Yeah, I stopped almost all of my talking to mine about drones, a while ago. She expressed how she's had enough drone talk and DOESN'T REALLY CARE! LOL 🤣🤷
I got a few of these. 1 has gone into a tinytrainer v2 build that is still in progress. Another went into a bassline frame hdzero build. Everything seems pretty on point with the board. There is a low count of uarts, but this seems fine for most toothpick builds. Lacking blackbox might make tuning a bit of a struggle. For most frames with whoop oriented mounting, you have to rotate 45 degrees on yaw as you mentioned, or if you flip the FC it's 180 on roll and -135 on yaw. With the board flipped, I tried 270 on yaw and it took me a little bit to figure out -135 was the answer.
There are larger pads on the flip-side of the board for soldering your motor wires, you can see them in the diagram on the right side. Got 2 of these on order for some Avatar builds in the works! Thanks Nick!
Yep. The original Crux35 board has the same motor pads on the top of the board. They don't look like typical motor pads, the three pads aren't parallel to each other (the left and right ones are horizontal while the middle is vertical) so, they are easy to miss. Motor plugs need to die, in my opinion. I always remove the sockets from any board that I get that has them ( I just now removed them from a Crux3 1S). I don't understand why the Crux35, which is a 4S quad, came with them installed. TinyWhoops, I can understand but, not a 4S quad.
@@kurtzFPV I didn't, I just removed the sockets as soon as I got it. I've flown many other quads with them before (I have over 70 quads), and every time, they have less voltage sag without the connectors. So now, I don't even think about it, off they come. Same thing with any PH2.0 connectors, those get instantly replaced with BT2.0 or XT30.
Thanks for this video. I just bought this board to replace my crux35 board because I burned an esc on my very first flight with it. There’s hardly any info for new people and I had no idea what it meant about the short connect from 5v to E5. Love your channel dude!
Just HD-Zero with my experience, but on my 1S Whoops I've been doing straight to VBAT like most everyone else. As for larger, I've gone straight to VBat for a 2S Tinyhawk II FS conversion and straight to VBat for a 3S Tiny Trainer. Whoop Lite VTX's on them all.
I used the 5v reg pad on the trashcan for my Walksnail build. Apart from having the camera upside down in a blue beebrain canopy when I powered up for the first time the magic smoke didn't come out. Success!!!! I've only got in on 25mw so that would help. Not sure the 5v reg on the board wound handle the full output. playing it safe. Good vid as usual. Tempting to do the same build. I have a few 1s boards. A good excuse. As if we need one..
Thanks for the video, good little board to keep in mind for some smaller quads. HDZero shipping sometime this month, good note to be using the 5v pads. I've done that many times for analog VTXs. If it asks for 5v that's what I solder it to. Enjoy the nice weather, we just had a bit of hail and more rain to follow. Cheers!
Yes, those are what are called itty-bitty solder pads! Very close together is what gets me... The size isn't an issue, it's the close proximity to each other! Happymodel needs to understand it makes this board "expert soldering skills only". I'm very used to soldering HM's boards, but they've got to WAKE UP and design boards without such a high degree of difficulty to solder to! There's are probably, honestly, THE WORST! 🤦🙄 NICE VIDEO NICK! Great to see you delve into the digital systems! Keep up the good work, Bro! 😎🤘
You looked at the wrong side of the board when you stated that they are not intended for soldering. The other side explicitly has space for cables (based on the images you show in that scene)
This board is actually super easy to solder to… as they added nice big square pads along the pin pads with really good separation (as you mentioned) to make it easy for an amateur to solder the motors. The rest of the pads are also no big deal to work with. I personally really like the board, and find it really well layed out and easy to work on. I’m also using it on Avatar and HDZero lightweight digital builds, one 1202.5 2S and one 1303.5 300mAh 4S
somewhat true. The non usb side does have larger solder pads for motor wires, they are smaller than other AIO motor solder pads like the flywoo f450, and the connectors come soldered on removal is a chore. The proximity of the motor solder pads from one to another are very close
Hi Nick, Great video and review of the Crazy F4 ELRS, I found my favorite quad board is discontinued, and I'm looking for a new one, and this one could be it. Thanks again for the video and information.
"I like to fly ans she encourages me to fly" is exactly the relationship between me and my wife and its so beautiful. I just love my wife 😍. She is awesome.
I used a 1S Avatar vtx on my first build replacing the analog vtx on my Eachine Trashcan, it's a 2S whoop. I've solder it to the 5v pad like you did, I'm often getting the overheat warning but it usually happens if I take my time before taking off or when it takes more time than normal to find my whoop after a crash. I don't know if it's related or not since I haven't built a true 1S with the Avatar system.
Thermail warnings from the AIO isn't unsual. so much so I disable that osd element. It happens on analog builds as well. I haven't seen any damage or real performance issue with that heat warning.
@@NickBurnsFPV the warning I'm talking about is from the Avatar VTX warning, it goes close to 100 C degree quite fast sometimes. But I never encountered thermal cutoff of the VTX.
I wish it came with the motor connectors soldered on, I've got 2 crux35's and really want to convert the one that's frsky to elrs as well but after building a macro pad with 12 4 pin RGB led's I'm sooooo over soldering stuff with 1/2 a mm of pin spacing lol
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks! I flew it today. It was awesome. Happymodel should release a version without the motor plugs and big motor solderpads. Stuck this AIO on a FPVCycle toothpick frame.
Just Curious, At 3:27 I noticed that under Board and Sensor Alignment that the First Gyro was at CW 90º . What is the reason for this. Just Curious. Thanks for your Awesome content
Hi Nick, another great review as always! On the extra motor connectors, isn't one set for motor plugs at 90 degrees from the board like a whoop and the other set with the motor plugs parallel to the board?
nice video as always! would you buy motors with the right JST conncectors preinstalled or just buy any motor (right size and KV of course) and solder the cables on a connector?
Good day to you, I really appreciate most of your videos and reactions, im just new to this hobby, and recently bought this flight controller, kinda wondering what uart number is ER and ET that was mentioned in the catalogue. Thank you for your reply in advance. Habe a nice day.
Do you mean Rx and Tx? this page has the wire map for the flight controller. www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2023/02/07/happymodel-crazyf411-elrs-aio-4in1-flight-controller-built-in-uart-2-4g-elrs-and-20a-esc-for-toothpick/
Recently got another ELRS Crux35 and love the way they fly for outdoor stuff but I was sad to see it still had the AON7934 mosfets which are rated at 13-15A. I would feel a lot more comfortable with 20A like the Frsky version 4 in 1 has. I am curious how your two Crux35's have held up? I try to keep my 4s pack size 100g or under and have limited the motors to 90%.
My crux35s haven't had much recent flight this winter. I need to fire them back up. not sure if its the hdzero one or analog one, but last I recall one didn't have osd anymore. Otherwise they were working fine.
I have had 2 crux35 hds since they were first released with the 12a boards. I shared your concerns at the beginning, but they have been rock solid over hundreds of flights. I've gone through a fair amount of bottom plates though😂
Great review and flight footage. I was looking at this board for my crux35 HD build(naked Vista) I didn't go with it because I saw it may use the ICM42688P gyro, I saw some videos with concerns about it. You have any info on its performance, does yours have that gyro? Yours is flying super. Thanks Nick, happy flying. 😎
It’s an amazing gyro, one of my all time favourite, but it is very sensitive to voltage ripple and poor board design. The only truly bad implementation I have seen is the JHEMCU GHF420AIO-ICM. Which is weird as JHEMCU generally has great board designs, it happened at the height of the component shortages, so was likely an anomaly. All other implementations have generally been amazing! Happymodel boards are generally very well designed/performing and they work with the community. It is one of my favourite companies to interact/work with.
Got one of these after I saw your great videos with the crux35, but I'm unable to connect with betaflight configurator via USB, tried with different cables and computers to make sure everything is ok, the flight controller power up when I plug in the USB Mine is this model from ali as UART ELRS and should be with 20A ESC
Can i mount a flight controller+ esc stack? I really dont like having aio boards and if something breaks will be cheaper to replace. Looking forward to build one of these micros
Good day sir, I already bult a tiny whoop with this flight controller, I bind the receiver to my transmitter, now i'm having issues with regards to aux switches, they are not responding to betaflight configurator, quad is not arming, and so as the other aux switches, and also the model in betaflight is not responding when I move the gimbals. Thanks for your response.
I have found that wiring to the 5v pad doesnt work on all FCs. On the Superbee F4 when hard on the throttle the VTX shuts down on me so i have had to wire straight o the battery. other FCs like the BetaFPV F4 12a AIO work fine (i run Walksnail VTX)
Hey Nick! I am somewhat new to the fpv drone hobby, and have decided to start by totally designing my own small 1s quad. I am trying to make it so I can fly both indoors and outdoors. Do you have any suggestions on it? I know building a drone probably isn't the best way to get into the hobby but I like the idea of making a drone that is unique too me.
I would suggest a 75mm whoop type build. the hardware side is about as simple as it gets in fpv and can safely be flown indoor and does pretty well outdoor. As your flight skills progress you may find that is a quad format you love or decide to add one without prop protection for more performance.
Hello Nick. I recently recieved my analog crux35 with the latest crazyf411 elrs uart version. I flashed my tx12 mk2 elrs with v.3.2.1 and would like to do the same with the elrs on the aio, but im confused because i dont know which rx in elrs configurator to choose. Ep1, Ep1/2, epw5, epw6 or pp? I'm used to flash elrs by passthrough while the drone is plugged to the laptop with usb cable. Could You explain how to flash the latest elrs version on this AIO to match the elrs version on the radio?
Plug in usb. Wait a full minute for wifi to turn on and connect the laptop to that wifi. After it connects type in 10.0.0.1 in a browser. This will show the device target in the center below the elrs logo
@@NickBurnsFPV thank you. I found it it's EP1/2. Although i couldn't flash elrs by passthrough or uart. I did it by wifi but when it was building i was connected to home wifi and in the last seconds when it tried to install on fc i connected to the drone wifi and it succeded. Bind on elrs 3.2.1. Now i have issue with inverted sticks where throttle is when roll ussually is (left throttle) while bf shows normally AETR1234, and camera shows osd in googles but no video just colur lines. It's my second drone. It propably has something to do with caddx ant configuration or changing PAL-NTSC in bf (my goggles are betafpv vr03)
@@NickBurnsFPV lens cap i off. The controls were set up dufferently in BF so i changed to AETR and it worked. Camera worked after battery plig in, another time didnt work, and next battery plugin worked again. Strange. Drone testing tomorrow. Thank You for Your help
@@SmasherFPV23 Sounds like the camera might not be getting consistent power. Might have a poor solder joint. If it continues to be a pain might try resoldering the red and black wires from the camera to the flight controller.
@@DannyFPV04 I have noticed certain elrs rx have to either wait longer or reposition the quad for my desktop wifi to pick it up. Could be some have high signal strength
wow !!!! What another great video....I would love to own one of these to review on my channel and to get to just enjoy flying .....Thank you so much for your commitment and devotionto all of this andeverything you do and help us all with ...God Bless
@@NickBurnsFPV thanks for your reply. I'll be trying to solder a caddx vista to this. All 6 wires hopefully so I have sbus option if necessary. Could you advise how I do that I'm very confused. Thanks in advance
@@DanDmma power and ground should go to the top of the pads for the battery ground and bat+. Wire from rx2 to tx and tx2 to rx. I don't see an sbus pad so we will need to use rx1 as sbus. Also the 5v and E5 have to be connected to disable the onboard elrs receiver in order to use sbus. cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2778/6650/files/8_8629d6d5-620d-40d4-a752-b8936146e629.jpg?v=1677626154
@@NickBurnsFPV what is your opinion and expirience with this very Gyro? Is it have to be set in different way than MPU6000? Or just it doesn't matter at all.
Hi Nick! I just wanna let you know something about your audio - your at-desk mic picks up a faint buzz all the time. I usually have my headphones turned way up for gaming and I can hear it in all your videos. However the actually annoying thing is that when you pause talking, your filters send the output down to zero so the buzz also pauses. It's quite distracting! One example in this video is at 0:18, "I don't have any flight audio, but we'll talk about why -PAUSE- in that flight footage". Thanks for everything you do!
yes, I hear it to and I have tried adjusting the audio so that it doesn't do it, without much success. I suspect I need a higher quality mic. Being frugal I have resisted spending on another.
The spare set of connectors are for motor plugs coming out the bottom, the installed connectors are 90 degree connectors. Great review Nick!
When my wife asks if I'm gonna go fly, it's usually because she is tired of me talking to her.. a nice way to say "go away and leave me alone"
Exactly👍
Lol
Yeah, I stopped almost all of my talking to mine about drones, a while ago. She expressed how she's had enough drone talk and DOESN'T REALLY CARE! LOL 🤣🤷
Lmao, bet you got a whole lot of conversation starters ready.
Salute
maybe that was her intent as well. Lucky for her I am so literal I didn't take it that way :)
burns ur the best much respect for everything u do for us thank u for all ur hard work and time u have taken to give us
I got a few of these. 1 has gone into a tinytrainer v2 build that is still in progress. Another went into a bassline frame hdzero build. Everything seems pretty on point with the board. There is a low count of uarts, but this seems fine for most toothpick builds. Lacking blackbox might make tuning a bit of a struggle. For most frames with whoop oriented mounting, you have to rotate 45 degrees on yaw as you mentioned, or if you flip the FC it's 180 on roll and -135 on yaw. With the board flipped, I tried 270 on yaw and it took me a little bit to figure out -135 was the answer.
No black box is a good call out. I am so micro eccentric I tune by flight and feel. Very very rarely have I looked at black box.
There are larger pads on the flip-side of the board for soldering your motor wires, you can see them in the diagram on the right side. Got 2 of these on order for some Avatar builds in the works! Thanks Nick!
Yep. The original Crux35 board has the same motor pads on the top of the board. They don't look like typical motor pads, the three pads aren't parallel to each other (the left and right ones are horizontal while the middle is vertical) so, they are easy to miss.
Motor plugs need to die, in my opinion. I always remove the sockets from any board that I get that has them ( I just now removed them from a Crux3 1S). I don't understand why the Crux35, which is a 4S quad, came with them installed. TinyWhoops, I can understand but, not a 4S quad.
@@Temporal_Fluxdid you fly your crux35 before direct soldering, and if you did, did you see a significant difference after the direct solder?
@@kurtzFPV I didn't, I just removed the sockets as soon as I got it. I've flown many other quads with them before (I have over 70 quads), and every time, they have less voltage sag without the connectors. So now, I don't even think about it, off they come. Same thing with any PH2.0 connectors, those get instantly replaced with BT2.0 or XT30.
Thanks for this video. I just bought this board to replace my crux35 board because I burned an esc on my very first flight with it. There’s hardly any info for new people and I had no idea what it meant about the short connect from 5v to E5. Love your channel dude!
Yes, i wire to a 5v pad and the ws lite works fine.
Fantastic flying and review, Nick! 😃
I really liked the frame! Looks really sturdy!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I'm building one today, planned on using 5v, I'll let you know.
Just HD-Zero with my experience, but on my 1S Whoops I've been doing straight to VBAT like most everyone else. As for larger, I've gone straight to VBat for a 2S Tinyhawk II FS conversion and straight to VBat for a 3S Tiny Trainer. Whoop Lite VTX's on them all.
I used the 5v reg pad on the trashcan for my Walksnail build. Apart from having the camera upside down in a blue beebrain canopy when I powered up for the first time the magic smoke didn't come out. Success!!!! I've only got in on 25mw so that would help. Not sure the 5v reg on the board wound handle the full output. playing it safe. Good vid as usual. Tempting to do the same build. I have a few 1s boards. A good excuse. As if we need one..
Ooh, me likes that one! Side-facing USB and hopefully can get it w/o motor connectors to save a little weight (shown without on that web page)
My recent crux35 came with this board and i love it!
I thought they might be swapping the boards out on the crux35. Go to know they are irl.
Thanks for the video, good little board to keep in mind for some smaller quads. HDZero shipping sometime this month, good note to be using the 5v pads. I've done that many times for analog VTXs. If it asks for 5v that's what I solder it to. Enjoy the nice weather, we just had a bit of hail and more rain to follow. Cheers!
Yes, those are what are called itty-bitty solder pads! Very close together is what gets me... The size isn't an issue, it's the close proximity to each other! Happymodel needs to understand it makes this board "expert soldering skills only". I'm very used to soldering HM's boards, but they've got to WAKE UP and design boards without such a high degree of difficulty to solder to! There's are probably, honestly, THE WORST! 🤦🙄
NICE VIDEO NICK! Great to see you delve into the digital systems! Keep up the good work, Bro! 😎🤘
Buy and use quality flux
the motor pads on opposite side of board are waaay bigger, look closely at the picture. that is the side that's meant for soldering
The motor pads for direct soldering are on the underside and they seem bigger.
yes, we can't see them on my boards with the connector, imho the pads need more spacing
The motor connectors are straight vs 90 degree for use in whoop style frames I think. Was here looking if I might make it work in the mobula8 for 3s
The spare connectors are straight, as apposed to the 90° ones installed on the board :)
You looked at the wrong side of the board when you stated that they are not intended for soldering.
The other side explicitly has space for cables (based on the images you show in that scene)
This board is actually super easy to solder to… as they added nice big square pads along the pin pads with really good separation (as you mentioned) to make it easy for an amateur to solder the motors. The rest of the pads are also no big deal to work with.
I personally really like the board, and find it really well layed out and easy to work on.
I’m also using it on Avatar and HDZero lightweight digital builds, one 1202.5 2S and one 1303.5 300mAh 4S
somewhat true. The non usb side does have larger solder pads for motor wires, they are smaller than other AIO motor solder pads like the flywoo f450, and the connectors come soldered on removal is a chore. The proximity of the motor solder pads from one to another are very close
@@lemonsquareFPV Hey, what elrs target / name does it use, EP series?
@@cccagley5276 yes, you got it, Happymodel EP ELRS target
Great review and build Nick👍🙏👍🙏
I am doing the same. I have 1S Avatar wired to 5v on my AIO board, 2S build. I have never had a problem. I have 2 of these builds, actually.
Nick, when you flashed the ELRS receiver, what model / target did you use? EP series?
used the ep1 target
Hi Nick, Great video and review of the Crazy F4 ELRS, I found my favorite quad board is discontinued, and I'm looking for a new one, and this one could be it. Thanks again for the video and information.
Thank you for 45 degree yaw suggestion. It wouldnt work otherwise, and it's not mounted at 45 degrees.
"I like to fly ans she encourages me to fly" is exactly the relationship between me and my wife and its so beautiful. I just love my wife 😍. She is awesome.
I used a 1S Avatar vtx on my first build replacing the analog vtx on my Eachine Trashcan, it's a 2S whoop. I've solder it to the 5v pad like you did, I'm often getting the overheat warning but it usually happens if I take my time before taking off or when it takes more time than normal to find my whoop after a crash. I don't know if it's related or not since I haven't built a true 1S with the Avatar system.
Thermail warnings from the AIO isn't unsual. so much so I disable that osd element. It happens on analog builds as well. I haven't seen any damage or real performance issue with that heat warning.
@@NickBurnsFPV the warning I'm talking about is from the Avatar VTX warning, it goes close to 100 C degree quite fast sometimes. But I never encountered thermal cutoff of the VTX.
@@FredCharlebois AH yes, I understand better now
I wish it came with the motor connectors soldered on, I've got 2 crux35's and really want to convert the one that's frsky to elrs as well but after building a macro pad with 12 4 pin RGB led's I'm sooooo over soldering stuff with 1/2 a mm of pin spacing lol
It does come with the connectors soldered on. At least the two I have did. The connectors I show separately those are spares.
@@NickBurnsFPV ohh awesome! I misunderstood lol
Hell yea! Thanks for the review, picked this board up and was wondering how to orient it.
the battery pads go towards the rear with the motor plugs down.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks! I flew it today. It was awesome.
Happymodel should release a version without the motor plugs and big motor solderpads.
Stuck this AIO on a FPVCycle toothpick frame.
Just Curious, At 3:27 I noticed that under Board and Sensor Alignment that the First Gyro was at CW 90º . What is the reason for this. Just Curious.
Thanks for your Awesome content
It must be the orientation of that gyro as that is how it was setup by default.
Can I install motor plugs on the other side of the flight controller
I have broken two connectors on two separate boards. One NBD and one Happymodel. That's just me though. I find problems.😂
Hi Nick, another great review as always! On the extra motor connectors, isn't one set for motor plugs at 90 degrees from the board like a whoop and the other set with the motor plugs parallel to the board?
oh I think you may be correct. Something I hadn't noticed before. Thanks for calling that out.
nice video as always! would you buy motors with the right JST conncectors preinstalled or just buy any motor (right size and KV of course) and solder the cables on a connector?
I have installed the connectors many times and it works fine. It's not the cleanest way, but no problem.
yes, we can solder on connectors. I don't tend to do that anymore. I will buy an AIO designed to solder on motor wires, or buy motors with connectors.
Good day to you, I really appreciate most of your videos and reactions, im just new to this hobby, and recently bought this flight controller, kinda wondering what uart number is ER and ET that was mentioned in the catalogue. Thank you for your reply in advance. Habe a nice day.
Do you mean Rx and Tx? this page has the wire map for the flight controller. www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2023/02/07/happymodel-crazyf411-elrs-aio-4in1-flight-controller-built-in-uart-2-4g-elrs-and-20a-esc-for-toothpick/
Recently got another ELRS Crux35 and love the way they fly for outdoor stuff but I was sad to see it still had the AON7934 mosfets which are rated at 13-15A. I would feel a lot more comfortable with 20A like the Frsky version 4 in 1 has. I am curious how your two Crux35's have held up? I try to keep my 4s pack size 100g or under and have limited the motors to 90%.
My crux35s haven't had much recent flight this winter. I need to fire them back up. not sure if its the hdzero one or analog one, but last I recall one didn't have osd anymore. Otherwise they were working fine.
My osd acted up the other day on my analog Crux35. I had to unplug the battery and plug in back in for the osd to come on.
I have had 2 crux35 hds since they were first released with the 12a boards. I shared your concerns at the beginning, but they have been rock solid over hundreds of flights. I've gone through a fair amount of bottom plates though😂
Great review and flight footage. I was looking at this board for my crux35 HD build(naked Vista) I didn't go with it because I saw it may use the ICM42688P gyro, I saw some videos with concerns about it. You have any info on its performance, does yours have that gyro? Yours is flying super. Thanks Nick, happy flying. 😎
Good question!
I have a couple of HappyModel ICM42688p boards and they work perfectly (BF 4.4).
@@cccagley5276 Great to know! Thanks!
@@cccagley5276 thanks, that's good to know. 👍🤓
It’s an amazing gyro, one of my all time favourite, but it is very sensitive to voltage ripple and poor board design.
The only truly bad implementation I have seen is the JHEMCU GHF420AIO-ICM. Which is weird as JHEMCU generally has great board designs, it happened at the height of the component shortages, so was likely an anomaly. All other implementations have generally been amazing!
Happymodel boards are generally very well designed/performing and they work with the community. It is one of my favourite companies to interact/work with.
Great video Nick.. not relevant to anything, but what size motors did you use on that build? Thinking about a 2.5 walksnail build
1102 10000kv from geprc
@@NickBurnsFPV wow.. was expecting 1103 1104. Nice!
Got one of these after I saw your great videos with the crux35, but I'm unable to connect with betaflight configurator via USB, tried with different cables and computers to make sure everything is ok, the flight controller power up when I plug in the USB
Mine is this model from ali as UART ELRS and should be with 20A ESC
any other flight controllers connect to this same computer with the same usb cable?
@@NickBurnsFPV No worries, just got connection now in another port om my computer 🤣👍 thanx for your response 😊👍
Can i mount a flight controller+ esc stack? I really dont like having aio boards and if something breaks will be cheaper to replace. Looking forward to build one of these micros
sure the only mounting is for whoop/aio mounting 25.5x25.5
How heavy is your HD Quad? I built my KH2walks with Twiglet Mini 2inch frame, BetaFPV AIO F4 and weigh 40g with battery strap.
49.5grams
Excellent video
Need to build more whoops for racing. Would you use this board for a light racer? Does it crash well?
It’s a great board but 2S minimum and over 5 grams so not suitable for whoop racing. My 0.02
I would likely only use it for a 2s hd whoop. It doesn't do 1s and after we add vtx isn't as light as other 5in1 AIOS
i am surprised they did not include the capacitor.
a capacitor in the AIO package? I haven't been using them on smaller builds less than 4s.
Would this work with the nanohawk x?
Is this board compatible with the Newbeedrone Mosquito 2s?
not the micro motors (connectors), camera included that newbeedrone sells, but otherwise yes.
Good day sir, I already bult a tiny whoop with this flight controller, I bind the receiver to my transmitter, now i'm having issues with regards to aux switches, they are not responding to betaflight configurator, quad is not arming, and so as the other aux switches, and also the model in betaflight is not responding when I move the gimbals. Thanks for your response.
Is the model file on the radio setup to use the switches as aux. Check the channel monitor on the radio when you move the switches.
I'm using radiomaster tx12 elrs edge tx version as my transmitter, yup I already setup my radio to a model and aux switches.
@@lodovicocarlos4522 sounds like the quad is not bound to the radio. No stick or switch movement in betaflight indicates its not bound.
I have found that wiring to the 5v pad doesnt work on all FCs. On the Superbee F4 when hard on the throttle the VTX shuts down on me so i have had to wire straight o the battery. other FCs like the BetaFPV F4 12a AIO work fine (i run Walksnail VTX)
ah seems the 5v regulator isn't up to the task on that one. hopefully there was no damage when the vtx shutdown?
@@NickBurnsFPV No all was ok thanks
just got the crux35, it has this board in, i wasn't aware it had no spare uarts until i plugged it into bf this irritated me lol
Seems like the crux35 has had several different flight controllers in it.
@@NickBurnsFPV ya lol, I was going to put gps on it, might have to soft serial !
4:40 please listen to this, don't make the mistake I did and fry your aio board, not fun. Also love those pink props 😂
Hey Nick! I am somewhat new to the fpv drone hobby, and have decided to start by totally designing my own small 1s quad. I am trying to make it so I can fly both indoors and outdoors. Do you have any suggestions on it? I know building a drone probably isn't the best way to get into the hobby but I like the idea of making a drone that is unique too me.
I would suggest a 75mm whoop type build. the hardware side is about as simple as it gets in fpv and can safely be flown indoor and does pretty well outdoor. As your flight skills progress you may find that is a quad format you love or decide to add one without prop protection for more performance.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thank you sir 😁
Will this fit a 85mm whoop? Also, what battery are you using?
yes it should. The battery is a GNB 520mah 2s
Awesome flight and review. And awesome wife u have too!
Great video!
Can I make this as an analog build with elrs?
yes it will be fine with any fpv video system
are their drivers that needs to be installed on windows to connect it
Yes, all the flight controllers require the drivers linked on the front page of the betaflight configuration application.
🤐 don’t tell ‘em about the unicorn blood…. They’ll be after you now…. 😱
Hello Nick. I recently recieved my analog crux35 with the latest crazyf411 elrs uart version. I flashed my tx12 mk2 elrs with v.3.2.1 and would like to do the same with the elrs on the aio, but im confused because i dont know which rx in elrs configurator to choose. Ep1, Ep1/2, epw5, epw6 or pp? I'm used to flash elrs by passthrough while the drone is plugged to the laptop with usb cable. Could You explain how to flash the latest elrs version on this AIO to match the elrs version on the radio?
Plug in usb. Wait a full minute for wifi to turn on and connect the laptop to that wifi. After it connects type in 10.0.0.1 in a browser. This will show the device target in the center below the elrs logo
@@NickBurnsFPV thank you. I found it it's EP1/2. Although i couldn't flash elrs by passthrough or uart. I did it by wifi but when it was building i was connected to home wifi and in the last seconds when it tried to install on fc i connected to the drone wifi and it succeded. Bind on elrs 3.2.1. Now i have issue with inverted sticks where throttle is when roll ussually is (left throttle) while bf shows normally AETR1234, and camera shows osd in googles but no video just colur lines. It's my second drone. It propably has something to do with caddx ant configuration or changing PAL-NTSC in bf (my goggles are betafpv vr03)
@@SmasherFPV23 We need to match the channel map in betaflight to the channel map the radio is set to. By chance is the lens cap on the camera?
@@NickBurnsFPV lens cap i off. The controls were set up dufferently in BF so i changed to AETR and it worked. Camera worked after battery plig in, another time didnt work, and next battery plugin worked again. Strange. Drone testing tomorrow. Thank You for Your help
@@SmasherFPV23 Sounds like the camera might not be getting consistent power. Might have a poor solder joint. If it continues to be a pain might try resoldering the red and black wires from the camera to the flight controller.
I can’t seem to find the WiFi access point. The controller goes into WiFi mode, but I can’t find it. Do you remember what the access point is called?
Its called Expresslrs
@@NickBurnsFPV so obvious lol. 😂 I was able to find it on my laptop WiFi but not desktop WiFi. Super weird.
@@DannyFPV04 I have noticed certain elrs rx have to either wait longer or reposition the quad for my desktop wifi to pick it up. Could be some have high signal strength
Nick, please do a video showing this build in detail? Please!
I'm addicted to micros and it's your fault! ❤
wow !!!! What another great video....I would love to own one of these to review on my channel and to get to just enjoy flying .....Thank you so much for your commitment and devotionto all of this andeverything you do and help us all with ...God Bless
How do I add the connectors for the vtx?
connectors for vtx? Typically we solder the video wires to the board. Depending on which video system which solder pads we would use.
@@NickBurnsFPV thanks for your reply. I'll be trying to solder a caddx vista to this. All 6 wires hopefully so I have sbus option if necessary. Could you advise how I do that I'm very confused.
Thanks in advance
Initially I'd thought I could add a jst like on the X1 , as it's a Cruz replacement. But not I'm just at a loss which pads to solder the caddx to
@@DanDmma power and ground should go to the top of the pads for the battery ground and bat+. Wire from rx2 to tx and tx2 to rx. I don't see an sbus pad so we will need to use rx1 as sbus. Also the 5v and E5 have to be connected to disable the onboard elrs receiver in order to use sbus. cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2778/6650/files/8_8629d6d5-620d-40d4-a752-b8936146e629.jpg?v=1677626154
Which Gyro he's been used on this AIO?
ICM2688P or BM1270
The two I have are both ICM42688P
@@NickBurnsFPV what is your opinion and expirience with this very Gyro? Is it have to be set in different way than MPU6000? Or just it doesn't matter at all.
@@w1llyFPV Seems to work fine for me. I hear that it can be sensitive to overall board design, but I can't validate that.
@@NickBurnsFPV thanks you for your kind reply, I'm your big fan 👌
Hi Nick! I just wanna let you know something about your audio - your at-desk mic picks up a faint buzz all the time. I usually have my headphones turned way up for gaming and I can hear it in all your videos. However the actually annoying thing is that when you pause talking, your filters send the output down to zero so the buzz also pauses. It's quite distracting! One example in this video is at 0:18, "I don't have any flight audio, but we'll talk about why -PAUSE- in that flight footage".
Thanks for everything you do!
yes, I hear it to and I have tried adjusting the audio so that it doesn't do it, without much success. I suspect I need a higher quality mic. Being frugal I have resisted spending on another.
@@NickBurnsFPV very wise with the world the way it is!
No such thing as Luck. That being said; How much for an ounce of that "Unicorn Dust"?
Salute
Unicorn dust isn't for sale. It must be conjurned :)
@@NickBurnsFPV Damn, I knew it.
Salute
Hi Nick, I think not F7 but if we didn't send it to you plus a commission and the profitable video you wouldn't have done anything ? 😜😜
I think I am confused??? F7? Commission??
@@NickBurnsFPV Processor
First!