I decided to start cleaning the body inside and get it ready for epoxy primer and paint eventually when I found this.... I thought the welding was over!
Hi Elin, Where the original body panels were braze welded, my suggestion would to be gas weld using 1/16 nickel bronze rod, Nickel bronze is great for structural panels like this and it was widely used in the construction of space frame chassis. It would save a lot of your issues where you have to mig weld along those previously gas welded seams. It is not s cheap rod, but it flows beautifully. Keep up the great work; I enjoy your posts immensely.
What doesn't kill me makes me stronger :) I just try to turn every step back into 2 steps forward and keep going. It is fun actually. If I wasn't enjoying that I wouldn't be doing it.
Wow! i always thought worms were good things. Well you sure did open a can of nasty worms. As always a nice recovery from an unwelcome surprise. And don't forget Elin.... we right behind you as we watch YOU fix the nasties. In conclusion from an armchair general thanks for taking the to videos and posting for our entertainment!!
Elin, love your patience! Those brackets you removed from the wheel well interior are for the trunk interior support structure, the longitudinal trunk floor support structure. Make sure to position the brackets and the support structure temporarily to pick up the attach points of the trunk floor panels, the ones made of hard board. The removable panels are supported and then attached by the longitudinal support structure with screws and quick release catch pins that are captured in place by plates with spring ears. The panel on the right side is easily removable by pulling it up to release the quick release catch pins thus facilitating easy access to the jack equipment and the spare tire. I would preposition all of these parts in their respective positions to ensure you have all of the reference points and support structure rigged accurately thus ensuring the exact location of the panels and their attach points. This will ensure the panels , the support beam and the fasteners locate exactly!!!PS check that your gas tank can be installed/removed if you decide to weld in the support bracket rather than bolt it in place!!
Thank you for the detailed explanation, Maureen. I already welded the brackets back and I am pretty sure they are at the exact same location. I am not sure I have all these panels, but I will worry about that when I get to it. For now I want to focus on finishing the body and suspension later.
I had to learn a lot about metal corrosion for my job (nuclear power) and I have fundamental knowledge of how corrosion starts and progresses. I don't understand, however, how it could start there between those panels unless there was a fundamental design flaw that allowed the elements between the metal pieces. A "class problem" as we would say in the Navy...something similar to all of the same boats (or cars in this case) but it's fascinating to me how this stuff happens. Not fun to fix, mind you, but still fascinating! Good job, Elin.
That happens when there are overlapped layers of metal. No matter how well they are seam sealed even if water can't get in there will always going to be a condense. That is why I prefer to do butt weld. I was watching a video of a guy overlapping about 6-7 inches of metal on the floor of a VW bug. He believed he was making it stronger.... When I was repairing this I was seriously considering leaving it open inside, but I knew there were going to be many people to disapprove so I closed it.
Elin, what is the name of that tool you used on the wheel arch? I am encountering the dreaded tin worm and want to make sure I don’t miss any hidden rust spots like you found with it.
Oh my! Who would have thought that. I suppose that is a known problem for this car, but certainly not obvious to the innocent bystander. I'm sure you fix it up fine, but it really is a mess. Thanks for letting us watch.
Yes, it is a known problem for GT6 and I was really surprised my shock mounts were still intact. However, I was only looking inside the wheel well and never thought of checking inside the body tub. Anyway, I learned the hard way I have to check everywhere.
Ugh, I just reviewed my own photos of that part of The Beast and have the same problem... How do you know you went far enough fore and aft? Looks like you could have gone further back on the driver's side, but it's difficult to tell.
I went as close as possible to the spot welds for the external plate. It turns out there are two vertical rows of spot welds at the back so on the driver side I first went behind the first row, but then went back to the front of it. There is about one and a half inches between the rows and that area remained unrepaired, but I just can't get there without taking apart the whole car and I thought it wasn't worth doing that just to clean and paint. I am sure that will be fine. I am planning to use waxoil or similar product inside all enclosed areas and that might be one of them. I will just drill a hole on the inside and spray in it.
Never say "the welding is over" don´t even think it. ;-) I keep my fingers crossed that was it all now. Keep your ears stiff my friend (as we say here in Germany ....) ;-) cheers
Yes, my home boss is very understanding and forgiving when it comes to my cars. Anna was Keith's and Mary's daughter, who they lost 8 years ago. When Keith donated the car to me the name Anna was still on the rear glass written by herself many years ago and I decided to make sure it stays there forever, at least in my videos.
Wanting you use a bottles with a pump in the air pump bottles rust proof and then spray that on where the gaps or holes you can't get to the rust so you all inside where you can't get to the rust with a brush so it's just soap the whole lot underneath between all the gaps
Even though I am not a fan of the red color I already have a red car and I think one is enough. I am also not a purist so it is not really important to go back to the original color. I am planning to keep it and drive it so I'd rather have the car in a color that I like than a color that matches the paperwork, but I don't like. It might be red, but a little darker than the original one. I am considering carmine red, but that is not my only choice.
Hi Elin, Where the original body panels were braze welded, my suggestion would to be gas weld using 1/16 nickel bronze rod, Nickel bronze is great for structural panels like this and it was widely used in the construction of space frame chassis. It would save a lot of your issues where you have to mig weld along those previously gas welded seams. It is not s cheap rod, but it flows beautifully. Keep up the great work; I enjoy your posts immensely.
How do you keep from getting discouraged, the rust seem to be never ending. You have a great attitude and I'm learning so much. Thanks
What doesn't kill me makes me stronger :) I just try to turn every step back into 2 steps forward and keep going. It is fun actually. If I wasn't enjoying that I wouldn't be doing it.
Wow! i always thought worms were good things. Well you sure did open a can of nasty worms. As always a nice recovery from an unwelcome surprise. And don't forget Elin.... we right behind you as we watch YOU fix the nasties. In conclusion from an armchair general thanks for taking the to videos and posting for our entertainment!!
It was easier than what I expected :)
Amazing amount of rust in behind there. Bet you are glad you cut that all out. The repair is looking very good so far.
Yeah, that only proves my theory for overlapped metal. If I can avoid overlapping metal I will always do.
Elin, love your patience! Those brackets you removed from the wheel well interior are for the trunk interior support structure, the longitudinal trunk floor support structure. Make sure to position the brackets and the support structure temporarily to pick up the attach points of the trunk floor panels, the ones made of hard board. The removable panels are supported and then attached by the longitudinal support structure with screws and quick release catch pins that are captured in place by plates with spring ears. The panel on the right side is easily removable by pulling it up to release the quick release catch pins thus facilitating easy access to the jack equipment and the spare tire. I would preposition all of these parts in their respective positions to ensure you have all of the reference points and support structure rigged accurately thus ensuring the exact location of the panels and their attach points. This will ensure the panels , the support beam and the fasteners locate exactly!!!PS check that your gas tank can be installed/removed if you decide to weld in the support bracket rather than bolt it in place!!
Thank you for the detailed explanation, Maureen. I already welded the brackets back and I am pretty sure they are at the exact same location. I am not sure I have all these panels, but I will worry about that when I get to it. For now I want to focus on finishing the body and suspension later.
Thanks ! ! !
Thank YOU!
I had to learn a lot about metal corrosion for my job (nuclear power) and I have fundamental knowledge of how corrosion starts and progresses. I don't understand, however, how it could start there between those panels unless there was a fundamental design flaw that allowed the elements between the metal pieces. A "class problem" as we would say in the Navy...something similar to all of the same boats (or cars in this case) but it's fascinating to me how this stuff happens. Not fun to fix, mind you, but still fascinating! Good job, Elin.
That happens when there are overlapped layers of metal. No matter how well they are seam sealed even if water can't get in there will always going to be a condense. That is why I prefer to do butt weld. I was watching a video of a guy overlapping about 6-7 inches of metal on the floor of a VW bug. He believed he was making it stronger....
When I was repairing this I was seriously considering leaving it open inside, but I knew there were going to be many people to disapprove so I closed it.
Elin, what is the name of that tool you used on the wheel arch? I am encountering the dreaded tin worm and want to make sure I don’t miss any hidden rust spots like you found with it.
Oh my! Who would have thought that. I suppose that is a known problem for this car, but certainly not obvious to the innocent bystander. I'm sure you fix it up fine, but it really is a mess. Thanks for letting us watch.
Yes, it is a known problem for GT6 and I was really surprised my shock mounts were still intact. However, I was only looking inside the wheel well and never thought of checking inside the body tub. Anyway, I learned the hard way I have to check everywhere.
Ugh, I just reviewed my own photos of that part of The Beast and have the same problem... How do you know you went far enough fore and aft? Looks like you could have gone further back on the driver's side, but it's difficult to tell.
I went as close as possible to the spot welds for the external plate. It turns out there are two vertical rows of spot welds at the back so on the driver side I first went behind the first row, but then went back to the front of it. There is about one and a half inches between the rows and that area remained unrepaired, but I just can't get there without taking apart the whole car and I thought it wasn't worth doing that just to clean and paint. I am sure that will be fine. I am planning to use waxoil or similar product inside all enclosed areas and that might be one of them. I will just drill a hole on the inside and spray in it.
Never say "the welding is over" don´t even think it.
;-)
I keep my fingers crossed that was it all now.
Keep your ears stiff my friend (as we say here in Germany ....) ;-)
cheers
Yeah, it looks like I will keep finding more little areas for welding, so I decided to go on a hunt and find them all now.
From the amount of time you spend working on the car, I am guessing you have a very understanding "home boss"! Is she the Anna from your intro?
Yes, my home boss is very understanding and forgiving when it comes to my cars.
Anna was Keith's and Mary's daughter, who they lost 8 years ago. When Keith donated the car to me the name Anna was still on the rear glass written by herself many years ago and I decided to make sure it stays there forever, at least in my videos.
Wanting you use a bottles with a pump in the air pump bottles rust proof and then spray that on where the gaps or holes you can't get to the rust so you all inside where you can't get to the rust with a brush so it's just soap the whole lot underneath between all the gaps
Who needs yoga when you have an LBC.
I know right? I am a little concerned about driving it, but you are taller than me and you still fit in a GT6 so I shouldn't be worried :)
That’s not a battery box.. did cheftush’s car get near this one.. rust jump off...lol
LOL, looks like the battery box is not the only welding that's left :)
Ouch! This is an unexpected turn. Restoring cars takes as much [patience as it does skill and money. Knock it out.
Just another challenge that I will enjoy solving :)
eww wots rest of the wheel arch like, hopefully ok.
elin hi 20+bob in the uk
Oh, wow! Thanks Bob
Why wouldn't you repaint car in original color?
Even though I am not a fan of the red color I already have a red car and I think one is enough. I am also not a purist so it is not really important to go back to the original color. I am planning to keep it and drive it so I'd rather have the car in a color that I like than a color that matches the paperwork, but I don't like. It might be red, but a little darker than the original one. I am considering carmine red, but that is not my only choice.
first