The advanced sequencer is quite useful. Always amazing to see the advances in NINA after I stay with a full release version for a "long" time. Now, where is my "Avoid Chimney" instruction? I'll check the nightly builds...probably in there by now.
GREAT Tutorial on the advanced sequencer in NINA James. I too at first was intimidated by it but a couple of weeks ago, I decided to just jump in and learn how to swim. At first, I was bobbing up and down in the waters of NINA (even gasping for air) but with more and more practice, I am now beginning to swim freely and am glad I took the plunge.
Thanks, Pat. When something works, I hate to switch it out. But I do like the capabilities of the Advanced Sequencer. The drag and drop graphical interface is quite well designed.
Absolutely perfect and awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to do this. About to make the switch from APT to NINA in 2 days (all clouds for at least the last month) I can't wait!!!
I know the feeling. I enjoyed APT and it was difficult to make the switch to NINA. But, at that time, APT didn't have true autofocus, so that prodded me to switch to NINA. I'm glad I did and won't go back. The advanced sequencer I discuss in this video is really powerful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, Joe. Agree. It’s really hard to find anything to complain about. I wonder how it has cut into software like SGP. It took me a while to convert over from APT, but the hands-off autofocus just made too much sense. Don’t think I’ll go back to APT even though they’ve got their own autofocus routine now.
I’m late to party with the Advanced Sequencer (when something works, I don’t like to change if I can help it), but it sure helps deal with the more complicated imaging scenarios we sometimes come across. I was an APT user but have become a NINA convert. Jump in, the water’s fine!
Hey James. Fantastic video. I am trying this out for the first time hopefully tonight. I put the Meridian Flip under the Global Triggers to see if that works so I never have to worry about it. Cheers Kurt
Yes. That's a very good approach. I'm liking the Adv Sequencer. One thing I've found is that you can make changes on the fly while the sequencer is running (couldn't do that with APT). I'm also seeing some inefficiencies in the way NINA normally does things that can be optimized with the Adv Sequencer (like stopping guiding before slewing to a new target and performing an autofocus. Just do all that stuff then start guiding again). Enjoy!
Thanks James. I’ve updated but not really got to grips with the advanced sequencer yet. This explanation really helped. I must get round to doing a custom horizon for my location although there’s only one small and very low obstruction for me. I like the idea that you can pick up targets at given altitudes then follow until below another altitude. Maximises time when they’re in optimum position. Then move to next target etc. Have a great Christmas and best wishes for 2022.
Give it a shot, John. Lots of good features. But lots of overkill, too, unless you need those features. I’ll probably just use it from now on even for simple sessions. Have a great Christmas!
Hi James great video. Have you though of using the above and below horizon feature? You can add offsets such as 5 mins for example to add some safety. Then you don’t have to work out the time when the chimney will be in the way. You could do a solve and centre before you start your guiding and acquisition again when the object comes out from behind the chimney. . Then over multiple nights you don’t have to keep adjusting the time that the object will be behind the chimney.
Thanks Matt. So many useful options and tweaks! I'm not sure that would work for a vertical line like the chimney. NINA is looking at the center of the image to assess its angle above or below a horizon/altitude line (rather than azimuth angle to the left or right of a vertical edge). In this scenario, my guiding and/or image are affected when the chimney line enters the FoV, but the center of the image is still over the lower roof line to the left of the chimney. So, I've got to account for the edge of my FoV rather than just the center. Not so bad for a large focal length (small diameter FoV), quite a bit worse for a short focal length (large diameter FoV). Thanks for watching!
Hi James. Thanks for another great video. Your explanations are always spot-on for my learning style, so I really appreciate your efforts. I have been putting off using the advanced sequencer despite the fact that it looks like it would really help with mosaics (where I break each panel into 2 or more different times in the same night). Timing (always a pain when dithering) seems cleaner with the advanced sequencer. I need to figure out how to load RA/DEC from the NINA framing assistant for each panel. It is probably very simple but I just need to fiddle with it. I will have plenty not time since we probably won't have clear skies for a couple of weeks. Bob
I waited to switch to the Advanced Sequencer as long as I could! It was either that or take out the neighbor’s chimney with a well-placed bazooka shot. Fewer issues with the HOA if I learn the Advanced Sequencer, I guess. But not as fun. I’ve got a list of things to do with my week-long cloud cover as well. Sleep would be good. My “Trust but verify” mindset doesn’t pair well with learning new AP automation methods. Go ahead and jump in, Bob. It meshes well with engineers’ “deconstruct, then apply” approach.
@@Aero19612 not yet, but I like the idea that you can stop imaging on a target at a specific time and altitude location. I wish we could do that with the simple sequencer. I may have to try it, just don't want to screw up an advance sequence the first time while getting some sleep and find out I lost a imaging because I messed up. So I guess an all-nighter is needed for my first time 🙂
Yep. Had a couple of "wake up every 2 hours" nights. Plus, I had my EQ6-R stop tracking a couple of nights (did I mention that?). Not the sequencer's fault. Maybe dew or damaged insulation on USB cable. I'm comfortable with the sequencer now. Got some cloudy weather ahead - - time to get that mini PC up and running to see if I can eliminate the looong USB cable back to the house.
Thanks for this great advanced sequencer tutorial. Kinda reminds me to blockly, which is a comparable instructions and logic based block scheme often used in home automation. Now, regardless the wonderful and powerful concept that lays behind sequencers for nightsky photography: how do you cope with that fact that the tiniest spray of unexpected rain will have the potential to basically destroy a five digit equipment??
Hadn't heard of Blockly. Sounds very similar. The Advanced Sequencer is very well organized. I really like it. As for rain...Well, if there's a hint of rain in the forecast, I don't set the equipment outside. I often go outside in the morning to find the exposed equipment dripping with dew. And then there was the time I forgot to turn off the automatic sprinkler system. That was bad. Everything survived.
James. I'm curious if you're still using the digital angle gauge for setting your camera rotation? I know you said you don't have a rotator at one point in the video. You can still "attach" or "connect" to the rotator equipment during setup. When you do connect to one, and don't have a motorized rotator, NINA will assume YOU are the rotator. At the beginning of the plate solving sequence NINA will prompt you to adjust the rotation of the camera some value of degrees either clockwise or counter clockwise. So, set your rotation on the target and let the plate solving tell you how close you are. You can adjust the tolerance for rotation in the NINA options->plate solving menu. I have mine set to 1 degree... you can of course go less but it does get tedious depending on how good you are at hitting the rotation spot. Try it out and see if you like it... you can leave the digital angle gauge behind if you do!
Yeah, I assumed that’s how that worked. Funny, I use the angle gauge so that I don’t have to do the manual rotator bit with NINA. It’s a cool feature, but I would much rather orient the camera in a well lit room during the day, then attach the cables in its rotated position than take my laptop outside and do this in the dark. Sounds like you’re having a good experience with it though. Who knows, I may see the light and the error of my ways! Thanks for the suggestion and input! Keeps me on my toes.
@@Aero19612 Funny.. I didn't think of that aspect. I use a phone app to check my level. It also has an angle gauge feature. Setting things up inside would definitely be useful (I'm in the east and it's COLD this time of year after dark!). I just wanted to point out the NINA feature in case you weren't aware of it.
Absolutely! Always welcome the “why are you doing it that way?” question. That’s how “I” discovered NINA in the first place: viewers told me about it! I caved. And I’m ok with that. Keep it up
Another excellent video James!!.. May I ask how you attached the angle gauge to the back of the camera? What was the reference for zero angle? Thanks and stay safe and healthy!
The gauge was resting on the flat of a USB cable that was plugged into the back of the camera (I need a better “shelf” than that. I’ll have to come up with some sort of clamp-on fixture). I have an older video where I introduce that gauge and talk about orientation. I set the angle based on Stellarium. When the “ASI 1600MM” writing on the back of the camera is vertical, that corresponds to a 0 deg angle in Stellarium. Rotate the camera clockwise for + angles. Thanks for watching, Diego!
Thought my mount was PA in NINA (< 1 degree fro both), but when I slew to coordinates, the camera is way off; I did get a warning it didn't slew far enough or something, to somehow change slew rate? but that warning went away when I next PA; what could be wrong? Used an L bracket for the camera, but that shouldn't be a problem
There can be many causes. A couple of things to verify: (1) make sure there are no cables that are getting tangled and preventing the motion of the mount and (2) make sure the RA and DEC clutches are tight. I've had situations where I slew to a target, but the mount doesn't move (like your problem). Turns out, the motors were moving, but the clutch was slipping. I took the clutch lever off and pulled out the "button" that contacts the RA worm wheel and cleaned off the grease. No problems since. Good luck!
It's resting on the flat of a USB cable. I need a better technique for attaching it to the camera though. The USB flat isn't that flat and permits some error.
You can. There's a setting in PHD2 (I think) that says "stop guiding when slewing" then PHD2 will resume guiding after the slew. There's no need to stop guiding if "Park Scope" is the next command. When I have a multi-target imaging night, I stop slewing before switching to the next target just so NINA won't waste time restarting guiding when my next step is to stop guiding and perform an autofocus. Thanks for watching, Wayne!
James, question if I may. I am getting pinched looking stars from my OAG. I have tried almost everything with no success. Do you have any experience with this issue? One thread said to move the stalk but did not say what direction. Thanks for your time and videos.
Hi Anthony. A couple of thoughts. First, remember that all is not lost, even with pinched stars when we're talking about guide stars. PHD2 is only interested in the centroid of light and isn't that sensitive to star shape (round vs oval vs V-shaped). Ok. Now let's try to get better looking stars! The OAG is looking at the outer perimeter of the light cone and will therefore see the worst of a non-flat field even though your stars in the corners of you imaging camera subs look pretty good. So, you could be dealing with a non-flat field (no field flattener or not quite correct backfocus) or maybe image tilt (can you rotate the OAG 90 deg). The comment about moving the stalk is probably meant to move the OAG prism toward the optical axis so that you see less effects of a non flat field. Potential problem is that the stalk can cause more of a shadow or block light to the imaging sensor altogether. If you're not seeing any shadow at all in your images, then you have some room to spare and can move the stalk toward the center. Hope that helps some! Good luck
Well, it can do that for a standard horizon. Use this instruction to image until the target drops below the horizon: "Loop While Altitude Above Horizon" And use "Wait Until Above Horizon" to start imaging once the target rises above the backyard horizon. These instructions work for most typical cases. My chimney problem is a bit different. I could use the "Loop While..." and when the chimney horizon jumps up, imaging will stop. I could also use "Wait until..." to resume once I'm beyond the chimney. The problem is that these instructions use the center of the field of view to make the assessment and for a wide field view, my OAG (guider) may still be blocked. I need to wait until the whole field of view clears the chimney. Not a big deal. The advanced sequencer is very feature-rich.
@@Aero19612 I was just wondering since NINA allows you to input your backyard horizon that they couldn't figure a way to use it other than just visual. I'm going to start using the advanced sequencer soon. Thanks for sharing your great videos. I'm a retired Silicon Valley engineer of 42 years so I really like the detailed that you go into.
Nicely done James!! And welcome to the Dark Side mwahahhahaha
The advanced sequencer is quite useful. Always amazing to see the advances in NINA after I stay with a full release version for a "long" time. Now, where is my "Avoid Chimney" instruction? I'll check the nightly builds...probably in there by now.
GREAT Tutorial on the advanced sequencer in NINA James. I too at first was intimidated by it but a couple of weeks ago, I decided to just jump in and learn how to swim. At first, I was bobbing up and down in the waters of NINA (even gasping for air) but with more and more practice, I am now beginning to swim freely and am glad I took the plunge.
Thanks, Pat. When something works, I hate to switch it out. But I do like the capabilities of the Advanced Sequencer. The drag and drop graphical interface is quite well designed.
Absolutely perfect and awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to do this. About to make the switch from APT to NINA in 2 days (all clouds for at least the last month) I can't wait!!!
I know the feeling. I enjoyed APT and it was difficult to make the switch to NINA. But, at that time, APT didn't have true autofocus, so that prodded me to switch to NINA. I'm glad I did and won't go back. The advanced sequencer I discuss in this video is really powerful! Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial James! I love NINA, couldn't imagine doing astrophotography without it.
Thanks, Joe. Agree. It’s really hard to find anything to complain about. I wonder how it has cut into software like SGP. It took me a while to convert over from APT, but the hands-off autofocus just made too much sense. Don’t think I’ll go back to APT even though they’ve got their own autofocus routine now.
I have been reviewing Nina now for a week or so and plan to move to it soon I hope. This is the type of thing I really need. Thanks.
I’m late to party with the Advanced Sequencer (when something works, I don’t like to change if I can help it), but it sure helps deal with the more complicated imaging scenarios we sometimes come across. I was an APT user but have become a NINA convert. Jump in, the water’s fine!
Hey James. Fantastic video. I am trying this out for the first time hopefully tonight. I put the Meridian Flip under the Global Triggers to see if that works so I never have to worry about it. Cheers Kurt
Yes. That's a very good approach. I'm liking the Adv Sequencer. One thing I've found is that you can make changes on the fly while the sequencer is running (couldn't do that with APT). I'm also seeing some inefficiencies in the way NINA normally does things that can be optimized with the Adv Sequencer (like stopping guiding before slewing to a new target and performing an autofocus. Just do all that stuff then start guiding again). Enjoy!
Thanks James. I’ve updated but not really got to grips with the advanced sequencer yet. This explanation really helped. I must get round to doing a custom horizon for my location although there’s only one small and very low obstruction for me. I like the idea that you can pick up targets at given altitudes then follow until below another altitude. Maximises time when they’re in optimum position. Then move to next target etc. Have a great Christmas and best wishes for 2022.
Give it a shot, John. Lots of good features. But lots of overkill, too, unless you need those features. I’ll probably just use it from now on even for simple sessions. Have a great Christmas!
Thanks James! Top-level, Top-shelf, Top of the line instructions!
A very nice and useful feature. Give it shot, if you're not already using it!
WOW James!! Another great breakdown of another tool for AP. Next level stuff my man..
Thanks! Pretty simple and logical interface. I'm sold! Oh, wait, it's free.
Hi James great video. Have you though of using the above and below horizon feature? You can add offsets such as 5 mins for example to add some safety. Then you don’t have to work out the time when the chimney will be in the way. You could do a solve and centre before you start your guiding and acquisition again when the object comes out from behind the chimney. . Then over multiple nights you don’t have to keep adjusting the time that the object will be behind the chimney.
Thanks Matt. So many useful options and tweaks! I'm not sure that would work for a vertical line like the chimney. NINA is looking at the center of the image to assess its angle above or below a horizon/altitude line (rather than azimuth angle to the left or right of a vertical edge). In this scenario, my guiding and/or image are affected when the chimney line enters the FoV, but the center of the image is still over the lower roof line to the left of the chimney. So, I've got to account for the edge of my FoV rather than just the center. Not so bad for a large focal length (small diameter FoV), quite a bit worse for a short focal length (large diameter FoV). Thanks for watching!
Hi James. Thanks for another great video. Your explanations are always spot-on for my learning style, so I really appreciate your efforts. I have been putting off using the advanced sequencer despite the fact that it looks like it would really help with mosaics (where I break each panel into 2 or more different times in the same night). Timing (always a pain when dithering) seems cleaner with the advanced sequencer. I need to figure out how to load RA/DEC from the NINA framing assistant for each panel. It is probably very simple but I just need to fiddle with it. I will have plenty not time since we probably won't have clear skies for a couple of weeks. Bob
I waited to switch to the Advanced Sequencer as long as I could! It was either that or take out the neighbor’s chimney with a well-placed bazooka shot. Fewer issues with the HOA if I learn the Advanced Sequencer, I guess. But not as fun. I’ve got a list of things to do with my week-long cloud cover as well. Sleep would be good. My “Trust but verify” mindset doesn’t pair well with learning new AP automation methods. Go ahead and jump in, Bob. It meshes well with engineers’ “deconstruct, then apply” approach.
Very well done Jay!
Stupid chimney. Haha. Oh well, I learned something new. Lot of good stuff in the Advanced Sequencer. Are you using it?
@@Aero19612 not yet, but I like the idea that you can stop imaging on a target at a specific time and altitude location. I wish we could do that with the simple sequencer. I may have to try it, just don't want to screw up an advance sequence the first time while getting some sleep and find out I lost a imaging because I messed up. So I guess an all-nighter is needed for my first time 🙂
Yep. Had a couple of "wake up every 2 hours" nights. Plus, I had my EQ6-R stop tracking a couple of nights (did I mention that?). Not the sequencer's fault. Maybe dew or damaged insulation on USB cable. I'm comfortable with the sequencer now. Got some cloudy weather ahead - - time to get that mini PC up and running to see if I can eliminate the looong USB cable back to the house.
Thanks for this great advanced sequencer tutorial. Kinda reminds me to blockly, which is a comparable instructions and logic based block scheme often used in home automation.
Now, regardless the wonderful and powerful concept that lays behind sequencers for nightsky photography: how do you cope with that fact that the tiniest spray of unexpected rain will have the potential to basically destroy a five digit equipment??
Hadn't heard of Blockly. Sounds very similar. The Advanced Sequencer is very well organized. I really like it. As for rain...Well, if there's a hint of rain in the forecast, I don't set the equipment outside. I often go outside in the morning to find the exposed equipment dripping with dew. And then there was the time I forgot to turn off the automatic sprinkler system. That was bad. Everything survived.
James. I'm curious if you're still using the digital angle gauge for setting your camera rotation? I know you said you don't have a rotator at one point in the video. You can still "attach" or "connect" to the rotator equipment during setup. When you do connect to one, and don't have a motorized rotator, NINA will assume YOU are the rotator. At the beginning of the plate solving sequence NINA will prompt you to adjust the rotation of the camera some value of degrees either clockwise or counter clockwise. So, set your rotation on the target and let the plate solving tell you how close you are. You can adjust the tolerance for rotation in the NINA options->plate solving menu. I have mine set to 1 degree... you can of course go less but it does get tedious depending on how good you are at hitting the rotation spot. Try it out and see if you like it... you can leave the digital angle gauge behind if you do!
Yeah, I assumed that’s how that worked. Funny, I use the angle gauge so that I don’t have to do the manual rotator bit with NINA. It’s a cool feature, but I would much rather orient the camera in a well lit room during the day, then attach the cables in its rotated position than take my laptop outside and do this in the dark. Sounds like you’re having a good experience with it though. Who knows, I may see the light and the error of my ways! Thanks for the suggestion and input! Keeps me on my toes.
@@Aero19612 Funny.. I didn't think of that aspect. I use a phone app to check my level. It also has an angle gauge feature. Setting things up inside would definitely be useful (I'm in the east and it's COLD this time of year after dark!).
I just wanted to point out the NINA feature in case you weren't aware of it.
Absolutely! Always welcome the “why are you doing it that way?” question. That’s how “I” discovered NINA in the first place: viewers told me about it! I caved. And I’m ok with that. Keep it up
Another excellent video James!!.. May I ask how you attached the angle gauge to the back of the camera? What was the reference for zero angle?
Thanks and stay safe and healthy!
The gauge was resting on the flat of a USB cable that was plugged into the back of the camera (I need a better “shelf” than that. I’ll have to come up with some sort of clamp-on fixture). I have an older video where I introduce that gauge and talk about orientation. I set the angle based on Stellarium. When the “ASI 1600MM” writing on the back of the camera is vertical, that corresponds to a 0 deg angle in Stellarium. Rotate the camera clockwise for + angles. Thanks for watching, Diego!
Thought my mount was PA in NINA (< 1 degree fro both), but when I slew to coordinates, the camera is way off; I did get a warning it didn't slew far enough or something, to somehow change slew rate? but that warning went away when I next PA; what could be wrong? Used an L bracket for the camera, but that shouldn't be a problem
There can be many causes. A couple of things to verify: (1) make sure there are no cables that are getting tangled and preventing the motion of the mount and (2) make sure the RA and DEC clutches are tight. I've had situations where I slew to a target, but the mount doesn't move (like your problem). Turns out, the motors were moving, but the clutch was slipping. I took the clutch lever off and pulled out the "button" that contacts the RA worm wheel and cleaned off the grease. No problems since. Good luck!
Hi James. How did you mount the digital angle gauge to the camera? Great idea by the way :)
It's resting on the flat of a USB cable. I need a better technique for attaching it to the camera though. The USB flat isn't that flat and permits some error.
@@Aero19612 Thank you. I will it a try :)
What about "stop guiding" before "parking the scope" ?
You can. There's a setting in PHD2 (I think) that says "stop guiding when slewing" then PHD2 will resume guiding after the slew. There's no need to stop guiding if "Park Scope" is the next command. When I have a multi-target imaging night, I stop slewing before switching to the next target just so NINA won't waste time restarting guiding when my next step is to stop guiding and perform an autofocus. Thanks for watching, Wayne!
James, question if I may. I am getting pinched looking stars from my OAG. I have tried almost everything with no success. Do you have any experience with this issue? One thread said to move the stalk but did not say what direction. Thanks for your time and videos.
Hi Anthony. A couple of thoughts. First, remember that all is not lost, even with pinched stars when we're talking about guide stars. PHD2 is only interested in the centroid of light and isn't that sensitive to star shape (round vs oval vs V-shaped).
Ok. Now let's try to get better looking stars! The OAG is looking at the outer perimeter of the light cone and will therefore see the worst of a non-flat field even though your stars in the corners of you imaging camera subs look pretty good. So, you could be dealing with a non-flat field (no field flattener or not quite correct backfocus) or maybe image tilt (can you rotate the OAG 90 deg). The comment about moving the stalk is probably meant to move the OAG prism toward the optical axis so that you see less effects of a non flat field. Potential problem is that the stalk can cause more of a shadow or block light to the imaging sensor altogether. If you're not seeing any shadow at all in your images, then you have some room to spare and can move the stalk toward the center. Hope that helps some! Good luck
@@Aero19612 Thank you very much for your help James. It is very much appreciated.
Too bad NINA can't use our backyard height map to stop photos and continue after.
Well, it can do that for a standard horizon. Use this instruction to image until the target drops below the horizon:
"Loop While Altitude Above Horizon"
And use
"Wait Until Above Horizon"
to start imaging once the target rises above the backyard horizon. These instructions work for most typical cases. My chimney problem is a bit different. I could use the "Loop While..." and when the chimney horizon jumps up, imaging will stop. I could also use "Wait until..." to resume once I'm beyond the chimney. The problem is that these instructions use the center of the field of view to make the assessment and for a wide field view, my OAG (guider) may still be blocked. I need to wait until the whole field of view clears the chimney. Not a big deal. The advanced sequencer is very feature-rich.
@@Aero19612 I was just wondering since NINA allows you to input your backyard horizon that they couldn't figure a way to use it other than just visual. I'm going to start using the advanced sequencer soon. Thanks for sharing your great videos. I'm a retired Silicon Valley engineer of 42 years so I really like the detailed that you go into.