A wonderful Forrest landscape…trying to catch up from a super busy summer workload…always a pleasure to visit your beautiful works and country…stay blessed
That forest is so perfect for foggy and moody pictures, amazing! My favorite is the one with the X-shape-trees at 18:20. I got some fog as well last week and finally was able to shoot a video about woodland photography during fog myself. Waited so long for the perfect conditions for it here in southwest Germany, took forever :D Great video as always Mads, you are a big inspiration for me
Another great video filled with many tips and useful information. You are gifted with an eye for composition and a remarkable talent for instruction. Your photos combined with the relaxing music selection are fascinating. I've learned so much watching your videos. Thank you for sharing.
The photo at about 22 mins is just beautiful. Love the balancing between the branches that are more red and orange and the trees on the left and right border balance this out as well.
I think taking a slightly wider shot, especially with a higher MP camera is a great idea. Not only is tightening the shot a whole lot easier- or even possible - in perfecting an image, but it allows for slight correction to level. Sometimes when the horizon is angled in the shot or the leaning of trees makes the images as taken look awkward a slight correction in post can really help. Thanks for valuable lessons.
Mads, the music you use for your videos is so Tranquil, it matches your landscapes so well, obviously why you choose it. Have you ever been to Northern Canada for a photography trip? It might be worth a visit.
@@MadsPeterIversen i live above the arctic circle. Perhaps you'd like to see some of my photos sometime to get an idea of you think a trip would be worth it for you?
This is a very interesting video. I have a 12-60mm lens for MFT and 16-80mm lens for Nikon APS-c. These are my go to lenses for general photography. They are wide enough and long enough for most occations.
There is so much valuable information in this video, I have had to watch it several times, The photos are outstanding and your instruction is incredible.Thank you so much for this presentation.
I have to say that I almost always just zoom in or out from the position I've chosen. Will definitely try moving my position and comparing the results. Great tip!
Thank you Mads. Again beautiful photos, beautiful place for a day of wandering with the camera. My standard lens, is my 24-120mm Nikon, 70-300mm Nikon and 20mm f/1.8 Nikon
Beautiful images Mads, the foggy conditions once again encapsulated the forest scenes perfectly. My 24-70 is normally my go to lens as it tends to be on my camera for travelling about although I considering the transition to RF glass with the 24-105mm as a first step
I shoot with the Canon RF 24-105mm f4L, RF 70-200mm f4L and the RF 100-400mm f5.5-7.1. I also have the RF 16mm f2.8 and the RF 50mm f1.8. Along with the Canon R5 or R6 I can fit these with my filters all into a medium sized back pack. In reality 65% of my shots are on the RF 24-105mm f4L and I don’t feel I have a lack of quality over the RF 24-70mm f2.8L which I use in portraiture.
The last woodland shot at 23:54 looks overexposed on the camera's screen, I know you must be ETTR but I see no histogram. How do you gauge how far to go on exposure compensation?
This is a very, very informative video so thank you. I am just getting started at photography as a hobby. i am using an old SONY NEX 5-R Mirrorless 16 mp camera, but my go to everyday lens is the SONY SEL 18-200 3.5-6.3. I also have the kit 18-55 mm but this rarely comes out of the bag now. I will be watching more of your videos as I get to know my camera more & move more into manual mode as apposed to Aperture priority & Shutter priority modes. I have a passion for landscape photograph so will also be taking onboard guidance on composition. Thanks again for your videos these are very helpful
Wow, wow, wow! The detail & colours in these photos are just so absolutely lovely, I spent ages just rewinding and enjoying the stills time and time again. Do you find the composition just ‘leaps out’ at you, or did it take a few visits then waiting for the right conditions? Keep up the fabulous work, thanks for the time you spend in bringing these videos to us.
I love your videos. I learn so much to help improve my photography. One thing that would be even more helpful, if you could show the info on each photo you present. Like in this video show what focal length the photo was taken.
@@MadsPeterIversen Thank you for this information. I love your videos and the music that goes with them. Keep up the great work! I love that song as well and thats why I wanted to find out.
Very useful video! Going to watch it again to try to understand even more! Happy you have great conditions again to take those beautiful photos of yours! Yesterday I had a very funny experience, didn’t think landscape photography could offer that: went out on a “distress” walk, thinking about Ukrainian/Russian people, feeling sad. Suddenly I lift up my eyes and see a birch tree that has a mark in it that looks like a ☮️ sign. Here comes the funny bit- someone has carved PEASE under it! I laughed so much at the whole tragicomic situation. I imagined someone before me, doing the same walk, feeling the same feelings and then misspelling Peace and wanting pease instead 😅. I have twisted humour, I know. So today I had conditions like the ones in your video, went back and took a photo of the Pease tree. Going to print it and hang it on the wall as a reminder of how fun photography can be. 💚
I really like that forest. I’ve settled on 3 lenses for my R5: RF’s 15-35. 2.8, 24-105 4.0, 70-200 2.8. Of course, use whatever you have but just get out and shoot. Thanks
Why do you OVER expose the picture 21:30 minutes ? Isnt it better to UNDER expose - because you can always pool out more details from a darker picture ? Sorry if stupid question. På forhånd tak :)
That is a very common misunderstanding, so completely understand why you ask. My best explanation is to watch my video on how to always get a perfect exposure and then the follow-up afterwards :)
@@MadsPeterIversen im gonna go to Boserup forest tomorrow and see if I can spot some deer og eagles at Kettinge Lake. Gonna park at Slusehuset and walk around. Never been there before. Do you know that forest/area ? If so, any tips to spot some animals ? Sony a7iv, Sigma 100-400, tamron 70-180 and Sony 16-35. Amateur photographer here who desperately needs experience :)
Mads, I have been searching for a WARM cold weather jacket. I like this jacket you are wearing in this video. Please tell me the manufacturer name, model of jacket, and where I could buy the coat, online. Thank you...
Interesting! I myself have nikon z 24-70 f/4 and very happy with it. So this is Troldeskoven in Rold skov. I would be happy if you could give the coordinates to nearest parking spot to this beautiful trees, because I am planning a visit. (Rold Storkro, is it possible to park there?)
Great video love your work. I find this video informative even though I shoot with primes. I got a 15 35 50 135 and one zoom 100-400 . I noticed once I started using primes over zooms I do more panoramic shots even if just 3 shots at 35mm or 3 shots at 50mm. I have done some stuff like 9 shots at 135mm. Using the primes also made it easier for me to See what the lens sees.
Oh yes, that makes sense. It's basically the same as shooting wider but with super increased quality as you get both more megapixels in one photo and the sharpness from the primes. I just would not like carrying so much glass around ;)
Hey Mads, loved the video! I have a question: This summer I am going to Iceland for 10 days, I would like to make some wide angle shots, but I don't know a lot about camera gear. Do you know any good wide angle lenses for a Panasonic Lumix MFT camera? Preferable 12-24mm (6-12mm for MFT) Thanks!
Try having alook at the "Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 8-18mm f/2.8-4 Asph H-E08018". This is the updated version. Not used it as I'm still saving up for it.
I own the PL 8-18 2.8-4 lens and can vouch for it’s IQ. Understand that your aperture does increase as you zoom out but even at f/4 it is a great lens. It is my 2nd most used lens, after my PL 12-60 2.8-4.
Apologies for being a bit behind on your vids Mads😟. Couple of things, I think there are times when it pays not to have everything in a photo sharp as a way of focusing the viewers eye on the part of the scene you really want them to look at and/or to help remove distractions. The other thing is to avoid blur to not be afraid (within reason!) to use slightly higher ISOs to achieve a faster shutter speed. Modern higher end cameras have great sensors and software like DxO Pure Raw, ON1 Photo Raw DeNoise AI (and I believe Topaz) have great ability to remove noise without compromising the image. Obviously shoot at base ISO if you can but I never worry about going to ISO 400/800 if I need to get a faster shutter speed. Very good tips vid.
great video and very interesting, I use a 10-18mm, 50mm and a cheap 55-210 kit lens. I use my 55 - 210 a lot for landscape pics specially for snowy and patchy cloud on moutain peaks here in NZ, but I keep on thinking that I am missing a lens as I have gone through two 16 50mm kit lenses which I used a lot and not having them I feel that I have a gap and am looking at the Tamron 18-300mm F3.5 -6.3 DI iii A VC VXD Sony E as this would fill that lens gap and I would not have to cahnge lenses often hoping also that the quality of photos would also be better and best of all have more reach for birdlife shots. Your thoughts on this would be appreciated. I would like to add re using a zoom lens in a forest, surely if you used a quality 30mm you could just move forward and back to take the photos would you not get the same result? Cheers Glenn
For me, the glass is everything. I struggled with cheaper lenses introducing chromatic aberration and fuzzy edges, before I realised that I had to spend serious dollars. My first $2,000 lens blew me away. Now I can experiment knowing I can trust whichever lens I am using.
@@MadsPeterIversen Sorry I did miss the start when putting on my headphones,however I was expecting the location to be a little nearer and not such a long drive.So I will give this a miss for now and focus on my trip to the west of Ireland.
When you take the photo, do you take it for a specific aspect ratio square, 4:3, 3:2 &16:9? as each one has a different feel, some feel more dynamic whilst others feel more stable/static...
The 24-120 focal range (and even the 24-105 range) is actaully "better" I feel, especailly if you find yourself needing to zoom far in, and in some cases as far as the lens will go if you're shooting with something like a 24-70, which on many lenses, the wide and telephoto extremes are not the sharpest, so with the 24-120 and 24-105's 70mm falls within the middle of the range, so you may actually see at worst, the same sharpness as a 24-70 zoomed all the way out (depends on the actual lens though) or possibly a sharper image because you're not zoomed to the extremes. In reality though, the differences are not probably that noticeable unless you pixel peep. As long as it's an f/4 fixed lens or faster, then you have enough room to stop down to f/8 or f/11 in most cases to get the sharpest apertures (about 1.5-2 stops down).
It s difficult for me to use a zoom. Never could. Always prefere to take 3 lenses with gaps instead of zooms ( that i don't have) last time i took 20 50 135mm... i can even take 2 lenses but for sure i will need a 24-120 FOR all no landscape Photography ( including video)
I just got the Z 24-120 F4 to replace the Z 24-70 F4 that came with my Z 6II. That extra reach is really nice while hiking and keeps me from have to switch lenses so often. The image quality is fantastic. I bring my 14-30 F4 and 70-300 to have a solid range for landscape.
I also just got this lens. In my opinion it is every bit as sharp and contrasty as the 24-70 f/2,8 S and is easily outperforming the f4. The only reason I‘m keeping the f/2,8 is because I need its faster aperture for events.
@@romanpul Yeah, I was going to keep my 24-70 f4 for certain situations but honestly I'm happier with the 24-120. It's bigger and heavier but it's not bad to walk around with. It feels like a well built lens. Solid, tactile and the zoom is tight, but smooth.
@@annetivendale8616 I don't think the the 100-400 is overkill for landscape. I have the FX 70-300 Nikkor lens and it produces beautiful shots. It's great for landscape and just about everything else but for wildlife it'll probably be too short unless you're close to the subject. I also have the 200-500 Nikkor lens and that is a perfect example of a lense that is overkill. It's big and heavy and I only pull it out on occasion. I thought about selling my 200-500 and 70-300 for the Z 100-400 but it financially doesn't make sense and I live being able to reach out to 500mm when needed. The Z 100-400 would be a great lens if you can afford but it might be short for wildlife if you have that interest. If you want a more affordable option the Nikkor FX 70-300 with the FTZ adapter would be really nice and much cheaper.
In a matter of time, any photographer will know fixed focal length normal lens, 50mm, 35mm, 28mm, etc. are far superior than dual-opening kit zoom lens that goes in the box along with the new camera body.
The real reason why your photos are compelling and amazing is not the camera or the lens but you. You have an eye of an artist the medium you have chosen is a camera. I think people get caught up in the gear which is fun and compelling as well I luv gear but it is all about the image the end result.
I would still prefer 24-70 F2.8 instead of lenses with F4 apertures such as 24-105, 24-135, 18-135, 18-105. Because the optical quality of F2.8 lenses, which are in the upper segment, is better than F4 lenses. Corner performance and sharpness are much better. I have the Sigma 24-70 F2.8 DG DN lens and I enjoy using it for all kinds of shooting with the Sony A7RIII. They match perfectly even when I crop them with the 42mp sensor.
Amazing Mads - great information and insight as always! Where in Denmark is that forrest? Also, you should come an join the Nikon team - that 24-120 is almost your perfect focal range 😁 Thank you for the great content - one of the highlights when a new video is released!🤩
Love your video and agree with your points, but I would suggest the biggest "standard zoom mistake" is to think you need a zoom lens in the first place. IMO the quality of photographs improve when the photographer is limited to a single or perhaps two lenses. The best single lens in my opinion is the Sony 50/1.2 followed by the 35/1.4. A photographer armed with either one of these will "out shoot" a photographer with a 24 to 70, 105, or 120. The "out shooting" is due in part to the higher quality optics, in part due to the wider max aperture, but mostly due to the constraint on the photographer with a single focal length that requires much greater thought placed on image composition. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for sharing, nice atmospheric photos. Please remind yourself also that non-Sony camera's probable have less dynamic range and more noise when cranking up ISO. This may affect the f-number of the lens you desire as well.
For the most part not in these circumstances. You generally want to shoot at ISO 100 (or lowest possible ISO) and the f-stop with the most focus without compromising on too much sharpness. Often the shutter speed is irrelevant in a calm forest.
I like your videos but sometimes you talk so fast that your information / your message unfortunately doesn't get through to me at least. It is always surprising that native speakers often speak much more slowly than non-native speakers. Just see that as a little tip, there are many who don't speak English so well, sometimes less is more, that's not meant in a bad way, maybe to be understood as a small suggestion.
Thanks!
What an amazing photo 9:17 WOW. Thank you for all of your wonderful videos.
Great video and beautiful images. Recently I own the Nikkor Z 24-120 f/4 S and now for me the go to lens making landscape photos.
Great video, love the tree shots with the moss. The last one is especially nice.
A wonderful Forrest landscape…trying to catch up from a super busy summer workload…always a pleasure to visit your beautiful works and country…stay blessed
Another great learning video for landscape photography. Location as always fantastic and mystical vibe to it.
Brilliant tips, thanks for the advice!
That forest is so perfect for foggy and moody pictures, amazing! My favorite is the one with the X-shape-trees at 18:20.
I got some fog as well last week and finally was able to shoot a video about woodland photography during fog myself. Waited so long for the perfect conditions for it here in southwest Germany, took forever :D
Great video as always Mads, you are a big inspiration for me
Thanks a lot, Sebastian. Yes, fog just makes a massive difference to forest photography!
Another great video filled with many tips and useful information. You are gifted with an eye for composition and a remarkable talent for instruction. Your photos combined with the relaxing music selection are fascinating. I've learned so much watching your videos. Thank you for sharing.
The photo at about 22 mins is just beautiful. Love the balancing between the branches that are more red and orange and the trees on the left and right border balance this out as well.
I think taking a slightly wider shot, especially with a higher MP camera is a great idea. Not only is tightening the shot a whole lot easier- or even possible - in perfecting an image, but it allows for slight correction to level. Sometimes when the horizon is angled in the shot or the leaning of trees makes the images as taken look awkward a slight correction in post can really help. Thanks for valuable lessons.
So refreshing to know your preference for the mid-range focal lengths.
Mads, the music you use for your videos is so Tranquil, it matches your landscapes so well, obviously why you choose it. Have you ever been to Northern Canada for a photography trip? It might be worth a visit.
I would love to go there, but I haven't no. And yes, I think the music really matches the photos :)
@@MadsPeterIversen i live above the arctic circle. Perhaps you'd like to see some of my photos sometime to get an idea of you think a trip would be worth it for you?
Thanks for reviewing the difference between compression vs cropping.
This is a very interesting video. I have a 12-60mm lens for MFT and 16-80mm lens for Nikon APS-c. These are my go to lenses for general photography. They are wide enough and long enough for most occations.
There is so much valuable information in this video, I have had to watch it several times, The photos are outstanding and your instruction is incredible.Thank you so much for this presentation.
Brilliant photos and advice. Thank you...
Tamron 18-70 on aps-c is a great combo.
Another great and very useful video Mads. So happy that you got through the Covid and back shooting again.
Take care.
Ross
I have to say that I almost always just zoom in or out from the position I've chosen. Will definitely try moving my position and comparing the results. Great tip!
It makes a big difference:)
Thank you Mads. Again beautiful photos, beautiful place for a day of wandering with the camera. My standard lens, is my 24-120mm Nikon, 70-300mm Nikon and 20mm f/1.8 Nikon
Thank you very informative and lovely images
I really enjoy images from thus location, great shots, thanks for the tips.
Wow fantastic pics 1st class love your work
Thanks for sharing! I would love to see where the focus was on particular photos or at least to mention if there was focus brackets.
Great tips on use of the standard zoom. You got me hooked on the Tamron 28-200.
Love the rim light you capture.
Thanks a lot, Ron :)
Gorgeous shots sir
i have a 55x200 in my bag that i enjoy playing with
Excellent video as always!!!
Beautiful images Mads, the foggy conditions once again encapsulated the forest scenes perfectly. My 24-70 is normally my go to lens as it tends to be on my camera for travelling about although I considering the transition to RF glass with the 24-105mm as a first step
Although the 24-70 usually have the edge on sharpness, I would feel almost naked compromising on focal length range these days 😅
I shoot with the Canon RF 24-105mm f4L, RF 70-200mm f4L and the RF 100-400mm f5.5-7.1. I also have the RF 16mm f2.8 and the RF 50mm f1.8. Along with the Canon R5 or R6 I can fit these with my filters all into a medium sized back pack.
In reality 65% of my shots are on the RF 24-105mm f4L and I don’t feel I have a lack of quality over the RF 24-70mm f2.8L which I use in portraiture.
Worthwhile considerations all. Nice images from some great conditions. 👍🥂
Great video Mads and loved the photos! I wish I had a forest like that nearby my home!
Excellent instructive video and visually stunning 👍
Excellent info! Thanks!
Great explanation of lens characteristics Mads, many thanks.....the images were pretty good as well 👌😉
The last woodland shot at 23:54 looks overexposed on the camera's screen, I know you must be ETTR but I see no histogram. How do you gauge how far to go on exposure compensation?
I use zebra stripes, I mention it in both my videos on exposure :)
@@MadsPeterIversen Thank you!
I enjoyed a friend's professional video about using a standard zoom lens with a beautiful fog in the background. I sympathize and support you.
Great photos. What a wonderful location?
This is a very, very informative video so thank you. I am just getting started at photography as a hobby. i am using an old SONY NEX 5-R Mirrorless 16 mp camera, but my go to everyday lens is the SONY SEL 18-200 3.5-6.3. I also have the kit 18-55 mm but this rarely comes out of the bag now. I will be watching more of your videos as I get to know my camera more & move more into manual mode as apposed to Aperture priority & Shutter priority modes. I have a passion for landscape photograph so will also be taking onboard guidance on composition. Thanks again for your videos these are very helpful
Wow, wow, wow! The detail & colours in these photos are just so absolutely lovely, I spent ages just rewinding and enjoying the stills time and time again. Do you find the composition just ‘leaps out’ at you, or did it take a few visits then waiting for the right conditions? Keep up the fabulous work, thanks for the time you spend in bringing these videos to us.
Thank you so much, Martin :) In this case they mainly popped at me as I've already photographed most of what I've scouted ;)
As a Nikon owner, I'm drooling on that 24-120mm. I can't wait to buy that lens.. probably in another year. I'm being patient!
Great video Mads!
I have a sony 24-70 f/2.8 G-master lens, that takes great sharp images.
I love your videos. I learn so much to help improve my photography. One thing that would be even more helpful, if you could show the info on each photo you present. Like in this video show what focal length the photo was taken.
I have the 28-200mm paired with an A7riiiA and it's a great combination!
Completely agree!
Hi Mads, Greetings from Chicago. What is the name of the artist and the song name that you used at the beginning of the video?
Cheers :) It's available on Epidemic Sound and is called Stratosphere Voyage (INSTRUMENTS). One of my favorite pieces of music I've ever used :)
@@MadsPeterIversen Thank you for this information. I love your videos and the music that goes with them. Keep up the great work! I love that song as well and thats why I wanted to find out.
Very useful video! Going to watch it again to try to understand even more! Happy you have great conditions again to take those beautiful photos of yours! Yesterday I had a very funny experience, didn’t think landscape photography could offer that: went out on a “distress” walk, thinking about Ukrainian/Russian people, feeling sad. Suddenly I lift up my eyes and see a birch tree that has a mark in it that looks like a ☮️ sign. Here comes the funny bit- someone has carved PEASE under it! I laughed so much at the whole tragicomic situation. I imagined someone before me, doing the same walk, feeling the same feelings and then misspelling Peace and wanting pease instead 😅. I have twisted humour, I know. So today I had conditions like the ones in your video, went back and took a photo of the Pease tree. Going to print it and hang it on the wall as a reminder of how fun photography can be. 💚
I really like that forest. I’ve settled on 3 lenses for my R5: RF’s 15-35. 2.8, 24-105 4.0, 70-200 2.8. Of course, use whatever you have but just get out and shoot. Thanks
Why do you OVER expose the picture 21:30 minutes ? Isnt it better to UNDER expose - because you can always pool out more details from a darker picture ? Sorry if stupid question.
På forhånd tak :)
That is a very common misunderstanding, so completely understand why you ask. My best explanation is to watch my video on how to always get a perfect exposure and then the follow-up afterwards :)
@@MadsPeterIversen will do. Mange tak 😬👌
@@MadsPeterIversen im gonna go to Boserup forest tomorrow and see if I can spot some deer og eagles at Kettinge Lake. Gonna park at Slusehuset and walk around. Never been there before. Do you know that forest/area ? If so, any tips to spot some animals ? Sony a7iv, Sigma 100-400, tamron 70-180 and Sony 16-35. Amateur photographer here who desperately needs experience :)
Mads, I have been searching for a WARM cold weather jacket. I like this jacket you are wearing in this video. Please tell me the manufacturer name, model of jacket, and where I could buy the coat, online. Thank you...
You mean the fotest in the west of Tisvildeleje?
Thanks for answer!
I hope we see you review the Tamron 35-150 sometime soon.
Sounds like the Tamron 35-150 f2-2.8 would be the perfect lens for you?
Interesting! I myself have nikon z 24-70 f/4 and very happy with it. So this is Troldeskoven in Rold skov. I would be happy if you could give the coordinates to nearest parking spot to this beautiful trees, because I am planning a visit. (Rold Storkro, is it possible to park there?)
Great video love your work. I find this video informative even though I shoot with primes. I got a 15 35 50 135 and one zoom 100-400 . I noticed once I started using primes over zooms I do more panoramic shots even if just 3 shots at 35mm or 3 shots at 50mm. I have done some stuff like 9 shots at 135mm. Using the primes also made it easier for me to See what the lens sees.
Oh yes, that makes sense. It's basically the same as shooting wider but with super increased quality as you get both more megapixels in one photo and the sharpness from the primes. I just would not like carrying so much glass around ;)
Hey Mads, loved the video! I have a question: This summer I am going to Iceland for 10 days, I would like to make some wide angle shots, but I don't know a lot about camera gear. Do you know any good wide angle lenses for a Panasonic Lumix MFT camera? Preferable 12-24mm (6-12mm for MFT) Thanks!
Sadly not no, never used that system. Maybe James Popsys had something on it as he used to use Panasonic :)
Try having alook at the "Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 8-18mm f/2.8-4 Asph H-E08018". This is the updated version. Not used it as I'm still saving up for it.
@@edwardrushton132 thanks! I'm doing it rn
I own the PL 8-18 2.8-4 lens and can vouch for it’s IQ. Understand that your aperture does increase as you zoom out but even at f/4 it is a great lens. It is my 2nd most used lens, after my PL 12-60 2.8-4.
is a good heavier aluminium tripod not more stable than a lightweigth carbon type? because of it massa
Apologies for being a bit behind on your vids Mads😟. Couple of things, I think there are times when it pays not to have everything in a photo sharp as a way of focusing the viewers eye on the part of the scene you really want them to look at and/or to help remove distractions. The other thing is to avoid blur to not be afraid (within reason!) to use slightly higher ISOs to achieve a faster shutter speed. Modern higher end cameras have great sensors and software like DxO Pure Raw, ON1 Photo Raw DeNoise AI (and I believe Topaz) have great ability to remove noise without compromising the image. Obviously shoot at base ISO if you can but I never worry about going to ISO 400/800 if I need to get a faster shutter speed. Very good tips vid.
Would like to see your edits on those first pictures.
Congratulations on finally getting a foggy day. I know its been eluding you lately. Great shots and great info on the best use of zoom lenses.
Mads, would recommend 24-105 Sony or 28-200 tamron? Do you miss the 24mm?
great video and very interesting, I use a 10-18mm, 50mm and a cheap 55-210 kit lens. I use my 55 - 210 a lot for landscape pics specially for snowy and patchy cloud on moutain peaks here in NZ, but I keep on thinking that I am missing a lens as I have gone through two 16 50mm kit lenses which I used a lot and not having them I feel that I have a gap and am looking at the Tamron 18-300mm F3.5 -6.3 DI iii A VC VXD Sony E as this would fill that lens gap and I would not have to cahnge lenses often hoping also that the quality of photos would also be better and best of all have more reach for birdlife shots. Your thoughts on this would be appreciated. I would like to add re using a zoom lens in a forest, surely if you used a quality 30mm you could just move forward and back to take the photos would you not get the same result? Cheers Glenn
For me, the glass is everything. I struggled with cheaper lenses introducing chromatic aberration and fuzzy edges, before I realised that I had to spend serious dollars. My first $2,000 lens blew me away. Now I can experiment knowing I can trust whichever lens I am using.
You had to? If you’re a professional then yes. If not, “had to” isn’t a thing 👍
Any chance you could tell us where you are, as I live in Skanderborg I am always looking for new locations to explore?
It's literally the first thing I say in the video 😅
@@MadsPeterIversen Sorry I did miss the start when putting on my headphones,however I was expecting the location to be a little nearer and not such a long drive.So I will give this a miss for now and focus on my trip to the west of Ireland.
When you take the photo, do you take it for a specific aspect ratio square, 4:3, 3:2 &16:9? as each one has a different feel, some feel more dynamic whilst others feel more stable/static...
I generally aim for 3:2 :)
Hey Mads, does ISO 50 do a better job than ISO 100?
It's almost indestinguishable but yes :)
this forest remind me of speulderbos in the netherlands
Flott, gammel bøkeskog. Er dette fra ett naturreservat? Hvis ikke, så burde skogen vernes=)
The 24-120 focal range (and even the 24-105 range) is actaully "better" I feel, especailly if you find yourself needing to zoom far in, and in some cases as far as the lens will go if you're shooting with something like a 24-70, which on many lenses, the wide and telephoto extremes are not the sharpest, so with the 24-120 and 24-105's 70mm falls within the middle of the range, so you may actually see at worst, the same sharpness as a 24-70 zoomed all the way out (depends on the actual lens though) or possibly a sharper image because you're not zoomed to the extremes. In reality though, the differences are not probably that noticeable unless you pixel peep. As long as it's an f/4 fixed lens or faster, then you have enough room to stop down to f/8 or f/11 in most cases to get the sharpest apertures (about 1.5-2 stops down).
I want a video on landscape photography without a tripod. Can you make it work?
Just increase the ISO :p
It s difficult for me to use a zoom. Never could. Always prefere to take 3 lenses with gaps instead of zooms ( that i don't have) last time i took 20 50 135mm... i can even take 2 lenses but for sure i will need a 24-120 FOR all no landscape Photography ( including video)
I just got the Z 24-120 F4 to replace the Z 24-70 F4 that came with my Z 6II. That extra reach is really nice while hiking and keeps me from have to switch lenses so often. The image quality is fantastic. I bring my 14-30 F4 and 70-300 to have a solid range for landscape.
I also just got this lens. In my opinion it is every bit as sharp and contrasty as the 24-70 f/2,8 S and is easily outperforming the f4. The only reason I‘m keeping the f/2,8 is because I need its faster aperture for events.
@@romanpul Yeah, I was going to keep my 24-70 f4 for certain situations but honestly I'm happier with the 24-120. It's bigger and heavier but it's not bad to walk around with. It feels like a well built lens. Solid, tactile and the zoom is tight, but smooth.
Some interesting ideas here.Just got my Z6ii with 24-70mm & looking at my next lens for landscape shots.? Would 100-400mm be overkill?
@@annetivendale8616 I don't think the the 100-400 is overkill for landscape. I have the FX 70-300 Nikkor lens and it produces beautiful shots. It's great for landscape and just about everything else but for wildlife it'll probably be too short unless you're close to the subject. I also have the 200-500 Nikkor lens and that is a perfect example of a lense that is overkill. It's big and heavy and I only pull it out on occasion. I thought about selling my 200-500 and 70-300 for the Z 100-400 but it financially doesn't make sense and I live being able to reach out to 500mm when needed.
The Z 100-400 would be a great lens if you can afford but it might be short for wildlife if you have that interest. If you want a more affordable option the Nikkor FX 70-300 with the FTZ adapter would be really nice and much cheaper.
@@scottk.8494 Many thanks for your useful information and for taking the time to reply.
Why is there no real antonym for mistake?
I’m so scared to buy the 24-70 GM just to find out a month later a second version is coming lol
Haha yes, that was my fear with the 16-35 f/2.8
In a matter of time, any photographer will know fixed focal length normal lens, 50mm, 35mm, 28mm, etc. are far superior than dual-opening kit zoom lens that goes in the box along with the new camera body.
The real reason why your photos are compelling and amazing is not the camera or the lens but you. You have an eye of an artist the medium you have chosen is a camera. I think people get caught up in the gear which is fun and compelling as well I luv gear but it is all about the image the end result.
Going crazy with them arrows on the thumbnail lol
I would still prefer 24-70 F2.8 instead of lenses with F4 apertures such as 24-105, 24-135, 18-135, 18-105. Because the optical quality of F2.8 lenses, which are in the upper segment, is better than F4 lenses. Corner performance and sharpness are much better. I have the Sigma 24-70 F2.8 DG DN lens and I enjoy using it for all kinds of shooting with the Sony A7RIII. They match perfectly even when I crop them with the 42mp sensor.
Heter det Trollskog ??
Yeah, but in danish Troldeskoven
@@MadsPeterIversen tusen takk for svar 👍👍 Jeg skal til Denmark i sommerferien
Amazing Mads - great information and insight as always! Where in Denmark is that forrest? Also, you should come an join the Nikon team - that 24-120 is almost your perfect focal range 😁
Thank you for the great content - one of the highlights when a new video is released!🤩
Brave man, lonely in a dangerous troll forest. 😱😱😱 Thanks a lot for your usefull tips.
Maybe have some settings on ur pictures, so us amateurs can get some "tips".
Love your video and agree with your points, but I would suggest the biggest "standard zoom mistake" is to think you need a zoom lens in the first place. IMO the quality of photographs improve when the photographer is limited to a single or perhaps two lenses. The best single lens in my opinion is the Sony 50/1.2 followed by the 35/1.4. A photographer armed with either one of these will "out shoot" a photographer with a 24 to 70, 105, or 120. The "out shooting" is due in part to the higher quality optics, in part due to the wider max aperture, but mostly due to the constraint on the photographer with a single focal length that requires much greater thought placed on image composition. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for sharing, nice atmospheric photos. Please remind yourself also that non-Sony camera's probable have less dynamic range and more noise when cranking up ISO. This may affect the f-number of the lens you desire as well.
For the most part not in these circumstances. You generally want to shoot at ISO 100 (or lowest possible ISO) and the f-stop with the most focus without compromising on too much sharpness. Often the shutter speed is irrelevant in a calm forest.
The video was just a drawn out advert for e-books, courses, and amazon links. Basic info with soft music must create sales.
He said Compressed, end of video!
Very good pictures but the demonstration intent is unclear for the first half of the video
I like your videos but sometimes you talk so fast that your information / your message unfortunately doesn't get through to me at least. It is always surprising that native speakers often speak much more slowly than non-native speakers. Just see that as a little tip, there are many who don't speak English so well, sometimes less is more, that's not meant in a bad way, maybe to be understood as a small suggestion.
STOP using zoom Lenses !