1920's Model Train Transformer: Vintage Tech Time!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มี.ค. 2021
- On today's video I attempt to repair a pre-WWII model electric train transformer. I perform an in-depth electrical characterization of the transformer, and finally, I figure out a way to use it as a charger for my laptop, electric skateboard, and a whole bunch of other portable devices.
If you choose to do anything you see in this video yourself, you are doing so at your own risk.
Thanks for watching! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This guy is like StyroPyro's slightly more sane little brother.
Great vid! I've started a new hobby: collecting and repairing old transformers. Got bored during the virus days. I do not buy them on Ebay, as the shipping cost more than they're worth. I go to a local train show/swap and usually get nice old ones [pre-1950 ] that still work for $5 each. Usually it's just the cord that's going bad. Trans with bad cords normally get thrown out or sell for a buck each. Nobody wants to bother with them. I've got over 80 Lionel, Marx and American Flyer transformers . The older pre-war ones can be dangerous ,as most do not have a re-set button that will "pop" if the transformer gets left on while a train truck is not properly on the track. This causes a short. The re-set button is nothing more than a small bi-metal strip that easily bends when the unit shorts out, causing it to overheat. The most I've paid was $70 for a big 1940's dual control Lionel "Train Master", the holy grail of Lionel transformers. There are many different types and styles. They are easily refinished and look great scattered about the shop. They make great book ends and conversation pieces, going back to a time when products were built to last.
That's fantastic! And believe it or not, the one in the video is still in service to this day, 2 years later! Charges batteries and powers computers 12-16 hours a day!
I believe it. Old things can be repaired and were made to last. I got started buying 1930's and 40's Marx trains, like those that I had as a kid during the 50's. Dad bought a set for my older brother just as the war started. Most of the toy makers went into defense and stopped making toys during the war years. Today, few people want the old Marx train engines. I buy them routinely for 10-15 dollars each. Sometimes less. They are solid metal and are usually frozen solid from years of non-use. Extremely easy to re-wire, bypassing the E unit, which is usually the culprit if they don't work. Oil them up and away they go! Transformers are the same. Very cheap. A dealer told me he never repairs them, as it takes too much time and nobody wants them anyway. He brought me a box of about 20 for a buck each. All 1930's and 40's Only 2 were toast. Got all working fine. Started on the trains during the co. vid. Something to do with the grandkids. Great hobby and the old Marx is dirt cheap. Most transformers are dirt cheap too. Some of the older big ones are in demand. Check them out. The Lionel and American Flyer companies turned out some really neat looking ones. I'm old, retired and have nothing better to do. I tell the kids, "Old is good, new is bad." In this throw away world, it's nice to bring something older than me back to life. Keep having fun!
After posting my comment I went ahead and opened up the transformer and the good and bad is that the entire inside has been sealed in tar as an insulator it's an immaculate shape and sealed away. I think that's probably the best for the time period. So any rewiring of the plug will have to be from the outside. Fun thing about these antiques you never know what you're going to get.
I found your channel because I have a similar transformer. I plan to do a similar project, but not to turn it into a charger for that it could possibly damage any modern electronics. My plan was to turn it into a more general decorative lamp for my desk with a Tesla style. It has a fairly high cycle rate, with a 75 watt output. With four posts it has a different combination for each voltage depending on how you would hook up your posts. And is designed also for a third rail railroad track. If you have any advice it would be appreciated. Love the channel, glad to see someone else thinks this way too. I do a lot with antique tech.
Sounds like a fantastic project! 75 watts should definitely be sufficient to drive a sizable low-voltage lamp, and I'm sure it will look amazing!
If you're going to supply it directly from mains power, you will definitely want to install an inline fuse or other current-limiting device upstream of the transformer. It may also be necessary to decrease the supply voltage, as many of these were designed to operate at 110 volts.
Best of luck with your project!
@@DielectricVideos it says 100 to 120 volts and 50 to 133 cycles. It's a Jefferson Midget toy transformer. Thanks for the help.
I was planning on using a screw in bulb fuse as a limiter to stick with the era. What effect on your power supply does the cycling switch have? I'm not sure what that would do to a lighting element. I'm still building this out of as many vintage parts as I can scrounge up I've worked on other pieces like this before. This will be my first fully functioning one. I was also considering a knife switch, to use as the main switch for the light. But I may have another configuration in mind. I still want this to be safe as much as possible knowing that a lot of this old tech was not.
A bulb in series is a great idea for current-limiting, although you will want to size a fairly high wattage one to be sure there isn't too much voltage drop across it when under load.
I used a frequency converter to run mine at 400 Hz, which in turn allowed it to operate at a very high input voltage (about 240 volts). As a result, I was able to get much higher power transfer than at 60 Hz and 120 volts. For an incandescent lighting load (or even a rectified LED lighting load), frequency shouldn't matter much. If you want to be time period-accurate, there aren't many great ways to change line frequency, though.
The knife switch is a very cool idea! As you mentioned, the safety of the system is important to consider. These old transformers don't always have great primary-to-secondary isolation, so if you're connecting it directly to mains power, the knife switch could become live. If you power it from an isolated source like an inverter or isolation transformer, it's quite a bit safer. A GFCI would also improve safety if you want it connected straight to the mains.
Let me know how it goes!
@@DielectricVideos I was planning on using a GFI mounted to the wooden base but I'm putting it on, to plug the lamp power source into similar to the setup you had in your video that way wherever it goes it would be a GFI outlet no matter where I was plugging it in. I would just put any modern tech inside old casings. It'll look a little haphazard but a lot of things were around that general time.
Really, you are the creator of my friend John
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@Xzavier Franklin definitely, been using flixzone for since december myself :D
do you still have the nfc implant if not when and why did u remove it
I do still have the implant! I use the 13.56MHz NFC side of it to do keyless interlocking on machinery, and I also have the URL to my website loaded onto it for friends with NFC readers to scan. It's been working very well and hasn't given me any issues!