@@marioblaauw5760 Not bad. I wouldnt think those params would indicate cyano, so it could be lighting or flow. Whats your light schedule and what lights are you using?
Greetings. I just just finished battling Dinos. It was a real struggle. I ended up getting a kid’s microscope on A***zon to identify what type (resistant to UV), started dosing waterglass every day, filtering my sand to physically remove as much as possible, ended up losing a good portion of my sand. Also started a regular regimen of dosing microbacter 7 and Waste Away. Now the dinos are no longer visible, but now I have a cyno bloom.
Cyano is easier to deal with than Dinos for sure, and its not toxic to the inhabitants! You'll get it kicked. Cyano is usually due to an imbalance of parameters, specifically Nitrates to Phosphates. Where are yours at?
@@reefrookies I dosed a lot of Neonitro because evidently my nitrates and phosphates were both zeroed out. I guess I overdid it because at one point nitrates were way up in the 60's, but phosphates gave me no reading with the test I used. I've been steadily doing water changes to lower nitrates. My most recent reading was 22, Phos still not registering. I ordered the Hanna Phosphate reader hoping that will be more accurate.
I'm having a weird issue, my nitrates are around 40-50 and phosphate is 0, was doing sugar dosing to bring down nitrates (worked wonderfully in the past) but this time no working, probably because there are no phosphate for bacteria to grow, so now I'm confused if I dose phosphate first and see the results or dose phosphate alongside sugar dosing, corals are fine but polyps are not fully out of the acroporas Was doing 50% water changes regularly but was not helping that much (probably because I think my rock is adding nitrates to the tank)
@@reefrookies Used two different salifert test kit,1 Nyos and one Api, all reading zero, immediately don't have the money to buy Hanna but pretty sure it's very low and close to zero, I have started dosing phosphate from today and now my phosphate is about 0.03, thinking of keeping it here for a week and see anything improves
I just battled dinos recently as well. I threw the sink at it and not sure what actually worked cause I did it all. I got velvet, all my fish died and I had to go fallow for a few months. That said, my nitrates bottomed out with no fish and after I finally started adding fish again I got ostreopsis. I raised my tank temp to 83, dosed nitrates and phosphates, dosed microbacter7, vibrant, hydrogen peroxide, and I’ve had a uv sterilizer since day 1. Lost a lot of euphylia but some coral never suffered. Even my clams were un affected. I dosed silicates, did a 3 day blackout. My tank today was finally zero dinos. But it’s also the first day back with lights on. I know the cause of the dinos with fish lost and nitrates bottomed out. Just hope im finally past them.
Don't ever put fish in your tank without quarantining for 6 weeks. 4 weeks in copper power, antibiotics, and 2 weeks observing. You won't go through velvet or ich again. I don't believe in doing a saltwater tank without quarantine, it's cruel to the fish otherwise
I love your videos, right to the point, no waste of time or any gimmicks, always great clear audio. Keep it up dude 👌
I appreciate that! Thanks for watchin fam!
Very useful videos as always.
Glad it helps!
Good tips. And thank you 🙏🏻
@@jonclark8155 Welcome!
Phosphate also is being absorbed in the hair algae too. Also love your super small fox face 😊
Yes it is. The fox face is actually about 4" or so. Hes growing tho!
Just found the channel, nice video. I am really struggling with algae or cyano. There is just so much comments on what phos and nitrates should be.
Yeah it can be hard because there are so many variables. What are your N and P currently? How old is the tank?
@@reefrookies True, about 1.5 Years old. N is at N 6.5 and P 0.04.
@@marioblaauw5760 Not bad. I wouldnt think those params would indicate cyano, so it could be lighting or flow.
Whats your light schedule and what lights are you using?
@@reefrookies Using radeon 30`s gen5. two on 650 P, so its to little. On 10 hour schedule. My flow might be the problem, never thought of that
@@marioblaauw5760 Flow definitely plays a bit role!
Ive had my tank for a year now ive never ever put any type of chemicals or quick fixes. Very good mechanical filtration, a good skimmer and a uv ligh.
I support your path!
Greetings. I just just finished battling Dinos. It was a real struggle. I ended up getting a kid’s microscope on A***zon to identify what type (resistant to UV), started dosing waterglass every day, filtering my sand to physically remove as much as possible, ended up losing a good portion of my sand. Also started a regular regimen of dosing microbacter 7 and Waste Away. Now the dinos are no longer visible, but now I have a cyno bloom.
Cyano is easier to deal with than Dinos for sure, and its not toxic to the inhabitants! You'll get it kicked. Cyano is usually due to an imbalance of parameters, specifically Nitrates to Phosphates. Where are yours at?
@@reefrookies I dosed a lot of Neonitro because evidently my nitrates and phosphates were both zeroed out. I guess I overdid it because at one point nitrates were way up in the 60's, but phosphates gave me no reading with the test I used. I've been steadily doing water changes to lower nitrates. My most recent reading was 22, Phos still not registering. I ordered the Hanna Phosphate reader hoping that will be more accurate.
@@jasonstyles100 yep that massive imbalance is whats causing it. Stay the course and get them back into balance. :)
Dynos and I can’t get it under control.
Have you been able to get microscopic ID of what dinos you have? Sometimes thats required in order for proper treatment.
@@reefrookiesnope, I don’t have access to a microscope.
I'm having a weird issue, my nitrates are around 40-50 and phosphate is 0, was doing sugar dosing to bring down nitrates (worked wonderfully in the past) but this time no working, probably because there are no phosphate for bacteria to grow, so now I'm confused if I dose phosphate first and see the results or dose phosphate alongside sugar dosing, corals are fine but polyps are not fully out of the acroporas
Was doing 50% water changes regularly but was not helping that much (probably because I think my rock is adding nitrates to the tank)
Thats a tough situation to be in. What are you using to test phosphates?
@@reefrookies Used two different salifert test kit,1 Nyos and one Api, all reading zero, immediately don't have the money to buy Hanna but pretty sure it's very low and close to zero,
I have started dosing phosphate from today and now my phosphate is about 0.03, thinking of keeping it here for a week and see anything improves
@@EIY_Kumar Sounds like a plan to me, lmk how it progresses!
I just battled dinos recently as well. I threw the sink at it and not sure what actually worked cause I did it all. I got velvet, all my fish died and I had to go fallow for a few months. That said, my nitrates bottomed out with no fish and after I finally started adding fish again I got ostreopsis. I raised my tank temp to 83, dosed nitrates and phosphates, dosed microbacter7, vibrant, hydrogen peroxide, and I’ve had a uv sterilizer since day 1. Lost a lot of euphylia but some coral never suffered. Even my clams were un affected. I dosed silicates, did a 3 day blackout. My tank today was finally zero dinos. But it’s also the first day back with lights on. I know the cause of the dinos with fish lost and nitrates bottomed out. Just hope im finally past them.
I feel this so much! Im hoping you got it solved fam!
Don't ever put fish in your tank without quarantining for 6 weeks. 4 weeks in copper power, antibiotics, and 2 weeks observing. You won't go through velvet or ich again. I don't believe in doing a saltwater tank without quarantine, it's cruel to the fish otherwise