Wish I would have came across your vid earlier... Probably wouldn't have attempted this with how big of a pain in the ass it was. Good video and definitely lets people know what they are getting into before. The rear pedestal bolts and the lower two exhaust bolts will make you beyond frustrated.
I like the bolt/washer fix for the hole in the ebpv arm housing. BUT, you should've just reversed the bolt, put it thru from the outside so that the head of the bolt is showing, the extra length of the bolt would be no problem inside the housing, you wouldn't have had to cut the bolt, and the bolt head is probably shorter than the nut, leaving more clearance. But nice job.
You mentioned the bracket, and that you weren't sure what it's even for.. which gave me pause, and made me look back at your entire pedestal. Maybe this has been mentioned already I haven't sifted through all the comments yet... but that looks like a van pedestal... you have all the extra threaded spots for the turbo shield that a van has.. I know this because I am currently looking at deleted pedestals for my van and realizing they don't have the threaded spots for the shield... thus I landed here watching how to delete my factory unit... anyways... this video being 4 years old I'm sure someone has mentioned it... I'm just glad to see this, so I don't have to spend money on a new pedestal that I would have to modify anyhow.
update... I just compared photos of custom built delete units vs factory.. it appears they used the same pedestal for van and truck, it's just the aftermarket deleted units that don't have the threaded spots for the shield the van uses... very interesting.
I cut an access panel into the firewall from the inside of the cab. I made a strong decision to do it to be able to get the turbo and pedestal removed. I am glad I did this, because it was even tough with the access panel...so many rusted-on fasteners needed to be cut off (always use high-heat antiseize)
😂😂😂😅... i can't wait to get into my 7.3 thats been leaking about a year now ., you've confirmed my inner gut feeling,. Im in a yard , 8in lift no shop .... 😅😅😅but were getting close to the end of me dealing with it .
Great video. I’m trying to pull turbo in My 1996 f250. I have flange bolts out and three pedestal bolts. The 4th (pass Rear) is fully loosened, I cannot get out of the hole due to up pipe flange. So my turbo is hung up and won’t come out. Any suggestions besides removing fuel system?? Thx
I'm in the middle of replacing the turbo pedestal on a 7.3 in a school bus. Way easier than in a pickup. I had the turbo and pedestal off in about 15 minutes. Waiting for parts in the morning to put it back together.
Using the stubby wrench is the only way to remove those bolts but how did you torque them to factory specs? Also the the flange must be perfectly married to the pipe! It may look like it’s together but the underside might be slightly open causing a pressure leak
What is your recommended procedure prep for the first restart of a new/rebuilt turbo? Do you crank the motor with the fuel pump fuse/relay disconnected to get the oil flowing, or just pre-lube it to death, and start it normally? Ty
Let me ask you a question when you took everything out your manifold platform with the four bolts cuz that wiggle with yours and flexor is it secure and type? Mine is moving
Started the job struggling to get your nuts off... Well its a good thing everyone here has a good clean mind... Added your channel because you were less chatty, more worky... I hate ppl that just want to hear themselves talk...
Nice job. I bet there was a little foul language being heard a country mile. I thought my 2001 7.3 turbo rebuild and delete was tough! With my 2000 yesterday I finished up glow plugs and took the side off the turbo housing to install a wicked wheel 2. I was lucky on this one no leaks down there, so no need to remove turbo. I'm going to install a Banks Big head waste gate actuator, the thing I hated was getting the E clip off the shaft on the old one. Getting a new one on in going to be a real pain. Two tips I ran across, use dental floss to keep from losing it, and the go to Napa and buy C clips instead of the E clip, I guess they slide on easier. I may do a video of that little night mare. As always Taylor, fun to watch your vids!
timmy tool glad to hear you got another project completed! The wicked wheel should make a nice difference! This was no fun at all. Foul language was cut out of the video haha
Could you tell me what exact hardware you bought for your ebpv delete. And did you find it had more power? Your not blowing white smoke are you from the end of the video it looks like it
Hey men...i'm fron Uruguay...here this is an inusual van...it took me many hours to try to remover it..cutting bolts from de escape to se how ti do ir because of they Tini space to work..y wish You undestand My leak English expresións..thanks for your vídeo!!!
There is no '98 7.3 Powerstroke. Ford skipped that year for some reason and manufactured two years-worth of the '99 trucks (referred to as early 99 and 99.5).
I laughed my ass off when you commented on how bad it was as it’s insane… I have a 96 7.3 and had a couple of injectors go bad, so I did all injectors and glows. Rebuilt the turbo with factory Garrett rebuild kit. I also replaced the fuel pump at same time as they eventually start to leak and since I have the turbo out I’ll do it. This will be my second one. My pedestal was leaking too, so I decided like a dumbass to replace it and keep it stock, big mistake. Should have went with the pro source diesel replacement kit with no valve… so I get it all done with the new Chinese made pedestal and I noticed the spring was way hard. I adjusted it like the ford book said to 10 pounds and installed it, shit I had no power, so I started adjusting it and it’s improving. I have to adjust more, if I run out of adjustment, screw it I’ll just disconnect the rod from the butterfly valve and leave it loose, wire the valve open, unplug the wire to the pedestal and go with it… I have taken the turbo off twice and it’s like sticking needles in your eyes, ha ha. It’s the worse… thought I would mention my experience on how I’m dealing with it… I want to beat the shit out of the engineer that designed this… 😂😂😂
Carefully ordering kits got one with square gasket now realizing mine was circular 99 is a much easier yr to work on could always weld flap open on side of turbo for pretty stuck ones
to remove the right lower nut you had trouble with remove that stupid star nut that is right in the way, should give you plenty of room with a 15mm universal nut once that thing isn't there, as for the stripped star nut, use a dremel and cut the head off or use a tiny pair of parrot beak pliers, the ones that seem to grip tighter the more you push on them, once the thing snaps free you can spin it by hand and if you can't use this try a small extractor on the head tapped on hard with a small ratchet for clearance, the flare nut style crows foot will make the flange nut underneath the parts super easy to take off once cleared, alternately use a universal joint with the crows foot so you don't gotta go in at it directly. and whatever you do don't install a plain single scroll gasket on the back like you did, it leaves a gap for gasses to pass by which does effect your performance with feedback, gotta get the right gasket that separates the walls, someone had done same to my truck and i fixed it noticing a decent improvement on turbo spin up.
You did a good job but I also changed my fuel pump while I was that far into it. But I love my old truck. It's a 94.5 and it still runs great. I bought it new.
Easiest way is to take the turbo apart while on the truck. Especially if you have lots of miles on it. You can rebuild with 360 kit right on the truck, and replace all pedestal O-rings.
Great truck mate 👍 it's a really fucking hard to remove the damm turbo I know as well 😝 on my excursión I passed a bad stress moment's for replacing that crap oil seals 🤪 anyway you showed very good what you did 👍 👏 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 👍
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel I have a couple of big 'ol couch cushions in the shop that I use for just such occasions. It's definitely a tough job, especially if you don't have the tools and experience from having done it previously.
Would've been smart to replace the up pipes before they start leaking and you'll end up making it harder for yourself putting the turbo on before doing it
If you have 98 and up, I had a he'll of time trying to remove the clamp on the up side, I pryed up on the exhaust side trying to wiggle it free, mind you I removed the bolts bolting the turbo to the the pedestal. Don't ever do that, there's a sleeve on the pedestal that I partially damaged, bought a new deleted pedestal. I used a pipe on the upper junction and knocked it loose with a hammer, clamp freed and turbo fell right off. 👍
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel thanks bru. Found a kit online with o rings and back turbo flange gasket so I should be good. Got videos on my 7.3 too in case your interested. Thanks again!
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel it is 3/4" Plug. I did this on my truck. going to put out a video of actually removing it. not just showing it already out. It took me all day trying to figure out the tool combination to do it. I have a 97 F350 with the 7.3 powerstroke. I need to get the video edited and put up. I took it in 4k. what a mistake because now I have to get a better computer first to edit all the video I took working on my truck.
![เจอประจำ ตอน เปิดเทอมวันแรก [EP.29]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFK-B836i60/mqdefault.jpg)
Wish I would have came across your vid earlier... Probably wouldn't have attempted this with how big of a pain in the ass it was.
Good video and definitely lets people know what they are getting into before.
The rear pedestal bolts and the lower two exhaust bolts will make you beyond frustrated.
Halfway'thru this exact project! Great info and thank you
That's a clean truck love it, keep posting videos please!
I like the bolt/washer fix for the hole in the ebpv arm housing. BUT, you should've just reversed the bolt, put it thru from the outside so that the head of the bolt is showing, the extra length of the bolt would be no problem inside the housing, you wouldn't have had to cut the bolt, and the bolt head is probably shorter than the nut, leaving more clearance. But nice job.
Dude!!!! That truck is amazing. It looks exactly the same as mine! Even the same Green Tourmaline color and crome trim.
Finally someone actually helped me
You mentioned the bracket, and that you weren't sure what it's even for.. which gave me pause, and made me look back at your entire pedestal. Maybe this has been mentioned already I haven't sifted through all the comments yet... but that looks like a van pedestal... you have all the extra threaded spots for the turbo shield that a van has.. I know this because I am currently looking at deleted pedestals for my van and realizing they don't have the threaded spots for the shield... thus I landed here watching how to delete my factory unit... anyways... this video being 4 years old I'm sure someone has mentioned it... I'm just glad to see this, so I don't have to spend money on a new pedestal that I would have to modify anyhow.
update... I just compared photos of custom built delete units vs factory.. it appears they used the same pedestal for van and truck, it's just the aftermarket deleted units that don't have the threaded spots for the shield the van uses... very interesting.
I cut an access panel into the firewall from the inside of the cab. I made a strong decision to do it to be able to get the turbo and pedestal removed. I am glad I did this, because it was even tough with the access panel...so many rusted-on fasteners needed to be cut off (always use high-heat antiseize)
truck looks real nice in that green
😂😂😂😅... i can't wait to get into my 7.3 thats been leaking about a year now ., you've confirmed my inner gut feeling,. Im in a yard , 8in lift no shop .... 😅😅😅but were getting close to the end of me dealing with it .
Have you tried a crows foot for a ratchet?
I've had to make many "custom" wrench forjust such a job
Great video. I’m trying to pull turbo in My 1996 f250. I have flange bolts out and three pedestal bolts. The 4th (pass Rear) is fully loosened, I cannot get out of the hole due to up pipe flange. So my turbo is hung up and won’t come out. Any suggestions besides removing fuel system?? Thx
Can you provide info on freeze plug.. where can I get one
I'm in the middle of replacing the turbo pedestal on a 7.3 in a school bus. Way easier than in a pickup. I had the turbo and pedestal off in about 15 minutes. Waiting for parts in the morning to put it back together.
Lucky bastard
This helped me figure out a lot
Using the stubby wrench is the only way to remove those bolts but how did you torque them to factory specs? Also the the flange must be perfectly married to the pipe! It may look like it’s together but the underside might be slightly open causing a pressure leak
What is your recommended procedure prep for the first restart of a new/rebuilt turbo? Do you crank the motor with the fuel pump fuse/relay disconnected to get the oil flowing, or just pre-lube it to death, and start it normally? Ty
Let me ask you a question when you took everything out your manifold platform with the four bolts cuz that wiggle with yours and flexor is it secure and type? Mine is moving
How did you get to the bolts on the back of the pedestal
Is there a way to just remove the back pressure actuator?
Started the job struggling to get your nuts off... Well its a good thing everyone here has a good clean mind...
Added your channel because you were less chatty, more worky... I hate ppl that just want to hear themselves talk...
nice OBS- and beautiful little car in the background- you should do an intro on it.
My buddys 96 is factory with just 130k on it but i noticed the turbo isnt spooling on it. I may have to check this stuff out and see whats going
Nice job. I bet there was a little foul language being heard a country mile. I thought my 2001 7.3 turbo rebuild and delete was tough! With my 2000 yesterday I finished up glow plugs and took the side off the turbo housing to install a wicked wheel 2. I was lucky on this one no leaks down there, so no need to remove turbo. I'm going to install a Banks Big head waste gate actuator, the thing I hated was getting the E clip off the shaft on the old one. Getting a new one on in going to be a real pain. Two tips I ran across, use dental floss to keep from losing it, and the go to Napa and buy C clips instead of the E clip, I guess they slide on easier. I may do a video of that little night mare. As always Taylor, fun to watch your vids!
timmy tool glad to hear you got another project completed! The wicked wheel should make a nice difference! This was no fun at all. Foul language was cut out of the video haha
Man is this still holding up good need to know bec I have to do this?? Thanks in advance
How did you get the studs out what tools?
How did you get enough leverage to break the lower flange nuts loose? Mine seem like they will not budge at all...no room for a grinder back there ;)
Do you not weld those 2 small holes inside the pedestal once you remove the spring & guts??
Is that custom ebpv delete still holding up
Eeek... seems like that bolt and washer setup would leak, I'm just going to tap it to NPT and put a plug in mine.
Could you tell me what exact hardware you bought for your ebpv delete. And did you find it had more power? Your not blowing white smoke are you from the end of the video it looks like it
Should of changed the up-pipes/gaskets and downpipe out while you were in there. It makes things so much nicer.
I did that. Because it's the perfect opportunity, right?
Good effort on the vid.
Hey men...i'm fron Uruguay...here this is an inusual van...it took me many hours to try to remover it..cutting bolts from de escape to se how ti do ir because of they Tini space to work..y wish You undestand My leak English expresións..thanks for your vídeo!!!
There is no '98 7.3 Powerstroke. Ford skipped that year for some reason and manufactured two years-worth of the '99 trucks (referred to as early 99 and 99.5).
Bro show the part where you got the bolts off of the pedestal platform I am struggling so hard with that
I laughed my ass off when you commented on how bad it was as it’s insane… I have a 96 7.3 and had a couple of injectors go bad, so I did all injectors and glows. Rebuilt the turbo with factory Garrett rebuild kit. I also replaced the fuel pump at same time as they eventually start to leak and since I have the turbo out I’ll do it. This will be my second one. My pedestal was leaking too, so I decided like a dumbass to replace it and keep it stock, big mistake. Should have went with the pro source diesel replacement kit with no valve… so I get it all done with the new Chinese made pedestal and I noticed the spring was way hard. I adjusted it like the ford book said to 10 pounds and installed it, shit I had no power, so I started adjusting it and it’s improving. I have to adjust more, if I run out of adjustment, screw it I’ll just disconnect the rod from the butterfly valve and leave it loose, wire the valve open, unplug the wire to the pedestal and go with it… I have taken the turbo off twice and it’s like sticking needles in your eyes, ha ha. It’s the worse… thought I would mention my experience on how I’m dealing with it… I want to beat the shit out of the engineer that designed this… 😂😂😂
friend I have a 2006 super duty I pass water to the oil do you think that the pure oil cooler is possible?
where did you get the gasket from?
Carefully ordering kits got one with square gasket now realizing mine was circular 99 is a much easier yr to work on could always weld flap open on side of turbo for pretty stuck ones
Wish I did this tried the none evbp twice with new o rings and now it leeks wondering its its a bad pedestal
IS THE 1990 F350 7;1 DISOL A ISY TO WORK ..
to remove the right lower nut you had trouble with remove that stupid star nut that is right in the way, should give you plenty of room with a 15mm universal nut once that thing isn't there, as for the stripped star nut, use a dremel and cut the head off or use a tiny pair of parrot beak pliers, the ones that seem to grip tighter the more you push on them, once the thing snaps free you can spin it by hand and if you can't use this try a small extractor on the head tapped on hard with a small ratchet for clearance, the flare nut style crows foot will make the flange nut underneath the parts super easy to take off once cleared, alternately use a universal joint with the crows foot so you don't gotta go in at it directly.
and whatever you do don't install a plain single scroll gasket on the back like you did, it leaves a gap for gasses to pass by which does effect your performance with feedback, gotta get the right gasket that separates the walls, someone had done same to my truck and i fixed it noticing a decent improvement on turbo spin up.
You did a good job but I also changed my fuel pump while I was that far into it. But I love my old truck. It's a 94.5 and it still runs great. I bought it new.
What's the code for that paint color ?
I think the problem I am having is related to the EBPS or the actuator itself or the line. This looks like a complete nightmare.
Btw mine is the 97 F 350 dually. Same set up and turbo.
What is the color code for that truck? I would like to know please.
any vids of the tina
Should’ve welded a nut to the stripped out bolt
Did you lose any power when you made a delete
Aww look at that itty bitty baby turbo
Beautiful obs. Sounds a little strange at idle and a little blue smoke, have you thought about injectors?
It was very cold out and the truck hadn't ran in several days. The smoke clears up when its warm. Thank you!
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel said every diesle owner ever 😂😂🚜💨💨💨💨
Easiest way is to take the turbo apart while on the truck. Especially if you have lots of miles on it. You can rebuild with 360 kit right on the truck, and replace all pedestal O-rings.
Great truck mate 👍 it's a really fucking hard to remove the damm turbo I know as well 😝 on my excursión I passed a bad stress moment's for replacing that crap oil seals 🤪 anyway you showed very good what you did 👍 👏 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 👍
BRAVO !!!!
When. You? Deleted this? Did you have to do anything else to the computer
Hahaha. How's your back after that job? That one sucks, for sure. Hope it stays leak free for you.
DIYMechanicTV thank you! Truthfully my stomach and chest hurt the most considering I was laying on the hood latch and alternator for 6+ hours haha
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel I have a couple of big 'ol couch cushions in the shop that I use for just such occasions. It's definitely a tough job, especially if you don't have the tools and experience from having done it previously.
Wow. That was dirt cheap.
Would've been smart to replace the up pipes before they start leaking and you'll end up making it harder for yourself putting the turbo on before doing it
If you have 98 and up, I had a he'll of time trying to remove the clamp on the up side, I pryed up on the exhaust side trying to wiggle it free, mind you I removed the bolts bolting the turbo to the the pedestal. Don't ever do that, there's a sleeve on the pedestal that I partially damaged, bought a new deleted pedestal. I used a pipe on the upper junction and knocked it loose with a hammer, clamp freed and turbo fell right off. 👍
Taylor Smith Where did you get your freeze plug for the ebpv?
Matthew Murphy I got it from Napa Auto Parts. Unfortunately I can’t remember the size anymore. There are some forums online about this DIY solution.
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel okay thanks! And where did you get your o rings?
Matthew Murphy the o-rings were from Napa as well. Just from a generic box of assorted o-rings behind the counter. Total MacGyver fix haha.
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel thanks bru. Found a kit online with o rings and back turbo flange gasket so I should be good. Got videos on my 7.3 too in case your interested. Thanks again!
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel it is 3/4" Plug. I did this on my truck. going to put out a video of actually removing it. not just showing it already out. It took me all day trying to figure out the tool combination to do it. I have a 97 F350 with the 7.3 powerstroke. I need to get the video edited and put up. I took it in 4k. what a mistake because now I have to get a better computer first to edit all the video I took working on my truck.
How the hell was that $3750!
Ryan Haverkamp that’s what I was saying!!
3700 bucks for this gem?!? In the market today that thing would go for 15k+
Just paid 5 for mine in just as good of condition with a bit of a lift
Bought one for 500 with 150k. Drove it home.
One of lol need crows foot and swivels for this and a lot of knocker loose
didn't even talk about the hardest bolt. the back drivers pedestal bolt
That's a nice mk1 cortina.
Show me a 98 power stroke..... I'll wait.
I bought a 96 with 161k miles showroom condition,brand new tires,never off road,never towed anything,oil changed every 3000 miles,6000 dollars
you can sell it for 15 now
I just did one of these it was like a 6 hour job just to get off worst design ever
YOU CAN USE A GOOD TORCH
if that paint is original its mint
TattsForLife it was original. I had buffed on that thing for an entire day to bring it back. I sold the truck shortly after this video
@@TaylorSmithAutomotiveChannel have you tryed wizards buffing compound out yet
Lose the mid add
Lots of blow by coming out of exhaust, engine is probably tired
The motor is tired.
It’s snowing dude, that’s condensation...
watching in 2022. you can sell that truck for over 10k easy
3,700🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🫠
Very difficult job? Lol jeez 🤣
Buy some decent tools Taylor
Don’t understand the point of the video if you don’t show how you did things 😂
It's a Ford... I can't stand em even with a 7.3
These trucks are piece of shit money pits. I have never understood the 7.3 hype.
Obvious troll is obvious
@@strifelife4003 He isnt wrong
@@darrylcumming413 he is
that bracket is to hold the ebpv solenoid down and keep oil from shooting out. It probably popped out on you already and shot oil all over the place.