Really interesting video. I have a 1999 Marin Mount Vision. In its day this was the worlds first full suspension XC bike. It has the original forks but Sachs grip-shifters! These still work well and despite some peoples amusements around grip shifters, didn't the company do well when they went on to become SRAM! The bikes aluminium frame (box swing-arm apart) has a natural aluminium paint finish. This has surface corrosion similar to that you might see on the aluminium parts of motorcycles. It's superficial but it can't be polished out and spoils the bikes looks, which in all other ways looks OK for its age. Hence, I assume the only way to make good, is to strip the frame, than re-prime and re-paint it, and the (perhaps) seal it? Any thoughts at all,
Good stuff. Thank you! How is it different for vintage/old steel, at least beyond the rusting of a steel frame? What is the point at which rust from steel compromises the frame to the point of it being unsafe/unusable; how do you determine this? I see a lot of folks on YT fixing up really old, really rusty steel bikes.
That's a good question. When looking at steel frames that have more then surface rust aka when there is pot marks and flaking etc I assume the inside looks just as bad. I like to take a pick to the rust to see how deep it goes and to see if I can break through, I have a few great examples of a steel frames that are rusted through. Ill dig them out and make a steel edition.
It would need to be re heat treated if welded, so its doable but expensive. Not from overtightening, headtube was to thin and stress from pressing in headset can make them crack fairly common on high end aluminum race bikes from the era.
@@GringineerCycles I forgot about heat treatment, I know that people often skip the expensive part of heat treatment and just weld it if its a non structural part, ride it until it breaks but that is not recommended for obvious reasons
Awesome video. Do you think it's worth investing/buying aluminium vintage/retro MTB's? There's lots of chatter online about cracking of alu frames but I've always liked them and think they are so much better to ride than steel frames but I've got the fear now...
I wouldn't be afraid to ride an vintage/retro aluminum frame, I have multiple on my collection that I ride. Including a 1992 Alpinestar Al Mega and 98 Yeti Arc. Now I do inspected the frames thoroughly before I decided to build them up as riders and I would recommend the same. Also here in Minnesota our mtb trails are fairly mellow so the bikes are not getting to much abuse. It wouldn't hurt to check your riders on a regular basis if your planning on riding them a ton. Hope this helps.
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really good video, thank you!
You deserve so much more subscribers & views!
Thanks.
Thanks for the tips , will definitely come in handy, now I have to go check my bikes
Hope they all checked out ok.
Really interesting video. I have a 1999 Marin Mount Vision. In its day this was the worlds first full suspension XC bike. It has the original forks but Sachs grip-shifters! These still work well and despite some peoples amusements around grip shifters, didn't the company do well when they went on to become SRAM! The bikes aluminium frame (box swing-arm apart) has a natural aluminium paint finish. This has surface corrosion similar to that you might see on the aluminium parts of motorcycles. It's superficial but it can't be polished out and spoils the bikes looks, which in all other ways looks OK for its age. Hence, I assume the only way to make good, is to strip the frame, than re-prime and re-paint it, and the (perhaps) seal it? Any thoughts at all,
Great video, thanks! Would love to see another one on steel bikes!
Edit: I see you have one, perfect 👌
Good stuff. Thank you! How is it different for vintage/old steel, at least beyond the rusting of a steel frame? What is the point at which rust from steel compromises the frame to the point of it being unsafe/unusable; how do you determine this? I see a lot of folks on YT fixing up really old, really rusty steel bikes.
That's a good question. When looking at steel frames that have more then surface rust aka when there is pot marks and flaking etc I assume the inside looks just as bad. I like to take a pick to the rust to see how deep it goes and to see if I can break through, I have a few great examples of a steel frames that are rusted through. Ill dig them out and make a steel edition.
@@GringineerCycles Thanks so much!
If the Manitou headtube is welded, would it be rideable? Was it from an overtightened headset?
It would need to be re heat treated if welded, so its doable but expensive. Not from overtightening, headtube was to thin and stress from pressing in headset can make them crack fairly common on high end aluminum race bikes from the era.
@@GringineerCycles I forgot about heat treatment, I know that people often skip the expensive part of heat treatment and just weld it if its a non structural part, ride it until it breaks but that is not recommended for obvious reasons
Awesome video. Do you think it's worth investing/buying aluminium vintage/retro MTB's? There's lots of chatter online about cracking of alu frames but I've always liked them and think they are so much better to ride than steel frames but I've got the fear now...
I wouldn't be afraid to ride an vintage/retro aluminum frame, I have multiple on my collection that I ride. Including a 1992 Alpinestar Al Mega and 98 Yeti Arc. Now I do inspected the frames thoroughly before I decided to build them up as riders and I would recommend the same. Also here in Minnesota our mtb trails are fairly mellow so the bikes are not getting to much abuse. It wouldn't hurt to check your riders on a regular basis if your planning on riding them a ton. Hope this helps.
@@GringineerCycles Thanks for that - very helpful 👍