?
Bruce Pender not yet, someone on your comments said it might be a sticking automatic choke. I'm going to take off the cover and check it out. I'll keep you posted
thanks
That was very informative. Will keep that in mind if I come across this issue. Thank you so much for sharing.....
I'm pretty sure this is the problem with my 2-stroke moped. Looking forward to giving it a try, thanks for the lead!
Did it work?
Bruce Pender that did the trick! No longer stalls hot and it now starts hot. It also allowed me to open the air box up a little more which stopped the top end missing problem! Thanks again.
I’ve gone through 3 mowers in the last 5 years. I’m contemplating just to quit cutting my grass and let native plants take over
Yes it is the modern fuels. If your problem is that they won't run in the spring make sure they are empy of fuel (run them out) in the fall before storage.
If you don't have a business card, fold a sheet of fax or printer paper to 3 thickness. That will get you between .010 &.014 thousands of a inch which is what is required. Keep up the good work.
+Myrle and Kaye Dietzenbach Thanks
Nice work, Mr. Pender, the mechanical and video work well done and informative. Thanks for sharing your experience!
No thanks to you!!!
Please inform people out there that gasoline, CO, dirty oil, and oily rags, chemical cleaners, motorized blades, even pressure air, should be treated with respect, they can spoil a good repair. Keep up the good work, I plan to watch them all, and show my friends!
I do. Dirty rags and lots of other things can ruin your life.
Thanks, Mr. Pender, for the kind reply. I've learned a lot in the few of your productions I've seen so far, subscribed and looking forward to watching you work and teach! Best wishes.
Thank you for sharing your tips. Its really excellent !!!
No thank you!!! for watching
I have a riding mower that does the same thing. Once started it will run all day. Until it is turned off. Then it will not start. After it cools down it will start up again. I put a new coil , battery, spark plugs, oil, air filter, gas filter an always New fresh gas. I took the carb. to a shop an had it cleaned an rebuilt. While I was replacing the coil I made sure the fins were clean. This is a Briggs 17 hp Twin. I went as far as to put New blades on.The engine seems to be strong an runs good. Every now an then I do see a small puff of blue smoke. I gave $50 for the mower at a yard sale. And have spent over $200 to get it running.
Well that is a tough one. Could it be one of the safety mechanisms. like the seat switch. I just don't know. I would have said COIL but you did that. If I think of something i will let you know. This is fresh so i will think about it.
i have been trying to find one of these mowers but everyone seems to be sold out I have the red one with a 6.75 Briggs engine and I love it
They are OK the ones with the prime bulbs are better in my mind
Nice coil horde you've amassed.
John Strange Yes thanks a handy bag of precious things.Bruce
A small engine coil that becomes thermally intermittent can be one of the most frustrating problems to diagnose, because everything else you try takes time; meanwhile, your coil is cooling off, which means it'll work just fine when you try your most recent 'fix'. Even a few minutes can be enough time for that unit to cool back to its 'operational' range, so it'll seem like your 'fix' did the trick. For a while. If you have the basics covered and you still have a heat-related problem, a known-good coil (ignition unit, if you're fussy) can save boatloads of frustration.
Yes I keep a few of each type around here for that exact purpose. Thanks for the great comment.
Good video lighting and shots. I presume the mower had been cleaned prior to your presentation unless this mower was used only to cut Astroturf.
Your creativity on adapting another coil to work is appreciated.
Any thoughts on measuring the output, induction or resistance of the coil as a fault finder?
The ignition coil in my JD walk behind with a 14 hp Kawasaki engine failed around 900 hrs of use and had the failure scenario you paint- Starts easily when cold, but does not start at all when hot..
OK the coils are different. Remember the electronics are in the coil now to replace the points. One side to ground is low 200 Ohms? the other side (a step up transformer) to the high voltage lead to the same ground will be in the thousands of ohms 2500 to 10,000. The measurement will change when it is hot. I would just change the coil as you can't check it in the midpoint. it is a small $$$ risk.
Always best to check the simple things first. I have a Honda GCV190 engine that had similar problems. Started okay, then died while using when it warmed up. Ignition problem for sure. Turned out to be an NGK spark plug that went rogue. Never had that happen before. It's easier to first change out the spark plug and test with a new one to see if the same condition exists before peeking under the hood. If it does, then you know it's the coil. If you use a spark plug tester in line with a bad plug you still will not know whether it's the plug or the coil.
Correct. A neon plug tester is only good for an indicator. An actual plug with a cable to ground is better.
That is what has been happening to my lawnmower. Start it cuts grass,stop for a min,then really hard to start. Might have to get a coil and try it...Thanks
tertessa can you get a used one?
Bruce Pender I will check around..thanks
Just curios, when you use a used part like you did, do you charge new part price or how do you determine the price?
If I charge I charge about 1/4 of the retail. i am weak.
Thanks for all your info same problem I had..
Cool
I have a Craftsman mower with a Briggs and Stratton 7.25 HP. I replaced the ignition coil, following your instructions to the letter. Still having the same issue. Any suggestions?
I will think about it. If i think of something i will get back to you. As I am not there it is really tough to diagnose most anything.
Have the same problem with the same lawn mower. Replaced the coil. Still won't restart when hot.
These ones with the autochoke can be flaky too.
Good ol Briggs n crappin
They are OK LOL
I have a Ryobi pressure washer with a Honda "easy start" (auto choke) engine. It will start and run great for about 15 minutes. Then it dies and won't restart for about 45 minutes (till the engine cools down). Then it starts fine , runs about 15 minutes and dies. I've checked that the gas cap is venting, the carb is clean, and the coil is firing nicely even while hot, got a new spark plugs and in it and fresh oil. Any ideas?
Have you tried disconnecting the oil level wire? Just to see.
Is there not a way to test the old coil with ohm meter or something?
Yes you can. But the modern coils also have electronics in them causing erroneous readings. The old points coils can be measured more accurately. . So from the high tension lead to the wire connector it should be something in the range of 10,000 OHMS Then from the wire the lead to ground it should be in the single ohms range.
Here's one. I had (3) mowers dropped off this weekend and they all have B&S 550 ex engines. I promise this is not a riddle.
Anyway, I cleaned all the carbs and two work fine, but the last one will not pull start. Adding carb cleaner, fires it right up, but it runs slow and labored, with a small backfire now and again. I checked the flywheel key, it's ok. I checked the coil distance, its ok. Then I notice a little oil in the filter and and wondered if it was laid on it's side. What should I try and do?
Did you take the seat out of the carb and put a new one ??
Could be the valves too What is the model and type code ?
It could be a head gasket IF you have OHV on that model. Hope this helps ~!~!
I've got one for ya....
2007 gravely zt 1740 with a Kohler wouldn't start.
For kicks I went ahead and installed a new solenoid, new battery, new spark plug, new ignition switch, pto switch, relay and all new fuel lines. Tested all fuses and they were good.
I can get it started by putting 12 volts to the small wires on the solenoid and it runs fine.
I cannot start it using the key but the lights still work great...lol
I've narrowed it down I suppose to just not getting 12 volts to the small wire on the solenoid. Any thoughts?
Yes a new key switch The ignition switches can be different even if they look the same. Or the wire from the switch check first.
@@BrucesShop thank you. I will do that.
I wonder could this be my problem when I 1st try to crank mine it take 5 to 6 pulls to crank 🤔 it???
Do you have a spark detector.
After RnR the coil, you didn't let the mower run for an extended time to test if it stalled or not before delivering it to the owner. So the problem, tho likely the coil, might not have been. Correct?
At the end of the video I ran it for a long time. This video is 4 years old and she id still using it. at 12:30
thanks for a great video. I have a craftsman lawn tractor with a 1 ciloynder Intek engine that runs about 30 minutes and then won't start after a shut down to empty bagger. Is this common with those engines and is there a way to test the coil with a meter?
I don't think so as they test good when they are cool. One thing you cab do is get a spark tester. (the ones that go in series wit the wire and spark plug) and you can see if the spark goes away when hot. The are cheap an easy to find
I got a Honda mower that runs great but struggle to restart when engine is hot. After multiple pulls I think I flooded the engine. So I wait 20 min and it start right up on choke .. do you think it a bad coil ?
I would try that.
I have had it where the gas cap was the problem also. The vent on the cap would not gravity pull air though the tank so gas could flow properly. So in 5 min of running the gas would not flow anymore.
I describe that as---like your finger on the top of a straw full of water.
That is a neat hoists. Where can I buy one from?Awesome video thanks for sharing.
I hope a video works for you. check out the comments
th-cam.com/video/yv7FtFWRHaU/w-d-xo.html
Perfect! Another happy customer! Those are the best. Zip~
ZippoVarga You are right, An old co-worker widow lady
Good video Bruce another one fixed..
Rich W Thanks rich
Thanks for the good information!
You are welcome
Thank you on the video it help me out a lot
Thanks for the nice comment.
Bruce, two questions sir, that little lift that you use, and it rolls around too, where can I get one. Also the little deal you used to check spark, I need one of those as well. Thanks man, great vid
the spark indicator is easily available just google. Here is the link on the lift ------------------------------
th-cam.com/video/yv7FtFWRHaUa/w-d-xo.html video
New coil will fit. sometimes air vane gov. gets covered in funk, messes up linkage.
Thanks
I am working on a old BS 4 hp. The coil was bad took it off and carried the shroud and coil down to the dealer. The dealer sold me a brand new one $45. It was bad. I carried it back. He sold me another one. The holes did not match up, I spent 3 hrs on the phone with Briggs trying to find a coil that would work.. I talked to several people and got the run around. Then they sent me a PDF file that did not help. So I loaded up the mower and took it down to the dealer. He went back to the first one he sold me and seen for himself it was no good. Then sold me the third one that worked. I spent all day running around for parts. I tried using old parts like that a few times seems most of time it came back to bite me.
I really like your lift, where do you get it ?
+William Wynn A store called Princess Auto. Here is the video of the link it you want to watch it. th-cam.com/video/yv7FtFWRHaU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the heads up. But $369 plus shipping is a lot money, it is nice. For that kind of money I think I can make something.
+William Wynn My wife bought it for me for about $180 a few years ago
That's not a bad price I might consider that.
After I passed 50 things seem to start to weigh more. Gettin old suxs. I remember a time when I would have never even considered something like this.
Bruce how many times a day do you open and close your overhead doors?
about 3 when I am out there (or when I am running a machine for a few minutes). Can I ask why ? (yes I loose heat when I do it.
So how about a riding mower that dies after about 10-12 minutes - sooner, if I try to mow or go up a hill. I have determined it happens after the engine warms up.
A coil is a good start. First of all is the fuel new and full. Have a look at the spark plug it should be wet of the spark is going away. If it isn't getting enough fuel it will have a white end.
I will check the plug the next time I start it. I have replaced and rebuilt everything last year. Spent all summer working on it. I has new filter, spark plug and fuel line, solenoid, I rebuilt the starter, replaced all the mower deck stuff and belts. I am so indebted to the crazy thing, I can't quit now. It's 19 years old and doesn't owe me a thing, but I really hate the new mowers. It's a Yard Man with a Craftsman flathead in it. Thank you for your getting back with me.
Check and make sure the fuel tank cap is not forming a vacuum in the fuel tank as the machine consumes fuel it will stave the machine of fuel if this happens ,, after it stalls open the fuel cap if it restarts fine right after,, the fuel cap vent is plugged , again if you check the plug and its wet with fuel its not a fuel delivery issue.
Hey Bruce I got a question for you my lawnmower makes a clicking sound from the motor when I turn off the mower I don't think it's heating up tho but I might be wrong
I really can't say. It may be the magnet in the flywheel attracting a piece of metal. I would take the shroud off and have a look. There are tabs on the shroud that should tuck into each other,
@@BrucesShop it does seem as if someone just recently painted the motor do you think that might be the reason it clicks?
@@BrucesShop I turn on the lawnmower and then turn it off the ticking sound is coming from the muffler what could it be?
Bruce, I have a old snapper comet rear engine tractor I rebuilt 2 years ago has points add new coil condenser.. ran great till this season mows half the yard then and runs rough and dies ..could this coil all ready? I have had a golf cart quit when hot and change the plug and all good now...ill try that tomorrow... what you think? I want to save these old machines! Art Bender
Well a coil is suspect. Can you find one?
it was water in the gas. drained tank and bowl runs fine now! back on the old snapper rider. no dirty green shoes!
Great saved some $$$$$
you the man Bruce
Thanks Deek
Just started having issues with my 4 hp briggs in my tiller. It runs for 15 mins then just stalls, no sputter, just quits. I need to get my garden tilled. It also doesn't want to strt until its cooled 20 mins.
I would try a new coil--- some get hot and quit.
Im having the same issue with my toro 14-38 (14.5hp briggs). It'll run for about 20 mins every time I go out to mow and then shut down. Have to wait about 5 mins to start back up and then it'll die again 5-10 mins later.
Did you ever work on one that vapor lock after it got hot ?
blueticecho I usually just leave them sit for a bit. It is rare here in Canada for things to get that hot.
good video Bruceter
Well thank you Mr. Sledge. :-)
What about if it just stops when it should be running? I did not let go of the stop lever, and it will not start back up for at least an hour or so, have to prime it again.
Did you change the coil? I ask as the coil cools off then works for a bit. The metal in the coil expands when hot and goes eclectically open
No, I did not. Besides, I do not know how to change the coil. However, my uncle repaired it last year, and the mower is going faster than normal. It could be that since it is going faster, maybe it is overheating?
Make sure it's not putting too much stress on engine by testing the RPM with a tachometer. You may need to set the governor correctly if it was set too run too fast.
You are right but it is a small amount of time.
My uncle replaced the coil, so hopefully it will stay running.
You are the MAN👌
Thanks so much
Bruce you have a video on testing a coil with a multi-meter?
no I don't
Thanks for the reply Bruce.Learned about popping the ground wire out from your great video.Thanks Bruce
happycat After Bruce replaced the coil he showed how to check for spark using a spark tester. That's what you need to test the coil. Not very expensive but extremely handy.
I have tried the spark plug tester, I ask Bruce how to check a coil with a multi-meter.
Ok I thought you said at first a light meter. I measure from (With the leads disconnected) ground to the shut off wire (thin) That should be low resistance like 4 ohms and then to the thick plug wire to ground and that should be in the thousands of OHM's, It is a step up transformer with a bit of electronics packed in on the new ones. .
I am having a similar issue with my B&S engine. It runs for 5 min then stops, will not restart until cool. I checked for spark, right after it died, while still very hot. It still had good spark. So does that point me towards the auto-choke?
Yes the autochoke is flimsy. You can see a bit of it at 8:10 It can even get caught on the wire from the coil.
Thanks BRuce. Last night I disabled the autochock and I checked the jet for debris again. Still stalls after 5 minutes. Coil overheating? I'm stumped, even ready to go buy a new mower!
Try a coil. Can you go to a repair depot and see if you can get a used one to try. $$$
Bruce Pender Thanks Bruce!
What kind of camera are you using?
I use an Olympus Tough. TG-850. I like it as is truly tough and I can knock it over many times and it survives.
bruce did you buy your host at harbor freight?
No I live in Canada and we don't have them. I bought it at a store called Princess Auto
Hey Bruce, I am having the same issue where my Briggs and Stratton Craftman 725 mower will not start when hot. I have to let it sit for a half hour then it will start. I wanted to see if you had any suggestions. I replaced ignition coil with a brand new one and I am still having the same issue that it won't start when hot. Any suggestions?
Note: I also cleaned the carb and the choke is clean and in good shape
ok after further diagnosing it looks to actually be the Auto Choke. when it was hot took of the plastic cover and the choke lost it spring back action after cooling down it will spring back and forth.
Those are a touchy thing. Good for you!!!
I have a toro 7hp self-paced lawnmower 2011. Replaced carb.. no luck, replaced coil.. no luck... checked valve intake side no clearance.. ground off bottom of valve .006 clearance. .. Now it works like a champ! (THIS WAS A VERY FRUSTRATING PROBLEM)
Yes you need more than on hand, that's why we born with 2👍😃
Thank you
The same exact lawn mower I have spits and sputters when it's hot and only when it's hot was thinking it could be the governor spring because it's old but now I'm thinking differently
Take your time. If you can find a spar coil try that.
How do you know if a valve job needs to be done?
There is little or no compression. Sometime you cane hear the bypass to
The bypass to what? I have a lawnmower with the same style engine that can be hard to restart if I don't prime it and it surges a little bit. What would the problem be? What should I do?
Great vids! Got any tips on buying a riding mower? My neighbor is getting up there in age and thinking about getting a riding mower. Are the $999.00 ones any good?
Rotate the coil???
I have a honda gcv 160 it runs great till it gets warmed up then starts sputtering eventually stalling I think the coil is getting hot is there something else I'm missing any insight would be appreciated
It sound like a coil the only problem is if you don't have access to a used one you have to take a chance and buy one before you are sure about the issue. The age old problem
HOW COME you didn't ohm the coils? That is part of trouble shooting!
It id but electronic ones are a bit harder to determine issues. I also had a spare coil right there.
How do you change the oil?
On these ones the drain is on the bottom.
yeah same happened to me took to shop they worked on carburettor so it wasn't fixed so I bought new coil problem fixed oh by the the way this had been happening for 1 year incredible
It isn't easy to diagnose.
Same issue with mine,,got to try a new coil
+stealhty1 Good luck!!!
+Bruce Pender i ll post the results
why would it not start after it warms up, what is happening?
The coil that makes the sparks expands and the electrical wires (very thin) go open.
I miss the days when the mowers had an actual throttle. I solve the instant off (idiot bar) problem with a cheap spring clamp that I attach to the handle. Nothing is worse than having to restart the mower every time you let go of the handle.
I have seen it where all the brake assembly is removes from the block and a switch is add the turn it off.
I have a neodymium magnet stuck on the handle and it stays running until I separate the two bars or handles. Works well.
You did it !! great!
No you did it (I think) hahaha
G,day tubes??
Right This was filmed 7 years ago when we talked like that.
what would you charge to fix it...just ballpark figure
+D Lastname The ignition coil
+D Lastname The ignition coil
so what fixed it?
At 7:35 you will see i installed a different coil.
Good show. TU
Thanks a lot
mine does the same thing I found the gas cap vent was stopped up I freed the vent .now its fine haha
Yes that can happen.
thanks for the vidio
Phil fonz you bet Phil
Good man.
Thanks
I used to cut 4 lawns on my block and had to fill the very small tank 3X. Problem is after turning off motor it took 20 pulls to restart it. Problem solved- I filled it up with gas with motor running making a mess. I was told it's the Magneto that got hot.. All a magneto is is a light strip of Copper ( right?(. I suspected Vapor Lock or the simple reason it's only a homeowners lawnmower not meant to run 3- 4 hours. Anybody out there able to share their comments????
Well a coil (magneto as you call it) is a step up transformer taking the low voltage generated buy the magnet in the coil the the now points replaced modern coil to create 20,000 volts for the sparks plug. They should run as long as needed. Sorry to jump back in.
So it cost you nothing to fix
Well i changed to a used coil.
Wow thats a lot of ingnition coils.
Every scrap mower I get I keep the coils.
I,ve had quite a few briggs with auto choke come in my shop with the problem you have, and its not always the coil that is bad, on quite a few it turns out the auto choke gets bound up with junk, and needs to be cleaned out, see if the auto choke doesn't move freely it will heat up and choke off the air and kill the engine, a simple trick is to hit the mechanism with compressed air and make sure it moves freely, if blowing it out doesn't work you have to replace the auto choke, cause you cant grease it cause it heats up, just a friendly share of things that also can be the problem , great video btw.
Yes that aluminum bracket that activates is sure flimsy eh!!!
yep....give me the quantum briggs anyday with a primer bulb, they never die.
Agree with both assessments and good diagnosis Bruce on this one. One more thing and this happened to me on my rider with 15.5 briggs is when it got hot it wouldn't start back because of dirty air filter,,, and yes Bruce mentioned checking them at the beginning of video. Hot engines need more air flow. Very nice video !
Thanks arciefan
I had a Briggs Ready Start Engine that would start but ran very poorly. Turned out to be a dead snake binding up the choke linkage. True story!
I worked on a B&S engine on a push mower that did the same thing. I put a different coil on it, and it did not fix the problem. Got to looking a little closer, and found that the kill wire had an abrasion on the plastic outer cover and would ground out against metal, stopping the engine occasionally. Put new kill wire on it, never did it again.
+Judy Stiern Good call Judy. You just never know That would have been a good video
Recently had the not restart when hot problem on our Husqvarna 21 inch push mower with a Briggs 725 EXI OHV mower. Did the coil replacement, tore down and cleaned the and eventually replaced the carb, problem
did not go away. Finally as a last resort tried temporarily disconnected the crankcase oil breather hose from the air cleaner inlet. Problem instantly corrected, mower now reliably starts when hot as long as the breather hose is not dumping oil fumes into the carb inlet. It appears that the hot oil fumes are messing up the air fuel mixture so ignition doesn’t happen when trying to start a hot engine. I’ve been making this comment on various no hot start lawn mower videos because I’ve never seen anyone else identify the oil breather fumes as a cause for a hot starting problems. The mower here is starting to burn oil and smokes a bit whenever it starts, I suspect it’s going to need its piston rings replaced (or be replaced by a new engine which might be more cost effective). Not really happy about that, only have used the mower for 3 seasons, and I’ve always been good about changing the oil and air filters. Someone commented that maybe pulling the breather hose off was allowing more air to get to the carb with a clogged air filter. That was not the case. Mower wouldn’t hot start even with the air filter removed. It’s apparently all about oil fume effects on the air fuel mixture.
This was one of the first videos of yours I ever watched. Set me on this path because it helped me a lot. Thank you Bruce, as always.
You are very welcome You made my day sir.
Internally shorted cap did that to me, only when it got hot. Also, on a international tractor 10 hp, the vent hole on the valve spring cover breathes on the carb float bowel, causing vapor lock on very hot conditions.
Thanks Robert. There is always something to learn.
Job well done Bruce. Experience again has show you exactly where the problem was located
Patrick Meehan Thanks Patrick. Delayed reply. Been out of town for a few days
First mow of 4th season, mower fires on first pull and works perfect for that day. Next cut 2 weeks later, starts again, but when emptying bag after 5 min, it won’t start. Starts fine 30 min later. Engine has to be 100% mechanically sound - I researched and found this video. Replaced the armature, and it’s back to a first pull start - after 4 years! This video was my main reference. Thanks for the description.
Well that is great. Thanks for watching.