Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video. I am about to reinstall the fairing I took off 18 months ago to paint, and your process flow is certain to save me several occasions of stop, back up three steps, and re-start. My job will be a little busier - I will install the instrument panel fuses and teh side pockets. I use some one-inch-thick teflon foam to protect the tank from the side pockets. That foam was originally intended for sealing large (15 inch and up) high-pressure flange joints in petroleum processing plants.
Another wonderfully detailed video. Thanks for sharing it for the benefit of other RT owners ...and prospective owners, like me! That's an interesting story from the designer, about the horizontal lines on the headlamp cover glass, but I wonder how many people have lost their licence after asking you the story behind them! I never knew what they were, but I honestly thought those clever Germans had installed defrosting elements in the glass for winter riding!
"Fisheye" headlight glass story (from an old airhead comrade): Lines on back of glass (occasionally replaced with rear window defroster tape); the lines warm up from headlight, warming the glass and defogging the lens...JFF.
This was just what I needed. I had to remove the lower fairings to clean up my bike. Looks like it hasn't been done in quite a while. Thanks. So far, I only have one gripe about my new (to me) 1981 R100RT...the fuse location inside the headlight bucket. Out of curiosity, I pretty much peeked into every place I could to get familiar with the bike, which meant digging into the headlight. Yikes...I wouldn't want to have to change a fuse on the road with that setup. I reckon I will probably relocate some of that rats nest...probably to under the tank.
Joe, some folks have moved the fuses elsewhere for easier access. That said, all I have to do is remove the "fisheye" glass cover from the fairing, then remove the headlight to get access to the fuses. You can pop them out with a key or a smalls stick if you are on the road, or a pair of needle nose pliers in the shop. One advantage of putting them inside the headlight shell is they are well protected from water getting at them.
My RT shield got hit with rock and I found Slipstream made in UK windscreen that really looks good on the RT fairing. I hope i never need this vid to take my rubber ducky fairing apart. :) I broke the dry gasket pull throughs and used shoe goo to adhere the gasket with tape holding it flush to screen.
Greetings from the Philippines! Your video is very timely as I am currently restoring my 1984 R100RT. I just took apart the fairing to have it repainted. That windshield was a huge problem. I used a dremel to slowly grind the edge of the rivets away. When I took it apart the I remember that the windshield rubber gasket was between the instrument panel and fairing. In your case, the rubber gasket was on top of the instrument panel. Did you do this because it was an easier way to reinstall the windshield?
Hi Obi Wan, No, I installed the gasket that way as it seemed like that's where it should go. Since I never disassembled this fairing, I had no clue as to the gasket orientation. Your stock configuration confirms it should have been under the dash, not on top. Oh well, next time I remove the windscreen an dash, I can relocate the gasket. Thanks for telling me about how your gasket was installed.
I was wondering if you could help me. I have a 77 R100S with an RT fairing on it (the previous owner was apparently converting it to an RT). This also meant he did some creative rewiring. I've been chasing a bad ground, but lately, the issue has compounded with the headlight indicator lights no longer lighting up. So I decided to pull all the wires off, clean the board, and now I want to reconnect them. Problem is... I don't really know where some go. The wiring for the blinker, for example, isn't represented on the wiring diagram I have (the left blinker has a black, orange, and light blue wire). The orange wire was clipped into a combiner (that blue plastic thing with a bit of metal in it to connect two wires) with a blue and red wire. The light blue was soldered to a blue and black. And I don't remember where the black one went. I'm autistic, and looking at the wiring diagram makes me feel overstimulated with visual input.
Hi ,greetings from Arbroath ,Scotland . Thank you for this informative video how to do.... I was stuck big time and without your assistance it would have been one long headache.Three minor points to include I believe each instrument you installed may have benefited by having a large o ring around the bezels, but you may have had them on in the shot and I could not see them .The windscreen height is important to consider if you have not yet bought one. Do you look over it or through it debate? There are some height differences avilable.Finally I worked out an easy time saving method to insert those pesky rubber rivits.I used thickish fishing line and vaseline to tie one single knot around the wide end then gently pull through windscreen.I had no breakages but its important to use a thicker fishing line as a thinner one can cut into the rubber. Take care, Richard Allan.
Richard, Thank you for these tips. I did forget to install the O-rings. BMW no longer has them but Euro MotoElectrics shows they have them. I'll add those when I need to any changes to the instruments or dash. I look over the screen and at the highest position, it's about the correct height for me. There is a little buffeting so I may add a "wing" air deflector on top as I did on my 1977 RS build to better manage the air flow around my head.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hi, I am 5 feet 11.5 and tall but bought a lower screen because I was worried it would mark easily and then the option for looking over it is lost. I do wonder how much of a difference the taller screen would make. Also here in the Uk, Motoworks in Holmfirth, England also sell those O rings. Thanks for a great channel you will save me time and money.,Richard.
Hello, I recently had to remove the fairing from my '95 monolever R100RT and I left the upper fairing in one unit (left and right uppers, center upper, gasket, windshield, and dashboard). Now I'm restoring an '89 R100RT and was thinking of assembling these components off the bike and mounting them as a unit. Is there any reason why this method wouldn't work? Incidentally, I love your videos and learned a lot from them. The idea of replacing the gasket rivets with nylon screws is a stroke of genius. Do you remember which size you used? I'm thinking M6x12, but would appreciate your input.
Hi Marc, I find it hard to align the different panels with the upper, middle and lower fairing bracket if all the panels are assembled. It was easier for me to get everything aligned by building it up one panel at a time. And, it helped me avoid dinking up the paint job. That said, take a run at installing all the panels as a unit and see what you think. The link in the summary underneath the video pane has all the details about the hardware and procedure to install the fairing.
Your descriptions and solutions are SO good! I had a 1983 RT once and I think it had a rubber boot at the top of each fork leg so the fairing didn’t have 2 big holes through the fairing - will you install these later or maybe it’s not an RS thing? Stay safe🕊
Hi Ernie, I opted to use the rubber fork gators instead of the rubber boot that installs in the oblong holes in the center panels. The gators protect the fork tubes from getting nicked from gravel which keeps the seals from leaking.
My R75 at 93k, never had a fork seal leak. My 78 R100RS forks leaked at 35k. Beauty over function. I Love my RS, but simple maintenance is tough. Due to the fairing. Hell I get it. That's what it takes to go 123 mph. But honestly, anything under 70 mph is painful. I used it as a 20 mile each way to work. My fault, out of its element. But I sure looked good doing it.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage So was the "takes the eye away from...." story true? I'd heard somewhere that they were a primitive defroster/deicer. As in light hits the lines and heats them up. All I know is I don't want to be riding in conditions where any deicer is needed :) I think RAM is a better story!
@@edwardj456 The story I relate about the reason for the lines is directly from the designer of the bike, Hans Muth. There are lots of other stories, but they are urban myths.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage It would be fun to see a list of all the myths. But I can see how the designer did a great job, the eye is pulled from the tunnel to the orange lines. Thanks for that story!
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thanks for the reply . i have gaiters the same and i was going to swap to fairing type gaiter but clearly works for you and i don't have to strip the fork tubes to fit ,so will do the same as you. I can only thank you again for such a well produced video. Had i not seen it , i may not be fitting. i can now check i have everything before i start and hopefully get it back on the road quickly. many thanks 60over3rd *****AAAAA*******
Love your work..I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a vido on how to remove the faring..for a BMW R100RS..I thought I had seen one posted I should have saved it..in any even any help would be welcome..as Im sure there is a very specific procedure to make it easy...
Lowell, I show how I remove the RS fairing on a 1983 RS my website. brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/46-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-windscreen-fairing-dash-volt-meter-clock-ignition-switch/ I also have some documentation for the 1977 RS, which uses the same fairing panels. brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1977-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/46-bmw-1977-r100rs-remove-disassemble-bodywork/
I am just trying to assemble one that came in boxes. Bike done, onto the fairing. Do the cylinder covers have another nut on the engine mounting bolt or do they use the nut that also holds the engine? It makes a difference to the width of the fairing. I can make it fit with and without an extra nut but just wondered which is correct.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I did look at the link and read it. I couldn't work out if it was a second nut or not from the video or the description. One nut it is. I should finish today I think. Thanks.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage That works. :) Now having done the job I think a health warning would be in order. Absolutely the worst job I have ever done on an Airhead. More of a Tourettes syndrome test or for figuring the flying ability of spanners. Never again. :)
Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video. I am about to reinstall the fairing I took off 18 months ago to paint, and your process flow is certain to save me several occasions of stop, back up three steps, and re-start. My job will be a little busier - I will install the instrument panel fuses and teh side pockets. I use some one-inch-thick teflon foam to protect the tank from the side pockets. That foam was originally intended for sealing large (15 inch and up) high-pressure flange joints in petroleum processing plants.
Another wonderfully detailed video. Thanks for sharing it for the benefit of other RT owners ...and prospective owners, like me!
That's an interesting story from the designer, about the horizontal lines on the headlamp cover glass, but I wonder how many people have lost their licence after asking you the story behind them!
I never knew what they were, but I honestly thought those clever Germans had installed defrosting elements in the glass for winter riding!
So well done, Brooks Garage - thank you !!! - G. Hartl, West Bend, WI
Another very thorough and informative presentation. Thanks for posting.Thanks for the Bolt Guy link
You're welcome Don.
"Fisheye" headlight glass story (from an old airhead comrade): Lines on back of glass (occasionally replaced with rear window defroster tape); the lines warm up from headlight, warming the glass and defogging the lens...JFF.
This was just what I needed. I had to remove the lower fairings to clean up my bike. Looks like it hasn't been done in quite a while. Thanks.
So far, I only have one gripe about my new (to me) 1981 R100RT...the fuse location inside the headlight bucket. Out of curiosity, I pretty much peeked into every place I could to get familiar with the bike, which meant digging into the headlight. Yikes...I wouldn't want to have to change a fuse on the road with that setup. I reckon I will probably relocate some of that rats nest...probably to under the tank.
Joe, some folks have moved the fuses elsewhere for easier access. That said, all I have to do is remove the "fisheye" glass cover from the fairing, then remove the headlight to get access to the fuses. You can pop them out with a key or a smalls stick if you are on the road, or a pair of needle nose pliers in the shop. One advantage of putting them inside the headlight shell is they are well protected from water getting at them.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I can't argue with the protection they get from living inside the headlight bucket.
Absolutely excellent. Just in the middle of this same job. Many thanks.
You're welcome Mark.
My RT shield got hit with rock and I found Slipstream made in UK windscreen that really looks good on the RT fairing. I hope i never need this vid to take my rubber ducky fairing apart. :) I broke the dry gasket pull throughs and used shoe goo to adhere the gasket with tape holding it flush to screen.
HoverbotFPV, I liked the Super Glue since it set up quickly. I'll have to see how well it lasts.
Greetings from the Philippines! Your video is very timely as I am currently restoring my 1984 R100RT. I just took apart the fairing to have it repainted. That windshield was a huge problem. I used a dremel to slowly grind the edge of the rivets away. When I took it apart the I remember that the windshield rubber gasket was between the instrument panel and fairing. In your case, the rubber gasket was on top of the instrument panel. Did you do this because it was an easier way to reinstall the windshield?
Hi Obi Wan, No, I installed the gasket that way as it seemed like that's where it should go. Since I never disassembled this fairing, I had no clue as to the gasket orientation. Your stock configuration confirms it should have been under the dash, not on top. Oh well, next time I remove the windscreen an dash, I can relocate the gasket. Thanks for telling me about how your gasket was installed.
I was wondering if you could help me. I have a 77 R100S with an RT fairing on it (the previous owner was apparently converting it to an RT). This also meant he did some creative rewiring. I've been chasing a bad ground, but lately, the issue has compounded with the headlight indicator lights no longer lighting up. So I decided to pull all the wires off, clean the board, and now I want to reconnect them. Problem is... I don't really know where some go. The wiring for the blinker, for example, isn't represented on the wiring diagram I have (the left blinker has a black, orange, and light blue wire). The orange wire was clipped into a combiner (that blue plastic thing with a bit of metal in it to connect two wires) with a blue and red wire. The light blue was soldered to a blue and black. And I don't remember where the black one went. I'm autistic, and looking at the wiring diagram makes me feel overstimulated with visual input.
Hi ,greetings from Arbroath ,Scotland .
Thank you for this informative video how to do.... I was stuck big time and without your assistance it would have been one long headache.Three minor points to include I believe each instrument you installed may have benefited by having a large o ring around the bezels, but you may have had them on in the shot and I could not see them .The windscreen height is important to consider if you have not yet bought one. Do you look over it or through it debate? There are some height differences avilable.Finally I worked out an easy time saving method to insert those pesky rubber rivits.I used thickish fishing line and vaseline to tie one single knot around the wide end then gently pull through windscreen.I had no breakages but its important to use a thicker fishing line as a thinner one can cut into the rubber. Take care, Richard Allan.
Richard, Thank you for these tips. I did forget to install the O-rings. BMW no longer has them but Euro MotoElectrics shows they have them. I'll add those when I need to any changes to the instruments or dash. I look over the screen and at the highest position, it's about the correct height for me. There is a little buffeting so I may add a "wing" air deflector on top as I did on my 1977 RS build to better manage the air flow around my head.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hi, I am 5 feet 11.5 and tall but bought a lower screen because I was worried it would mark easily and then the option for looking over it is lost. I do wonder how much of a difference the taller screen would make. Also here in the Uk, Motoworks in Holmfirth, England also sell those O rings. Thanks for a great channel you will save me time and money.,Richard.
Hello, I recently had to remove the fairing from my '95 monolever R100RT and I left the upper fairing in one unit (left and right uppers, center upper, gasket, windshield, and dashboard). Now I'm restoring an '89 R100RT and was thinking of assembling these components off the bike and mounting them as a unit. Is there any reason why this method wouldn't work? Incidentally, I love your videos and learned a lot from them. The idea of replacing the gasket rivets with nylon screws is a stroke of genius. Do you remember which size you used? I'm thinking M6x12, but would appreciate your input.
Hi Marc, I find it hard to align the different panels with the upper, middle and lower fairing bracket if all the panels are assembled. It was easier for me to get everything aligned by building it up one panel at a time. And, it helped me avoid dinking up the paint job. That said, take a run at installing all the panels as a unit and see what you think.
The link in the summary underneath the video pane has all the details about the hardware and procedure to install the fairing.
FWIW, pulling rubber nibs through windscreen: Coat them with dish soap.
Your descriptions and solutions are SO good! I had a 1983 RT once and I think it had a rubber boot at the top of each fork leg so the fairing didn’t have 2 big holes through the fairing - will you install these later or maybe it’s not an RS thing? Stay safe🕊
Hi Ernie, I opted to use the rubber fork gators instead of the rubber boot that installs in the oblong holes in the center panels. The gators protect the fork tubes from getting nicked from gravel which keeps the seals from leaking.
My R75 at 93k, never had a fork seal leak. My 78 R100RS forks leaked at 35k. Beauty over function. I Love my RS, but simple maintenance is tough. Due to the fairing. Hell I get it. That's what it takes to go 123 mph. But honestly, anything under 70 mph is painful. I used it as a 20 mile each way to work. My fault, out of its element. But I sure looked good doing it.
I love the story about the anti-radar system in the headlight cover. How has that worked out for you Brooks?
Peter, No "Performance Awards" so far on the 1977 R100RS :-). I expect the same on this bike.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage So was the "takes the eye away from...." story true? I'd heard somewhere that they were a primitive defroster/deicer. As in light hits the lines and heats them up. All I know is I don't want to be riding in conditions where any deicer is needed :) I think RAM is a better story!
@@edwardj456 The story I relate about the reason for the lines is directly from the designer of the bike, Hans Muth. There are lots of other stories, but they are urban myths.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage It would be fun to see a list of all the myths. But I can see how the designer did a great job, the eye is pulled from the tunnel to the orange lines. Thanks for that story!
wonderfull video thanks . no fork/fairing gaiters though?.
I decided to use fork gaiters to protect the tubes from getting nicked.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thanks for the reply . i have gaiters the same and i was going to swap to fairing type gaiter but clearly works for you and i don't have to strip the fork tubes to fit ,so will do the same as you. I can only thank you again for such a well produced video.
Had i not seen it , i may not be fitting. i can now check i have everything before i start and hopefully get it back on the road quickly.
many thanks 60over3rd
*****AAAAA*******
Did you buy this RT fairing new?...............Your bike is looking Very nice!!............did you have the pin striping hand done? very nice!!
Hi Alan, The windscreen is used. The pin stripe work was done by a pin stripper and I will be posting some video I took while he did the work soon.
Love your work..I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a vido on how to remove the faring..for a BMW R100RS..I thought I had seen one posted I should have saved it..in any even any help would be welcome..as Im sure there is a very specific procedure to make it easy...
Lowell, I show how I remove the RS fairing on a 1983 RS my website.
brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/46-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-windscreen-fairing-dash-volt-meter-clock-ignition-switch/
I also have some documentation for the 1977 RS, which uses the same fairing panels.
brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1977-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/46-bmw-1977-r100rs-remove-disassemble-bodywork/
I am just trying to assemble one that came in boxes. Bike done, onto the fairing. Do the cylinder covers have another nut on the engine mounting bolt or do they use the nut that also holds the engine? It makes a difference to the width of the fairing. I can make it fit with and without an extra nut but just wondered which is correct.
they use the engine stud and nut. Click on the link under the video to see read the document showing all the details of this work.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I did look at the link and read it. I couldn't work out if it was a second nut or not from the video or the description. One nut it is. I should finish today I think. Thanks.
@@johndkn Ok, I added a note in the section of the web page clarifying that the nut is the same M12 used to secure the front engine stud.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage That works. :) Now having done the job I think a health warning would be in order. Absolutely the worst job I have ever done on an Airhead. More of a Tourettes syndrome test or for figuring the flying ability of spanners. Never again. :)
@@johndkn Endeavor To Persevere 🙂
Would you be able to share where you bought the ignition switch marker plate? Can’t seem to find it anywhere. Thanks.
Rhys, I can be ordered from any BMW motorcycle dealer, Part# 61 32 1 243 267, about $10.00 US.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thanks so much!
@@rhysvleugel6947 You're Welcome.