How to maintain your Desoldering tool | Hakko FR301 Deep Dive
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- The Hakko FR-301 is the best desoldering tool at its price point. This is how you keep it running like new.
For more information on repairs, diagnostics and to connect with me, please visit: / retrotechusa
Links to Tools -
Hakko FR 301: amzn.to/3XsvaBA
Stand for Hakko FR301: amzn.to/3kwKheT
Replacement Filter Pack: amzn.to/3kxHVfv
Parts/Components Tester: amzn.to/3ZSlORq
How to fix the FR-301 handle: • Hakko FR 301 Desolider...
#tools #retro #tech
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If you need any product links, please check the description. Also a question, what desoldering tool are you using?
Hi!!! I work at a arcade in North Carolina and I have some old color tubes that need some love. Please contact me! No one works on these anymore.
Great video on cleaning the FR-301! I only have three info bits to add:
1) It's rare, but I have had the desoldering tip get completely plugged to the point where neither extra heat or the cleaning tool included in the kit doesn't work to clear it. For those emergencies, Hakko sells a small hand drill and bit (B1302 Cleaning Drill) that work great for clearing the tip up.
2) You can help your desoldering tips last longer by cleaning them occasionally with Hakko's FS-100 Tip Cleaning Paste. One container of cleaning paste lasts years and costs less than one tip.
3) For that "deep down clean", I also like to soak a paper towel in isopropyl and then twist it around inside the transparent plastic pipe to give it that fresh-out-of-the-box feel.
whats the drill bit?
@@130jukeboxhero Hakko's part number for it is B1302 but any bit the size of the nozzle (ie 0.8mm) will do.
I use my PCB drill bits on my Proxxon mini drill press to clear the carbon from the Hakko Tips. Can even twist them by hand, but it takes longer.
Man, this is all great information. I am a real novice at using my soldering/desoldering equipment and videos like this help me and the retro community an awful lot. Thank you for producing this content.
Thank you for posting this video.
Thank you. Caught your segment on RetroRGBs 400th and knew I had to come check it out. Learned about servicing the back end which I had never thought about cleaning.
Great info! I have been using the Hakko for a year or so now and I only knew about cleaning the primary tip and the container. Learned a lot from this, thanks!
Thanks! Yeah, it took me a while to figure this out when I first got the tool .
Thank you for this tutorial. While I dont do heavy projects often, wife did get me one of these for my birthday last year since I hate desoldering so much. Wasnt sure how much cleaning I should do on a regular basis, so thanks for this video
Excellent video on this device. Using the FR-301 a lot. The only drawback is the weight ... so if you do desoldering for hours every day, the JBC (base unit separate from head) might be the better option. For 5 times the price of course. Though for the gun-shaped desoldering devices, the FR301 is the best. Also get the C1100 holder and not the one from the video. Also, if you do a lot of THT on e.g. PSU boards, I'd recommend getting the 1.6mm tip ... the 1mm that comes with the unit is often too small.
Awesome, thanks Steve. I finally upgraded from the ZD915 to the Hakko recently so this is great info
Great, I'm thinking you are going to love the FR301
@@RetroTechUSA So far so good. Although it hasn't had to tackle a big recap job yet
subscribed...my hakko lost vacuum today. The silicone diaphragm was in pieces and the clear tube was half choked with flux residue. Ordered parts from Hakko to repair.
thanks, you saved my day with this cleaning guide.
doesnt know about membrane cleaning.
now my fr works like new
Great info, Thanks Steve! I've been using mine for years and this is the first occasion I've cleaned the tube and the membrane. It was high time :).
Great quick-and-clean tutorial!
Steve, thank you for all advices
Thank you.i had a hard time a couple months ago locating maintenance tips on desoldering guns
Super timely video for me! I was just trying to use mine yesterday and was getting absolutely zero air flow. I always clean the nozzle and chamber, but I had never taken apart the back end for cleaning. In my case, one side of the plastic diaphragm (Hakko calls it the "B5023 Valve Plate") had actually broken and was plugging the hole. Annoying that I have to put my project on hold to swap that piece out, but awesome that Hakko makes basically every piece of this thing available to buy for fairly cheap.
Anyway, great video! Really helped me out.
favorited. good stuff to know, glad i haven't used mine yet. going ot have to get that holder and some filters
Thanks! Quick tip: you can keep your IPA in a small spray bottle (2oz or so) rather than dumping it on things from the original bottle.
This is exactly what I did. Bought some cheap mini spray bottles off Ebay & they work a treat!
It’s better to minimize the exposure to air. The spray bottle works great and you can soak a q-tip easily by putting it right up to the nozzle.
I rest mine in a Pyrex brownie pan ,better than any holder
Don't got a Hakko desoldering gun but I go Chinese knockoff station the Anesty ZD-915. They really make recapping a breeze. These same tips apply to these guns as well.
Good info!
Thanks for this!! Came here from RetroRGB. The "Parts/Components Tester" you linked isn't in stock anymore. Is there another you'd recommend?
Question for you if you dont mind: I got a brand new FR-301, and it doesn't seem to work as well as yours. Im working on NES boards with it, alot of the RAM chip solder just doesn't want to come up. Do you have any tips you can give me? I've tried several rounds with the FR-301, and had to end up using wick to remove most of the chips.
Would you still recommend the fr-301? Looking at buying one as I do quite a bit of board repair. While I can get by with a solder sucker, flux and solder wick. This would be a game changer for me. Not only in time but efficiency.
Awesome video, just got this tool yesterday. Havent used it yet but the nozzle came pre-clogged, wondering if this also was the case for anybody else
They prep the tip with some solder before shipping.
Hi Steve! Another awesome video! If you see this, would you have a link to that capacitor tester? Been wanting one for a while now, I have been getting into more in-depth repair work lately and may recap some crt's here in the future. I honestly just want to see how much out of spec, if at all, the capacitors I have been removing are at for curiosity's sake. I recently recapped the amp and mobo for some sound equipment that I could not part with, it works well now and wish I had the Hakko tool at that time. You inspired me to get one of these tools, and it is such a beast. I love it. Thanks again for keeping the CRT world alive.
A newer fluke meter will have that built in.
Interesting Steve. I never heard this tool before. But I like it bro. 8^)
Anthony...
Thanks Anthony!
Just placed an order to get a new shell because I got kind of tired of super gluing it back together.
nice
There's a good amount of solder collected on the metal pre-filter in the tube. Any tips on getting it out? I tried scraping, but it's tough and crusty.
hey i found a trash picked crt but its only green kinda like the gameboy i have played all my consels via s video and scart dont know if you have had the same issue as me but i would like to know whats happening with it
Hi I am very thankful for your awesome videos 🥰🥰
So I have Sony kx-21hg1 and I need to know is it good compared to pvm ?
Hello. Panasonic ag 510 fix vhs need information
All information
AG-1979 and AG-1980 for me.
So a common issue ive been having is the little tip gets clogged and does not get unclogged with that tool they provide. I've gone through 2 tips in a short period of time. Is there a better way to clean the tip?
Isn't that stand too light for the FR-301? Hakko sells C1100 for this device, unfortunately significantly more expensive.
i wonder if a sonic cleaner would clean off al that flux
For being so popular, this thing sure is finicky & requires a LOT of maintenance to keep working well. A pretty big pain
Sure those are Phillips screws? Being a Japanese product, chances are they are JIS. Get a set, moody makes some small ones made in usa that work well for electronics.
Would love to have one of these on my bench, but the price, jesus christ.
It would cost a kidney to import it to brazil.
Damn. It’s a very expensive tool.
maybe good in u.s.
in Israel v600$
Buy from Japan and use a 100v stepdown like I do. Much cheaper. In Australia these things are $800+
Laughing... make the video shorter.
Craw back in your hole.