You just did a magnificent job on thet video. Finally you gave a detailed explanation on how to make a budget track for the circular saw with showing how to actually show how to make it and what to consider with what mistakes can be made if not considered. Everyone else show you boastfully that they have expensive ones and how the not the viewer uses it but you went fully into everything to help people on a nbudget how they can actually make a cheap one for themselves. I have to save for months to buy small things as Im on disability and retired so I only have tools to learn how I can achieve my dreams to just learn how I can do things that I learned way, way back in school and Im not looking for perfection I know when Im finished a small project how I could make something better. Great job and good man you considered the viewer by by not talking up ,down or at them but importantly to them explaining each step. Thank you so much
Great video! I'm tempted to buy a track saw, but I'm a very novice wood worker and maybe I should use a jig like this for awhile to see if I'll stick with it before investing in more tools.
Guides like this are accurate when the guide is on the keeper. Otherwise you have to allow for the kerf. I use thinner plywood with a bolted aluminum fence so I can move the fence back as the flush edge wears away.
I learned how to make this type of guide from my carpentry text book, during my apprenticeship way back in the early nineties. It’s especially useful when you need to cut down a finished door. I’m sharing this video with my niece who is my latest “apprentice”, this is perfect because she really can’t afford a track saw right now. I had drawn her a little sketch and explained how to make the guide but the video will be much better for her. Thanks for posting it.
I made a much more complicated guide (th-cam.com/video/DOWMtyq1n-I/w-d-xo.html) but experienced some problems with it. So I made one just like this. I did put anti-skid tape on the underside, and it seems to stay put without clamps, though clamps sure aren't a bad idea to make sure it doesn't slip.
I’ve been dipping my toes into woodworking for years now and recently decided to build a workbench. Now, I have the frame assembled but have been stalling because I didn’t have a way of making perfectly straight cuts on plywood for the shelves and worktop. I told myself “You’ve spent enough on this project as is, figure out cheaper, but equally effective workarounds for tools you don’t already have!” I think this is the last thing I needed! Thanks! You’ve got a new subscriber!
I just made myself some speaker stands with nothing but a sheet of plywood, a circular saw, a ruler, and a drill and some screws. Next time I make them, I'm cutting the wood with this guide board setup. Thanks so much! Love your channel!
Tom Silva makes the same guide on This Old House except he adds the short side of the circular saw on the other side of the guide. Love the idea of making another 8' guide and cutting in a 3' and 5' guide. Great ideas Thankyou
Is the measure the blade plat or the tooth? Most if not all saws have the tooth extended on each side of the plate (I know it’s a small amount, but..) so if you make the cut on the line, you will actually be making it a bit smaller, any thoughts on this, thanks
If you build it the way I show, the edge of the jig is exactly where the blade will cut. Put the jig on the side of the plywood you want to keep, and the rest is the cut off, which will include the blade kirf.
If you want to see how the homemade tracks and circular saw compare to a real track saw, check out this video! th-cam.com/video/s-qKak1tah0/w-d-xo.html
Really on point video, well done and thank you! Just FYI I have hit the like button when you said hit the like button, but when you gave the tip about second track, I wanted to hit a double-like button. Keep it up bro
If you try putting a piece of rubber under the track, it lifts the track off of the wood you are cutting and you no longer have a zero clearance cut. This makes more tear out and is less accurate.
I see all these videos where people are putting sight holes about 12" in their saw guides. They serve no purpose, IMHO. I would bet anyone your guide is just as accurate as theirs with the holes.
The sight holes are great because you don't have to look vertically down to long up the guide. Looking from an angle the mark can be obscured. I've tried both and sight holes are leagues ahead for practicality.
Thank s for the simple explanation and demmo. Just had one question...after you did a freehanded cut on the backside and then measuring 2 inches , how can that be square if you cut it freehanded ?? Thank you
When I use the factory edge to cut off the freehand cut edge, the guide and edge of the jig are now parallel. The ends of the jig can be slightly out of square, but it doesn’t matter since nothing gets referenced off the ends of the jig. The reference point for your cut is always the side where the blade runs.
Great video.......Thank you....only problem is the three different measurements (base,blade and the add ons). I know its not rocket science....I guess I am dense....😞
@@waterlilly62lori if you have specific questions please let me know! I can help you out or put together a video if it makes sense to. Comment or email me at biscuittreewoodworks@yahoo.com
@@biscuittreewoodworks Making one is a good option because if I get a Makita one, I'd need to buy an adapter to go with my circular saw as it won't run on the purpose track. BTW, if I want to do a 45 degree or other angle cut as well as straight, I suppose I'd need to make another one for that???
@@biscuittreewoodworks I could add a detachable section to the raised guide that moves the saw over enough to accommodate for a 45deg angle, which will probably be the most used.
The saw can drift away from the guide if you don't keep pressure against the fence. That's no different that using a table saw or band saw. The difference in using a straight edge and these guides is you don't have to compensate for the distance between the straight edge and blade. I can just lay the guide exactly where I wan to make the cut. For me that is a huge improvement!
the track saw has 2 advantages ...you address one ...but the second ...which is the drift (controlled by the track grooves) can be addressed easily too@@biscuittreewoodworks
With this it’s very inexpensive compared to a track saw, especially if you buy one with the saw. Most woodworkers already have a circular saw. With this one keeping some pressure on the saw to keep it tight to the guide isn’t really any different than keeping a piece of wood tight to the fence on a table saw. Now if you’re constantly ripping sheet goods then a track saw might be the way to go. For myself, no more than I rip sheet goods it’s not worth the price to buy a track saw. I have a 4 foot version of this and also a 6’ level and an 8’ aluminum straight edge that works just fine. Of course with just a straight edge you have to figure in the width of the saw plate. A fix for that would be to rip a piece to that width and fasten it to the piece you’re using as the straight edge. Measure and mark the cut. Line up the straight edge with the hinged piece down, clamp it, flip it up and cut. The only thing about having the saw guide on the motor side. If it’s like my saw the motor hits the guide piece when trying to set for a full depth cut. Not usually a problem with sheet goods, but if you’ve built a thick table or such, you might not get it all. That’s where a simple straight edge works well. It just has to be tall enough to keep the saw from riding up on it.
Sorry but this is not a track, its a complicated straight edge. A track has two rails to ensure a straight cut, this is not that and the saw could drift.
Saw rides against a straight edge and on top of a track, but that’s my opinion. I’ve used these kind of saw tracks for many years and never had a problem with them drifting.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Nah you're making up definitions here. A track has 2 guides, not an edge. It's an overcomplicated guide. You should listen to your audience, many people have said the same thing, you are the only one making up definitions. It's not a track because it runs against a single edge.
@@fryertuck6496 Well, I call it a track since it rides on top of it and not along the side. You are welcome to go make your own video and call your version whatever you like.
The saw rides against a straight edge not on it, and you have to account for the distance between the straight edge and blade. With this diy track the saw rides on it and makes a zero clearance cut, just like a track saw.
Excuse me, but that is called a Slip Board..............The way you build this is overly complicated. All you need is an aluminum angle and a piece of plywood to run the shoe of the saw along. Simple and uncomplicated.
If you say so. I've never heard it called a slip board, and I even did a couple google searches for that term and not a single result called it that. I don't see how gluing down a cut off piece of plywood is more complicated than drilling, countersinking, and screwing down a piece of angle, but you do you.
GET THE PLANS!!! www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products/p/diy-track-saw-plans
You just did a magnificent job on thet video. Finally you gave a detailed explanation on how to make a budget track for the circular saw with showing how to actually show how to make it and what to consider with what mistakes can be made if not considered. Everyone else show you boastfully that they have expensive ones and how the not the viewer uses it but you went fully into everything to help people on a nbudget how they can actually make a cheap one for themselves. I have to save for months to buy small things as Im on disability and retired so I only have tools to learn how I can achieve my dreams to just learn how I can do things that I learned way, way back in school and Im not looking for perfection I know when Im finished a small project how I could make something better. Great job and good man you considered the viewer by by not talking up ,down or at them but importantly to them explaining each step. Thank you so much
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Off to make this now. Its going to make my panelling project much simpler. Thanks
Great!
Excellent presentation. Very well explained and articulated. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice job on that track saw guide. (Nice presentation and explanation. Good teaching skills). Thank you for making and posting this video.
Very welcome!
Great video! I'm tempted to buy a track saw, but I'm a very novice wood worker and maybe I should use a jig like this for awhile to see if I'll stick with it before investing in more tools.
That’s the way I did it. I used these jigs for many years until I decided to upgrade to a dedicated track saw.
Great video, I just may have to make one of these. Thanks!
So easy to make and works great! Let me know how it turns out!
Sweet! 👍
Thanks! 👍
What about the kerf of the blade?
You put the track on top of the piece you are keeping so the blade cuts in the waste piece.
01:51 If you want 3in, measuring to 3in will make it short by the kerf of the saw blade won’t it?
Depends on what side you place your guide on. Put the guide on the side you want to keep and you are cutting in the waste and will get a perfect 3”.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Yup, totally agree. 👍
like the content. new subscriber here
Thank you!
Except your 3 inch piece will be minus the kerf of the blade, watch out for that if you need accurate cuts.
True, you need to account for the blade kerf or put the track on the keeper piece.
🎉😊
👍
Guides like this are accurate when the guide is on the keeper. Otherwise you have to allow for the kerf. I use thinner plywood with a bolted aluminum fence so I can move the fence back as the flush edge wears away.
Yes, you should always be aware of your positioning to ensure the blade is cutting in the waste.
I learned how to make this type of guide from my carpentry text book, during my apprenticeship way back in the early nineties. It’s especially useful when you need to cut down a finished door. I’m sharing this video with my niece who is my latest “apprentice”, this is perfect because she really can’t afford a track saw right now. I had drawn her a little sketch and explained how to make the guide but the video will be much better for her. Thanks for posting it.
That's awesome! Glad I could help! If it will help any more, I will have plans available on my website in a couple weeks.
biscuittreewoodworks.com
I made a much more complicated guide (th-cam.com/video/DOWMtyq1n-I/w-d-xo.html) but experienced some problems with it. So I made one just like this. I did put anti-skid tape on the underside, and it seems to stay put without clamps, though clamps sure aren't a bad idea to make sure it doesn't slip.
Most of the time the simplest answer is the best approach!
I’ve been dipping my toes into woodworking for years now and recently decided to build a workbench. Now, I have the frame assembled but have been stalling because I didn’t have a way of making perfectly straight cuts on plywood for the shelves and worktop. I told myself “You’ve spent enough on this project as is, figure out cheaper, but equally effective workarounds for tools you don’t already have!” I think this is the last thing I needed! Thanks! You’ve got a new subscriber!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
I just made myself some speaker stands with nothing but a sheet of plywood, a circular saw, a ruler, and a drill and some screws. Next time I make them, I'm cutting the wood with this guide board setup. Thanks so much! Love your channel!
Thanks!
Tom Silva makes the same guide on This Old House except he adds the short side of the circular saw on the other side of the guide. Love the idea of making another 8' guide and cutting in a 3' and 5' guide. Great ideas
Thankyou
Thanks for watching!
Is the measure the blade plat or the tooth? Most if not all saws have the tooth extended on each side of the plate (I know it’s a small amount, but..) so if you make the cut on the line, you will actually be making it a bit smaller, any thoughts on this, thanks
If you build it the way I show, the edge of the jig is exactly where the blade will cut. Put the jig on the side of the plywood you want to keep, and the rest is the cut off, which will include the blade kirf.
Good video. Made one of these today, worked really well. Thanks!
Awesome! 😎
Great idea to do 3 lengths of track! I thought I was subscribed to your channel, but apparently not, so I am now!
Thank you!
If you want to see how the homemade tracks and circular saw compare to a real track saw, check out this video!
th-cam.com/video/s-qKak1tah0/w-d-xo.html
can you make a track for a jigsaw
Yes, just follow the same instructions using a jigsaw instead of the circular saw.
Subscribed because of this video
Thanks!
New to your channel. I can't wait to make my own track guide! 👍
You can do it!
Really on point video, well done and thank you! Just FYI I have hit the like button when you said hit the like button, but when you gave the tip about second track, I wanted to hit a double-like button. Keep it up bro
Awesome! Thanks!
Thank you. The track products I've been looking at in the box stores look flimsy. This is far more reliable and cheaper.
I've been using mine for years!
Gr8 video. Have u tried putting some really grippy rubber under the track?
If you try putting a piece of rubber under the track, it lifts the track off of the wood you are cutting and you no longer have a zero clearance cut. This makes more tear out and is less accurate.
Excellent video thanks, I’m going to make my own “gad”
Go for it!
Great video, just what I needed. This has saved me a couple of hundred $.
Great to hear!
I see all these videos where people are putting sight holes about 12" in their saw guides. They serve no purpose, IMHO. I would bet anyone your guide is just as accurate as theirs with the holes.
I've used this setup for years. It's very accurate as is!
The sight holes are great because you don't have to look vertically down to long up the guide.
Looking from an angle the mark can be obscured.
I've tried both and sight holes are leagues ahead for practicality.
Nice! I'm going to make this too, thanks.
Go for it! They work great!
Nice zero clearance saw guide
Thanks!
Thank s for the simple explanation and demmo. Just had one question...after you did a freehanded cut on the backside and then measuring 2 inches , how can that be square if you cut it freehanded ?? Thank you
When I use the factory edge to cut off the freehand cut edge, the guide and edge of the jig are now parallel. The ends of the jig can be slightly out of square, but it doesn’t matter since nothing gets referenced off the ends of the jig. The reference point for your cut is always the side where the blade runs.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Got it...thank you very much for prompt reply and explanation !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great! Thanks!
👍
Great video.......Thank you....only problem is the three different measurements (base,blade and the add ons). I know its not rocket science....I guess I am dense....😞
The measurements aren’t critical, you just don’t want the parts to be too small.
Do you have a video on how to use a planer?
Sorry, I don’t. At least not yet.
@@biscuittreewoodworks I need one!
@@waterlilly62lori if you have specific questions please let me know! I can help you out or put together a video if it makes sense to. Comment or email me at biscuittreewoodworks@yahoo.com
Thank you. I need one of these so I'm making one.
Cheers.
Go for it! I've used them for years!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Making one is a good option because if I get a Makita one, I'd need to buy an adapter to go with my circular saw as it won't run on the purpose track.
BTW, if I want to do a 45 degree or other angle cut as well as straight, I suppose I'd need to make another one for that???
@@steveraleigh100 Yes, you will need a separate jig for beveled cuts.
@@biscuittreewoodworks
I could add a detachable section to the raised guide that moves the saw over enough to accommodate for a 45deg angle, which will probably be the most used.
still doesn't stop saw from deviating... track saw holds saw using a channel ...your guide is the same as using a straight edge really
The saw can drift away from the guide if you don't keep pressure against the fence. That's no different that using a table saw or band saw. The difference in using a straight edge and these guides is you don't have to compensate for the distance between the straight edge and blade. I can just lay the guide exactly where I wan to make the cut. For me that is a huge improvement!
the track saw has 2 advantages ...you address one ...but the second ...which is the drift (controlled by the track grooves) can be addressed easily too@@biscuittreewoodworks
With this it’s very inexpensive compared to a track saw, especially if you buy one with the saw. Most woodworkers already have a circular saw. With this one keeping some pressure on the saw to keep it tight to the guide isn’t really any different than keeping a piece of wood tight to the fence on a table saw. Now if you’re constantly ripping sheet goods then a track saw might be the way to go. For myself, no more than I rip sheet goods it’s not worth the price to buy a track saw. I have a 4 foot version of this and also a 6’ level and an 8’ aluminum straight edge that works just fine. Of course with just a straight edge you have to figure in the width of the saw plate. A fix for that would be to rip a piece to that width and fasten it to the piece you’re using as the straight edge. Measure and mark the cut. Line up the straight edge with the hinged piece down, clamp it, flip it up and cut.
The only thing about having the saw guide on the motor side. If it’s like my saw the motor hits the guide piece when trying to set for a full depth cut. Not usually a problem with sheet goods, but if you’ve built a thick table or such, you might not get it all. That’s where a simple straight edge works well. It just has to be tall enough to keep the saw from riding up on it.
Sorry but this is not a track, its a complicated straight edge.
A track has two rails to ensure a straight cut, this is not that and the saw could drift.
Saw rides against a straight edge and on top of a track, but that’s my opinion. I’ve used these kind of saw tracks for many years and never had a problem with them drifting.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Nah you're making up definitions here.
A track has 2 guides, not an edge.
It's an overcomplicated guide.
You should listen to your audience, many people have said the same thing, you are the only one making up definitions.
It's not a track because it runs against a single edge.
@@fryertuck6496 Well, I call it a track since it rides on top of it and not along the side. You are welcome to go make your own video and call your version whatever you like.
All you made is a straight edge not a track.
The saw rides against a straight edge not on it, and you have to account for the distance between the straight edge and blade. With this diy track the saw rides on it and makes a zero clearance cut, just like a track saw.
@@biscuittreewoodworks it's still not a track saw, just an edge guide.
Wrong! He made a device that allows one to cut a straight line…….as in a track.
Excuse me, but that is called a Slip Board..............The way you build this is overly complicated. All you need is an aluminum angle and a piece of plywood to run the shoe of the saw along. Simple and uncomplicated.
If you say so. I've never heard it called a slip board, and I even did a couple google searches for that term and not a single result called it that. I don't see how gluing down a cut off piece of plywood is more complicated than drilling, countersinking, and screwing down a piece of angle, but you do you.