scott this is Paul in Ireland many thanks for your videos , i changed fuel filter and fixed window mechanism through your guidence in videos , well done
Thanks Scott, was very helpful seeing you pull the filter out of its housing before I tried to unscrew the shaft down the centre of it with my 24" stilsons LOL, no worries thanks again.
Hi there Scott,I replaced my diesel filter a few weeks back, Not a technical job but awkward for me due to lack of space to undo/tighten the 3 x T bolts. I re-used the original pipe clips as they levered off real easy with small flat blade screwdriver. But cost savings were made which is always Grrrreat!!!! I trust you are well and will catch you some time on the MB forum Best regardsB
MB ASRA/WIS advises that you charge the fuel filter with diesel by leaving the ignition on for a minimum of 15 seconds before starting the engine after this filter change. This is because mechanical damage can occur if no fuel is present on the filtered side of the fuel delivery system. You can hear the electric fuel pump whirring and then stopping after around 15 seconds when doing this. Then it's safe to start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
@@Lorenzo622 IIRC yes, the pump takes care of it with the ignition on but without attempting to start/turn the engine, the pump is quite audible and cuts out presumably on sufficient fuel pressure. I didn't have any issues with starting after this, ie. no need to bleed as this happens automatically. Very easy procedure.
THX for the info Steve, but there is still some air left after you prime the filter in the hose behind the filter. Is it ok to do te same procedure like when you placed new injector. 1: prime 2:start & immediately go to 3000 rpm to blow the air true the injectors.
@@DieLechtaler from my experience doing many of these filter changes, the amount of air before the filter housing is neglible and won't affect the vehicle starting, the air will be purged or bled very quickly. This assumes that the vehicle had sufficient fuel to the filter housing before swapping the filter. To some extent the system is self-bleeding, but if you are really concerned about air entering the feed to hose to the housing a simple pipe clamp should seal the hose before removal from the filter housing, this would also stop the fuel "returning" to the tank, though the pump from the tank is also non-return. If the hose is disconnected for a prolonged period of time I would say it's wise to clamp it shut, for the purposes of a filter swap, I think it's a 15 minute job and not likely to cause issues.
Thanks for the transmission info, I know nothing about autos. My transmission guy stopped short of stating the auto was not serviced properly. MB considers commercial vehicles a lower priority than passenger cars. His words not mine!.... Lesson learnt... This is why I'm asking lots of question, once again, thanks for all the information and videos.
Karen you hit the nail on the head. I was told the same thing by one of the MB dealers that they don't care too much about the Vitos and Sprinters. I'd bet money your transmission was not serviced properly. They definitely need the ATF + filter changed every 50,000 to 60,000km or 4 to 5 years.
Thanks for this. I was always weary of spraying water under the bonnet because of the electrics, a bit like pressure washing the wheels and brakes where you could do more damage than good. I'll have a go when I do the fuel filter and see if I can tidy the old girl up a bit. Cheers
I doubt if the missing pipe has anything to do with it. My car has the same fuel filter and it doesn't have a pipe at all. You could put a piece suitably sized tubing onto to it. Are you sure it's not leaking from the inlet or outlet hoses as they're under a fair bit of pressure?
Thanks Scott, the reset works perfectly as per your instructions. I have a 2004, 115cdi with 1/2million k's which I run on 100% biofuel, gearbox has died, but is being reconditioned as I txt. Oil change every 10,000 with 10w 40 semi synthetic, any more info on this vehicle would be greatly appreciated....
500,000km's ... wow that's impressive. I use Penrite 5w-40 HPR5 fully synthetic and change it once per year. I've got the oil change coming up so I'll get the camera out again. With the auto gearbox I think it's important to do the ATF and filter every 50,000 km. With a recon unit I'd probably to a an ATF and filter change at about 30,000km initially after it's run in then every 50,000 to 60,000 km's thereafter.
Hi Scott, MInd if i pick you brain? I changed my fuel filter and forgot to replace the water sensor / overflow pipe (it was getting dark when i put it back together) now i have a fuel leak for a minute or two when i start up. Will this be because of the missing pipe? (pipe has gone missing) There seems to be diesel at the filter and also at the back of the fuel filter. Were the other end of the pipe leads to i believe. Any thoughts? Thanks for the helpful videos by the way.
Thanks. I think you'd have to take a lot of the wiring harness from the Viano and control modules are probably different to. Inquire on some of the Mercedes forums like www.benzworld.org
Hi Scott, do you know where the AIT sensor is located? Also what is it attached to? After reading forums it's suggested that I have to remove the front bumper and grill. The Sensor is below the area of the nearside headlight. Is this correct? My sensor is just sitting behind the grille, as I could never figure out where to mount it or what to do with it. For now, I just want to make sure that the AIT sensor doesn't contribute to the starter problem and get this out of the way first before ordering new parts etc. As for the starting problem, isn't it weird that the van has no problems starting up when the engine has cooled down. It doesn't start when it's warmed up. If the starter motor is faulty, shouldn't it not start at all? Also there are no lights on the dashboard. Would a scanner bring up any faulty codes with nothing showing on the dashboard? Sorry about all the questions, any advice appreciated! Thank you! I found this diagram and the part in the top image looks like my sensor part that hangs behind the grill. ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Chezario/2011-10-07_130758_w639_remove_install_charge_air_temperature_sensor.pdf
+sandra freeman The charge air temp sensor is located in the engine inlet pipe as the name of it suggests. I can't see how it would be behind the grille. You should be able to remove it from underneath on the LHS of the engine on the intake pipe to the manifold. So the sensor is on the engine basically. Maybe you're referring to the outside air temperature sensor which is located under the LH headlight. You can get to that by pulling out a few clips in the lower paneling. B14 is it's reference I'd be getting the vehicle plugged into DAS/Xentry to see what error codes are present. Not all faults show up on the dashboard.
Thanks Scott you supplied the DIY info I needed by this video a few weeks back but now I have a warning light on my vito telling me water in fuel warning but the Vito doesnt have a bleeding nipple like most filters that are on the underside of them, would you happen to know how to bleed of the water?
+John Higgins John I haven't had that issue before. Check the connector on the water sensor that's inserted into the fuel filter as that's where the signal would be coming from I suspect. I'll have a look in the WIS about bleeding water and make a comment back here. Scott
+Scott Elliott John it's in the owners manual. You turn the ignition on and turn the collar on the water sensor in the fuel filter. This is a valve that opens when you turn the collar and the water should pump out of the rubber hose.
Like the videos as there seems to be a general lack of info out there for any servicing issues on the Vito. How the hell do you keep the engine bay so clean? I have a 2010 Vito and it's a real mess under the bonnet. Keep up the good work.
Karen thanks for the compliment. I buy all my filters from the UK as the yare much cheaper. I bought the fuel filter from here: au.micksgarage.com/ They have an eBay store as well. kind regards, Scott
MrScott52 Hi I have a lot of turbo lag before 2500rpm on my 2005 115cdi Vito Automatic and cant find a manual or info on how to set the actuator. Do you know anything about the turbos. It shifts from 1st to 2nd gear very quickly and has a motor vibration on acceleration but not on throttle overrun. Thanks
Hey Scott grate and helpful video , I have couple of questions please, can the fuel filter be cleaned so we don't have to buy one for $100? And do we change the fuel filter only when the light on the dash board lights up ? I just bought the van couple of weeks ago and don't know when was the last time the previous owner changed it the van runs grate .
No the fuel filter is a sealed unit so can't be cleaned. $100 is very expensive ... I pay about half that from here: www.brettstruck.com.au/p/9331719/fs0035-fuel-filter-merc-benz-vito-109cdi-van-w639-turbo-4-cyl-22l-diesel-om646-dohc-0404-on-vito-120cdi-van-w639-30l-turbo-diesel-om642la-dohc-022007-on-vito-w639-m642-6-30l-diesel-tdi-2007-2010-vito-w639-om646982-om646983-4-22l-.html With normal use and clean quality fuel I change my fuel filter about every 20,000km.
Ya thank you for the link . I went on the link you gave me and I found a similar van discription as mine on the list of vehicles that this filter fits. The only difference is that they listed vito 115 2.2 liters, min in 2.1 liters is that going to be ok?
@@geomaj1 Yes that's just the way some stores name the engine. The 4 cylinders (109, 111, 115 etc) are all 2,148cc ... some say 2.1 litres and others say 2.2 litres. According to the normal rules of mathematics when you round 2.148 litres to one decimal place it should be stated as 2.1.
+Jaime Marún No Jaime as I don't have any mates with that model. I think the fuel filter is at the back of the engine and is similar to the Vito. It's held in place with a clamp and has a hose coming in and a hose going out. It may also have the water level sensor like the Vito. Regards, Scott
Hi Scott, after changing my own fuel filter, cant tell you how good it felt when I turned on the ignition and it all worked. Best of all, there is a BIG difference when driving, esp when accelerating! I've done the oil and oil filter and now will tackle the window regulator. However, a new problem has come up and I was wondering whether it might have to do with the fuel filter change. Problem with Starter Motor? The car starts when it's cold, but not when it's hot. I can drive somewhere and as long as I leave it for a few hours it will start up. Otherwise it will only make a "Click" sound and nothing else will happen, it'll just go click when I turn the key. When I called the NRMA, thinking flat battery, they told me after some questions that it most probably is a broken starter motor. But why were they asking when the van last had a oil and/or a fuel filter change? I told them both were done recently, to which they responded that it must be the starter motor. What has the fuel filter got to do with it. Thanks for any advice you might have. (btw I cleaned the battery terminals with Bi-carb soda)
+sandra freeman Can't see how the fuel filter would be involved or an oil change. Probably the starter solenoid and or motor. Fortunately they're available quite cheaply off eBay in the UK. Maybe try locally as well. I don't think a new starter is difficult to fit. www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSD104-Starter-Motor-Solenoid-Mercedes-Vito-108-109-110-111-112-113-115-2-2-CDI-/261661252071?hash=item3cec39d9e7:g:-nIAAOSwyTZUXOg3 www.ebay.com.au/itm/Starter-Motor-Mercedes-Benz-Sprinter-Vito-109CDI-111CDI-115CDI-Turbo-Diese-95-06-/261706570287?fits=Model%3AVito|Plat_Gen%3AW639&hash=item3ceeed5a2f:g:dFEAAOSw7NNULq21 You'd need to check to make sure the right part numbers are ordered. The above are just examples.
Thanks for your quick reply, will give it a try. There seems to be a lack of information about these vehicles anywhere, and MB want to charge an arm and a leg for any service work, any info is greatly appreciated!
Their charges are just too much for me to bear! Have you done an oil change yet? They are one of the easiest vehicles to work on as you've got plenty of room to get to things. The oil plus filter change is really easy so I can't bring myself to pay $400 to $450 for such a simple task done by a 17 year old apprentice.
Thanks. There's no hand pump and there's no procedure in the Mercedes WIS. If the system had to be bled it would be in the video. After the new filter is installed just turn the ignition on and wait for a while as the fuel is pumped into the filter and start the engine. It takes a bit more cranking to get the pressure up but it starts and off you go.
great video Scott...Just to be clear do I need to prime the filter by filling it up with diesel before turning the ignition on for 15 seconds and then the engine can be started? Thanks
All done smoothly even the origional hose clamps went back on without issue. Just a note that my filter had no wires or plugs to remove just the 2 fuel lines. 👍
5w-40 HPR5 Penrite Fully Synthetic. I wait until it's on special and pick up two 5 litre containers at about $60 each. You need about 9.0 litres for an oil + filter change. So you need a big container when you undo the sump plug.
Hi Scott How often the fuel filter has to be changed? And how about the Transmission oil? My Vito 2013 122cdi has done 60,000km, Is it a good time to change transmission oil & fuel filter? Thanks for you useful videos in advance which has saved me to spend lots $$$
Just done one yes the filter plastic housing incorporates a water pipe into the cylinder head it leaks coolant from the seal common fault. Modified part available from dealer absolute nightmare to fit.
Thanks. This was one of my earlier videos. The production quality isn't too good compared to what creators make these days. I'm gradually getting better at it! Regards, Scott
Hi Karen. This is how I do mine: 1. Turn key to position 2. 2. Keep pressing the "M"button in and out until you get to the distance/time remaining for service. 3. Within 10 seconds turn the key back to position "0" and then press and hold the "M" button in and don't release it. 4. While still holding the "M" button in, turn the key back to position 2 and after about 10 seconds you'll get a beep and a new distance remaining figure will be displayed. 5. Now let go of the "M" button.
![โกหกเธอทั้งนั้น (Pinocchio) - SERIOUS BACON [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P1HhTYwrR5A/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Scott, I've been searching for my fuel filter for ages!
scott this is Paul in Ireland many thanks for your videos , i changed fuel filter and fixed window mechanism through your guidence in videos , well done
+paul gilbert Thanks Paul. I'm happy to help out and like seeing people save themselves a bundle of cash. Regards, Scott
Thanks Scott, was very helpful seeing you pull the filter out of its housing before I tried to unscrew the shaft down the centre of it with my 24" stilsons LOL, no worries thanks again.
What no sledgehammer! Glad it was helpful.
Hi there Scott,I replaced my diesel filter a few weeks back, Not a technical job but awkward for me due to lack of space to undo/tighten the 3 x T bolts. I re-used the original pipe clips as they levered off real easy with small flat blade screwdriver. But cost savings were made which is always Grrrreat!!!! I trust you are well and will catch you some time on the MB forum Best regardsB
MB ASRA/WIS advises that you charge the fuel filter with diesel by leaving the ignition on for a minimum of 15 seconds before starting the engine after this filter change. This is because mechanical damage can occur if no fuel is present on the filtered side of the fuel delivery system. You can hear the electric fuel pump whirring and then stopping after around 15 seconds when doing this. Then it's safe to start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Steven Tux Thanks Steven. I was aware of that and followed that procedure but didn't mention it. I'll put a note on the video to remind viewers.
So is that how you prime the filter on these? By turning the ignition?
@@Lorenzo622 IIRC yes, the pump takes care of it with the ignition on but without attempting to start/turn the engine, the pump is quite audible and cuts out presumably on sufficient fuel pressure. I didn't have any issues with starting after this, ie. no need to bleed as this happens automatically. Very easy procedure.
THX for the info Steve, but there is still some air left after you prime the filter in the hose behind the filter. Is it ok to do te same procedure like when you placed new injector. 1: prime 2:start & immediately go to 3000 rpm to blow the air true the injectors.
@@DieLechtaler from my experience doing many of these filter changes, the amount of air before the filter housing is neglible and won't affect the vehicle starting, the air will be purged or bled very quickly. This assumes that the vehicle had sufficient fuel to the filter housing before swapping the filter. To some extent the system is self-bleeding, but if you are really concerned about air entering the feed to hose to the housing a simple pipe clamp should seal the hose before removal from the filter housing, this would also stop the fuel "returning" to the tank, though the pump from the tank is also non-return. If the hose is disconnected for a prolonged period of time I would say it's wise to clamp it shut, for the purposes of a filter swap, I think it's a 15 minute job and not likely to cause issues.
Thanks for the transmission info, I know nothing about autos. My transmission guy stopped short of stating the auto was not serviced properly. MB considers commercial vehicles a lower priority than passenger cars. His words not mine!.... Lesson learnt... This is why I'm asking lots of question, once again, thanks for all the information and videos.
Karen you hit the nail on the head. I was told the same thing by one of the MB dealers that they don't care too much about the Vitos and Sprinters. I'd bet money your transmission was not serviced properly. They definitely need the ATF + filter changed every 50,000 to 60,000km or 4 to 5 years.
Thanks for this. I was always weary of spraying water under the bonnet because of the electrics, a bit like pressure washing the wheels and brakes where you could do more damage than good. I'll have a go when I do the fuel filter and see if I can tidy the old girl up a bit. Cheers
Great video thanks Scott
Thanks Ranjeeta.
I doubt if the missing pipe has anything to do with it. My car has the same fuel filter and it doesn't have a pipe at all. You could put a piece suitably sized tubing onto to it. Are you sure it's not leaking from the inlet or outlet hoses as they're under a fair bit of pressure?
Okay thanks very much for your thoughts. I'll investigate.
Thanks Scott, the reset works perfectly as per your instructions. I have a 2004, 115cdi with 1/2million k's which I run on 100% biofuel, gearbox has died, but is being reconditioned as I txt. Oil change every 10,000 with 10w 40 semi synthetic, any more info on this vehicle would be greatly appreciated....
500,000km's ... wow that's impressive. I use Penrite 5w-40 HPR5 fully synthetic and change it once per year. I've got the oil change coming up so I'll get the camera out again. With the auto gearbox I think it's important to do the ATF and filter every 50,000 km. With a recon unit I'd probably to a an ATF and filter change at about 30,000km initially after it's run in then every 50,000 to 60,000 km's thereafter.
Hi Scott,
MInd if i pick you brain?
I changed my fuel filter and forgot to replace the water sensor / overflow pipe (it was getting dark when i put it back together) now i have a fuel leak for a minute or two when i start up. Will this be because of the missing pipe? (pipe has gone missing) There seems to be diesel at the filter and also at the back of the fuel filter. Were the other end of the pipe leads to i believe.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for the helpful videos by the way.
your awesome, mate. thanks heaps
Lol ... thanks Shane.
Hi Scott, Is the below mentioned 15 seconds of ignition on taking care of the bleeding process? (No bleed valves) Great vids BTW Cheers
Dean Keeble Yes Dean. That's what the WIS documents say to do. Thanks for your kind comment. Scott
Great videos. I am wondering if you have any suggestions on how to get electric seats and door trims switches from a viano to work in a vito 122.
Thanks. I think you'd have to take a lot of the wiring harness from the Viano and control modules are probably different to. Inquire on some of the Mercedes forums like www.benzworld.org
Hi Scott, do you know where the AIT sensor is located? Also what is it attached to?
After reading forums it's suggested that I have to remove the front bumper and grill. The Sensor is below the area of the nearside headlight. Is this correct?
My sensor is just sitting behind the grille, as I could never figure out where to mount it or what to do with it. For now, I just want to make sure that the AIT sensor doesn't contribute to the starter problem and get this out of the way first before ordering new parts etc.
As for the starting problem, isn't it weird that the van has no problems starting up when the engine has cooled down. It doesn't start when it's warmed up. If the starter motor is faulty, shouldn't it not start at all? Also there are no lights on the dashboard. Would a scanner bring up any faulty codes with nothing showing on the dashboard? Sorry about all the questions, any advice appreciated! Thank you!
I found this diagram and the part in the top image looks like my sensor part that hangs behind the grill.
ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Chezario/2011-10-07_130758_w639_remove_install_charge_air_temperature_sensor.pdf
+sandra freeman The charge air temp sensor is located in the engine inlet pipe as the name of it suggests. I can't see how it would be behind the grille. You should be able to remove it from underneath on the LHS of the engine on the intake pipe to the manifold. So the sensor is on the engine basically.
Maybe you're referring to the outside air temperature sensor which is located under the LH headlight. You can get to that by pulling out a few clips in the lower paneling. B14 is it's reference
I'd be getting the vehicle plugged into DAS/Xentry to see what error codes are present. Not all faults show up on the dashboard.
Thanks Scott you supplied the DIY info I needed by this video a few weeks back but now I have a warning light on my vito telling me water in fuel warning but the Vito doesnt have a bleeding nipple like most filters that are on the underside of them, would you happen to know how to bleed of the water?
+John Higgins John I haven't had that issue before. Check the connector on the water sensor that's inserted into the fuel filter as that's where the signal would be coming from I suspect. I'll have a look in the WIS about bleeding water and make a comment back here. Scott
+Scott Elliott John it's in the owners manual. You turn the ignition on and turn the collar on the water sensor in the fuel filter. This is a valve that opens when you turn the collar and the water should pump out of the rubber hose.
Like the videos as there seems to be a general lack of info out there for any servicing issues on the Vito.
How the hell do you keep the engine bay so clean? I have a 2010 Vito and it's a real mess under the bonnet.
Keep up the good work.
+NottsHandyman Thanks. I use a bit of degreaser from time to time and give it a good hosing down.
Great video, very thorough step by step process. Where did you get the filter from?
Karen thanks for the compliment.
I buy all my filters from the UK as the yare much cheaper. I bought the fuel filter from here: au.micksgarage.com/ They have an eBay store as well.
kind regards, Scott
MrScott52 Hi I have a lot of turbo lag before 2500rpm on my 2005 115cdi Vito Automatic and cant find a manual or info on how to set the actuator. Do you know anything about the turbos. It shifts from 1st to 2nd gear very quickly and has a motor vibration on acceleration but not on throttle overrun. Thanks
Hey Scott grate and helpful video , I have couple of questions please, can the fuel filter be cleaned so we don't have to buy one for $100?
And do we change the fuel filter only when the light on the dash board lights up ? I just bought the van couple of weeks ago and don't know when was the last time the previous owner changed it the van runs grate .
No the fuel filter is a sealed unit so can't be cleaned. $100 is very expensive ... I pay about half that from here: www.brettstruck.com.au/p/9331719/fs0035-fuel-filter-merc-benz-vito-109cdi-van-w639-turbo-4-cyl-22l-diesel-om646-dohc-0404-on-vito-120cdi-van-w639-30l-turbo-diesel-om642la-dohc-022007-on-vito-w639-m642-6-30l-diesel-tdi-2007-2010-vito-w639-om646982-om646983-4-22l-.html
With normal use and clean quality fuel I change my fuel filter about every 20,000km.
Ya thank you for the link .
I went on the link you gave me and I found a similar van discription as mine on the list of vehicles that this filter fits. The only difference is that they listed vito 115 2.2 liters, min in 2.1 liters is that going to be ok?
@@geomaj1 Yes that's just the way some stores name the engine. The 4 cylinders (109, 111, 115 etc) are all 2,148cc ... some say 2.1 litres and others say 2.2 litres. According to the normal rules of mathematics when you round 2.148 litres to one decimal place it should be stated as 2.1.
Do you have a video about the change of the fuel filter of a MB CGI C180?Thank you
+Jaime Marún No Jaime as I don't have any mates with that model. I think the fuel filter is at the back of the engine and is similar to the Vito. It's held in place with a clamp and has a hose coming in and a hose going out. It may also have the water level sensor like the Vito. Regards, Scott
Hi Scott, after changing my own fuel filter, cant tell you how good it felt when I turned on the ignition and it all worked. Best of all, there is a BIG difference when driving, esp when accelerating! I've done the oil and oil filter and now will tackle the window regulator. However, a new problem has come up and I was wondering whether it might have to do with the fuel filter change.
Problem with Starter Motor?
The car starts when it's cold, but not when it's hot. I can drive somewhere and as long as I leave it for a few hours it will start up. Otherwise it will only make a "Click" sound and nothing else will happen, it'll just go click when I turn the key. When I called the NRMA, thinking flat battery, they told me after some questions that it most probably is a broken starter motor. But why were they asking when the van last had a oil and/or a fuel filter change? I told them both were done recently, to which they responded that it must be the starter motor. What has the fuel filter got to do with it. Thanks for any advice you might have. (btw I cleaned the battery terminals with Bi-carb soda)
+sandra freeman Can't see how the fuel filter would be involved or an oil change. Probably the starter solenoid and or motor. Fortunately they're available quite cheaply off eBay in the UK. Maybe try locally as well. I don't think a new starter is difficult to fit.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSD104-Starter-Motor-Solenoid-Mercedes-Vito-108-109-110-111-112-113-115-2-2-CDI-/261661252071?hash=item3cec39d9e7:g:-nIAAOSwyTZUXOg3
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Starter-Motor-Mercedes-Benz-Sprinter-Vito-109CDI-111CDI-115CDI-Turbo-Diese-95-06-/261706570287?fits=Model%3AVito|Plat_Gen%3AW639&hash=item3ceeed5a2f:g:dFEAAOSw7NNULq21
You'd need to check to make sure the right part numbers are ordered. The above are just examples.
+Scott Elliott Thank you so much for all your help!! Have a very Happy Easter!
Thanks for your quick reply, will give it a try. There seems to be a lack of information about these vehicles anywhere, and MB want to charge an arm and a leg for any service work, any info is greatly appreciated!
Their charges are just too much for me to bear! Have you done an oil change yet? They are one of the easiest vehicles to work on as you've got plenty of room to get to things.
The oil plus filter change is really easy so I can't bring myself to pay $400 to $450 for such a simple task done by a 17 year old apprentice.
Nice video, but could you please tell how do you bleed the fuel system after de replacement? Is there a hand pump or something? Thank you!
Thanks. There's no hand pump and there's no procedure in the Mercedes WIS. If the system had to be bled it would be in the video. After the new filter is installed just turn the ignition on and wait for a while as the fuel is pumped into the filter and start the engine. It takes a bit more cranking to get the pressure up but it starts and off you go.
@@ScottElliott152 thanks master
great video Scott...Just to be clear do I need to prime the filter by filling it up with diesel before turning the ignition on for 15 seconds and then the engine can be started? Thanks
Thanks Gregg. No just put the new one in and crank the engine. It takes a few seconds to fill the filter than away she goes. Scott
Scott Elliott cheers. Next job is new glow plugs 😱
Good on you Gregg. Make sure to soak the GP's each night for a few nights with WD40. Warm the engine before you try to remove them. Scott
All done smoothly even the origional hose clamps went back on without issue. Just a note that my filter had no wires or plugs to remove just the 2 fuel lines. 👍
Hi Scott, I agree the price that MB charges is too much! What oil type/grade do you run in your Vito?
5w-40 HPR5 Penrite Fully Synthetic. I wait until it's on special and pick up two 5 litre containers at about $60 each. You need about 9.0 litres for an oil + filter change. So you need a big container when you undo the sump plug.
Would replacing the Fuel filter be beneficial for resolving the issue of the engine turning off during driving?
If the fuel filter is blocked it could cause the engine to stop due to lack of fuel.
Hi Scott
How often the fuel filter has to be changed? And how about the Transmission oil?
My Vito 2013 122cdi has done 60,000km,
Is it a good time to change transmission oil & fuel filter?
Thanks for you useful videos in advance which has saved me to spend lots $$$
Change the fuel filter about 30,000km. Transmission about 60,000 km so yours is due now.
Hi Scott,i have a coolant leak somewhere near the fuel filter on my 113cid 2011 vito,is the filter housing connected to the coolant system?
Hi Peter ... the fuel filter and housing are not connected to the cooling system.
Just done one yes the filter plastic housing incorporates a water pipe into the cylinder head it leaks coolant from the seal common fault.
Modified part available from dealer absolute nightmare to fit.
Do you have to prime the new filter?
No priming required.
thanks for great video.
9 thumbs down - what the hec is wrong with people
Thanks. This was one of my earlier videos. The production quality isn't too good compared to what creators make these days. I'm gradually getting better at it! Regards, Scott
Do you or anyone know how to reset service interval on the Vito 115cdi?
Hi Karen. This is how I do mine:
1. Turn key to position 2.
2. Keep pressing the "M"button in and out until you get to the distance/time remaining for service.
3. Within 10 seconds turn the key back to position "0" and then press and hold the "M" button in and don't release it.
4. While still holding the "M" button in, turn the key back to position 2 and after about 10 seconds you'll get a beep and a new distance remaining figure will be displayed.
5. Now let go of the "M" button.
Thank you, Mr
How to reprogram the car to what you own
Youssef I'm not sure what your question refers to?
how to reset
Dear sir
do you have facebook channel?
billyyiu105 Billy I'm not a fan of Facebook. I do have a Google+ account.