I take it from the bent tube that you'e experimented with melting a working tube? I went through a phase of creating warped fluorescent tubes over a gas cooker burner. You have to move the tube in and out the flame for preheating and cooling, but you can create some well warped tubes that still light.
I like your videos like this it just goes to show that the product will stand up to normal operating conditions and actualy last rather than stop working as soon as you plug it in.
Well another great video, awesome :) And electronic ballast is limited to the mains filtering capacitor, most likely it was 400V (does not matter 105C or 85C, will blow up if voltage is higher than rated) Even if we put 600V cap, next thing that will go is mosfet that drives the pulse transformer, it would give only like ~100V extra with a different capacitor, so nobody bothers putting more expensive capacitors with higher voltage in them, since it gives most to nothing.
Yeah, maybe if you get 450VAC every day. But for efficiency and tube life, the electronic ballasts are way better. There's a reason the industry is moving to them. Rather, I should say, there's a reason the industry _moved_ to them.
Old comment thread but in 2024 we're throwing out a stupid amount of electronic ballasts and LED batten lights that have all failed in our new buildings. The humble old magnetic ballasts are still going strong that we still have up in the old buildings.
Dear mr photon , I would like to thank you for saving me 50 quid on a carpet cleaner last week. I threw up over the carpet last Saturday night , after watching one of your old videos prob years back you demonstrated motor in water and how long it lasts , suffice to say I put my old Hoover to good use sucking up a bucket of water after washing the carpet, Hoover sat on top of a bucket , motor didn't like all the water but did the trick ! Thanks!
Damn... looking back at this vid, it's hard to imagine the fate of Ashley (TheManLab7) only two months after this was uploaded... Such a devastating tragedy to happen only at the age of 25. When I saw the Critical Update video - I was speechless and really ground to bits... A real pity, indeed. 😖😧
I much prefer the electronic "120-277V" ones we use here for the lower mains voltages, BUT they smoke just as good when the apprentice installs one on the good 'ol Canadian 347V lighting circuits.
Alan Bradley: 253V is the maximum the UK grid is supposed to supply. So 250V may not be typical, but it is within the legally accepted tolerances. EDIT 25/4/2015: the above comment was made in the context of this video which is regarding a light fitting designed to run on domestic UK mains of 230/240V and tested to destruction, and in the further context of the question posted by Alan Bradley who asked whether 250V was over-voltage. It has since been pointed out to me that in some cases the grid supplies higher voltages. My comment only applies to the UK mains as used in standard domestic conditions where the electricity supply is a _nominal_ 230V.
nop. when null-wire damaged it can be 380 V (between 2 phases) nominal. 220V*sqrt(3) = 380V, so 253V*sqrt(3) = 438V 438V is possible voltage when null-wire damage happen.
That'll be three phase though? My comment was regarding single phase as the original video was about lighting (running on single phase and designed for 230/240V). Actually bit confused now as three phase in UK was always 415V, now nominally 400V, so doesn't explain your situation :(
That's right, but for commercial and industrial systems in the US things typically run between 208 volts star (120 volt phase to Neutral), 240 volts split single phase (120 volts to neutral also in residential), 240 volt high leg delta (neutral between two phases to allow two phases to have 120 volts to neutral). We also have 480 volt star (277 volts to neutral). That is just what is used in buildings, you also have a few other odd systems used for street lighting, railroads, etc.
After careful consideration, and watching quite a few of your videos, I have reached the conclusion that you are barking mad and I just love watching you electrocute various items!! hahahaha.
Looks like that electronic ballast was designed to run in the states. Not only do we have 120 volts for lighting, but some industrial and commercial installations use 240 or even 277 volts for lighting. I figured it would last for quite a few more volts.
Magnetic ones are definitely good for driving photographers insane, it sucks being limited in shutter speeds to deal with low frequency lighting. Not that any fluorescent lighting is exactly the friend of a photographer, but low frequency stuff is pure evil.
I guess most photographers are glad that as long as it's not faulty, LED lights that we have now generally provide better lighting than most florescent lights ever did.
as always highly educational and worthy of a LIKE, now all we need is a bit more voltage to make the crappy fluro's give of a bit more light...stuff the environment the single dislike troll needs to get a job
All LEDs require a ballast (in this case a series resistor) to limit maximum current. A forward biased LED presents almost zero ohms. There has to be a resistor for each LED, you cannot connect them in parallel with each other and use a single resistor.
Also: A hello to Mr. ManLab. :-) I also forgot to say in my last comment (mainly because I run out of characters again!) that at 0:20, I spotted some nice BIG fuses in the background on that shelf where the rolls of wire & cable are. :-) -BoomBoxDeluxe.
I am surprised the electronic ballast lasted as long as it did. must have had a tough capacitor. None the less it's the capacitor that went first again. I'm also surprised the magnetic/inductive ballast went at all. I would have guessed the bulbs would have popped first. Always something to learn. Great job and keep em comin
There are definitely some valuable things, such as which ballast had the most previous use. Certainly, most of the magnetic ballasts made near the end of the majority of the first world allowing the importance of them, were not so well made.
Let me help, in Portuguese: É um balastro comum e corrente. Encontras isso em quase qualquer loja de material de iluminação. O que existe é os novos balastros electrónicos, mas suspeito que não queiras isso. Tenta ir a lojas mais antigas, de regra geral tem um stock dessas coisas giras.
Do you know if there are any wall outlets that are higher than 440 volts? If so I would like to see that, as well as you experimenting above that range.
Hey Photon, i have a few old fluorescent lamp laying around, is there anything fun/interesting you can do with a couple of magnetic ballasts? Perhaps harness the volt spike when he tubes startup? Thanks
But magnetic ballasts produce heavy flicker which not only reduces efficiency but also the overall lighting output and even puts sensitive individuals at risk of at risk of adverse health effects from the flicker
I'm guessing the electronic ones are more power efficient under normal conditions, though? What are those nasty chemicals in the electronics? Some plastic, some silicon in the chips, a little bit aluminium in the electrolytics. Doesn't seem too bad.
I can't remember, but I think this was my idea as I was changing over so many magnetic ballast to electronic. But tbh I'm not entirely sure 🤔I know there were some ideas that where mine but I haven't got clue which ones they were 🤷🏻♂️ I know I used to bring random bits home from work and just have a chat and then thought "Has anyone ever done a video like this before?" n went from there. There were quite a few videos we did that never aired because they weren't funny or interesting enough.
hi pal i have a uv lamp which is pls 2 pin 36w my chinese replacement ballest blown up brandnew so i want a metal one what type of ballest would i need thanks lads
Viewer # 230 :D Ah, Mr Photon, you popped them. :D I guessed right what would happen in this vid, and what would give out first. Imagine that....the lights are on, a small power spike....... *POP* Oh dear!! Yes, the other set would've taken that power spike & kept on trucking afterwards, as demonstrated when you re-connected the power after the first poppage. So, how did you manage to exceed 240v? Did you use The Mega MOT ? Whenever The Mega MOT comes out to play, there's poppage! :D -BBD.
Why don't you find an industrial-class quality electronic ballast? The one featured in the video didn't even have something as basic as overvoltage protection.
And one more idea for future, may be get some High Voltage from big transformer 10kv and put them into OLD TV vacuum bulb display. connect all outer pins on the gun for 1 terminal and second one into top HV terminal... just think about this.
Some one should answer what a ballast is. For those of us who are here for smoke and sparks. I rather like the videos where Photon explained the principles he was having fun with or some information about the items he was tinkering with. That's what I like, the information followed by excessive application of said information.
I'm not sure what's around where you are, but I got some $10 LED bulbs- it all depends on where you live, but LEDs are way better than florescents in my opinion and should be used if practical to do so.
@@coalthedergsune I still have some LED bulbs that I was using when I wrote that comment ten years ago, so that's not true. And those that did go out in that time went bad because the circuit in the base got too warm; the LEDs themselves were fine and new ones don't make as much heat. Old fluorescent tubes get dim and hard to start.
That was weird! I smelled burning components when I saw this! The power of suggestion is strong indeed!!!! WOW! I am another mad scientist Hellbent for High voltage stuff! I make Tesla coils for fun, 9 so far and many more to go. thanks, that was cool!
I'd hardly call having a lamp outlast the control gear better overall. I'll admit on paper electronic is far superior but the problem is they just can't do the hours. One of my mates is a sparky and has a skip full of dead high frequency ballasts!
I knew the magnetic ballast would be tougher then the electronic one. So many parts that can fail inside that thing and if one part fails, no more light bulb. Could you please tell me what kind of ballast those are for the magnetic type? I have done most of my own work with fluorescent bulbs and as i went bigger in bulb size i found i could not get a 40 watt T12 bulb to kick on in the same way i turned on all smaller sized bulbs..... any ideas you may have please hit me up. Keep up the good work m8 and stay uh.... safe? heh l8terz man.
Magnetic ballast every time for the win. There are magnetic chokes out there that have been in service for over 50 years! With even the best electronic your lucky to get 5 years out of them and the cheapo Chinese ones are even worse! Magnetic ballasts are also less damaging to the environment when they are disposed of as they are only copper and iron, no electronics with nasty chemicals ect...
Consider too though, that the electronic device may have a much better tube life and cold weather performance because of its pulse-start capability instead of relying on starting filaments like the magnetic. The electronic will always fail first when driven overvoltage, as these guys demonstrated the cap ruptures- they are typically sized to 2x the maximum voltage rating, with many ballasts auto-adjusting to input voltage.
I take it from the bent tube that you'e experimented with melting a working tube? I went through a phase of creating warped fluorescent tubes over a gas cooker burner. You have to move the tube in and out the flame for preheating and cooling, but you can create some well warped tubes that still light.
Video please! :-)
Video please👍😊👍
Drinking, having fun and testing electronics through explosions and booms... Looks like paradise to me!!!!
i love these guys 'tip some beer on it, i bet it's hot'
I learned a new diagnostic technique
What, don't waste the beer
I knew the Cap was gonna pop first. I bet it made a lovely aroma in that room
This is now my new favourite TH-cam channel. So great to hear British accents and humour. Great outro :-)
I like your videos like this it just goes to show that the product will stand up to normal operating conditions and actualy last rather than stop working as soon as you plug it in.
Well another great video, awesome :) And electronic ballast is limited to the mains filtering capacitor, most likely it was 400V (does not matter 105C or 85C, will blow up if voltage is higher than rated) Even if we put 600V cap, next thing that will go is mosfet that drives the pulse transformer, it would give only like ~100V extra with a different capacitor, so nobody bothers putting more expensive capacitors with higher voltage in them, since it gives most to nothing.
Australian made magnetic ballasts! didn't expect that
Thanks for proving that mag ballasts can outlast a friggen e-ballast any day. There are still those blokes that don't believe it.
Yeah, maybe if you get 450VAC every day. But for efficiency and tube life, the electronic ballasts are way better. There's a reason the industry is moving to them. Rather, I should say, there's a reason the industry _moved_ to them.
@@AureliusR lol that comment was 5 years ago
@@wickett7078 doesn't make the information any less valid though, does it?
@@DanceySteveYNWA I was just trying to point out there was a LOT more mag ballasts still out in the wild when that comment was posted
Old comment thread but in 2024 we're throwing out a stupid amount of electronic ballasts and LED batten lights that have all failed in our new buildings. The humble old magnetic ballasts are still going strong that we still have up in the old buildings.
You just have to love these guys.
Dear mr photon , I would like to thank you for saving me 50 quid on a carpet cleaner last week. I threw up over the carpet last Saturday night , after watching one of your old videos prob years back you demonstrated motor in water and how long it lasts , suffice to say I put my old Hoover to good use sucking up a bucket of water after washing the carpet, Hoover sat on top of a bucket , motor didn't like all the water but did the trick ! Thanks!
Watching this years later and seeing themanlab pre-tragedy hit me right in the feels 😢
What happened?
@@wickett7078 motorcycle accident lost his legs
Us non-cockneys will never know what the funny bit was at the end.
Shall I do the outro?
Yeah go-on then
See you later, boys
LOL!
It's not funny because it's cockney, it's funny because they were essentially saying 'fuck it' to the outro. It's definitely British humour.
I love how that meter beeping adds to the anticipation of it all. Awesome.
I'm still looking forward to more content.
More Photon!
you have no idea how happy I was when I logged in and saw you had uploaded more videos
Damn... looking back at this vid, it's hard to imagine the fate of Ashley (TheManLab7) only two months after this was uploaded... Such a devastating tragedy to happen only at the age of 25. When I saw the Critical Update video - I was speechless and really ground to bits... A real pity, indeed. 😖😧
I much prefer the electronic "120-277V" ones we use here for the lower mains voltages, BUT they smoke just as good when the apprentice installs one on the good 'ol Canadian 347V lighting circuits.
This video needs a remake, magnetic ballast vs electronic ballast vs LED batten lol
Awesome !! Love the humming variac under load. Great test for Science & Technology.
Fast forward to 2021, I cannot get any of these copper ballasts for my experiments. Very low cost for mains power inductor source.
why don't you have a top gear like show for electrical engineering topics?
Because people would die imitating Photonicinduction and friends.
Alan Bradley: 253V is the maximum the UK grid is supposed to supply. So 250V may not be typical, but it is within the legally accepted tolerances.
EDIT 25/4/2015: the above comment was made in the context of this video which is regarding a light fitting designed to run on domestic UK mains of 230/240V and tested to destruction, and in the further context of the question posted by Alan Bradley who asked whether 250V was over-voltage. It has since been pointed out to me that in some cases the grid supplies higher voltages. My comment only applies to the UK mains as used in standard domestic conditions where the electricity supply is a _nominal_ 230V.
nop. when null-wire damaged it can be 380 V (between 2 phases) nominal. 220V*sqrt(3) = 380V, so 253V*sqrt(3) = 438V
438V is possible voltage when null-wire damage happen.
nRADRUS Wouldn't that count as a fault? I was answering Alan's question as to whether 250V is normal or over-voltage.
John Bull rubbish. I have a 480 v supply to my garage
That'll be three phase though? My comment was regarding single phase as the original video was about lighting (running on single phase and designed for 230/240V).
Actually bit confused now as three phase in UK was always 415V, now nominally 400V, so doesn't explain your situation :(
John Bull Your exact words were " 253V is the maximum the UK grid is supposed to supply"..They supply me with 480v.
That magnetic ballast just proves that newer tech isn't always better.
That's right, but for commercial and industrial systems in the US things typically run between 208 volts star (120 volt phase to Neutral), 240 volts split single phase (120 volts to neutral also in residential), 240 volt high leg delta (neutral between two phases to allow two phases to have 120 volts to neutral). We also have 480 volt star (277 volts to neutral). That is just what is used in buildings, you also have a few other odd systems used for street lighting, railroads, etc.
After careful consideration, and watching quite a few of your videos, I have reached the conclusion that you are barking mad and I just love watching you electrocute various items!! hahahaha.
Good 'ol magnetic ballasts. I imagine the electronic ones are a bit more efficient though.
Thanks for posting this Photon
Looks like that electronic ballast was designed to run in the states. Not only do we have 120 volts for lighting, but some industrial and commercial installations use 240 or even 277 volts for lighting. I figured it would last for quite a few more volts.
That's known as the Lightbulb Conspiracy, or what I call "Planned Obsolescence".
Gosh, I loved it when that cap blew AND the CFL's that fried and flared up bright orangey yellow!
Magnetic ones are definitely good for driving photographers insane, it sucks being limited in shutter speeds to deal with low frequency lighting. Not that any fluorescent lighting is exactly the friend of a photographer, but low frequency stuff is pure evil.
I guess most photographers are glad that as long as it's not faulty, LED lights that we have now generally provide better lighting than most florescent lights ever did.
as always highly educational and worthy of a LIKE, now all we need is a bit more voltage to make the crappy fluro's give of a bit more light...stuff the environment
the single dislike troll needs to get a job
Now everything’s LED so we don’t need any ballast.
All LEDs require a ballast (in this case a series resistor) to limit maximum current. A forward biased LED presents almost zero ohms. There has to be a resistor for each LED, you cannot connect them in parallel with each other and use a single resistor.
Good to see the Australian Atco ballasts stood up to a bit of torture, Photon!!!!!!
Awww ya popped it. Dumpster get's fed tonight. Great job - keep um comming!
Also: A hello to Mr. ManLab. :-)
I also forgot to say in my last comment (mainly because I run out of characters again!) that at 0:20, I spotted some nice BIG fuses in the background on that shelf where the rolls of wire & cable are. :-)
-BoomBoxDeluxe.
I am surprised the electronic ballast lasted as long as it did. must have had a tough capacitor. None the less it's the capacitor that went first again. I'm also surprised the magnetic/inductive ballast went at all. I would have guessed the bulbs would have popped first. Always something to learn. Great job and keep em comin
Whatever was beeping was probably counting down to something going pop.
There are definitely some valuable things, such as which ballast had the most previous use. Certainly, most of the magnetic ballasts made near the end of the majority of the first world allowing the importance of them, were not so well made.
Seeing those big high-voltage fuses in the rack, I think we can expect to see some really spectacular experiments in the nearby future :)
Let me help, in Portuguese: É um balastro comum e corrente. Encontras isso em quase qualquer loja de material de iluminação. O que existe é os novos balastros electrónicos, mas suspeito que não queiras isso. Tenta ir a lojas mais antigas, de regra geral tem um stock dessas coisas giras.
Do you know if there are any wall outlets that are higher than 440 volts? If so I would like to see that, as well as you experimenting above that range.
Hey Photon, i have a few old fluorescent lamp laying around, is there anything fun/interesting you can do with a couple of magnetic ballasts? Perhaps harness the volt spike when he tubes startup? Thanks
Lol the lights turn off when he says 420
Edmundson Electrical Sign at start caught my eye because Im a walsall lad :-)
beer, THE FUTURE OF LIQUID COOLING
3:19 Electronic ballast pops...showing how crappy they are.
+DanielWS424 It coped all the way up to about 430 volts! I'd hardly call that "crappy".
add2k Yeah, I'll give it that.
Sorry, but it was a crappy one ballast. They saved on a MOV that should have tripped a fuse.
But magnetic ballasts produce heavy flicker which not only reduces efficiency but also the overall lighting output and even puts sensitive individuals at risk of at risk of adverse health effects from the flicker
I tell people time and again that magnetic is a better design, But they just wont listen :/
I appreciate it thanks 😎👍 you guys are awesome 😎
im guessing that fuse left hand side of the electronic ballast had been photonicinductioned? Great vid as always!
Magnetic ballasts have a coil so they live longer
Always wondered, could you do a Jacobs ladder with these things?
I used to assemble light fittings for shop fit, using these tubes...!
I'm guessing the electronic ones are more power efficient under normal conditions, though? What are those nasty chemicals in the electronics? Some plastic, some silicon in the chips, a little bit aluminium in the electrolytics. Doesn't seem too bad.
I can't remember, but I think this was my idea as I was changing over so many magnetic ballast to electronic. But tbh I'm not entirely sure 🤔I know there were some ideas that where mine but I haven't got clue which ones they were 🤷🏻♂️ I know I used to bring random bits home from work and just have a chat and then thought "Has anyone ever done a video like this before?" n went from there. There were quite a few videos we did that never aired because they weren't funny or interesting enough.
UL has nothing on Photon... I would feel much better if my appliances all said Photon Laboratory Certified....
dude, you must get paid the big bucks for all that knowledge in that muscle.
Are those electronic ballasts variable range? They kicked in pretty early.
hi pal i have a uv lamp which is pls 2 pin 36w my chinese replacement ballest blown up brandnew so i want a metal one what type of ballest would i need thanks lads
Two new PhotonicInduction videos is a great way to start a weekend!
that shit not doing to bad taking over nearly double.
i would still love to know if its possible to over rev a ceiling fan?! i suspect the motor wouldnt have enough torque though??
I will sleep better at night knowing the fuse on the substation will pop before the lights do. But then I sleep during the day...
Viewer # 230 :D
Ah, Mr Photon, you popped them. :D
I guessed right what would happen in this vid, and what would give out first. Imagine that....the lights are on, a small power spike....... *POP* Oh dear!!
Yes, the other set would've taken that power spike & kept on trucking afterwards, as demonstrated when you re-connected the power after the first poppage.
So, how did you manage to exceed 240v? Did you use The Mega MOT ?
Whenever The Mega MOT comes out to play, there's poppage! :D
-BBD.
The old-school magnetic ballast was way more robust when dealing with overvoltage :D who would have guessed.
much better than leds
40s and science go well together
Why don't you find an industrial-class quality electronic ballast? The one featured in the video didn't even have something as basic as overvoltage protection.
And one more idea for future, may be get some High Voltage from big transformer 10kv and put them into OLD TV vacuum bulb display. connect all outer pins on the gun for 1 terminal and second one into top HV terminal... just think about this.
Out of interest, what was spraying out of that blown capacitor?
Some one should answer what a ballast is. For those of us who are here for smoke and sparks.
I rather like the videos where Photon explained the principles he was having fun with or some information about the items he was tinkering with. That's what I like, the information followed by excessive application of said information.
I love PL Bulbs
good informational vid lol i like the older ballasts better!!
damn, your stella bottles are completely different from ours.. nice pops :)
did anyone see the two screws move in 4.40?
what is the light calld what you put the booze on
I feel like the meter helped?
electronic is a better effect but I do like the beer test to see if the magnetic has blown
That hissing is the capacitor over on the left losing it's shit.
i am surprised at that cap to, i thought it would have popped at 400 :D what was that cap rated?
05:53 that snorting laugh made me laugh even harder :)
I'm not sure what's around where you are, but I got some $10 LED bulbs- it all depends on where you live, but LEDs are way better than florescents in my opinion and should be used if practical to do so.
an LED bulb may last 3 years at most, while a magnetically ballasted fluorescent fixture can easily outlive you if you don't abuse it.
@@coalthedergsune I still have some LED bulbs that I was using when I wrote that comment ten years ago, so that's not true. And those that did go out in that time went bad because the circuit in the base got too warm; the LEDs themselves were fine and new ones don't make as much heat. Old fluorescent tubes get dim and hard to start.
Can I have one of your old Variacs?
One that complained? >_
Why do you think he would do that
That was weird! I smelled burning components when I saw this! The power of suggestion is strong indeed!!!! WOW! I am another mad scientist Hellbent for High voltage stuff! I make Tesla coils for fun, 9 so far and many more to go. thanks, that was cool!
Whats with that weird purple spot around 3:25?
Thanks for answer, this is a good idea. But not so brutal for us, you know... may be put light bulbs into Inductional heater coil. In over voltage )))
I'd hardly call having a lamp outlast the control gear better overall. I'll admit on paper electronic is far superior but the problem is they just can't do the hours. One of my mates is a sparky and has a skip full of dead high frequency ballasts!
hahaha that the same place i go good old Edmensons :0) nice tests man
Did you use the "mega MOT" or rewired variac?
You popped it Nice................
I knew the magnetic ballast would be tougher then the electronic one. So many parts that can fail inside that thing and if one part fails, no more light bulb. Could you please tell me what kind of ballast those are for the magnetic type? I have done most of my own work with fluorescent bulbs and as i went bigger in bulb size i found i could not get a 40 watt T12 bulb to kick on in the same way i turned on all smaller sized bulbs..... any ideas you may have please hit me up. Keep up the good work m8 and stay uh.... safe? heh l8terz man.
what does the beeping indicate?
Must have been a 400v cap, where a 200v cap would suffice in the states.
wow a light bulb still lit even when there is no ppwer going to it thats prety good
I think you popped it.
Fantastic
Richard Hammonds doppelganger
I feel like you could run a small aluminum smelter out of your house.
What's a ballast do?
Magnetic ballast every time for the win. There are magnetic chokes out there that have been in service for over 50 years! With even the best electronic your lucky to get 5 years out of them and the cheapo Chinese ones are even worse! Magnetic ballasts are also less damaging to the environment when they are disposed of as they are only copper and iron, no electronics with nasty chemicals ect...
looked like red hair guy was trying to hide a joint in his hand at very beginning
Consider too though, that the electronic device may have a much better tube life and cold weather performance because of its pulse-start capability instead of relying on starting filaments like the magnetic.
The electronic will always fail first when driven overvoltage, as these guys demonstrated the cap ruptures- they are typically sized to 2x the maximum voltage rating, with many ballasts auto-adjusting to input voltage.