Thank you for being so clear and concise in your narratives. It can be frustrating to a new builder when things get glossed over assuming every one knows various things. Your becoming my "go to" guy.
Hi Ed, thank you so much for your videos! Your Armin wing design is awesome! Two sections joined together to make a 60 inch wing is the greatest thing since sliced bread! I've been making these for the last three years.
Your build technique is absolutely awesome! I, as a total beginner could build a great flying aircraft with no issues to speak of. Thanks so much for putting this much effort into making these videos.People like you make this community awesome!
Hi Ed! i just found your channel last week and just want to say your techniques and tips are genius. I'm still fairly new to foam building and you have made everything so easy and affordable. I've already started using your techniques and designs. I just finished a 42" wingspan arman wing and it's produced professional results. I've done wiped out the local dollar tree of foam board and plan on building many of your airplanes. Just wanted to say you are doing a great job and thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I would tape the whole thing before folding the 7" wing. You'll use up all but about 4" of foamboard, so you may "waste" a couple of tape applications, but I almost always find a use for that little pre-taped strip in some other place, like the fuselage tube joiner (tape facing in). Also see video on "Two Tone Color Wings" for some details on where to apply tape so it ends up right once the wing is folded.
this is my favorite scratch built straight wing design. Beautiful! I will let you know how it turns out. Just dropped $20 on Adams Foam. I love the modular fuselage design too.
In response to the comments asking for dimensions: If you do not add the 2in Former then using the 5-inch wing as an example. The top half will be 1/4" + 5" + the length of the Aileron which is probably 1.5". If you add the Top 2" Former you will want to add 1cm-1/4" to the length in order to maintain your desired Aileron length.
Great instructional video! I got some great tips on the improved airfoil bend. I think the FT Versa Wing can be heavily improved with this technique. I also love your method of adding aerodynamics to the trailing edge and control surfaces. I noticed that your leading edge bend can be pretty thick. Keep up the great work!
You are the first person to make that connection after 1 million channel views! Yes I do prefer EDM, AvB is a favorite, and we did get the name idea from him, though our Armin is not named after AvB per se. I did send him a picture of infant son because I figured he would think that was cool, and he responded with a Dutch "congratulations" card, a nice addition to the scrapbook.
Amazing video and great explanations! I've built multiple of these to use on my foam board planes, they work amazing and are super durable. I would just like to emphasize to everybody that the foam board you use can greatly effect the difficulty of this build. For a while, I was using Elmers foam board, but it was so frustrating because the paper wouldn't peel off smoothly. I just carefully watched the video again, and realized that I should be using Adam's or Dollar Tree foam board, and this makes the build many times easier! Thanks for all of your great videos!
Excellent! I tend to play this vid while I'm making Armin type wings, just to remind myself of stuff. And when you mentioned canned air, i opened up another window and found Canned Heat to play in the back ground while I completed the build! So now I'm rockin out and wingin it at the same time. Rock on Ed! B¬)
It's still an ongoing process and getting better all the time with practice. I made up the wing and tubular fuselage methods and worked on those by building 5 planes over about 3 months before posting the first videos last year. Probably 6 months before that I was toying around with some cambered wings that were not nearly as easy to build nor as effective but helped pave the way to the methods you see now.
Cabelas is my source. $6 or less per arrow is pretty good. Pull the nocks out by twisting with pliers. Cut of the fletching with a utility knife. Usually 5 passes will take off the fin and all the residual plastic material. You can sand them too but the slick finish is actually kind of nice to leave on so they slide inside the wings more easily.
The selective paper removal allows bending of the foamboard to occur in certain ways that results in the wing and tube shapes you see. They can be formed without paper but it takes a lot more diligence to make consistent parts. The weight savings by removing the paper is pretty small. Additionally the tape sticks permanently to the paper, only moderately to exposed foam.
It will work! Just remove paper from the inner surface of the upper and lower wings, at least the part that needs to be bent, and possibly all of it. Measure everything with extra precision and glue the upper surface to the former after careful dry fitting and checking. It may be a little challenging to make a perfectly symmetrical pair of wings, but you can get pretty close with some patience.
No spar needed unless you were doing some nutty high-G turns at 80mph. I never put spars in the 30" wing version, even on my fastest planes. I once tested this at 8lb to wrinkle the wing at centerpoint.
Hey Ed, thank you for all of your fabulous videos. You are an inspiration and a marvelous teacher. I'm blown away with all the ingenious techniques that you have developed and kindly shared with everyone. I'm excited because I have all the needed materials but cant decide what to build first! =) I'm leaning towards the Axon to start with. My brother and I are fairly new pilots and I was wondering if you could give me some tips on how to make the Armin wing able to fly or glide extremely slow? This would kind of give us more time to make corrections and avoid a dirt nap. Also, is there a version of the Armin wing with dihedral? We would love to have the self leveling attribute because of our noobness. Thanks again.
Hope this help😊 Board covering 1:01 Colour scheme 1:14 Spar type 1:28 Two tone colour scoring 1:39 Scoring line 2:10 Bevel trailing edge 2:55 Folding 3:27 5" wing former 4:18 7" wing former 4:44 Former placing 5:05 Control surface 10:30 Create the hinge 11:09 Reinforce the hinge 13:37
Yes, the creasing technique leaves a wing camber that is less smooth but it does work, and does not require removing paper. Dollar Tree foamboard per 20"x30" sheet is: 60g without paper, 120g with paper, 140g with paper and packing tape on one side. So it is 0.3kg/m2 with paper only. Your foamboard is only 33% heavier, so not bad, it will probably work!
Dollar Tree does not sell the ReadiBoard foam board mentioned here anymore. What they sell now as ReadiBoard is not bendable and does not have a layer of paper that can be removed.
Monokote is awesome but expensive. Shrink wrap is OK but getting consistent adhesion with spray adhesive is kind of tricky. Tape is very colorful and sticks very consistently, plus patching is easy. Look for a swept wing design in the next couple of months.
I will do one but cannot promise when. However a very similar technique is used with Depron for the wing as for the fuselage tube, which I did do a video on recently. It's mostly about taping well and compressing the Depron inside the bends, ie: at the leading edge fold of the wing.
That should do you well! The shipping cost is kind of a bummer but it'll get there quick and it's enough tape for at least 5 decent sized planes even with a lot of mess-ups.
Cannot post links here but I buy mine from Cabelas in the US. Some Wal-Marts also carry them. Recently there were some on eBay. Most medium to large sized outdoor stores or hunting places will have them. $3 is the best price, $4-5 is average, don't pay more than $10 - keep looking.
I'd start with 30% of total chord rear of the leading edge but you can probably work it back to 40% with some caution. this is right about where the spar usually falls, and the thickest camber as well. You may already know, but always go nose heavy first and work back from there. I hope to see videos of your glider!
Hi Ed, thanks for great videos. Can you advice - I've build two wings (similar material to Depron), but every time both up and down side bend, so I get more like symmetrical wing . How to assure that the bottom stay straight? Thanks.
Thanks for the great instruction. After having the wings fold "again" on my V2 Raptor I just built a 2 piece 7" Armin Wing and mounted it to my FPV Raptor fuselage. I am running it with flaps and I also added some wing ends. It flys better than any plane I have flown yet.
Undercambered would be fairly difficult. Symmetrical and semi-symmetrical are done be removing some or all of the paper inside the lower skin of the wing and cambering the lower surface too. It is tricky to reproduce the effect, say, between a pair of wings. Very diligent construction and measurements needed.
I watched your video, ran out and grabbed 4 boards form Dollar tree and an hour later had a complete plane with control surfaces! I dont think Ill ever buy another KIT again ehehehe I tried a couple things differently like tapered the tail, solid block firewall with wood mound...plan to fly it next weekend THANKS!
I like hollow carbon fiber spars. They can be found for about $4 and will last a lifetime. There are CF arrows and CF tubes available online. 7.5mm is a good size, plus or minus a mm.
Cool, yeah come on by. Black foamboard is definitely suboptimal. Don't know about duck tape sheets. Sounds possibly useful. Duck tape is my preferred brand, but use it sparingly, as it's heavy.
I don't make any plans but I have several very thorough build video series on my channel for at least six (so far) airplane designs. I would recommend the Photon or Axon first, then the Synapse for a little more challenge. Medium to long wingspan planes with straight wings do great with this wing design. Use one of mine or create your own. There is an RCGroups thread called Foamboard Scratchbuild University that has a lot of smart guys and nice designs on it.
The favored Readi-Board in the US is 5mm or just a hair over with the paper on both sides. You should be OK with any extruded polystyrene foamboard with (this is the important part) paper that is easy to peel off cleanly with no solvents, water, etc.
Whatever sticks foam at a speed that suits you. GG is great, but slow. CA is fine but kind of brittle. Some spray adhesives work, many will not, so do some research and/or experimentation. I tried 3 that did not work so I cannot offer a name of one that does, but someone did comment on that so there is at least one spray that works. Hot glue is so cheap, fast, and versatile it's hard to beat.
I have usually used the 5" on my Noob Tubes but the 7" would probably actually be better on this plane with a short wingspan, especially if you're not an experienced pilot. Try it with two instead of three formers inside for a slightly thinner wing. You'll get somewhat more lift with negligible extra drag.
If the aileron follows the angle of the upper face of the wing it will form a camber. If instead it is flush following the flat underside if will create an angle with the upper face disrupting the airflow. Which is the best option?
Most of them are on this channel: Axon, Photon, Synapse, Fuglyjet, Noob Tube, etc. Any plane that needs a true airfoil, straight wing, foamboard construction.
I would do exactly as you suggest in order to get the bends. FliteTest uses a variation of this for their wings. Most foamboard besides Dollar Tree tends to be a bit heavy so consider using a larger motor for your builds if that is the case. Where do you live?
Here is an Idea instead of the arrow spar. I have found the drive way markers work as well. Not as ridged but work well. Get the 1 that does not have the square or round disk. About 1:99 from Lowe's and other home diy stores.
I really like this design.. I have designed a foamboard model of my full size RANS S7S and the original wing was patterned off of the basic FT STORCH design, but I never quite got it to fly right with that wing so I redesigned it with the Armin Wing and so far it looks pretty good. I have tested joining the wings with dihedral using the FT method. (tape and glue basically) and it seems to work pretty well. I wonder if you have built two piece wings with dihedral ??
What if you don't use entire surface as ailerons? How do you keep sections of wing next to parts you cut for ailerons flat to match bottom of wings & not maintakn that downward curved shape
Hi Ed, fantastic videos....I've learned a hell of a lot with your design concepts and techniques. I have one question about the spar location and formers. Why does the carbon spar get a top former (and then the wing fold over that) but only uses the bottom part of the wing as its bottom former. When flight pressure or forces are applied to the wing, especially in upright flight, wouldn't the force acting on the wing against the spar, act directly against the bottom section of the wing which is not as thick because it only contains the 6mm foam without an additional former for extra support. Am I getting to technical with this?
Hey, I’m having trouble marking his out because i could find where you mentioned the length of the top piece in relation to the 5 inch wing cord. Because of the curve it i takes it will be longer of course, but by how much is unclear.
Hello Ed, I really enjoyed your projects, so I decided to build the AXON. In my country I only found one place to buy the foam board. I have found it extremely difficult to take off the paper bonded to the foam. I thought about making some strong creases on the inside of the wing (maybe 3 or 4). Have some tips for me?!
Very helpful. What is the reason to leave the paper on the bottom inside section? Is the paper left on the farmers too? Was going to try this with a swept wing.
That's awesome news sinve Depron if virtually the only foam i can get in italy without spending a fortune (it's about 80 euros for 20 sheets of 1250x800 mm, 6mm thik foam) I've just ordered a batch. I'll let you know how it goes after glueing few pieces together. BTW i really love your videos. keep it up ;)
Whoops! I put them on RCGroups. It's 3.5oz for the 5" +1.5" wing and 5oz for the 7" +2" wing, where the first number is airfoil and second number is control surface. This is taped, glued, full span control surface, no servos, no spar, no tip cap.
Ed your videos are exceptionally detailed and easy to follow, but I am at a loss when it comes to the electrical and mechanical setup and what to buy. I realized that your video was made many years ago and parts names and performance have changed. being a total newbie in this hobby I need help.
Hey Ed, I have built the first half of the Armin wing for the Axon, but I don't think I did it the right way as you mentioned here... Basically what I did differently is that I measured 1 inch from the 5 inch mark and glued my 1 inch strips with the spar from there instead of starting from the bent. Will that be bad for the wing and mess up its aerodynamic qualities? Basically when you said its about 3/4" from the mark, well on my wing its actually 1" :) Do I need to redo this half? Thanks
Hello Ed, thanks for all these very instructional videos. I'm getting ready to build my first Photon, and I'll be using Depron since we don't have Adams board here in Brasil. Have you tried vinil instead of tape for the foam covering? I saw those car wrap sheets at Banggood's site and they look awesome. There is an article at Flite testes site about a Mini Arrow wing with this material, but without any follow up about how it flew and if it was a good choice.
Hi I have one question would the 7 inch sing generate enough lift for a trainer? The ratio is 5 x the chord is the wingspan ( the chord in dues the 1 inch flaps
Not sure, but it's 3 clicks away at their main website, click "carton sealing tape" on the left, and you will see the rainbow of colors on the right. Click that and you will see all the choices.
Well done! Maybe a better glue gun and/or go pretty thin with the glue application. Only a thin bead is needed for the wing assembly. All the forces at hand are compression and shearing, so not much glue is needed. With practice you'll be turning 'em out by the dozen!
Thank you for being so clear and concise in your narratives. It can be frustrating to a new builder when things get glossed over assuming every one knows various things. Your becoming my "go to" guy.
Hi Ed, thank you so much for your videos! Your Armin wing design is awesome! Two sections joined together to make a 60 inch wing is the greatest thing since sliced bread! I've been making these for the last three years.
Your build technique is absolutely awesome! I, as a total beginner could build a great flying aircraft with no issues to speak of.
Thanks so much for putting this much effort into making these videos.People like you make this community awesome!
Very cool! Being a professional pilot, of course I love this stuff, but I love the name even more!
Armin
Hi Ed! i just found your channel last week and just want to say your techniques and tips are genius. I'm still fairly new to foam building and you have made everything so easy and affordable. I've already started using your techniques and designs. I just finished a 42" wingspan arman wing and it's produced professional results. I've done wiped out the local dollar tree of foam board and plan on building many of your airplanes. Just wanted to say you are doing a great job and thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I would tape the whole thing before folding the 7" wing. You'll use up all but about 4" of foamboard, so you may "waste" a couple of tape applications, but I almost always find a use for that little pre-taped strip in some other place, like the fuselage tube joiner (tape facing in). Also see video on "Two Tone Color Wings" for some details on where to apply tape so it ends up right once the wing is folded.
this is my favorite scratch built straight wing design. Beautiful! I will let you know how it turns out. Just dropped $20 on Adams Foam. I love the modular fuselage design too.
In response to the comments asking for dimensions: If you do not add the 2in Former then using the 5-inch wing as an example. The top half will be 1/4" + 5" + the length of the Aileron which is probably 1.5". If you add the Top 2" Former you will want to add 1cm-1/4" to the length in order to maintain your desired Aileron length.
Great instructional video! I got some great tips on the improved airfoil bend. I think the FT Versa Wing can be heavily improved with this technique. I also love your method of adding aerodynamics to the trailing edge and control surfaces. I noticed that your leading edge bend can be pretty thick. Keep up the great work!
You are the first person to make that connection after 1 million channel views! Yes I do prefer EDM, AvB is a favorite, and we did get the name idea from him, though our Armin is not named after AvB per se. I did send him a picture of infant son because I figured he would think that was cool, and he responded with a Dutch "congratulations" card, a nice addition to the scrapbook.
I know its been a while since you have posted this video but thanks for all the help!
...... It was a while, *4 YEARS ago????* 😢😵😱😵😱
Easy to understand instructions without any deviation from topic as in some other peoples videos who suffer from mental challenges.
Amazing video and great explanations! I've built multiple of these to use on my foam board planes, they work amazing and are super durable.
I would just like to emphasize to everybody that the foam board you use can greatly effect the difficulty of this build. For a while, I was using Elmers foam board, but it was so frustrating because the paper wouldn't peel off smoothly. I just carefully watched the video again, and realized that I should be using Adam's or Dollar Tree foam board, and this makes the build many times easier!
Thanks for all of your great videos!
very cool! If the Wright brothers could see us now!
Not sure if you are still around but I really appreciate your Videos.... Super helpful!!!! Hope to see you in the future....
These are great ideas! Even just the way you do your leading edges, would be a good improvement!!
Excellent! I tend to play this vid while I'm making Armin type wings, just to remind myself of stuff. And when you mentioned canned air, i opened up another window and found Canned Heat to play in the back ground while I completed the build! So now I'm rockin out and wingin it at the same time. Rock on Ed! B¬)
It's still an ongoing process and getting better all the time with practice. I made up the wing and tubular fuselage methods and worked on those by building 5 planes over about 3 months before posting the first videos last year. Probably 6 months before that I was toying around with some cambered wings that were not nearly as easy to build nor as effective but helped pave the way to the methods you see now.
Excellent tutorial! So much detail, yet clearly presented. Learned a lot!
This video is unique. Finally I will finish my low cost homemade Ugly Stick!
Thank you. This video and the previous video are super informative.
I'm about to make my second fpv noob tube...luv the armin wing!!!
Cabelas is my source. $6 or less per arrow is pretty good. Pull the nocks out by twisting with pliers. Cut of the fletching with a utility knife. Usually 5 passes will take off the fin and all the residual plastic material. You can sand them too but the slick finish is actually kind of nice to leave on so they slide inside the wings more easily.
The selective paper removal allows bending of the foamboard to occur in certain ways that results in the wing and tube shapes you see. They can be formed without paper but it takes a lot more diligence to make consistent parts. The weight savings by removing the paper is pretty small. Additionally the tape sticks permanently to the paper, only moderately to exposed foam.
It will work! Just remove paper from the inner surface of the upper and lower wings, at least the part that needs to be bent, and possibly all of it. Measure everything with extra precision and glue the upper surface to the former after careful dry fitting and checking. It may be a little challenging to make a perfectly symmetrical pair of wings, but you can get pretty close with some patience.
No spar needed unless you were doing some nutty high-G turns at 80mph. I never put spars in the 30" wing version, even on my fastest planes. I once tested this at 8lb to wrinkle the wing at centerpoint.
Hey Ed, thank you for all of your fabulous videos. You are an inspiration and a marvelous teacher. I'm blown away with all the ingenious techniques that you have developed and kindly shared with everyone.
I'm excited because I have all the needed materials but cant decide what to build first! =) I'm leaning towards the Axon to start with.
My brother and I are fairly new pilots and I was wondering if you could give me some tips on how to make the Armin wing able to fly or glide extremely slow? This would kind of give us more time to make corrections and avoid a dirt nap. Also, is there a version of the Armin wing with dihedral? We would love to have the self leveling attribute because of our noobness.
Thanks again.
yes that would be great.
Hope this help😊
Board covering 1:01
Colour scheme 1:14
Spar type 1:28
Two tone colour scoring 1:39
Scoring line 2:10
Bevel trailing edge 2:55
Folding 3:27
5" wing former 4:18
7" wing former 4:44
Former placing 5:05
Control surface 10:30
Create the hinge 11:09
Reinforce the hinge 13:37
Yes, the creasing technique leaves a wing camber that is less smooth but it does work, and does not require removing paper. Dollar Tree foamboard per 20"x30" sheet is: 60g without paper, 120g with paper, 140g with paper and packing tape on one side. So it is 0.3kg/m2 with paper only. Your foamboard is only 33% heavier, so not bad, it will probably work!
Thanks sooo much! this is amazing... simplicity of Rc planes at its best.
Great job as usual. Built my first Armin wing 2 days ago for the Axon. Good idea for alignment with two wing construction.
Dollar Tree does not sell the ReadiBoard foam board mentioned here anymore. What they sell now as ReadiBoard is not bendable and does not have a layer of paper that can be removed.
That's sintra board mate
Monokote is awesome but expensive. Shrink wrap is OK but getting consistent adhesion with spray adhesive is kind of tricky. Tape is very colorful and sticks very consistently, plus patching is easy. Look for a swept wing design in the next couple of months.
thanks for the video. I just finished mine and it came out pretty good for the first time doing it.
I will do one but cannot promise when. However a very similar technique is used with Depron for the wing as for the fuselage tube, which I did do a video on recently. It's mostly about taping well and compressing the Depron inside the bends, ie: at the leading edge fold of the wing.
That should do you well! The shipping cost is kind of a bummer but it'll get there quick and it's enough tape for at least 5 decent sized planes even with a lot of mess-ups.
Cannot post links here but I buy mine from Cabelas in the US. Some Wal-Marts also carry them. Recently there were some on eBay. Most medium to large sized outdoor stores or hunting places will have them. $3 is the best price, $4-5 is average, don't pay more than $10 - keep looking.
I'd start with 30% of total chord rear of the leading edge but you can probably work it back to 40% with some caution. this is right about where the spar usually falls, and the thickest camber as well. You may already know, but always go nose heavy first and work back from there. I hope to see videos of your glider!
Removing the paper on the inside of part of the wing is what allows the foamboard to bend up and over for leading edge and cambered part of the wing.
Impressive. No detail is left out of consideration.
Hi Ed, thanks for great videos. Can you advice - I've build two wings (similar material to Depron), but every time both up and down side bend, so I get more like symmetrical wing . How to assure that the bottom stay straight? Thanks.
Thanks for the videos! Building a 2/3 APD now.
Olá muito bom o vídeo. Professor esse material é DEPRON??. Saudações BRASIL. Obrigado. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the great instruction. After having the wings fold "again" on my V2 Raptor I just built a 2 piece 7" Armin Wing and mounted it to my FPV Raptor fuselage. I am running it with flaps and I also added some wing ends. It flys better than any plane I have flown yet.
Undercambered would be fairly difficult. Symmetrical and semi-symmetrical are done be removing some or all of the paper inside the lower skin of the wing and cambering the lower surface too. It is tricky to reproduce the effect, say, between a pair of wings. Very diligent construction and measurements needed.
I watched your video, ran out and grabbed 4 boards form Dollar tree and an hour later had a complete plane with control surfaces! I dont think Ill ever buy another KIT again ehehehe
I tried a couple things differently like tapered the tail, solid block firewall with wood mound...plan to fly it next weekend THANKS!
how would you make this dihedral?
Dude !!! Thankyou so much for this post, this is Badass.
I like hollow carbon fiber spars. They can be found for about $4 and will last a lifetime. There are CF arrows and CF tubes available online. 7.5mm is a good size, plus or minus a mm.
Cool, yeah come on by. Black foamboard is definitely suboptimal. Don't know about duck tape sheets. Sounds possibly useful. Duck tape is my preferred brand, but use it sparingly, as it's heavy.
I don't make any plans but I have several very thorough build video series on my channel for at least six (so far) airplane designs. I would recommend the Photon or Axon first, then the Synapse for a little more challenge. Medium to long wingspan planes with straight wings do great with this wing design. Use one of mine or create your own. There is an RCGroups thread called Foamboard Scratchbuild University that has a lot of smart guys and nice designs on it.
The favored Readi-Board in the US is 5mm or just a hair over with the paper on both sides. You should be OK with any extruded polystyrene foamboard with (this is the important part) paper that is easy to peel off cleanly with no solvents, water, etc.
Whatever sticks foam at a speed that suits you. GG is great, but slow. CA is fine but kind of brittle. Some spray adhesives work, many will not, so do some research and/or experimentation. I tried 3 that did not work so I cannot offer a name of one that does, but someone did comment on that so there is at least one spray that works. Hot glue is so cheap, fast, and versatile it's hard to beat.
My wings lasted me the years. Getting ready to rebuild it
I have usually used the 5" on my Noob Tubes but the 7" would probably actually be better on this plane with a short wingspan, especially if you're not an experienced pilot. Try it with two instead of three formers inside for a slightly thinner wing. You'll get somewhat more lift with negligible extra drag.
Cool! Get building, share your videos and ideas back with us.
If the aileron follows the angle of the upper face of the wing it will form a camber. If instead it is flush following the flat underside if will create an angle with the upper face disrupting the airflow. Which is the best option?
Top video, very conise, beautifully explained awesome job Ed 👍
Ideally yes, it makes it moisture proof and more durable. But the actual wing shape can be accomplished without tape.
which length airfoil and wing span combo would you recommend? 30 in by 5 in? 40 by 5 in? 30 by 7? 40 by 7?
great instructions. thank you for posting this!
Seems to do just fine with the tape pre-applied. Plus, you ever try covering an already-made wing or fuselage with packing tape? Maddening!
Most of them are on this channel: Axon, Photon, Synapse, Fuglyjet, Noob Tube, etc. Any plane that needs a true airfoil, straight wing, foamboard construction.
I would do exactly as you suggest in order to get the bends. FliteTest uses a variation of this for their wings. Most foamboard besides Dollar Tree tends to be a bit heavy so consider using a larger motor for your builds if that is the case. Where do you live?
Very cool and simple explanation. Thanks alot!
Now I have to decide between Armin wing or the KFM airfoil.
Still using this method, my last wing last me two years and alot of crashes.
Here is an Idea instead of the arrow spar. I have found the drive way markers work as well. Not as ridged but work well. Get the 1 that does not have the square or round disk. About 1:99 from Lowe's and other home diy stores.
I really like this design.. I have designed a foamboard model of my full size RANS S7S and the original wing was patterned off of the basic FT STORCH design, but I never quite got it to fly right with that wing so I redesigned it with the Armin Wing and so far it looks pretty good. I have tested joining the wings with dihedral using the FT method. (tape and glue basically) and it seems to work pretty well. I wonder if you have built two piece wings with dihedral ??
What if you don't use entire surface as ailerons?
How do you keep sections of wing next to parts you cut for ailerons flat to match bottom of wings & not maintakn that downward curved shape
Dear sir lovely work, how do you conect both half wind together with dihedral?
fab vid thanks. Is 10mm foam too heavy for these planes? HK Aero. I have lots of it. Going for a spectre. Fat motor. Or your fpv design. thanks Ed
Hi Ed, fantastic videos....I've learned a hell of a lot with your design concepts and techniques. I have one question about the spar location and formers. Why does the carbon spar get a top former (and then the wing fold over that) but only uses the bottom part of the wing as its bottom former. When flight pressure or forces are applied to the wing, especially in upright flight, wouldn't the force acting on the wing against the spar, act directly against the bottom section of the wing which is not as thick because it only contains the 6mm foam without an additional former for extra support. Am I getting to technical with this?
Sure, check out the "Synapse" swept flying wing, also on this channel.
The TH-cam channel Flitetest just introduced a new scratch build video today and mentioned you and the Armin!
that is a fantastic invention!
Hey, I’m having trouble marking his out because i could find where you mentioned the length of the top piece in relation to the 5 inch wing cord. Because of the curve it i takes it will be longer of course, but by how much is unclear.
Hello Ed, I really enjoyed your projects, so I decided to build the AXON. In my country I only found one place to buy the foam board. I have found it extremely difficult to take off the paper bonded to the foam. I thought about making some strong creases on the inside of the wing (maybe 3 or 4). Have some tips for me?!
what a great wing, can't wait to try it?!
what a great video! can't wait to try it, thanks
Would be great if you could explain why do we need to scrape off some parts of paper from the board.
Very helpful. What is the reason to leave the paper on the bottom inside section? Is the paper left on the farmers too? Was going to try this with a swept wing.
That's awesome news sinve Depron if virtually the only foam i can get in italy without spending a fortune (it's about 80 euros for 20 sheets of 1250x800 mm, 6mm thik foam)
I've just ordered a batch. I'll let you know how it goes after glueing few pieces together.
BTW i really love your videos. keep it up ;)
Whoops! I put them on RCGroups. It's 3.5oz for the 5" +1.5" wing and 5oz for the 7" +2" wing, where the first number is airfoil and second number is control surface. This is taped, glued, full span control surface, no servos, no spar, no tip cap.
Thanks. Love the vids. There are a lot of help. 2 thumbs up!!
Either would be good, but for a slow stick I would probably go with the large chord.
How long will the cover last outside in the elements? I'm thinking wind turbine
Ed your videos are exceptionally detailed and easy to follow, but I am at a loss when it comes to the electrical and mechanical setup and what to buy. I realized that your video was made many years ago and parts names and performance have changed. being a total newbie in this hobby I need help.
Excellent work.
What other options are there for glue instead of hot glue? I've got Loctite spray adhesive, gorilla glue white and brown, super 77 and super glue.
Cabelas, but you can get them from lots of places.
Hey Ed, I have built the first half of the Armin wing for the Axon, but I don't think I did it the right way as you mentioned here... Basically what I did differently is that I measured 1 inch from the 5 inch mark and glued my 1 inch strips with the spar from there instead of starting from the bent. Will that be bad for the wing and mess up its aerodynamic qualities? Basically when you said its about 3/4" from the mark, well on my wing its actually 1" :) Do I need to redo this half? Thanks
Hello Ed, thanks for all these very instructional videos. I'm getting ready to build my first Photon, and I'll be using Depron since we don't have Adams board here in Brasil. Have you tried vinil instead of tape for the foam covering? I saw those car wrap sheets at Banggood's site and they look awesome. There is an article at Flite testes site about a Mini Arrow wing with this material, but without any follow up about how it flew and if it was a good choice.
Hello, good morning! Very good. Which type of tube used and measured? Thank you. I'm from Brazil. My greetings.
the 7in wing core is my go to wing. also make some biplanes
Hi I have one question would the 7 inch sing generate enough lift for a trainer? The ratio is 5 x the chord is the wingspan ( the chord in dues the 1 inch flaps
Can you make these in different airfoils by a specific formers inside the wing skin? Please cover this if you can.
Where do u get Ur carbon rods at? Went to big 5 and all they had was ones with the tails on them already. Do u just cut that off?
Not sure, but it's 3 clicks away at their main website, click "carton sealing tape" on the left, and you will see the rainbow of colors on the right. Click that and you will see all the choices.
Well done! Maybe a better glue gun and/or go pretty thin with the glue application. Only a thin bead is needed for the wing assembly. All the forces at hand are compression and shearing, so not much glue is needed. With practice you'll be turning 'em out by the dozen!
Excellent!