Hell yeah man. I like your style and your spirits. You got me pumped and ready to give my machinery some love. Thanx bro for sharing your time to save us time. Just subscribed hit liked and will be getting all your notifications
Thank you, thank you thank you! I ordered the 24 tooth gear an set this up today on my new to me Atlas 12 inch. I too w8ll make a short video of this, but plan 100% in crediting you for the idea.
Picked up a 24 tooth gear off e-bay.Removed the 40 tooth gear.Moved the 48 tooth back to the 40 tooth position and added the 24 tooth and WOW like having a new lathe..Great idea...Tried on steel..Brass and got nice smooth finishes...Thank you...
Brilliant. I wish I hadn't given my set of change gears away with my old 10-inch when I sold her. But I plan to get into gear making soon anyway, so this will be an additional inspiration. Thanks for posting.
Hey Crafted , Wonderful idea , I never even thought about . I've already finished the hack to my early 1940s 12x36 Deluxe . Mine runs two 48s at the gear box driven by (my hack version) two 20s , driven by the 40A slide gear . Next hack : Part 1 : I'm building a tail stock - hand press - for drilling , tapping , etc . Part 2 : will be adding a motor reversing switch - when using collets in the spindle , (so I don't spin the chuck off in reverse). Future plan : I want to figure out if I can replace the apron with one from a commerical model to get rid of the "push/pull knob for the power cross feed . I want the lower mounted lever style . Ever have the cross feed wheel catch a finger while working that engagement button ..... Thanks for all the videos , Steve
You know, there is a lever operated factory tail-stock like you want out there. I'll get one into my collection someday. That tail stock with a turret on a 54 bed would be very cool indeed. I have all those parts. I should be able to answer some of the question on the apron. I do see one real problem here however. The bed thickness is 1/2" on the Commercial, 3/8" on the 10". So, the carriage rack would be 1/8" higher on your 10 than the commercial. The answer would be to bore and bush the hand wheel stem pinion hole to raise it up. Just off the top of my head, this might be the one issue you didn't think of. Really, why not just take the shaft and knob assembly for the cross slide out and install those items on the apron you have? It wouldn't' be a terrible project to make those parts. Then you have the best thing of all. A stock appearing with lathe with a "special" option. What fun it would be to stick a photo of that up here and there and say nothing about it. Just to see if people noticed. Watch them try to noodle out what it is they are looking at. I'm pretty sure I watched a video where a guy made this modification on an Atlas. Been done. Do it.
Great tip, not sure if you noticed on that chart, once you cut the drive in half A=B, B=C, C=D, D=E, and now E=F, F being the new lowest drive set for the feed.
I offer a compound ready to go on eBay now. Look up Atlas Lathe Slow Speed. I'm making lots of stuff for these now. My lathe is so quiet! And more useful with lower feed rates.
Dave End of next month I'm going to be talking to a guy that may be able to cut all these gears on his 4 axis CNC. I have talked to a few guys that have cut them out of aluminum and they say they are working and wearing great. Some have also cut them out of steel. I think that will be my long term plan when I get all of my equipment is to cut them out of steel with bronze bushings.
Good idea,,,k have 2 12 inch atlas lathes with quick change gear boxes and want to slow down feed and don't want do a motor to do it, my question is why did they have 2 48 teeth to drive gear boxe,,,was it because the gear box gears are steel and all other zmak ?,, how's yours holding up now?
You can not achieve the thread pitches on the line that Includes the 10 pitch. It asked for the 32/16 compound gear to be in the in possession. So, you do get the third line and down when doubled though.
Yes. Any combination could be used here if the small gear is 1/2 the tooth count of the big gear except for the problem of gear interference. Consider the physical diameters and that certain combinations would mesh the small and big gear but their compounded small and big gears would also mesh with each other when you want them turning freely to form the gear train. The gear change lathe owners have a combination where they use 3 compound gears in a train like this. Each compound uses the same big gear but the small gear increases in tooth count from step to step to space the shafts apart so they don't crash. If you built two compounds 40/20, you can't put them in a train because each 40 is engaging with each 20 when you want only one 40 to engage with one 20. It's a little challenging to use words to draw a picture here. The problem is the compounds overlap. Our gear stud lengths allow for 2 planes of gears. An inside plane and out side plane. If there were 3 planes, in, out and middle, you could arrange the gears with non-crashing overlaps meaning then and only then could your run multiple 40/20 compounds in the same gear train in a crash free pattern.
Dave I tried this with mine and I'm having a little trouble to get it to work. I used the same gears as you did but did not use a double bushing in the 48 that meshes with the gear box. I was getting some flexing of that gear. I don't have power yet just turning it by hand. I'm going to set it up exactly like you have it an see if works better.
+brosselot1 It sounds like you might be driving in a circle. Like maybe have two compound gears (a compound is two gears of different diameter locked together at the hub) meshing with each other. Nothing should be bending or flexing. Feel free to shoot a little short video of it or send me a photo by PM if you get stuck.
Dave I set it up just like your video and but I found that the tumbler gear compound has a shim behind it that I needed, and I had a lot of wear in the compound gear 48/24 sleeve I built. Also had the wrong bushings in the gear assemblies. I got most of it straightened out now have to shim the tumbler assembly and than put my motor on so we should be good. Also had the lead screw to tight. It is alot of fine adjustments to get it all to work just right. I need to find a new 20T tumbler gear mine is a little worn but it will work for now. When I get power to this I will post a video
brosselot1 My tumbler gears are worn as well. Probably why I needed to ship the assembly. I'd like to make a whole new set. The compound gears seem to take a lot of wear in the bore. I'm going to bush probably every I own. I may just bush all the gears. I'm not sure Zamak is a great bearing. Once I setup and start doing it, it will be hard for me to stop before I've done every gear I won. ;-)
+Crafted Im going to have a couple of the tumbler gears cut out of Aluminum I have good aluminum and steel sleeves in them now but Ive talked to the guys at Clausing and MrPete about this and there is several shims that they dont tell you about in the parts breakdown, one is the one you did a video on and also has a .0003 shim washer behind the compound gear on the Tumbler assembly. I need to make them. Once I get this all straight I will take pictures and make a video of this and post it.
Very clever solution and much quicker than driving the lead screw by other means . If I understand this correctly though, originally two 48 tooth gears drove the gear box but now only one is doing the job?
Great video! Quick question - is a spacer needed so the lone gear that meshes with the gearbox doesn't slide and contact the 48 tooth gear when operating?
Normally the 1/2 speed compound drive which is meshed with it currently is a slider gear that engages either the 16 or 32 tooth section of the 16/32 compound. I've replaced that with my 1/2 speed drive which is larger. When running a slider gear, two gears are required to be interfacing with the QC gearbox input gear. When you slide the slider back and forth it interfaced with one or the other of the gears. I'm not running one of them to make room for the big side of my 1/2 speed compound. So yes, I have a spacer there to keep it in position, so it won't come over and rub the 1/2 speed compound. In looking at it again, I can see the spaced gear has a hub issue. So I've got to take that appart and see what is going on. My ABS gears are all running 100% fine for years. See my parts under wwworadicalrcocom on eBay.
24 and 48 tooth gears needed with the slid bushing - just a note to myself. thanks for the video tip i hope this will work on my 3996 model. is this what i need?
Quick question, I noticed at the beginning you mentioned going through what I’m going through ( I think ). So I was really into doing the entire lathe of mine from entirely scrap metal just cuz I’m a mad man artist wanna be scientific nerd but I got the balls to dig thru toxic wastelands and help Mother Earth and myself with a few of her (thought useless) parts and build an amazing artistic innovated beautiful piece of metal love making machine the lathe but after looking at some of these head stocks I decided why f around with that part when they’re already some complete lonely ones out there looking for foster parents to take them in and make them a home the bed frame and the tail stock etc. Was that for the Atlas 10” F lathe headstock gearbox and gears you worked on?
Yes, this is a 10F. The same mod can work on a 10D, just different gear widths involved. It's not worth building a lathe, plenty around to buy so you can get going on projects.
Bison Workshop.....Great video, I'm going out to the shop and get started on my own mod. But before I go, is it ok to cut my own gear from steel and not damage my existing change gears? Or would it be better to use brass. My 12x36 Commercial is not in a production environment so possibly the brass would be better. First I'll check ebay for an OEM part. What's your thoughts? Thanks for any advice and a good video. Tom, Hartwell,GA
+tom warren I think you can use dissimilar metals but I'd be very carful about the tooth surface finish. I'd make it out of aluminum since that is similar to the Zamak the original gears are made from. However, if you can make it from steal, just buff it nice to make sure there is no microscopic roughness that would machine the teeth of the softer gear. You will probably find the gear I used is not too not hard to find on the bay. I happened to have one from a 1/2 lathe I bought for parts as seen in a prior video. I"m confused by your use of "Bison Workshop". Are you Bison? He does not have an Atlas / Craftsman lathe anymore. He sold his and purchased a new Jet. I think he's made of money or something. (Just kidding Bison) ;-)
+tom warren Don't be afraid to make a short video and show us your lathe. There are a lot of people who will offer you help and suggestions. If you make a video, stick a link in here. I'd like to see your lathe and hear about your plans for it.
+Crafted .....sorry about the "Bison......", I'm not Bison but now remember looking at one of his videos, so must have had a bit of confusion there :) Using aluminum is a great idea and I have a good stock of it here. As for making a video, I've only made one video and that was using my laptop camera, so not very experienced at it. But I'll give it some thought and maybe I can come up with some way to do it. I use my lathe ( and B'port) to make telegraph keys for my other hobby and have made a few internal combustion engines. Now in the middle of a little 2 cylinder IC, OHV engine. So I don't really have any add'l plans.
Nobody ever points out the fact that in this configuration you lose the top TWO rows of threads on the feed chart. Position “E” OUT is now the new range you’ve created with the addition of the compound gear. The slowest feed rate is now .0021” per spindle revolution. Great. “D” OUT is now the old “E” OUT. “C” OUT is now the old “D” OUT. “B” OUT is now the old “C” OUT and “A” OUT is now the old “B” OUT. There is no “A” IN. With the addition of the compound gear you have lost the ability to “slide” to the 32-tooth compound gear below the tumblers. So without taking anything apart and re-configuring anything, the coarsest thread you can cut is 16 t.p.i. Don’t get me wrong, this is the way I run my lathe 99.9% of the time. I love the slow feed rates. But just be aware that you lose the top two rows of threads.
Thank you for mentioning thisTodd. Yes, I agree, it seems to me that this mod eliminates the top two rows of threads on the feed chart. The "out" position is no longer possible. Dave T, don't you agree? This doesn't mean it is not a good mod, just that we would need to change back to the original configuration when we want to thread at TPIs on the top two rows.
I used a nylon gear now I have the slow rate and crash protection the nylon will strip before other gears break and the nylon can take a lot before it breaks,,
Nylon gears are pretty tough and your out on the end of a lever arm. The plastic change gear couplers are at a big disadvantage in a crash situation. The gears being the levers that move the world and split it in 1/2. But great getting that mod in. You'll get lots better finishes now. Wish I could put a photo here like we used to be able to do.
He might only need one extra gear slider. Just utilize an extra pair of gears. I'm running an ABS change gear slider in one compound set on my lathe now. Big cuts, no problem!
old iron shops is a article in popular mechanics early 1940s build your own quick change box...look quick a lot of libraries are throwing away old perodicals....say they take up too much space versus computer
There is a Atlas quick change attachment hand book available for download at vintage machinery’s website that contains loads of threads and feeds possible with this gear box and different change gear setups. vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=18212
+Bison Workshop It's an open and free market on those gears. It does seem like a lot. But the issue is, nobody is willing to sell theirs for less. So, to get them for less without making them, you need to use a gun. Not a pretty pictured. ;-) If you had kept that lathe, there is a good chance I'd have found a set for you or printed them on my 3D printer. I'm working on making gears now. I actually do own an extra set. Hmmmmmm Remember the partial lathe I purchased for $100? It included the complete set. From what I can tell, your Grizzly requires change gears for threading doesn't it? Look forward to your first threading video on the Grizz.
Bison Workshop Ah, yes, that is good, complete is good. You are correct, a change gear lathe without the change gears isn't complete. It's like a happy wife without the smiles. Incomplete. Do us a threading video so we can see how it's done on the Grizz.
Look at online gear suppliers. I also have an atlas craftsman TH42 and I got a whole set of brand new change gears from a gear supplier. Let me see if I can find the book mark. The gears I got were a perfect match for my machine. The whole set cost me just a little over $150 and they work great
I'm confused, Dave if you replace the 40 with the 48, then aren't you missing 8 somewhere. I realize you adding the 24 splits the 48. That part I get. but I'm just confused, won't there be a difference in the drive train because of the 40-48 swap. Have you used a dial indicator to confirm your fate is exactly 1/2
i'm not certain I understand the question but let me take a swing at it. There is no ratio change unless compound gear is used. The single gears idling on (not keyed to a shaft or another gear) that are driven and driving at the same time only transfer rotation 1 for 1 from one location to another. A single or idler gear transfers 1 tooth movement from one side of the gear to the other. Tooth for tooth.
that's the answer I needed, Thankyou. Your chanel is one of my favs for sure. matter of fact I just ordered a 24 tooth to copy this mod. (the only 24 tooth I could find was for a 6" lathe but I can bore it out if needed I think)
I would like to convert my Clausing 100 standard to Quick Change gears. Anybody parting one out i would like to hear from you. Anyone ever converted one i would also like to hear from you. thanks Mine is a 1939 model. It is actually the 31st one to come off the production line at Clausing. Thanks
Hell yeah man. I like your style and your spirits. You got me pumped and ready to give my machinery some love. Thanx bro for sharing your time to save us time. Just subscribed hit liked and will be getting all your notifications
Thank you, thank you thank you! I ordered the 24 tooth gear an set this up today on my new to me Atlas 12 inch. I too w8ll make a short video of this, but plan 100% in crediting you for the idea.
The new gear was 39.00 with shipping ...worth every penny.....Thanks again...
Picked up a 24 tooth gear off e-bay.Removed the 40 tooth gear.Moved the 48 tooth back to the 40 tooth position and added the 24 tooth and WOW like having a new lathe..Great idea...Tried on steel..Brass and got nice smooth finishes...Thank you...
Brilliant. I wish I hadn't given my set of change gears away with my old 10-inch when I sold her. But I plan to get into gear making soon anyway, so this will be an additional inspiration. Thanks for posting.
The lathe would have not been complete without them. I purchased 1/2 a lathe one time and got a set that way. No tail or head stock.
Hey Crafted ,
Wonderful idea , I never even thought about . I've already finished the hack to my early 1940s 12x36 Deluxe . Mine runs two 48s at the gear box driven by (my hack version) two 20s , driven by the 40A slide gear .
Next hack : Part 1 : I'm building a tail stock - hand press - for drilling , tapping , etc . Part 2 : will be adding a motor reversing switch - when using collets in the spindle , (so I don't spin the chuck off in reverse).
Future plan : I want to figure out if I can replace the apron with one from a commerical model to get rid of the "push/pull knob for the power cross feed . I want the lower mounted lever style . Ever have the cross feed wheel catch a finger while working that engagement button .....
Thanks for all the videos ,
Steve
You know, there is a lever operated factory tail-stock like you want out there. I'll get one into my collection someday. That tail stock with a turret on a 54 bed would be very cool indeed.
I have all those parts. I should be able to answer some of the question on the apron. I do see one real problem here however. The bed thickness is 1/2" on the Commercial, 3/8" on the 10". So, the carriage rack would be 1/8" higher on your 10 than the commercial. The answer would be to bore and bush the hand wheel stem pinion hole to raise it up. Just off the top of my head, this might be the one issue you didn't think of. Really, why not just take the shaft and knob assembly for the cross slide out and install those items on the apron you have? It wouldn't' be a terrible project to make those parts. Then you have the best thing of all. A stock appearing with lathe with a "special" option. What fun it would be to stick a photo of that up here and there and say nothing about it. Just to see if people noticed. Watch them try to noodle out what it is they are looking at. I'm pretty sure I watched a video where a guy made this modification on an Atlas. Been done. Do it.
Something I need to keep in mind for my lathe.
Great tip, not sure if you noticed on that chart, once you cut the drive in half A=B, B=C, C=D, D=E, and now E=F, F being the new lowest drive set for the feed.
Absolutely love it! Just what mt Atlas Quick change needs!
I offer a compound ready to go on eBay now. Look up Atlas Lathe Slow Speed. I'm making lots of stuff for these now. My lathe is so quiet! And more useful with lower feed rates.
Dave
End of next month I'm going to be talking to a guy that may be able to cut all these gears on his 4 axis CNC. I have talked to a few guys that have cut them out of aluminum and they say they are working and wearing great. Some have also cut them out of steel. I think that will be my long term plan when I get all of my equipment is to cut them out of steel with bronze bushings.
Good idea,,,k have 2 12 inch atlas lathes with quick change gear boxes and want to slow down feed and don't want do a motor to do it, my question is why did they have 2 48 teeth to drive gear boxe,,,was it because the gear box gears are steel and all other zmak ?,, how's yours holding up now?
You can not achieve the thread pitches on the line that Includes the 10 pitch. It asked for the 32/16 compound gear to be in the in possession. So, you do get the third line and down when doubled though.
I quest I orded the wrong gears I got a 44 & 52, Do I need a 24 & 48 is that right
This video is a godsend!! Thank you for sharing.
I now offer the 1/2 speed feed gear setup on eBay. Get yourself one. Metrc Transposing compound also.
If it was a 40 shouldn't the small gear be a 20 to be able to half tread rate?
Yes. Any combination could be used here if the small gear is 1/2 the tooth count of the big gear except for the problem of gear interference. Consider the physical diameters and that certain combinations would mesh the small and big gear but their compounded small and big gears would also mesh with each other when you want them turning freely to form the gear train. The gear change lathe owners have a combination where they use 3 compound gears in a train like this. Each compound uses the same big gear but the small gear increases in tooth count from step to step to space the shafts apart so they don't crash. If you built two compounds 40/20, you can't put them in a train because each 40 is engaging with each 20 when you want only one 40 to engage with one 20. It's a little challenging to use words to draw a picture here. The problem is the compounds overlap. Our gear stud lengths allow for 2 planes of gears. An inside plane and out side plane. If there were 3 planes, in, out and middle, you could arrange the gears with non-crashing overlaps meaning then and only then could your run multiple 40/20 compounds in the same gear train in a crash free pattern.
Dave I tried this with mine and I'm having a little trouble to get it to work. I used the same gears as you did but did not use a double bushing in the 48 that meshes with the gear box. I was getting some flexing of that gear. I don't have power yet just turning it by hand. I'm going to set it up exactly like you have it an see if works better.
+brosselot1 It sounds like you might be driving in a circle. Like maybe have two compound gears (a compound is two gears of different diameter locked together at the hub) meshing with each other. Nothing should be bending or flexing. Feel free to shoot a little short video of it or send me a photo by PM if you get stuck.
+brosselot1 Any updates?
Dave I set it up just like your video and but I found that the tumbler gear compound has a shim behind it that I needed, and I had a lot of wear in the compound gear 48/24 sleeve I built. Also had the wrong bushings in the gear assemblies. I got most of it straightened out now have to shim the tumbler assembly and than put my motor on so we should be good. Also had the lead screw to tight. It is alot of fine adjustments to get it all to work just right. I need to find a new 20T tumbler gear mine is a little worn but it will work for now. When I get power to this I will post a video
brosselot1 My tumbler gears are worn as well. Probably why I needed to ship the assembly. I'd like to make a whole new set. The compound gears seem to take a lot of wear in the bore. I'm going to bush probably every I own. I may just bush all the gears. I'm not sure Zamak is a great bearing. Once I setup and start doing it, it will be hard for me to stop before I've done every gear I won. ;-)
+Crafted Im going to have a couple of the tumbler gears cut out of Aluminum I have good aluminum and steel sleeves in them now but Ive talked to the guys at Clausing and MrPete about this and there is several shims that they dont tell you about in the parts breakdown, one is the one you did a video on and also has a .0003 shim washer behind the compound gear on the Tumbler assembly. I need to make them. Once I get this all straight I will take pictures and make a video of this and post it.
Very clever solution and much quicker than driving the lead screw by other means . If I understand this correctly though, originally two 48 tooth gears drove the gear box but now only one is doing the job?
Hola Bison, Saludos, tengo un torno paralelo atlas, y me parece maquina clasica excelente, Muy buen video, felicitaciones y saludos desde Venezuela.
Esse torno faz roscas em milímetros, ou apenas em polegadas?
Very good video, how can i find out what gears u make on eBay?
Great video! Quick question - is a spacer needed so the lone gear that meshes with the gearbox doesn't slide and contact the 48 tooth gear when operating?
Normally the 1/2 speed compound drive which is meshed with it currently is a slider gear that engages either the 16 or 32 tooth section of the 16/32 compound. I've replaced that with my 1/2 speed drive which is larger. When running a slider gear, two gears are required to be interfacing with the QC gearbox input gear. When you slide the slider back and forth it interfaced with one or the other of the gears. I'm not running one of them to make room for the big side of my 1/2 speed compound. So yes, I have a spacer there to keep it in position, so it won't come over and rub the 1/2 speed compound. In looking at it again, I can see the spaced gear has a hub issue. So I've got to take that appart and see what is going on. My ABS gears are all running 100% fine for years. See my parts under wwworadicalrcocom on eBay.
24 and 48 tooth gears needed with the slid bushing - just a note to myself.
thanks for the video tip i hope this will work on my 3996 model. is this what i need?
Sure, it will work fine.
Quick question, I noticed at the beginning you mentioned going through what I’m going through ( I think ). So I was really into doing the entire lathe of mine from entirely scrap metal just cuz I’m a mad man artist wanna be scientific nerd but I got the balls to dig thru toxic wastelands and help Mother Earth and myself with a few of her (thought useless) parts and build an amazing artistic innovated beautiful piece of metal love making machine the lathe but after looking at some of these head stocks I decided why f around with that part when they’re already some complete lonely ones out there looking for foster parents to take them in and make them a home the bed frame and the tail stock etc. Was that for the Atlas 10” F lathe headstock gearbox and gears you worked on?
Yes, this is a 10F. The same mod can work on a 10D, just different gear widths involved. It's not worth building a lathe, plenty around to buy so you can get going on projects.
I ordered. Thanks
Thanks buddy, I'm going to do this on mine
Bison Workshop.....Great video, I'm going out to the shop and get started on my own mod. But before I go, is it ok to cut my own gear from steel and not damage my existing change gears? Or would it be better to use brass. My 12x36 Commercial is not in a production environment so possibly the brass would be better. First I'll check ebay for an OEM part.
What's your thoughts? Thanks for any advice and a good video. Tom, Hartwell,GA
+tom warren I think you can use dissimilar metals but I'd be very carful about the tooth surface finish. I'd make it out of aluminum since that is similar to the Zamak the original gears are made from. However, if you can make it from steal, just buff it nice to make sure there is no microscopic roughness that would machine the teeth of the softer gear. You will probably find the gear I used is not too not hard to find on the bay. I happened to have one from a 1/2 lathe I bought for parts as seen in a prior video. I"m confused by your use of "Bison Workshop". Are you Bison? He does not have an Atlas / Craftsman lathe anymore. He sold his and purchased a new Jet. I think he's made of money or something. (Just kidding Bison) ;-)
+tom warren Don't be afraid to make a short video and show us your lathe. There are a lot of people who will offer you help and suggestions. If you make a video, stick a link in here. I'd like to see your lathe and hear about your plans for it.
+Crafted .....sorry about the "Bison......", I'm not Bison but now remember looking at one of his videos, so must have had a bit of confusion there :) Using aluminum is a great idea and I have a good stock of it here. As for making a video, I've only made one video and that was using my laptop camera, so not very experienced at it.
But I'll give it some thought and maybe I can come up with some way to do it. I use my lathe ( and B'port) to make telegraph keys for my other hobby and have made a few internal combustion engines. Now in the middle of a little 2 cylinder IC, OHV engine. So I don't really have any add'l plans.
+tom warren...... As many of us have done, I've made all sorts of accessories for mine when I was just getting started. Thanks for your reply......Tom
great idea. what is the 24t part number? i bought a 24t on ebay but its not the right one. thanks.
You purchased a gear for a 6" lathe probably. No idea part number but the correct gears are for 10/12" lathes and are 16DP.
Nobody ever points out the fact that in this configuration you lose the top TWO rows of threads on the feed chart. Position “E” OUT is now the new range you’ve created with the addition of the compound gear. The slowest feed rate is now .0021” per spindle revolution. Great. “D” OUT is now the old “E” OUT. “C” OUT is now the old “D” OUT. “B” OUT is now the old “C” OUT and “A” OUT is now the old “B” OUT. There is no “A” IN. With the addition of the compound gear you have lost the ability to “slide” to the 32-tooth compound gear below the tumblers. So without taking anything apart and re-configuring anything, the coarsest thread you can cut is 16 t.p.i. Don’t get me wrong, this is the way I run my lathe 99.9% of the time. I love the slow feed rates. But just be aware that you lose the top two rows of threads.
Thank you for mentioning thisTodd. Yes, I agree, it seems to me that this mod eliminates the top two rows of threads on the feed chart. The "out" position is no longer possible. Dave T, don't you agree? This doesn't mean it is not a good mod, just that we would need to change back to the original configuration when we want to thread at TPIs on the top two rows.
Sorry, my mistake. The "IN" position is no longer possible.
I used a nylon gear now I have the slow rate and crash protection the nylon will strip before other gears break and the nylon can take a lot before it breaks,,
Nylon gears are pretty tough and your out on the end of a lever arm. The plastic change gear couplers are at a big disadvantage in a crash situation. The gears being the levers that move the world and split it in 1/2. But great getting that mod in. You'll get lots better finishes now. Wish I could put a photo here like we used to be able to do.
great idea to bad I don't have a quick change gear box .
Actually I think this idea would work great for a machine w/o a QC gear box. You'll just be cutting your feed in half, no matter what.
He might only need one extra gear slider. Just utilize an extra pair of gears. I'm running an ABS change gear slider in one compound set on my lathe now. Big cuts, no problem!
old iron shops is a article in popular mechanics early 1940s build your own quick change box...look quick a lot of libraries are throwing away old perodicals....say they take up too much space versus computer
There is a Atlas quick change attachment hand book available for download at vintage machinery’s website that contains loads of threads and feeds possible with this gear box and different change gear setups.
vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=18212
these change gears are one of the main reason i got rid of mine. i thing 200 for them gears are price gouging. and that gos against my beleafs.
+Bison Workshop It's an open and free market on those gears. It does seem like a lot. But the issue is, nobody is willing to sell theirs for less. So, to get them for less without making them, you need to use a gun. Not a pretty pictured. ;-) If you had kept that lathe, there is a good chance I'd have found a set for you or printed them on my 3D printer. I'm working on making gears now. I actually do own an extra set. Hmmmmmm Remember the partial lathe I purchased for $100? It included the complete set. From what I can tell, your Grizzly requires change gears for threading doesn't it? Look forward to your first threading video on the Grizz.
i got the grizzly because it was compleat
Bison Workshop Ah, yes, that is good, complete is good. You are correct, a change gear lathe without the change gears isn't complete. It's like a happy wife without the smiles. Incomplete. Do us a threading video so we can see how it's done on the Grizz.
im a long way from threading
Look at online gear suppliers. I also have an atlas craftsman TH42 and I got a whole set of brand new change gears from a gear supplier. Let me see if I can find the book mark. The gears I got were a perfect match for my machine. The whole set cost me just a little over $150 and they work great
I'm confused, Dave if you replace the 40 with the 48, then aren't you missing 8 somewhere. I realize you adding the 24 splits the 48. That part I get. but I'm just confused, won't there be a difference in the drive train because of the 40-48 swap. Have you used a dial indicator to confirm your fate is exactly 1/2
i'm not certain I understand the question but let me take a swing at it. There is no ratio change unless compound gear is used. The single gears idling on (not keyed to a shaft or another gear) that are driven and driving at the same time only transfer rotation 1 for 1 from one location to another. A single or idler gear transfers 1 tooth movement from one side of the gear to the other. Tooth for tooth.
that's the answer I needed, Thankyou. Your chanel is one of my favs for sure. matter of fact I just ordered a 24 tooth to copy this mod. (the only 24 tooth I could find was for a 6" lathe but I can bore it out if needed I think)
ahh wouldnt that be half on the thread a 8 pitch would be four and not double a 16 like your saying
I would like to convert my Clausing 100 standard to Quick Change gears. Anybody parting one out i would like to hear from you. Anyone ever converted one i would also like to hear from you. thanks Mine is a 1939 model. It is actually the 31st one to come off the production line at Clausing. Thanks
Damn that's confusing as hell
I now make these compounds in ABS.
@@CraftedChannel l have 2. 12 x 36s lathes would like to get them for both from you,,,l like the ABS will save the zmak gears in case of crash
@@CraftedChannel if you can send me an invoice I can PayPal you