Cheap upgrade for Habror Freight tire changer -Update/improvement-

It's been over a year since we first modified our Harbor Freight manual tire changer, it's held up great but I had an idea to make it even better after almost scratching one of my wheels.
Parts used:
2" ID clamping collar from Amazon: a.co/d/fCPthEr
Low friction tape from Amazon: a.co/d/1yUl0oD
Duckbill head from Amazon: a.co/d/hxRQxzF
2 1/4" exhaust pipe section from Autozone: www.autozone.com/emission-con...
1 1/2" U-Bolts from HomeDepot: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...
I found the steel at a local supplier who sells scraps and off-cuts by weight. I highly recommend you shop local for metal and save probably 90% from ordering online.

[@charredskeleton]

The u-bolts are brilliant !

[@coreyperez13]

Awesome! Thanks for providing links

[@shiftwrenchrepeat]

Good job man, congrats on the first 1000 also! I got a small car channel too, just got over 2500. I’m gunna make one of these for my shop, good alternative to paying what 400 bucks for the lucid auto works??? Subscribed!

[@GreeceMonkeyz]

Yea dude, its very simple if you've got the tools. And I appreciate it!

[@RaysLaughsAndLyrics]

$149.00 @ Lucid for a basic complete unit. $199.00 for one with machined center cone.

[@Road_Rash]

​@@RaysLaughsAndLyrics still more expensive than this...

[@richbinaz]

I have a lower cost "bar" that works. No welding either. I may mod it one more time to stop it twisting, but otherwise it is this...
th-cam.com/video/W8MddFsFmgA/w-d-xo.html
Here it is working on a silverado tire
th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html
...Then I saw an inner tube can be used to get a stubborn bead on the rim

[@charredskeleton]

Bolt it to the floor. Mine is on anchors that sit below the surface so I can unbolt and store it in a corner when not in use.

[@GreeceMonkeyz]

Yeah, haven't picked a home for it yet, but you're right, I really need to.

[@genuinedickies99]

I welded a tow hitch to it and mount it to my truck. Solid as a rock.

[@charredskeleton]

@@genuinedickies99 I could see applications for that!

[@73dcp]

To add to the "bolt it down" theme... I found that bolting the unit down without using the cross member parts is infinitely more rigid. And the wheel is much more stable laying flat on the floor to break the bead.

[@richbinaz]

Did you install the final bead dry? Lube the duck bill too.
There are plastic drop center devices that hold the bead opposite the duck bill down and make install easier also.
What is your plan on balancing the tires afterwards?

[@GreeceMonkeyz]

I've seen those clamps, I need to get one. I used the Harbor Freight balancer to get them close, which for my application was enough, they're going on a kei truck that does 60 mph max. No vibrations at that speed so far.

[@richbinaz]

The clamps do help. I use 2 for removal and 1 for installing
Good luck with the HF balancer. A good test after initial balance is to lift the wheel , turn it 90° and put it back on the balancer. If it's still balanced, you are good to go.
@@GreeceMonkeyz

[@genuinedickies99]

you also need to reinforce the bead breaker, it will bend out of shape.

[@GreeceMonkeyz]

I've only been dealing with the little 12" wheels on my kei trucks so it hasn't been an issue, but you're right, it looks like it could use some help.

[@73dcp]

Since the end of the horizontal part of duck head attachment is open, why not just stick the bar in there? No further mod needed and it will provide much more leverage.

[@gatesj777]

I thought about that too but levering down lower puts less sideways stress on that vertical part, maybe that’s why?