"Not a toy" will never stop me from making sound effects and flying my gundam around the workspace like a jetplane for 3 seconds before I snap back to reality
We need more creators doing content like this! So many people complain about problems with a kit but never do anything to show their viewers how to remedy the problems so they don’t have to deal with it. You’re really ahead of the game when compared to other creators and it’s amazing!
At 27.41. You can use super glue, applying directly. Let the glue flow into the joint. While the glue is curing you then move the joint bact and forth. Do it slow but don't stop until the glue completely dry. The joint is still movable but will be more tight. If it is not tight enough, do it again. I used this technic in many prebulid joints in RG kits.
I did this unconsciously with my broken arm in wing zero RG... What a shock it was, when I realised the arm is in one place, connected again, stiff, and movable...
I've been looking for content like this for a while which focused more on the experience rather than petty complains and I'm glad you took the initiative to do it.
I built this kit about four months ago. I did some pre build spinal surgery. Tightened up the waist arm and shoulder joints and added some small pieces of plastic inside the waist to give it support. Now the kit can stand freely with everything attached to it.
This is the best video explaining the shortcomings and offering solutions to the problems with this ambitious kit. Thank you for not just trashing and ranting about the imperfections that are not impossible to work around. This is gold to me, I have been sitting on this kit for years researching the various ways to make it come together and stay together. You are a gem.
I still have mine that I got probably a year after it released and it still holds well except for the backpack that has a kinda funky connection. I honestly would still recommend it for those in they’re intermediate stage of gunpla collecting
Yes that backpack connection is really strange, it locks ok but if you want to get it out, kind of loose but still kind of connected… but aesthetically, dashing is the word for it
In wood carving we call a cut toward yourself a "pull cut" and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it as long as you are maintaining knife control, usually choked up onto the blade, and using soft even pressure. Your technique is fine. Have loved finding this account and watching through this rich back catalog! Keep up the good work
I would say not every model kit can be perfect. Rg line has been an experimental for Bandai before it became the way it is today. Sinanju in overall is a great model if you can fix those issue up and I really enjoy its unique build process.
I had tighten the joint from beginning to avoid the future hassle. I would only say that it is a model worth spending time on fixing the issue and to enjoy its other better aspect. But that is just my perspective and my joy in building complicated and complex model. My sinanju is still standing up well after all my play and disassembly (to enjoy the inner frame) too.
I think they were testing the concept of reusing molds by adjusting some parts of it, and since it failed, they never tried it again hence why other supposed real grades never came out like goufs(probably base on the zaku frame).
Love this type of content, I wouldn't mind if you made this more of an official series on your channel. Great stuff, screw the naysayers and ignore that noise!
My experience of building the RG Sinanju was that it was solid and all the complaints were overblown (or had been resolved before I got my blue label kit) and then I put the backpack on and it turned into a floppy mess. Still looks great, just uh... sorta leans backward onto the wall behind him
Zup Zack, great video, One of my first builds, I like it, from a “colector” perspective point of view, I think it looks amazing just the way it is. Love the details on it, and after my experience painting the hg“Stein”, the gold parts are awesome making it a nice straight build. I don’t think I’ll ever try to paint this kit, but would love to see the fallow up of this video, you are amazing, thanks again for the video.
Great vid! Really appreciate that you tackled the problems from both perspectives despite having a "modeler's" bias, particularly when suggesting fixes for the loose joint problems which don't necessarily permanently fix the articulation (because I do like to repose my kits every so often, though I wouldn't say enough to feel like I treat them like toys). Also since you mentioned not knowing when your kit was produced, I believe you can tell that by the two clocks on the back of the runners. The first one (1-Z) should be the month and the second one (0-9) is the year (added to the 10/20/whatever in the bottom corner).
After building some Volks Five Star Stories kits (which I love for the record), any issues that I had with the Sinanju are just non existent now lol. The amount of work you DON'T have to do with a Gunpla compared to other models is crazy.
I've been getting into jets myself and sometimes you get a bad kit. Not a sinanju or zeta bad kit, but an actual bad kit. Like none of the parts fit together and the kit is 50% putty kind of bad and you need to sculpt the kit yourself and then rescribe half of the details, great fun really.
Even table top like to make a less then 20 part tank you need glue and need to paint and your need to do all that with dozen or so other vehicles that came with the box if you want to play the game... Gunpla you don't need glue or paint and I don't think their is a game to it so you only ever need to assemle 1 Gunpla and you have all you've paid for. And I just described an easy assemle requided model and there are far worse model then Gunpla ever had parts wise in Table top for one model.
I definitely share the same sentiments as you. I love these as models. I don’t play with them. I find a pose I like and move on to the next cause I know when I used to play with them they never held up. (Rip my MG Zeta 2.0 which arm torn off when I turned it one day after constantly transforming it.) As models there are a lot of advancements that I enjoy more too like kits that don’t have those rubbery ball joints. I find that the friction of plastic on plastic helps keep poses much more longer than a rubber ball joint.
Good stuff. I did encounter genuine issues on some of the RGs I own, like I don't know if it's just for me, but the lower cockpit part on the astray just didn't hold, it fell off without even touching it, this one I actually fixed with a magnet, which you can't see, I drilled through the inner frame, but ended re-enforcing it. I did this on some HG parts as well. The other issue I have found over the years, there's fake complains, some are 100% on the model builder, like with several kits, you have parts not fitting properly and I own the mini, it's fine on my, I just know he didn't do the work correctly. Some kits were called a disaster, I build them, they're fine. Now some kits, can't be fixed, they're just too heavy (many MGs & some PGs), there's kits like the Barbatos Lupus Rex, it's just too heavy, feet don't hold, torso doesn't hold, a base is the only way, the only way to fix it is a revive.
“Not made for children” Ouch... Haha anyways, I got the gundam base injection version and it’s very beautiful. Fixed the waist by inserting some pla plates in the waist(no glue) and mine is fine. But I always want to get another regular one to paint. Thanks for the video Zak! I think a lot of people need to watch this 😅
I really hope they make an rg sinanju 2.0 at some point, looks wise i think this is the best kit with the shiny plastic and the chrome, but the frame and posing issues are horrible
Nice perspective indeed. Need to have proper expectation on what you're buying. I'd say Bandai actually makes the best to cater both worlds(most of the time), but honestly if playability is your biggest concern, then figures, particularly the tamashii nations is always an option. Price is higher of course, but you get what you pay for. Got my sniper Ii anime ver precisely for that.
this is what i need and looking for a long time. I had a sinanju once but it's already sold because i got the gundam base ver and i'll build it with your tricks so the issues won't bother me anymore like the old one. thank you so much for this fixing tutorial zach 👍
I'm not sure if Bandai had reprinted RG Sinanju by the time this video came out. There's been one reprint since blue label and it dropped in 2022, but most of the ones still on the market were red label.
Bought it twice, the first one is now a limp puppet, because I'm playing with it too much, it is a gorgeous kit, the newer one feels a lot nicer, tighter joints and I believe the inner frame made of a better plastic. Planning on painting the old one a zaku green.
I had a very skeptical opinion of the this kit before I bought it. I was of the opinion that, people just like to complain and that maybe the kit just wasn’t AS good as some of the others. Then I got mine. The build was fine. Everything seemed to go together fine. Then a couple months went by. I’m not one to take them down and repose them a ton. Maybe once or twice and that’s about it. But this kit just fell apart over time. Some of the press fit joints just gave up. The knee armor, wrists, hips, the head, etc. Recently I decided to fix it. Glued a bunch of those looser fitting pieces on, no issues. Glued some of those joints in the torso leaving only… I think two of them still mobile. Then, I added some glue to the joint connections, like the hip pegs and arm pegs. Worked fine. Then I just crammed some sticky tack into some of the other crevasses and boom. Solid as a rock now. You can shake the hell out of (and I mean violently) and nothing falls off or loses pose. There’s a reality to this kit being VERY poorly engineered though. That’s real and it effects the kit in ways you can’t just describe away as “it’s not made to be played with.” I don’t personally know any Gunpla hobbyist older than my 6 year old son who “plays” with them. This kit really is just bad out of box. There wouldn’t be a need for tutorials on how to fix it if it weren’t.
I think I am kinda in a grey area in between treating gunpla like models or toys. I love to spend extra time making my gunpla look better, whether that is painting or something like that, but I also love to pose my models, and will often take my models off the shelf to put into a new pose. That’s why when a new kit comes out, I like to watch the review from both you, zak, because u review from the point of view of a modeller and someone who likes to make the model your own, and also mechagaikotsu cuz he reviews from the point of view of someone who just collects a bunch and poses his gunpla often.
this is a very nice content, Zach. Never thought I would love and enjoy this and I would like to see more of it. Never personally own the RG, I've once helped built my friend's and the issues made me avoid that, but after this vid maybe I would add RG sinanju to the future buy bin.
When i wanted to remove the gaudy "gold" coating from HG Akatsuki, i just dipped parts in the cheapest oven cleaner i could find. It did take several hours instead of minutes. But all the coating came off easily with no damage to the plastic.
the RG Sinanju is like the equivalent of transplanting the skeleton of a child into the body of a full grown adult while said child's bones are still developing, it is a horror story lol.
7:00 I'd say there's an even easier way than polishing compound: use a glass file. Specifically, a nail buffer. That leaves the plastic so smooth and shiny that if you're planning on using it for the regular, matte-finisj parts of other kits like your average HG, the recommendation afterwards is to tone the gloss *down* by rubbing the shiny parts with a melamine sponge (such as a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser).
Agree with pretty much everything here After doing a similar waist fix when I built and reviewed last year I found it has been standing in my cabinet without issue Looking forward to see how this finishes zak
Out of the box, I think the RG Sinanju is the most beautiful Real Grade even to date. They absolutely nailed the looks of the Sinanju. I saw the P-Bandai Special Coating version of this and it is even more beautiful than any other kit I saw. The red with the black and gold is just so regal. Too bad it is so finicky under the hood and that is the reason why until now I haven't got one of this
Get amazed by the separate gold parts. Get your glue ready tho to thicken stuff. Get frustrated by that shield. Don't buy the weapon expansion set. It can't hold them well. Tho I didn't break anything, that glossy red plastic is pretty brittle.
I made shield mount little diffrent, without cutting, glueing etc. I grab a part from MS joint runner, the small one I think is the shield mount for MK-II. It has a hinge so u can tilt shield to the side of the arm and a ball joint fit perfectly in a hole of orginal sinanju shield mount. Its work really well for me
Nice! My Dad told me to place a runner piece or something when I built it, to fix the issue I mentioned (the shield leaning the torso to the side thingie) when you asked what could be fixed on this kit, but I am so worried about aestethics and would permanently think that I placed that in there XD. I loved the way you fixed the shield. Might try something alike. Thank you very much! I hope you will post the final product, for us to see. Hugs from Chile
Probably because that’s closer to the anime look. Since they couldn’t really make it full gloss shiny gold when trying to animate it would be my best guess
Just ordered this kit myself and I’m just gonna deal with any nubs to the best of my abilities (I’m personally not that bothered with visible nubs) I am however interested in fixing some of the stability issues. So hoping to get some good tips from this video
I build my first Gundam RG this week, and i was somewhat relieved that it only had two parts of the whole MS Frame system in it, the Wing Gundam TV Ver. A really cool experience!
My lazy nub mark remover is "painting" with a small amount of Tamiya cement. If you're careful and use a pinprick amount, it will melt the plastic and dampen the appearance.
thats right people gotta be reminded that these are MODEL KITS and not TOYS where they can do whatever with it and nothing falls off. even though with all the problems the sinanju kit still looks awesome. the sinanju looks pretty cool with some armor high gloss and some sanded that makes it look flat or matte, i want to do that to one of my kits haha awesome video!
In terms of the nub marks, I just went with a nice careful flush cut and used a light dab of paint to clean up any white left, I may have just got lucky with my cuts though
Silver lining, this kit is supposedly the same scale as the HGUC, but a little more fragile, and because it's literally the same size, you can fit it in the Neo Zeong. But it's ill-advised due to the RG's fragility.
I’ve only had a couple of kits crumple on me overtime without me touching it, I started building when I was 17 around 2014. Both RG zaku and strike gundam leg joint connections split without me touching them, only like once or twice to Pose with or without weapons idle pose. I guess the climate also has something to do with it. Although RG mk2 I guess with the screws made it very sturdy.
Thanks dude! When I moved I lost my MG Sinanju OVA Version. I've been trying to figure out if I'll try to replace it with another MG (maybe even the Native Ver.) or the RG and you're revisitation video definitely gave me some ideas as to what to expect from the RG.
8:20 As someone who watched people build models and then started my self, the cuts you are making with a hobby knife are so controlled and slow that even cutting directly against your thumb, I've never cut myself from an intentional maneuver. Accidents do of course happen but it is no where near as scary as it looks. Also you guys don't need gunprimer brand name stuff, just a common nail buff block will do a good job leaving a matte or gloss finish.
I do still poke myself from time to time. Often right after changing the blade. I think that adjustment in resistance from a dull blade to a super sharp one takes my hands a little time to adjust and that’s where accidents happen
Do you know if they fix the issues with the bigger model kit of this Sinju? I just bought the bigger version and saw your video and was wondering before I start on it if they have the same issues and so I could fix as I go along and also they have a upgraded kit for the model as well with chrome parts and so fourth.
I know of the issue when I built the kit but don't think it is as bad as they made it out to be. I did pretty much the same with the body and arm joints. Just added a few plaplate to block the articulation a little bit and the kit became more rock solid.
My sinanju holds really well and I haven't noticed any issues, I think it's just because I've painted and modified the inner frame, which may have made that hold a bit better somehow? And also because I've got a matte coat which has made the nub marks almost invisible, would recommend. Seems to be the 'stock' kit can't support itself but just because of how cool it is I think it's worth some extra effort and modifying to make it work
Oh man Ive been waiting for this. The rg sinanju has issues especially withthat stupud backpack but if it's treated as a model kit it's perfectly fine. I just left it in a stand and it's still in the same pose I left it in 3 years ago.
I wonder - why settle down for some inserts that wedge into joints (making them unable to move, so defeating the purpose of, well, moving joints) instead of, say, using a clear coat over the loose parts? You can grab the Mr. Hobby Aqueous semi-gloss and apply it over the ball joints (both the socket and the ball) to tighten it and use the rubbery texture it leaves for added friction. :) The aqueous is especially nice for that, because you can use it with a brush or an airbrush and it can be cleaned off the bristle with just water. Sometimes it takes a couple thin layers (I overplayed with my 30 Minute Missions with posing and the wrists got loose very fast), but it works like a charm and can always be re-applied if it wears down over time. :)
For the amount of weight on that joint and the overall surface area of the joint that you could possibly hope to tighten, it’s just not going to be near as stable as actually bracing the joint
04:50 I'm of the same opinion about the definition, but my RG Strike's had a "stupid" issue. build it, posed it and left it for at least a year. got an aftermarket Perfect strike flight unit and noticed the hip joints were all loose, it kept on standing no problem, but after having moved the hips to remove and attach the backpack, the hips were just a loose mess :/ Had to tighten them up a bit with a drip of glue on the joint (when the joint was out), but I was still somewhat disappointed. 11:50 Ovencleaner and other acidic cleaners work decently, takes quite a while and you don't want to breath in the fumes (same goes for the paint, but still).
Some collectors don't even build the kits at all and keep them new in box, some people also buy and trade kits as a hobby, but that's arguably a separate hobby in itself with a focus on gunpla products.
I took some plate from one of the runners and shoved it in the waist joint and filled it with glue and that made my sinanju much better. Also glued the shield bracket to the arm, however the placement of the shield is awkward so posing this thing is still a pain in the ass. Reusing the MK2 frame was this kit's achille's heel.
Would you mind revisiting and doing an in depth review of the rg zephyrantes talking about its issues and also give advice how to fix them its my favourite mecha and i wanna buy it but the back problem is really turning me away from the kit also GREAT VIDEO❤
Hey there! I did review that kit just a couple years ago! Both versions! I didn’t speak so much on how to fix issues but honestly didn’t find much issues with the kits anyway! Honestly they are perfectly fine!
@@ZakuAurelius I have seen your video on the gp01 and saw it again a couple hours ago and you are right but i was wondering if you have a fix for the loose waist or could i just leave it as it is
I actually find the Raser glass file is much better then most glass files as the arrangements of the “teeth” cause it to often leave a shiny smooth surface! Great for high gloss kits!
Hate to be that guy because I know your start up is a rebuttal to the comments on one of your previous videos, but assembly lines can create defective parts. Every so often I encounter an HG for example that has defective ball polycaps. Its actually happened with three or four kits that I've purchased over the last few years. While yes, the build is the same across all of the same model, defects can occur. Edit: Opening rant aside, good video. i appreciate that you got out of your way to show various solutions people can do to fix the flaws in this kit.
You're not wrong about a likely recent decline in quality control over at Bandai Hobby Center Japan. I have received at least 2 kits in the last year with color contamination (a speck of a different color in a part, caused by a pellet of the wrong color plastic getting melted down and shot into the mold) in at least one part, visible on the finished build. I've done some temp work in a plastic injection molding factory, and those runners should have been pulled from the bin during scrap sorting and recycled back into the new EcoPla project before they ever made it to the bagging stations and into the boxes to be shipped. Someone at BHCJ is either getting lazy to rush through production and meet demand, or Bandai, during the new 'blue logo' corporate restructuring, lowered the QC standards for Gunpla. Also, poorly molded polycap runners with nasty mold lines are definitely nothing new. Those molds, specifically the PC-002 runner, have been used literally millions of times at the factory, and probably haven't fit together perfectly flush in about 15 years. You have to remember, the runner for polycaps is in the box of around 85% of HGs. ALL HGs. For any single runner from any other kit they've printed, they've probably printed around 200 PC-002s. The molds are metal, but they still have a service life before the mold halves no longer fit together flush. Sounds like it may be time (or well past time) for them to machine some new PC-002 molds.
I agree regarding the "model" vs "toy" distinction. This is why if I want to build a kit I want to play with, I stick to HGs (IMO the best of both worlds). I get RGs to build and just leave in display in a pose to admire and maybe take pictures of
Awesome idea’s and fixes tbh I always wanted the RG Sinanju but strayed away due to its problems. Definitely gonna try some of the things in this vid out when i get it now!
i just built mine.... i have to f it n glue on the shoulders keep falling off..... the armors all shiny and paint those tubes and head cannons into golden....the heavy shield i just used the stand unused piece to just support it weight n never touch it again....there also nub mark issues on those gloss armors...i confuse so i even bother to sand especially the horn....
@@ZakuAurelius But you always frame it as people “playing” with them too much. Also, there are small differences from kit to kit that come from tiny production issues. Fabrication machines all have tolerance levels. I imagine Bandai’s are very high tolerance, but the same part from two different boxes of the same kit are not going to be 1:1. These small differences lead to different experiences for some folks. Plastic quality can also vary depending on the production run. But you just seem to hand wave these issues away as user error. That said, I much prefer the format of this video to your earlier “myth buster” ones. You framed the latter videos as somehow more definitive than other people’s equally as valid experiences with the same kits.
I’m not hand waving away anything, and sorry if it felt like that. Even if what you’re saying is true about parts not being 1:1, you may be right, but it would have to be like 1:0.999. My point is that it’s so slight that it’s practically insignificant and either way the fixes to any issues the kit has are pretty simple. Therefor it’s unfair to write a kit off entirely as “bad”
On unpainted kits I use high grit sand paper (1500 - 2000) on my final pass before rubbing the part down with a paper towel. The paper towel has just enough abrasiveness to provide a shine that matches the rest of the kit. I haven't tried a glass file, but being stiff I feel like its utility is limited.
I'm way too antsy about heavily sandpapering my kits. I'm always scared I'll permanently discolour the part so a lot of my kits still have cler white marks on them
Really great pov from a actual modeler, that's professional. Not someone who always complaining about stuff like "BAD NUBS" After seeing this I think I should get one and experience myself, looks like a very easy fix. And I really like the matte finish look with yellow sleeve after all the sanding. I might give it a flat coat on mine kit :P
Thank you for this video. It's very highly informative, and I think that's because it comes from a modeller's perspective. I will try these tips out, but I'll keep the chrome. Haha. Looking forward to part 2.
There IS something to be said about molds aging and resulting defects piling up, but well-maintained molds seem to be nigh-immortal and produce results nigh-indistinguishable from early production runs. Bandai doesn't do the GREATEST job maintaining their molds, but, like... they have a LOT of molds... and also they do a good enough job that their reprints of stuff from like the 90s onwards don't seem to exhibit any flash/fitment issues, etc., AND ALSO they don't use their molds all that heavily the way some other companies might, which also helps to preserve their molds. ...and EVEN THEN companies like Hasegawa, that HAVE been producing the same exact VF-1 kit for like 20+ years straight, maintain those molds so well that, again, their modern production runs look and feel pretty much exactly the same as their original runs. (On this particular issue I can personally attest, as I still have an original run kit, unfinished, from all the way back in my middle school days, and comparing it to a recent reprint I purchased, the two kits may as well be identical. You could mix and match parts and there would be nary a difference in the build.) Personally, I remember being confused by all the issues people had with the Sinanju because I never experienced it with my build. It seems to have been common enough, though, that it became... well, common knowledge. That said, a part of me has always wondered if the RG Sinanju's reputation was based on issues that were blown out of proportion, so I appreciate this attempt to look back and dissect the validity of its complaints.
It was blown out of proportion, that’s the negative effect large TH-cam channels can have on the community. Why I always try to keep a fair and positive mind in my reviews
For the most part, I mostly do some chores or repeat some Office or Brooklyn Nine-Nine or Buzzfeed Unsolved video while waiting for paints to dry, that is if I don't have any leftover chores.
@@ZakuAurelius You're welcome Sir. I mostly use bosny so waiting time is mostly short, but I tend to extend it to be sure the paint dries properly. And it's kind of an excuse to watch more. Also, thank you for the tip abouy the Sinanju body frame. I've seen many "fixes" for the ab crunch and for the most part, they are temporary fixes. Supergluing those ab crunches didn't work on me because when the armor plates are placed again, the added weight and probably the smoothness of the joint somehow broke the superglue's hold.
"Not a toy" will never stop me from making sound effects and flying my gundam around the workspace like a jetplane for 3 seconds before I snap back to reality
We need more creators doing content like this! So many people complain about problems with a kit but never do anything to show their viewers how to remedy the problems so they don’t have to deal with it. You’re really ahead of the game when compared to other creators and it’s amazing!
Thanks! Appreciate it
At 27.41. You can use super glue, applying directly. Let the glue flow into the joint. While the glue is curing you then move the joint bact and forth. Do it slow but don't stop until the glue completely dry. The joint is still movable but will be more tight. If it is not tight enough, do it again. I used this technic in many prebulid joints in RG kits.
You are a lifesaver. Thank you for this esoteric knowledge
I did this unconsciously with my broken arm in wing zero RG... What a shock it was, when I realised the arm is in one place, connected again, stiff, and movable...
The HG Shinanju is actually a really sharp looking kit. Certainly one of the better HG kits.
The HG & MG ova version are better overall besides the stickers.
Frankly, I prefer the look of the HGUC Sinanju to the RG, and it's not even very close to me.
it was my first kit and the amount of foil stickers were insane, still a pretty nice kit overall
stickers kill off the satisfaction tho. can be fixed with reverse washing but still
@@stm12p I'd imagine the kit falling apart also kills off the satisfaction too.
I've been looking for content like this for a while which focused more on the experience rather than petty complains and I'm glad you took the initiative to do it.
I built this kit about four months ago. I did some pre build spinal surgery. Tightened up the waist arm and shoulder joints and added some small pieces of plastic inside the waist to give it support. Now the kit can stand freely with everything attached to it.
I’m today years when I found out there’s such a thing as a glass file.
Also can’t thank you enough, I learnt a lot from this.
The softer, nano glass files are literally lifechangers. I barely use regular sanding sponges anymore.
As soon I started using one, I can't imagine NOT having one in my toolbox.
I decided to pick one up as well, it looks promising and will help alot with future kits.
@@Ra3_ar1adnE Be sure to look for a nano glass file that has very low grit. There are coarser ones that woudn't perform as well.
@@AssaultFlamingo how low,like 600 or 400 or 200?
This is the best video explaining the shortcomings and offering solutions to the problems with this ambitious kit. Thank you for not just trashing and ranting about the imperfections that are not impossible to work around. This is gold to me, I have been sitting on this kit for years researching the various ways to make it come together and stay together. You are a gem.
Thanks!
I still have mine that I got probably a year after it released and it still holds well except for the backpack that has a kinda funky connection. I honestly would still recommend it for those in they’re intermediate stage of gunpla collecting
Yes that backpack connection is really strange, it locks ok but if you want to get it out, kind of loose but still kind of connected… but aesthetically, dashing is the word for it
@@kelvin8369 definitely
mine is fine straight built out of the box with no modifications. I just put mine in a standard standing pose and put it on the shelf.
In wood carving we call a cut toward yourself a "pull cut" and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it as long as you are maintaining knife control, usually choked up onto the blade, and using soft even pressure. Your technique is fine. Have loved finding this account and watching through this rich back catalog! Keep up the good work
Thanks man!
I try to cut away from me, but sometimes you just can't get a good angle. I haven't sliced my finger open since carving a pumpkin in the 1990s.
I would say not every model kit can be perfect. Rg line has been an experimental for Bandai before it became the way it is today. Sinanju in overall is a great model if you can fix those issue up and I really enjoy its unique build process.
U can't,the problem is the MK2 frame and loose part
Yah, but bandai spend time and effort for the rg lines maybe lets call this hit and miss.
Being positive doesn’t make the issues go away
I had tighten the joint from beginning to avoid the future hassle. I would only say that it is a model worth spending time on fixing the issue and to enjoy its other better aspect. But that is just my perspective and my joy in building complicated and complex model. My sinanju is still standing up well after all my play and disassembly (to enjoy the inner frame) too.
I think they were testing the concept of reusing molds by adjusting some parts of it, and since it failed, they never tried it again hence why other supposed real grades never came out like goufs(probably base on the zaku frame).
Love this type of content, I wouldn't mind if you made this more of an official series on your channel. Great stuff, screw the naysayers and ignore that noise!
Feedback on this episode has been very positive so far! Thank you
@@ZakuAurelius Your work in progress videos are great fun to watch. I loved watching the trash to treasure or the GBWC WiPs
This is like the most glossy kit ever out of box, i love that finish
My experience of building the RG Sinanju was that it was solid and all the complaints were overblown (or had been resolved before I got my blue label kit) and then I put the backpack on and it turned into a floppy mess. Still looks great, just uh... sorta leans backward onto the wall behind him
Yup you gotta rebalance it with the weapons. It's frustrating.
Zup Zack, great video, One of my first builds, I like it, from a “colector” perspective point of view, I think it looks amazing just the way it is. Love the details on it, and after my experience painting the hg“Stein”, the gold parts are awesome making it a nice straight build. I don’t think I’ll ever try to paint this kit, but would love to see the fallow up of this video, you are amazing, thanks again for the video.
Thanks bro!
love this series!
sometimes its not about the kit, but the builder creativity
That’s half the fun!
I have RG and HGUC Sinanju backordered on HLJ for almost 2-3 weeks. Will probably never get it but never hurts to watch videos likes this
Great vid! Really appreciate that you tackled the problems from both perspectives despite having a "modeler's" bias, particularly when suggesting fixes for the loose joint problems which don't necessarily permanently fix the articulation (because I do like to repose my kits every so often, though I wouldn't say enough to feel like I treat them like toys). Also since you mentioned not knowing when your kit was produced, I believe you can tell that by the two clocks on the back of the runners. The first one (1-Z) should be the month and the second one (0-9) is the year (added to the 10/20/whatever in the bottom corner).
After building some Volks Five Star Stories kits (which I love for the record), any issues that I had with the Sinanju are just non existent now lol. The amount of work you DON'T have to do with a Gunpla compared to other models is crazy.
I've been getting into jets myself and sometimes you get a bad kit. Not a sinanju or zeta bad kit, but an actual bad kit. Like none of the parts fit together and the kit is 50% putty kind of bad and you need to sculpt the kit yourself and then rescribe half of the details, great fun really.
Even table top like to make a less then 20 part tank you need glue and need to paint and your need to do all that with dozen or so other vehicles that came with the box if you want to play the game... Gunpla you don't need glue or paint and I don't think their is a game to it so you only ever need to assemle 1 Gunpla and you have all you've paid for. And I just described an easy assemle requided model and there are far worse model then Gunpla ever had parts wise in Table top for one model.
I definitely share the same sentiments as you. I love these as models. I don’t play with them. I find a pose I like and move on to the next cause I know when I used to play with them they never held up. (Rip my MG Zeta 2.0 which arm torn off when I turned it one day after constantly transforming it.) As models there are a lot of advancements that I enjoy more too like kits that don’t have those rubbery ball joints. I find that the friction of plastic on plastic helps keep poses much more longer than a rubber ball joint.
Good stuff. I did encounter genuine issues on some of the RGs I own, like I don't know if it's just for me, but the lower cockpit part on the astray just didn't hold, it fell off without even touching it, this one I actually fixed with a magnet, which you can't see, I drilled through the inner frame, but ended re-enforcing it. I did this on some HG parts as well.
The other issue I have found over the years, there's fake complains, some are 100% on the model builder, like with several kits, you have parts not fitting properly and I own the mini, it's fine on my, I just know he didn't do the work correctly. Some kits were called a disaster, I build them, they're fine. Now some kits, can't be fixed, they're just too heavy (many MGs & some PGs), there's kits like the Barbatos Lupus Rex, it's just too heavy, feet don't hold, torso doesn't hold, a base is the only way, the only way to fix it is a revive.
“Not made for children”
Ouch...
Haha anyways, I got the gundam base injection version and it’s very beautiful. Fixed the waist by inserting some pla plates in the waist(no glue) and mine is fine.
But I always want to get another regular one to paint.
Thanks for the video Zak! I think a lot of people need to watch this 😅
I really hope they make an rg sinanju 2.0 at some point, looks wise i think this is the best kit with the shiny plastic and the chrome, but the frame and posing issues are horrible
Nice perspective indeed. Need to have proper expectation on what you're buying. I'd say Bandai actually makes the best to cater both worlds(most of the time), but honestly if playability is your biggest concern, then figures, particularly the tamashii nations is always an option. Price is higher of course, but you get what you pay for.
Got my sniper Ii anime ver precisely for that.
this is what i need and looking for a long time. I had a sinanju once but it's already sold because i got the gundam base ver and i'll build it with your tricks so the issues won't bother me anymore like the old one. thank you so much for this fixing tutorial zach 👍
I own this kit too and at the very most, the waist problems were the ones I've had to deal with. Appreciate the tips on that one, thank you!
I'm not sure if Bandai had reprinted RG Sinanju by the time this video came out. There's been one reprint since blue label and it dropped in 2022, but most of the ones still on the market were red label.
Oh man, ive been waiting for a video like this for a while, really glad ur making it since the rg sinanju is beautiful
Bought it twice, the first one is now a limp puppet, because I'm playing with it too much, it is a gorgeous kit, the newer one feels a lot nicer, tighter joints and I believe the inner frame made of a better plastic. Planning on painting the old one a zaku green.
Really great in depth video about this RG kit. Just shows Gundpla is an art form.
I had a very skeptical opinion of the this kit before I bought it. I was of the opinion that, people just like to complain and that maybe the kit just wasn’t AS good as some of the others.
Then I got mine. The build was fine. Everything seemed to go together fine. Then a couple months went by. I’m not one to take them down and repose them a ton. Maybe once or twice and that’s about it. But this kit just fell apart over time. Some of the press fit joints just gave up. The knee armor, wrists, hips, the head, etc.
Recently I decided to fix it. Glued a bunch of those looser fitting pieces on, no issues. Glued some of those joints in the torso leaving only… I think two of them still mobile.
Then, I added some glue to the joint connections, like the hip pegs and arm pegs. Worked fine.
Then I just crammed some sticky tack into some of the other crevasses and boom. Solid as a rock now. You can shake the hell out of (and I mean violently) and nothing falls off or loses pose.
There’s a reality to this kit being VERY poorly engineered though. That’s real and it effects the kit in ways you can’t just describe away as “it’s not made to be played with.” I don’t personally know any Gunpla hobbyist older than my 6 year old son who “plays” with them. This kit really is just bad out of box. There wouldn’t be a need for tutorials on how to fix it if it weren’t.
This content is gold. Personally I don't care much since I scratchbuild and modify but these basic fixes are always appreciated.
My favorite video so far you should do more “how to’s” or I guess your process videos like this one thanks for all the tips helped alot
I think I am kinda in a grey area in between treating gunpla like models or toys. I love to spend extra time making my gunpla look better, whether that is painting or something like that, but I also love to pose my models, and will often take my models off the shelf to put into a new pose. That’s why when a new kit comes out, I like to watch the review from both you, zak, because u review from the point of view of a modeller and someone who likes to make the model your own, and also mechagaikotsu cuz he reviews from the point of view of someone who just collects a bunch and poses his gunpla often.
this is a very nice content, Zach.
Never thought I would love and enjoy this and I would like to see more of it.
Never personally own the RG, I've once helped built my friend's and the issues made me avoid that, but after this vid maybe I would add RG sinanju to the future buy bin.
When i wanted to remove the gaudy "gold" coating from HG Akatsuki, i just dipped parts in the cheapest oven cleaner i could find. It did take several hours instead of minutes. But all the coating came off easily with no damage to the plastic.
Great style of video, I was staying away from this build, but I’ll pick one up now that I know the deal
the RG Sinanju is like the equivalent of transplanting the skeleton of a child into the body of a full grown adult while said child's bones are still developing, it is a horror story lol.
Holy Shit that's scary
another example: trying to use suv body on sedan car chassis.
7:00 I'd say there's an even easier way than polishing compound: use a glass file. Specifically, a nail buffer. That leaves the plastic so smooth and shiny that if you're planning on using it for the regular, matte-finisj parts of other kits like your average HG, the recommendation afterwards is to tone the gloss *down* by rubbing the shiny parts with a melamine sponge (such as a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser).
I wouldn't mind getting a RG Sinanju but I just love the HG Version even if it has lots of stickers
Agree with pretty much everything here
After doing a similar waist fix when I built and reviewed last year I found it has been standing in my cabinet without issue
Looking forward to see how this finishes zak
It’s dope that your supporting smaller artists.
They reached out to me 😅 But happy to help!
@@ZakuAurelius either way it’s cool.
Out of the box, I think the RG Sinanju is the most beautiful Real Grade even to date. They absolutely nailed the looks of the Sinanju. I saw the P-Bandai Special Coating version of this and it is even more beautiful than any other kit I saw. The red with the black and gold is just so regal. Too bad it is so finicky under the hood and that is the reason why until now I haven't got one of this
Glad this came out. Ive been wanting to get this kit but the problems I've heard about have been holding me back so hopefully this helps.
Get amazed by the separate gold parts.
Get your glue ready tho to thicken stuff.
Get frustrated by that shield.
Don't buy the weapon expansion set. It can't hold them well.
Tho I didn't break anything, that glossy red plastic is pretty brittle.
@@wulf8889 holy shit I hated the shield so much and the weak waist joint isn't helping either.
I made shield mount little diffrent, without cutting, glueing etc. I grab a part from MS joint runner, the small one I think is the shield mount for MK-II. It has a hinge so u can tilt shield to the side of the arm and a ball joint fit perfectly in a hole of orginal sinanju shield mount. Its work really well for me
Nice! My Dad told me to place a runner piece or something when I built it, to fix the issue I mentioned (the shield leaning the torso to the side thingie) when you asked what could be fixed on this kit, but I am so worried about aestethics and would permanently think that I placed that in there XD. I loved the way you fixed the shield. Might try something alike. Thank you very much! I hope you will post the final product, for us to see. Hugs from Chile
The yellow plastic is surprisingly good
You say RG MK2 was a Good RG gave me some relief. I have a RG MK2 right next to my laptop. I am going to build it after the Gerbrera-Tetra HG.
This looks surprisingly good with yellow sleeves markings instead of gold
Probably because that’s closer to the anime look. Since they couldn’t really make it full gloss shiny gold when trying to animate it would be my best guess
Just ordered this kit myself and I’m just gonna deal with any nubs to the best of my abilities (I’m personally not that bothered with visible nubs) I am however interested in fixing some of the stability issues. So hoping to get some good tips from this video
enjoy this topic from the start to the end. Great video zack!
Part of me does appreciate that it uses a gundam frame, that is cannon. But it sacrifices stability.
I do not know if it is worth it.
Didn't finish the video yet, but what an awesome subject, keep at it Zack
Love these kind of videos!
"one of the worst RG's out there"
*me looking at my RG Sinanju kit I just bought...*
🤦
Been looking forward to this!
I build my first Gundam RG this week, and i was somewhat relieved that it only had two parts of the whole MS Frame system in it, the Wing Gundam TV Ver. A really cool experience!
That's a good kit!
Hey Zack, would thickening the shoulder pegs the arms plug into with some glue help stabilise the arms and stop them from dropping under their weight?
Great video once again zaku glad your giving rg sinaju justice and not completely crapping on it 👍
19:02 - Gotta say, the yellow Sleeves designs look pretty cool.
My lazy nub mark remover is "painting" with a small amount of Tamiya cement. If you're careful and use a pinprick amount, it will melt the plastic and dampen the appearance.
thats right people gotta be reminded that these are MODEL KITS and not TOYS where they can do whatever with it and nothing falls off. even though with all the problems the sinanju kit still looks awesome. the sinanju looks pretty cool with some armor high gloss and some sanded that makes it look flat or matte, i want to do that to one of my kits haha awesome video!
No, they're toys.
Or better yet, using them to play is totally allowed by their engineering.
In terms of the nub marks, I just went with a nice careful flush cut and used a light dab of paint to clean up any white left, I may have just got lucky with my cuts though
Silver lining, this kit is supposedly the same scale as the HGUC, but a little more fragile, and because it's literally the same size, you can fit it in the Neo Zeong. But it's ill-advised due to the RG's fragility.
I’ve only had a couple of kits crumple on me overtime without me touching it, I started building when I was 17 around 2014. Both RG zaku and strike gundam leg joint connections split without me touching them, only like once or twice to Pose with or without weapons idle pose. I guess the climate also has something to do with it. Although RG mk2 I guess with the screws made it very sturdy.
Thanks dude! When I moved I lost my MG Sinanju OVA Version. I've been trying to figure out if I'll try to replace it with another MG (maybe even the Native Ver.) or the RG and you're revisitation video definitely gave me some ideas as to what to expect from the RG.
8:20
As someone who watched people build models and then started my self, the cuts you are making with a hobby knife are so controlled and slow that even cutting directly against your thumb, I've never cut myself from an intentional maneuver.
Accidents do of course happen but it is no where near as scary as it looks.
Also you guys don't need gunprimer brand name stuff, just a common nail buff block will do a good job leaving a matte or gloss finish.
I do still poke myself from time to time. Often right after changing the blade. I think that adjustment in resistance from a dull blade to a super sharp one takes my hands a little time to adjust and that’s where accidents happen
Do you know if they fix the issues with the bigger model kit of this Sinju? I just bought the bigger version and saw your video and was wondering before I start on it if they have the same issues and so I could fix as I go along and also they have a upgraded kit for the model as well with chrome parts and so fourth.
Ive been waiting for this
That yellow looks surprisingly good with the rest of this kit. If this was a cheaper kit, I'd probably buy a second one to display like that
I'm surprised the Gold is actually molded in Yellow.
I built the HG Akatsuki and it's Black under the gold.
I know of the issue when I built the kit but don't think it is as bad as they made it out to be. I did pretty much the same with the body and arm joints. Just added a few plaplate to block the articulation a little bit and the kit became more rock solid.
Gotta say, without the gloss and the chrome the kit looks incredibly handsome
Indeed!
My sinanju holds really well and I haven't noticed any issues, I think it's just because I've painted and modified the inner frame, which may have made that hold a bit better somehow? And also because I've got a matte coat which has made the nub marks almost invisible, would recommend. Seems to be the 'stock' kit can't support itself but just because of how cool it is I think it's worth some extra effort and modifying to make it work
Oh man Ive been waiting for this. The rg sinanju has issues especially withthat stupud backpack but if it's treated as a model kit it's perfectly fine. I just left it in a stand and it's still in the same pose I left it in 3 years ago.
Even after all it’s faults I still enjoyed this build, now after seeing these fixes I would like to try it out
I wonder - why settle down for some inserts that wedge into joints (making them unable to move, so defeating the purpose of, well, moving joints) instead of, say, using a clear coat over the loose parts?
You can grab the Mr. Hobby Aqueous semi-gloss and apply it over the ball joints (both the socket and the ball) to tighten it and use the rubbery texture it leaves for added friction. :) The aqueous is especially nice for that, because you can use it with a brush or an airbrush and it can be cleaned off the bristle with just water.
Sometimes it takes a couple thin layers (I overplayed with my 30 Minute Missions with posing and the wrists got loose very fast), but it works like a charm and can always be re-applied if it wears down over time. :)
For the amount of weight on that joint and the overall surface area of the joint that you could possibly hope to tighten, it’s just not going to be near as stable as actually bracing the joint
04:50
I'm of the same opinion about the definition, but my RG Strike's had a "stupid" issue.
build it, posed it and left it for at least a year.
got an aftermarket Perfect strike flight unit and noticed the hip joints were all loose, it kept on standing no problem, but after having moved the hips to remove and attach the backpack, the hips were just a loose mess :/
Had to tighten them up a bit with a drip of glue on the joint (when the joint was out), but I was still somewhat disappointed.
11:50
Ovencleaner and other acidic cleaners work decently, takes quite a while and you don't want to breath in the fumes (same goes for the paint, but still).
Not a toy, sure. Problem with this kit is that it FAILED at even being posed & left alone. Might as well get the HG, at least it was stable.
Thanks for the in-depth nub cleaning, even though I've built a lot of kits I'm still rough on the nub department.
Some collectors don't even build the kits at all and keep them new in box, some people also buy and trade kits as a hobby, but that's arguably a separate hobby in itself with a focus on gunpla products.
I took some plate from one of the runners and shoved it in the waist joint and filled it with glue and that made my sinanju much better. Also glued the shield bracket to the arm, however the placement of the shield is awkward so posing this thing is still a pain in the ass.
Reusing the MK2 frame was this kit's achille's heel.
Would you mind revisiting and doing an in depth review of the rg zephyrantes talking about its issues and also give advice how to fix them its my favourite mecha and i wanna buy it but the back problem is really turning me away from the kit also GREAT VIDEO❤
Hey there! I did review that kit just a couple years ago! Both versions! I didn’t speak so much on how to fix issues but honestly didn’t find much issues with the kits anyway! Honestly they are perfectly fine!
@@ZakuAurelius I have seen your video on the gp01 and saw it again a couple hours ago and you are right but i was wondering if you have a fix for the loose waist or could i just leave it as it is
This is also the same issue with back heavy kits, the juice gundam is a good example, i had to get a stand for it
I actually find the Raser glass file is much better then most glass files as the arrangements of the “teeth” cause it to often leave a shiny smooth surface! Great for high gloss kits!
Hate to be that guy because I know your start up is a rebuttal to the comments on one of your previous videos, but assembly lines can create defective parts. Every so often I encounter an HG for example that has defective ball polycaps. Its actually happened with three or four kits that I've purchased over the last few years. While yes, the build is the same across all of the same model, defects can occur.
Edit: Opening rant aside, good video. i appreciate that you got out of your way to show various solutions people can do to fix the flaws in this kit.
You're not wrong about a likely recent decline in quality control over at Bandai Hobby Center Japan. I have received at least 2 kits in the last year with color contamination (a speck of a different color in a part, caused by a pellet of the wrong color plastic getting melted down and shot into the mold) in at least one part, visible on the finished build. I've done some temp work in a plastic injection molding factory, and those runners should have been pulled from the bin during scrap sorting and recycled back into the new EcoPla project before they ever made it to the bagging stations and into the boxes to be shipped. Someone at BHCJ is either getting lazy to rush through production and meet demand, or Bandai, during the new 'blue logo' corporate restructuring, lowered the QC standards for Gunpla.
Also, poorly molded polycap runners with nasty mold lines are definitely nothing new. Those molds, specifically the PC-002 runner, have been used literally millions of times at the factory, and probably haven't fit together perfectly flush in about 15 years. You have to remember, the runner for polycaps is in the box of around 85% of HGs. ALL HGs. For any single runner from any other kit they've printed, they've probably printed around 200 PC-002s. The molds are metal, but they still have a service life before the mold halves no longer fit together flush. Sounds like it may be time (or well past time) for them to machine some new PC-002 molds.
I agree regarding the "model" vs "toy" distinction. This is why if I want to build a kit I want to play with, I stick to HGs (IMO the best of both worlds). I get RGs to build and just leave in display in a pose to admire and maybe take pictures of
Awesome idea’s and fixes tbh
I always wanted the RG Sinanju but strayed away due to its problems. Definitely gonna try some of the things in this vid out when i get it now!
With a bit of love this kit can be really good
I’m building it rn it’s not bad please shut up I’m enjoying it and it looks sick asf
i just built mine.... i have to f it n glue on the shoulders keep falling off..... the armors all shiny and paint those tubes and head cannons into golden....the heavy shield i just used the stand unused piece to just support it weight n never touch it again....there also nub mark issues on those gloss armors...i confuse so i even bother to sand especially the horn....
“Playing” shouldn’t include “changing the pose once every 6 months” and finding that the kit’s joints have loosened. That should be a normal use case.
Every kit gets lose over time
How bout metal?
Can they get loose too?
@@ZakuAurelius But you always frame it as people “playing” with them too much. Also, there are small differences from kit to kit that come from tiny production issues. Fabrication machines all have tolerance levels. I imagine Bandai’s are very high tolerance, but the same part from two different boxes of the same kit are not going to be 1:1. These small differences lead to different experiences for some folks. Plastic quality can also vary depending on the production run. But you just seem to hand wave these issues away as user error. That said, I much prefer the format of this video to your earlier “myth buster” ones. You framed the latter videos as somehow more definitive than other people’s equally as valid experiences with the same kits.
@@evoltblackhole8677 they wear out even faster because it's metal on metal while also being heavier, and not all metal joint has plastic insert
I’m not hand waving away anything, and sorry if it felt like that. Even if what you’re saying is true about parts not being 1:1, you may be right, but it would have to be like 1:0.999. My point is that it’s so slight that it’s practically insignificant and either way the fixes to any issues the kit has are pretty simple. Therefor it’s unfair to write a kit off entirely as “bad”
great vid, was looking to pick one up soon hopefully.
Looking forward to part 2. Cheers!
On unpainted kits I use high grit sand paper (1500 - 2000) on my final pass before rubbing the part down with a paper towel. The paper towel has just enough abrasiveness to provide a shine that matches the rest of the kit. I haven't tried a glass file, but being stiff I feel like its utility is limited.
I'm way too antsy about heavily sandpapering my kits. I'm always scared I'll permanently discolour the part so a lot of my kits still have cler white marks on them
Really great pov from a actual modeler, that's professional. Not someone who always complaining about stuff like "BAD NUBS"
After seeing this I think I should get one and experience myself, looks like a very easy fix. And I really like the matte finish look with yellow sleeve after all the sanding. I might give it a flat coat on mine kit :P
Definitely! I always preferred the yellow over gold, and not keen on the high gloss red 😬
I think the yellow looks better than the gold. Reminds me of sazabi. And I also think it looks better flat coated.
It's bizarre to me that Bandai insist on using the Chrome Gold when the Hyaku-Shiki 2.0 has the best Gold.
In the anime Sinanju is animated in 2D style so yellow emblem sorta works well. I done painted my HG Sinanju with yellow gundam marker.
@@UVAmatsuo yea why not set that as the standard of they are doing gold plating? That would look a lot better.
Thank you for this video. It's very highly informative, and I think that's because it comes from a modeller's perspective. I will try these tips out, but I'll keep the chrome. Haha. Looking forward to part 2.
There IS something to be said about molds aging and resulting defects piling up, but well-maintained molds seem to be nigh-immortal and produce results nigh-indistinguishable from early production runs. Bandai doesn't do the GREATEST job maintaining their molds, but, like... they have a LOT of molds... and also they do a good enough job that their reprints of stuff from like the 90s onwards don't seem to exhibit any flash/fitment issues, etc., AND ALSO they don't use their molds all that heavily the way some other companies might, which also helps to preserve their molds.
...and EVEN THEN companies like Hasegawa, that HAVE been producing the same exact VF-1 kit for like 20+ years straight, maintain those molds so well that, again, their modern production runs look and feel pretty much exactly the same as their original runs. (On this particular issue I can personally attest, as I still have an original run kit, unfinished, from all the way back in my middle school days, and comparing it to a recent reprint I purchased, the two kits may as well be identical. You could mix and match parts and there would be nary a difference in the build.)
Personally, I remember being confused by all the issues people had with the Sinanju because I never experienced it with my build. It seems to have been common enough, though, that it became... well, common knowledge. That said, a part of me has always wondered if the RG Sinanju's reputation was based on issues that were blown out of proportion, so I appreciate this attempt to look back and dissect the validity of its complaints.
It was blown out of proportion, that’s the negative effect large TH-cam channels can have on the community. Why I always try to keep a fair and positive mind in my reviews
For the most part, I mostly do some chores or repeat some Office or Brooklyn Nine-Nine or Buzzfeed Unsolved video while waiting for paints to dry, that is if I don't have any leftover chores.
You’re one of the very few who actually answered the question! Thank you
@@ZakuAurelius You're welcome Sir. I mostly use bosny so waiting time is mostly short, but I tend to extend it to be sure the paint dries properly. And it's kind of an excuse to watch more.
Also, thank you for the tip abouy the Sinanju body frame. I've seen many "fixes" for the ab crunch and for the most part, they are temporary fixes. Supergluing those ab crunches didn't work on me because when the armor plates are placed again, the added weight and probably the smoothness of the joint somehow broke the superglue's hold.