Mathew, I really dig this outline of split filtering. I'm a photography student at Montana state and we do most of our entire program in the dark room. I have never done 00 filter test strips on top of the 5 filter and it makes a lot of sense. I'll have to try it out! Thanks
Great vid Matt! And I totally disagree with the previous comment about split-grade printing being equal to single grade. In fact the real power of this technique is in multi filter burning and dogging not just an overall cumulative exposure.
@bmfilmnut To clarify due to space limitations my previous post: Flashing involves exposing the paper to a very small amount of non-image forming light (diffused), usually before the main exposure but it can also be done after the main exposure. The idea is to bring the paper to just under threshold so that the paper will respond to additional exposure. It is used to bring in highlight detail that would otherwise be blank white. The term "flashing" was used incorrectly in this video.
First off awesome video! Although I had a question, how do you go about burning and dodging?? Do you burn with the filters? And if so which do you prefer for burning? Thanks!
I've just started working on split grade printing. I don't know if I'll get a reply, but if you expose grade 5 first and find, lets say, 15 seconds, do you expose it at grade 5 for 15 seconds before making your grade 00 test? It's not mentioned here, but that's what I've read. Do you need to do it this way? Thanks!
Hi Andrew! Thanks for your question. When making test strips for grade 00 with a known grade 5 exposure, make your grade 5 exposures first. Then, make a series of grade 00 exposures along that paper to find the correct time. Once you have a grade 5 and grade 00 time, the order of use for the final print shouldn't matter much, but I always went ahead and did the 00 first.
interesting technique.. You are obviously talking about contrast filters .. Correct? The only thing that concerns me about this is switching contrast filters with out moving enlarger head, resulting in a blurry image. Also.. those bullet proof area's that you pointed out, you still have to do old school burning.. correct?
+ToddB987 I do split grade printing with a colour head and I don't get any blur. Just be careful in dialing. I avoid having prints like that now by exposing for half the advertised ISO and developing at least 15% (depending on film type) less. It should print well on grade 2, plus or minus 1/2 grade. They also sell an adaptor that fits onto the lens and under which you can slip in contrast filters. Faster than dialing in all the way to the end.
I´ve been trying split grade printing for a while, but I always get extremly flat midtones and highlights, maybe its because I´ve been forced to use the useless HP5+ film for a while..
If your midtones and highlights are coming in flat, you may be overdoing your low grade (0-1) exposure a little bit. If it's all tracing back to the film stock you're using, I rate my HP5+ at 200 to flesh out my shadow and midtone values.
"Hi, my name is Tim, yeah, i had a 22-22 big head, but yesterday, my head was Squashed, by a car; so yeah, that's how my head was flattened to: -1-1- negative small head. :P
Mathew, I really dig this outline of split filtering. I'm a photography student at Montana state and we do most of our entire program in the dark room. I have never done 00 filter test strips on top of the 5 filter and it makes a lot of sense. I'll have to try it out! Thanks
Outside its says SHOP but the wrong way round. Did you print this in reverse on purpose?
Great vid Matt! And I totally disagree with the previous comment about split-grade printing being equal to single grade. In fact the real power of this technique is in multi filter burning and dogging not just an overall cumulative exposure.
@bmfilmnut To clarify due to space limitations my previous post: Flashing involves exposing the paper to a very small amount of non-image forming light (diffused), usually before the main exposure but it can also be done after the main exposure. The idea is to bring the paper to just under threshold so that the paper will respond to additional exposure. It is used to bring in highlight detail that would otherwise be blank white. The term "flashing" was used incorrectly in this video.
You video camera needs to be held steady or you make viewers seasick.
Thanks for this. You explain things in such a logical way.
Hi I love this picture! Just wondering what was the final exposure timings?
First off awesome video! Although I had a question, how do you go about burning and dodging?? Do you burn with the filters? And if so which do you prefer for burning? Thanks!
I've just started working on split grade printing. I don't know if I'll get a reply, but if you expose grade 5 first and find, lets say, 15 seconds, do you expose it at grade 5 for 15 seconds before making your grade 00 test? It's not mentioned here, but that's what I've read. Do you need to do it this way? Thanks!
Hi Andrew! Thanks for your question. When making test strips for grade 00 with a known grade 5 exposure, make your grade 5 exposures first. Then, make a series of grade 00 exposures along that paper to find the correct time. Once you have a grade 5 and grade 00 time, the order of use for the final print shouldn't matter much, but I always went ahead and did the 00 first.
very nice and well explained video. thanks!
interesting technique.. You are obviously talking about contrast filters .. Correct? The only thing that concerns me about this is switching contrast filters with out moving enlarger head, resulting in a blurry image. Also.. those bullet proof area's that you pointed out, you still have to do old school burning.. correct?
+ToddB987 I do split grade printing with a colour head and I don't get any blur. Just be careful in dialing. I avoid having prints like that now by exposing for half the advertised ISO and developing at least 15% (depending on film type) less. It should print well on grade 2, plus or minus 1/2 grade. They also sell an adaptor that fits onto the lens and under which you can slip in contrast filters. Faster than dialing in all the way to the end.
So you have an 8x10 enlarger? You mentioned enlarging 8x10 negs to 16x20. If so that is God Level.
Had access to an 8x10 enlarger.
I´ve been trying split grade printing for a while, but I always get extremly flat midtones and highlights, maybe its because I´ve been forced to use the useless HP5+ film for a while..
If your midtones and highlights are coming in flat, you may be overdoing your low grade (0-1) exposure a little bit. If it's all tracing back to the film stock you're using, I rate my HP5+ at 200 to flesh out my shadow and midtone values.
I too shoot/dev it at 200.. Guess I'll give it a try again.. Thanks
+HogbergPhotography I've come to using HP-5 only for portraits. It's soft tones are good for it.
Great photo by the way.
That's funny you mention grade 2. That's usually the perfect grade I'm usually I'm at for a good print.
Hey I like the video very much, but sorry . . . your video-cam-work in this clip makes me feel dizzy.
f*cking huge negatives :)
"Hi, my name is Tim, yeah, i had a 22-22 big head, but yesterday, my head was Squashed, by a car; so yeah, that's how my head was flattened to: -1-1- negative small head. :P
Hard to follow sorry
lol this video is ancient, look at newer videos for easier to follow content