You have explained these details probably 1000 times and yet are still so patient and careful to explain it showing that you truly care about string players seeking help no matter the level. A quality so important to keep the enthusiasm going for more players to get excited about learning.
I love this channel so much. The more I can know about how to take care of my violin, the better. And I feel like all these videos are even more important for me now that I'm teaching and helping others know how to take care of theirs. Thanks for letting us visit your workshop, Olaf!
Didn't find this channel soon enough! I loved your videos with TwoSet and wanted to know how you were doing, searched up The Violin Studio, and found my way here. This technical, woodworking-focused side of instruments has always been just as interesting to me as the music. Lovely video, keep up the great work, Olaf!
As a Luthier I do repair guitars mainly, one time This violinist was desperate to get his violin tuning right. I did not have peg paste, but he rubbed it on rosin and well screwed it up.. What I used as peg paste substitute is Unscented natural Soap. Not recommended but it works
Looked like a nice cello! 👍🥳 Wish I had one. I have a violin and a viola. No problems with changing strings, bridge adjustments, or sound post issues, except in one instance. A couple of years ago when the viola was relatively new, I accidentally knocked the closed case off of a chair with the viola in it, and the shock from the case hitting the floor apparently knocked the sound post completely down and it was rattling around inside the case; so I loosened the strings, called up my luthier, and she had me come in to fix it. I handed her the sound post I shook out of the body, and when she repositioned that sound post, it sounded even better than it did before. Cost me $ 20, and I haven’t had a problem since! Be careful out there.. and align yourself with a good violin shop, preferably close by for those emergencies..😉
Just found my new viola in this state the tail piece thread had unscrewed it’s self and all strings and bridge had let go !!! Scared moment thanks to your videos I was able to pop all back in place xx
Ive done some guitar luthier work and its fascinating to watch you work. Because the the finish is varnish rather than lacquer, its similar to working on antique furniture. I apprenticed as a finisher, restorer and learned how to apply a French polish. But with guitars, cracks are sealed and filled with multiple layers of super glue. I've also noticed that violin tops come off far more easily. And yes they both make terrible sounds! LOL
I find these videos fascinating and informative--and I'm a wind player. (I started on viola though, and played cello for a very short while in High School.)
Hill's is great for pegs. I just used it on my son's violin. Our luthier had worked on the violin but the pegs still slipped when the humidity dropped to around 40% (inside our house with air conditioning and 2 dehumidifiers running.) A little Hill's fixed it. Unlike where you are at, here in Houston the humidity tends to be much higher year round. Also, a little trick I use to make sure I get the bridge lined up correctly is after lining it up with the notches on the f-holes, I use a pencil as a straight edge against the fingerboard with the eraser end next to the bridge to make sure I don't have the bridge too far to the left or right.
I think I would try to avoid the scratches made by strings as in 9:00, from my point of view it looks better without them, and I don't know any easy way to remove them.
On the vid with the timing at approximately 09:06 when you are putting on the C-string, there looks to be a split in the cello body close to the neck! Perhaps it is just the camera angle with some of reflection playing tricks ?
Omg, this happend to me on my violin, G string, so I just turn the peg more like put it in more and it was fixed, my bridge was not falling it was fine. Also my sound post is fine nothing happend. Just to know my violin teacher taught me how to fix the bridge in case it falls. 😀
Ask Olaf bridge position question: recently having my violin bridge changed, I noticed the bridge is a bit off from the original spot. Now it is aligned by the side line not in the middle line. The violinst who made the adjustment said that the new position makes the violin sound better. I would like to know your opinion. Thank you.
It's on the treble side, roughly upright, directly underneith the bridge. Plus or minus a few millimeters for fine tuning. There are quite a few videos in which Olaf shows exactly where it is supposed to be and what its functions are. Usually if it is not in the right place it is rattling around inside and you need help to get it up again... You know what: open your violin case. Have a look at your instrument. Memorize the way the bridge looks (hopefully it is straight). Then look into the f holes (use a small torch) and memorize the position of the sound post. Look at the strings - is the metal uniform or are the gaps? Where are the groves they belong into on the bridge and saddle? While you are at it: look at the bow - do all the hairs look okay or are they beginning to thin out? Is it still straight? Your instrument is an extension of yourself while playing. Try to get a feeling for what it is supposed to look and handle like when it is in top condition. This way it becomes easier to recognize when something is off. Look at it before you start to tune and play, say hello to it and make sure it feels good.
Olaf, would you agree that a full size violin (14” body) or full size viola (16” body) should have a standardized scale length ? Based on my current knowledge of violins, I believe that standard scale length should be 328 mm (12.9”) for the violin and 376 mm (14.8”) for the viola. I’m a little frazzled that my alleged full size 14” student violin in actuality has a scale length 8mm shorter (320 mm), suggesting closer to a 7/8” violin! Do you concur, or am I missing something here? It is rather odd to me that a maker would not be concerned about scale length standards for a given body size, because scale should be just as important to your intonation and hand frame, just as each string needs to be properly in tune. Now I’m concerned that moving to a better violin will have an additional unexpected complication of adjustment that may take quite a while to overcome. For others reading this, this thread is about a student violin that I own from elsewhere, and has nothing to do with Olaf’s violins.
Hi, Violin yes... Full size is around 356mm body length give or take 3mm. When it comes to violas, I personally think standard should be 15.5 in which is about 390mm. But some people love huge violas up to 17 inch and others prefer a more manageable size. A bigger viola doesn't always sound better.
@@AskOlaftheViolinmaker Actually Olaf, I was referring to the “scale length” relative to the body size; “scale length” being the distance from the nut to the bridge, or iow, the vibrating string length distance.
@@shipsahoy1793 ok... well the mensur is more important than the length... It's amazing how quickly people can adjust sizes as long as the measurements is right... The mensur is the relationship between the segment between the bridge and the edge and the edge and the nut... should be 3 to 2 for the violin or 195mm to 130mm for a full size violin
Olaf I need your help ! My double bass has some kind of fungus or mold inside, I live near the beach, it's only in the inside of the isntrumet, it started a little spot and now it's a lot bigger, what can I do?
Meanwhile, guitar, mandolin, banjo, and ukulele players are laughing their asses off, knowing that the problem of slipping pegs was solved over 150 years ago with the invention of the machine tuner. Tradition is great, but why the f-- are violins still strung with pegs?
brown wooden pegs that match the colour of my caramel brown violin are pretty thats why also they are very light for my weak ass shoulder meanwhile i think cello and bass etc which stand on the ground can totally use some machine tuner
@@coby.t Machine tuner knobs are made in a variety of colours already, so you should be able to choose whatever colour you like. And the gearing means that they'd be much less effort to turn than pegs.
It's really hard to play and tune at the same time with just the pegs. Also the bigger pegs make for a lot more friction making it a lot harder to tune precisely.
Also the tuning position near your ear is one of the worst ergonomic positions... It can really hurt a players arm to tune with the pegs especially if they don't turn smoothly...
I play violin, viola and cello. Cello pegs require significantly more physical strength to turn. Even as someone who goes to the gym everyday, I find it difficult to turn at times (particularly the C string). Violin and viola pegs are far easier to turn.
You have explained these details probably 1000 times and yet are still so patient and careful to explain it showing that you truly care about string players seeking help no matter the level. A quality so important to keep the enthusiasm going for more players to get excited about learning.
I don’t play any instruments but I can’t get enough of these videos 🙌🏻❤️🙌🏻
I love this channel so much. The more I can know about how to take care of my violin, the better. And I feel like all these videos are even more important for me now that I'm teaching and helping others know how to take care of theirs. Thanks for letting us visit your workshop, Olaf!
Wow super
Didn't find this channel soon enough! I loved your videos with TwoSet and wanted to know how you were doing, searched up The Violin Studio, and found my way here. This technical, woodworking-focused side of instruments has always been just as interesting to me as the music. Lovely video, keep up the great work, Olaf!
As a Luthier I do repair guitars mainly, one time This violinist was desperate to get his violin tuning right. I did not have peg paste, but he rubbed it on rosin and well screwed it up..
What I used as peg paste substitute is Unscented natural Soap.
Not recommended but it works
love how olaf explains things that otherwise seem complicated (to me at least). it makes me happy :)) love your videos olaf !!
Thank you... I'm glad they make sense 🙂
Looked like a nice cello!
👍🥳 Wish I had one. I have a violin and a viola.
No problems with changing strings, bridge adjustments, or sound post issues, except in one instance. A couple of years ago when the viola was relatively new, I accidentally knocked the closed case off of a chair with the viola in it, and the shock from the case hitting the floor apparently knocked the sound post completely down and it was rattling around inside the case; so I loosened the strings, called up my luthier, and she had me come in to fix it. I handed her the sound post I shook out of the body, and when she repositioned that sound post, it sounded even better than it did before. Cost me $ 20, and I haven’t had a problem since! Be careful out there.. and align yourself with a good violin shop, preferably close by for those emergencies..😉
I have a cello
Just found my new viola in this state the tail piece thread had unscrewed it’s self and all strings and bridge had let go !!! Scared moment thanks to your videos I was able to pop all back in place xx
Ive done some guitar luthier work and its fascinating to watch you work. Because the the finish is varnish rather than lacquer, its similar to working on antique furniture. I apprenticed as a finisher, restorer and learned how to apply a French polish. But with guitars, cracks are sealed and filled with multiple layers of super glue. I've also noticed that violin tops come off far more easily. And yes they both make terrible sounds! LOL
I find these videos fascinating and informative--and I'm a wind player. (I started on viola though, and played cello for a very short while in High School.)
Great video. Please make a workshop review, show us your tools and organisation
Great video. Thank you. Perfectly informative. I needed this!
Hill's is great for pegs. I just used it on my son's violin. Our luthier had worked on the violin but the pegs still slipped when the humidity dropped to around 40% (inside our house with air conditioning and 2 dehumidifiers running.) A little Hill's fixed it. Unlike where you are at, here in Houston the humidity tends to be much higher year round. Also, a little trick I use to make sure I get the bridge lined up correctly is after lining it up with the notches on the f-holes, I use a pencil as a straight edge against the fingerboard with the eraser end next to the bridge to make sure I don't have the bridge too far to the left or right.
Thank you for the advice. I hope it won't happen with my violin but if it happens I will look at this video again to know what to do
One of the first things my teachers taught me, as a young teenager, was to change strings and replace a bridge.
Always great videos !!
I think I would try to avoid the scratches made by strings as in 9:00, from my point of view it looks better without them, and I don't know any easy way to remove them.
he was doing some thing where he drove the peg in further, it seems
really thank you!
On the vid with the timing at approximately 09:06 when you are putting on the C-string, there looks to be a split in the cello body close to the neck! Perhaps it is just the camera angle with some of reflection playing tricks ?
Omg, this happend to me on my violin, G string, so I just turn the peg more like put it in more and it was fixed, my bridge was not falling it was fine. Also my sound post is fine nothing happend. Just to know my violin teacher taught me how to fix the bridge in case it falls. 😀
Ask Olaf bridge position question: recently having my violin bridge changed, I noticed the bridge is a bit off from the original spot. Now it is aligned by the side line not in the middle line. The violinst who made the adjustment said that the new position makes the violin sound better. I would like to know your opinion. Thank you.
I feel like „all my strings are loose!“ could mean something like „I am completely tired/depressed/kaputt/can’t go on anymore“…. 😉🤓
I have questions pls make a video of this ... Does violin f-hole placement matters? Does it affects the sound of the instrument?
Sometimes the pigs get loose?? Oh the pegs! That's just Olaf's Aussie pronunciation 😅 Glad the pigs did not get out of the pen.
Hello uncle i got a desdren german violin 1768 who is the maker
How can you tell if the sound post is in the right place?
It's on the treble side, roughly upright, directly underneith the bridge. Plus or minus a few millimeters for fine tuning. There are quite a few videos in which Olaf shows exactly where it is supposed to be and what its functions are. Usually if it is not in the right place it is rattling around inside and you need help to get it up again...
You know what: open your violin case. Have a look at your instrument. Memorize the way the bridge looks (hopefully it is straight). Then look into the f holes (use a small torch) and memorize the position of the sound post. Look at the strings - is the metal uniform or are the gaps? Where are the groves they belong into on the bridge and saddle? While you are at it: look at the bow - do all the hairs look okay or are they beginning to thin out? Is it still straight?
Your instrument is an extension of yourself while playing. Try to get a feeling for what it is supposed to look and handle like when it is in top condition. This way it becomes easier to recognize when something is off. Look at it before you start to tune and play, say hello to it and make sure it feels good.
Olaf, would you agree that a full size violin (14” body) or full size viola (16” body) should have a standardized scale length ?
Based on my current knowledge of violins, I believe that standard scale length should be 328 mm (12.9”) for the violin and 376 mm (14.8”) for the viola. I’m a little frazzled that my alleged full size 14” student violin in actuality has a scale length 8mm shorter (320 mm), suggesting closer to a 7/8” violin! Do you concur, or am I missing something here?
It is rather odd to me that a maker would not be concerned about scale length standards for a given body size, because scale should be just as important to your intonation and hand frame, just as each string needs to be properly in tune. Now I’m concerned that moving to a better violin will have an additional unexpected complication of adjustment that may take quite a while to overcome. For others reading this, this thread is about a student violin that I own from elsewhere, and has nothing to do with Olaf’s violins.
Hi,
Violin yes...
Full size is around 356mm body length give or take 3mm.
When it comes to violas, I personally think standard should be 15.5 in which is about 390mm.
But some people love huge violas up to 17 inch and others prefer a more manageable size.
A bigger viola doesn't always sound better.
@@AskOlaftheViolinmaker Actually Olaf, I was referring to the “scale length” relative to the body size; “scale length” being the distance from the nut to the bridge, or iow, the vibrating string length distance.
@@shipsahoy1793 ok... well the mensur is more important than the length...
It's amazing how quickly people can adjust sizes as long as the measurements is right...
The mensur is the relationship between the segment between the bridge and the edge and the edge and the nut... should be 3 to 2 for the violin or 195mm to 130mm for a full size violin
@@AskOlaftheViolinmaker Hi Olaf, yes, mensur measures 3/2 ratio and all other measurements are ok, so I guess there’s nothing to worry about, thanks.
Olaf I need your help ! My double bass has some kind of fungus or mold inside, I live near the beach, it's only in the inside of the isntrumet, it started a little spot and now it's a lot bigger, what can I do?
Meanwhile, guitar, mandolin, banjo, and ukulele players are laughing their asses off, knowing that the problem of slipping pegs was solved over 150 years ago with the invention of the machine tuner. Tradition is great, but why the f-- are violins still strung with pegs?
You definitely have a point...
Why can't the violin/viola/cello/base pegs be made more like guitar ones???
I've also always wondered the same thing. Why don't all modern instruments have mechanical tuning gears?
brown wooden pegs that match the colour of my caramel brown violin are pretty thats why
also they are very light for my weak ass shoulder
meanwhile i think cello and bass etc which stand on the ground can totally use some machine tuner
@@coby.t Machine tuner knobs are made in a variety of colours already, so you should be able to choose whatever colour you like. And the gearing means that they'd be much less effort to turn than pegs.
👉All my screws are loose!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🍩☕️
can this happen on a string bass ?
Usually not, because they use Machine Heads...
If all the strings come loose, it is probably because of a tailpiece problem
@@AskOlaftheViolinmaker thhanks
Whew...... I'm early 🤣🔥
your wig remind me of famous Icelandic cello player lol
at one point you mentioned that you would do this on a violin
I know many people with loose strings.
Why has a cello even got fine tuners?
It's really hard to play and tune at the same time with just the pegs. Also the bigger pegs make for a lot more friction making it a lot harder to tune precisely.
Also the tuning position near your ear is one of the worst ergonomic positions... It can really hurt a players arm to tune with the pegs especially if they don't turn smoothly...
I play violin, viola and cello. Cello pegs require significantly more physical strength to turn. Even as someone who goes to the gym everyday, I find it difficult to turn at times (particularly the C string). Violin and viola pegs are far easier to turn.
#youtube.ong
magnificent
Ah ! rich people problems.
Wouldn't geared tuners solve that problem?