Hi Simon. I was thinking of getting Topaz and just wondering if you have used it for noise reduction in your astro photography? Great video, as always. Cheers 👌👏
I was lucky enough to live a few years in Mwanza (Tanzania). This is less than 2 hours from the western gate of the Serengeti. I would do day trips, leaving at around 4 in the morning (tricky, because driving at night is not allowed and there are roadblocks, but if you explain where you're heading they normally would let you through). If the gate staff was quick enough I could sometimes enter the park before sunrise and position myself at some trees with baboons in them and wait for the morning red to appear in the sky. This gave the opportunity for some fantastic silhouette photos.
My tip: I incorporate rifle shooting concepts for added stability in low light. 1) use my sling for support. Look up what a hasty sling is and use that with your camera strap. 2) Breath hold for stability. Exhale half the air in your lungs and hold before you press the shutter. Hyperventilate ahead of time to oxygenate your blood to lengthen your hold. 3) The rifle shooting positions for standing, kneeling, seated or prone can be easily adapted to photography. I frequently use a squatting position with my elbows resting on my knees. 4) Using paper clips, I made a set of ghost ring sights that I taped to my camera and lens. For birds in flight, I often use these instead of my EVF for fast acquisition and tracking.
No creepy background music, no useless jokes, and no more frequent scene changes. That's Simon for us, bringing the knowledge in most optimal and clean way. Keep up your good spirit! Best wishes from India ❤️
Your advice on overexposing (without clipping) in low light is an absolute game-changer for me. I was always under the impression that ISO = noise. It's very liberating knowing that ISO is your friend and that it's not a matter of less is automatically better.
I didn't quite get that part... If it's low light situation then that implies there isn't enough light to get to the sensor for it to be exposed properly at minimum ISO. So how can you overexpose the image when there isn't enough light in the first place?
@@tothespace2122 You're mostly right. If you keep the ISO low, you're going to have to make significant compromises in other areas, for example shutter speed, to correctly (or over-expose) your image. Simon's advice is to avoid under-exposing your image, even if that means increasing your ISO. This is because brightening an under-exposed image in post makes the noise in the image much more visible. To counteract this, you can increase the ISO more so your image is actually slightly overexposed (but not overly clipping to white), then reduce the exposure in post to reduce noise visibility somewhat. Hope that makes sense.
@@vincemahama Yea but I don't see why this advice is exclusive to low light. If during the day you use high ISO you'll also be forced to use faster shutter speed or higher aperature. The NEED for high ISO always means there will be noise and one can't prevent noise by shifting the histogram right (given that you already have your aperature and shutter speed maximally utilized). It's always best to minimize ISO while getting properly exposed image. There is something called front-end read noise and back-end read noise. Most cameras are not ISO invariant so increasing the ISO and then decresing exposure in post processing is better than using low ISO and then increasing the exposure in post processing. Maybe the video was refering to that? Otherwise the advice can basically be boiled down to: "for any occasion, use the slowest possible shutter speed, the lowest possible aperature and let ISO be what it needs to be".
I really like when You share not only perfect shots, but the bad-ones also. It shows realistically how work in the field looks like. Im more a landscape photographer but I watch Your videos for fun& educational purposes. There is always something to learn and just enjoy how you present informations . Cheers!
Spray and pray is my absolute go to. And if I’m not happy with my photos, at least there’s usually someone around to go “oooh that’s a fancy camera!” and be impressed with my shutter sounds to make me feel a little better 😂 I also like ignoring that I need to breathe, and holding awkward positions so tightly that I pull muscles. Worth it for the shot!
The bird photos are marvelous. Thanks for an enjoyable session. At 82 I still photograph an annual K-8 school theater event that is quite extraordinary. Like wildlife and birds, theater requires a utility photographer's tool bag. What has completely transformed my theater photography is Adobe Denoise AI. Never before could I shoot at up to ISO 20,000 and deliver amazingly clean photos. After this year's shoot I culled 3,660 photos to 155, applied Denoise AI, then corrected the DNG from Denoise as normal. The parents, students, and teachers were very pleased.
I think I've been subscribed to you for a few months now, you have a really great way of explaining things. Also big respect for showing examples of your own "poor" photos to help others learn. I think a lot of TH-cam photographers are reluctant to make themselves look "bad" and only really show the good shots. The problem is it looks unattainable when someone is seemingly always taking perfect shots and it isn't very helpful to people learning not to see what a given mistake looks like. With your examples I find the "mistakes" very relatable and it also helps me identify when I am making the same error because you have shown me what to look for. And then showing what to do to improve and the incredibly good photos of your own at the end makes me feel I have a much better chance of achieving some good shots of my own. Keep up the good work, thank you!
I've only been into photography for about 3 years and I actually am more of a lifestyle family/newborn photographer. BUT you are one of my favourite youtube pros. I love the outdoors and wildlife so of course I love your content but honestly, your guidance and tips have helped me so much in my development, even though our subject matter is different. Thank you for another great video!
I came to photography while being an automotive journalist. On my first day at the magazine, they gave me a 250k+ exposure Canon EOS 700D with a kinda working 18-135 kit lens and no instructions. It took me years to get ok at photography, even if I was doing it every day. Now, years later it's not even a debate, that I am the best photographer working at the same magazine, and all I needed was to find out most of the techniques you show in your videos on my own, trial and error style. I found your channel some weeks ago, and I still learn a lot here. I've seen enough to confirm, that this content is golden. I can't even imagine where I'd be right now if I had found your channel when I started. 100% recommend, amazing work.
People like Simon are the only ones allowed to shoot animals ☝️😎because he doesn't kill them and his trophies show what we need to preserve ❤ Thanks for your work here on TH-cam
Spot on! The signal to noise issue is important. I shootvatvup to ISO 12,800 without noise being an issue provided I shove the histogram to the right. If you have enough dynamic range in the actual view, you get a usable image. You can actually "clean up" noise by introducing noise in processing. I figured this out by realizing that how an image looks depends largely upon how it is perceived in final form. This is done in audio recording by introducing "floor noise" that covers up artifacts in the process.
I do mostly concert photography where the light is always very dark, and I find that the motion blur that comes with using slow shutter speeds can actually lead to some pretty unique shots that are properly exposed without having to raise your iso to crazy heights.
You are one of the if not the best teacher(s) I ever had. And at 50, there have been a few... Your enthusiasm and clarity in words and thoughts help me to enjoy every minute of your videos and love learning more and more... 👍👍👍 Thank you a lot and hi from good old Germany!
My personal trick for low light photography is "Just shoot and don't care about the noise that much and print photos on paper". Many times noise does not ruin photo except maybe on computer screens for pixel peepers. Lots and lots of great photography in history is made where is noise and those are even blurry photos, but still wonderful photography. Just stop caring and start shooting, don't seek for perfection since you never get any shots done because world is not perfect and perfect conditions never comes.
You completely eliminated all the issues I was having with my x-h2 that I wasn't having with a panasonic point and shoot. Fuji should honestly pay you because you made me realize how good this camera actually is, where reviewers just dismissed it. Macro without a flash because I'm shooting at 1/2000 in sunlight with an ISO of 12800 and f/8? Best shots I've taken. You're incredible.
A trick I've learned for dawn light and dusk where we have a dim but full spectrum and a decent amount of contrast is to let the ISO go up. If that spectrum and contrast is not there then it will look grainy. With wildlife we cannot use the slowest of shutters even with crazy stabilisation because they insist on moving, and no lens is fully sharp wide-open and will want shutting down by a stop, maybe only 2/3 or 1/3. I consider ISO 3200 to be normal, no noise , where ISO 6400 is onset and ISO 12800 may need a touch of de-noise, much depends on the read noise of your sensor. This allows a faster shutter and a sharper aperture.
Hi Simon! I recently started bird photography with my old Canon SX40. I got a Canon T7 a few days ago. There has not been anyone who has explained photography tips more clearly and thoroughly than you. Thank you for taking me from having super grainy photos to getting photos I’m actually proud of! Amazing tips, keep up the good work!
love love the tip of your hand at the end of the lens and your brow at the eyepiece. I do this all the time with my 600mm. I'm usually in the forest and high ISO is required. I feel comfy shooting at 8,000 or even 10,000 if I must get the shot. Lowering my shutter and opening up to allow all the light in. I also agree that it doesn't matter what others say, as it's important that you get the shot, especially when we spend thousands of dollars on our trips not to get the shot. Keep on shooting and spreading the love of photography Simon!
There are several people blessed in TH-cam content creators, Unmesh Dinda (Piximperfect ) for photoshop tricks, Simon d'Entremont for photography techniques... Again, thank you sir.
I love that your videos are incredibly practical and snob-free! The reality is most of us hobbyist photographers might not have the luxury of arriving at any given spot with optimal lighting and simply have to make do with the situation. Realistic, helpful advice is so welcome! Can't wait for the next part because I generally find myself shooting in daylight hours (ie: harsh lighting). Most of my trips to explore the southwest US mean I'm driving around to neat points at 11 AM and just have to deal with whatever harsh light is going on.
Thanks again for another informative lesson! As a newer photographer, I find myself shooting in low light more frequently than I anticipated. Your bonus tip about using the histogram and exposing to the right at higher ISOs was exactly what I was looking for and worth watching all the way to the end of the video. My adventure continues.
I have watched your presentations for a good while now. You have loosened up and improved your "on camera" performance. There is a twinkle in your eye! Your videos are informative and fun to watch! Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge.
My favourite photography channel! My low light photography trick is-set radial filter on object and decrease exposure slightly outside filter. That can make object "more lighter" and in more contrast to the backoround. Decrease clarity outside filter (object) at the same time also reduces noisy background.
Apart from the tips, the biggest thing I took from this video is seeing the pro having the same struggles as I do 😊 Thanks for the confidence boost Simon!! As always, great video!
Great to meet you at the TH-cam event Simon! Simon this is really great stuff. We are trying to learn how to improve noise in our underwater stuff. I think some of these tips will translate. But we run into these issues too just trying to get sunset shots etc. We also found shooting in Mexico a challenge with the brightness too!
Simon... Your content is so refreshing!!! You truly ago against the grains to give photographers options improve their skills, and to use your shared knowledge however they please. What I appreciate the most is how genuine you are, and your generosity to share your experiences.
I have tried to explain this whole idea that high iso on its own is not the cause of noise. Incorrect exposure is the cause. It's really a subject that many can't wrap their heads around. I don't have any extra tips other than use Image stabilization if your camera or lens has it, to combat shakiness if you're doing low light hand held photos. Other than that, pretty much everything you've mentioned is what I do. This was a great video my eastern Canada neighbour! (I'm about an hour east of Toronto).
Simon, you nailed it. Bravo. I’ve been shooting wildlife in Africa for most of my time as a photographer and I often just shake my head at some of the advice I see on TH-cam or in books, given by folks who clearly have no experience in the area. Everything you have described is as it is: you don’t control the light, the angle, the behaviour, or even the subject you (might) see. At best, you can time your arrival at a given location. There’s no time (generally) for tripods, and the behaviour you’re seeing you may never see again! The beanbag is your best friend. Be ready, be quick, *always* immediately take the “insurance shot” before tinkering with settings, and mostly just use the lowest aperture / fastest shutter speed you can get, ISO be darned… Finally, if you happen to see a Leopard in a tree with a kill and it’s midday, well, so be it: take the shot because the animals never read the manual that says they’re only supposed to be active in golden hour.
You are the first person to mention prefocusing for flying birds. I have been doing this for a while. It is especially helpful when a bird comes back to a particular spot or flies through an area frequently.
@ 9:20 back button focus will greatly improve the tracking and locking focus to speed up the servo shooting. I love that feature and use it all the time.
10:25 great lesson about learning about species behavior as a good foundation for increasing predictability of getting a good capture, and that sometimes it's a team effort
Thank you so much for your wonderful lessons! You are not only a master of your craft, but also a giving and informative teacher. You share your joy of the art of photography and we benefit so much from your lessons. I look foward to your videos and welcome the ability to have your esrlier videos as reference. Thanks again !
Hello Simon, I love your practical instructional videos. I almost always have my auto ISO set +2/3 stop and rarely clip the highlights on the subject. I have been using 1.4x on RF100-500, so almost always dealing with high ISO when shooting in early or late situations. I find that denoise in Lightroom and then bringing up exposure with the highlight slider instead of the exposure slider really makes a difference with noise.
If there's anything I've learned binging your videos is the camera body doesn't matter too much. However, your lense, position, lighting, and knowledge are what can make an incredible photo 😉👌 Getting my Canon 850D next Friday and I'm incredibly excited!
Thank you, Simon. Great advice and instruction, as always. It seems that while technology keeps changing the camera’s ability, most photography instruction stays traditional. I appreciate how you encourage people to push past these older ideas and that you have the results to back up the techniques.
As a Kenyan, I had the opportunity to explore Amboseli National Park towards the end of last year. Watching your video now, I realize how much it would have helped me then, as you've expertly addressed the very challenges I faced. Your clear explanations and extensive knowledge are truly commendable. Thank you for sharing your expertise-I'm subscribing right away. 😊
I shoot an older APS-C DSLR (Pentax K70). In low light I can use every ISO up to 800 without any sacrifice. 1600 ist manageable with a little bit more elaborate processing and denoising. 3200 is still usable with topaz ai denoise. Beyond that I just enjoy, what I'm seeing and I have my peace with it. If you don't pay for really good low light capabilities, then you just have to adapt your expectations in low light and that's fine for me.
Absolutely fascinating to listen to your videos. I used to be very into photography ... 42y ago. Just got back into it, equipped myself and then realized that the game has changed quite a bit (used to shoot manual black and white), and you sir, are one unbelievable source of knowledge on how to use today's technology, and the way you explain things is just fantastic. Thank you. Merci Simon.
your channel is great, straight to the point, clean, without any shouting and boom transition. you do it in your own way, not these days social media concepts and thats great. Ive leaned a lot from you, Just wanna say thank you❤
I was able to get a vibrantly colored beautiful sunset shot with a 10mm to 20mm wide lens on my Nikon D5300 using Aperture Priority lowest setting with a stop on the ISO level so it could not go up too high. I got images people are praising me for and I didn't even use a tripod. Beats me because I keep reading about the limitations of my inferior gear to most others....Watching your videos is truly helping my confidence and I am learning so much! I take mass pictures of everything I photo and dump what isn't to my liking. I always get something by doing that.
Last night at sunset I had my first experience with American Woodcocks displaying. I had my R5 with EF 600 f/4 MK II on a tripod, and my first time using the remote shutter. One of the woodcocks landed straight ahead, and I fired off a burst of 1/6 second shots. One of them was fairly usable even after noise reduction! Fortunately the bird was sitting completely still for more than a second. The remote shutter definitely helped. By the time the sun was completely set, we were using my LCD display on the camera to watch the birds, with the shutter speed set to 30 seconds, and it was like having night-vision goggles with full color (almost)!
Fantastic insights, Simon. Navigating the nuanced lighting of early mornings and the golden hues of late afternoons can indeed pose a challenge. However, it's precisely these moments that offer unparalleled photographic opportunities, especially in Africa. Your suggestions are invaluable for mastering these critical shooting times.
This guy is brilliant, I always take loads of pictures on rapid shot then pick the best ones, and i'm not too worried about ISO as I have an excellent camera in low light.
Simon, that is great info to assist me on my Safari trip!! I thank you!! I will not stay in bed. I have never shot wildlife at such a slow speed!! Nothing to lose.
In general for shooting relatively long exposures: Sniper technique - breathe slow, shoot on exhale, push the trigger softly. For long lenses you can rest your left palm on the right shoulder (if you are right-handed) and use your elbow as an additional stabilizing point
When shooting in bad light I use pixel peeking . Auto foucs does not always work. Also you can work out what is in foucs . But my biggest tip is don’t wait till you’re on holiday to try to learn your equipment. I have the 180/600z for the last 8 weeks when I have time I have spent time trying to work out how it preforms in low light how it performs best for me .I shoot on manual so I get to know what works for me. The last tip is to release the camera is a machine, it does not have moods that bits tells you more about you than your equipment. ISO need not always have to be so high has you think . Light room gives a lot of light power if you know how to use it correctly. So really practice makes perfect. Kind off trade off. I live 15 mins away from a local park . It’s as a pound and wild life there. I have loads of photos of geese ducks gulls and dogs. I plan to expand my collection of course however for now a fast moving duck or geese in flight allow me to work out what works for me gives me hands on practical experience of my gear. Horses or the local deer seagull or Golden eagle same skill factor for capture for all So be a Boy Scout and learn your equipment . It pays you practice
I absolutely love the fact that you go against some of the rules. The spray and pray method is something I would never let myself do due to the fear of getting blurry photos, but the way you explained it makes it some its something I will definitely try next time.
This is the best video on this topic anywhere I have seen. Very nicely done! I dont have a special tip, except to repeat that taking many shots at a slower shutter speed can result in capturing some great dynamic movement with birds, even if details are blurred. Of course stabilizing the camera is still critical, even though the final photo is less sharp, because you need all the sharpness you can get.
There is clearly a direct relationship between high ISO and noise, generally. I am always pleasantly surprised when I capture a tack sharp image with a relatively high ISO and don’t always necessarily understand why. Good video.
One of your best ever. I'm sharing with all my friends. Common sense technique with logical purpose statement. Shoot with a purpose and have a reason for your settings.
You always have such impeccable timing Simon. I was just shooting a eastern screech owl yesterday in low light. I was practicing ETTR and shooting slower shutter speed while watching my ISO.
Thank you so much for the lesson. As a beginner photographer the lesson about exposing to the right is super helpful. I was in the camp that low iso is better but it makes sense that allowing more light can is more beneficial.
The bonus tip only applies to Canon cameras. The others (using Sony sensors) are ISO invariant and underexposing + raising in post will look the same as ETTR. And with the NR tools available today, you can shoot at much higher ISO than you mentioned - I have some ISO 12800 photos shot on MFT that look pretty damn amazing.
My first killer camera came this week As did the rains . If i have to be in a day or week i get to have your wonderful ,generous advice videos to learn !
The last tip was really good, thanks. My first digital was the entry-level EOS 400D (from when our first was born), now he's adult and I stepped up with a practically unused EOS 70D expecting grand(er) results. Where the old one couldn't go higher than ISO1600, the new one is ISO12800 (or 25600?) and boy did I get noise. I read the instruction book, bought the "EOS 70D for dummies" (it actually exists) and started to watch these videos. Now, at that stage I was wondering if the camera was failing ... but it's probably just me. That's better than not knowing.
Great info about ISO and noise. I rarely shoot wildlife, mainly landscape and architecture, and tend to make as few exposures as possible. Having the opportunity to check results in camera is a luxury in this type of photography. As the video shows, this thinking must go when photographing activity in wildlife. Thanks for the video.
All your advice about ISO has been soooo helpful for me!! I always heard the advice of shooting at 100 ISO but that wasn’t going to work for me taking low light images! I recently did a shoot at night in the downtown area of a city and could not have pulled it off if it wasn’t for your advice about using higher ISO!
Some very good information here, thank you. My trick is fix the shutter, fix the aperature, and set auto-iso, letting the iso be whatever it needs to be. (Nikon D5) Shoot raw, and fix the highlights and noise in post. As you said, it doesn't matter if the ISO is low if you have motion blur. Speaking of which, I don't recall you mentioning this, but in tricky light situations, it's vital that you shoot raw. You can do much more with a raw image in post than you can a jpg. I also tend to expose bright, and occasionally I overdrive the highlights, which tends to bleed a bit (at least on my monitor) and give the impression of blur. I've noticed that exposing bright but dialing down the highlights slightly can make some photos look sharper. Not too much, or the photo looks dull. I'm also a big fan of "pre-loading" your autofocus, by focusing on an object the appropriate distance before the subject comes into frame. I have a Topaz license, but recently went back to Lightroom's AI driven noise reduction. It seems to work well enough that I don't bother with Topaz anymore. Again, good article. Lots of good information.
Love your videos. They've given me a lot of useful information and tips that I have applied. However, in this instance for the majority of the photography I'm hired to do, there's only one bit of info that works for me. Spray and pray lol. Mostly, I shoot dance events that are indoors with low light and oftentimes colorful or complicated lighting. My shutter can't go below 1/250 since the movement is too fast for slower. The best tip I can give for people in a similar situation is be aware of ambient lighting and take advantage of it whenever possible, especially if a flash is not. Don't listen to the people that tell you not to use a lens hood indoors. I've never faced anything more challenging than these dance events and there's really only a handful of people who do them. At least that I know of or have met.
Expose to the right if you want high ISO delight! One additional technique I have used with good results, specifically thinking of taking photos of forest mushrooms, which is where I encounter some of my lowest light situations, is use a wider angle lens in place of a longer lens. I use a Canon 35mm f/2 IS lens with a 12mm tube to knock down the MFD a bit so I can get a little closer. It might be a bit of an unusual use for that kind of lens, but it has made for a pretty good low light set up for forest mushrooms, even in the darkest hemlock grove. I could get sharp results with lower shutter speeds than I could with my 100mm macro lens and I preferred the wider perspective. But I'm not sure there'd be much application for that, using a wider angle lens in place of a longer lens, outside of something like forest mushrooms.
Great tips as always, Simon. I'm very firmly in the "spray and pray" category - with the emphasis on prayer! I also use Topaz and, although purists will no doubt argue that I should get it right in-camera, it really is an amazing aid. I've been using it on some old scanned family-and-friends photos from the 80s (taken on a Hanimex point-and-shoot) with remarkable results. Thanks!
Once again, Simon, THANK YOU! I actually learned something useful from this video (which is a habit while watching your content). In particular, I had never heard of exposing to the right. Once you say it aloud it is obvious and makes perfect sense (instead of clipping off the left, push the whole compressed histogram over to the right, where there is plenty of room! duh!). Thanks for the outstanding content and continued encouragement!
Glad you enjoyed Kenya! Love this. Spray and pray is my go to when trying to take pictures of busy insects - with my very low spec camera! Two shots I'm happy with out of 200 is a good day!
Thanks Simon! Very helpful tips as usual. I recently started shooting some peacocks in my area with a 70-200mm 2.8 lens and your videos have really help me out. Really glad I found you!
In low light I use an monopod. It provides great stability, allows me to shoot at slow speeds & it’s very portable. Simple and effective. It’s ideal for shooting night sports.
The other expose tip was a good one, I've just started using the hysterogram to stop clipping but pushing the exposure when needed sounds like the right thing to do.
Hi Simon, I sometimes use a tabletop tripod, with the legs extended and pressed against my chest. The three legs give more stability. You just have to stand still and hold your breath for a couple of seconds. Thanks for the videos. Really appreciated.
What’s your favorite crazy-low-light technique? Let us know!
Hi Simon. I was thinking of getting Topaz and just wondering if you have used it for noise reduction in your astro photography?
Great video, as always. Cheers 👌👏
The s-curve adjustment has served me well
I'm thinking ETTR is probably going to be my go-to for low light. I think it's going to work far better for where I live.
I was lucky enough to live a few years in Mwanza (Tanzania). This is less than 2 hours from the western gate of the Serengeti. I would do day trips, leaving at around 4 in the morning (tricky, because driving at night is not allowed and there are roadblocks, but if you explain where you're heading they normally would let you through). If the gate staff was quick enough I could sometimes enter the park before sunrise and position myself at some trees with baboons in them and wait for the morning red to appear in the sky. This gave the opportunity for some fantastic silhouette photos.
Ditch the telephoto for a smaller lens with a bigger aperture and get as close as I can. I don't photograph lions though 😂.
Best tip for low light shooting is to watch Simon d'Entremont 😊
Honesty is the best policy
😂😂😂😂
My tip: I incorporate rifle shooting concepts for added stability in low light. 1) use my sling for support. Look up what a hasty sling is and use that with your camera strap. 2) Breath hold for stability. Exhale half the air in your lungs and hold before you press the shutter. Hyperventilate ahead of time to oxygenate your blood to lengthen your hold. 3) The rifle shooting positions for standing, kneeling, seated or prone can be easily adapted to photography. I frequently use a squatting position with my elbows resting on my knees. 4) Using paper clips, I made a set of ghost ring sights that I taped to my camera and lens. For birds in flight, I often use these instead of my EVF for fast acquisition and tracking.
Same! Used to shoot guns and archery.
Great advice. One needs to get the shot!
Photo shooting techniques also let me win 35 straight rounds of buckhunter with no practice, so they’re transferable and rewarding in many ways!
I'm calling the cops
It's very true, do what you would for a rifle. I exhale when I need low shutter speeds and don't have a tripod
No creepy background music, no useless jokes, and no more frequent scene changes. That's Simon for us, bringing the knowledge in most optimal and clean way. Keep up your good spirit! Best wishes from India ❤️
I love that you shares all your "failed" lion photos. We too often only see the best shots and wonder how on earth they got that!
Your advice on overexposing (without clipping) in low light is an absolute game-changer for me. I was always under the impression that ISO = noise. It's very liberating knowing that ISO is your friend and that it's not a matter of less is automatically better.
I didn't quite get that part... If it's low light situation then that implies there isn't enough light to get to the sensor for it to be exposed properly at minimum ISO. So how can you overexpose the image when there isn't enough light in the first place?
@@tothespace2122 You're mostly right. If you keep the ISO low, you're going to have to make significant compromises in other areas, for example shutter speed, to correctly (or over-expose) your image. Simon's advice is to avoid under-exposing your image, even if that means increasing your ISO. This is because brightening an under-exposed image in post makes the noise in the image much more visible. To counteract this, you can increase the ISO more so your image is actually slightly overexposed (but not overly clipping to white), then reduce the exposure in post to reduce noise visibility somewhat. Hope that makes sense.
@@vincemahama Yea but I don't see why this advice is exclusive to low light. If during the day you use high ISO you'll also be forced to use faster shutter speed or higher aperature. The NEED for high ISO always means there will be noise and one can't prevent noise by shifting the histogram right (given that you already have your aperature and shutter speed maximally utilized). It's always best to minimize ISO while getting properly exposed image.
There is something called front-end read noise and back-end read noise. Most cameras are not ISO invariant so increasing the ISO and then decresing exposure in post processing is better than using low ISO and then increasing the exposure in post processing. Maybe the video was refering to that?
Otherwise the advice can basically be boiled down to: "for any occasion, use the slowest possible shutter speed, the lowest possible aperature and let ISO be what it needs to be".
@@tothespace2122he can't. He's wrong.
@@tothespace2122in other words, the video is wrong, you can't get get something for free.
I really like when You share not only perfect shots, but the bad-ones also. It shows realistically how work in the field looks like.
Im more a landscape photographer but I watch Your videos for fun& educational purposes. There is always something to learn and just enjoy how you present informations . Cheers!
Glad you like them!
Spray and pray is my absolute go to. And if I’m not happy with my photos, at least there’s usually someone around to go “oooh that’s a fancy camera!” and be impressed with my shutter sounds to make me feel a little better 😂
I also like ignoring that I need to breathe, and holding awkward positions so tightly that I pull muscles. Worth it for the shot!
😂😂
The bird photos are marvelous. Thanks for an enjoyable session. At 82 I still photograph an annual K-8 school theater event that is quite extraordinary. Like wildlife and birds, theater requires a utility photographer's tool bag. What has completely transformed my theater photography is Adobe Denoise AI. Never before could I shoot at up to ISO 20,000 and deliver amazingly clean photos. After this year's shoot I culled 3,660 photos to 155, applied Denoise AI, then corrected the DNG from Denoise as normal. The parents, students, and teachers were very pleased.
I think I've been subscribed to you for a few months now, you have a really great way of explaining things. Also big respect for showing examples of your own "poor" photos to help others learn. I think a lot of TH-cam photographers are reluctant to make themselves look "bad" and only really show the good shots. The problem is it looks unattainable when someone is seemingly always taking perfect shots and it isn't very helpful to people learning not to see what a given mistake looks like. With your examples I find the "mistakes" very relatable and it also helps me identify when I am making the same error because you have shown me what to look for. And then showing what to do to improve and the incredibly good photos of your own at the end makes me feel I have a much better chance of achieving some good shots of my own. Keep up the good work, thank you!
ETTR for life! I learnt this from you first. Thanks for educating us, Simon!
Waiting for part 2.
More to come!
Spray and pray is my JAM 😅
I've gone as low as 1/30 s. Your videos are the most useful to me, THANK YOU.
I've only been into photography for about 3 years and I actually am more of a lifestyle family/newborn photographer. BUT you are one of my favourite youtube pros. I love the outdoors and wildlife so of course I love your content but honestly, your guidance and tips have helped me so much in my development, even though our subject matter is different. Thank you for another great video!
Wow, thank you!
I came to photography while being an automotive journalist. On my first day at the magazine, they gave me a 250k+ exposure Canon EOS 700D with a kinda working 18-135 kit lens and no instructions. It took me years to get ok at photography, even if I was doing it every day. Now, years later it's not even a debate, that I am the best photographer working at the same magazine, and all I needed was to find out most of the techniques you show in your videos on my own, trial and error style. I found your channel some weeks ago, and I still learn a lot here. I've seen enough to confirm, that this content is golden. I can't even imagine where I'd be right now if I had found your channel when I started. 100% recommend, amazing work.
Too kind!
People like Simon are the only ones allowed to shoot animals ☝️😎because he doesn't kill them and his trophies show what we need to preserve ❤ Thanks for your work here on TH-cam
Spot on! The signal to noise issue is important. I shootvatvup to ISO 12,800 without noise being an issue provided I shove the histogram to the right. If you have enough dynamic range in the actual view, you get a usable image. You can actually "clean up" noise by introducing noise in processing. I figured this out by realizing that how an image looks depends largely upon how it is perceived in final form. This is done in audio recording by introducing "floor noise" that covers up artifacts in the process.
if you shove the histogram to the right, isn't it the same as shoving it 1 stop lower and setting ISO to 1 stop lower, effectively same shutter speed?
Or just add film grain to cover up the noise haha
At last, someone talking common sense and giving some real tips. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I do mostly concert photography where the light is always very dark, and I find that the motion blur that comes with using slow shutter speeds can actually lead to some pretty unique shots that are properly exposed without having to raise your iso to crazy heights.
Unsolicited suggestion - Adobe Denoise AI might be worth a test. It has transformed my theater photography. We've come so far from Tri-X.
When shooting a concert, I usually wait for lights stroboscopes or fires to go on. It is like having a flash on the stage 😁
You are one of the if not the best teacher(s) I ever had. And at 50, there have been a few...
Your enthusiasm and clarity in words and thoughts help me to enjoy every minute of your videos and love learning more and more... 👍👍👍
Thank you a lot and hi from good old Germany!
Wow, thank you!
My personal trick for low light photography is "Just shoot and don't care about the noise that much and print photos on paper". Many times noise does not ruin photo except maybe on computer screens for pixel peepers. Lots and lots of great photography in history is made where is noise and those are even blurry photos, but still wonderful photography. Just stop caring and start shooting, don't seek for perfection since you never get any shots done because world is not perfect and perfect conditions never comes.
We need more of your positive and chill energy down here in the states. Keep em coming! 😎
You completely eliminated all the issues I was having with my x-h2 that I wasn't having with a panasonic point and shoot. Fuji should honestly pay you because you made me realize how good this camera actually is, where reviewers just dismissed it. Macro without a flash because I'm shooting at 1/2000 in sunlight with an ISO of 12800 and f/8? Best shots I've taken. You're incredible.
A trick I've learned for dawn light and dusk where we have a dim but full spectrum and a decent amount of contrast is to let the ISO go up. If that spectrum and contrast is not there then it will look grainy. With wildlife we cannot use the slowest of shutters even with crazy stabilisation because they insist on moving, and no lens is fully sharp wide-open and will want shutting down by a stop, maybe only 2/3 or 1/3. I consider ISO 3200 to be normal, no noise , where ISO 6400 is onset and ISO 12800 may need a touch of de-noise, much depends on the read noise of your sensor. This allows a faster shutter and a sharper aperture.
Hi Simon! I recently started bird photography with my old Canon SX40. I got a Canon T7 a few days ago. There has not been anyone who has explained photography tips more clearly and thoroughly than you. Thank you for taking me from having super grainy photos to getting photos I’m actually proud of! Amazing tips, keep up the good work!
love love the tip of your hand at the end of the lens and your brow at the eyepiece. I do this all the time with my 600mm. I'm usually in the forest and high ISO is required. I feel comfy shooting at 8,000 or even 10,000 if I must get the shot. Lowering my shutter and opening up to allow all the light in. I also agree that it doesn't matter what others say, as it's important that you get the shot, especially when we spend thousands of dollars on our trips not to get the shot. Keep on shooting and spreading the love of photography Simon!
There are several people blessed in TH-cam content creators, Unmesh Dinda (Piximperfect ) for photoshop tricks, Simon d'Entremont for photography techniques... Again, thank you sir.
Thanks for that!
I love that your videos are incredibly practical and snob-free! The reality is most of us hobbyist photographers might not have the luxury of arriving at any given spot with optimal lighting and simply have to make do with the situation. Realistic, helpful advice is so welcome!
Can't wait for the next part because I generally find myself shooting in daylight hours (ie: harsh lighting). Most of my trips to explore the southwest US mean I'm driving around to neat points at 11 AM and just have to deal with whatever harsh light is going on.
Good ideas; also like your encouraging sign-off: "I know you can do it." Thanks for the confidence. Alex
Thanks again for another informative lesson! As a newer photographer, I find myself shooting in low light more frequently than I anticipated. Your bonus tip about using the histogram and exposing to the right at higher ISOs was exactly what I was looking for and worth watching all the way to the end of the video. My adventure continues.
I have watched your presentations for a good while now. You have loosened up and improved your "on camera" performance. There is a twinkle in your eye! Your videos are informative and fun to watch! Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge.
Thanks, Simon! I just wanted to say congratulations on two years of success on YT!
Thanks! It’s been amazing.
Thanks Mr. Simon for the tip to move histogram to the right rather than go for shutter adjustment. Your bee eater is awesome!
Those bee eater shots are insane!
You are like a never ending fountain of photography knowledge, my friend haha excellent work!👌🏼
Thanks a ton!
Thanks for the great advice as always. Looking forward to part 2 just as I am practicing taking photos in difficult lighting.
Coming soon!
My favourite photography channel! My low light photography trick is-set radial filter on object and decrease exposure slightly outside filter. That can make object "more lighter" and in more contrast to the backoround. Decrease clarity outside filter (object) at the same time also reduces noisy background.
Great tip!
Apart from the tips, the biggest thing I took from this video is seeing the pro having the same struggles as I do 😊 Thanks for the confidence boost Simon!! As always, great video!
Great to meet you at the TH-cam event Simon!
Simon this is really great stuff. We are trying to learn how to improve noise in our underwater stuff. I think some of these tips will translate. But we run into these issues too just trying to get sunset shots etc. We also found shooting in Mexico a challenge with the brightness too!
My pleasure Riane!
Simon... Your content is so refreshing!!!
You truly ago against the grains to give photographers options improve their skills, and to use your shared knowledge however they please.
What I appreciate the most is how genuine you are, and your generosity to share your experiences.
You have the clearest tutorials I have ever seen. Even when it comes to video.
Thank you for your videos. So helpful
Great images Simon, I’m not even a wildlife photographer but I’m addicted to your videos.
Thanks for being so free with your knowledge 👏👏👏
I have tried to explain this whole idea that high iso on its own is not the cause of noise. Incorrect exposure is the cause. It's really a subject that many can't wrap their heads around. I don't have any extra tips other than use Image stabilization if your camera or lens has it, to combat shakiness if you're doing low light hand held photos. Other than that, pretty much everything you've mentioned is what I do. This was a great video my eastern Canada neighbour! (I'm about an hour east of Toronto).
Your channel is such a great asset to wildlife & nature photographers!!
Simon, you nailed it. Bravo. I’ve been shooting wildlife in Africa for most of my time as a photographer and I often just shake my head at some of the advice I see on TH-cam or in books, given by folks who clearly have no experience in the area. Everything you have described is as it is: you don’t control the light, the angle, the behaviour, or even the subject you (might) see. At best, you can time your arrival at a given location. There’s no time (generally) for tripods, and the behaviour you’re seeing you may never see again! The beanbag is your best friend. Be ready, be quick, *always* immediately take the “insurance shot” before tinkering with settings, and mostly just use the lowest aperture / fastest shutter speed you can get, ISO be darned… Finally, if you happen to see a Leopard in a tree with a kill and it’s midday, well, so be it: take the shot because the animals never read the manual that says they’re only supposed to be active in golden hour.
So true! And the advice everyone gives to shoot at iso 100 all the time. Yeah, try THAT in Africa!
You are the first person to mention prefocusing for flying birds. I have been doing this for a while. It is especially helpful when a bird comes back to a particular spot or flies through an area frequently.
@ 9:20 back button focus will greatly improve the tracking and locking focus to speed up the servo shooting. I love that feature and use it all the time.
10:25 great lesson about learning about species behavior as a good foundation for increasing predictability of getting a good capture, and that sometimes it's a team effort
Thank you so much for your wonderful lessons! You are not only a master of your craft, but also a giving and informative teacher. You share your joy of the art of photography and we benefit so much from your lessons. I look foward to your videos and welcome the ability to have your esrlier videos as reference. Thanks again !
Wow, thank you!
Hello Simon, I love your practical instructional videos. I almost always have my auto ISO set +2/3 stop and rarely clip the highlights on the subject. I have been using 1.4x on RF100-500, so almost always dealing with high ISO when shooting in early or late situations. I find that denoise in Lightroom and then bringing up exposure with the highlight slider instead of the exposure slider really makes a difference with noise.
08:39 and 09:36 - love the incidental capture of the dragon fly among the flamingos - then the reference to a helicopter
If there's anything I've learned binging your videos is the camera body doesn't matter too much. However, your lense, position, lighting, and knowledge are what can make an incredible photo 😉👌 Getting my Canon 850D next Friday and I'm incredibly excited!
Thank you, Simon. Great advice and instruction, as always. It seems that while technology keeps changing the camera’s ability, most photography instruction stays traditional. I appreciate how you encourage people to push past these older ideas and that you have the results to back up the techniques.
As a Kenyan, I had the opportunity to explore Amboseli National Park towards the end of last year. Watching your video now, I realize how much it would have helped me then, as you've expertly addressed the very challenges I faced. Your clear explanations and extensive knowledge are truly commendable. Thank you for sharing your expertise-I'm subscribing right away. 😊
I shoot an older APS-C DSLR (Pentax K70). In low light I can use every ISO up to 800 without any sacrifice. 1600 ist manageable with a little bit more elaborate processing and denoising. 3200 is still usable with topaz ai denoise. Beyond that I just enjoy, what I'm seeing and I have my peace with it. If you don't pay for really good low light capabilities, then you just have to adapt your expectations in low light and that's fine for me.
Absolutely fascinating to listen to your videos. I used to be very into photography ... 42y ago. Just got back into it, equipped myself and then realized that the game has changed quite a bit (used to shoot manual black and white), and you sir, are one unbelievable source of knowledge on how to use today's technology, and the way you explain things is just fantastic. Thank you. Merci Simon.
your channel is great, straight to the point, clean, without any shouting and boom transition. you do it in your own way, not these days social media concepts and thats great. Ive leaned a lot from you, Just wanna say thank you❤
I was able to get a vibrantly colored beautiful sunset shot with a 10mm to 20mm wide lens on my Nikon D5300 using Aperture Priority lowest setting with a stop on the ISO level so it could not go up too high. I got images people are praising me for and I didn't even use a tripod. Beats me because I keep reading about the limitations of my inferior gear to most others....Watching your videos is truly helping my confidence and I am learning so much! I take mass pictures of everything I photo and dump what isn't to my liking. I always get something by doing that.
Last night at sunset I had my first experience with American Woodcocks displaying. I had my R5 with EF 600 f/4 MK II on a tripod, and my first time using the remote shutter. One of the woodcocks landed straight ahead, and I fired off a burst of 1/6 second shots. One of them was fairly usable even after noise reduction! Fortunately the bird was sitting completely still for more than a second. The remote shutter definitely helped. By the time the sun was completely set, we were using my LCD display on the camera to watch the birds, with the shutter speed set to 30 seconds, and it was like having night-vision goggles with full color (almost)!
Fantastic insights, Simon. Navigating the nuanced lighting of early mornings and the golden hues of late afternoons can indeed pose a challenge. However, it's precisely these moments that offer unparalleled photographic opportunities, especially in Africa. Your suggestions are invaluable for mastering these critical shooting times.
This guy is brilliant, I always take loads of pictures on rapid shot then pick the best ones, and i'm not too worried about ISO as I have an excellent camera in low light.
I always learn something new every time I watch your videos.
Glad to hear it!
Simon, that is great info to assist me on my Safari trip!! I thank you!! I will not stay in bed. I have never shot wildlife at such a slow speed!! Nothing to lose.
In general for shooting relatively long exposures:
Sniper technique - breathe slow, shoot on exhale, push the trigger softly.
For long lenses you can rest your left palm on the right shoulder (if you are right-handed) and use your elbow as an additional stabilizing point
When shooting in bad light I use pixel peeking . Auto foucs does not always work. Also you can work out what is in foucs . But my biggest tip is don’t wait till you’re on holiday to try to learn your equipment. I have the 180/600z for the last 8 weeks when I have time I have spent time trying to work out how it preforms in low light how it performs best for me .I shoot on manual so I get to know what works for me. The last tip is to release the camera is a machine, it does not have moods that bits tells you more about you than your equipment. ISO need not always have to be so high has you think . Light room gives a lot of light power if you know how to use it correctly. So really practice makes perfect. Kind off trade off. I live 15 mins away from a local park . It’s as a pound and wild life there. I have loads of photos of geese ducks gulls and dogs. I plan to expand my collection of course however for now a fast moving duck or geese in flight allow me to work out what works for me gives me hands on practical experience of my gear. Horses or the local deer seagull or Golden eagle same skill factor for capture for all So be a Boy Scout and learn your equipment . It pays you practice
I absolutely love the fact that you go against some of the rules. The spray and pray method is something I would never let myself do due to the fear of getting blurry photos, but the way you explained it makes it some its something I will definitely try next time.
I am so glad I found your channel several months ago. You have helped me so much and you’re a great teacher! Thank you!
This is the best video on this topic anywhere I have seen. Very nicely done!
I dont have a special tip, except to repeat that taking many shots at a slower shutter speed can result in capturing some great dynamic movement with birds, even if details are blurred. Of course stabilizing the camera is still critical, even though the final photo is less sharp, because you need all the sharpness you can get.
There is clearly a direct relationship between high ISO and noise, generally. I am always pleasantly surprised when I capture a tack sharp image with a relatively high ISO and don’t always necessarily understand why. Good video.
I love your enthusiasm, Simon
One of your best ever. I'm sharing with all my friends. Common sense technique with logical purpose statement. Shoot with a purpose and have a reason for your settings.
You’re a great teacher. I learn something new with every video.
Your channel is amazingly useful for me. Thank you for the high-level, up-tempo presentation and the delivery of truly pragmatic jewels.
You always have such impeccable timing Simon. I was just shooting a eastern screech owl yesterday in low light. I was practicing ETTR and shooting slower shutter speed while watching my ISO.
Just info. No weird intro cringey jokes or fake 'setting up' moments.
Just a super nice guy giving info. ❤❤
Thank you so much for the lesson. As a beginner photographer the lesson about exposing to the right is super helpful. I was in the camp that low iso is better but it makes sense that allowing more light can is more beneficial.
The bonus tip only applies to Canon cameras. The others (using Sony sensors) are ISO invariant and underexposing + raising in post will look the same as ETTR.
And with the NR tools available today, you can shoot at much higher ISO than you mentioned - I have some ISO 12800 photos shot on MFT that look pretty damn amazing.
Simon, these photographers are using good techniques, thanks to all your help.😊
Great to hear!
Fantastic coverage of some really advanced techniques, Simon! The bird shot is just beautiful! Merci beaucoup!
My first killer camera came this week
As did the rains . If i have to be in a day or week i get to have your wonderful ,generous advice videos to learn !
The last tip was really good, thanks. My first digital was the entry-level EOS 400D (from when our first was born), now he's adult and I stepped up with a practically unused EOS 70D expecting grand(er) results. Where the old one couldn't go higher than ISO1600, the new one is ISO12800 (or 25600?) and boy did I get noise. I read the instruction book, bought the "EOS 70D for dummies" (it actually exists) and started to watch these videos. Now, at that stage I was wondering if the camera was failing ... but it's probably just me. That's better than not knowing.
I never knew that about the ETTR on the high ISO shots...this is going to be very handy for me. I can't wait to try it out. Thanks yet again, Simon!
Happy to help!
Great info about ISO and noise. I rarely shoot wildlife, mainly landscape and architecture, and tend to make as few exposures as possible. Having the opportunity to check results in camera is a luxury in this type of photography. As the video shows, this thinking must go when photographing activity in wildlife. Thanks for the video.
ETTR is the best thing I have ever learnt along with so many other things. Thanks Simon
All your advice about ISO has been soooo helpful for me!! I always heard the advice of shooting at 100 ISO but that wasn’t going to work for me taking low light images! I recently did a shoot at night in the downtown area of a city and could not have pulled it off if it wasn’t for your advice about using higher ISO!
Some very good information here, thank you.
My trick is fix the shutter, fix the aperature, and set auto-iso, letting the iso be whatever it needs to be. (Nikon D5) Shoot raw, and fix the highlights and noise in post. As you said, it doesn't matter if the ISO is low if you have motion blur.
Speaking of which, I don't recall you mentioning this, but in tricky light situations, it's vital that you shoot raw. You can do much more with a raw image in post than you can a jpg.
I also tend to expose bright, and occasionally I overdrive the highlights, which tends to bleed a bit (at least on my monitor) and give the impression of blur. I've noticed that exposing bright but dialing down the highlights slightly can make some photos look sharper. Not too much, or the photo looks dull.
I'm also a big fan of "pre-loading" your autofocus, by focusing on an object the appropriate distance before the subject comes into frame.
I have a Topaz license, but recently went back to Lightroom's AI driven noise reduction. It seems to work well enough that I don't bother with Topaz anymore.
Again, good article. Lots of good information.
Love your videos. They've given me a lot of useful information and tips that I have applied. However, in this instance for the majority of the photography I'm hired to do, there's only one bit of info that works for me. Spray and pray lol. Mostly, I shoot dance events that are indoors with low light and oftentimes colorful or complicated lighting. My shutter can't go below 1/250 since the movement is too fast for slower. The best tip I can give for people in a similar situation is be aware of ambient lighting and take advantage of it whenever possible, especially if a flash is not. Don't listen to the people that tell you not to use a lens hood indoors. I've never faced anything more challenging than these dance events and there's really only a handful of people who do them. At least that I know of or have met.
salvage the moment as best as you can is the best conclusion i got from this video
thanks for the great advices
Glad it was helpful!
I love your videos, I have learned so much. Your delivery is amazing. You are the Bob Ross of photography in my opinion
Wow, thank you!
Expose to the right if you want high ISO delight! One additional technique I have used with good results, specifically thinking of taking photos of forest mushrooms, which is where I encounter some of my lowest light situations, is use a wider angle lens in place of a longer lens. I use a Canon 35mm f/2 IS lens with a 12mm tube to knock down the MFD a bit so I can get a little closer. It might be a bit of an unusual use for that kind of lens, but it has made for a pretty good low light set up for forest mushrooms, even in the darkest hemlock grove. I could get sharp results with lower shutter speeds than I could with my 100mm macro lens and I preferred the wider perspective. But I'm not sure there'd be much application for that, using a wider angle lens in place of a longer lens, outside of something like forest mushrooms.
I learn SO MUCH from your videos. THANK YOU! Adore your photos.
I'm so glad!
Great tips as always, Simon. I'm very firmly in the "spray and pray" category - with the emphasis on prayer! I also use Topaz and, although purists will no doubt argue that I should get it right in-camera, it really is an amazing aid. I've been using it on some old scanned family-and-friends photos from the 80s (taken on a Hanimex point-and-shoot) with remarkable results. Thanks!
Once again, Simon, THANK YOU! I actually learned something useful from this video (which is a habit while watching your content). In particular, I had never heard of exposing to the right. Once you say it aloud it is obvious and makes perfect sense (instead of clipping off the left, push the whole compressed histogram over to the right, where there is plenty of room! duh!).
Thanks for the outstanding content and continued encouragement!
As an amateur who enjoys photography, you are such a great teacher! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Remarkable tips. Well done Simon. Your videos always contain information that is accurate and useful.
Glad you enjoyed Kenya! Love this. Spray and pray is my go to when trying to take pictures of busy insects - with my very low spec camera! Two shots I'm happy with out of 200 is a good day!
Love it!!
Thanks Simon! Very helpful tips as usual. I recently started shooting some peacocks in my area with a 70-200mm 2.8 lens and your videos have really help me out. Really glad I found you!
Thank you Simon. Your videos are excellent. Extremely informative, well laid out, and direct. Those bee-eater shots are amazing.
Many thanks!
In low light I use an monopod. It provides great stability, allows me to shoot at slow speeds & it’s very portable. Simple and effective. It’s ideal for shooting night sports.
THIS is one of my most challenging issues. THANK YOU Simon!!!
The other expose tip was a good one, I've just started using the hysterogram to stop clipping but pushing the exposure when needed sounds like the right thing to do.
Hi Simon,
I sometimes use a tabletop tripod, with the legs extended and pressed against my chest. The three legs give more stability. You just have to stand still and hold your breath for a couple of seconds. Thanks for the videos. Really appreciated.