Where was this video when I refinished my cheap guitars? What a masterclass in refinishing. Love how accessible you make it with easy to obtain supplies and practical tips. Excellent end result. This is probably going to motivate me to revisit my monstrosities.
Very cool! First I wasn't that impressed by the new finish, but the visibility of the fine cracks (17:40) made the difference. Looking forward to see the final result😎
I had always used Cardinal nitro in the past, and a few months ago, ran short mid project. I picked up a quart of the Watco brush on lacquer from Home Depot out of curiosity and time saving since I didn't have to wait for it to ship. I thin it down with a 7:3 or 7:4 lacquer/thinner ratio depending on current weather conditions. I shoot it with my regular hvlp and hte guns, and it lays out super smooth, and hardens like a rock. I've since shot it on a good half a dozen guitars with great success. Haven't tried checking it yet, but I'm sure it will check nicely judging by it's hardness and how it cracks on pieces of masking I've removed while it was fresh and soft, and then held onto for a while to give me an idea of how it will harden/age. I've also had no problems with adding the Colortone dyes and solid pigments from Stewmac. It's a pretty good deal, too... About $43 for a gallon of lacquer, and $23 for a gallon of thinner here in MA. So you end up with roughly 1.5 gallons of ready to spray lacquer for under $70. What method did you use to create the checking? I generally deep freeze, and then bring them right back to an average temperature room. It always checks in a direction perpendicular to the string path. Very curious how that one ended up checking in a parallel direction. Anyway, looking great so far, I'll definitely check back to see the finished product!
Greatly appreciated! Yea, the watco didn't even give me time to get it in the freezer. Literally 3 hours after flashing off, it threw those checks without any freezing. Just from moving outside to inside from 68 degrees to 64ish. Putting it in the freezer 2 days later was like a checking grenade. Not a bad thing! As far as the horizontal check pattern..... I've seen it in the past but I feel like the super soft poplar is the culprit. As it is both light and very soft.
Very cool and informative, you make it look easy! I may try this one day on an old modified 80s Charvel body I have if I dare... Glad I stumbled across your video, you have a new subscriber. Loving the backing music too!
You’ve probably heard 100 times, but wanted to say again how underrated your channel is imo. Your refinishing and relic work is more convincing than any others by FAR and I’ve learned so much. Doing my own Squier Mustang refin at the moment so following with interest. All the best from the UK 👍
Hey! That’s me being shouted out! Thanks! But seriously great video and lots of awesome information. I think I will forgo the heat gun though per your introduction. I plan on knocking down the poly with hand sanding and then priming the body before nitro, thoughts? Just a few questions for you regarding checking: what is an example of tectonic checking? Is it less linear and more chunky? How long after finishing your nitro do you put the body in the freezer? Thanks in advance for all the help, it’s been invaluable! My guitar project is going to take awhile but maybe I can post a link to photos in the comments when it’s done. 🤘
Absolutely! Vid was a whole different beast till we were talking poly prep! So to leave the poly I suggest wetsanding with 1500 and finishing over that. The "tectonic" checking is tough. Very wide. Because the poly has so many plastecizers, freezing only does so much. :( But I suggest giving it 2 days to harden up before freezing. Sometimes it can be done just hours later, but so much depends on temp and humidity. And yes... we need to see it when it's coming down the home stretch!
@@breilly66 thanks so much! I’m not even sure if I’m going to check it. I just like the way nitro looks and feels so it may be done with little to no relic.
Hey, nice work! Finish looks beautifully vintage. I’m doing the same with my old strat. But I’m curious, why the clear coat before colour? I want to do a Daphne blue type finish, with a similar result to yours. Should I clear coat before paint? And, what black substance are you adding to make the checking pop, charcoal? Any advice is helpful. Cheers!
The base clear means as the topcoat wears, it gives you a feathered edge and clear grain. If you shoot color onto the bare grain, replocating the fade becomes impossible. And almost! Crushed pencil graphite. :)
I need to ask: Is that a Polyurethane or a Polyester paint? I've been wanting to refinish my baja tele but removing the polyester finish seems daunting
Ok. First, the end result looks amazing, so mad props, there. Second, how long did this take you from start to finish (removing poly to finished nitro guitar)? Thanks for sharing, man!
Why don't you just use a paint stripper? It would also be easier to use a round over bit to create more consistent edges. They'll vary too much using a file.
There's always a few different ways to shape. :) As far as paint stripper, I try to stay away from chemicals of I can help it. Plus the extremely soft timber is HIGHLY absorbent. Like paper towel absorbent, and didn't want to have to over sand to get the contaminated wood out.
Hey J! Sanding it entirely is def an option but the amount of material top and bottom (poly) is so thick and dense, that for years I was sanding poly out and spending 6 hours with an orbital. Then just to find the grain density variation created peaks and valleys. Plus the dust is pretty terrible.
I’ve tried this and chemical strippers. I’m starting to think I’m just not any good at this part. I ALWAYS seem to gouge the underneath. I haven’t tried this particular technique though. I’m looking fwd to try it on my next project
I was really struggling with this process a few years ago on a project and was like "this doesn't work." Then this time I kinda stumbled onto the flat blade part and then I got a rhythm going. Hang in there Dean!
So I’ve sanded down my guitar and the poly clear coat at 90 degrees looks dull and the shine is gone, but when I look at it on low angle the guitar still looks reflective ( I’m looking in bright daylight too)… do I need to sand until there is no reflection at all?
Where was this video when I refinished my cheap guitars?
What a masterclass in refinishing. Love how accessible you make it with easy to obtain supplies and practical tips.
Excellent end result. This is probably going to motivate me to revisit my monstrosities.
And that's the comment I was hoping for! Thanks, R! Happy Day of the Dead, man!
Another good one B! I always hit Solo guitar in Canada for my nitro products. Always a pleasure.
Cheers Mark! As always, greatly appreciated! Looking them up as we speak! ✊️
Very cool! First I wasn't that impressed by the new finish, but the visibility of the fine cracks (17:40) made the difference. Looking forward to see the final result😎
Cheers Chris! Appreciated! And yea it's a bit vanilla without some dirt rubbed into it! The contrast is really what wakes these up!
I had always used Cardinal nitro in the past, and a few months ago, ran short mid project. I picked up a quart of the Watco brush on lacquer from Home Depot out of curiosity and time saving since I didn't have to wait for it to ship. I thin it down with a 7:3 or 7:4 lacquer/thinner ratio depending on current weather conditions. I shoot it with my regular hvlp and hte guns, and it lays out super smooth, and hardens like a rock. I've since shot it on a good half a dozen guitars with great success. Haven't tried checking it yet, but I'm sure it will check nicely judging by it's hardness and how it cracks on pieces of masking I've removed while it was fresh and soft, and then held onto for a while to give me an idea of how it will harden/age. I've also had no problems with adding the Colortone dyes and solid pigments from Stewmac.
It's a pretty good deal, too... About $43 for a gallon of lacquer, and $23 for a gallon of thinner here in MA. So you end up with roughly 1.5 gallons of ready to spray lacquer for under $70.
What method did you use to create the checking? I generally deep freeze, and then bring them right back to an average temperature room. It always checks in a direction perpendicular to the string path. Very curious how that one ended up checking in a parallel direction.
Anyway, looking great so far, I'll definitely check back to see the finished product!
Greatly appreciated!
Yea, the watco didn't even give me time to get it in the freezer. Literally 3 hours after flashing off, it threw those checks without any freezing. Just from moving outside to inside from 68 degrees to 64ish. Putting it in the freezer 2 days later was like a checking grenade. Not a bad thing!
As far as the horizontal check pattern..... I've seen it in the past but I feel like the super soft poplar is the culprit. As it is both light and very soft.
Your work never ceases to amaze me man and the soundtrack is always great as well!
Too kind J! 🙏 About the music, appreciated especially. :)
Man that finish looks great!
Thanks G!
Very cool and informative, you make it look easy! I may try this one day on an old modified 80s Charvel body I have if I dare...
Glad I stumbled across your video, you have a new subscriber. Loving the backing music too!
You’ve probably heard 100 times, but wanted to say again how underrated your channel is imo. Your refinishing and relic work is more convincing than any others by FAR and I’ve learned so much. Doing my own Squier Mustang refin at the moment so following with interest. All the best from the UK 👍
Bobby, you just made my morning. Really glad I could help a bit. :)
You gotta let us know how it comes out, and from Southern California, welcome!
This video is filled with pearls of wisdom... thank you! If I ever tackle this project on a Squier CV, I'll make sure to reference this video!
Heck yea! Cheers BD!
Wow that’s stunning!! Great work !
Wife’s just bought me one in red for Christmas! Great Channel, I’m sure you’ll take off :)
:) 🙏
thank you
Hey! That’s me being shouted out! Thanks! But seriously great video and lots of awesome information. I think I will forgo the heat gun though per your introduction. I plan on knocking down the poly with hand sanding and then priming the body before nitro, thoughts? Just a few questions for you regarding checking: what is an example of tectonic checking? Is it less linear and more chunky? How long after finishing your nitro do you put the body in the freezer? Thanks in advance for all the help, it’s been invaluable! My guitar project is going to take awhile but maybe I can post a link to photos in the comments when it’s done. 🤘
Absolutely! Vid was a whole different beast till we were talking poly prep!
So to leave the poly I suggest wetsanding with 1500 and finishing over that. The "tectonic" checking is tough. Very wide. Because the poly has so many plastecizers, freezing only does so much. :(
But I suggest giving it 2 days to harden up before freezing. Sometimes it can be done just hours later, but so much depends on temp and humidity.
And yes... we need to see it when it's coming down the home stretch!
@@breilly66 thanks so much! I’m not even sure if I’m going to check it. I just like the way nitro looks and feels so it may be done with little to no relic.
Oh, and what do you think about priming? Yes, add that over the wet sanded poly or no just go nitro over sanded poly?
What color is the poly and what color are you shooting?
@@breilly66 Sonic blue over Sonic blue
So helpful & cool, man! Thanks
You're an artist.
🙏
nice job. But the soundtrack.... damn!! really really good. Love it
Too kind! 😌🙏
San Diego 🎉
I loved it! How long curing before start the checkings process? Did you use the freezer or only the heating gun? Thanks!
Hey, nice work! Finish looks beautifully vintage.
I’m doing the same with my old strat. But I’m curious, why the clear coat before colour? I want to do a Daphne blue type finish, with a similar result to yours. Should I clear coat before paint? And, what black substance are you adding to make the checking pop, charcoal?
Any advice is helpful.
Cheers!
The base clear means as the topcoat wears, it gives you a feathered edge and clear grain. If you shoot color onto the bare grain, replocating the fade becomes impossible.
And almost! Crushed pencil graphite. :)
@@breilly66 thanks, man! Much appreciated.
I need to ask: Is that a Polyurethane or a Polyester paint? I've been wanting to refinish my baja tele but removing the polyester finish seems daunting
This one's polyurethane.
nice video! 🙂🙃
Thank ya Sir!
Would this heat removal work well on an acoustic guitar with a Polyurethane finish?
Regrettably an acoustic and its type of construction could not withstand the necessary heat. The guitar wouldn't survive. :(
Ok. First, the end result looks amazing, so mad props, there. Second, how long did this take you from start to finish (removing poly to finished nitro guitar)? Thanks for sharing, man!
Greatly appreciated! Took about 45 mins maybe? Was actually surprised as typically it used to be a much more intensive process!
👍👍👍
hey! is that a car polish you used after 2k wet sanding? could you please tell me which car polish would work like that on nitro?
Yup! McGuires polish!
Why don't you just use a paint stripper? It would also be easier to use a round over bit to create more consistent edges. They'll vary too much using a file.
I was going to ask the same thing. Also I wondered why not to sand the whole thing if you've got the sander?
There's always a few different ways to shape. :)
As far as paint stripper, I try to stay away from chemicals of I can help it.
Plus the extremely soft timber is HIGHLY absorbent. Like paper towel absorbent, and didn't want to have to over sand to get the contaminated wood out.
Hey J!
Sanding it entirely is def an option but the amount of material top and bottom (poly) is so thick and dense, that for years I was sanding poly out and spending 6 hours with an orbital.
Then just to find the grain density variation created peaks and valleys. Plus the dust is pretty terrible.
I’ve tried this and chemical strippers. I’m starting to think I’m just not any good at this part. I ALWAYS seem to gouge the underneath. I haven’t tried this particular technique though. I’m looking fwd to try it on my next project
I was really struggling with this process a few years ago on a project and was like "this doesn't work."
Then this time I kinda stumbled onto the flat blade part and then I got a rhythm going. Hang in there Dean!
@@breilly66
Heat gun and suction cup/ cups come in different sizes. Fast easy and no damage to the wood.
So I’ve sanded down my guitar and the poly clear coat at 90 degrees looks dull and the shine is gone, but when I look at it on low angle the guitar still looks reflective ( I’m looking in bright daylight too)… do I need to sand until there is no reflection at all?
No, you're good! The reflectivity across the surface is uniform and level. That's why it's mirroring at that low flat angle. :)