Dockmasters 2024 Final recap - Interview with route setters & athletes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- Jake and Niki visited the Dockmasters 2024 at Boulderhal Energiehaven in Utrecht to set some Boulders for the qualification round.
For the first time ever I tried to capture some before & after comp comments from setters & athletes - cool show & cool boulders.
I hope you like the quick & dirty episode.
Thanks to climb-holds.com for making it possible & the cool Axis & Squadra boulders - will take a closer look at them in another episode!
ww.climb-holds.com
www.axisroundedges.com
www.boulderhalenergiehaven.nl
Finals setting team:
Olga Niemiec (POL) - olga_niemiec
Max Sembely (FRA) - la_visseuse_da_cote
Kaleb Thomas (CAN) - kalebcthomas
Maelys Agrapart (FRA) - maelys.agrapart
Fred Charron (CAN) - pCHyku7DDZnb/
Romain Cabessut (FRA) - la_visseuse_da_cote
Results:
1. Stasa Gejo - gejostasa
2. Camilla Moroni - camilla.moroni
3. Jessy Pilz - jessy_pilz
4. Julija Kruder - julijakruder
5. Elnaz Rekabi - elnaz.rekabi
6. Laura Rogora - laura.rogora
1. Arthur Teenant - arth.pixe
2. Alberto Gines Lopez - albertogines_
3. Slav Kirov - slav_kirov
4. Vyacheslav Krasnoperov - vyacheslav_krasnoperov
5. Don van Laere - donvanlaere
6. Gregor Vezonik - gregorvezonik
DOCK MASTERS 2024
JANUARY 27 + 28 / UTRECHT / THE NETHERLANDS
Bouldering gym Energiehaven is proud to present the annual Dock Masters: a two-day world class bouldering competition.
Dock Masters gives an opportunity for spectators to watch professional climbers compete in an intimate setting while providing pro climbers with the opportunity to compete for a €10,000 cash purse. Recreational climbers can push themselves and their peers in the skin testing all-you-can-climb rounds of 50 boulders in all levels and win a total of €7,500 worth of prizes by reaching the podium or in the raffles.
Hotel and entry to the competition will be provided for all athletes with a top 40 IFSC boulder World Cup ranking and/or a top 40 World ranking in boulder.
For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh
If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: / heldniklas
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QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
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Very thankful for all setters & athletes who endured my questions in their stressful environment after setting for a week straight / competing for two days in a row!
more videos with routesetting content coming soon
I really like the format with the interviews - very enjoyable to watch
Wow, didn't expect content this fast!
I loved how a few people tried to break the beta on M4 and almost did it. Also loved all the different ways to do M1 first move
Really nice video!!! I would love to see some more content on how we can set boulders for newer climbers (Avoiding Jug ladders) Thanks!
Setting for this comp was REALLY disappointing on the women's side! 3 of 4 boulders hugely favored taller climbers and pretty much ZERO small box/bunched moves to make it a bit more fair...
mho which ones would you say favoured taller climbers that much?
I'd agree with the fact that the mens finals had way more space and better "material" and space to unfold... I think the women's boulders were cramped into smaller spaces... underrepresented so to say?
glad to hear your opinion about the blocs and share that feedback with the setters! :)
Thanks for the reply and being willing to hear feedback. I think there needs to be more shorter setters and test climbers, especially for the women (which I think are way harder to set for with the variability: take Ai Mori vs. Stasa Gejo).
Here are the moves that looked to really favor taller athletes in the women's final:
Women's 1: Move to zone, finish move
Women's 2: Finish dyno
Women's 3: Move off zone
Especially the move on women's 3, but all round there were almost no moves that would favor someone like Laura vs. Stasa!