This video was a pleasure to watch and took me on a trip down memory lane. I have used every one of your techniques. (I used old toothbrushes for scoring & they worked fine.) I created handbuilt ceramics in grad school in the 1970s. Being in the class was inspiring because many different works were created. One woman made a series of ceramic pies. One was titled "Honey Pie" and was filled with ceramic bees and had a crust with a hexagon texture. Another woman molded body parts for her work. Another made intricate jewelry pieces. I never mastered the potter's wheel, but my ex was good at that but didn't have the patience to create handbuilt things, so we used to make parts for each other. I'd hand build the main part of a pot and he threw a base and/or spout for me. I loved hand-built because of the variety of shapes I could make: boxy, pyramids, sculptural, or taller structures than my ex could make on a wheel. I sold hundreds of pieces, but still have a few which I display in my garden every year. Except for a few demo pieces I created when teaching art in public schools, I've done almost no ceramics since the 70s. I was given a used kiln by a friend, but after not using it for 30 years, I donated it to a non-profit art center along with a huge tub of dry mix for the glaze I created for a grad-school assignment. Watching your video made me want to get back to it, but now I have sketchbooks full of a zillion art ideas that don't include clay.
It sounds like watching this video re-ignited that pottery passion in you! You should go ahead and dive back into it, and enjoy your talent and passion. : )
In the studio where I worked we used cornstarch rather than cloth to prevent clay from sticking (when using plastic bowls or other plastic forms or patterns). We applied it to our slabs by pouring it into socks and patting the slab with it.
That makes sense. I do wonder how it might effect possible reclaim, but I wouldn’t anticipate much interference on the surface… since it would just burn off anyway.
@@Fugli1 We did wipe some of it off if we had been a little too crazy with the application, but generally didn't worry much about it. And we had no problem re reclaiming.
@@Fugli1 I've used cornstarch for slip mold barriers on troublesome molds. Have not seen issues in reclaim yet, but that's defiantly a great question. I'll have to keep an eye out for effects.
Techniques are solid, and the example work is very interesting. The add-ons you've placed on you work look like natural extensions of the work. I really like this! However, I would use caution about expendables in the kiln. They can leave deposits on heating coils, and degrade them faster if used frequently. I would do this, but would pop them off before bisque firing. It's a great way to get cheap impressions of letters though, and it looks great!
Hello. :-) I am enjoying your video and would like to know if footage 5:04 where did you get that clear texture mat? I like the fact that it can be negative or positive on which side of person uses.
I'm not sure where I got them but I see that there are many options through amazon for "texture sheets." I see a set of 12 there like the ones I often use.
If by liner you mean something to inscribe a line then wet wood. Do not use a stylus as if it were a pen or pencil. Use low angles and press into the clay… do not drag your tool.
Building in a bowl? You can use all sorts of materials. I usually use a piece cut from a lightweight plastic shopping bag because it’s cheap and it will help keep clay hydrated longer. You can peel it off and it can be reused. Fabric can also be a good way to add even more texture. Using a piece of fabric that has a deep grain or designs in the thread work can add even more variety. Another option is paper. Cut strips of paper (like newspaper) can be used to line a form. And if they absorb enough moisture that they stay stuck, they will burn off in the kiln.
Thanks. Wedging should have already been done. While there are techniques to wedging, I guess I don’t consider it a technique in itself. It’s a necessity, so I usually prewedge everything. As for refining shape and form at different stages, there are many classes/seminars/etc. where that isn’t possible because they basically go from project to firing without revisiting after a drying time. This is true for a class I will be hosting in July where they come in one Wednesday for about an hour and a half, and I have to have it fired by the next Wednesday without seeing most of the students in between. But, you are right, the list could be so much longer. I had to fish or cut bait on some items when choosing stuff on the video.
Nem vou me dar o trabalho de terminar o vídeo! A construção da xícara está completamente mal feita, sem os cuidados necessários para que não se descole a base e a alça. Um horror. Se é para explicar alguma técnica assim, melhor não!
I use an old toothbrush to score my mugs for handles...this was a great video to improve technique. Thanks again
This video was a pleasure to watch and took me on a trip down memory lane. I have used every one of your techniques. (I used old toothbrushes for scoring & they worked fine.)
I created handbuilt ceramics in grad school in the 1970s. Being in the class was inspiring because many different works were created. One woman made a series of ceramic pies. One was titled "Honey Pie" and was filled with ceramic bees and had a crust with a hexagon texture. Another woman molded body parts for her work. Another made intricate jewelry pieces.
I never mastered the potter's wheel, but my ex was good at that but didn't have the patience to create handbuilt things, so we used to make parts for each other. I'd hand build the main part of a pot and he threw a base and/or spout for me. I loved hand-built because of the variety of shapes I could make: boxy, pyramids, sculptural, or taller structures than my ex could make on a wheel. I sold hundreds of pieces, but still have a few which I display in my garden every year.
Except for a few demo pieces I created when teaching art in public schools, I've done almost no ceramics since the 70s. I was given a used kiln by a friend, but after not using it for 30 years, I donated it to a non-profit art center along with a huge tub of dry mix for the glaze I created for a grad-school assignment. Watching your video made me want to get back to it, but now I have sketchbooks full of a zillion art ideas that don't include clay.
It sounds like watching this video re-ignited that pottery passion in you! You should go ahead and dive back into it, and enjoy your talent and passion. : )
Such clear instructions, thank you.
Thank you for your videos ❤
Maravilhoso! obrigado. Grande abraço.
You are wonderful. You are making things very easy to understand and be able to follow.
In the studio where I worked we used cornstarch rather than cloth to prevent clay from sticking (when using plastic bowls or other plastic forms or patterns). We applied it to our slabs by pouring it into socks and patting the slab with it.
That makes sense. I do wonder how it might effect possible reclaim, but I wouldn’t anticipate much interference on the surface… since it would just burn off anyway.
@@Fugli1 We did wipe some of it off if we had been a little too crazy with the application, but generally didn't worry much about it. And we had no problem re reclaiming.
Thank you for the sock trick. I just bought corn starch and wondered how to use it best.
me sirve esta data, muchas gracias por compartir💌
@@Fugli1 I've used cornstarch for slip mold barriers on troublesome molds. Have not seen issues in reclaim yet, but that's defiantly a great question. I'll have to keep an eye out for effects.
I love your video 😍 Very useful tips ! Thanks a million !
Great information thank you
Thank you so much for creating this video 🙏
Thank you for this. I'm new to pottery and found this really informative.
Me encantó el vídeo gracias voy a arriesgarme hacer algunos están preciosas
This was great for a starter thanks
Thank you for demonstrating and explaining clearly in your informative video.
Techniques are solid, and the example work is very interesting. The add-ons you've placed on you work look like natural extensions of the work. I really like this!
However, I would use caution about expendables in the kiln. They can leave deposits on heating coils, and degrade them faster if used frequently. I would do this, but would pop them off before bisque firing. It's a great way to get cheap impressions of letters though, and it looks great!
The info I needed as a newbie; very clear information. Thanks so much!!
Great tips thx!
Wow..love your experienced information..thanks for sharing. I love the alphabet advice.😊👌
Hello. :-) I am enjoying your video and would like to know if footage 5:04 where did you get that clear texture mat? I like the fact that it can be negative or positive on which side of person uses.
I'm not sure where I got them but I see that there are many options through amazon for "texture sheets." I see a set of 12 there like the ones I often use.
What works best for liners? I'm having trouble with my clay sticking to everything and winding up ruined
If by liner you mean something to inscribe a line then wet wood. Do not use a stylus as if it were a pen or pencil. Use low angles and press into the clay… do not drag your tool.
Great informational tutorial!
So nice ! Thanks to you
What type of liners do you use for Mold method ? Plastic or fabric ?
Thank you in advance.
Building in a bowl? You can use all sorts of materials. I usually use a piece cut from a lightweight plastic shopping bag because it’s cheap and it will help keep clay hydrated longer. You can peel it off and it can be reused. Fabric can also be a good way to add even more texture. Using a piece of fabric that has a deep grain or designs in the thread work can add even more variety. Another option is paper. Cut strips of paper (like newspaper) can be used to line a form. And if they absorb enough moisture that they stay stuck, they will burn off in the kiln.
Love this- so helpful and interesting thanks for sharing your knowledge 🥰👍🏻
Thank you!
This is beyond helpful
Por favor lo pueden hacer en español,y decir la clase de arcilla que utilizan? Muchas gracias.
Esta arcilla es un pulidor de cono 6. No hablo español.
You don't recommend wedging? What about refining the shape at the leather hard stage? Peace and Health
Thanks. Wedging should have already been done. While there are techniques to wedging, I guess I don’t consider it a technique in itself. It’s a necessity, so I usually prewedge everything. As for refining shape and form at different stages, there are many classes/seminars/etc. where that isn’t possible because they basically go from project to firing without revisiting after a drying time. This is true for a class I will be hosting in July where they come in one Wednesday for about an hour and a half, and I have to have it fired by the next Wednesday without seeing most of the students in between. But, you are right, the list could be so much longer. I had to fish or cut bait on some items when choosing stuff on the video.
ขอบคุณค่ะ ❤️
Bei lavori! Bravo!
Thanks you
Pasta letters! Great idea. Thank you.
The Psalms 23 on the pitcher is really beautiful.
Вот это здорово,применю в своих изделиях! Спасибо!
Большой! Вот почему я опубликовал это.
Hells bells man
Nem vou me dar o trabalho de terminar o vídeo! A construção da xícara está completamente mal feita, sem os cuidados necessários para que não se descole a base e a alça. Um horror. Se é para explicar alguma técnica assim, melhor não!
Et vous de quoi êtes-vous capable ? Osez vous exposer ....😊
It’s funny how people claim ancient techniques as „their“ techniques. 😂
Using a cloth isn’t safe.
my dumb teacher made me do this
HORRIBLE¡!