ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- Join us in the workshop as we fit the engine back into the Classic Mini Cooper S and get her running again.
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Can we all just take a moment to give Billy the Camera man a clap not even a jolt when that backfire went off and he had no idea it was coming. Consummate professional here at HRE
If his reactions are anything like mine he won't jump until bedtime 😅
Nerves of steel. Well done Billy. Yet again another well executed video. Top notch work lads. Looking forward to the next episode. Oh by the way Logan is hooked on all the episodes now... Keeps asking when is Paul back on the telly 😁
I was a Mini fanatic through most of my car "mechanicing" years which came to an end with arthritis. I used to buy and sell lots of Mini bits and Cooper S parts were very sought after. In the mid 80s a local ex-BMC garage closed down with everything going for auction. I knew there would be some Cooper S parts among the regular stuff so shot up there pronto. The workshops and stores which at one time had been buzzing with activity were deserted and I asked one of the lads if any Cooper S stock was going through the auction. He pointed to a large crate saying, "you've been beaten to it, thats off to Japan". In fact a lot of our Cooper S parts got bought up by Japanese enthusiasts.
I had Mini Looooong time ago, fitted with Morris Minor 1300 cc engine and it was a BEAST. Some young dudes with white BMW 316 tried challenge me in my Sunday ride to see my nan and take a race. Shifted to 2 gear, give pedal and didn't see them in mirrors.
That the way to show them Germans 🤣
Owned a 1966 Cooper 'S' and a 1968 MK II Cooper 'S', which I had for 10 years before the rust finally took over. I completely rebuilt the engine (bored + 0.020" to 1293cc), gearbox and differential on the second 'S'. Great memories of a wonderful car.
Thanks for sharing! my friend that a lovely memory to have.
It just goes to prove that genuine knowledge, coupled with slow and clear explanation is worth it's weight in gold. Your enthusiasm and style reminds me of Swifty talking about setting up and driving a race mini at Goodwood. Nice job my friend.
thanks Chris your very kind
Hello 'HRE IRE', your vlog takes me back to the late '60s early '70s, I had a 1959 Austin Seven which I put a a 1275cc Cooper 'S' engine 13 stud head, 5 lobe oil pump, cross drilled Nitrided crank, a full set of 'Nimomic' valves, twin 1 1/2" SU's with a heated inlet manifold, front disc brakes, plus much more and I think a 4.3 diff which gave a good top speed for trips from my Birmingham area to London, Scotland and other places all over main land UK. Regards, RichardA.
Hi Richard, thanks for sharing that with up I love hearing storys of cars and engines people built through the years
I started life in the motor trade in a BMC main dealer in Cardiff in ‘69 and we were always pulling these engines out of Minis. In those days, all of the gearboxes had those horrid rubber couplings except the automatics and probably the Cooper Ss. I like your lifting bracket - getting the engine to go in straight would have been a bonus! The bit that you missed, however, was the awkwardness of getting the bell housing mounting to line up with the holes in the subframe. You often have to shake the engine to line up the holes with a Phillips screwdriver or similar but then getting the bolts through the holes was a nightmare. If you get a bit of welding wire and wrap it round the shank of the bolt you can feed it up the narrow gap and push it through the holes with the aid of a long flat ended screwdriver and start the nut on the outside. You can then give the wire a yank so that it unwinds itself, ready to put the second bolt in place. There you have it, every little helps. By the way, we used a 649 cam, (AEG648. I think) BG needles and red springs. About 100bhp with the LCB exhaust.
Hi Martin thanks for your comment some great info there glad your enjoying the content.
Can't believe it's taken all this time for you to sort this out. We were doing this on all transverse bmc cars in the 1960s
Excellent video Paul. What a difference having the correct point of ballance makes when fitting or removing an engine. Nice one.
Thanks Dave, ya you cant beat having the right lifting points, wonder who taught me that 🤔🤔
Back in the days Gold Seal Engines came with two lifting brackets under the rocker cover studs. We used one of these brackets placed under the center forward head bolt to put the engine in, basicly achieving what you do with your special Bracket.
I still have mine.
Thats cool Friend thanks for sharing 👍👍
I knew it was coming, I still jumped though!
haha it was a bit of a pop all right lol
Love the nearly unedited first start up procedure. A familiar struggle!
Thanks Friend try to keep it as real as we can on here 👍👍
Brought back memories from 20Yrs ago. 296 on the street was insane!
Haha those old 296's where fairly lare all right lol
Paul that engine sounds sweet I bet there was a few viewer willing it on to start and it did make my dog sit up when she backfired thanks Paul another interesting episode stay safe and enjoy 👍👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Thanks Paul glad you enjoy
Yeh; revs quickly !
Sounds like a good idea leaving the joints on, didn't have that problem early Ss had different ones.
A couple of tips that you may find useful. Trying to start from inside the car is not a good idea, we always used the starter solenoid with the rubber covered button that you could press by hand to make contact so avoiding using the key, we blocked one carb bellmouth with the other hand to choke the engine. A quick tip? bodge? to temporally enrich the needle is to raise it into the dashpot. Get yourself a set of ratchet allen keys, they save so much time and effort.
Great advice Tony, thanks so much for taking the time to pass them on. 👍
Another excellent video Paul. thank you. Love that you share everything and not just the end result. Keep up the good work.
Glad you enjoyed it
Remember mate there's alot of cooper S experts on TH-cam that don't actually own a cooper S.... nor do they understand reasonings before they churp up.
Afraid so Alex, very frustrating but what can you do
I'd be interested in the pre-order for engine lifting hooks too. Appreciate the videos.
Thats Awesome Buddy, I will keep everyone posted when the pre order drops
Sounds fit and healthy
👍 thanks Paul
Engine sounds like a beast
Thanks buddy it should go well
Fantastic work as usual !! Admiring your craftsmanship in that lift bracket put me down for one!!
Will do Darragh
Great videos. Thank you.
Very good ofyou to give out so much info.
Thanks and you are most welcome 👍
I used to set up my mini cooper at 12 degrees in advance ran great on high octane fuel :) but only had a single inch and 3/4 Jag carb.
Good man Ray, those Jag carbs where big all right
Wow, love this, really takes me back over 40 years. Friends and I were very much into our mini's, some of them sprinted them. One had a genuine Cooper S and whilst it was bog standard tune, it was a scalded cat back then. I thought your car sounds quite smooth, maybe 731 cam (if that still exists). From memory, 649 cam was what we went for, but engine sounded lumpier. Add to that a 40 weber and frontal noise was fantastic. Great Channel, i'll be following. Your lifting bracket is a great idea. Maybe you should patent that...
Thanks for sharing that William, its around a 300 duration cam but sounds a bit tamer on the video. thanks for following 👍👍
You sound like me! -40 years ago I had a stable of minis in various states of tune. IIRC the 648 cam was 'full race', 731 was 'half race' and 643 was '3/4 race'. I recently bought a used copy of The Works Minis to relive some of my younger years. Hoping to find a decent round-nose to play with in my retirement.
Great video again! Definitely would like a engine hoist bracket, my dear departed neighbour always used just the one centre stud to take my engine out, boy, did that scare me!
haha bit scary all right Rob the stud is rated for 3000lb but braver than me lol
Lovely sound on start up..... by the way, put me on the list for the engine lift bracket...👍👍👍👍
Will do buddy, ya she sounds awsome :)
Another great video Paul, interesting to know the figures once it’s been on the rolling road, 👍🚗💨
Will keep you posted Andrew
I like the old school look of those radiator tubes. Are they regular tubes wrapped in something or a special product?
Those tubes are the Swiftune Kit as far as I remember. I do agree they look very neat
Hi Paul - great videos as always keep them coming!
Takes me back to the 70s and various minis I had, '61, '73 and '78 models running 850, 870 997, 998, 1100 and 1275 (latter from a 1300GT and modded with 28/36 Weber, big valve head, Janspeed, Lumenition, etc.) Could only dream of ATP Rear disc kits and coilovers!
I always used to split top ball joints before removing/replacing engines otherwise it's a proper faff.
Incidentally last year for genuine Cooper S production was 1970 on 'J' registration plates here in UK.
Hi Phillip thanks for sharing very cool. I read all about the ATP disk kits a while ago those where the day
Yes please . I would very much like to buy one👍🏻
Thanks Peter will keep you posted
coupke of bits I notices;
No boots on the driveshafts for the joint with Hardy Spicer.
No half moon rubber bung in the remote to keep the crap out of the linkage..
Do you use the oval headed hardy spicer bolts which only need access at the nut side for tightening?
I always used twon batteries in parallel to give the best cranking voltage during inital engine setup.
The boots are 21A963 and were used on both the rubber cross joint and hardy spicer couplings to keep the grease on the splines between the driveshaft and the coupling. Held in place with the band straps to minimise rotational mass imbalance. The remote gearchange rubber bung is 22A285
Thanks for that Colin, yes we use two Batteries there is an Anderson plug in the boot of all the racers I build. Customer dosen't run the boots or half moon seal by choice. but good spot 👍👍
Always interesting. Good tips. Well done mate 👍
Thanks Chuck glad you enjoyed
We did the same with rubber donuts years ago. Same principal really
Trying to build up the suspense at the beginning will not work because we all know the engine will fire and run fine by the end of the video.She sounds a beast. I am sorry that my days for taking out engines are well over otherwise I would join the many others who have said" Put me down for one". Its still a fine piece of equipment.
Thanks Kevin and I appreciate you on going suport. ya she is running like a little top
Hoping you will cover the rolling road run, and test at the track.
Track most defiantly Gavin testing Is fast approaching :)
Another great video
Billy seems fearless 😄
I would like to sign up for a lifting bracket as well
Looks like you need quite some lengths of steel.....
Thats awesome M.J. I will keep you posted as soon as the pre order is up.
Excellent video.
Hi Paul , I’m playing catch-up with your videos so apologies for the late query. I’ve noticed that these historic FIA / appendix K racers all run without air filters. I understood that top quality filters such as K&N could be used without a drop in flow/ power . Is it a case of having to run period type filters if at all to meet regs or is it that you can’t get the correct stub stack / ram pipe under a decent filter ?
Hi Ryan, its is a case of both really, these cars are supposed to where possible look as period as possible. While some events would allow the use of filters as you say it would be really hard to get a decent filter into place. that isn't restrictive and looks period
Had a strong addiction to mini’s since birth as my old man had to sell his in order to get a car the prom would fit in 🤦🏻♂️🤣. Had a few myself and I can lay testament to the fact that tightening hardy bolts in car is a complete ball ache.
Thants for sure having done it as many times as I have now I am much happer doing it this way its a little fiddly but a big time saver
Brilliant videos and amazing tips. I would be interested in an engine lift-hoist bracket.
Thanks Demetris will keep you posted for the Pre order
Timing the ignition (static), 7&8 valves on the rock with piston one at TDC. Turn dizzy so that the points are just opening lock it up. Always the starting point no matter what cam you are using. Done hundreds of them.
Thanks for that mate 👍
/
Hi,
Great set of videos - thank you. How do your engines compare to say the Miglia's and N Swift's engines? Kind regards,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathan, I cant say for certain as we haven't actually ever had a car go head to head. But I imagine we are all around similar power and torque
with the energy crisis in the world at the moment,i think the mini copper s,should be brought back into full production again,well its just that i love the mini .
lovely vehicle!
Thanks Buddy 👍
Another fantastic video once again I would be interested in one of these engine hooks absolutely anything to make your job easier the better loving the content of these videos absolutely brilliant 👏
Thanks Scott Will keep you posted
I bought a 1960 mini in 1973 it had a 1275 s engine fitted ..the guy that sold it pointed to the cylinder head bolt next to the thermostat and said that should have the number 300 stamped on it if its a genuine s .Have you ever come across that in your time around those engines ?.
Cant say I have to be honest Jim the number I always see on S cylinder heads is 12G1805 🤔
@@HREIRL Stamped on the head of the bolt Paul so fine hardly visible ...probably all those original bolts are lost in time ..all the best jim.
Similar engine origin as my “Cooper S” unit ... mine is from a Morris 1300 GT.
I’d be interested in the engine hoist bracket as well Paul.
Thanks
Thanks Ian will keep you posted on the pre orders
stick me down for one plz fella,glad you said that before i wrote all the measurements down
Hahaha well Just try an help all you mini fans out :)
Beautiful car and and what a cracking engine. For my own learning it'd be great if you could go into more detail on carburettor function, timing, cams etc. Just a little more info for the noobs like me! I know there are lots of videos on the theory but it'd be interesting to hear how you spec out an engine for a specific job.
Hi Toby great feedback I will do a video on this in the very near future. 👍👍
Could you put me down for a lifting hook? I just spent and afternoon trying to coax an engine out of my MK1. So anything that can make this job easier would be greatly appreciated.
Thats no problem Bernard ill keep you posted on the pre order for the hook
Yes please, I need an engine bracket 👍
Will keep you posted Keith
Head phones on ,full volume waiting for the start! Nearly stopped my heart ! 😮Well done Billy. 👏Where do I sign up for the engine lifting eye? Love that sound of your race engine.
haha sorry about that Guy, Billy is a legend. Will have the pre order up very shortly just working out some costs watch this space :)
I've noticed that all the cars you show have those transparent extension caps in the master cylinders... do you recommend the classic metal tins over the plastic ones? Another interesting video, thanks.
Hi Robin. I personaly think the Metal ones just look right in a mini. Im not sure there is an advantage over the plastic one but yes I always run the extensions Gives you a slightly higher peddle :)
"Today is tomorrow" :). Is the Hardy Spicer joint a standard feature on Cooper S, or just for race applications ? I have only even seen the rubber couplings or a proper CV joint in these cars....? Also, didn't MK3 Cooper S 1275 production go until 1971 ?
Hi Stan, yes some CooperS and Automatics had the Hardy Spicer's as seen here others had the rubber type coupler. You are correct S production did Continue until 71 but S engine block production stoped in the foundry in early 69 as there was a surplus of engines as S sales declined
@@HREIRL Is it correct that the Austin/Morris 1300GT, as well as the Riley Kestrel 1300 and the 2-Door MG1300 also got the real Cooper S 1275 twin carb engines (with the extra studs in the head and the compression ratio set for 5-star petrol) ? I had a last of the line 1973 Wolseley 1300 and it had a twin carb 1275 as well, but not the Cooper S head. If I remember rightly, my version was rated at 65 bhp, while the 1300GT etc was at 70 or 75 bhp ?
Really enjoyed this video very very helpful and awesome to finally watching this engine go back into the car and start up. Top job Paul once again. Thank you for showing and explaining about the engine hook. I’d like to pre-order one from yourself if that’s ok? Let me know. Thanks again and keep up the great work. 👍🏻
No problem Joanan. thanks for tuning in and keep an eye out in the near future for the engine hook pre order dropping
Nice job.
Thank Milan 👍👍
Put me down for one Paul. Great video as usual mate :)
Thanks buddy 👍👍
Hi bro great videos. I was wondering if you take the distributor out to clean it and you've moved the car but want to put the distributor back in how to set it up that the timing a correct.
reply in the last post you made 👍👍
Great video!!! I am also interested in the engine lifter, thanks.
Thanks Luis will keep you posted
What make and model are the tyres on this mini please?
you have to faze the UJ's on either end of the shaft as they are not CV joints
Thanks K
Great video Paul she sounds excellent, what weight would that car be and approx BHP with the new cam.
car is in at around 600KG's a good FIA motor is making around 110-120hp with around the same torque
Would love an engine lift bracket if not too much trouble to ship to USA...
Not a problem Lone Star will keep you posted on pre order drop 👍👍
Yep put me down for one 👍
Thanks Ian appreciate that
Hi Paul, great video, the engine sounds nice, is the cam an str930?, a miglia spec one, keep up the good work :-)
Hi Anthony, its running a Swiftune FIA cam but quite similar to the 930 all right
I'm from Austria and would buy one too 👍
woher? lg
@@luismeixner2125 hi Oberösterreich und selber ?
That awsome will keep you posted when the pre order drops
@@Wollediver graz!
Hi, great video. I’m interested in a lifting bracket
Thanks Kevin we will add you to the mailing list 👍
How do you tell the difference between a true 1275S motor and an A motor ??
There is a few different things you need to look out for but generally, S blocks will have a bore size greater than 70mm, tappet chest covers and only one frost plug under the engine stability bar
Engine sounds nice Paul 👍
I’d be interested in a lifting hoop put me on the list.
Will keep you posted buddy 👍👍
Great vid. I’d be interested in an engine lift bar.
Awesome there coming along fingers crossed there not to far out now
We did this to driveshafts in the past very many years.
Good job Peter👍
Jeeze, I knew two separate guys who raced S engines in the seventies and early eighties their yards were full of dead engines that had been bored out too far and that had cut a track between cylinders ! And the guy across the road who just wanted his car to run at maximum capability, kept three engines, one ready to go in, one being worked on and one running ! so why there are ANY S engines left I don’t know. Now those mad buggers that liked the Hillman Imp are another story
a much more scary car at speed !
it was amazing at one time they where 10 a penny now there gold dust and impossible to find but thats the way of life I suppose
"It's in said the bishop to the actress"
That engine sounded nice when it finally was happy with the mixture. I love those carbs in a Mini....I had twin SUs on a 1275 MG Metro unit I'm playing with but as the car the engine is in is a Berkeley T60 the bonnet is too low, so I decided to fit a dellOrto on a long Mangoletsi manifold..It looks great....will be finished with a vac formed Plexiglass close fitting bubble to show the polished alloy rocker-box, carb and foam filter..
I' s have ordered a lifting bracket but as I'm in France it'd cost something ridiculous with the added Brexit duty. I don't order anything from UK anymore.
You should be OK on duty - he is in Ireland , not the UK
@@andrewbell3476 If he's in Eire, that's true...
I was once told an Austin 1300GT engine was similar to Cooper s spec.. Anyone know if there's any truth in this?
They sure are as are the early 1275GT engines
@@HREIRL thanks for confirming that! I had ' 73 harvest gold mini with the 1300gt engine back in the 80s. Fun little car😁👍
Hi Paul can you keep me one of your engine hoist brackets, thanks.
Will do keith I will leave it attached to your S motor when I lift it down :)
Nice. But the lifting bracket is far too big, a couple of 3mm thick brackets on the front studs with a top hole for a shackle pin (2) is all that's needed, and give just the right amount of tilt for lifting the engine in/out.
6:25 wished you would have shown the linkage inside the remote as you offered the remote up.
I will get you some close ups shortly :)
@@HREIRL That would be brill, thanks Paul
would any mini fans know what happened to my old works clubman ORX234L ? it got stollen many years ago but im sure its still about ?
I will shout this out in the near future on the channel
@@HREIRL thank you i understand it was an abingdon car
649 race cam in the 60s.Rog.
I take off the hardy and slide them on the shaft without troubling that suspension.
Personally I've used twin 11/4 su found nothing but bother, had better performance from single 1 3/4 su on a heated inlet manifold with 270 cam on a 998cc never found a 1275cc that could out run it, had a bit of headwork as well with lcb exhaust manifold sound more like a motorbike that mini
Good man John must have been one very well build 998 👍👍👍
Interesting vid mate, couple of wing covers plse!
thanks Steve
Classic mini breakdown will take one, Paul! Just let me know via fb messenger. Cheers!
Sure no problem Pete
Offtopic. It´s just me who think that the blanket on the roof quite fits to BRG of the car?
haha good spot It is very nice combo actully never taught of it 👍
Add me to the pre-order list for the engine hook.
I don't think they are heavy duty enough for your needs.
@@classicminidetails8887 Needs to be able to get used at least 20-25 times a year for the same engine over and over.
@@classicminidiy 😂
Hhaha I got a great giggle out of this, I will build you an extra heavy duty one Cole
What is the Color code for this mini
Put me on the list too please 😀
British Racing Green i think. I always thought it was a strange color because in the olden days green was considered very bad luck for a car and was not often seen apart from on "Leyland " cars which is probably why they always broke down of fell to pieces.
I thought it felt more like an almond green , but it always seems like a different shade .
BRG is a lot darker .
This is called Irish Green it is a Porsche colour from the 60-70's
@@HREIRL Does it being a Porsche colour make it go faster, just like the go faster stripes we often see on the boy racer cars.
Love the channel but could you please get rid of the background music as it's an unwelcome distraction from your excellent presentation. Thank you.
Put my name down for the engine lift bracket please!
Deadly thanks Paul
Changed them rubbers in situ, really not my favourite job! I have small hands !
not a fun job at all but well done for getting her done 👍👍
Memory lane I hated those one flat at a time UJ bolts Only thing worse was the Effing Brass bushings on the drive shafts Rather than actual Differential Ball Bearings.
British engineering at it's Best.
Forgot ?? the wee rubber boot on that sliding axle
Save the S engines for posterity !??? Geeeesus... Only in Museum England.. mercifully..
Erm No power tools or even rachets/sockets in the UK ?? Hmm a ~100 hp (maybe) Race engine
While the prepubescent down the street has ~137 hp in his stock clapped out Civic and actual brakes.
😎👍🇺🇲
1st again lol
and formost