Outstanding. I've been working on a similar solution for my Durst 1200, I was trying to replace the whole lamp house but now I think I will try an approach like yours!
I built a green/blue leds head some years ago then my son offered me a philips hue kit with 3 leds bulbs. I had only to replace the original bulb by a philips. Now I use my smartphone app to choose any color at any intensity. The big drawback of philips is that if you switch them off they make a reset... So I let it on and use a mechanical light blocking with a magnetic switch starting and stopping my timer...
Thank you so much for this video, I have Durst 3S Color, with condenser lenses, although I have them only for 13x18cm negative size. The system you showed here, would be great solution for me.
Hello, my idea in this video, and post in my website, was more about giving some tips and hints that could save time for those willing to implement something similar. It would be extremely difficult and risky to make a tutorial aimed to guide someone not initiated in those matters of electronics and programming. One must be able to understand and build up from the information that is already there. If that is not your case, the best solution would be to show the video and post to somebody in your city more acquainted with this type of things. There will certainly be improvisations and adaptations to be made and you need someone with time and local knowledge to do those.
No there are no white LEDs, only blue and green. You don't need standard filters for contrast adjustment. If you light up only blue LEDs you have maximum contrast and with only green you have minimum contrast. With combinations of blue and green you may have the medium contrast situation at your will. If I had to do it again I would include some red LEDs just to make the image brighter to my eyes. When the greens are on it is quite OK, but when blue is the prominent one the image becomes too dim. The red LEDs would do nothing for the paper but would help me in tasks like dodging and burning when I set up a high contrast combination (high blue and little or no green at all).
I didn't notice anything worse than with larger apertures. The entrance pupil for f22 for a 50mm lens is about 2,3 mm. I think that, for diffraction to become noticeable, this is quite large. I remember, when I studied Physics, that experiences to demonstrate diffraction used slits far smaller than that, openings and objects thin as a human hair. But I understand your concern because I also heard about deterioration due to diffraction, but never run across an in depth discussion, it is just mentioned. For longer focal lengths 80, 105 and 150, I am sure that this is not an issue as the hole gets even bigger.
congratulations for your work. I've an L1000, nice enlarger. you gave me strenght to start usung it again after 20 years
Outstanding. I've been working on a similar solution for my Durst 1200, I was trying to replace the whole lamp house but now I think I will try an approach like yours!
Excellent video (clear explanations), and GORGEOUS image. Bravo!
very nice~ thanks for sharing.
I built a green/blue leds head some years ago then my son offered me a philips hue kit with 3 leds bulbs. I had only to replace the original bulb by a philips. Now I use my smartphone app to choose any color at any intensity. The big drawback of philips is that if you switch them off they make a reset... So I let it on and use a mechanical light blocking with a magnetic switch starting and stopping my timer...
Great video, very few like this on youtube. The negative seems underexposed, right? Thanks for uploading it.
Thank you so much for this video, I have Durst 3S Color, with condenser lenses, although I have them only for 13x18cm negative size. The system you showed here, would be great solution for me.
This look great.. Is this project with arduino and led source something you could share or is it something you sell?
Hello, my idea in this video, and post in my website, was more about giving some tips and hints that could save time for those willing to implement something similar. It would be extremely difficult and risky to make a tutorial aimed to guide someone not initiated in those matters of electronics and programming. One must be able to understand and build up from the information that is already there. If that is not your case, the best solution would be to show the video and post to somebody in your city more acquainted with this type of things. There will certainly be improvisations and adaptations to be made and you need someone with time and local knowledge to do those.
Are there an white LED's in the array? If not, can you still use standard filters to adjust contrast with this blue/green LED head?
No there are no white LEDs, only blue and green. You don't need standard filters for contrast adjustment. If you light up only blue LEDs you have maximum contrast and with only green you have minimum contrast. With combinations of blue and green you may have the medium contrast situation at your will. If I had to do it again I would include some red LEDs just to make the image brighter to my eyes. When the greens are on it is quite OK, but when blue is the prominent one the image becomes too dim. The red LEDs would do nothing for the paper but would help me in tasks like dodging and burning when I set up a high contrast combination (high blue and little or no green at all).
But does not the lens perform a bit worse at the f22 because of defraction?
I didn't notice anything worse than with larger apertures. The entrance pupil for f22 for a 50mm lens is about 2,3 mm. I think that, for diffraction to become noticeable, this is quite large. I remember, when I studied Physics, that experiences to demonstrate diffraction used slits far smaller than that, openings and objects thin as a human hair. But I understand your concern because I also heard about deterioration due to diffraction, but never run across an in depth discussion, it is just mentioned. For longer focal lengths 80, 105 and 150, I am sure that this is not an issue as the hole gets even bigger.