I don't use a ceramic rod for honing, but rather a flat ceramic stone. When I touching up a knife, first I use the ceramic stone and then a few strokes over a strop.
I agree with most everything said in this video truly accurate information except for one part and that's that you can't re-establish an edge that's been taken too far dulled on a ceramic rod. I literally just did a video on it last night where I cut the Apex off and re-established a new Cutting Edge within like 50 seconds on a very fine ceramic rod now is this ideal? absolutely not and will that edge hold up like a freshly sharpened Edge? Again absolutely not when you're cutting a micro bevel into a pre-existing Edge bevel you are absolutely establishing a new Cutting Edge and micro serrations you are not just realigning teeth that is very much a myth. Now as you said once the edge is no longer responding well to a quick honing it is no longer efficient to try to hone The Edge back and it is time to remove that fatigued material on a sharpening stone to create a fresh Edge bevel and cutting edge/micro serrations. Good video Erica.
@@Edcreviewer there is no way anyone is properly apexing a knife on a ceramic rod. No one is reprofiling on a ceramic rod. Creating a new clean edge bevel that is flat- leading to a proper apex- will not be happening on a ceramic rod. That’s the point. Haha
When I worked in Alaska after high school for a summer we actually used a metal sharpening rod quite often to keep our knives sharp for cleaning salmon. I didnt use a flat sharpening stone for an entire summer but every hour or so I'd hone the edge. I spent a good 80 hours a week minus lunch and dinner cleaning salmon. The summer before I sheared Christmas trees with a machete and we used flat files to resharpen the machetes. So of course they werent razor sharp. But if they were they would have gotten full real quick I suck at using a flat stone so I have one of those Benchmade and a Worksharp stone like you have in the video Those angles on the ends keep my angle the same pretty much all the time I have noticed that some of my knives with the better material are much harder to sharpen but stay sharp longer
I disagree with the touching it up on a ceramic rod being more difficult with a thicker behind the edge. If you’re just using the ceramic to touch up the apex. Assuming you still have the same edge angle. Shouldn’t be any different
Should have clarified. I’m saying it won’t be as easy (more difficult), to get a keen honed micro bevel on a thicker BTE knife/a more obtuse edge angle from being so thick. It will dull faster. It will be more difficult to essentially keep up with a “sharp” edge as your knife gets thicker BTE/that edge gets more obtuse from sharpening. Unless you lay the edge back more like I said.
@ but let’s say you start off with a 17°. And after 60 sharpening’s and you still have a 17°. The behind the edge is thicker. But the apex of a 17° is the same either way
@@peterbiltknifeguy thick knives are more difficult to sharpen. That’s sorta the point I was making about using your knife over time and wearing the blade out/working into that thicker stock. It does become more difficult. Thin knives- thin BTE blades are easier to sharpen.
@peterbiltknifeguy but obtaining a sharp edge on a knife with 40thou BTE is going to be more difficult regardless of the DPS. If I take a knife 5thou BTE and put it at 17DPS, it’s going to sharpen SO much faster and easier than a knife with 40thou BTE and 17DPS. Like- a fillet knife will sharpen faster generally speaking than a machete haha. Thicker knives in general just tend to be a little more tricky to get sharp as opposed to thin knives.
@ no i agree. That’s why I was saying for the ceramic to hone. It shouldn’t be any different to hone the apex of a 17° knife with a 10 thousands or 30 thousands behind the edge knife as long as you are only touching up the apex is all I’m saying
What are you thoughts on using a flat ceramic surface as a finer grit in a sharpening progression? I have the work sharp tri surface with 320 grit, 600 grit, and ceramic. I’ve just been using the flat ceramic surface as the last progression before stropping. I’ll use compound for stopping in that progression, but for my touch ups I’ve just been using a plain leather belt (no compound) about once or twice a week. Lightly hit each side 3-5 times. I’m pretty happy with the results.
Great content, as always! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (mistake turkey blossom warfare blade until bachelor fall squeeze today flee guitar). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
If you want to know about honing rods I would suggest watching a video by "Hiroyuki Terada - Diaries of a Master Sushi Chef" . "HONING RODS: Are They Good For Japanese Steel?". I found it to be very informative
Good video, really enjoyed the explanation of what the difference is. I have been working on my free hand sharpening, getting better and actually learning and enjoying the experience. Thanks for sharing and have a great blessed week.
I'm glad you put out videos like this. Instead of just telling people to "learn how to sharpen their knives", you actually SHOW them, and that's pretty cool.👍Have a great night, E!
I don’t think you’ve really talked much about honing before. Have you noticed if honing a knife with the super steels like K390 or Rex 121 is as effective as let’s say VG-10 or 154CM? I would suspect it works but maybe not as well on the really exotic high end steels.
Those simpler steels are way more responsive to touch ups on ceramic than those high hardness/high tungsten super steels. It’s not impossible- but like VG10 will get razor sharp in a few swipes and REX121 will probably take a hot second haha
Listening to you got me thinking. I have a MiniBuck tool in my pocket, and I have been carrying it daily since 1997, seriously every day. And I just realized I've never sharpened it, never even honed it. I nearly cut my thumb off with the blade in 1998. Thought I should take a look at the edge. It still has a bur on it from the factory 😮. Guess I need to hone it up and see how it cuts after. Not my thumb hopefully. 😕 Thanks Erica for the content.
@@mrmouse-ol9pw To some degree, but I just sharpened 30-odd knives for a restaurant the other day and the head chef (dude with ALOT of experience) just sent me a picture of his thumb being split in two (lenghtwise if you are interested) down to the bone from the new, sharp knives. I agree that a dull knife is far more likely to cause an accident, but sharp knives absolutely cause more damage when something does happen.
People get the terminology skewed. There's two types of sharpenings: abrasive, which removes metal, and displacement, which moves the edge back into alignment. Stones are abrasive tools. Butcher steels are displacement tools. Ceramic rods are a hybrid of both. Stones meet the true definition of hones, for in the manufacturing world, hones remove metal. Have you ever heard of cylinder hones for sizing engine bores through abrasion? You should be able to steel a knife hundreds of times after initially honing (stoning), before having to stone it again. Professional meat cutters steel knives every ten minutes or so.
Yet another excellent video. This discussion of honing vs sharpening reminded me of the talk around that “Sharpens Best” carbide piece of crap. Recently, some jackass was trying to convince me that it “is better than diamond stones” and was able to “hone and sharpen at the same time” so it makes a strop unnecessary. It took a lot of effort to not laugh in the dude’s face. I would absolutely LOVE to see your no-bullshit take on that sharpener. Jerad did a video on it about a year ago, but he was far too kind.
Nice concept intro and on point. No magic sharpening bullets out there as they all take some training and practice. The concept(s) start right here. I should know because I have a tub full of snake oil sharpeners and two tubs full of ruined knifes. Have to have the concepts first and you can sharpen rebar on a rock. No concepts and a $1k sharpener will destroy your blades. That’s all I care to say about that. 😢 lol ✌️🙏🇺🇸
Your interlaced fingers "little tiny saw" demonstration never gets old!! Love that analogy! Whenever I break out a new GEC, I usually just hit it with the ceramic rod (cause I'm lazy and also suck at sharpening) but eventually and inevitably I have to bite the bullet and sharpen it, as the honed micro-bevel gets dull real quick. The ceramic rod's at least temporarily effective short term on 1095...I'd be having some problems with a super steel lol!! That's the first time I've ever heard someone describe a knife edge as being "glassy and toasted"...for a second I thought you were talking about your eyeballs after half-price Margarita Night at Frontera!! Lots of great information in this video, Slater!! I've always wondered about just how effective the round rod interaction (with your Mom!) on the ceramic differs from the flat edge interaction with a stone, and just how effective a honing-only approach is in the long term. It sounds like Not Very!! And like you said, especially not very effective long term with a blade that's already thick behind the edge fresh out the box. Actually, the more I think about it, thick blades kinda suck! Thiccc Moms: YESSS!!!...Thiccc knives: NOOO!!! Great video, Erica!!! 🧡🧡🧡
A much needed video!!!!
Cheers!
I don't use a ceramic rod for honing, but rather a flat ceramic stone. When I touching up a knife, first I use the ceramic stone and then a few strokes over a strop.
Yeah I have those too but people were specifically referring to the ceramic rod
I agree with most everything said in this video truly accurate information except for one part and that's that you can't re-establish an edge that's been taken too far dulled on a ceramic rod. I literally just did a video on it last night where I cut the Apex off and re-established a new Cutting Edge within like 50 seconds on a very fine ceramic rod now is this ideal? absolutely not and will that edge hold up like a freshly sharpened Edge? Again absolutely not when you're cutting a micro bevel into a pre-existing Edge bevel you are absolutely establishing a new Cutting Edge and micro serrations you are not just realigning teeth that is very much a myth. Now as you said once the edge is no longer responding well to a quick honing it is no longer efficient to try to hone The Edge back and it is time to remove that fatigued material on a sharpening stone to create a fresh Edge bevel and cutting edge/micro serrations. Good video Erica.
@@Edcreviewer there is no way anyone is properly apexing a knife on a ceramic rod. No one is reprofiling on a ceramic rod. Creating a new clean edge bevel that is flat- leading to a proper apex- will not be happening on a ceramic rod. That’s the point. Haha
What stone holder is that? Do you recommend!???
Yeah it’s great! From sharpeningsupplies.com
When I worked in Alaska after high school for a summer we actually used a metal sharpening rod quite often to keep our knives sharp for cleaning salmon.
I didnt use a flat sharpening stone for an entire summer but every hour or so I'd hone the edge.
I spent a good 80 hours a week minus lunch and dinner cleaning salmon.
The summer before I sheared Christmas trees with a machete and we used flat files to resharpen the machetes. So of course they werent razor sharp. But if they were they would have gotten full real quick
I suck at using a flat stone so I have one of those Benchmade and a Worksharp stone like you have in the video
Those angles on the ends keep my angle the same pretty much all the time
I have noticed that some of my knives with the better material are much harder to sharpen but stay sharp longer
Thanks for sharing all that! It’s really cool to hear other people’s experiences.
I disagree with the touching it up on a ceramic rod being more difficult with a thicker behind the edge. If you’re just using the ceramic to touch up the apex. Assuming you still have the same edge angle. Shouldn’t be any different
Should have clarified. I’m saying it won’t be as easy (more difficult), to get a keen honed micro bevel on a thicker BTE knife/a more obtuse edge angle from being so thick. It will dull faster. It will be more difficult to essentially keep up with a “sharp” edge as your knife gets thicker BTE/that edge gets more obtuse from sharpening. Unless you lay the edge back more like I said.
@ but let’s say you start off with a 17°. And after 60 sharpening’s and you still have a 17°. The behind the edge is thicker. But the apex of a 17° is the same either way
@@peterbiltknifeguy thick knives are more difficult to sharpen. That’s sorta the point I was making about using your knife over time and wearing the blade out/working into that thicker stock. It does become more difficult. Thin knives- thin BTE blades are easier to sharpen.
@peterbiltknifeguy but obtaining a sharp edge on a knife with 40thou BTE is going to be more difficult regardless of the DPS. If I take a knife 5thou BTE and put it at 17DPS, it’s going to sharpen SO much faster and easier than a knife with 40thou BTE and 17DPS. Like- a fillet knife will sharpen faster generally speaking than a machete haha. Thicker knives in general just tend to be a little more tricky to get sharp as opposed to thin knives.
@ no i agree. That’s why I was saying for the ceramic to hone. It shouldn’t be any different to hone the apex of a 17° knife with a 10 thousands or 30 thousands behind the edge knife as long as you are only touching up the apex is all I’m saying
What are you thoughts on using a flat ceramic surface as a finer grit in a sharpening progression? I have the work sharp tri surface with 320 grit, 600 grit, and ceramic. I’ve just been using the flat ceramic surface as the last progression before stropping. I’ll use compound for stopping in that progression, but for my touch ups I’ve just been using a plain leather belt (no compound) about once or twice a week. Lightly hit each side 3-5 times. I’m pretty happy with the results.
Great content, as always! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (mistake turkey blossom warfare blade until bachelor fall squeeze today flee guitar). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
@@IsabelleJones-v9t use the giraffe app to support your mom and you’ll get an A+ from A$APROCKY
Didn't realize people argue about this. But then again people will argue about anything.
It wasn’t an argument per say- just a misunderstanding I suppose?!
I've seen coworkers argue about how one said hello wrong... And I'm not kidding lol
@ uhm sounds like they need some calming moms in their life
If you want to know about honing rods I would suggest watching a video by "Hiroyuki Terada - Diaries of a Master Sushi Chef" . "HONING RODS: Are They Good For Japanese Steel?". I found it to be very informative
@@Pony5950 awesome thanks so much for the info!
Great topic and explanation!! Always on point!! Thanks E!
Hey thanks Ry!!!🎉🎉🎉
Good video, really enjoyed the explanation of what the difference is. I have been working on my free hand sharpening, getting better and actually learning and enjoying the experience. Thanks for sharing and have a great blessed week.
Awh YAY!!!! So proud of you!!!!!
I'm curious my fave.what are your feelings about the worksharp sharpener❤😊
@@CIGARURI which one? I don’t like Work Sharp haha this is just all I have for an example of a ceramic rod.
Good you pointed this out 👍
Thanks!
Awesome video!! Super informative!
@NamelessEDC thank you!!!!
Good job
Hey thanks!
But wood is non abrasive tho
Your mom is non abrasive
@@ericasedc Ooooh should have seen that one coming
Great Vid!!!
@@barboki thanks a bunch B!
Say flat one more time
@@TheScrawnyLumberjack your mom’s flat
@@ericasedcWow… LoL. That would be the reason for the Scrawny handle. Lucky to have survived on micro feedings at all. :)
@@mikehouser7587 Scrawny is the best
I'm glad you put out videos like this. Instead of just telling people to "learn how to sharpen their knives", you actually SHOW them, and that's pretty cool.👍Have a great night, E!
@@davidkurle5418 I appreciate you D! Have a wonderful evening!
I don’t think you’ve really talked much about honing before. Have you noticed if honing a knife with the super steels like K390 or Rex 121 is as effective as let’s say VG-10 or 154CM? I would suspect it works but maybe not as well on the really exotic high end steels.
Those simpler steels are way more responsive to touch ups on ceramic than those high hardness/high tungsten super steels. It’s not impossible- but like VG10 will get razor sharp in a few swipes and REX121 will probably take a hot second haha
Would u even bother with honing say 15v maxamet rex 121?
@ I haven’t tried
Still working on it. 😂😜😋
Woohoo!
Listening to you got me thinking. I have a MiniBuck tool in my pocket, and I have been carrying it daily since 1997, seriously every day. And I just realized I've never sharpened it, never even honed it. I nearly cut my thumb off with the blade in 1998. Thought I should take a look at the edge. It still has a bur on it from the factory 😮. Guess I need to hone it up and see how it cuts after. Not my thumb hopefully. 😕 Thanks Erica for the content.
Oh wow that’s impressive!
A dull knife is a dangerous knife
@@mrmouse-ol9pw To some degree, but I just sharpened 30-odd knives for a restaurant the other day and the head chef (dude with ALOT of experience) just sent me a picture of his thumb being split in two (lenghtwise if you are interested) down to the bone from the new, sharp knives. I agree that a dull knife is far more likely to cause an accident, but sharp knives absolutely cause more damage when something does happen.
People get the terminology skewed. There's two types of sharpenings: abrasive, which removes metal, and displacement, which moves the edge back into alignment. Stones are abrasive tools. Butcher steels are displacement tools. Ceramic rods are a hybrid of both. Stones meet the true definition of hones, for in the manufacturing world, hones remove metal. Have you ever heard of cylinder hones for sizing engine bores through abrasion? You should be able to steel a knife hundreds of times after initially honing (stoning), before having to stone it again. Professional meat cutters steel knives every ten minutes or so.
Thanks so much for watching!
Yet another excellent video. This discussion of honing vs sharpening reminded me of the talk around that “Sharpens Best” carbide piece of crap. Recently, some jackass was trying to convince me that it “is better than diamond stones” and was able to “hone and sharpen at the same time” so it makes a strop unnecessary. It took a lot of effort to not laugh in the dude’s face.
I would absolutely LOVE to see your no-bullshit take on that sharpener. Jerad did a video on it about a year ago, but he was far too kind.
I would NEVER feature that on my channel it’s embarrassing haha
@@ericasedc lol, fair enough.
Nice concept intro and on point. No magic sharpening bullets out there as they all take some training and practice. The concept(s) start right here. I should know because I have a tub full of snake oil sharpeners and two tubs full of ruined knifes. Have to have the concepts first and you can sharpen rebar on a rock. No concepts and a $1k sharpener will destroy your blades. That’s all I care to say about that. 😢 lol ✌️🙏🇺🇸
Haha thanks for watching!
Your interlaced fingers "little tiny saw" demonstration never gets old!! Love that analogy! Whenever I break out a new GEC, I usually just hit it with the ceramic rod (cause I'm lazy and also suck at sharpening) but eventually and inevitably I have to bite the bullet and sharpen it, as the honed micro-bevel gets dull real quick. The ceramic rod's at least temporarily effective short term on 1095...I'd be having some problems with a super steel lol!! That's the first time I've ever heard someone describe a knife edge as being "glassy and toasted"...for a second I thought you were talking about your eyeballs after half-price Margarita Night at Frontera!! Lots of great information in this video, Slater!! I've always wondered about just how effective the round rod interaction (with your Mom!) on the ceramic differs from the flat edge interaction with a stone, and just how effective a honing-only approach is in the long term. It sounds like Not Very!! And like you said, especially not very effective long term with a blade that's already thick behind the edge fresh out the box. Actually, the more I think about it, thick blades kinda suck! Thiccc Moms: YESSS!!!...Thiccc knives: NOOO!!! Great video, Erica!!! 🧡🧡🧡
@@floydmorrison2025 Jesse we flipping LOVE YOU!!!!!!