Thanks for making the video. What is the part that the expansion tank is screwed into called? I have seen a couple of DIY videos where they use it for the tank and the air release valve. Its some kind of 3/4 NPT Mounting Block. Thanks!
BTU conversion from Kw of electricity is roughly 3400 BTU = 1 Kw. If you have a 6,000 watt heater then you have about 20,000 BTUs. The number is either on the Mfgr's tag or it will certainly be stamped on the heating elements if you remove the cover to take a look.
Hey love your system! I want to run a similar setup myself! Have you needed to add a mixing valve at all? I wonder if you would get more efficiency? Great job love to see more videos of future projects!
Thanks! Trial and error is the key. I believe the only mixing valve is in the shower. I'm sure it could be more efficient, but my hopes are to eventually switch it to an outdoor burner once I have my house hooked up. Then I would heat both house and shop together (wood burner.)
I thought I understood your system the first time I watched the video but after watching it a few times I’m missing something or misunderstanding. With your reduced cold water coming in and teeing with a check valve on the right, that sends cold water through your floor when you are using hot water in your fixtures? And all your fixtures see reduced pressure on the hot water side correct? Thanks
my take is the system is running at 25 psi so the domestic hot water at the shower / sink is also at 25 psi instead of normal well pressure. (40 psi?) I think he mistakenly said it was flowing through the floor first. I see it as feeding the tank first.
I'm sorry this is so late. I haven't checked my channel for a while. :( So I have a main line coming from the house that is 3/4 inch pex and is at 40 PSI. That splits into a T and the cold water line then goes through the pressure reducer through the lines in the floor and then into the water heater (the other end goes to a shower, bathroom sink, and wash basin in the shop) thus reducing the hot water pressure. The problem I did have was when I fed the fixtures for the shower (where the mixing valve is). I had more pressure from the cold water line (the other end of the T) then hot so I ended up back feeding through the shower mixing valve and it would run without me turning it on. After adding another pressure reducer on the shower side of things (poor design) and that fixed the problem. The two sink faucets are still at the main pressure tank, pressure setting. This is the 3rd winter heating and it still works great!
You are correct. The system is running at 25 psi. The only exception is two cold water faucets and a hydrant (for washing cars) that are still at 40 psi. The main line does come in and go through the floor first and then it goes to the water heater. There is a check valve on the exit side of the water heater that prevents water from back feeding into the water heater. Hope this makes sense.
Good job. You helped a family in need! Thanks for taking the time to make your video
Going to try this in a few months. Thanks for documenting!
“Do I know what I’m talking about? Maybe about 25%” lmao I love it!
If your happy, I'm happy! Great job.
Question! You mentioned it's potable water. So you didn't use any antifreeze correct?
Thanks for making the video. What is the part that the expansion tank is screwed into called? I have seen a couple of DIY videos where they use it for the tank and the air release valve. Its some kind of 3/4 NPT Mounting Block. Thanks!
BTU conversion from Kw of electricity is roughly 3400 BTU = 1 Kw. If you have a 6,000 watt heater then you have about 20,000 BTUs. The number is either on the Mfgr's tag or it will certainly be stamped on the heating elements if you remove the cover to take a look.
Good to know ! Thanks!
Is the system mixed with potable water...like to a sink AND the radiant?
Hey love your system! I want to run a similar setup myself!
Have you needed to add a mixing valve at all? I wonder if you would get more efficiency?
Great job love to see more videos of future projects!
Thanks! Trial and error is the key. I believe the only mixing valve is in the shower. I'm sure it could be more efficient, but my hopes are to eventually switch it to an outdoor burner once I have my house hooked up. Then I would heat both house and shop together (wood burner.)
Can a propane hot water heater work on this system
We have oil at the present time but need to replace it
I have some friends that used propane on demand water heater. And it works fine!
I thought I understood your system the first time I watched the video but after watching it a few times I’m missing something or misunderstanding. With your reduced cold water coming in and teeing with a check valve on the right, that sends cold water through your floor when you are using hot water in your fixtures? And all your fixtures see reduced pressure on the hot water side correct? Thanks
my take is the system is running at 25 psi so the domestic hot water at the shower / sink is also at 25 psi instead of normal well pressure. (40 psi?) I think he mistakenly said it was flowing through the floor first. I see it as feeding the tank first.
I had the same question
I'm sorry this is so late. I haven't checked my channel for a while. :( So I have a main line coming from the house that is 3/4 inch pex and is at 40 PSI. That splits into a T and the cold water line then goes through the pressure reducer through the lines in the floor and then into the water heater (the other end goes to a shower, bathroom sink, and wash basin in the shop) thus reducing the hot water pressure. The problem I did have was when I fed the fixtures for the shower (where the mixing valve is). I had more pressure from the cold water line (the other end of the T) then hot so I ended up back feeding through the shower mixing valve and it would run without me turning it on. After adding another pressure reducer on the shower side of things (poor design) and that fixed the problem. The two sink faucets are still at the main pressure tank, pressure setting. This is the 3rd winter heating and it still works great!
You are correct. The system is running at 25 psi. The only exception is two cold water faucets and a hydrant (for washing cars) that are still at 40 psi. The main line does come in and go through the floor first and then it goes to the water heater. There is a check valve on the exit side of the water heater that prevents water from back feeding into the water heater. Hope this makes sense.