This is a very detailed video, your explanation specifically in regards to identifying crank timing marks and tensioner torquing sequence is A1.. and seems to be somewhat overlooked or vague on other videos.. cheers 🍻
Any one can do this after watching this very informative video. I buy and sell Camrys from 1997-2001 models and I've done several jobs like this one thanks to this video. Its been very profitable.
@@NijahovaWorld LOL! Not my fault you cannot follow directions / instructions. You might be better off just sending your vehicle to the junk yard and taking the bus any where you go buddy.
Thanks This cuts some of the confusion from the Chilton manual that showed lining up with a hole. the camshaft has both a hole and a tick mark. I will go with the tick mark you showed. May God Bless my motor with excellent timing.
I purchased a 1997 Camry last year for a reasonable price that I couldn’t resist! My wife at first was against it. Had new tires, new timing belt and water pump, brakes, battery, and new headlamps. The car would run for about 15 seconds and shut down immediately. Further inspection revealed that Crank Shaft sprocket had couple of teeth missing. The person who performed the work previously probably damaged the sprocket and wasn’t aware of the damage when installed. Turns out the ECM was unable to read the needed CS sprocket teeth causing the engine to shut down. Went to the local salvage yard. Replaced the CS sprocket ⚙️ and now I have I have a dependable back up car 😁 I use it to commute to work now since fuel prices are freakin’ out of this world! 😡
I suggest when you replace your timing belt to use a larger diameter timing belt idler bearing. Stock is a 13503-63011 Off the top of my head is 10mm bolt hole size Width 29mm Diameter 57mm There are bearings available in Europe that are 60mm in diameter 3mm larger that will allow the belt tensioner to have some available travel to adjust the belt so it's not loose. Gates part number T42226 Manufacturing issues from Toyota for replacement belts and Mitsuboshi belts also. OEM belt 13568-09041 Crank seal 90080-31022 Cam seal 90089-31023 Oil pump o-ring 15188-63010 Oil pump shaft seal 15165-70010 Replace all of those every time. Only use Aisin water pumps Mitsuboshi timing belt or OEM Drive belts are 5pk1110 Alt/AC 3pk760 or 750 for Power Steering Replace the power steering pump O-ring when apart The feed elbow will leak or better yet get reseal kit for the pump. Easy to reseal. Main housing gasket only fits one way ( correctly ) or they leak. This engine 3SFE or 5SFE are non-interfance engines. If belt breaks or is apart valves will NOT hit the pistons.
@@TheOriginalMechanic 32+ years working for Toyota. Now independent. Had a bodysuit charge a friend for a new rear bumper cover and NEVER replaced the bumper. I suggested the friend report to her insurance company this TRUTHFUL FACT and they got in her face. So I emailed them. That bodysuit was a customer of where I worked. I was called into managers office and told 2 things. 1st was the manager at that body shop had called and said I reported them for insurance fraud. 2nd was internal departmental stuff and demoted me. For doing what Lawful and Honest June of 2019. Jan of 2021 I put in my notice. Honesty 1st and ALWAYS.
@@richsmobileautorepair9203 man the world needs more people like you uncle rich truth first even if it hurts would love to work at your shop if you’re hiring 🤠
@@zeekfranco509 thanks for the comment. I'm trying to work on my foundation in life. The rear end collision and whiplash plus brain injury has cost me so much. I'm working on preparing to create videos to not only show repairs but explain why I live the way I do and encourage people to be different than society. Too many people focus on MONEY money money. I focus on PEOPLE people people. My way I will NEVER have to advertise to get work. My customers advertise for me and I DONT have to. Just do whats in their best interest. They will gladly pay me and I get many tips from happy customers. I do this to help people. I mentored a young man I know. 18 years old. He said he wanted to repair his trucks brakes himself but he lacked the abilities and the tools. I told him. You have everything you don't have yourself in me. I will help you. He did an awesome job plus he got the experience and the pride in doing the job himself. His dad died 7 years ago. I filled in for his dad. Be a dad to those who don't have one. Be a good person for anyone so they know what a good person looks like, acts like and lives like. They will notice. Rich
1 year later, the engine exploded, and I sold it. I'm now doing this on a second car, and the timing was off when I installed it the first time. Just doing it again today. :( But I will account for the taut part.
I've done many of these but never installed lower cover to check for 45 degrees. I just line up timing marks on cam and crank, rotate crank 2 revolutions, verify timing marks didn't move, and make sure there's tension on front side of belt. I then put everything back together. They always run perfect when I'm done, so I don't know why you waste time lining up 45 degrees on lower cover and mark on harmonic balancer. I have 360K on my 97 Camry and it still runs like new. I suggest marking the notch on intake camshaft with white out to make it more visible.
Yeah I specialize in the Northstar engine but recently bought my 16 year old a camry. That 45 degree thing made no sense to me. He did not demonstrate the 1.75 turn thing because it doesn't line up. He must be referring to the cam pulley..... I don't know. Glad I turn wrenches for a living. If you spin it twice and you land on the zero your settings are perfect.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the spring on the tensioner pulley has only one short function- to put tension on the belt once the belt is in place and you then loosen the pulley nut to put tension on the belt while you hand-crank the engine clockwise 1 & 3/4 turns. After that, you re-tighten the tensioner pulley's nut only after you've made sure of both timing mark alignments and have equal belt tension everywhere. The spring is then done for the rest of it's life, right? This is opposed to believing the spring is constantly putting tension on the belt, which makes more sense to me and is seen with many other engine types.
I tighten the tensioner pulley before I rotate crankshaft because the belt tends to jump teeth and mess up crankshaft and camshaft alignment if I don't. If I have to readjust after turning crank 720 degrees, then I loosen it again and repeat.
68 W learning disabiities kickin in, have watched several of the belt/pump replacement But why does a leaking water pump weep hole happen- why weep hole??? happen Cant I just plug gthe hole with felt plug? how is it desinged to fail?
Thanks for the video! I have noticed that the very front of the lower timing belt cover where it mounts to the water pump has a broken off mounting tab. I wonder if it broke during disassembly? I’m replacing TB/WP, pulleys, spring and all the seals/o-rings, gaskets on my 97 Celica with 5SFE engine and just broke off that tab. It seems the metal sleeve inside that mounting tab has rusted/welded itself onto the water pump and I can’t seem to be able to pull that cover off without breaking the tab. I really do not want to buy a new lower TB cover because of this. Do you have any pointers as to how to take it off without breaking it off completely? Thank you!!!
Maybe spray some PB blaster or WD40 in there and then work it (gently) back and forth. You can't use high heat around plastic, but maybe a blow dryer just to soften the plastic and make it less likely to crack further.
@The Original Mechanic: thank you sir! I pried it out gently. I have now successfully completed the job. For the time invested (2 days) I wonder if it almost worth paying someone $600-$800 to do the job. The satisfaction of job done though is priceless! In my case it is worth the effort since I won’t need to do it again for 10 years (I only put about 5,000 miles on the car per year)
Just a word of advise to do this job on the 2.2l 5SFE.... It would be wise to get a Japanese tensioner and idler pulleys such as Koyo or NKS that say Japan on them. They also make bearings in China as well, but those are failure prone. Also, get an Aisan water pump (with housing) and if you want to go first class, get a Gates Blue extended wear Racing timing belt. You should also consider getting both new drive belts for the alt/ac comp and PS pump and a new OEM thermostat as well as a gallon of Pentafrost HOAT (red) coolant and a gallon of distilled water. You can thank me later with a lb of bacon (crispy).
Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.
So one reason I got into trouble with the new install was I didn't rotate by hand before solidifying the tensioner's position. Once the car started the timing belt did skip because of uneven distribution of the tension and tightening the tensioner at max up position. The car wouldn't restart and all my nice white-out marks were out of line. That's just FYI. So highly recommend a number of hand rotations with a breaker bar before tightening the tension in place. My real question is why does my Cam pulley not look like yours? It's a 97 Camry. When lined up with the hole to dimple my camshaft indicator is more like 9 o'clock just passing the camshaft sensor. Yours is like at 1 o'clock? Are they that different?
Did you torque crankshaft pulley bolt after installing timing belt? Also, did you use a pulley holder when tightening bolt or you just used an impact wrench? Thanks.
At what point in the video is the part where you use the holding means to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt? I can't seem to find it. Thanks for a very informative video.
The indent that lines up behind the hole on the crankshaft pulley.. as long as you can feel it through the hole with the allen wrench are you golden? It seems impossible to get perfectly centered since there's no way to look through the hole. I installed my belt 3 times now to test drive.. unsuccessfully. I'm going to count the teeth on my belt to double check that's not the problem child.
True, you can't see that little mark through the hole. I found that frustrating too, so when I used a dab of white paint instead. Fortunately, I had no problems .
@@TheOriginalMechanic I can't remember how but the camshaft pulley ended up advanced from TDC when the belt was off, you can't crank backwards so I turned a full revolution independently from the harmonic back to TDC, I'll definitely be painting aline above the notch when it's honed in. Great video
@AlexWilliams-ou5si I assume you're talking about the hole on the camshaft pulley and the indentation on the camshaft. I know you're probably already done with your job but for future visitors: the best thing to do is mark the indentation on camshaft with white out and use a mirror to look through the hole to verify it's lined up with indentation,
If I turn the crankshaft bolt one revolution,then i am at TDC? Two revolutions and I am still at TDC? Three revolutions and I am still at TDC? Is this correct?As long as I do a 360 from the pulley notch to mark 0 I will always be at TDC?
@@albertop5320 Your questions are beyond what I'm able to confidently answer. Right or wrong, I was able to line up the cams and crank without paying attention to top dead center, only to the timing positions of those three components.
@@albertop5320 When the timing belt is installed, the camshaft rotates once for every 2 crankshaft revolutions, so when the timing marks on engine block and crankshaft timing gear are aligned, piston #1 is either at top dead center or at top of exhaust stroke. This is because the timing belt connects crankshaft and camshafts and the camshafts open and close the inttake and exhaust valves. The valves will be in different positions every consecutive crankshaft revolution. One revolution all valves will be closed as piston #1 is coming up to TDC.. Next revolution exhaust valves will be closing as piston #1 reaches the top of its travel, so not every revolution (360 degrees) of crankshaft puts piston #1 at TDC. If the timing belt is not installed, then piston #1 can be considered to be at TDC on every revolution of the crankshaft as long as timing marks on engine block and crankshaft timing gear are lined up. This is because there isn't a timing belt connecting the crankshaft and camshaft together. TDC isn't only determined by crankshaft positon, it's determined by the combination of crankshaft and camshaft positions. I know it's a long winded answer but I hope it helps.
In some great cars you can put timing belt without touching anyhting you jsut go there thake out and put new one without dessamble any did or mes with anyhting,, made i severla time.. you just need to take cover out of course.
I have a few question, which I will explain why I'm asking afterward. I'm a little confused about a few things... What is the reasoning behind turning the timing belt exactly 1-7/8th turms before tightening the tensioner pulley? In other words what does it matter when the tensioner gets tightened in this procedure? Is this simply to seat the belt and then confirm the timing marks are still aligned, but at 45º? And secondly, if the tensioner pulley is torqued down to 31ft. lbs., does that mean the spring is no longer fighting the belt tension as the tensioner pulley is then locked down? (I figured it would always be tensioned by the spring, not locked down in any way). The reason I ask is my pristine 99 Camry with 108K had it's timing belt done at the technical college my wife works at last week. As a perk, we get free labor so this allows me to buy the best parts b/c we save all that money. It's truly a god-send. They have always done a super job as the teacher always checks everything. He told me he checked the timing marks before the student closed everything up, but I'm not sure he was there for some of the smaller stuff as he has a class to watch over. Anyway, now there is a noise of something loose only when the engine just warming up. It's even worse when there's a load on the engine, but only when it's cold. . Here's a video I made where you can hear it; th-cam.com/video/VpIfTVyXVmU/w-d-xo.html Anyway, the teacher is going to look at it this Monday. The enging really runs great, so I'm racking my head trying to figure out what this noise is.... maybe it was the foam cover gasket that's allowing the cover to be hit slightly by a pulley or the cover is not tighened down... idunno? Maybe that metal dust plate over the crank is on backward-bowed side in? Again, I supplied and pre-checked all the parts... all good Japan or USA parts. The Koyo bearings and the Aisin H20 pump- all perfect. The Gates Blue Racing belt looked 100% perfect in every way. There are no leaks, enging pulls like new on the highway. Maybe the tensioner wasn;t torqued down, which is why I was asking about it. Sorry for the long post
I was puzzled as well about the 1 7/8 rotation before torquing down the timing belt tensioner. This seems to be a way to even the tension on the belt before finalizing the torque. I've seen other makes that use a similar method. As for the noise, I took a listen but couldn't point you in one direction or the other. It is troubling though. The quality parts you had installed should eliminate a bad pulley or tensioner as a cause. You should have the technical college take another look...hey they are learning and sometimes redoing a repair is the best way to learn. .
@@TheOriginalMechanic Well thank for your response. The teacher at the college will look at it on Monday. I dbl checked my gas mileage too. It's down from 29mpg to 19mpg. Something ain't right. Maybe the timing is off by a tooth. I'll keep you posted.
Jesus, fix the oil leaks and clean that bloody thing first! You’re putting a new belt back on dirty and oily components - amateurish at best, but mostly just sloppy.
This is a very detailed video, your explanation specifically in regards to identifying crank timing marks and tensioner torquing sequence is A1.. and seems to be somewhat overlooked or vague on other videos.. cheers 🍻
Any one can do this after watching this very informative video. I buy and sell Camrys from 1997-2001 models and I've done several jobs like this one thanks to this video. Its been very profitable.
U n FLA??
Can you help me pls. I didnt mark the camshafts before I removed them. However I did mark the timing marks on top dead center. How do you fit them???
Fuck outta here this shit is not easy at all
@@NijahovaWorld LOL! Not my fault you cannot follow directions / instructions. You might be better off just sending your vehicle to the junk yard and taking the bus any where you go buddy.
this is Victor wife ❤ 🥰 @deeclark9357
Thanks This cuts some of the confusion from the Chilton manual that showed lining up with a hole. the camshaft has both a hole and a tick mark. I will go with the tick mark you showed. May God Bless my motor with excellent timing.
Is this Ted from Pleasant St. in Framingham?
@@thegee-tahguy4877 Hi I did live there A long time ago. Who am i talking to Gee tah Guy ? you have my curiosity
I really love the cut scenes
Thank you for making this very informative video. Why do Toyota make all their marking barely visible to the naked eye.
no1 wants U too be able to doit
I purchased a 1997 Camry last year for a reasonable price that I couldn’t resist! My wife at first was against it. Had new tires, new timing belt and water pump, brakes, battery, and new headlamps. The car would run for about 15 seconds and shut down immediately. Further inspection revealed that Crank Shaft sprocket had couple of teeth missing. The person who performed the work previously probably damaged the sprocket and wasn’t aware of the damage when installed. Turns out the ECM was unable to read the needed CS sprocket teeth causing the engine to shut down. Went to the local salvage yard. Replaced the CS sprocket ⚙️ and now I have I have a dependable back up car 😁 I use it to commute to work now since fuel prices are freakin’ out of this world! 😡
That's am odd problem that must have been hard to find.
@@TheOriginalMechanic it was! I was thinking maybe the crank sensor was bad. Then, BAM! Sprocket seem a bit toothless 😬
@@elgatogordo9523 Is that what they call a Kentucky sprocket 😀
I suggest when you replace your timing belt to use a larger diameter timing belt idler bearing.
Stock is a 13503-63011
Off the top of my head is
10mm bolt hole size
Width 29mm
Diameter 57mm
There are bearings available in Europe that are 60mm in diameter
3mm larger that will allow the belt tensioner to have some available travel to adjust the belt so it's not loose. Gates part number T42226
Manufacturing issues from Toyota for replacement belts and Mitsuboshi belts also.
OEM belt 13568-09041
Crank seal 90080-31022
Cam seal 90089-31023
Oil pump o-ring 15188-63010
Oil pump shaft seal 15165-70010
Replace all of those every time.
Only use Aisin water pumps
Mitsuboshi timing belt or OEM
Drive belts are
5pk1110 Alt/AC
3pk760 or 750 for Power Steering
Replace the power steering pump O-ring when apart
The feed elbow will leak or better yet get reseal kit for the pump. Easy to reseal. Main housing gasket only fits one way ( correctly ) or they leak.
This engine 3SFE or 5SFE are non-interfance engines. If belt breaks or is apart valves will NOT hit the pistons.
Thanks for providing all the helpful detail complete with part numbers.
@@TheOriginalMechanic 32+ years working for Toyota.
Now independent.
Had a bodysuit charge a friend for a new rear bumper cover and NEVER replaced the bumper.
I suggested the friend report to her insurance company this TRUTHFUL FACT and they got in her face.
So I emailed them.
That bodysuit was a customer of where I worked.
I was called into managers office and told 2 things.
1st was the manager at that body shop had called and said I reported them for insurance fraud. 2nd was internal departmental stuff and demoted me.
For doing what Lawful and Honest
June of 2019. Jan of 2021 I put in my notice.
Honesty 1st and ALWAYS.
@@richsmobileautorepair9203 man the world needs more people like you uncle rich truth first even if it hurts would love to work at your shop if you’re hiring 🤠
@@zeekfranco509 thanks for the comment. I'm trying to work on my foundation in life. The rear end collision and whiplash plus brain injury has cost me so much.
I'm working on preparing to create videos to not only show repairs but explain why I live the way I do and encourage people to be different than society.
Too many people focus on MONEY money money.
I focus on PEOPLE people people.
My way I will NEVER have to advertise to get work.
My customers advertise for me and I DONT have to.
Just do whats in their best interest.
They will gladly pay me and I get many tips from happy customers.
I do this to help people.
I mentored a young man I know. 18 years old.
He said he wanted to repair his trucks brakes himself but he lacked the abilities and the tools.
I told him.
You have everything you don't have yourself in me.
I will help you.
He did an awesome job plus he got the experience and the pride in doing the job himself.
His dad died 7 years ago.
I filled in for his dad.
Be a dad to those who don't have one.
Be a good person for anyone so they know what a good person looks like, acts like and lives like.
They will notice.
Rich
I begin the treacherous adventure tomorrow.
1 month later and i’m still working on it
1 year later, the engine exploded, and I sold it. I'm now doing this on a second car, and the timing was off when I installed it the first time. Just doing it again today. :( But I will account for the taut part.
@@mrkidofminecraftdamn man two cars I have a 01 Camry I’m working on the timing belt I need a impact for the harmonic balancer tho
I've done many of these but never installed lower cover to check for 45 degrees. I just line up timing marks on cam and crank, rotate crank 2 revolutions, verify timing marks didn't move, and make sure there's tension on front side of belt. I then put everything back together. They always run perfect when I'm done, so I don't know why you waste time lining up 45 degrees on lower cover and mark on harmonic balancer. I have 360K on my 97 Camry and it still runs like new. I suggest marking the notch on intake camshaft with white out to make it more visible.
I followed a manual when I did this. I too was scratching my head at this part.
EXACTLY!!! This is what I was looking for! 😁
Yeah I specialize in the Northstar engine but recently bought my 16 year old a camry. That 45 degree thing made no sense to me. He did not demonstrate the 1.75 turn thing because it doesn't line up. He must be referring to the cam pulley..... I don't know. Glad I turn wrenches for a living. If you spin it twice and you land on the zero your settings are perfect.
I love the video
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the spring on the tensioner pulley has only one short function- to put tension on the belt once the belt is in place and you then loosen the pulley nut to put tension on the belt while you hand-crank the engine clockwise 1 & 3/4 turns. After that, you re-tighten the tensioner pulley's nut only after you've made sure of both timing mark alignments and have equal belt tension everywhere. The spring is then done for the rest of it's life, right? This is opposed to believing the spring is constantly putting tension on the belt, which makes more sense to me and is seen with many other engine types.
That is a well put description of this process. Yes, I scratched my head when I read the procedure for the first time before doing it.
@@TheOriginalMechanic loosened the pulley nut but I got no tension on the belt.What can be the problem?
I tighten the tensioner pulley before I rotate crankshaft because the belt tends to jump teeth and mess up crankshaft and camshaft alignment if I don't. If I have to readjust after turning crank 720 degrees, then I loosen it again and repeat.
Nice video, Do you have to aligned everything dead center if your just replacing the idler pulley?
No, you wouldn't. But I would wonder about the sense of tearing the front of the engine down and not replacing the rest of the components.
A telescoping mirror and a flashlight gives a clear visual on the camshaft pulley timing mark.
Perfect video! Thanks for skipping right to the install!!
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping viewers might appreciate that .
Brandon Armstrong wwwmodelthaven,coming to my house
68 W learning disabiities kickin in, have watched several of the belt/pump replacement But why does a leaking water pump weep hole happen- why weep hole??? happen Cant I just plug gthe hole with felt plug? how is it desinged to fail?
Thank you just did mine
does the crankshaft pulley knob line up with the bottom bottom timing cover at 45 degrees and then you torque the idler bolt?
That's how I recall it. I understand your confusion. These instructions confused me too.
when you torque the tension idler pulley bolt ,do you have to hold the crankshaft bolt to prevent the timing belt from moving? or does it not move?
Torqueing that bolt will no make the timing belt move.
The crankshaft doesn't move when tightening the idler pulley bolt
Nicely done. Thanks Chief !!
How did you get c the sprocket off
Thanks for the video! I have noticed that the very front of the lower timing belt cover where it mounts to the water pump has a broken off mounting tab. I wonder if it broke during disassembly? I’m replacing TB/WP, pulleys, spring and all the seals/o-rings, gaskets on my 97 Celica with 5SFE engine and just broke off that tab. It seems the metal sleeve inside that mounting tab has rusted/welded itself onto the water pump and I can’t seem to be able to pull that cover off without breaking the tab. I really do not want to buy a new lower TB cover because of this. Do you have any pointers as to how to take it off without breaking it off completely? Thank you!!!
Maybe spray some PB blaster or WD40 in there and then work it (gently) back and forth. You can't use high heat around plastic, but maybe a blow dryer just to soften the plastic and make it less likely to crack further.
@The Original Mechanic: thank you sir! I pried it out gently. I have now successfully completed the job. For the time invested (2 days) I wonder if it almost worth paying someone $600-$800 to do the job. The satisfaction of job done though is priceless! In my case it is worth the effort since I won’t need to do it again for 10 years (I only put about 5,000 miles on the car per year)
Just a word of advise to do this job on the 2.2l 5SFE.... It would be wise to get a Japanese tensioner and idler pulleys such as Koyo or NKS that say Japan on them. They also make bearings in China as well, but those are failure prone. Also, get an Aisan water pump (with housing) and if you want to go first class, get a Gates Blue extended wear Racing timing belt. You should also consider getting both new drive belts for the alt/ac comp and PS pump and a new OEM thermostat as well as a gallon of Pentafrost HOAT (red) coolant and a gallon of distilled water. You can thank me later with a lb of bacon (crispy).
Good tips all. The more quality parts the better. The car in this video was totaled six months later so I'll never know how well it held up.
Followed the instructions my tdc on camshaft is 10ish degrees ahead on my harmonic balancer. What’s am I doing wrong?
@@ElChupa_CabraDid you figure it out?
Why the 1 and 7/8 cw turn and then tighten the tension pulley. What's magic about 45 deg BTC?
I don't know. I was following the steps in a Haynes manual as I recall. I found it puzzling too but I followed it anyway.
Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.
This is a non-interference engine.
Thank You!
The 4 is a NON interference. The V6 IS!!! Avoid the V6< Avoid all interference engines if possible.
Why do we need to do 1 and 3/4 quarter turns if everything is in line timing mark wise?
I know. I was just following directions in a Haynes manual.
Im doing all the steps but the belt sounds a bit loose. Any recommendations?
I would just double check everything. It has to exactly right. A redo may be necessary.
@TheOriginalMechanic ok thank you
Did you replace the cam and crank seals while you were at it?
Yes I did and made videos too
How did you tighten up the hormonic balancer when installing back on?
Should be in the video. I recall using a tool to hold it in place as I tightened the nut.
blast it with a 1/2 inch impact driver
How to set come shaft setting
thanks amigo good video
So if the cam and crank both line up to their tick marks, does the engine now have proper timing?
Nope but yeh
@@mikey-fi4cw that made no sense
Basically yes but then you have to adjust your distributor if need be.
@@potardo9851 my 98 timing is adjusted by the ecu
Hey, I own the same amazing engine and same shitty torque wrench as you! Thanks for your confirming video.
camshaft and crank shaft seal replacement while this is torn down??
Yeah I did those seals too. There are links to the videos at the end.
@@TheOriginalMechanic was those seals leaking at the time of the timing belt install?
@@LiilTyweezy No they weren't. Based on the age of the car and with it torn down, this seemed like a good idea.
❤❤❤❤
How did you turn the crankshaft to line up with the marking
I used a socket and half inch ratchet to turn the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise.
спасибо 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks ❤
How long of a process for a qualified mechanic?
So one reason I got into trouble with the new install was I didn't rotate by hand before solidifying the tensioner's position. Once the car started the timing belt did skip because of uneven distribution of the tension and tightening the tensioner at max up position. The car wouldn't restart and all my nice white-out marks were out of line. That's just FYI. So highly recommend a number of hand rotations with a breaker bar before tightening the tension in place.
My real question is why does my Cam pulley not look like yours? It's a 97 Camry. When lined up with the hole to dimple my camshaft indicator is more like 9 o'clock just passing the camshaft sensor. Yours is like at 1 o'clock? Are they that different?
I have no experience with a '97. I would assume this is one of those differences that occur from on model year to another.
God bless you.
Why are you taking off the valve cover to do this?
As I recall I took it off due to a leaking gasket.
What about the balance shaft pulley?
IDK. I guess I had enough other parts and issues to deal with on this one.
Thanks 👌👌👌👌
How did u set the timing on the bottom!!??? How about that step smart guy!
Did you torque crankshaft pulley bolt after installing timing belt? Also, did you use a pulley holder when tightening bolt or you just used an impact wrench? Thanks.
Yes, I torqued the bolt to specs. I used a holding means as shown in the video.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Thanks, my Chilton manual says 80 ft-lbs for crankshaft bolt. Hopefully that's right.
@@afara2000 80 ft-lbs is correct, per Haynes as well
At what point in the video is the part where you use the holding means to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt? I can't seem to find it. Thanks for a very informative video.
@@Instinctivestrength94 It's at the very beginning of a separate reassembly video: th-cam.com/video/u8lWdp_2xSQ/w-d-xo.html
I guess mine broke while starting it up then it sounded rough I cut the engine does anyone know it will damage it and is it worth replacing???
This is not a interference engine so the valves won't be damaged when the timing belt breaks.
Everyone else timing mark on harmonic balancer is obviously mines either don’t have one or got scrubbed off
what does the engine do if the timing is off a hair
i replaced mine but im am not as experienced in doing timing belts and i think mine may be off
This is an exacting business. I don't think it run at all if it is off a bit.@@Patriot326
The indent that lines up behind the hole on the crankshaft pulley.. as long as you can feel it through the hole with the allen wrench are you golden? It seems impossible to get perfectly centered since there's no way to look through the hole. I installed my belt 3 times now to test drive.. unsuccessfully. I'm going to count the teeth on my belt to double check that's not the problem child.
True, you can't see that little mark through the hole. I found that frustrating too, so when I used a dab of white paint instead. Fortunately, I had no problems .
@@TheOriginalMechanic I can't remember how but the camshaft pulley ended up advanced from TDC when the belt was off, you can't crank backwards so I turned a full revolution independently from the harmonic back to TDC, I'll definitely be painting aline above the notch when it's honed in. Great video
@@TheOriginalMechanic You're supposed to use an inspection mirror and a flashlight.
@@dbfcrell8300 good tip
@AlexWilliams-ou5si I assume you're talking about the hole on the camshaft pulley and the indentation on the camshaft. I know you're probably already done with your job but for future visitors: the best thing to do is mark the indentation on camshaft with white out and use a mirror to look through the hole to verify it's lined up with indentation,
Hello Sir, is this engine time interference?
This is a non-interference engine.
@@TheOriginalMechanic thank u
I changed my belt 40,000 miles ago. I think I'm still good for 30,000 miles do you agree?
Oh yeah, probably even longer.
@@TheOriginalMechanic I'm glad to hear that. Thanks!
why do you set it to 45 degrees BTDC ?
I went by a Haynes repair manual
If I turn the crankshaft bolt one revolution,then i am at TDC? Two revolutions and I am still at TDC? Three revolutions and I am still at TDC? Is this correct?As long as I do a 360 from the pulley notch to mark 0 I will always be at TDC?
@@albertop5320 Your questions are beyond what I'm able to confidently answer. Right or wrong, I was able to line up the cams and crank without paying attention to top dead center, only to the timing positions of those three components.
@@TheOriginalMechanic thank you for the answer
@@albertop5320 When the timing belt is installed, the camshaft rotates once for every 2 crankshaft revolutions, so when the timing marks on engine block and crankshaft timing gear are aligned, piston #1 is either at top dead center or at top of exhaust stroke. This is because the timing belt connects crankshaft and camshafts and the camshafts open and close the inttake and exhaust valves. The valves will be in different positions every consecutive crankshaft revolution. One revolution all valves will be closed as piston #1 is coming up to TDC.. Next revolution exhaust valves will be closing as piston #1 reaches the top of its travel, so not every revolution (360 degrees) of crankshaft puts piston #1 at TDC. If the timing belt is not installed, then piston #1 can be considered to be at TDC on every revolution of the crankshaft as long as timing marks on engine block and crankshaft timing gear are lined up. This is because there isn't a timing belt connecting the crankshaft and camshaft together. TDC isn't only determined by crankshaft positon, it's determined by the combination of crankshaft and camshaft positions. I know it's a long winded answer but I hope it helps.
Please i need someone contact that sells timing belt in lagos Toyota camry tiny light
How long did this job take
It was completed over several days. I would estimate 6-8 hours.
Will this work on a 1996?
Only if it has this same engine.
You put the big washer on backwards, but no big deal.
I run my car without the covers and without that washer and sheruns great. 👍
Still no problems?
I noticed that too LOL
how do u knw how far 17/8 turns is
ok its the mark on pully
Que pasa si se revienta la banda del tiempo será que doble las válvulas alguien me puede decir
The valves will not be bent in this engine if the timing belt breaks.
u cant c ur cam mark??
In some great cars you can put timing belt without touching anyhting you jsut go there thake out and put new one without dessamble any did or mes with anyhting,, made i severla time..
you just need to take cover out of course.
I have a few question, which I will explain why I'm asking afterward. I'm a little confused about a few things...
What is the reasoning behind turning the timing belt exactly 1-7/8th turms before tightening the tensioner pulley? In other words what does it matter when the tensioner gets tightened in this procedure? Is this simply to seat the belt and then confirm the timing marks are still aligned, but at 45º? And secondly, if the tensioner pulley is torqued down to 31ft. lbs., does that mean the spring is no longer fighting the belt tension as the tensioner pulley is then locked down? (I figured it would always be tensioned by the spring, not locked down in any way).
The reason I ask is my pristine 99 Camry with 108K had it's timing belt done at the technical college my wife works at last week. As a perk, we get free labor so this allows me to buy the best parts b/c we save all that money. It's truly a god-send. They have always done a super job as the teacher always checks everything. He told me he checked the timing marks before the student closed everything up, but I'm not sure he was there for some of the smaller stuff as he has a class to watch over. Anyway, now there is a noise of something loose only when the engine just warming up. It's even worse when there's a load on the engine, but only when it's cold. . Here's a video I made where you can hear it;
th-cam.com/video/VpIfTVyXVmU/w-d-xo.html
Anyway, the teacher is going to look at it this Monday. The enging really runs great, so I'm racking my head trying to figure out what this noise is.... maybe it was the foam cover gasket that's allowing the cover to be hit slightly by a pulley or the cover is not tighened down... idunno? Maybe that metal dust plate over the crank is on backward-bowed side in? Again, I supplied and pre-checked all the parts... all good Japan or USA parts. The Koyo bearings and the Aisin H20 pump- all perfect. The Gates Blue Racing belt looked 100% perfect in every way. There are no leaks, enging pulls like new on the highway. Maybe the tensioner wasn;t torqued down, which is why I was asking about it. Sorry for the long post
I was puzzled as well about the 1 7/8 rotation before torquing down the timing belt tensioner. This seems to be a way to even the tension on the belt before finalizing the torque. I've seen other makes that use a similar method. As for the noise, I took a listen but couldn't point you in one direction or the other. It is troubling though. The quality parts you had installed should eliminate a bad pulley or tensioner as a cause. You should have the technical college take another look...hey they are learning and sometimes redoing a repair is the best way to learn. .
@@TheOriginalMechanic Well thank for your response. The teacher at the college will look at it on Monday. I dbl checked my gas mileage too. It's down from 29mpg to 19mpg. Something ain't right. Maybe the timing is off by a tooth. I'll keep you posted.
@@dbfcrell8300 Did you get your car fixed, and did they find out what was wrong? Was the timing belt tight enough?
Question, if i change the timing belt do i have to set the timing again?
Erik Estrada yes
Definitely
بعد خدمة قرسيوني تستاتة التعطل في اتشغيل في الصباح
Very helpful..thnxs a lot..
You put that big washer in backwards. The cup is supposed to face out. With the cup facing in, the belt will get destroyed!
So it’s like an auto tensioner for like 5 seconds and then when you tighten the bolt, the spring is useless😂
well done
so confusing, start by tighing yet don't torque it yet
Yeah I know. I was scratching my head too, but that's the procedure.
I need smaller hands :0
Суретінен түсінетін адам түсініп алады.
cem
Jesus, fix the oil leaks and clean that bloody thing first! You’re putting a new belt back on dirty and oily components - amateurish at best, but mostly just sloppy.