Applying Waterslide Decal and Spraying Headstock Tips Luthier Video
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Some tips on masking the neck off when spraying a headstock and the application of a waterslide logo decal....I'm using Nitrocellulose lacquer.
The bass (5 string Jazz) was originally made by Jim Cairnes a UK based luthier who sadly passed away some time ago. I have been restoring the bass and the logo will be the finishing touch!
This is miles easier than the steps listed that came with the decal, thank you lol
Glad to help 😃 thanks for watching.
Lovely job. Nice tip about sanding flat.
This is awesome, but I really wanted to see the ACTUAL SPRAYING of the lacquer on to the headstock. I have the hardest time finding that part actually shown in videos. They just kind of show a before and after which is great but not very helpful when you're looking for the actual technique of spraying lacquer so that it doesn't look bad when you're done. Can you show that?
Sorry only just seen this. I’m working on a couple of videos now which hopefully you’ll be able see the spraying on. It’s not particularly easy to film and spray and end up with good results on both…and keep the camera clean! But I have some footage on the upcoming ones. Thanks for watching.
thanks so much for the tip on the black headstock !!!
5:15 looks fantastic! Thank you, this helps a lot :)
Glad to help…Thanks for watching 😃
Well done - thanks! Just finished a black headstock using some of these tips
Great! Glad it was useful. Thank you for watching
Good video - need this for when I apply decals to my own guitars!
Thanks! Cool name btw :)
@@mantoncustoms Thanks :-)
Hi Manton Customs, I appreciate your video very much. Presently I also try to put a decal on a type of "roasted headstock" (dark wood). I put 3 coats of wipe-on poly (excellent laquer) on the headstock, then placed the decal on it and put another 3 coats of wipe-on poly over it. Like in your video (starting at 5'50min) I then tried carefully to wetsand over the decal, to bring the outlines down and to remove the "opague" white shadow under the decal. I tried that with a 1500 grid wetsand-paper. At the very beginning it worked outstanding, but what a pitty, suddenly I sanded into the decal somehow and the letters in the decal were ruined. I can't understand, how this was possible, because I was very careful and the 3 coats of laquer couldn't be sanded through this fast, because I didn't use pressure while sanding. Could you tell me , what I did wrong ? Would appreciate your advice very much. Cheers Roger
Hi Roger,
Thanks for watching and glad the video was helpful. Sorry to hear about the decal sand through. There’s a few possibilities for what caused it -
1, the poly wasn’t dry enough to withstand sanding and it was sanded too soon.
2, the decal wasn’t stuck down flat and had ridges in it which were higher than your top coat.
3, there wasn’t enough poly on top of the decal…I don’t have a lot of experience with wipe on Poly, but the ones I have used, have been really slow to build and each coat is quite thin.
I’d recommend spraying the headstock even if you’re using wipe on poly for the rest of the neck.
You have to use lacquer spray
Nice!
Thanks!
Hallo, very helpful demonstration, thank you. Is there a particular kind of clear lacquer spray that you would recommend? Thanks v much.
Glad you found it useful. I usually use nitrocellulose or cellulose lacquer, but I’ve also used poly over the decals. I’m sure acrylic lacquer would be fine too, but I’ve not used it
I've used Acrylic......not recommended, the decal.shrunk and ended up 'creased' under the lacquer,had to sand it all off,re-spray,and fitted new decal,then I used polyurethane lacquer...all ok
@@mantoncustoms Poly it's easy?
It's most likely that the reaction the decal had with the Acrylic lacquer topcoat was due to the lacquer being too wet, too soon, when being put on top of the decal. If you're putting on a lacquer, or even a non-compatible paint on top of a decal, or on top of a different type of paint, the purpose of several mist coats will act as a barrier / isolator between the different surfaces. Mist coats are exactly that, a mist only, and each should be dry before another is applied. Even if 10-20 mist coats of lacquer are put on over an hour, the thickness will not be too great, but should give enough thickness of lacquer for the coats to be gradually thickened without any reaction from the incompatible lacquer/paint.
How long did you wait for the laquer to dry before applying the decal? The next day? Im currently planning on 10 days which is what stewmac recommends for the absolute minimum time before polishing the colortone laquer. And I assume I have to have a decent polish under the decal when I apply it or is the orange peel invisible due to the adhesive?
Overnight is plenty of time before applying the decal. 10 days or more is for the final polishing the lacquer, not level sanding. You don’t need to polish under the decal, just spray a nice wet coat (with no orange peel) and don’t sand it before the decal goes on.
What did you use to seal the decal before dipping it in water? Nitro? Something else?
This type of decal does not need sealing. I believe you do that with ones you print yourself.
@@mantoncustoms
Yes, I’m making my own. Was planing to use acrylic enamel spray to seal them. Just wondering if it will be compatible with the nitro.
I know this video is a couple years old but, if you see this-do you know a good method for re-loosening a water slide decal thats been set and dried on a maple headstock that has your typical maple clear finish?
Nothing has been sprayed over this particular decal. I've tried letting it sit with a wet, warm and mildly soapy paper towl for longer than 20 minutes and the decal will not move. I realize I'd have to somehow get moisture under the decal but, I'm unsure if that is even feasible without destroying the decal. Thank you!
Unfortunately I think you may be out of luck, when I make a mistake like this I usually just sand or strip it off. You could try naphtha to remove it instead…on the decals I use this will dissolve the whole decal and the glue holding it.
@@mantoncustoms
For your potential future reference. After soaking with warm water and a small amount of dawn dish soap, (don't know if the soap actually helped but, was part of the process I happened to use) the decal would not slide, however, I noticed I could get the edges to pull up. I was able to gently pull the edge from one end up, pulling roughly 3/4 of the decal up so as not to have it roll and stick to itself, then dab water underneath the decal with my fingertip, lay it back down, pull opposite end up, dab water under that end, then decal would slide with no issue.
For anyone who may try this method - keep in mind my headstock is finished maple, so the decal slid easily. Also, once you're able to move decal, try to get it where you want as efficiently and quickly as you're able as I noticed after messing about with the decal too much, the black ink - didn't smear but, kinda broke a tiny section off the print on one of the letters in the script. Good luck!
I've tried this but when it totally dries you will notice the edges of the decal, eben though how many times you add another coats
Sounds like you either had crinkles/folds at the edges, or air bubbles. Or whatever you’re spraying on is extremely low solid content. If done correctly the edges will be 100% invisible
What exacly is the blue tape you used?
The masking?…3M fine line, they do it in 6mm or 3mm width
Didn't I see you in Pirates of the Caribbean?
Rude?
@@stratrat57
Agreed, definitely unnecessary.
nicely done!! I personally would have angled it along the edge of the head stock (like fender does) rather than parallel with the neck. Subjective. Great job.