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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- If you struggle with hemming or topstitching stretchy fabric, this video will help you find the right settings and stitches for your machine. I compare all of them and give tips on how to sew them without making the hem wavy. Learn more about twin needles, coverstitch machines, and a variety of single needle stitches for your sewing machine.
This video mentions the option of using double sided washaway tape, which you can find here (Amazon affiliate link - I may earn commissions for purchases made through this link): amzn.to/3Vo0a3P
Some videos you may also like:
Walking Foot/Knit Foot - • The Best Sewing Machin...
Stretch Stitches and Stretch Thread (for Knit Seams) - • What is a Stretch Stit...
Supplies for Sewing Knit Fabrics (make sure to watch this one if you get skipped stitches using a single needle - which is nearly always due to using the wrong needle type or a dull needle) - • Sew Stretchy Fabrics E...
Sign up here for a free DIY one week email course on how to sew stretchy knit fabric, including videos and homework assignments: sewpdf.com/diy-sew-stretchy-b...
TIME STAMPS:
00:34 - How to Avoid Wavy Hems
02:02 - Standard Stretch Stitches
02:43 - Coverstitch (Professional Hems)
04:51 - Twin Needle Tips
08:05 - Twin Needle Demo
11:49 - Other Stitch Options (My Favorites!)
Sew PDF is your source for plenty of FREE sewing tutorials (from beginner to advanced), and a one-stop-shop for high quality printable PDF sewing patterns from pattern designers all over the world! Many of our sewing patterns also have projector files, for those that are set up to project directly onto fabric for pattern cutting.
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excellent video! no music and clear vocals along with exceptional tips for sewing stretching materials. thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Your tutorial videos for knits have been so helpful! I now am going to stop arguing with the twin needle it's not worth it. Thank you so much for your helpful videos! I've watched a few from different people but yours have been the best.
Thank you so much, I'm glad it was helpful!
You speak SO well on camera! Lol thanks for this video!! I literally spent hours unsuccessfully attempting to sew the most beautiful polyester/spandex fabric recently. It killed my spirit.. Thanks for helping me learn!
Thank you, glad you found it helpful! The biggest thing with high spandex fabric is to use a stretch needle, not ballpoint :)
I'm just learning to sew knits on my sewing machine. I started with a super cheap (thin stretch fabric) so I don't feel bad at all that the project is not going to get an A plus. I learned a lot in the process. So much is experimenting I guess.
Just figured out why my twin needle stitches have become undone. I was back stitching. Thank you thank you
Oh good! Another trick is to pull the threads to the back and tie them off.
Just what I searched for. I liked your edits. We don’t need to see you sew. Wish more did that. A very comprehensive video on stretch seams. Thanks
Thank you, glad it was helpful!
Great presentation. To the point! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
So it all worked!!!!
Triple Stitch w/Walking Foot 3.5/2.5 w/ #1 Thread Tension and #1 Presser Foot Adj. or......
Twin Needle 3.5/5.0 w/#4 Thread Tension and #1 Presser Foot Adj.
Came out great but I then tried all this with "Ultra Bonding Tape" and it came out Perfect!
Thanks for all your great videos and patience helping me!
Your Are a Goddess!
Oh I'm so glad you finally found the right combo!!
Thank you🎉 that was very helpful. I made my first soft knit top and it was a big trial and error with the twin needle. I kept thinking zig zag stitch would look awful but you really got me excited trying the triple and seeing your other stitches will definitely make look at the various options on my sewing machine.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful!
Really appreciate and thankful for your excellent attention to detail!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
this has been the most helpful vid on this topic!! i love tee shirts but because i'm bigger they are always too long. i all way have to adjust the fit. this will make life sooo much easier!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Looking forward to more . Thank you ☺️
Thank you! I have more in the works for sure 😊
Great video and, like you, I've had limited success with twin needle sewing despite playing with adjustments etc. Your presentation is very professional - great job!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
So many people say this. Yet I love twin needle hems. All I can say is practice on scrap at the depth level of the seam. And play with stitch length and pressure foot. Sometimes different threads are better with twin. Also it shouldn’t make a difference but going slowly helps on mine.
I sew a lot of jersey and I wouldn’t be without my twin needles. But they do have to be stretch. Not universal.
I am so thrilled I ran into your vlog!!! I'd love to see a video on a self stretchy waistband on for leggings. I hold my breath every time and I've ruined lots of pants
A self stretchy waistband is sewn the same way as other types of bands and cuffs, this video should help with that: th-cam.com/video/-Q27zanzGgs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Uz1tMXGRTSG81a0s Also make sure your settings and stitches are right for sewing with stretch fabrics, here are a couple more videos about that:
th-cam.com/video/_ea7gT90r7w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bpKCygortU1Vj6r2
th-cam.com/video/Fk604ObY7Xs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hPuTLBpkTKCFuu5U
Thank you!@@SewPDF
Thank you very much!! This was VERY helpful!! I will be saving this for sure….
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips! Thank you
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Very clear and honest. Loved it - I will try out your suggestions. Thanks!
Thank you, I'm glad it was helpful!
Very informative video. Thank you x
Glad you enjoyed it!
This was the best explanation I’ve seen and I have watched several videos about hemming stretchy fabrics. Subscribed!! 👍👍
Thank you so much!
This is fantastic. Thank you so much. I've been sewing a lot with stretch knit and found your video extremely helpful. You speak clearly and explain things very well.
Thank you for the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful for you!
Very helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
This last weekend I was in such distress over shortening two rayon/ spandex dresses. Finally I bought wash away and lowered my tension to #4 on my machine along with the stretch setting. I also used the straight stitch. I finally got a straight stitch I was satisfied with. I was advised to use a longer stitch length. I used #3 length.
I have to use my serger then my machine. My machine is a #650 Viking Opal.
Thank you for this video.
Glad you got it figured out!
Great tips !!!
Glad it was helpful!
I love my twin needle for knit hems.
Yes, I always recommend that people try all the stitch options out and see which ones they like, since lots of people have different preferences :)
And, thanks for confirming my conclusion that a coverstitch machine is a luxury in that it only hems. I can't justify the expense for myself.
I finally sold my giant paper weight a couple of months ago, haha!
That said, as I mentioned I have friends who love theirs and use it all the time. So it's totally a personal preference.
Hi Adrienne, I am so thrilled I came across this video, thank you for helping ease my stress when considering sewing with thin knits. @1:07 - I don't think I have a way to loosen the presser foot pressure on my Pfaff Creative Vision. It does have the awesome IDT system, or built-in walking foot, so I think that will do the trick. :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for your very though video on how to sew a hem on stretchy fabric. I’m still very new to working with knit so I appreciate the tips.
The only thing I would comment on is when showing your examples if you could bring the example a lot closer to the camera. That would be really helpful. Thanks again.
Thank you for the feedback, that is very helpful as I just moved to a new house and will be setting up a filming area!
This video is so well done. I love the short clear intro, the message is packed with information without any distractions. Very professional.
I have a question. The double needle; do I thread both threads into the machine at the same time or individually?
Glad it was helpful! I thread mine one at a time :)
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks for this information I’m new and until now only used 100% cotton fabrics. But I have a project I’m working on with spandex fabric. I have a serger and am learning slowly but surely to get it threaded and used. It can be frustrating. 😊
Threading is the hardest part, but keep practicing, it will get much easier!
I was very interested in your video but was surprised that you didn’t bring your samples toward the camera so that we could see the results. It would have made a tremendous difference. I’m in the middle stages of cataracts and struggle to see anything that isn’t close with plenty of light.
I'm sorry to hear that and will keep that in mind in future. Thank you for letting me know.
Yeeeees!!! Thank you 🙏🏽
You're welcome, glad it helped!
Ive just spent all day ripping out a garment like 8 times trying to sew with a twin needle and the stitches would always come out when I stretched it.
Now I’m going to toss that twin needle and just use the triple stitch. That will work so much better!!
Thank you .
Knit fabric is not something I’m good at for sure.
I would recommend taking some scraps and practicing on those first, before sewing your garment. I have some other videos on sewing with knit fabrics that would be helpful as you figure out the ideal settings for your machine with knits :)
This is a great video! I've really learned a lot from you. I do have a question about double needle threading -- how do you keep it from tangling? Mine gets terribly tangled between the thread guides and the needles. Thank you!
I'm sorry I can't help with that, as I did not have that issue with my machine, so I've never had to troubleshoot it
Wow, thank you. Never used the washable tape...would like to hear the pros and cons....does it wear down your needle more, placement for hems on full skirts and etc? And would like recommendation on where to purchase....i hate adding to the supply list. My old machine had the presser foot adj, and i didnt have to deal with this. But alas, my new machine didnt and now with and add’l $50 purch for a walking foot, i feel a little had. I appreciate your insights.
I get mine on Amazon (amzn.to/34hMK4w - affiliate link). I don't find that it wears down my needles, but I don't use it for hemming much (it has lots of other really useful applications though!). I use triple stitch on really stretchy knits and the honeycomb on more structured knits like cotton lycra and french terry. These stitch types come out well for me on my machine without the tape. Have you tried reducing the presser foot pressure on your new machine?
For me the only downside of using the tape is that it can take a long time to apply (depends on how long the seam is, and curves are a real pain since you have to cut multiple small pieces). But it's worth it in a long of situations for the outcome, and not having to fight to get the fabric to stay in place while sewing.
Sorry it took so long to approve this comment - I didn't realize my settings were holding all comments for review (oops!), and I didn't get any notifications that comments were held for review!
would it work to use a permanent non-stretch fabric strip in place of the washaway strip?
It would only work if you fused the stretchy fabric to the non stretch fabric, and if you are fusing anyways then you could just fuse the hem up and skip the fabric insert. This would also stabilize it as fusible webbing is generally not stretchy.
Loved your video. I learned a lot.....Things I never knew before and you were so clear in your explanations so thanks! I struggle greatly with hemming knit fabrics. They always come out wavy plus I manage to stretch out the whole top as I sew. I thought using the walking foot and adjusting the tension and stitch length would definitely solve all my issues but they did not. I followed all your recommendations and still..... a wavy hem. I just ordered the wash away tape. I really hope this helps! I do have a question.....is there any way to shrink back the top that I stretched? I rinsed it in water and then hung it to dry but it still remains stretched out. Any thought on how I can save this top or is it just too late?
Hi Maria - it may be a matter of fabric choice, some knit fabrics stretch out much more easily than others - especially if there is not spandex content in them (also known as Lycra or Elastane - brands of spandex). I would suggest watching this video, it may help: th-cam.com/video/kKllY5D-C74/w-d-xo.html
If the top you already stretched is made from a fabric with poor stretch recovery, then unfortunately there is no way to shrink it back. If it does have spandex, try a stream press or a hot wash, which should help the fibers to shrink back into place - but if it has been stretched a lot, this may only help and not completely fix it.
Does your machine have an option to turn down your presser foot pressure? If not, you may want to consider upgrading your machine, as you can only do so much without this feature. If the walking foot isn't cutting it, perhaps the presser foot presser on your machine is just too much. But if all else fails, the wash away tape should help immensely!
@@SewPDF Well that explains why I'm struggling so much! No.....unfortunately my machine, a Brother CS6000i, does not have that pressure foot option. I did order the wash away tape, so I'll give that a try. The fabric has no spandex so that explains why it is not recovering. Thanks for explaining that ! Now I can pay attention to the type of fabric I am buying in the future. I may not ever buy or try to alter this type of fabric ever again. It's truly a nightmare! What type of sewing machine do you recommend? I was even thinking of purchasing a serger. Does a serger prevent wavy hems better?
@@maria3987 Sergers have something called differential feed which does help a lot with seams, but you can't use a serger to hem, so you're still going to need a sewing machine for that. I have had very good luck with my Janome machines for hemming knits, one of them even does an amazing job without a walking foot. They were on the pricey side of their range though - they are not entry level machines. I'm not sure if a lower end Janome would do as well. I have heard excellent things about Pfaff, Bernina, and Husqvarna as well. I think the key is to invest in a machine that is higher quality - you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to sewing machines. If that doesn't work with your budget you could look for an older used machine, from when they were metal and not electronic. The old Kenmore machines are great, pretty much unbreakable.
@@SewPDF Funny...every time I think about buying a serger, there's a reason I don't and you just gave me yet another reason not to waste my money.
I have my mom's old sewing machine. It's called '"White" and it's got t be 40 + years old. It's extremely heavy. Not sure if it has a presser foot adjustment setting but there's something called a "bobbin tension" setting. I have to make time to really take a look at it. I'll let you know it it works! Thanks for all your advise!
@@maria3987 yeah the older machines typically don't have that setting but it's worth giving it a shot to see if it works better with a walking foot than your Brother. In my experience usually a walking foot will do the trick with machines that can't be adjusted - but not always. I do love my serger, it makes sewing knits so much faster, but it's important to know that you can't hem with it. I do have a couple of videos on sergers as well.
Will the fusible hem tape solve my problem with trying to turn up trouser hems on 3 pairs of trousers made from 95% polyester and 5% elastane velvety material. My machine stitches for about 1 inch then refuses to stitch , its not my machine as it works perfectly on other fabrics. Hope it will as I don't really want to have to hand stitch each pair.
Sounds like a needle problem to me, what kind are you using?
I’m still confused about when I use the ball point/jersey vs stretch needle for knits and stretch and interlock . Is stretch needle for when the fabric contains Lycra/spandex?
Yes, stretch needle is best for high stretch fabrics with lycra/spandex. Ballpoint/jersey is better with loose sweater knits
So I took your advice and purchased a Janome. Mine is the 412OQDC. I love it but still getting wavy hems. The fabric I am using is stretchy with little recovery. I have tried lowering the presser foot adjustment dial but that doesn't work and if I go too low, it just eats the fabric. I tried the walking foot and still a wavy hem. I even tried using the double needle instead and still the same problem even with ultra light bonding tape. I even played around with the thread tension dial. There has got to be something I am doing wrong no?
One of my machines is nearly identical to that one, that's the one I used for these tests with a walking foot and rib knit fabric with poor stretch recovery: th-cam.com/video/8jFawqG1UkQ/w-d-xo.html I'm baffled as to what could be causing different results for you. What kind of stitch are you using? Are you sure you're not pulling on the fabric, just letting the machine feed it through?
Are the waves at least less? Minor waviness will go away with a good steam press.
@@SewPDF Yes. The waves are longer, every few inches, & pressing doesn't help. Still can't get the fabric to lay flat.
@@SewPDF I am going to try a few more things and write you back. I was going to throw in the towel but I'm too mad to stop! I write you back later. Is that okay?
Of course! If you would like help with further troubleshooting later, pictures of your settings would be quite helpful
Is it the same for hemming strectch jeans
If it is skinny jeans you definitely need a stretch stitch to hem. But if its a boot cut or bigger and you don't need to stretch the hem to put them on, you can just use a regular straight stitch.
Did you say you just use maxilock for hemming and seams?
I use maxilock stretch thread in my bobbin when I want the hem stitches to be extra stretchy and strong. I use regular thread in the top thread. For seams I use regular maxilock in my serger.
I have no waviness, I have the problem of rolling. How do you stop the hem from rolling
Wide hems will help - 3/4" to 1 inch. Sometimes they will still roll a bit, but if you take the item out of the dryer while it's still warm and press the hems down with your fingers to ensure they are flat while they cool, this works quite well. Or hang to dry and make sure hem is down while drying.
When you had just a hint of tunneling you can just shorten your stitch slightly and the tunneling will be gone.
Great tip, thank you!
Try a baby lock cover stitch . You will change your mind.
I believe you! I wish I could splurge on one of those! It definitely seems like it's well worth the extra money from what I've heard.
What does the "pressure foot" dial read? tension?
Hi Sandra - the presser foot pressure setting is different than tension. Not all machines have this setting. You can learn more about it in this video: th-cam.com/video/_ea7gT90r7w/w-d-xo.html
@@SewPDF Thank you. My machine does not show a presser foot dial, then.
I bought the cover stitch machine you have, or at least that you had when you made this video. It's a terrible machine. I replaced it with a Babylock that never skips stitches. I would guess there are other CS machines that work well also. But the one you have is a hopeless dog that does indeed skip stitches All. The. Time.. I hated it so much I named it Mephisto.
LOL good to know I'm not the only one. I have heard that from many people too that it skips stitches no matter what they do, but one of my closest friends has one that works just fine, I don't know what magic settings she uses haha. I tried all the tips I could find online, it did improve but never fully stopped skipping. I got rid of it, if I ever get one again, it will be a Babylock.
Sewing for 25 years? How is that possible? You look to be in your 20s.
That is very nice to hear but up close, the white in my hair would give me away haha. I turned 40 this year ;)
@@SewPDF Well you wear it exceptionally well!