The Lark looked beautiful under sail, thank you for sharing. Can’t wait to see what you do with the wire stitching, do you remove it, fold it and squash it before covering with the fibre glass? Patience my friend, all will be answered in good time. And yes, it’s a nice looking Kayak, with nice lines, I wasn’t sure I’d like it as much as I do thinking the strip kayak was going to be my favourite, now I’m not so sure.
Very nice! I would love to build a stitch and glue sailboat, but alas I don't have a place to do so. Maybe when I move I will make sure to have a shop.
Coming along just great Bob. My main concern is the beveling. I'm afraid of going too heavy with the beveling or not bevel enough. How do I know when to stop? You make great videos and I'm looking forward to the Auk.
I hope you were able to see the first episode on the hull assembly. I did talk a bit more about beveling. The plywood is 3 ply so when beveling it is good to keep your eye on the outer layer once you can see it in the bevel that's a good time to stop.
Nice work Bob. There looked like there was a little void on one of the side panels near the cockpit. Did the tip break off during installation? Your tips on how to repair the flaws like the hole that did not appear to be in the correct place was informative and helpful to know that all may not be 100% perfect which could be frustrating for a first timer building a kit kayak. Thanks for sharing!
Hi David, Good eyes! Yes, as I had mentioned the kit sat for nearly 5 years. In that time it got moved several time and in doing so 2 of the fragile tips where damaged. ( my bad) I do have a plan for repair. I will make sure to show all of the steps in doing so. New kits are in much better shape. CLC packs the kits very well to protect those fragile tips. Thanks for watching! Bob
Safety Pliers are not the appropriate tool for stitch and Glue. Here is what Nick Schade Master Kayak Designer and builder has to say about the use of safety pliers. "This is a very common question, and the answer is: No. The role of safety wire in the aircraft industry is to lock bolts from coming loose. To do this, there are holes in the bolt/nuts. The wire is placed to keep the bolt/nut from turning. The wire is twisted between adjacent bolts so the wire cannot move. Safety wire is not intended to be under tension. The pliers are designed to put many twists into the wire quickly, while not creating tension on the bolt. In stitch and glue boat building, the role of the wire is to pull the panels close together, under tension. To do this, you use one hand to hold the boat and panels in place, and the other hand to pull the wire with your pliers. The goal is to pull the wire tight, to create pressure that holds the plywood pieces together and then give the wire a quick twist to lock the panels in place. It does not take a lot of twisting. You should not try to generate more tension by twisting the wire more, as you will likely break the wire. Safety pliers are good at making a lot of twists in a single wire quickly, but there is no need to make lots of twists. One or two twists are enough, and you want to have a good feel on the wire so you can sense how much tension you are creating." Nick Schade
@ this makes sense because most of the force put into pulling on safety wire pliers goes into twisting them and not tensioning the wire. Thanks for the detailed reply.
Beautiful job on the Wood Duck, will you be adding epoxy fillets to the inside of all the joints or just glass tape on the outside? Skylark looks wonderful on the water, hope you get many years of joy from her.
I noticed that you twisted some of the wires clockwise and some anti-clockwise. Won't it make it much harder to do finish twisting, and cause you to undo some?
Tom is correct. The wire will be cut from the inside and pulled out. No incorrect way of twisting. I should get in the habit of twisting it the same direction which does make the final twisting more efficient. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful, Bob! Looking forward to the next steps! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very good instructional video. I will have to watch Ann's video.
Hope you like it!
Your instructional videos are an inspiration Thank you so much for all effort you put into these !!
Thanks for the kind words.
The Lark looked beautiful under sail, thank you for sharing. Can’t wait to see what you do with the wire stitching, do you remove it, fold it and squash it before covering with the fibre glass? Patience my friend, all will be answered in good time. And yes, it’s a nice looking Kayak, with nice lines, I wasn’t sure I’d like it as much as I do thinking the strip kayak was going to be my favourite, now I’m not so sure.
I built my first and second boat with gorewood technic ... Maybe the next one is a Stitch and glue canoe 🙂 great work !!!
Very nice! I would love to build a stitch and glue sailboat, but alas I don't have a place to do so. Maybe when I move I will make sure to have a shop.
Space is a concern. I hope you'll have a great space for building a boat in your future.
Thanks for watching!
I'd love to see you build an early wooden aeroplane.
That would be fun. However, I can swim much better than I can fly.
@ 😀
Coming along just great Bob. My main concern is the beveling. I'm afraid of going too heavy with the beveling or not bevel enough. How do I know when to stop? You make great videos and I'm looking forward to the Auk.
I hope you were able to see the first episode on the hull assembly. I did talk a bit more about beveling. The plywood is 3 ply so when beveling it is good to keep your eye on the outer layer once you can see it in the bevel that's a good time to stop.
Nice work Bob. There looked like there was a little void on one of the side panels near the cockpit. Did the tip break off during installation? Your tips on how to repair the flaws like the hole that did not appear to be in the correct place was informative and helpful to know that all may not be 100% perfect which could be frustrating for a first timer building a kit kayak. Thanks for sharing!
Hi David, Good eyes! Yes, as I had mentioned the kit sat for nearly 5 years. In that time it got moved several time and in doing so 2 of the fragile tips where damaged. ( my bad) I do have a plan for repair. I will make sure to show all of the steps in doing so.
New kits are in much better shape. CLC packs the kits very well to protect those fragile tips.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
Do the instructions tell you not to use safety wire pliers? Seems like they would be a lot more efficient with all those wire twists.
Safety Pliers are not the appropriate tool for stitch and Glue. Here is what Nick Schade Master Kayak Designer and builder has to say about the use of safety pliers.
"This is a very common question, and the answer is: No. The role of safety wire in the aircraft industry is to lock bolts from coming loose. To do this, there are holes in the bolt/nuts. The wire is placed to keep the bolt/nut from turning. The wire is twisted between adjacent bolts so the wire cannot move. Safety wire is not intended to be under tension. The pliers are designed to put many twists into the wire quickly, while not creating tension on the bolt.
In stitch and glue boat building, the role of the wire is to pull the panels close together, under tension. To do this, you use one hand to hold the boat and panels in place, and the other hand to pull the wire with your pliers. The goal is to pull the wire tight, to create pressure that holds the plywood pieces together and then give the wire a quick twist to lock the panels in place. It does not take a lot of twisting. You should not try to generate more tension by twisting the wire more, as you will likely break the wire.
Safety pliers are good at making a lot of twists in a single wire quickly, but there is no need to make lots of twists. One or two twists are enough, and you want to have a good feel on the wire so you can sense how much tension you are creating." Nick Schade
@ this makes sense because most of the force put into pulling on safety wire pliers goes into twisting them and not tensioning the wire. Thanks for the detailed reply.
Which viscosity ca glue were you using?
It's thick gap filling CA from Satellite City
Beautiful job on the Wood Duck, will you be adding epoxy fillets to the inside of all the joints or just glass tape on the outside? Skylark looks wonderful on the water, hope you get many years of joy from her.
Hi Tom, Yes, epoxy fillets inside, glass on the inside and outside.
Thanks, looking forward to sailing season!
Thanks for watching.
muy buenas explicaciones . una consulta el adhesivo que usaste en la cubierta es cianoacrilato ¿¿¿¿¿
Correcto, es cianoacrilato.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding ❤
Looking goo. Seems fragile. Guess that will improve with the epoxy and glass.🙂🙂
Yes it looks fragile now but it will become very strong when the epoxy and glass are added.
I noticed that you twisted some of the wires clockwise and some anti-clockwise. Won't it make it much harder to do finish twisting, and cause you to undo some?
I am not sure how Bob will remove the wires but most folks cut them and then pull em out, no need to untwist.
@@tomtruesdale6901 I was under the impression that he still had to do final twist/tighten before the could epoxy fillet.
Tom is correct. The wire will be cut from the inside and pulled out. No incorrect way of twisting. I should get in the habit of twisting it the same direction which does make the final twisting more efficient.
Thanks for watching!