Yes you can but I don’t think this will solve your problem. You need to spray with fungicide with active ingredient Chlorothaonil when the growth is still juvenile. Leaves which have hardened odd are not affected. Also I find this condition affects weakened trees so you might also need to allow it to grow out some to gain vigor.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you for the solid advice Terry. Was a gift from a club member so I really dont want to lose it. Will get Fungicide. I really enjoy your videos, I hope you will continue making them. Really enjoyable and educational. Cheers from switzerland
Interesting. I was under the impression till now that lime sulphur is used only on conifers for highlighting deadwood. In that scenario, is it used in its concentrated form or diluted to a lesser extent than what you have used while spraying ? I have never used this product, so pardon my questions.
You are correct that it’s used for preservation of dead wood in conifers which due to the concentration (undiluted) results in a white appearance. However it is used on all trees other than the ones I mentioned as a way to stop over wintering of pests and also fungus which may have built a resistance to fungicides.
Thank you, very informative. Treating my bonsai at this time. I was wondering what do you think about Apple spray and other fruit trees and should it be the same 1:20 solution? Also, when the trees are in the ground do you still need to cover the ground with wet towels or something similar? Besides that it looks bad - does Lime Sulfur damages the roots?
Thanks Alex for these interesting questions. Yes, I would use the same solution. No, no need to cover the ground if the trees are still being field grown as the effect will be hugely diluted when the tree is in a great soil mass. I’d not worry at all. Besides in agriculture they spray lime sulphur normally and they certainly won’t do any effort to cover the soil. Lime sulphur has the potential to kill soil borne bacteria etc however you are not doing a soil drench, rather you are spraying the tree so wetting the soil is incidental.
Hello Terry ! Nice video as always, I was wondering if I could use this winter wash on my portulacaria afras (currently having a pest issue), I tried alcohol and q-tip, soapy water and everything but the pest keeps coming back... any idea?
Thanks for your comment. I am not sure. I guess you could use Lime sulphur on Portulacaria. I don’t think it would create any problems. You might also try something like neemoil or something with a pyrethoid in it.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai maples dont have leaves in winter buy I saw you spraying other trees in the vid with leaves still, you dipped ghaf one tree and I thought "its gonna fry it"
@@kestane123chesmo the tree which I dipped was an olive which is a broadleaf evergreen. The leaves are fine as they hardened off, same with needles on pines and foliage of junipers. I did specify the treatment is a dormancy treatment, hence your maples should have no leaves and therefore nothing bad can happen.
😂 well Alex it did make me laugh when I was editing the footage and saw my exaggerated facial expression when I demonstrated a likely reaction to the odour….
Hello Ja. I believe I said RECENTLY wired and then I explained why. A tree wired months ago would have healed and thus would not be at risk. So to answer your question, no. It would be fine to treat such trees.
Very educational video for me Terry! I have some questions: if i defoliate a japanese or a chinese maple in early summer can I use this method to kill all the bad things? I have some chinese maples that are already infected with fungus because the leaves are deform and then die. The shoots become black. I tried a lot of things and being honest i wil throw away the trees, do you have any advice?
I know how you feel. Judging from other comments made here, it seems like this is becoming an increasingly common problem. I know the issue as anthracnose. I do not know whether you can use lime sulphur during the season. Theoretically it should be fine. What I have done to help control this Problem is to spray with active ingredient Chlorothaonil just as new buds are pushing. So you can defoliate and then spray. Keep spraying with 5-7 day intervals until leaves have hardened off. The fungus seems to be a problem only on tender leaves but presents no problems with mature leaves. You could also then start introducing a good broad spectrum systemic fungicide.
I understand your frustration but I’m afraid even if you do use lime sulphur during dormancy it is highly likely you will still need to treat during active periods of growth.
Absolutely! During the growing season I spray preventative on a monthly basis. I also use a systemic product called Koinor which acts up to 6 months in the plant tissue.
Great collection there Terry 👀
Thank you kindly Wesley!
Great video Terry. Very informative.
Thanks Stephen for watching!
Thank you very much for this very interesting video!👍👍👍👍
Pleasure Roberto!
Thank you Terry, yet another great tutorial :-)
Many thanks.
my maple seems to have a fungal issue (new leaves deform) young growth barely survives. Could Lime sulphur treat this during dormancy?
Yes you can but I don’t think this will solve your problem. You need to spray with fungicide with active ingredient Chlorothaonil when the growth is still juvenile. Leaves which have hardened odd are not affected. Also I find this condition affects weakened trees so you might also need to allow it to grow out some to gain vigor.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you for the solid advice Terry. Was a gift from a club member so I really dont want to lose it. Will get Fungicide.
I really enjoy your videos, I hope you will continue making them. Really enjoyable and educational. Cheers from switzerland
thanks for great explanation
My pleasure!
Ottimo consiglio, grazie
My pleasure, I am glad you found it useful.
Gracias Terry!!
My pleasure!
Interesting. I was under the impression till now that lime sulphur is used only on conifers for highlighting deadwood. In that scenario, is it used in its concentrated form or diluted to a lesser extent than what you have used while spraying ? I have never used this product, so pardon my questions.
You are correct that it’s used for preservation of dead wood in conifers which due to the concentration (undiluted) results in a white appearance. However it is used on all trees other than the ones I mentioned as a way to stop over wintering of pests and also fungus which may have built a resistance to fungicides.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai ...Thank you Terry for clarifying
Thank you, very informative. Treating my bonsai at this time. I was wondering what do you think about Apple spray and other fruit trees and should it be the same 1:20 solution? Also, when the trees are in the ground do you still need to cover the ground with wet towels or something similar? Besides that it looks bad - does Lime Sulfur damages the roots?
Thanks Alex for these interesting questions. Yes, I would use the same solution. No, no need to cover the ground if the trees are still being field grown as the effect will be hugely diluted when the tree is in a great soil mass. I’d not worry at all. Besides in agriculture they spray lime sulphur normally and they certainly won’t do any effort to cover the soil. Lime sulphur has the potential to kill soil borne bacteria etc however you are not doing a soil drench, rather you are spraying the tree so wetting the soil is incidental.
Excellent
Thank you!
Hello Terry ! Nice video as always, I was wondering if I could use this winter wash on my portulacaria afras (currently having a pest issue), I tried alcohol and q-tip, soapy water and everything but the pest keeps coming back... any idea?
Thanks for your comment. I am not sure. I guess you could use Lime sulphur on Portulacaria. I don’t think it would create any problems. You might also try something like neemoil or something with a pyrethoid in it.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Okay thank you !
Nice vid, very informational, wont it kill follage tho 😱 ? can we do this to young japanese maples, will it hurt the tree
Thank you. What variety of Japanese maple do you have that has leaves in winter dormancy please?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai maples dont have leaves in winter buy I saw you spraying other trees in the vid with leaves still, you dipped ghaf one tree and I thought "its gonna fry it"
@@kestane123chesmo the tree which I dipped was an olive which is a broadleaf evergreen. The leaves are fine as they hardened off, same with needles on pines and foliage of junipers. I did specify the treatment is a dormancy treatment, hence your maples should have no leaves and therefore nothing bad can happen.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai what if theyre young tho, 2, 3 years old, by the way will this work for moldy mildy
Thanks Terry, another very in-depth and helpful video. I think you secretly enjoyed filming the scene where you sniffed the bottle haha - am I right?
😂 well Alex it did make me laugh when I was editing the footage and saw my exaggerated facial expression when I demonstrated a likely reaction to the odour….
So any tree with wire on it? What if wire was done a year or more for conifers?
Hello Ja. I believe I said RECENTLY wired and then I explained why. A tree wired months ago would have healed and thus would not be at risk. So to answer your question, no. It would be fine to treat such trees.
How about chojubai, can we apply lime sulfur to those?
Yes you can.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you for the quick response! by the way your channel is very helpful.
@@christiandgreat8127 thanks!
Very educational video for me Terry! I have some questions: if i defoliate a japanese or a chinese maple in early summer can I use this method to kill all the bad things? I have some chinese maples that are already infected with fungus because the leaves are deform and then die. The shoots become black. I tried a lot of things and being honest i wil throw away the trees, do you have any advice?
I know how you feel. Judging from other comments made here, it seems like this is becoming an increasingly common problem. I know the issue as anthracnose. I do not know whether you can use lime sulphur during the season. Theoretically it should be fine. What I have done to help control this Problem is to spray with active ingredient Chlorothaonil just as new buds are pushing. So you can defoliate and then spray. Keep spraying with 5-7 day intervals until leaves have hardened off. The fungus seems to be a problem only on tender leaves but presents no problems with mature leaves. You could also then start introducing a good broad spectrum systemic fungicide.
Interesting. I've never used lime sulfur as a treatment like this before. I usually just use systemic and sprays. And I'm done with it.
I understand your frustration but I’m afraid even if you do use lime sulphur during dormancy it is highly likely you will still need to treat during active periods of growth.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai good point. I'm going to look into this treatment. Maybe for my winter (I'm in USA) coming up later this year.
Terry, do you still use pesticides and fungicides alongside this method?
Absolutely! During the growing season I spray preventative on a monthly basis. I also use a systemic product called Koinor which acts up to 6 months in the plant tissue.
Anything you'd recommend specifically for scale on junipers? Seems to be a shortage of info on YT for this particular problem
@@JadedEvan definitely Koinor. Active ingredient is Imidacloprid
As aulas são maravilhosas só que não entendo nada do quê verbaliza
Obrigada. Por favor, tente usar legendas, o TH-cam deve ter legendas em português
Tradução Pará o português do Brasil GRATIDÃO
Por favor, tente legendas do TH-cam. Espero que funcione!
👍
Thanks Stephen!
It smells just vile 🥲🌳🌳🌳
Yes indeed, you can wear a respirator though with carbon inserts which will remove the odour.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks for the information 👋
And take one round to the neighbours 👍🌳🌳
@shuancook9005 ha ha. They can grin and bear it.