How to Use Self Levelling Compound with Bostik
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มิ.ย. 2016
- Bostik's range of floor levelling compounds.
A complete range of floor self-levelling concrete and resurfacing products.
Floor Levelling Compound - A self-levelling compound for finishing rough or uneven concrete floors.
Cempolatex - Latex modified self-levelling sub-floor compound.
Cempolatex Fibreflex - A highly flexible, fibre-reinforced self-levelling compound.
Cempolatex (2 Pack) - A latex subfloor levelling compound for smoothing uneven internal floors.
Cempolay - Self-levelling compound.
Cempolay Deep - Levels up to 50mm deep in one application.
Cempolay Ultra - Ultra-fast self-levelling compound that you can walk on in just 2 hours!
Find out more at www.bostik.co.uk
Product Overview:
- Self-levelling compound for finishing rough or uneven concrete floors.
- Provides a sound, smooth level base for most types of floor covering.
- Excellent coverage.
- Light foot traffic in 4 hours fast drying
For interior use
Uses: Concrete floors, asphalt and flooring screeds
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#Bostik #Screeding #SelfLevellingScreed
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What about priming the existing floor before leveling?
This man is both terrifying and very knowledgeable.
You damn right hes real good
Bricktops brother 😆
Straight out of a Guy Ritchie film
do it right or do it twice! Or we'll he'll pay you a little visit, you hear?
This dude is the real Pale Rider!
I wish I'd watched this before starting my job! Good video, thanks.
Those spiked rollers put a real good shine to the floor nice vid mate
Nice product awareness video. What I would have like to see come after is an in depth series describing and showing the whole process from beginning to end, for each product. By in depth I mean: what pitfalls to watch out for, the examination of the substrate or slap, more in depth explanation of the whole process, per product.
This gentleman answered to my problem, you have a brilliant idea.
Thanks Roger, very useful tips.
I found by trowelling you’ll get a ridge even if it looks smooth when you do it. Apparently, a spiked roller sorts that issue.
Roger, that was excellent! Thank you so much for a simple and informative breakdown on various products and their application.
Thanks Martin. It is a sponsored video but we think it has some useful information in there and is not just an advert.
+Skill Builder
Yes, I understand that. The information is useful and a good demo in principle in any case.
I do have one request. Could you do a video or two on concrete staining. I'm fascinated by the lustrous and creative finishes seen on TH-cam when people are staining slab concrete floors. However, I'm really curious to know if similar finishes could be achieved on cementitious renders, screed or levelling products. Or on cement fibre boards.
fibreflex over old timber floor- just what i need, thanks!
What were your results?
What if you need to do maintenance under the floor? New heating or run wires etc? Cheers
When i was a floorlayer/carpet fitter,have laid tonnes of latex/screed...it's one of the jobs i really enjoyed doing :-)
Very useful! Thank you
excellent job with the vids
Thanks for that very nice and clear and useful video xxx
Very nice so good job and thanks
Great video buddy
I have a crack in my concrete floor, runs about a 2 foot long, 4-8mm deep. It's just inside the bedroom door as you enter, then the rest of the floor slopes down away from it. I't preventing me from laying a wooden floor in the bedroom, 20 square meters. My question is. Can I use levelling compound to create a long gentle slope, from where the crack steps down. or do i have to fill up the entire room to be level with the upper crack? I can't lower the high spot because I want to run the floor in from the hall.
Hi Roger,
Doing a large room with between 0-3cm of irregularity. It's a clean, dust free sealed wooden floor. I have cleaned it and then put down a PVA adhering seal on the wood. I'll be using the compound with fibres.
Questions.
Do you allow for expansion at the edges? (ie) soft/mousse perimeter?
Would you recommend going in on spiked shoes and a long handled spiked roller?
For a big room how to work as the compound goes off but new batches need pored? Even with a helper the batches take time to get mixed up.
Thanks, Mark
Hi Roger, great video but I notice you don't include cempolay ultra, I have used on an uneven concete floor which worked well but I now want to use on a panted concreted floor but bostik tech line said you can't use on painted surface, would you agree? If so can you recommend anything I can use for internal domestic use that can be used as a final surface that cab then be painted as with cempolay ultra?
The reason to use a self leveling is to not get down on your hands and knees and use a trowel. In the US all but the smallest leveling projects are done using a pump. However even for a small or DYI project, it does not make sense to trowel, which defeats the capabilities of the material itself. Smoothers are tools that are specific to floor leveling that look like plaster knives at the end of a broom handle - sometimes they have spacer nubs on the blade to get a predetermined fixed thickness ( not always good for a floor that needs a variable thickness of leveler). For thicknesses up to a 1/4" (6 mm) spiked rollers, also called porcupine rollers, work very well. Much beyond that thickness though the roller may leave dimples in the surface of the leveling compound.
Bostik are tile people trying to figure out self leveling. Tile people are used to troweling everything.
Silly advice the trowel is there not to smooth but to spread the compound and push it into corners etc. You then let it level itself or use a spiked roller if you desire.
BOOOOOOORRRRRIINNNGG!!!!
My God, you could talk a glass eye to sleep, your soo bori😴 💤
It would be useful to have a better explanation nof which product to use in different sitiations. Over existing thermoplastic or vinyl tiles, for example and mixed substrates where floors of extensions meet the pre-existing building.
Having surveyed the usual DIY discussion boards there are a lot of people who have old thermoplastic tiles stuck down with bitumen, all wondering whether to lift the tiles and if so then how to remove / prime the bitumen in order to lay SLC / tiles / vinyl.
Do you recommend these products as substrate for epoxy resin floor application?,. God Bless!
Nice product
Can I use this on an outside patio if I box it in?
How do you deal with soor thresholds? How do you stop the compound from going into other rooms damaging carpet etc? Presumably you use a barrier of some sort strip wood etc?
Hi Ive got a concrete workshop floor and the surface was not very hard (dusted up and was quite soft). a hardener was applied to the floor (Everbuild 403 CONCRETE HARDENER & DUSTPROOFER) which worked, stoping the dust and strengthened the surface. Although harder wearing now it isnt very smooth or level so before I kitted the workshop out i was going to use CEMPOLAY Ultra strong to finish and create a final wear surface. do you think this will be ok after the use of a silicate hardener and if so would i need to use an acrylic sealer or similar first before i lay the compound?
Your videos are more polished every time I watch. Amazing audio! May I ask what mic set up are you using.
Great lighting and editing too. Thank you.
Thanks. Sorry I missed this comment so I am late. We use a Senheiser or sometimes a Rode mic. The videos are made by Motion.uk. I can't claim any credit for that. I worked out a long time ago that it is better to get the professionals in to do the video work.
Thank you for getting back to me. Keep up the great videos and give me a shout if you're ever in Florida
I have a hallway with uneven mosaic ceramic tiles in it (circa 1910) I don't want the hassle of lifting the tiles up would you recommend the cemoplay or cemoplay deep
How many days should we check for this levelling for SPC Vinyl flooring especially crack?
Hello skilled builder. I have Yellow tongue flooring and need to level it before laying a 1200x900mm shower base. Can you please confirm the correct compound to use. Regards Joe
Great video thanks. How about surface preparation do you recommend using a pva treatment first. Like Cementone Rendabond PVA. What dilution ratio for a new concrete floor ?
There are acrylic primers for floors but PVA is not the ideal product. It is OK if it is diluted and soaks in but often is skins over a layer of dust and causes the screed to lift. It is better if the screed material can soak into the concrete.
I like to brush the floor with water before putting the self leveller down. It helps prevent air bubbles but a spiked roller also works.
Love the red cycling top in this video Roger
Oddy enough that is a Snicker Workwear top. I don't think it did well for them. I am a keen cyclist and I often think about wearing an old cycling top to work because they have those handy back pockets. I am surprised Snickers haven't made a version of it.
@@SkillBuilder I saw the name on the shirt, I just wanted to rib you a bit mate. Now come to think about it you do look like a cyclist. Great way to keep fit and get around, I used to cycle a lot when I was younger, I should take it up again to lower the cholesterol. Problem is they are rally disliked on the roads over here. Cheers mate
@@MrJFoster1984 I am lucky enough to live in the Surrey Hills where there are thousands of cyclists out on the weekend. For the most part the motorists are patient and courteous but some cyclists don't help the cause because they are anything but. It is a shame to see every pastime ending up in a tribal war. There is even animosity between some roadies and off-road mountain bikers. The new battle is between e-bikes and those who still choose to use the pedals.
Hi Skill builder, what self leveling compound shall i use to level out on top of bricks with gaps? need to tile on top after.
superb
Hi, I’ve got a first floor bedroom which has sunk in all directions, probably because it’s either missing noggings or maybe spaced at limits which squeaked until I added more screws, I then have added strategically placed hardboard to bring it up and on top of that cereal packet cardboard to even out anomalies. But still have a gap of about 4 mm . As this is isn’t working what floor levelling compound should I use which won’t be too heavy and make it worse , ie sinking further, or have you any other ideas please. Many thanks Adrian
Ps floor is wood beams /conti board floor panels
Recommend two part self leveling for thickness up to 20mm. Which bostik product would be recommended. Have old bitumen etc and adhesive I can't remove
Have you ever used liquid/flow screed ?
Hi Roger I watch your Skill Builder Videos a lot, even saw Robin on the TV recently, they are a great resource for DIYers.
When laying self levelling compounds in a space with a gradient is it best to work from thick to thin or thin to thick (assuming there are exit options at both ends of the gradient. In my case the gradient is probably 10 to 15mm over 10 M, not alot but the floor needs smoothing because it has 3 different screeds of varying quality and the dust from it is awful.
Do you have any advice for priming the screed where tiles laid with bituminous adhesive have been removed.
Cheers
Ian
Hi Ian, did you find an answer to this? I have the same issue. This is a long shot as I see you wrote this 2 years ago!
Thanks Roger 👍
Thank you sir for your good manners
I have some old Lino adhesive in places on the subfloor and cracks.What leveller do you suggest?
Thank you.
Graham
What thickness of floor level variation this product is effective?
Hi Roger.
Im getting mixed opinions from people regarding a project, so thought id run it past you!
I have a 16sqm room that i need to raise by 20mm to make it level with the room next to it (to lay floor tiles throughout). Would you suggest using bostik self levelling or just sand & cement? Ive been told by some people that theyd be worried the self leveling compound may crack over timr at 20mm thickness.
Thanks!
Which one would you recommend for ceramic floor tiles?
Hi i need some advice. I have concrete beams with blocks and wanted to raise the serfice by 15mm and get the floor leveled. Mostly I also need the floor to be demp proof. So what self leveling compound good for demp proofing and can be raised by 15mm? In addition can later be tiled on top or maybe save cost by polishing the floor to give it a nice finish. The compound should be for external use as the part of the surface partly outdoor as well. Any advice will be appreciated.
Thank you.
Hi I have moved my garage and laid concrete over an existing driveway damp is now coming up inside the garage I have removed all items from the garage and jet washed off all the old mould the concrete seems very brittle and dusty in some places there are holes approx 20mm deep where the new concrete has lifted when washing or sweeping I guess there was no damproof membrain used in the old or the new concrete what is the best product for damproofing and leveling the floor please.
Could this be used as a finished floor surface on an outdoor balcony? Can it be sealed/stained/painted?
Can this self leveling compound be polished?
I have a few rooms that are uneven on a concrete slab, and the installer only poured bostik SL175 in a few different spots, should I have them pour it in the entire room to level it out perfectly? Wood floors going in after this so I want it to be perfect!
What happens if you don't mix the product for long enough in the bucket and then pour product over the area we're was needed thank you
Can you use any of these compounds directly on old floor tiles? Cheers
i have a question: can it be applied over Bitumen Rolls ????
Roger great video, whats the roller called and where to purchase thanks
Roger, I have an area of approx 1sq metre to cover. The existing flooring must have had quarry tiles at some point, but what is left , I am really not sure. I need to be able to level the floor in order to install a 450kg Aga. I have been advised that the Aga is likely to weigh less than this, and can quite happily sit on top of paving slabs or a concrete base, dependant upon how much I need to raise the oven up by to worktop level. Do you have any advice? Many thanks
Would one of these products work over sheet vinyl (duradek)? Our deck has some minor settling in a couple places and the low spots hold water from getting to the floor drain. The vinyl deck is in good shape otherwise so I don't really want to rip up the vinyl in order to level. I've found a product that I can use to put a waterproof membrane over the existing Duradek, but now I'm searching for a levelling compound that will work.
What bostik should I use , existing floor is cracked tiles and some uneven. Vinyl to go ontop. Do I need to use primer on the existing tile floors. Ta
Excellent video. I've just had an extension built on the side of the house which has been knocked through to the existing kitchen. The extension has been screeded (65mm) 2 weeks ago and I'd like to get a new kitchen fitted as soon as possible. How long do I need to leave the screed before applying a self levelling compound over the whole lot. I have about 40 sq metres to do in total.
Unfortunately the only safe solution is to allow the screed to dry at the rate of 1mm per day but if you have underfloor heating you can gently warm it up after 28 days of curing. Don't do it before this or it will crack.
What a lot of people do is to fit the kitchen and leave the kick boards off then screed up to the units.
Personally I like to lay a floor wall to wall and then put the units on it.
Can I use any of these over an old vinyl floor?
Can this be used over asbestos vinyl tiles?
Hi. So I’ve a new concrete floor but it’s slightly lower than than existing it’s tying into (5-6mm). The floor is going to get a lot of flight cases on wheels going over as it’s my storage unit. What one here would you recommend and what type of roller is recommend also. Looking to paint it after done as existing. It’s a smooth finish that’s there already thanks
Hi, thanks for the video, very helpful.... Question, I want to lay the fibreflex over my floor boards.. Do I need to fill in between the boards, before laying , and I'd so, what should I use.. Best Regards Mick
Hi Michael. You can use mastic. decorators caulk or expanding foam. Years ago we used to use papier-mache'
Could you tell me how to use Bostik SBR? please thanks.
would Cempolay Deep work well for a top layer re-surface on rough patch for outside on concrete ?
Hi there don’t mean to be a pain as I do like to watch the videos I watched this and should suggest you maybe add the fact you should in most cases you should be using a primer pre use of the levelling compound! And have never talked to a compound supplier that doesn’t recommend it in most scenarios!
Elegant video Roger - I'll be looking for others you've made now. Which product do you like for pouring over pavers, where the mortar between is up to 10mm down, and I'm trying to level a fall of around 15mm across the whole floor (room approx 20 x 15 ft)? It was previously an external floor, now internal, if that makes a difference to the product. I can comfortably raise the floor by 25mm from the highest point, if multiple pours are necessary?
Thanks for the comment. The job you are describing is interesting. I assume that there is no damp. If there is then a lot of self levellers will be a problem and you need to think about painting a liquid damp proof membrane over the whole lot. It depends on what you are going to use as the finished floor.
I would not use a self leveller for this job because it costs £15.00 to £20.00 per bag. That said you can bulk the deep lay products out with sharp sand.
My approach would be to lay down a mix of 3 parts screeding sand and 1 part cement. Throw a few hand fulls of chopped fibres (from Selco) into the mix so it binds it together and pour some SBR into the mixing water.
Try not to make it too wet otherwise it will puddle.
Trowel it down and make the area up with a spirit level.
Use a urethane float in a circular motion to make it flat.
If the surface is not good enough when you are done you can then pour a latex self leveller over the whole floor but you will need to let it cure and dry first.
Thank you very much for the detailed reply - there IS the possibility of damp, and I had not factored that in! You may have saved me from a costly (and worse, labour intensive) mistake.
Your suggested approach is quite a good idea - I'll give that some thought. Thanks again.
Roger is an OBE to a DIYer's TH-cam
Nice video but a very critical OMISSION! You must FIRST seal all gaps between the floor and walls and caulk all the gaps between the floor boards! Otherwise the leveler will pour through the gaps!
Very informative and interesting video. I’ve got a very poor but stable quarry tiled floor that I guess would require up to 20mm screed to fill in from bottom to cover the entire floor, what product would you recommend to fill this in one go? Then would you suggest a self levelling latex to bring the floor to very flat for an LVT tile like Karndene or Amtico. I’ve checked and BS 8203 allows for 3mm gap over 2m straight edge, if there is more than this will it cause problems?
That is a good job That wot you are doing today Ronnie
Hi, I'm wondering what you decided to use in the end and how it worked out? I have the same floor - very irregular stone flags in a cellar. Not too fussed about the final surface being perfect, just need it flat enough that I can move heavy things on wheels around smoothly
I always pilot where I’m screwing otherwise the screws will lift the board making you take it out and back in.Wood clue is the same as PVA.And nails are no good on floors good job Rodger👍🏻
Hi there... I want to level. my kitchen floor I have wooden floor board sitting on concrete and on some parts of the floorboard there are old vinyl tiles stuck down.. I don't want the work to remove them. Would any your self levelling cover this? also I reckon it would need to be about a half inch thick. cheers
oops I missed it you do include cempolay ultra... Any advise on using over a painted concrete surface (internal domestic)
They always advise not to do it because the paint will lift. I would scutch it up a . I use a diamond disc.
self levelling but what's all the float work? just spreading?
Skill builder I have just put down a latex compound on my floor do I need to cover it with anything like a sealent like pva or something.
No sealant needed, it will skin on the top and weaken the bond
All very well if room is empty but how do you do it in a kitchen with fitted units and then recover with vinyl flooring.?
You need to remove the plinth or kickboards. Pull them off with a window sucker . They will need trimming.
What is the best product to use on leveling the corner of a room in a wood frame and wood floor apartment building (second floor). The dip is about 3-4cm deep and the building is 40 years old. Total area that requires treatment is about 5 square meters.
A laex based screed with tiny chopped fibres will be best for that job. If you can't find it then buy some tiny chopped fibres and put them in the water.
Wonder if you can help - Would this be usable to level depressions on a flat roof prior to recovering ? The fall is nominal
You could do it but it depends on how much movement there is on the deck.
I am guessing it is plywood and it has sunk due to moisture coming from trapped vapour in the roof space or a leak. The deck should be well supported and it is better to have a fall if you can.
You can buy insulation to put on top which has a fall in it and you then felt over the to. If I were you I would look at a fibre glass roof.
How long does it take to dry out on average
might be a stupid question but why use a float or roller when the product is supposed to be self levelling where the operative term is 'self'?
Hi Roger, I have a veranda which has been covered in bitumen for years and painted over with silver paint, it has a number of channels in it where it was laid badly, can I use any of these products to fill these. Thank you
Yes I think it should adhere. Myabe use the fibre reinforced product
Do you have a product for external use?
With the cemplotex 1 pack what type of roller do you use is it just standard 1 for painting ? And do you roll it straight after trowelling ?
It is a spiked roller for self levelling screed. You can get them on ebay.
sorry for the delay TH-cam notification not working well
how would this product work on a partical board sub floor ? would extra steps be likely?
Get ride of the particle board, I don't know any flooring manufactures who recommend laying over particle board as it's too prone to water damage, swelling, rotting, etc. In short, it's a cheap horrible product.
Great video Roger, Ive just built a large 3mx4m Shed / Workshop with a concrete base floor. Im going to be fitting pvc click tiles and want to level the floor. As the concrete has the original screeding marks about 2mm-3mm deep in places what floor leveller would you reccomend?
You also said the original floor doesnt need a sealer?
Can someone please tell me why you still need to level if it is “self levelling”!
What would you reccomend to level a vynol floor?
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Great very informative local stockist info would be good
I want to screed over tiles to lay vinyl floor covering, but don't want to add much more depth to the floor. Can I skim just enough to cover the grout area which is going to be around 1 to 2 millimetres?
I think you need to let the screed settle out to cover the tiles as well as the grout dips but it should still allow you a minimal depth of say 2 mm. I would not try and push your luck by scrapping it too hard off the tile face because the tile pattern will telegraph through. Go with the flow.
Hello great video!! One question, am i able to go straight over CaberDek p5 ? If so which cemoplay would you recommend. Many thanks 🙏
Use a fibre reinforced screed. It could be Cempolay or another make. You may need to prime the floor first. It takes a few minutes to brush a primer on and about 1 hour to dry.
Skill Builder nice one . Thank you 😊
Great video but alway remember to protect any copper pipes from the leveler. As these products are cement based, cement corrodes copper.
trying to level a bathroom concrete floor that was painted with a latex cement paint. Which product and any special prep needed.
If the paint is well on there you might be able to go straight over with a latex screed. If it looks like it is flaking then it is best to scuff it up so you get some key back onto bare concrete. How far out of level is it? Is it just a bit lumpy
what do you do if the drywall doesn't come all the way down to the plywood subfloor? and in doorways with carpet on the other side?
Teresa Redelman use a foam tape to go around the room and then caulk it to prevent any seepage
Do you not need to seal holes and gaps in floor boards? Surely it will drain through any opening whilst it is still liquid?
Yes run a bit of mastic down or push some polythene strips down in the cracks.
Stupid question time.....
I have a very uneven concrete slab . I need something thinner than a screed but thicker than self levelling. Can I mix a screed to almost normal consistency, but use self levelling instead of water. And lay to a thickness somewhere between the two. Have also thought about using sbr with/ instead of water, in screed mix. But only 25 to 35 mm thick
Hi, I need to level the wooden floor in the bathroom I've sealed the floor with pva can I put leveling compound on this
Yes but it has to be the stuff with fibres in it
I am looking for an elusive product to level out and fill gaps in a very large wooden floor in a scout hut. It must be fully flexible and not crack or break. The floor has had boards lifted and put back down, had damage to the edges, are cracked etc but it only has to last a couple of years until we can raise funds to rebuild the entire building. I have laid floors before so know pretty much what I am doing.
Any suggestions?
Bob
If I were you I'd screw down some tongue and groove boards (the kind you'd use in a loft) and stick laminate or vinyl flooring over the top of that. It should last a couple of years, be flexible and with that kind of finish, be easy to clean, and pretty inexpensive to install. Best of all, it will be easy to take up when you do the refurb - access to the sub floor might be important for that and a filler compound would only make that a much messier job.
Great video. But what sense does it make to put this stuff on a timber floor. Such a floor will inevitably have wires and pipes under the boards which some day will need attention. Then you'll have to smash thru this self levelling stuff to get at them.
youtischia
You are right to question the sense of it but in the building industry we are contstantly covering and uncovering. It is easy enough to run a carbide blade through this or even a diamond on a circular saw to create a trap
youtischia yes you are completely right in what you are saying...generally we would usually install a 6mm ply board to the floor first which will be fixed with flooring grade staples,then prime and pour the desired flexible latex to that...can go thicker or thinner with the ply depending on thickness required...the reason for this is you ever need access to the sub floor you can run a circular saw/multi tool through the area you need to and simply use a pry bar to lift up! Doing it this way the latex comes up with the ply and leaves clean boards underneath or even if you want to take the entire area up its sooooo easy. Using the method I can uplift an average room in about 10 minutes leaving the floors clean and tidy :-)
Cool
Love the video's very helpful, dumb question for you.. it's called self leveling but it appears there's a lot of working of the material involved.. what happens if you just work it to the sides and leave it after that.. will it end badly or just not as smooth ?
It will be smooth but not necessarily level. It is funny stuff and people often expect too much of it. You can build up areas but really if you just want to smooth the floor over it is best to push it around a bit to get the same thickness. I find a spiked roller does the best job. It costs but it makes the job perfect.
+Skill Builder Thanks for the reply, top man. Love the channel, will be watching regularly thanks.
Thanks we need subscribers to help us grow. Every single one helps.
Il pop a message to some friends who enjoy diy they will probably love your channel.
Thanks Chris. We appreciate that.
Sir what is name of product for self leveling on cement floor n wooden floor
It is called Fibreflex and it isn't cheap. I shopped around and found it for £30.00 per bag at Jewson but TP wanted £48.00
Can any of these products be used on a painted floor?..I used white floor paint on a cement floor without screeding/leveling to eliminate the pitting/small ditches.The paint I used was an outdoor acrylic heavy duty floor paint.After screeding/leveling could I re primer and re paint over the product again?
The only problem you have is that nobody can guarantee that the acrylic won't lift. It is one of those where you have to take a chance. The worst that can happen is it all comes up. If you get the self leveller down and it stays put then the paint will adhere but you need a self leveller that says it is a wear layer. This is a lot harder than normal screeds.
Is Bostik different somehow?
I didn’t see him apply primer to the subfloor before pouring the sub-floor leveling compound.
If you do that to QuickCreet, it’ll crack and flake off.
We folllowed the instructions. Sometimes you need to prime sometimes you don't.We had no problems with anything