at 4:35 you are removing the 02 sensor wiring from the shroud. Were the plastic connector tabs that go into the shroud broken? how did you just pull it straight out of the shroud? It took me longer than it should to figure out how to disconnect that O2 wiring harness from the shroud, it would not pull, tug or twist off and I did not want to break it LOL!! the FSM instructions for radiator replacement made NO mention on how to remove that wire and harness connector from the shroud that i could find... it just says to pull the radiator out WITH the shroud and fan still attached! I ended up disconnecting the shroud from the radiator, carefully removing the old radiator with the shroud still in the engine compartment, and then i found access to the two plastic tabs from the 02 sensor harness behind there that I could pinch with a needlenose plier and then it came out so that i could remove the shroud (after disconnecting the fan wiring plug) so if somebody comes along viewing this and has an issue getting the 02 sensor harness free that is how i got it out... I suppose it will just snap back into the shroud secure once i get the new radiator installed i betcha the FSM instructs to remove the old radiator WITH the shroud still attached and put onto the new radiator BEFORE putting it all back into the engine compartment so that you limit any damages to the new radiator with that big metal piece of heat shield on the bottom corner of the shroud, its sharp! i nicked my wrist on the edge of it trying to wiggle it free LOL
Wow sounds like you struggled a little, but yeah mine is so worn out it just pops out. Usually a pry tool of some sort pops those out. Don't be afraid of breaking those, that's what zip ties are for haha
Thanks for adding this comment. It seems obvious in retrospect to just loosen the shroud to access the clip from behind, but I did not consider it until seeing the comment. Was too focused on just bringing the whole thing out together. Also thanks for the well presented vid @AutoFixYT
This video has given me confidence in changing the radi' in my father's corolla (laoned to me for now) as it keeps evaporating the coolant and leaving itself dry! Going to do research to see where else the "leak" could be, concrete is always dry after sitting so i suspect evaporation is the culprit. But dang you made it so clear to see the steps, thank you for sharing :)
Thank you! However, before you replace an entire radiator for potentially no reason, check the radiator cap. If coolant evaporates, that's where it comes out of. Usually with that comes white, dried up, crusty looking buildup around the radiator cap. As they get old they cannot hold pressure anymore and start leaking. In some cases the coolant can come out as liquid, but in most cases it will just be steam. And there's your evaporated coolant. But of course, the radiator could also be a culprit. You want to also check the coolant hoses, both upper and lower. Make sure they are dry and don't have crusty buildup where they connect to the engine or the radiator. Those, however, wpuld cause an actual leak, it won't let coolant evaporate. The water pump can also be a source for a leak, as well as the heater hoses. Sometimes the heater core, located inside the dash, but in the case of that you'd smell it inside the car and you'd have a wet carpet. One last culprit could be the head gasket. If you see no leaks at all, you check the radiator cap and it's good, you even replace it, and coolant just dissapears, often it comes down to the head gasket, unfortunately. You can have a shop professionally tested, but if you have a spark plug socket you can pull the plugs and do a brief u soection yourself. If a plug has a lot of white buildup on the electrodes or is very clean and others are not, that cylinder is burning coolant. A shop should also be able to perform a leakdown test, as well as test the coolant for combustion gasses to see if there is contamination between the two. I assume your oil looks ok? Sometimes coolant can go down because it's actually getting into the engine oil through a bad head gasket and mixing with that, which is actually just as bad. It ruins the oil and can ruin your engine. If that's the case, you will see that your oil looks like a chocolate milkshake I stead of just oil. Hope this helps!
Hahaha I fought with that hose so much when I did my water pump and timing belt several years ago.... It was a nightmare. One day I will make a video on that, I promise lol
It's the short one behind the water pump but it should definitely NOT be bulgy hahaha that means it's weak and can't hold pressure. Needs to be replaced before it bursts. Mine was also somewhat expanded when I replaced it. Another reason why I did.
Good to see you still working on the Corolla man 💪🏻, I just followed your dashboard and gauge cluster videos to replace the lights on my 97. Any chance you could do a video covering some of the interior noise/rattle and how to minimize it? Don't get me wrong, mine runs like butter but it can get a bit noisy at times, especially on the steering wheel and door lock knob :P
Thanks! I'm glad the video helped out! As for the rattling noise... That's just something that you'll have to deal with when using a car like this. There's nothing you can do to get rid of it. Mine rattles in several different places, mostly from my aftermarket head unit that I installed. It's super loud at certain RPMs but mostly when the car is warming up. After that it stops. I got used to it haha
@@AutoFixYT have you replaced any of the engine mounts on the Corolla? i have had some severe cold mornings start vibes for a few years that i am replacing the mounts and they all had varying degrees of split rubber. at least i am thinking that is what the vibes are on the passenger side IDK LOL... the mounts are not inexpensive, especially that passenger side one, and its been said that OEM is the only way to go for this part for quality sake if nothing else
@@efil4kizum yes I've replaced all 4. 1AAuto.com I think has a kit with all 4 for a good deal. For motor mounts you don't have to go OEM. Not worth it. It's just rubber in a metal sleeve. Nothing fancy. They don't last forever regardless of what you buy so you might as well save money.
@@AutoFixYT you wouldn't have a video of how you did those mounts would you? the tricky one is the rear one near the driver side firewall. it came out easy after removing the subframe lol but may pose a challenge putting it back in properly since it was so long ago when it was removed
Hey man you’re the only TH-camr I know who actively reads and responds to comments, I am about to replace my radiator soon because it was spraying all over the exhaust head shield and causing white smoke to come out of the hood (right after I got my bumper and hood resprayed ) but I wanted to ask what headers you have? Thank you man
Thanks! Yeah the channel is still small enough to where I can keep up with comments haha. I have a full DNA Motoring exhaust. Headers and cat-back. You can find it on eBay or Amazon
Thanks! If you wanna wash it, cover your distributor with a plastic bag and the rest is good to go, just make sure you don't use a lot of pressure. A hose at most, not a pressure washer. Use degreaser to loosen up the dirt and grime and a hard brush to agitate and scrub. Then hose it off.
i just received the new radiator from RockAuto (denso brand) this video looks fairly straight forward for replacement... this will be a bit different on my car since its AT and has the cooler hoses to the transmission, i probably should replace those hoses if possible?
Yeah it's an easy job. And the only extra thing you have is the two hoses like you said which are held one with hose clamps. No need to replace the hoses unless they are in poor condition, same with the clamps. Depending on how much ATF you loose, don't forget to top it off or at least check the level of the trans after you're done. To do that you want to be on a flat level surface, engine and trans at operating temp, leave the engine running in park or neutral, and if possible, run it through all the gears first (all drive gears and reverse, if possible), then check it on the dip stick.
@@AutoFixYT ? poor condition meaning rock hard rubber like that little stubby water pump hose was? that was a challenge cutting that in half yesterday in the cold, and now the water pump assembly does not want to come out smoothly unless i can get the rusted pulley bolts off the FSM said to fully remove the passenger engine mount to remove the water pump... BUT it also said to take the radiator cooling fan off as well to remove the water pump, which i did not understand so i left the fan on until i have to remove the radiator
@@efil4kizum Yeah if they're rock hard then replace them. And you definitely don't need to remove the rad fan for the water pump. Idk why it says that. But the WP pulley does need to come off for sure.
@@AutoFixYT those must be fairly newish lower radiator rubber mounts on your car? one of mine on the driver side was totally roasted with rust and crumbled when taken out, the rubber must've gotten pinched a long time ago when the radiator was last removed for the RMS leak and the roadsalt over the years got inside the bottom area of the radiator and rotted it out so bad that I had to get a new one lol
The jdm replica ones are pretty decent you just have to drill the top mounting holes closest to the grille to a spotter form so they fit like OEM. Either that or order genuine ones for $800 lol I own both
Do the corolla and celica have the same exact radiator? I'm buying a corolla tomorrow and it needs a radiator and I was just gonna swap my celica one in if possible
funny thing when I got my '96 Corolla, my radiator was the first thing to get replaced cause it kinda blew up on the way home at night lol it still ran & drove but overheated like crazy so of course I went to RockAuto & got a radiator for $54 including new hoses (switched to red silicone hoses) & a cap
Nice! Somehow this radiator has never needed to be replaced until now. I do believe this was the original one from 1995, and lasted me 350k miles which is impressive.
My 96 has the original radiator and 137k hard city miles on it. It's weeping pink crusty coolant at the bottom so I am looking what denso Brand or another brand is best for longevity
Denso is OEM and will outperform anything else. If you want to spend the money, I recommend it. If not, any other aftermarket one will do just fine. Consider getting a new cap as well if it doesn't come with one, and definitely examine the top and bottom hoses to make sure they can be reused.
@@AutoFixYT didn't know they made aftermarket radiators for a 7th gen corolla 👀 I want to try to find a all aluminum radiator but idk if that does anything better than a factory radiator lol
Yup many brands make radiators for this car. And no it won't do much more at all if you drive it normally or even a little hard. If you track the car or do super intensive driving or in severe conditions (heat) then yes it might help keep the engine cool.
Quick question. Does your overflow reservoir have a cap with 2 fittings on it? I have a hose on one side that goes to the radiator, and the otherside is just a short little piece of hose that it looks like someone cut.
doesnt the corolla and celica share the same parts? Ive been looking for rads, and air intake hoses for my celica and oem parts and parts stores dont have any available. Is it possible i can use corolla parts on the celica? (My celica also uses the 7AFE)
That tube that connects radiator with reservoar or idk how its called. Should it freeflow or theres some valve or something in that plastic cap? I had blockage in that little hose connecting the two i did some cleaning and de clogging but water still doesnt freely through that plastic cap. Is it okay becausw it works under high pressure or i should change the cap? (Im not talking about metal cap on top of the radiator)
There should be a free flow from one end of that hose to the other, even through the plastic cap. That tank is called the overflow tank. If there's a blockage, replace what needs to be replaced or unclog the blockage.
It will fit on both but don't use it on the lower hose. You should use it on the top hose because the lower hose is returning the cooled coolant from the radiator to the engine, so all that's telling you is the temperature of the cooled coolant. The top hose is what feeds the ratatouille from the head, so that's the hottest point in the cooling system. This will get you the best reading as to how hot the coolant is getting in the engine before it gets processed by the radiator. That's what you really want to know.
@AutoFixYT ok well I had a car I swapped out the radiator and now it keeps getting new dented fins, I can't see anything hitting it and Noone Is working on anything so small just kinda lost lol
These cars all come with Catalytic converters. In the US, every car produced after 1975 has at least one Catalytic converter. My Corolla no longer has the original one but I do have an aftermerket one on it. Doesn't worn great but it does do something. I had no cat on it for a couple years but it smelt so bad I couldn't do it anymore. It was and still is a daily driver.
at 4:35 you are removing the 02 sensor wiring from the shroud. Were the plastic connector tabs that go into the shroud broken? how did you just pull it straight out of the shroud? It took me longer than it should to figure out how to disconnect that O2 wiring harness from the shroud, it would not pull, tug or twist off and I did not want to break it LOL!! the FSM instructions for radiator replacement made NO mention on how to remove that wire and harness connector from the shroud that i could find... it just says to pull the radiator out WITH the shroud and fan still attached!
I ended up disconnecting the shroud from the radiator, carefully removing the old radiator with the shroud still in the engine compartment, and then i found access to the two plastic tabs from the 02 sensor harness behind there that I could pinch with a needlenose plier and then it came out so that i could remove the shroud (after disconnecting the fan wiring plug)
so if somebody comes along viewing this and has an issue getting the 02 sensor harness free that is how i got it out... I suppose it will just snap back into the shroud secure once i get the new radiator installed
i betcha the FSM instructs to remove the old radiator WITH the shroud still attached and put onto the new radiator BEFORE putting it all back into the engine compartment so that you limit any damages to the new radiator with that big metal piece of heat shield on the bottom corner of the shroud, its sharp! i nicked my wrist on the edge of it trying to wiggle it free LOL
Wow sounds like you struggled a little, but yeah mine is so worn out it just pops out. Usually a pry tool of some sort pops those out. Don't be afraid of breaking those, that's what zip ties are for haha
Thanks for adding this comment. It seems obvious in retrospect to just loosen the shroud to access the clip from behind, but I did not consider it until seeing the comment. Was too focused on just bringing the whole thing out together.
Also thanks for the well presented vid @AutoFixYT
I've done a job like this on a Corolla 2001 in 2017, working very well until today! Very good video as always!
Awesome! Thanks!
This video has given me confidence in changing the radi' in my father's corolla (laoned to me for now) as it keeps evaporating the coolant and leaving itself dry! Going to do research to see where else the "leak" could be, concrete is always dry after sitting so i suspect evaporation is the culprit. But dang you made it so clear to see the steps, thank you for sharing :)
Thank you! However, before you replace an entire radiator for potentially no reason, check the radiator cap. If coolant evaporates, that's where it comes out of. Usually with that comes white, dried up, crusty looking buildup around the radiator cap. As they get old they cannot hold pressure anymore and start leaking. In some cases the coolant can come out as liquid, but in most cases it will just be steam. And there's your evaporated coolant. But of course, the radiator could also be a culprit.
You want to also check the coolant hoses, both upper and lower. Make sure they are dry and don't have crusty buildup where they connect to the engine or the radiator. Those, however, wpuld cause an actual leak, it won't let coolant evaporate. The water pump can also be a source for a leak, as well as the heater hoses. Sometimes the heater core, located inside the dash, but in the case of that you'd smell it inside the car and you'd have a wet carpet.
One last culprit could be the head gasket. If you see no leaks at all, you check the radiator cap and it's good, you even replace it, and coolant just dissapears, often it comes down to the head gasket, unfortunately. You can have a shop professionally tested, but if you have a spark plug socket you can pull the plugs and do a brief u soection yourself. If a plug has a lot of white buildup on the electrodes or is very clean and others are not, that cylinder is burning coolant.
A shop should also be able to perform a leakdown test, as well as test the coolant for combustion gasses to see if there is contamination between the two.
I assume your oil looks ok? Sometimes coolant can go down because it's actually getting into the engine oil through a bad head gasket and mixing with that, which is actually just as bad. It ruins the oil and can ruin your engine. If that's the case, you will see that your oil looks like a chocolate milkshake I stead of just oil.
Hope this helps!
I have a Toyota Corolla 1997 just got a new radiator did it all by my self thank you
Awesome!
Thanks, great details here. Just got my radiator replaced.
Great job.
The right way about the fan is to disassemble/assemble in when the radiator is outside of the car.
Thank you!
In this case the fan can be easily removed when it's still in the car and it makes the radiator removal much easier that way
I shall try it both ways lol the old Corolla is getting a new radiator after 27yrs!
GOOODTIMING! IM ABOUT TO DO MINE TOMORROW. Thank you man! 🔥🔥🔥
Awesome! Thanks!
Nice video man, I appreciate it. I have a new topic for you, change the bypass hose, the one in the water pump
Hahaha I fought with that hose so much when I did my water pump and timing belt several years ago.... It was a nightmare. One day I will make a video on that, I promise lol
Is the bypass hose the short bulgy one behind the water pump or is it buried behind in the timing belt area?
It's the short one behind the water pump but it should definitely NOT be bulgy hahaha that means it's weak and can't hold pressure. Needs to be replaced before it bursts. Mine was also somewhat expanded when I replaced it. Another reason why I did.
Good to see you still working on the Corolla man 💪🏻, I just followed your dashboard and gauge cluster videos to replace the lights on my 97. Any chance you could do a video covering some of the interior noise/rattle and how to minimize it? Don't get me wrong, mine runs like butter but it can get a bit noisy at times, especially on the steering wheel and door lock knob :P
Thanks! I'm glad the video helped out!
As for the rattling noise... That's just something that you'll have to deal with when using a car like this. There's nothing you can do to get rid of it. Mine rattles in several different places, mostly from my aftermarket head unit that I installed. It's super loud at certain RPMs but mostly when the car is warming up. After that it stops. I got used to it haha
@@AutoFixYT have you replaced any of the engine mounts on the Corolla?
i have had some severe cold mornings start vibes for a few years that i am replacing the mounts and they all had varying degrees of split rubber. at least i am thinking that is what the vibes are on the passenger side IDK LOL... the mounts are not inexpensive, especially that passenger side one, and its been said that OEM is the only way to go for this part for quality sake if nothing else
@@efil4kizum yes I've replaced all 4. 1AAuto.com I think has a kit with all 4 for a good deal. For motor mounts you don't have to go OEM. Not worth it. It's just rubber in a metal sleeve. Nothing fancy. They don't last forever regardless of what you buy so you might as well save money.
@@AutoFixYT you wouldn't have a video of how you did those mounts would you? the tricky one is the rear one near the driver side firewall. it came out easy after removing the subframe lol but may pose a challenge putting it back in properly since it was so long ago when it was removed
@@efil4kizum no I don't have a video unfortunately, sorry
Came from your comment you made on the red raptor in the snow exhaust. New sub 🫡
Wow that was along time ago haha I remember that! Thank you!!
Hey man you’re the only TH-camr I know who actively reads and responds to comments, I am about to replace my radiator soon because it was spraying all over the exhaust head shield and causing white smoke to come out of the hood (right after I got my bumper and hood resprayed ) but I wanted to ask what headers you have? Thank you man
Thanks! Yeah the channel is still small enough to where I can keep up with comments haha.
I have a full DNA Motoring exhaust. Headers and cat-back. You can find it on eBay or Amazon
@@AutoFixYT Okay cool thank you. I have the DNA motoring catback right now and I have a DNA drop in filter on the way. I will look into the headers!
Totally worth it!
Nice job 👍
Any thoughts on engine bay detail?
Thanks!
If you wanna wash it, cover your distributor with a plastic bag and the rest is good to go, just make sure you don't use a lot of pressure. A hose at most, not a pressure washer. Use degreaser to loosen up the dirt and grime and a hard brush to agitate and scrub. Then hose it off.
Nice work man
Thank you!
i just received the new radiator from RockAuto (denso brand) this video looks fairly straight forward for replacement... this will be a bit different on my car since its AT and has the cooler hoses to the transmission, i probably should replace those hoses if possible?
Yeah it's an easy job. And the only extra thing you have is the two hoses like you said which are held one with hose clamps. No need to replace the hoses unless they are in poor condition, same with the clamps. Depending on how much ATF you loose, don't forget to top it off or at least check the level of the trans after you're done. To do that you want to be on a flat level surface, engine and trans at operating temp, leave the engine running in park or neutral, and if possible, run it through all the gears first (all drive gears and reverse, if possible), then check it on the dip stick.
@@AutoFixYT ? poor condition meaning rock hard rubber like that little stubby water pump hose was? that was a challenge cutting that in half yesterday in the cold, and now the water pump assembly does not want to come out smoothly unless i can get the rusted pulley bolts off
the FSM said to fully remove the passenger engine mount to remove the water pump... BUT it also said to take the radiator cooling fan off as well to remove the water pump, which i did not understand so i left the fan on until i have to remove the radiator
@@efil4kizum Yeah if they're rock hard then replace them. And you definitely don't need to remove the rad fan for the water pump. Idk why it says that. But the WP pulley does need to come off for sure.
@@AutoFixYT water pump pulley woes!
th-cam.com/video/7zYz05sHz5A/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoFixYT those must be fairly newish lower radiator rubber mounts on your car? one of mine on the driver side was totally roasted with rust and crumbled when taken out, the rubber must've gotten pinched a long time ago when the radiator was last removed for the RMS leak and the roadsalt over the years got inside the bottom area of the radiator and rotted it out so bad that I had to get a new one lol
What headlights are those? I keep seeing JDM style that require a rewire for H4 bulbs or poor reviews regarding build quality.
I will be making an in depth video about these. They are custom built by me lol I modified them quite a bit. Nobody sells them like this
The jdm replica ones are pretty decent you just have to drill the top mounting holes closest to the grille to a spotter form so they fit like OEM. Either that or order genuine ones for $800 lol I own both
Do the corolla and celica have the same exact radiator? I'm buying a corolla tomorrow and it needs a radiator and I was just gonna swap my celica one in if possible
I think so. But if you have it, it's worth trying because why not haha
funny thing when I got my '96 Corolla, my radiator was the first thing to get replaced cause it kinda blew up on the way home at night lol
it still ran & drove but overheated like crazy so of course I went to RockAuto & got a radiator for $54 including new hoses (switched to red silicone hoses) & a cap
Nice! Somehow this radiator has never needed to be replaced until now. I do believe this was the original one from 1995, and lasted me 350k miles which is impressive.
My 96 has the original radiator and 137k hard city miles on it. It's weeping pink crusty coolant at the bottom so I am looking what denso Brand or another brand is best for longevity
Denso is OEM and will outperform anything else. If you want to spend the money, I recommend it. If not, any other aftermarket one will do just fine. Consider getting a new cap as well if it doesn't come with one, and definitely examine the top and bottom hoses to make sure they can be reused.
@@AutoFixYT didn't know they made aftermarket radiators for a 7th gen corolla 👀
I want to try to find a all aluminum radiator but idk if that does anything better than a factory radiator lol
Yup many brands make radiators for this car. And no it won't do much more at all if you drive it normally or even a little hard. If you track the car or do super intensive driving or in severe conditions (heat) then yes it might help keep the engine cool.
Quick question. Does your overflow reservoir have a cap with 2 fittings on it? I have a hose on one side that goes to the radiator, and the otherside is just a short little piece of hose that it looks like someone cut.
The one that looks like it's cut is fir the coolant to dump out of in case it actually overflows. That's normal.
doesnt the corolla and celica share the same parts? Ive been looking for rads, and air intake hoses for my celica and oem parts and parts stores dont have any available. Is it possible i can use corolla parts on the celica? (My celica also uses the 7AFE)
Yes if it has the 7A FE it will have the same exact setup as a Corolla
That tube that connects radiator with reservoar or idk how its called. Should it freeflow or theres some valve or something in that plastic cap?
I had blockage in that little hose connecting the two i did some cleaning and de clogging but water still doesnt freely through that plastic cap. Is it okay becausw it works under high pressure or i should change the cap?
(Im not talking about metal cap on top of the radiator)
There should be a free flow from one end of that hose to the other, even through the plastic cap. That tank is called the overflow tank. If there's a blockage, replace what needs to be replaced or unclog the blockage.
@@AutoFixYT thanks man! Wasnt sure if its working under high pressure or something so wanted to check it out. Ill try to unclog it. Thanks again
Could you use the water temp adapter on either hose ?
It will fit on both but don't use it on the lower hose. You should use it on the top hose because the lower hose is returning the cooled coolant from the radiator to the engine, so all that's telling you is the temperature of the cooled coolant. The top hose is what feeds the ratatouille from the head, so that's the hottest point in the cooling system. This will get you the best reading as to how hot the coolant is getting in the engine before it gets processed by the radiator. That's what you really want to know.
Mines is auto what do I do about the lines for transmission?
Disconnect the hoses from the old one, and put them back on the new one. Make sure the hose clamps are good. If they're not, replace them.
Your oil pressure sensor wire harness were gone?
It broke lol I have to get a new pigtail for it
@@AutoFixYT yeah I also need to replace it and it came together with the new sensor, this sensor always leaking overtime.
@@zalspec7301Mine doesn't leak, I broke the wire when I replaced my alternator because I didn't realize it was attached to it lol
What causes those dents on the radiator on the inside?
People working on the car over time and hitting the fins.
@AutoFixYT ok well I had a car I swapped out the radiator and now it keeps getting new dented fins, I can't see anything hitting it and Noone Is working on anything so small just kinda lost lol
@@stephensherwin1530 Could it be debris from the road? Haha that or animals climbing in at night
Do you have a catalytic converter on it?
AE100 EE100 AE101 and similar models don't have catalytic converter as much as i know
These cars all come with Catalytic converters. In the US, every car produced after 1975 has at least one Catalytic converter.
My Corolla no longer has the original one but I do have an aftermerket one on it. Doesn't worn great but it does do something.
I had no cat on it for a couple years but it smelt so bad I couldn't do it anymore. It was and still is a daily driver.
I think u should use fresh coolant
I did, and I always recommend that. But if the coolant is already new and you can collect it in a clean container it's on to reuse
@@AutoFixYT thats good i thought that the coolant is old and because of bad radiator coolant is not safe to reuse.
Yeah I said in the vidoe I'm using universal coolant, and then you can see me pouting it out of the bottle
@@AutoFixYT i watch ur videos cuz i have the same engine in my Corolla. Can u help me in distributor ignition timing ?
I can try haha. What's your issue? These distributors are not adjustable
why univesal? why not toyota red? You don't eve have to buy it from dealer.
That's just what I had on hand