I’ve watched all of your loadstar videos. This is so good work you guys are doing. I have a question for you. Did you have to drill more holes in the front f650 axle to get it to work? I have the a loadstar 1700 with the f650 axles,and my front u-bolt hoes are not lining up to the leaf springs. Keep up the good work.
i didnt see the locating pin that locks the axle to the center of the springs. if it isnt there, the axle can shift forward or back when you hit bumps. i wouldnt weld that axle to any spring steel. spring steel will probably just brake at that spot. you could just z cut the rear frame to get the rear of the frame right. of course everybody loves air bags. that is a dt360 motor..what trans are you using?
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS yeah right now there is a block spacer that is over the centering pin. What we might do is take out that block and drill a hole on the bottom of the axle to go over the pins. That way it’s centered on there. And it would give us a little more clearance from the oil pan. Yeah it’s a dt360 motor. We are using an fso6406o tranny. It’s an Eaton 6 speed with an over drive. That way we can go highway speeds when we want to.
Love it! Can't wait to see it mocked up on the new wheels/tires. Are you going to Z the rear frame? That would help you avoid bags if you didn't want to. Don't get me wrong, I'd rather see bags, but if you Z the frame right behind the cab and pull the leafs you could get that 10" without the bags. A buddy of mine's doing a similar build (I have two videos of it on my channel), he's linking and bagging the rear.
Str8sixfan we have thought about zing the frame. But personally we aren’t huge fans of the look. So I think we will just go for bags. Which we are excited about. Will be sweet. I will have to check out your videos.
Derek Hansen just because we are using a lot smaller tire is why it is going to lower it even more. And bags a literal air bags that you install between the frame and the axle. And can raise and lower is based on the amount of air you put in them. It’s way cool. If you google it you can see.
Good call not welding it, they aren't supposed to be welded. Also could you just take your flywheel and bearing taken to a machine shop and have them make it fit?
Kevin yeah once we had it mounted. We realized how solid the axle is on there. So glad that we didn’t weld it. And what we are going to try and do is get the input shaft machined down to the 25mm we need.
As long as it’s the right material you can weld on them tho they say you shouldn’t. But we aren’t going to be welding ours at all tho we thought about it at the beginning.
The width is the same for the front and back. And the f650 axles are a little bit wider then the stock axles I think. But they still sit good inside the fenders.
@@gingerauto Hello, I love the project. I was wondering were to get the front and rear axels for my project. I just bought a 1965 International Loadstar but want to change the axels for smaller wheels. Can you please give me some suggestions? Thank you very much.
jose tapia I would recommend getting on Facebook or craigslist and start looking for people parting out trucks. We found a guy parting out an f650 truck. And we were able to buy the front and rear axle from him. If you have a local medium duty truck yard. That’s another place to look.
@@gingerauto Hello again, I appreciate your help. I have a 1994 crew cab chevy 3500 dually but the axels do not seem wide enough. They have to be from m a bigger truck then? Thank you so much.
Can you explain what tool you used, dimensions, and did you eventual weld the plate with leaf alignment hole to the notch in axle. I’m wanting to place my axle above leaf and thinking about 1.5in notch depth, just trying to see what you did
We just used a hand help band saw to notch the axle. And we welded little plates onto it add a little strength. Just need to make sure they are wide enough for the leafs. And spaced out evenly.
@@gingerauto I have the smallest leaf I removed from stack with the centering hole. Is welding the lead to axle different than welding normal steel? I’ll make sure notches are spaced correct and wide enough for leaf. Just want to make sure the axle won’t shift or rotate during breaking
@@dougwheeler3606 don’t weld to the leaf. We welded little plates of steel to keep it from rolling at all. Just in case. But if it’s bolted down correctly. It shouldn’t move.
I have a 96 4700 IH crew cab with a blown up dt466. I'm doing a 5.9 Cummins swap and lowering it. I will be watching your build.
We were going to do the cummins but we happen to find a dt360 close to us. So decided to keep it IH!
I’ve watched all of your loadstar videos. This is so good work you guys are doing. I have a question for you. Did you have to drill more holes in the front f650 axle to get it to work? I have the a loadstar 1700 with the f650 axles,and my front u-bolt hoes are not lining up to the leaf springs. Keep up the good work.
i didnt see the locating pin that locks the axle to the center of the springs. if it isnt there, the axle can shift forward or back when you hit bumps. i wouldnt weld that axle to any spring steel. spring steel will probably just brake at that spot. you could just z cut the rear frame to get the rear of the frame right. of course everybody loves air bags. that is a dt360 motor..what trans are you using?
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS yeah right now there is a block spacer that is over the centering pin. What we might do is take out that block and drill a hole on the bottom of the axle to go over the pins. That way it’s centered on there. And it would give us a little more clearance from the oil pan. Yeah it’s a dt360 motor. We are using an fso6406o tranny. It’s an Eaton 6 speed with an over drive. That way we can go highway speeds when we want to.
Love it! Can't wait to see it mocked up on the new wheels/tires. Are you going to Z the rear frame? That would help you avoid bags if you didn't want to. Don't get me wrong, I'd rather see bags, but if you Z the frame right behind the cab and pull the leafs you could get that 10" without the bags. A buddy of mine's doing a similar build (I have two videos of it on my channel), he's linking and bagging the rear.
Str8sixfan we have thought about zing the frame. But personally we aren’t huge fans of the look. So I think we will just go for bags. Which we are excited about. Will be sweet. I will have to check out your videos.
@@gingerauto Look for the "Friends' and Siblings' Rides" playlist. Saw the IG post!
You can have a machine shop make you a custom pilot bearing and same you the time of replacing the input shaft for a few bucks.
Was wondering how you were gonna flip the front axle
Just curious. I’ve noticed disc brakes on the front and rear axles that you are using. What axles are you using??
They are off an 04 f650.
How wide is that front axle.. looking for something to swap my 68 Chevy c50
What did you guys do? Mount the axle on top of the leaf spring instead of the bottom to lower it?
Yup!
When the front dropped, my jaw dropped. And you say it goes even lower? And what are bags?
Derek Hansen just because we are using a lot smaller tire is why it is going to lower it even more. And bags a literal air bags that you install between the frame and the axle. And can raise and lower is based on the amount of air you put in them. It’s way cool. If you google it you can see.
Good call not welding it, they aren't supposed to be welded.
Also could you just take your flywheel and bearing taken to a machine shop and have them make it fit?
Kevin yeah once we had it mounted. We realized how solid the axle is on there. So glad that we didn’t weld it.
And what we are going to try and do is get the input shaft machined down to the 25mm we need.
I thought the front axels had a warning ⚠️ not to weld.
As long as it’s the right material you can weld on them tho they say you shouldn’t. But we aren’t going to be welding ours at all tho we thought about it at the beginning.
Did the king pin inclination angle change?
I think we set it at 7 degrees if I remember correctly.
Is there a difference in width between the front and rear axles? It looks like the front is really wide compared to stock.
The width is the same for the front and back. And the f650 axles are a little bit wider then the stock axles I think. But they still sit good inside the fenders.
@@gingerauto Hello,
I love the project. I was wondering were to get the front and rear axels for my project. I just bought a 1965 International Loadstar but want to change the axels for smaller wheels. Can you please give me some suggestions?
Thank you very much.
jose tapia I would recommend getting on Facebook or craigslist and start looking for people parting out trucks. We found a guy parting out an f650 truck. And we were able to buy the front and rear axle from him. If you have a local medium duty truck yard. That’s another place to look.
@@gingerauto Hello again,
I appreciate your help. I have a 1994 crew cab chevy 3500 dually but the axels do not seem wide enough. They have to be from m a bigger truck then?
Thank you so much.
jose tapia yeah. The loadstar is a medium duty truck. So if you want axles that will bolt right up. You will need medium duty axles.
What front axle is that
We are using an 04 f650 front axle
Can you explain what tool you used, dimensions, and did you eventual weld the plate with leaf alignment hole to the notch in axle.
I’m wanting to place my axle above leaf and thinking about 1.5in notch depth, just trying to see what you did
We just used a hand help band saw to notch the axle. And we welded little plates onto it add a little strength. Just need to make sure they are wide enough for the leafs. And spaced out evenly.
@@gingerauto I have the smallest leaf I removed from stack with the centering hole. Is welding the lead to axle different than welding normal steel?
I’ll make sure notches are spaced correct and wide enough for leaf.
Just want to make sure the axle won’t shift or rotate during breaking
@@dougwheeler3606 don’t weld to the leaf. We welded little plates of steel to keep it from rolling at all. Just in case. But if it’s bolted down correctly. It shouldn’t move.
That front end looks like an aggressive fart from a passenger would cause it to bottom out.
We adjust it later.
What was the "adjustment"? Did you notch the frame rail?