It amazes me that you got that 3/8 fitting into the carburetor fitting up top. I tried with a fitting from west marine and had 0 luck and did not want to force it
your video is suppose to show how to change the fuel pump. I find it funny that you say" you have to watch a video on how to lift the push rod. I thought that would fall under how to change a fuel pump.lol
Great video! Just what I needed as I just bought an 20ft Aztec Imp with trailer for $90.00 (Yup, ninety dollars only)! The motor started for me once when I placed fuel directly in the carbs. I figured it may be a bad fuel pump. I already ordered a new pump just in case after cleaning the one already on didn't work well (Changed Fuel/Water Separator and all hoses are in very good condition as well as the fuel pump). After viewing this video, I have the yellow line just hanging from the fuel pump (It was le that when I got it and I have no idea where or what its function is). I see, from your video, that it's supposed to connect to the carbs (only video I found that touches upon that line). I'll search tomorrow where it should've been connected. What exactly is its function? Great video and thank you! Screw the rest of these negative commentors!
Line to top of diaphragm is a marine safety thing so leaks get sucked into carb vs. leaking into bilge and creating a fire hazard. That manifold vacuum tap is why you should use the marine rated replacement and not just a Chevy pump.
another video showed a mechanic using an old hacksaw blade bent in a L shape to hold up the push rod while sliding in the new pump seems to be a good trick I'll try it out when my new pump arrives in 2 days he showed it was easy to remove instead of using a screw driver... good info thanks I'm doing the same replacement don't forget the 2nd filter that goes into the front of the carb mine had sand in it can't believe it made it through the fuel/water filter separator the lines were fused onto the carb looked like it wasn't changed in 20 yrs bought the boat 3yrs ago replacing a little each year...I'm debating installing an additional inline fuel filter since the water filter/separator allowed sand to travel through it crazy!
Good video. Hard to get at mechanical pump tho due to the way my Tahoe bilge is shaped, so I may opt to just retrofit an electric pump (keeping stock filter/water sep. on electric pump suction). Confirmed pump was bad by removing fuel filter/water separator, emptying, re-installing, and then cranking engine. Remove and look for fuel in filter, if filter is empty, you have a bad pump (no suction thru filter, with no sucking from tank in order to fill the filter, and self-prime the mechanical fuel pump).
No. You can test if you have current getting to the plugs with out pulling them. Unfortunately the only way to test the plugs is to pull them. However if you think it's the plugs you may as well replace them while you have them out.
The fuel line running from the fuel pump to the carburetor is a HUGE violation of Coast Guard & ABYC rules & regulations. If you ever have a fire on board your insurance company probably won't cover the loss....if anyone is injured, you'll get sued bigtime!
@@richardluce775 I would assume you live in the USA? I'd say it's because your country doesn't have a good ACC system that looks after you if your injured ? 😉
Hello For what is the yelow line/tube?!? My tube is filing with gas..and flow in carb. From that gas the idle is not constant. In video you say..the line is for....and you change subject 😕
How many turns were you able achieve with the threaded end on the carburetor? I, too, have a 3/8 thread on the end that goes to the carburetor so I purchased the 3/8 thread to 3/8 barb hose. But I'm only able achieve less than half a turn.
Brayan Elias I got about 4 full turns. Probably almost 5. It was kind of tight but it kept turning smoothly. I used a through rachet for spark plugs so the torque was closer to the body. I didn't want to go any further and cause damage so I stopped there. I figured it was enough since they are the same exact thread pattern and there was no fuel leaking. Did you make sure the new fitting threads matched the old?
Does someone know that’s the size of that yellow or clear plastic hose size or have a link to buy it? My just disconnected by it self and it just short about 4” no matter how I try to put it back, and it is so rock hard…. Maybe just need change a new one
Yeah. That one is a pain in the ass. Brass is the worst. Sometimes it's easier to take the whole carb off so you can get a better angle at it. But only do that if you're confident you can get it back on. If not vice grips are the best bet. The good thing is that the worst that will happen is the brass fitting strips. It won't snap because it is so soft.
New stainless steel bent OEM fuel line comes with the carb connector nut and all but is pricey over 100 I have a 3.0l merc. racing stainless flex line kit is cheaper and looks better with colored fittings under 100
Real Canadian There are no braided hoses approved by the Coast Guard for fuel. You may find it on go fast boats but it’s not the best, even for EFI lines. The hose liner must be ethanol resistant. Some stainless braid may have Teflon liners which is. In marine environments the junction where the stainless braid and the anodized fitting is subject to anodic corrosion and failure.
Kurt Lyons you're definitely correct, there is a difference. Good catch. And That was labeled as a compression at the hardware store. Luckily it worked anyway.
The fuel line from the pump to the carb is required by law to be steel. You need to get the correct steel line from Mercury and remove the rubber hose. Your boat is NOT a car!
@@jeffcojd I'm trying to potentially save the guys life...and anyone else that might be on board if a fire starts due to improper maintenance! A boat is NOT and automobile. Proper marine service procedures MUST be followed!!!
Are you serious? Your title says how to replace a fuel pump yet you already did it BEFORE shooting the video. AND you announce that if we want to see how to replace the pump, do a TH-cam search! How do you think we got to your video, Dummy?! Because we wanted to SEE A VIDEO of how to change a mechanical pump! Not listen to a story about how you did! (Past tense) It's become way to easy for any pickle to post any video about nothing!
Darcy Greer it was actually incredibly easy and I decided to shoot the video after it was all done. Thanks for watching and taking the time to type out the insults.
It seemed pretty easy to change this pump. So, I think I got all I needed in order to feel fairly confident to complete the replacement. However, I am a little sketchy on the pushrod. Someone posted a link to that video already.
It amazes me that you got that 3/8 fitting into the carburetor fitting up top. I tried with a fitting from west marine and had 0 luck and did not want to force it
your video is suppose to show how to change the fuel pump. I find it funny that you say" you have to watch a video on how to lift the push rod. I thought that would fall under how to change a fuel pump.lol
Great video! Just what I needed as I just bought an 20ft Aztec Imp with trailer for $90.00 (Yup, ninety dollars only)! The motor started for me once when I placed fuel directly in the carbs. I figured it may be a bad fuel pump. I already ordered a new pump just in case after cleaning the one already on didn't work well (Changed Fuel/Water Separator and all hoses are in very good condition as well as the fuel pump). After viewing this video, I have the yellow line just hanging from the fuel pump (It was le that when I got it and I have no idea where or what its function is). I see, from your video, that it's supposed to connect to the carbs (only video I found that touches upon that line). I'll search tomorrow where it should've been connected. What exactly is its function? Great video and thank you! Screw the rest of these negative commentors!
Line to top of diaphragm is a marine safety thing so leaks get sucked into carb vs. leaking into bilge and creating a fire hazard. That manifold vacuum tap is why you should use the marine rated replacement and not just a Chevy pump.
Drinking game... Have a drink every time he says "OK?"... or "Alright?" Nice video bud... Helped me fix my pump.
another video showed a mechanic using an old hacksaw blade bent in a L shape to hold up the push rod while sliding in the new pump seems to be a good trick I'll try it out when my new pump arrives in 2 days he showed it was easy to remove instead of using a screw driver... good info thanks I'm doing the same replacement don't forget the 2nd filter that goes into the front of the carb mine had sand in it can't believe it made it through the fuel/water filter separator the lines were fused onto the carb looked like it wasn't changed in 20 yrs bought the boat 3yrs ago replacing a little each year...I'm debating installing an additional inline fuel filter since the water filter/separator allowed sand to travel through it crazy!
Good video. Hard to get at mechanical pump tho due to the way my Tahoe bilge is shaped, so I may opt to just retrofit an electric pump (keeping stock filter/water sep. on electric pump suction). Confirmed pump was bad by removing fuel filter/water separator, emptying, re-installing, and then cranking engine. Remove and look for fuel in filter, if filter is empty, you have a bad pump (no suction thru filter, with no sucking from tank in order to fill the filter, and self-prime the mechanical fuel pump).
Yes, thanks for reminding me to have a fire extinguisher at hand.
Can you tell if you have good spark without testing your spark plugs?
No. You can test if you have current getting to the plugs with out pulling them. Unfortunately the only way to test the plugs is to pull them. However if you think it's the plugs you may as well replace them while you have them out.
The fuel line running from the fuel pump to the carburetor is a HUGE violation of Coast Guard & ABYC rules & regulations. If you ever have a fire on board your insurance company probably won't cover the loss....if anyone is injured, you'll get sued bigtime!
Lol
@@willliam1343 ever wonder why you see so many “ Injured “ ads from lawyers.
@@richardluce775 I would assume you live in the USA? I'd say it's because your country doesn't have a good ACC system that looks after you if your injured ? 😉
Hello
For what is the yelow line/tube?!?
My tube is filing with gas..and flow in carb.
From that gas the idle is not constant.
In video you say..the line is for....and you change subject 😕
I believe that means the diaphragm on your pump is bad. You need to replace your pump.
Where dose the yellow line connect to i changed my pump but. It didn't had the old pump for line reference
@Lpass2020 do the screws or bolts on the fuel pump have lock washers?
How fast does it go up and down to pump fuel? Slow or quick? Thanks
Unfortunately I'm not sure about that . Sorry about that . I wish I could be more help
I didn't see the top left hose barb on the old pump, that connects the tube running to the carburetor. Was it there??
How many turns were you able achieve with the threaded end on the carburetor? I, too, have a 3/8 thread on the end that goes to the carburetor so I purchased the 3/8 thread to 3/8 barb hose. But I'm only able achieve less than half a turn.
Brayan Elias I got about 4 full turns. Probably almost 5. It was kind of tight but it kept turning smoothly. I used a through rachet for spark plugs so the torque was closer to the body. I didn't want to go any further and cause damage so I stopped there. I figured it was enough since they are the same exact thread pattern and there was no fuel leaking. Did you make sure the new fitting threads matched the old?
You got the wrong thread pitch. I made the same mistake tonight.
Does someone know that’s the size of that yellow or clear plastic hose size or have a link to buy it? My just disconnected by it self and it just short about 4” no matter how I try to put it back, and it is so rock hard…. Maybe just need change a new one
I can't remember the size but I think it is 1/8" ID. You should absolutely change it though if it feels rock hard
did you have to prime it after?
Nope. It's a mechanical pump so there is no primer.
@@Lpass2020 how the he'll do I get the air out of the system them
at 7:42 you misspoke and said go down to the fuel filter not fuel pump.
Overall I liked your video good explaining
What size fuel line did you use from fuel pump to fuel filter?
It would be all 3/8 "
Really struggling to get my compression bolt free from the carburetor
Yeah. That one is a pain in the ass. Brass is the worst. Sometimes it's easier to take the whole carb off so you can get a better angle at it. But only do that if you're confident you can get it back on. If not vice grips are the best bet. The good thing is that the worst that will happen is the brass fitting strips. It won't snap because it is so soft.
What is the golden (yellow) line? For Air or Fuel? Thanks
Vent line to carb
Thanks for taking the time to answer. That’s what I thought. 👍
OK THEN , sounds like a 10 beer job.
hahahah
Should be able to do it with 6.
Link to video where the mechanic shows that you need to position the rod appropriately on the pump. th-cam.com/video/qyjJ-ZZ8rv0/w-d-xo.html
You did everything fine, except fuel lines on boats are not “bla bla bla”. They must be Coast Guard approved fuel lines.
New stainless steel bent OEM fuel line comes with the carb connector nut and all but is pricey over 100
I have a 3.0l merc.
racing stainless flex line kit is cheaper and looks better with colored fittings under 100
Real Canadian
There are no braided hoses approved by the Coast Guard for fuel. You may find it on go fast boats but it’s not the best, even for EFI lines. The hose liner must be ethanol resistant. Some stainless braid may have Teflon liners which is. In marine environments the junction where the stainless braid and the anodized fitting is subject to anodic corrosion and failure.
They are not compression fittings...they are flared fittings...BIG DIFFERENCE!
Kurt Lyons you're definitely correct, there is a difference. Good catch. And That was labeled as a compression at the hardware store. Luckily it worked anyway.
The fuel line from the pump to the carb is required by law to be steel. You need to get the correct steel line from Mercury and remove the rubber hose. Your boat is NOT a car!
@@kurtlyons136 Damn, you're that annoying know-it-all! You had nothing positive to say, just picking apart what the man said, get a life!
@@jeffcojd I'm trying to potentially save the guys life...and anyone else that might be on board if a fire starts due to improper maintenance! A boat is NOT and automobile. Proper marine service procedures MUST be followed!!!
Can u plz give me part number for fuel pump
M6973 Mechanical Fuel Pump. You can get a Carter or Airtex Fuel Pump from Amazon.
Are you serious? Your title says how to replace a fuel pump yet you already did it BEFORE shooting the video. AND you announce that if we want to see how to replace the pump, do a TH-cam search! How do you think we got to your video, Dummy?! Because we wanted to SEE A VIDEO of how to change a mechanical pump! Not listen to a story about how you did! (Past tense)
It's become way to easy for any pickle to post any video about nothing!
Darcy Greer it was actually incredibly easy and I decided to shoot the video after it was all done. Thanks for watching and taking the time to type out the insults.
It seemed pretty easy to change this pump. So, I think I got all I needed in order to feel fairly confident to complete the replacement. However, I am a little sketchy on the pushrod. Someone posted a link to that video already.