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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2019
- Short video discussing the timing belt change on a rover KV6 engine.
Just my thoughts, opinions and experience towards one of the more awkward jobs in the rover/mg mechanics world.
If you agree/disagree please comment. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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You're right! I'm changing the belt on my 103k MG ZS with 2.5 KV6 and the timing is a good couple of degrees out between each inlet and exhaust cams, although both belts there are getting a bit slack. Last person in there left paint marks so assuming perhaps didn't use tools. Thankfully I rented a set from DMGRS who are saints.
Yes, Most Definitely correct, Especially on the v6
unfortuantely alot of the specialist would miss this step
That’s interesting and I understand what you are saying. I’m soon to do the belts.
have fun
Hi! :) I need to remove this lower circle which you can see in 2:15 of the video. Is the screw is regular or I need to unscrew it in the opposite direction?
Please I want 75 2.5 MG Chin car do u guid me these settingv6
Been doing the belts last week on my ZT. What an absolute mission! Difficult to get to the belts. Why did they make these engines with 3 belts? Why not just one belt and 4 pulleys at the front?
thats rover for you, british engineering at its best. Yeah its not a job for the faint of heart.
Hello,
how do you align the camshafts?
Because if you align them will it more align the crankshaft pulley with the engine mark?
thank you
no there is only a mark for the crank pulley, the cam you need to use the locking tools
By the way, if the cam sprocket float on the cam shaf keys with a degree of movement, what ensures the cams are timed up correctly?
The rear locking tool keeps the cams alligned and then you torque the cam bolts up at front to lock eveything
Question for you. I’m timing up a 2.5 KV6 from a 75 auto, it’s going in to a ZS 180. I’ve found with the flywheel locking pin in place the ‘v’ notch on the crank pulley does not quite line up with the pointer on the oil pump. The crank pulley notch is just a smidge off to the right of the pointer.
Would you leave pin in when fitting the cam belt, or remove pin and go by the crank pulley markings?
Make sure you are in the right hole in the crank, there is few. If you lock the crank up and it doesn't line up there something badly wrong.
I have been given a present of a Rover 75 connoisseur 2.5l My brother had been offered a £100 for it when trading in. An offer which he refused and instead offered it to me. The only Rovers I have been familiar with have been a Rover105R from 1957 and a Rover100 from 1962 so this new Rover is unfamiliar to me. I knew as soon as I listened to the engine that it wAS off-tune. I had also been advised by a highly experienced mecahnic that no matter what; I should replace the timing belt at the very least. So I bought the recommended timing tools. I am now at the stage of fitting the belt. The first thing is that the new belt is 1.5 inches longer than the old belt. So I ask is this stretvch normal for a car that had a new belt fitted at 30,000 miles(it has now done 57,000 miles) so about 30,000 miles on the belt I am replacing; Is this normal or was an incorrect belt fitted>? I have fitted the locking tool on the front inlet camshaft and it is noticeable that the exhaust camshaft is retarded by at leas 5 degrees. The second thing I have found is that the locking tool for the rear cambelts will probably not fit. I see from your pics that there are no markings visible on the inlet rear camwheels whereas on my car there is what appears to be a part number and the word inlet. Also the belt guide rim is on the outside. Can you tell me does this mean that the wheels have been fitted the wrong way around? should the writing on the cam wheels face toward s the engine block? It seems to me that this may be the case. Incidentally, I think your video is great and very clear. I live in Ballynahinch just down the road form you I think!
fred
I have removed the cam wheels ; it is impossible to get them back to front. I can get the locking tool in when they are on the bench so I hope to get the timing done in the next day or two. It is difficult to get at things when the engine is in situ
Fred
hi Fred, sorry for the late reply. you have to remember this engine in the video is a 2.0 and not a 2.5. The pulleys may be different marked. They also use different timing tools. It does sound like you have a early engine and the rear cam spockets were different setup. You should be able to use the timing tool in kit to lock them up. The difference in the belts would be abit worrying and id say are wrong. But im guesssing after 3 months you have it sorted. Glad the video was some help to you and call down if your about.
Hi mate I've recently subscribed and I know it's not kv6 related but on your video for the l series gt2056 you mentioned there may be dyno results video for the said conversion did that come to fruition or can you give me anymore information on the results tia 👍
Hi Stephen. Thanks for the subscribe. Car ended up making 184bhp /290ft/lb at lowish boost. Car is still running today with little issues so far. The peak figures aren't all that matters. The torque curve is alot flatter meaning the car drives alot better.
@@mrkstrlng thanks for the reply I'm on the look out for one of those turbo's I'm pretty sure it's what is on my dad's 2.5 vivaro that's mapped decat dpf removed that puts out 165.4 bhp on the rollers custom tuned for towing it doesn't even know when we have his prosport lm3000 on the trailer. Did it make that with sdi's standard pump and is it the case that freelander nozzles are bigger or is that hearsay? 👍
Yeah that was on sdi injectors.its pretty close to maximum the fuel pump will deliver. Freelander injectors would be inbetween standard and sdis. Larger would be land rover 200tdis injectors.
What locking kit do you use by the way? Mine is a comprehensive kit with all the bits, but it’s rubbish! The camshaft locking tools just slip out and don’t fit properly
mine is one i picked up from a rover dealer, so is a genuine set. Yes i believe some of the aftermarket ones have diffculty locking the cam sprockets. Prob poor material choice etc.
hope you get it sorted. just remember to rotate it a few times before you bolt everything up and fire the engine for first time.
@@mrkstrlng I have one of the cheap Chinese kits from Amazon. I found that the lugs on the locking tools needed a bit of touching up with a file for a proper fit. Then they work fine. The biggest issue with the cheap kits (and I think the Sealey and Laser kits too) is that they don't use the factory type cam turning tool but instead have a hex on the end of the locking tool for turning. If you aren't careful the took can cock and fracture the end of the cam where the locating pin fits. I haven't had any luck finding the proper tool and am thinking of making up my own.
Do you have used and good condition KV6 engine for freelander petrol 2005? With low mileage?
No sorry I don't. If you join the different Facebook groups you should be able to find one. Good luck
How are you able to adjust the rear belt if the cam is locked at the front? Its the same cam so if its locked at the front it isnt going to turn at the rear. The engine I am doing has no play in the front locater. The toothed pulley can rotate but the tool keeps the cam still.
You need to loosen the bolt in the pulley. There will be movement in the cam pulley on the cam. It's very small amount.
That’s true. You cant turn the intake camshaft while the tool is locking the front cam pulley. You will need to remove it.
sorry but i think you have missed the point of the video.
Hi, when is the timming belt replacement service? 140.000km? Thank you.
Hi gustavo. It's 90k miles or 6 years
@@mrkstrlng Thank you very much.
@@mrkstrlng b
I see that your crank pulley is on. So you Didn't have to remove that pulley in order to get the front cover off?
It's only on to rotate the engine and stop the belt coming off. A good practice.
@@mrkstrlng Thanks...too bad) I just got mine off today so I can see now that there is a small plastic cover for the crank pulley that is held in place by three 8mm bolts. I have changed a number of timing belts on Toyota's, and none of them required the removal of the cam pulleys like rover says to do here. The only reason would be to replace the oil seals, and I'm not going to do that. I'm just gonna cut the belt to remove it, and then I can remove the tensioner without damaging it. Do you see anything wrong with that?
Hello! Where can I buy the lock cam timing tool?
Should be plenty of options online. Ebay, etc.
Would this be the same set up as my 2002 MG ZT 2.5 160? I am going to be doing the belts on that soon. What do you do r.e cam seals?
I understand there is an issue with new cap type seals falling out, so the only alternative is to use standard cam seals leaving an exposed camshaft end rotating - which is not ideal
yes will be the same idea for your car. the different bhp models use different timing locking tool, so this is the difference. If you want to do cam seals then remove the pulleys and loosen off the 2 8mm bolts and is usually enough to remove and refit the seals. Use a socket to push the new seal in equally.
Never had a issue with the cap seals myself but yes people do use just a cam seal instead. Either way should be fine.
@@mrkstrlng I don't want to re-use old cam seals, I want to fit new ones. So you have re-used the old caps and had no issues. But have you ever fitted new cap seals? I'm guessing the issue with them falling out/coming loose is poor quality caps and perhaps not being fitted correctly - it is extremely difficult to do with the engine in the bay after all. I hope that If I fit genuine LR caps to the engine when it is out of the car will ensure they are fitted correctly and wont come out.
Hi ash. Yes I always fitted new caps. You can fit seals instead of the caps. Some people do that. I've never heard of caps falling out. They are usually a very tight fit.
@@mrkstrlng I have always had a terrible time fitting new cap seals with the engine in the car. On a couple of occasions I gave up and refitted the old seals using some sealant around the edge. Never had any issues with them leaking or coming out on their own,
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