I've done this 3 times now, on a 2010 and a 2011 Prius and just recently on a friend's newer big-Prius. Thanks for this video. Not surprisingly, it gets easier with practice. Here's what I've learned: 1. The small rectangular rear plate is *much* easier to install than the big front plate. Do that one first for practice if this is your first time. 2. Run a fan under the car to keep things ventilated while you're cleaning with the rubbing alcohol. I didn't until my 3rd time and I'm pretty sure that's why I felt woozy the first 2 times. You'll also want good lighting, safety glasses, and a warm garage (the VHB tape should be applied at 60F or warmer). 3. Marking new 3/16" plate pilot holes with a Sharpie and pre-drilling them away from the car makes the large plate a lot easier to install. I did this on my 2nd and and 3rd cars, drilling 2 new holes next to each of the 4 larger pre-drilled holes and a few elsewhere, including a couple on the small rectangular rear plate. This made it easy to avoid gas lines, etc. 4. The supplied rivets for the large holes are too big for the standard $20-$30 pop rivet tools, so even though I wanted to use those as well they ended up not being an option for me. 5. Getting the red backing off the VHB tape was *very* frustrating at first. Don't use short segments of tape if you intend to peel away the plastic backing as in the video. Bend the tape around and just use a few big segments. I used short segments my 1st time and ended up just taking the backing off in advance and wiggling the plate in carefully. On my 2nd time, I used long enough segments to peel. Even then, removing the backing was probably the most frustrating part of the job. I *finally* figured out a good way to get the red backing off on my 3rd time working with the tape. The trick was to cut it off the reel only 90% of the way across, then pull to tear the final 10%. The tearing process stretches the plastic to create a little flap that you can easily hook with fingernails or scissor-tips to peel off. If you practice this trick on the rear rectangular plate, it will make the front plate a lot easier. 6. Yes to what others have said about JB Weld. I tried solder and couldn't get it to work, but JB Weld was quick and simple. The only reason not to use JB Weld would be if you ever wanted to get the plate off yourself someday. 7. Have lots of extra Phillips driver bits, and don't use an overpowered impact wrench. I broke multiple bits before I got my torque right.
Thanks a ton, I followed your way of installing shield with VHB tape and self-tapping screws on my 3rd GEN Prius. Installation took about an hour and half with impact driver and I believe your technique is way better than installing with rivets, as rivets can come lose after sometime and will result in annoying rattling noise. Instead of solder I used JB weld which is also quite difficult to remove and thieves gonna be having really tough time drilling through JB weld first before reaching the mounting screws. On top of all these, stealing Gen 3 cat is pretty difficult as front portion of Cat is way up inside the car, I believe that's the reason Gen3s are not targeted much. One important advice for others, use hardened steel self-tapping screws cause the Prius under belly is made of thick steel, I had to use two tapping screws per hole to get the job done. After a while head of the screws were getting stripped off and couldn't drill any further Thanks again for you awesome video.
I really like your idea of using screws and tape instead of the rivets. I'm planning on using this approach but with security screws instead. Did you use the same size screws for all holes? If do, do you remember which size? I have a 2010 Prius too, and my shield has 17 or 18 holes and shield is 2 mm aluminum. Thanks for any advice! I hope you're still happy with the installation?
I think the security screws are a good idea! Just make sure you don’t get them too long and know where they are going into so you don’t puncture anything!
Cute idea but I can make my own shield out of galvanized duct sheet metal for pennies. First make a cardboard template of under the car, and then cut out the metal. Use many more screws to secure the plate too. FYI the aluminum shield this video uses can be torn off in a few minutes by a determined thief with a prybar. Also use screws with one way turning (aka tamperproof). Like those found in restroom toilet stalls. In the end though NOTHING will stop a determined thief if he(she) really wants your cat conv. Anything you do under the car will only slow them ten or 15 minutes. Also I wonder about the State Inspection guy and what he will think of not being able to see the exhaust anymore! LOL
The alloy Cat Security shields are a lot burlier than galvanized duct sheet metal, and have laser cut cooling vents etc. And they fit. That said, thieves took the cat out of my parent's 2001 Honda Odyssey recently, and a custom shield would have been the only option for that one.
I've done this 3 times now, on a 2010 and a 2011 Prius and just recently on a friend's newer big-Prius. Thanks for this video. Not surprisingly, it gets easier with practice. Here's what I've learned:
1. The small rectangular rear plate is *much* easier to install than the big front plate. Do that one first for practice if this is your first time.
2. Run a fan under the car to keep things ventilated while you're cleaning with the rubbing alcohol. I didn't until my 3rd time and I'm pretty sure that's why I felt woozy the first 2 times. You'll also want good lighting, safety glasses, and a warm garage (the VHB tape should be applied at 60F or warmer).
3. Marking new 3/16" plate pilot holes with a Sharpie and pre-drilling them away from the car makes the large plate a lot easier to install. I did this on my 2nd and and 3rd cars, drilling 2 new holes next to each of the 4 larger pre-drilled holes and a few elsewhere, including a couple on the small rectangular rear plate. This made it easy to avoid gas lines, etc.
4. The supplied rivets for the large holes are too big for the standard $20-$30 pop rivet tools, so even though I wanted to use those as well they ended up not being an option for me.
5. Getting the red backing off the VHB tape was *very* frustrating at first. Don't use short segments of tape if you intend to peel away the plastic backing as in the video. Bend the tape around and just use a few big segments. I used short segments my 1st time and ended up just taking the backing off in advance and wiggling the plate in carefully. On my 2nd time, I used long enough segments to peel. Even then, removing the backing was probably the most frustrating part of the job.
I *finally* figured out a good way to get the red backing off on my 3rd time working with the tape. The trick was to cut it off the reel only 90% of the way across, then pull to tear the final 10%. The tearing process stretches the plastic to create a little flap that you can easily hook with fingernails or scissor-tips to peel off. If you practice this trick on the rear rectangular plate, it will make the front plate a lot easier.
6. Yes to what others have said about JB Weld. I tried solder and couldn't get it to work, but JB Weld was quick and simple. The only reason not to use JB Weld would be if you ever wanted to get the plate off yourself someday.
7. Have lots of extra Phillips driver bits, and don't use an overpowered impact wrench. I broke multiple bits before I got my torque right.
Do u know where I could find video to install a shield for Gen 4 Prius 2018)? Thx!
Thanks a ton, I followed your way of installing shield with VHB tape and self-tapping screws on my 3rd GEN Prius. Installation took about an hour and half with impact driver and I believe your technique is way better than installing with rivets, as rivets can come lose after sometime and will result in annoying rattling noise.
Instead of solder I used JB weld which is also quite difficult to remove and thieves gonna be having really tough time drilling through JB weld first before reaching the mounting screws. On top of all these, stealing Gen 3 cat is pretty difficult as front portion of Cat is way up inside the car, I believe that's the reason Gen3s are not targeted much.
One important advice for others, use hardened steel self-tapping screws cause the Prius under belly is made of thick steel, I had to use two tapping screws per hole to get the job done. After a while head of the screws were getting stripped off and couldn't drill any further
Thanks again for you awesome video.
The content and quality are really good. What kind of camera do you use?
Thank you :)! I use an iPhone 11
@@MINUTEDIYVIDEOS oh ...thank you
I really like your idea of using screws and tape instead of the rivets. I'm planning on using this approach but with security screws instead. Did you use the same size screws for all holes? If do, do you remember which size? I have a 2010 Prius too, and my shield has 17 or 18 holes and shield is 2 mm aluminum. Thanks for any advice! I hope you're still happy with the installation?
Yeah I am happy with it, still quiet
I think the security screws are a good idea! Just make sure you don’t get them too long and know where they are going into so you don’t puncture anything!
Thanks for all info
Cute idea but I can make my own shield out of galvanized duct sheet metal for pennies. First make a cardboard template of under the car, and then cut out the metal. Use many more screws to secure the plate too. FYI the aluminum shield this video uses can be torn off in a few minutes by a determined thief with a prybar. Also use screws with one way turning (aka tamperproof). Like those found in restroom toilet stalls. In the end though NOTHING will stop a determined thief if he(she) really wants your cat conv. Anything you do under the car will only slow them ten or 15 minutes. Also I wonder about the State Inspection guy and what he will think of not being able to see the exhaust anymore! LOL
The alloy Cat Security shields are a lot burlier than galvanized duct sheet metal, and have laser cut cooling vents etc. And they fit. That said, thieves took the cat out of my parent's 2001 Honda Odyssey recently, and a custom shield would have been the only option for that one.
15 minutes to get stolen after paying somewhere around $1,500+ in California?I'm rethinking it is just a waste of money really.
Wouldn't epoxy have been easier?
Epoxy is hard. The tape is a tar like adhesive that absorbs vibrations like rubber feet do on vibrating machinery.