Three unknown Macs: Let's get them working again
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- It's been a while since I've done a Mac Repair-a-thon, so let's change that by working on these three machines. In this part, I'm going to focus on the Macintosh SE.
0:00 Intro and overview
5:51 Fixing up the Mac SE
48:30 Testing out the Mac Classic
Part 1: This part
Part 2: • Not so fast! I hit som...
Part 2.5: • Let's recap a Macintos... (recapping the Classic II)
Part 3:
-- Links
Previous Mac Repair-a-thon from 2020:
Part 1: • Mac Repairathon Part 1...
Part 2: • Mac Repairathon Part 2...
Part 3: • Mac Repairathon Part 3...
Part 4: • Mac Repairathon Part 4...
Part 4.5: • Rejuvenating a Macinto...
Part 5: • Mac Repairathon Part 5...
Part 6: • Mac Repairathon Part 6...
Joe's Computer Museum:
jcm-1.com/product/bluescsi-v2...
/ @joescomputermuseum
BlueSCSI:
bluescsi.com/
Adrian's Digital Basement Merch store:
my-store-c82bd2-2.creator-spr...
Adrian's Digital Basement ][ (Second Channel)
/ @adriansdigitalbasement2
Support the channel on Patreon:
/ adriansdigitalbasement
-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.16...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.com/products/digi...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress.com/item/33000...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/itm/TS100-65W-MI...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.com/product/121gw/
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Logic-DS...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/itm/14-16-18-20-...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)
www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-5-10PCS-...
Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress.com/item/32537...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
amzn.to/3b8LOOI
--- Links
My GitHub repository:
github.com/misterblack1?tab=r...
Commodore Computer Club / Vancouver, WA - Portland, OR - PDX Commodore Users Group
www.commodorecomputerclub.com/
--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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14:10 "...who's even using these things for productive work..."
I still ocasionally use my old iMac because it has a (still very usable) version of Photoshop on it.
What are you using it for? I kinda want one, but it’s not really worth the space just as an ornament.
I wanna know too.
I have my old SE 30 in storage and haven't pulled it out because I can't think of a Use.
What are you using it for? Super cool that they’re still used in modern times!
In 1989 my middle school bought 4 "take home" Mac SEs. You could sign up to borrow one from the computer lab on a rotating 3 month schedule. It was no doubt to be used for educational purposes, but I just remember hours and hours of Crystal Quest and Dark Castle. I saved up all my lawn mowing and allowance money for about a year and somehow managed to convince my parents to pay for half to get the first computer I could really call my own, the Glorious Mac IIsi.
@@SimonsSolarShedTV parts! That’s great. What an education that was
@@kaitlyn__L it's far better to use your brain than things coming easy to you money was hard to come by lol stil is now lol
@@SimonsSolarShed absolutely. I’ve got a bunch of lithium charge controllers from discarded battery banks, and lithium cells from disposable vapes, lol. Not sure what I’m gonna do with them but I’ll be damned if I let them just go in the bin!
It's funny that you started the video as "repair marathon" and you ended up making an in-depth guide on 1 single machine, buying- and fixing guide :D You are an awesome source of information to the community!
Thanks! And it's true about what I ended up doing! I guess I did it because I kind of knew this machine would be the most likely one to work so might as well give tips about fixing them up instead.
when are we to expect videos on the other 3? i love these videos.@@adriansdigitalbasement
@@andenmcleod7355 Something for Marchintosh...
Spot on dukefazam 👍
Adrian might have 12 hours of footage for all we know
Factory “correct” geometry does not fill the screen edge to edge. You want the flashing floppy disk to be about 11mm square which will mean you’ll have rather thick horizontal bars at the top and bottom. That will give you more true to life WYSIWYG from screen to printer. Great video and nice work :-)
Here’s the hands down best way to remove a stubborn case: unscrew the screws half way out, and then use the screw driver to push on the screws till the front cover pops out. Once it pops out, remove the screws the rest of the way.
An interesting thing I found about the classic II when messing around with it, is that it's hdd is repairable. My hdd hadn't been working, and was making some sort of grinding noise. I thought it was a complete goner, but I was wrong. I took it apart because I thought it was completely dead, but what I found was a different problem that was actually fixable. It has those rubber stoppers on the inside that cushion the head when it parks. Those rubber stoppers are completely deteriorated, and basically turned to goo. This causes the head to stick to the stoppers and not move. I took my hdd apart, and that's exactly what I found. I took the top magnet off, and carefully wiped off the rubber gunk from both studs. You can replace the stoppers with new rubber ones, but I just modeled and 3D printed new ones in tpu filament. Putting them on was kinda hard, I basically used my screwdriver without a bit to push them back onto the studs. This does require a bit of force, so make sure you move the head out of the way to punch it onto the one stud that is attached to the hdd. When moving the head, make sure it doesn't move off of the disk, if it does, slowly push it back on. It's not really good for the head to move off of the disk. Once you replace those rubber stoppers, the hdd should be good to go. When I took mine apart, it had this weird flywheel above the disk, which I think was the main reason why it worked after opening it. I think the weird flywheel on top of the disk stopped any dust from falling onto the disk itself. Overall I thought my classic II hdd would be a goner, but it ended up working after replacing the rubber stoppers, and I managed to reinstall the OS.
The flywheel on top isn't to stop dust from falling onto the disk, that's just a blank platter. Centrifugal force keeps dust off the disk, and the wind generated by air dragging along the disk forces any dust remaining inside the case to fly into the little white dust filter. As long as no large particles make it in and get caught on the head, they're self cleaning to get rid of anything that might have made it past the cleanroom where they were assembled.
I also still have the family Mac SE. Took it out of my parents' garage to remove the battery a few years ago, then I did what I could never afford to to as a kid - bought four 1MB SIMMs and maxed out the RAM. Paying $25 for an upgrade that would have cost hundreds back in the day was oddly satisfying.
The geometry is not bad. They are supposed to be like that, with a black area on top and bottom of the screen. The display area is not supposed to be squared: if it is, you will have a graphical vertical deformation. Check the square on the upper corner of a window, it will become a rectangle. I know it's a bit frustrating not to have a full screen display, buy it's by design.
When I was in college, I added a second HD to the inside of my SE by riveting a metal HD bracket to the side opposite the power supply (drilled a couple holes in the metal to do it) and adding a scsi cable with a second connector. I’m surprised nobody sold a kit to do it. I recall paying something like $250 for a Connor 20MB HD in the early 90s. It was a painful purchase for a poor college student (me) at the time. I loved that machine. Good memories.
Nice thing about SCSI is that you can attach 7 devices to any SCSI controller, as long as the ones at either end are terminated.
Before I knew her, my wife had a Macintosh SE40. It was custom-made for Lawrence Livermore Laboratory by Apple. She got it at a surplus sale.
But she didn't have any system disc for it so she never got to actually use it before she sold it.
That's so cool! I would have loved to see one of those.
It’s worth to mention that the Plus (and early SE models?) DEFINITELY HAVE RIFA caps! Also: for any older
Hey Adrian - I doubt you will see this but I've seen a lot of your vids now and a couple of times seen you struggle with those black plastic push-pins. There is a trick to them - what you do is get a pair of needle-nosed pliers and pinch them from the outside and pull straight outwards. Then when you need to put them back, you pinch the smaller piece's "legs" back in and back into the hole, then you take the pin piece and push it back in. Works a treat - no damage, no need for tools other than a single pair of pliers.
Love your vids mate, very comfy - you are like the uncle I never had lol.
Watching this reminded me of the rivalry I had with a friend in high school: which was better, his Macintosh SE or my Apple IIGS. Well, about a decade later, as fate would have it, I found a non-booting Macintosh SE in a thrift store for $5. Repaired it and gave it a clean System 6 install plus added some games. All it did was strengthen my opinion how much better a machine the IIGS was, and I still feel that way to this day! Gave away that SE as I found it dull and uninteresting, but still have my Apple IIGS. :)
That battery said you better put some respect on my name! Still holding a charge after 30+ years, son!
That "floating piece of dust" validates your awsome hi-res video feed. I am very impressed I need to up my prescription :)
Mac n' cheese is the preferred meal on a day you repair Macs
I took a Mac SE case and worked a Raspberry Pi into it as an homage system. I know the Mac fans would be mortified, but it's a great way to pay tribute to a classic computer in a way that's still useful in the modern era.
What did you do with the original guys?
Ah yes, the "Mac Slap" to get those cases open.
One idea, if you don't have the means to properly repair that cracked piece of the case, if you put super glue on the pieces of plastic you want to reconnect then put a little sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) on the super glue, it'll instantly glue those 2 pieces permanently. Just a tip
Thanks so much for letting us be a fly on the wall on your adventures.
I've been looking forward to a repairathon for a long time - excellent! Thanks Adrian!
Yaaay! Thank you for rescuing these classic machines!❤❤❤❤❤
I’m so glad you made another one! This is one amazing show that got its 2nd ep
I have been watching this channel for years, Adrian. I'm always excited when I see you upload a video !! I have learned a ton of repair knowledge from you !! You're very wise, and I'm glad I have the opportunity to learn from the GOAT. Lol
The original Mac is super nostalgic for me. My computer teacher in junior high had one. We had Apple IIe's for the class, but her personal computer was a Mac. Every Friday we rotated who got to use it and got to play games on it. Shadowgate is still one of my favorites to this day.
Thank you for your video on the SE. A couple of quick tips regarding the memory - 1) those modern 2 chip plus parity chip modules are not programmed to work in SEs nor SE/30s, or any Mac up to probably pre Quadras, and 2) don't use memory faster than 80ns ie: don't use those 60s nor 70s in an SE or SE/30; usually marked as -6 or -7 on those chips --43:50-- -- just a general rule otherwise you will get intermittent crashes, as you did!
Thanks for this great video. I'm always exited when new videos are available. One important note: The interface on the back of the SE is not the same as the Macintosh Plus. The mouse and keyboard do not use ADB on the original 128k, 512k and Plus models. Enthusiasts who want to buy a Plus shall be aware that they cannot use ADB peripherals. Keep doing your great work! Greetings from Berlin/Germany :)
Helpful video as always Adrian. Just got a Macintosh SE from a friend and this video was great.
As someone who finds PCs extremely boring, I'm always excited when something else is on your bench!
I've been watching your channel for about a year now Adrian, but didn't realise I was not subscribed. Just did. Love your contents btw.. even if I'm clueless in electronics I am however an IT professional. So I can follow most of your stuff.
There goes THAT hour of my Saturday! Thanks, Sir.
Me again... as all that I wrote was one on the first 20 minutes.... and now that I seen it all entirely, I have to add...
Long ago I found A Classic II in the trash and I recapped it. Everything works but the sound. Strangely, there is sound when I put in headphones on the headphone jack, but no sound without the headphones plugged in. I do know, looking at the board through a microscope, that there are some broken traces in the sound area of the board. But since this was so long ago, I left it as is. It works great other than it being a silent Mac.
You should test your Mac(s) 's audio port with a headphone or external speaker to see if there really is sound or not. That can save you from a lot of work in the long run.
Loved to see more SE and Classic Macs being repaired. My high school classroom had Mac Classics and I have fond memories of that class so it feels like you saved a little piece of my history. Thanks Adrian!
yay for another appearance of the unreasonably long screwdrivers! 🤩 Learned a lot on your channel, thanks big time!
No many original Macs baked to death without an add on cooler that snapped in over the vent on top. A friend of mine had his catch on fire (at his company which used them for work). Luckily he was there and was able to unplug it and put it out. I got a snap on fan for mine and it lasted till I got rid of it.
Love these retro videos
On Batteries... in the Ma world, the Maxell (Red & Black) 1/2 AA Litihium Batteries are the scourge of the Mac world as they tend to explode and destroy boards. The Vertas and a Purple with Black lettering tends to be safe and least likely to destroy a board through leaking.
The SE (Any 68K SE) is an oddball. Like the older Mac II/IIx, you can have 3 Floopy drives on it - 2 internally and 1 externally.. It is the only Mac that can do this, though most macs should be able to do it but difficult to do, the SE makes it easy.
The story of the Caps is that Pioneer/LG designed a new Cap in the 1990s, but some Chinese company stole their designs and tried out-sell Pioneer/LG. This is this - they only stole 1/2 the design and had to fudge the rest. Then early on computers have had Cap Failures. It is thanks to these Chinese Cap Makers and their bad caps that computers made in the 1990s-2010 need a recap.
You forgot on the Classic about the ROM Drive in the intro.
NEVER EVER REFLOW Solder Joints. The metal has fatigued and reflowing the joint, though it will reestablish the connection, it will fail again; If you use the Mac on a daily basis, it will fail with cracked solder joints in less than weeks. You need to remove the old solder and clean up the area, and resolder with fresh solder and flux.
But resoldering cracked solder is not the solution. It is a symptom of something else. Get a copy of Larry Pina's Mac repair and upgrade secrets and the Dead Mac Scrolls; it describes what fails and why and what needs to be replaced. The Larrge cap on the top of the analog board, the flyback transformer, a high frequency transistor in the same area and the yoke connection jack need replacing. He has parts numbers for the pieces needed.
The Classic is more like the Mac SE as it rarely needs recapping, as most of their boards use Tantalium caps. There are some Classics with electrolytic caps and those need to be recapped if you find them. The Classic II (based on the Mac LC II) use electrolytic caps, and they always need to be recapped. I'm sure you heard of the joke about washing the Classic II board and it would work. That is a good test to see how damaged the board is.
The Classic has a RAM Slot to add a RAM Board to get it to 4MB, the Classic II has a modified PDS Slot to add certain boards, including a FPU card.. The Classic II does not have a ROM Drive, the Classic is the only Mac with a ROM Drive.
The Classic II shares its board design with the LC II, which limits the RAM to 10MB of RAM.
You can speed up System 7 on a Mac 68K but you need to spend a long time with Resource Editor to remove a lot of STUFF meant for Color Macs. With a smaller OS Footprint, it would be faster than before.
I'm working with a Macintosh SE right now - I was also fighting with crashes and it seems to be related to the low density RAM (the 1MB simms with just 2 chips, or 3 chips with parity). They seem much happier with the 8/9 chip variations.
Thanks for being realistic about these older machines. I find "fanboys" annoying... and your approach is matter of fact.
You are absolutely right. System 7 was the jump to all Mac’s running like a dog. It was possibly their most bloated OS.
Adrian would have starred nicely as a hand model in the ads for these machines back in the day
Either Adrian or David Duchovny
@@DavePoo2 😂
great video Adrian. Thanks
I've never noticed a wedding band until this video.
Baking soda powder and superglue for the stripped standoff does wonders.
The Mac Classic II could technically have an accelerator card made for it now with SCSI replacement solutions freeing up the HDD power draw, it's just that it was outright disallowed when it was actively sold because the PSU tolerances were too tight to support much more than the FPU/ROM card to the point they only rated that slot overall for 4W max power usage.
I would say regarding the Classics, is that there are two types of CRT that can be in them, and the logic boards are not interchangeable between them because the 4-pin connector is different.
Hi Adrian absolutly love your content it's kept me entertained and educated for many an hour....it helps that you are a very likeable individual with might I add a kind face. Keep up the great work you do and God bless you sir from here in the UK from "Simons solar shed "a budding youtuber.
Glad you covered the history as well. May have given me the courage to get my original Macintosh working; but as always, a catch. Mine has a terrible (?) add-on called MacSnap by Dove computing; brings the total to 2MB if I recall correctly; and adds SCSI. This video, despite it being of newer 80's will surely help. Thank you!
Just a note: The Mac Classic has a version of software 6.0.3 in its rom. You can set it up, but you need a battery to sustain it. As for the black fasteners, I used a pair of wire cutters (VERY GENTLY) to grip the pop up part and pull it out a bit. Don't cut them off!!
I used to fix these for Apple back in the early 1990s. Fun times.
These plastic pins that hold the cardboard, you dont need to remove them from the inside. Just use your fingernails to only grab the very top of the pin, pull that top part up (this action replaces what you did with the sharp tool), nd then you can remve the pin like you did. You do need a bit of good fingernails to only pull the top part out, but i've done it many times...
There are also trim tools which do the same job.
Ahhh, yes... The SE was the first of my retro Mac collection. I've since added several more compact Macs. The most recent I had recapped by Amiga of Rochester were one of my Color Classics, SE/30, and Classic II, and next in line is a Classic. I have tons of these machines on shelves on display in my office and at the house, some permanently setup for demonstration, and it's really cool that I can grab any of them which are on display to just swap with in place of the permanent setups, turn it on, and go! Floppy EMU, SCSI2SD, and BlueSCSI are your friends for sure 😎
wow great episode !
The Mac plus was the first Apple product I used, the business studies department at my high school had 2 labs of Macs, both labs were both networked to a LaserWriter II printer, one lab was all Mac Plus and the other lab was all Mac Classic. I remember when using the word processor we had to adjust the margin to UK size.
I like to run a HEPA filter in my spaces to capture some of the dust floating around you might try that for the random dust particles cause I've seen em in your other videos too. Computers are definitely dust magnets, I love your videos and your channel! Thanks for all you do!!
OMG I loved Crystal Quest - played waaaay too much at Uni! Best sound effects ever!
Always fun to see these style Macs. I only ever had, and still use today, an Apple IIgs and Mac iici, so more workstation style standard desktops instead of the all-in-ones. On the one hand it's less to worry about, on the other I grew up learning about CRT's from an uncle that was an engineer designing TV/monitors so it's fun to see repairs on them that these bring along with all the CRt videos.
Would be fun to see another IIci or IIgs on the channel, but the II line desktops and IIgs are a tad rare in the retro scene, so not surprised they don't pop up very often.
woohoo Mac time!
Awesome!
If CR2032s were prone to leaking - we'd definitely know about it by now from the wide range of 1990s machines that used them. I suppose it is definitely possible they could leak further down the line, but any of the 3V non-rechargeable lithium cells should be safe - just like how the main lithium-ion batteries don't seem to ever leak or otherwise fail in a destructive way. Shame we can't say the same for the newer LiPos...
I have seen 2032 cells leak. I bought a Tandy 1000 TL/2 last year that had a leaking 2032. It does happen but far more rare.
I like repairathons, also I love your videos!
good tutorial. thanks
Great to see another Macintosh repair video from you! Regarding the battery. It’s good to have working battery in any classic Mac as it also stores several more settings in the PRAM. Like mouse speed, keyboard repeat rate. AppleTalk interface, Volume cache and 32 bit setting. Maybe more.
It's true with with the mouse speed setting being the most annoying when it's lost each time. The other things don't really matter for a 68000 Mac IMHO.
Agree! Mouse being slow all the time is the most annoying. And you are right about the 68000 vs. the SE/30. Thanks for your reply, Adrian and take care :)
I highly recommend against using painters/masking tape for anything you'll leave taped for any significant amount of time. After a while the adhesive will turn into a disgusting sticky mess that can be a pain to deal with.
Nice Pinecil. A man of culture and taste.
With regards to bootable floppy disks... I highly suggest that if you're into vintage computers to get a Greaseweazle. It reads/writes most popular vintage computer floppy formats on a modern PC. It can even handle a lot copy protected disks (mostly on the Amiga).
The Greaseweazle is great. However it can't handle Apple 800K disks. You basically have to use an original drive or an Apple 1.44 HD drive, aka SuperDrive. For those that don't know it is because it has variable speed.
@@RacerX- The Greaseweazle and Kryoflux actually can handle Apple's 800k disks. On a Mac variable rotation speed is used to create a fixed bitrate, in a standard drive you get a variable bitrate. The software-defined controllers in these modern preservation tools are very flexible and can handle this with ease. It's a bit less reliable using standard drives this way but it's good enough to make a bootdisk which you can then copy using the Mac.
@@eDoc2020 Oh nice. When I got mine it was not compatible so they must have got it to work since. Thanks I will check it out!
2:49 there was a SE FDHD released. I think it was around the time of the SE/30.
chuga chuga chuga, chuga chuga chuga, RETRO!
all retro tech chugs bro, it is a large part of the appeal to get as much done with as little CPU power as possible
It's interesting that you appear to have an older motherboard than the one in my SE. My SE has the battery in a socket, so you can easily replace it with a new 1/2AA 3v lithium cell.
The last time I went digging through SEs, I remember seeing some motherboards with a 1986 copyright and some with a 1988 copyright, so there were at least two different versions.
Also, if you want to install an Apple/Sony 1.44M floppy drive in yours, the older motherboards (that shipped with 800K drives) can support 1.44M drives as long as the ROMs include firmware with the support. If you install a 1.44M drive, insert a blank 1.44M disk, but Mac OS asks if you want to format it as single-sided/double-sided (as it would for unformatted 800K media), then you don't have the ROM support. But you can just transfer the ROMs from a newer SE or burn a set of later-generation SE ROMs and that's literally all you need to do in order to get the drives working.
The SE/30 is basically a portable Macintosh IIcx.
My SE had 4MB of RAM in it and I eventually put a 40MB hard disk in it with System 7.1. it actually had a Tadiran battery holder.
The Plus doesn't have ADB ports @ 7:40. It uses the proprietary keyboard and mouse connectors, mouse on Plus being the Apple II style Atari-style Joystick interface that is compatible with Atari and Amiga mice, if you swap the pins around to match the pinout.
I'm glad you did that work on the SE. I have one of my own, which also works great. But if it ever does start acting up, I'll know what to check first.
I found an SE-30 motherboard for cheap a while ago. I should really try swapping it into the SE. From what I understand, it should fit fine.
Having done the swap from an SE to an SE30, it works fine. You will notice it is a bit speedier though. The board is interchangeable.
Mac classic, classic ii, lc series (and their psu), se/30 (and some psus), 550,575 and many others all need rebuilding. I’ve rebuilt more than I can count for customers. The se outside the psu is very reliable.
I recapped the motherboard on my Mac Classic about a year ago. I had never tried to de-solder SMD caps before. I don't think I managed to get one off without lifting a pad 😢, however it still works. I just had to hot glue the new caps down so they wouldn't be flapping about 😅. I haven't looked at the PSU yet though. I'll have to check it out soon. It's a nice machine.
You can use a blade just under the edge of the plastic rivet and slide the centre piece then use the blase under the rivet to remove.
Hi Adrian. It’s worth resoldering the connections on the tube socket on the neck board while you’re at it, as the tube gets hot with the filament there in the neck of the picture bulb. 😊 That’s a cheap premium to pay for that insurance!
Great vid. Nice to see that SE is working!
One thing you hinted at for that Classic is that memory board on the Classic was optional, and as a result it is kind of unobtanium by itself nowadays.
Unless you can get pics that show it has one, I wouldn't buy a Classic that only had 1M RAM or doesn't say how much RAM it has...
Also, nice thing about the SE and the Classic is even at the same CPU speed, they are snappier than previous machines like the Plus. Some say about 25% faster...
I did have to not only recap my Classic but REALLY REALLY clean the motherboard to get all the cap juice off... That's been years tho and (fingers still crossed) it is still working...
I actually prefer the 7Mhz compact Macs. Just for the nostalgia, it just feels like the right speed to me. An SE30 feels to fast to me... ;-) ;-)
👍👍
It was possible to get a FDHD floppy upgrade for the original SE….but it also requires a Rom change out to support the newer drive.
You could also get back in the day a SE > SE/30 full upgrade from Apple.
The card slot on the SE and SE/30 was used…for accelerators or a separate monitor-the first Mac I used was an original SE with separate screen running off the video card… The SE does support multiple monitors and shared work space between them…on System 6…I believe I was using system 6.0.3 initially. Later I bought my own SE/30…..which had a video board driving a basic color 14in screen 640x480 at 256 cols…..under system 7.1 and 7.5.
Classic II v SE/30….i think the Classic II didn’t have the FPU whereas the SE/30 did. Also, more in-depth, the SE/30 has a faster processor I/O….symmetrical in/out at 32bit..the Classic II was slightly slower, with same cpu but the in/out was asymmetrical at 32/16bit. The SE/30 has a dirty ROM, whereas the classic II has a clean ROM.
for those pop pins try an automotive trim tool (it looks like a screw driver with a V shape at the tip)
Even if the battery in the SE hadn't leaked, the fact it measures below 3 volts means it was time to replace it anyway! And you should be able to ease the tip of a screwdriver under the edge of those black fasteners to pop them up far enough to allow them to be taken out of the board. To clarify Adrian's comments on the horizontal width adjustment, the issue with sticking a metal tool into any adjuster that has a ferrite slug is one, the metal adds inductance which can affect the adjustment, and two, you can risk chipping or cracking the slug, making the adjustment difficult or impossible.
One strong point of the Classic is you can boot it from ROM, just press command-X-O.
Every one of your Mac repair videos gets me a little closer to repairing a coworkers Color Classic... There's a short somewhere on the motherboard causing the power supply to shut down/no-start.
You can hear the high voltage charge at power up, and the SCSI drive will spin up, as long as the mobo is not installed. Good 5 & 12v at least.
Varta is a high quality brand. They made batteries in the mid to late 80s that MAY have leaked now nearly 40 years later.
People do need to remember that these are 30-40 year old electronics that were made in the infancy of electronics being cheap enough for mass-market adoption.
Does Sony give 30 year warranties when you pay 500 USD for a PS5?
Those were the computers I used in elementary and middle school.
Remember staring at that rainbow apple while waiting for Oregon trail or Hugo’s house of Horrors to boot.
For the solder connections (the flyback, etc.), i would recommend actually desoldering as best you can (one pin at a time, so the device doesn't fall out), and then using silver solder as a replacement. Silver solder is much more mechanically robust, which should result in physically stronger solder joints.
Not even a bad idea if you want to use regular lead/tin solder to remove at least some of the old solder, as you really do want to add some fresh. If you don't remove some of the old, you get just a massive blob of solder, and that's not ideal. You should end up with a smooth, concave fillet with good wetting.
I wouldn't want to use silver solder. If I'm not mistaken silver solder requires higher temperatures. Also you probably don't want a stronger mechanical connection because you'd be more likely to lift traces. Standard solder is already stronger than trace adhesion.
I don't think you need to remove old solder unless there's simply too much of it. If just a bit of new solder is enough to freshen the joint it's good, removing excess can take much more time.
@@eDoc2020 I could be wrong, your mileage may vary.
As to silver solder needing higher temps, it's a transformer, not normally prone to damage from high temperature soldering. Also, the stress is INTO the board, not away from the board.
@@jeromethiel4323 I thought silver solder needed _much_ higher temps. That would definitely melt connector housings and might damage the flyback potting, as well as charring the board. If there's lower temp silver solder it might work but I still don't see the benefit. If nothing else it will make future rework more difficult.
@@eDoc2020 Pretty much all modern electronics is silver solder now. Ever heard of ROHS? Lead solder is really only a hobbyist thing now.
@@jeromethiel4323 Lead-free electronics solder will of course work fine. But even though it often contains some silver it's not called silver solder. Actual silver solder is hard solder which requires over 1000F to melt.
One point I'd like to make here for anyone who's watching this and doesn't have any experience with older computers, especially with mechanical disks and the like.. When you turned the machine off then turned it back on again you paused. I usually wait about 30 seconds and the reason for that is not to 'let it cool down a sec' as you said, although I knew what you meant, it's more to let any spinning drives stop. That's really the MOST important thing to do. On old mfm and rll (same) and IDE, scsi drives any mechanical spinning drives - floppy drives as well - you want to avoid removing power then while they're spinning down, restore full power and spin them up again. It may be an unnecessary caution, a myth even, but I am not taking ANY chances with old archaic drives and messing around with them for no reason.. So in my opinion, that's why I wait when I fully remove power before I reinstate power. That's all.
What you describe is definitely an unnecessary caution but it definitely shouldn't hurt. I'm pretty sure in this case Adrian wanted it to literally cool down because thermal changes could bring out cold solder joints.
25:00 - whilst thermal stress can cause solder joints to crack the ones on the L.O.T are more likely to fail due to mechanical vibration...
I love the thumbnail!
Looking forward to this video! Quick tip, when text is in the bottom right corner of the thumbnail, it can be obscured by the run time text. Im sure somebody else has mentioned this, have a good day!
I'm not an apple fan in anyway, shape or form. That being said, the Macintosh compact series of computers have a special place in my computer experience. In junior high I started my journey to being a computer person on Mac compacts like the SE/Classic...Learned networking on these as well. I've since moved on to PCs because apple is cancer.
Quick fix for stripped out threads.... find a suitable size zip tie and drop it in the hole and trim the length to the top of the hole then assemble.... done😊
Oh thats a good idea. I used to just use a toothpick so I will have to try this.
would be nice to see a crt to lcd/led screen conversion for these types of macs :)
It is better to replace the capacitors with tantalum ones along the power supply circuits.They have better parameters than simple electrolytic ones.Polymer electrolytic capacitors can also be supplied.
I remember we still had these Macs back in high school.. in 1999. Yeah, pretty scary. Clackamas didnt want to spend money on the newer Macs. Though they did finally get half the Mac lab updated with iMacs.
Lithium batteries don't leak unless they've been brought over-voltage or otherwise overheated. Mi-Mh will sometimes leak, but very rarely unless they've been similarly abused. I've never had an issue. It's the Ni-Cd and alkaline batteries that you need to clip out for safety. THOSE leak!
All of the control panel settings are stored in NVRAM, including mouse speed settings (if you're using an adapter to use a PC mouse, this matters), so your mileage on "you don't really need the battery" may vary.
I have seen CR2032 cells leak. I bought a Tandy 1000 TL/2 last year that had a leaking 2032. It is far more rare but it can happen.
My kitchen has two macs a classic and a plus.....both worked when they arrived but died soon after.... I need to do a recapathon!
I'm not a Apple dude, but that SE is a beautiful machine.
Memory chips have an internal geometry regarding the number of rows and columns in the memory matrix, and SIMMs with different numbers of chips can have chips with different internal geometries, and older computers were typically not capable of handling "unexpected" geometries. TLDR: you can't always use 2 or 3-chip memory modules in machines that expect 8 or 9 chip memory modules. They only refresh a certain number of rows, and if the chips have more rows (due to a rectangular instead of square geometry), they will go unrefreshed and cause errors.
I have a spanish Mac. instead of notches on the motherboard, I have nachos! cheers
Oh I miss my Mac Plus. Loved loved loved it. Wish i had never gotten rid of it. Trade a guy for an old MacBook 100 back in 96
Looking forward to the Classic II repair - might give me some pointers (I've already done the Motherboard caps, I think the PSU caps need replacing - plus the rifa caps smoke a little)