Nice video but fyi your light bar analogy is off. A 700w load at 12.8v would require about 53amps. That’s going to need 8 gauge wire. Real world example you run 2 sets of dd ssc2 sport lights that are 7.7w each for a total of 30.8w. That will require 2.3 amps and can be wired to any switch. Switch to the pro and you now need 25.6w each total 102.4 and 7.8 amps meaning you have to use switches 1,2, or 3. If you running a light bar on the factory #1 25amp switch you are limited to 320 watts. Using 14 gauge wire for a 8ft run at that amperage is really pushing it though and I would say a safer range on a 25amp circuit with 14awg is closer to 22 amps or under 300w. That means you’re fine for a single row 40inch bar by most companies but it’s not going to handle say a 7 pod DD ssc5 light bar that is 630w.
My friend has a bronco I hooked all her accessories up through those switches. One day the windows stopped rolling down when you open the door and would not roll up we took it to Ford and they won't cover it under warranty because we have the auxiliary switches hooked up to aftermarket parts. I find it hard to believe Ford puts those things in there and then turns away the warranty if someone hooks up aftermarket accessories. Have you heard anything about this?
We were told if you don't use Ford products they will not honor the warranty on anything electrical when we purchased the truck. Yes that's BS, but that's the way they are going to run it. So I skipped using the aux switches, and just wired the lights up the old fashioned way. If I have any issues, I'll pull the lights off before it goes in for warranty repairs. PITA, but the only way you'll be saved.
Very helpful video, thank you for posting it
Thanks for watching!
Nice video but fyi your light bar analogy is off. A 700w load at 12.8v would require about 53amps. That’s going to need 8 gauge wire. Real world example you run 2 sets of dd ssc2 sport lights that are 7.7w each for a total of 30.8w. That will require 2.3 amps and can be wired to any switch. Switch to the pro and you now need 25.6w each total 102.4 and 7.8 amps meaning you have to use switches 1,2, or 3. If you running a light bar on the factory #1 25amp switch you are limited to 320 watts. Using 14 gauge wire for a 8ft run at that amperage is really pushing it though and I would say a safer range on a 25amp circuit with 14awg is closer to 22 amps or under 300w. That means you’re fine for a single row 40inch bar by most companies but it’s not going to handle say a 7 pod DD ssc5 light bar that is 630w.
My friend has a bronco I hooked all her accessories up through those switches. One day the windows stopped rolling down when you open the door and would not roll up we took it to Ford and they won't cover it under warranty because we have the auxiliary switches hooked up to aftermarket parts. I find it hard to believe Ford puts those things in there and then turns away the warranty if someone hooks up aftermarket accessories. Have you heard anything about this?
@philpollard7260 wow, that's wild. I have not heard anything about this, but I assume it just blew a fuse right?
Is too complicated wrangler is on one wire and ground the other wire
@tonyvega7268 that's how these are too. The wires are pre-ran, all you have to do is hook up to them and ground your accessory.
We were told if you don't use Ford products they will not honor the warranty on anything electrical when we purchased the truck. Yes that's BS, but that's the way they are going to run it. So I skipped using the aux switches, and just wired the lights up the old fashioned way. If I have any issues, I'll pull the lights off before it goes in for warranty repairs. PITA, but the only way you'll be saved.
Somehow, I'm more confused
@@Buwtz confused about what?