How To Raise Sagging Floors Under Walls - Crawlspace Repair Ideas
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- www.homebuildin... Click on this link for more information about floor repairs, construction and home renovation. In this video I will provide you with a few ideas how you can use a footing in the center and split the beams or floor joist lengths in half to make it easier to install supporting joist underneath the wall where the floor is sagging because the building wasn't constructed correctly. Don't forget to check out some of our playlists for more tips and ideas about floor repairs.
very educational thank you for sharing your knowledge
Very educational as always. Thank you very much for sharing
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
I know this was 3 yrs ago but great video and thorough explanation!. One question is what to do if plumbing is incorporated in part of the wall?
If you can't move the plumbing, but need to raise the wall, then you will have to separate the plumbing so it won't be affected. However, that usually isn't the case, you can raise the floor and plumbing together. Let me know if that didn't answer your question.
What would you suggest for second story addition with sagging floor where the wall was placed? It seems like a similar situation. Thanks so much for your informative videos. I've watched many of them.
Not an easy fix, but you can add structural beams or reframe floor. Here's a link that might help. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/floors/index2.html
I have a load bearing wall between 2x10s and the floor is sagging between them. I am having to block the joists and then lift up with a 6x6 and a bottle jack and then play a permanent support jack before removing the bottle jack. So far so good. My question is, should I actually expect to lift the wall above it and level the sag or am I simply going to support the wall from further sagging? Thanks!
All you can do is try and hope for the best.
My son purchased a house built in 1978 and discovered the all the subfloors were particleboard (flakeboard) under carpet. He wants to install wood floors, so, he decided to remove the subfloors flush with the drywall (used toe-kick saw). We are not able to add a joists due to electical wires, plumbing, HVAC and of course the joists are not always where we can sister to a joist and the non-load bearing walls are not on a joist. So, we decided to add perpendicular blocking to support the walls and 2x4s parallel to joist to support the new subfloor. For the exterior walls we added 2x4 blocking to support the wall and the edge of the 3/4" plywood. None of the basement ceilings are finished so we have full access except for some HVAC. Hoping we're not missing something here in support. I would add photos but not sure how to do that here.
Sounds like you're on the right path. Keep in mind that I cannot provide you with structural engineering information and you might need to contact a professional in your area to answer any questions about your specific project.
I have this situation, but my sagging wall is a bathroom wall with the plumbing running through it. I’m not sure how to proceed, as both of these methods won’t work. Thanks for the video.
I should have something herewww.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html
@@gregvancomthank you! That’s very much my situation.
If you had a floor that sagged in the middle in each room, like a bowl, wouldn't it be possible to simply attach full length 2x4 or 2x6 boards to the sides of the existing joists so that it corrects the bow in the middle? Then of course give the existing joists extra support with a beam/footings so it doesn't happen again? I was looking at a house to possibly buy today with this issue and I thought of this idea vs the expense of replacing all the existing joists.
That could add more weight and make it sag more. I don't think that will work and I've never seen it as a repair for what you're suggesting.
How would you support the load bearing wall to replace the joist supporting the wall? Is it safe to remove at once and replace? Thanks! Great videos.
I do have more videos on this type of repair at our website in the crawlspace and framing sections.
I'm running into a similar problem. A wall without any joist support, and on top of that, whoever went through and messed with the plumbing (it's a wall separating a bathroom and bedroom) cut out about 5 feet of the bottom plate on that wall. I'm just wondering if I need to cut out the rest of the bottom plate and replace it all together? Or just replace the section they cut out then continue on how your video explains? Or something else?
Hopefully I worded that well enough. Thanks
This method will work to replace a main beam?
I have a similar problem to this, but the load bearing wall is not sitting on a subfloor. It sits on blocks between two joists. The joists are 2x8 old lumber and about 24" apart. The blocks are failing and the two joist have started to splay at the bottom. The house sits on a full basement so I can access all of the load bearing wall. Any help or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
Check out our framing repair videos. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html
Can you tell me how much of a 2x10x16 joist should be on top of beam on both ends with no center support, full span. Thanks.
Most building codes require 1.5 inches or one and one half inches.
Hi, if the top floor is sagging under the beam on the floor and cracking the beam on the bottom, is there a way to fix without putting a support poll in the middle (as this would be in the middle of the basement livingroom)? Thank you in advance.
A support pole might work, but it sounds like the beam should be replaced. There is no easy fix for this one or should I say there's no easy fix that I can think of.
@@gregvancom why not put a beam and pier across the joists?
Is this a similar procedure for a basement with cement floor?
When you stack the blocks up, are you releasing the hydraulic Jack to put the pressure on the blocks then? My crawlspace is dirt, so there's going to be compressed dirt when I drop the jack.
Also, good video!
Another possibility and something that you can compensate for by adding additional materials or blocks.
pour concrete as a base then block if you are doing it this way, id go as deep as you can 4 feet if you get frozen ground that is the frost level and it will not shift, if your in the south you can go more shallow
Do you have any videos showing how to fix a hump in the floor? I have a friend whose kitchen floor decided to have a hump pop up. It's so bad they can't even open up the refrigerator door all the way. Thanks
I will put it on my list of videos to make in the future. The most common reason I can think of will be that a section of the house has settled or lowered into the ground, while the area where the hump is hasn't.
Hello bro. Can u make a video about combination of slab and crawl space foundation plan...
If you can email me a drawing of what you're referring to or provide me with more details about what you're looking for.
Hello bro whats ut email..i will send you an image..
What about using those deck blocks instead of digging and pouring concrete?
I don't think I would use them, because I've never worked on a job where the building department or engineers used them.
What type of wood block would you recommend putting under a hydraulic jack?
And what size?
If you're lifting a lot of weight, then maybe a 3 x 12 or larger. However, sometimes a 2 x 6 will work. You could always start with a smaller board and if it gets pressed into the soil, because of the pressure, then go to larger ones.
@@davidmuniz5307 hardwood not pine
I have a two story house and only half is on a foundation. There is very little crawl space. The outer wall is curved down and sitting on the dirt. And there is some rot where the outer wall where it is tuching the dirt. Would you please make a vedio.
See if you can find a video on this playlist that will be helpful.
Floor Framing Repair Videos - th-cam.com/video/3PwGamkrcyM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/KhhK_hjItXY/w-d-xo.html and maybe this one.
Why couldn't a homeowner just add 2x10 blocking spaced 12" apart perpendicular to the joists in that bay?
I think your suggestion would work just fine as long as the joist that you were going to attached blocking to were not already sagging. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.
:-)
:)
What about the nails protruding through the plywood subflooring, how would you tackle that? Cut each nail flush? Then toe nailing? Thanks, you're the go to videos for me!
I don't know if I'm understanding your question correctly, but any nails can be simply driven back into the floor joist, cut or pulled. I don't understand what you would be toe nailing and glad you like my videos. Feel free to ask another question I didn't provide you with a good answer.
@@gregvancom I'm dealing with the same issue. We have the bottom plate held in place to the subfloor with approximately two million framing nails. I can't rest a board to align with the wall with those framing nails protruding 2" or so into the crawl space right where i'd land the new joist. He's asking if it's a problem to trim those nails off to be flush with the subfloor. I've trimmed old framing nails and it'll eat up a blade by the time you get thru only a few. I think my only option for this same scenario is a lot of blocking and dodging framing nails. Thoughts/advice?
Nice videos man
Appreciate it