Abaolutely great series of videos. Think I will have to do some clutch work on my MSU 500 as it seems to take quite a bit of gas to get the unit rolling. These videos will definitely help with opening everything up and getting it overhauled!
Very nice set of videos. I recently picked up a non-running 2008 Hisun 500 that I will be tearing apart and these videos are going into my 'favorites' pile for reference. Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge on these machines. Keep up the good work! I would be interested on how you tested the idle air control valve, MAF and throttle position sensor. I just realized that you have all the links to all the parts you needed to replace! Wow, nice. Save me a lot of searching.
Hey Mike. Thanks for the awesome feed back. I try to put links in the description for the parts I use. They are affiliate links of mine. as far as checking the IEC motor, MAF sensor, TPS sensor, you would need the code reader. It's about $300 on the Massimo website. I believe the one of my videos I do show the code reader because it also lets you stream live data when you have the key on you can check You can check all the sensors that way. I also have a parameter sheet direct from the manufacturer of what the spec should be at certain RPMs. lf you have any questions or any issues feel free to email me at limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com I'll be more than happy to help you out.
I've seen a Cub for sale where they admit the air cleaner came loose and 'did some damage'. They were told it needs internal engine work. Wondering if this is all it needs. Looks very very clean otherwise. Definitely not abused.
Thanks for the video. I have a 700 2012 msu and the brakes won’t fully engage so it seems like the brakes pads barely touch when fully pressed down. Pads calipers and most the brake system is new I’m stumped
It definitely sounds like you still have air trapped somewhere in the lines are the mastercylinder. I would try to reverse bleed the system. That's the best way to get air out of your lines.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394thank you for the response honestly didn’t expect one lol. What’s the best way to do that? I read somewhere they’re known to have a rear caliper that is mounted with the bleeder downwards facing. So I’m gonna try that in the morning and then also try to get any air out of the mc if there is any, not sure the best way to do that yet either. Thanks
I try really hard to answer all comments back. Some times I miss one are 2 but I try lol. You definitely want to try to bleed your brakes with the bleed vavle facing up so all the trapped air can get out. When you reverse bleed a system. You have just a little bit in the master cylinder & you take brake fluid & force it thought the bleeder vavle all the way up to the master cylinder. They sell reverse bleeder kits on Amazon. Best way to bleed any brake system if you ask me
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394I appreciate that for sure. Alright I’ll have to try that I read somewhere you can bleed the mc pretty easily as well so I’ll be working on that tomorrow for sure thank you for the help! If it doesn’t work I’ll order one of those
Hey great videos , working on a challenger 700 ,hard to get in gear and stalls engine in low , just trying to help him out , when he purchased he was told they had just installed a new clutch , looking for a place to start thank you
I have a 2012 massimo 500. I had gotten bad fuel/ water in it last year. It quit runnig. I drained tank /new fuel lines / fuel filter/ spark plug. I got it running but it didnt seem right. Now it quit again. It turns over well/have spark/fuel threw injector. No start. It does pop/backfire? Sometimes when i crank it. Thoughts
Check your valve clearances & the the cam timing. Also you need to check the cam lobes to see if they are wore off. The timing chains like ti stretch out & skip time are the timing chain tensioner fail.
My reverse light is stuck on which activates my machines speed control limiter holding me to 16-18 mph in forward. Where specifically is the reverse switch? I have been searching YT for specific help and that where I found that the reverse switch may be my culprit! However its location doesn’t seem to be on YT. A picture would be fantastic. Thanks
It's actually underneath the air box on top of the motor. But what you should do you should is take the gray connector offer your ECU and find pin 16 which is a green wire with a blue Tracer and remove it from the ECU that will get rid of your reverse speed limiter all together.
I recently acquired a Massimo 500 that my step-father had purchased from TSC in 2015 - He's since passed in 2019 and it sat in the garage until this month, driven/started occasionally by a family member but not really used much. It started to leak oil and I checked it - NOTHING in the engine... I haven't found a place for it to be serviced yet, but any first thoughts about where it might be leaking from? I'm definitely not a mechanic but know enough to be dangerous... thanks!
There's really nowhere for the oil to leak two besides out of the motor. It sounds like it may be burning oil and it probably was low initially in the first place. But I would definitely go ahead and fill it up with a nice 10W-40 wet clutch compatible oil and see what happens it should take right around 2 quarts
@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Dang man! Great video series! Thank you! I learned a ton about these little motors! I have a Coleman outfitter 550 (hisun 550) and it quit running on me while I was driving. No noises like anything broke, just shut down. Starter turns and turns but no sounds like it’s engaging the flywheel or anything, so I’m thinking I should start looking there to see if the woodruff key sheared off or… Any ideas? Is that where I should start looking?
Have a massimo 500 have replaced o2 sensor idle air control sensor fuel injector and mass flow sensor still won’t start. If I loosen throttle tube and let air in it starts up tighten clamps back up and runs like a charm. Turn it off and it won’t start any ifeas
Hey Joe. Now that's a pretty Interesting one. Are you sure your air filter & intake track are all clean & clear of any clogs ? Also when you replaces you're IAC motor did you clean out the ports for the IAC motor I. the throttle body? You can also try to do a ecu reset & see it that helps as all. I would love to plug my scanner tool I to that & read all the parameters to make sure they are correct.
Hey bud I'm pretty sure I just answered your email back but like I was saying in your email sometimes these things have issues with stretch timing chains making them go out of time and the can lobes like to wear off in the 500. Also I would check your valve clearances to make sure those are set properly. Have you had any issues with it running in warmer weather
Got a brand new Axis 500 with a sound coming from around the back of the motor or just behind the motor at around 20 mph. that ‘’sounds like’’ a chain hitting a housing! Any thoughts or suggestions?
Are you sure it's from behind the motor & not from the clutch housing? I just finished up shooting a video on a 2021 axis 500 that had a sound almost like what you described & it was the oneway bearing in the wetclutch. They only had 267 miles on the unit.
Hey Frankie. Sounds like you tackled all the commen stuff I usually take a look at. Now that you replace the tps did you have a code ready that streams live data to make sure you set the TPS back to zero? That is very important because the ecu uses all the information from all the things you changed to determine dwell time of the fuel injectors. Also the O² sensor could be going south also. Definitely check the connections on the ECU because I have found them full of water & rust before causing this type of issue too. Also check fuel pressure. It should be about 3 bar / 42psi minimum. I'm sure you have changed the spark plug already. These machines Foul out a lot.
I'm not being a teacher or whatever but I've always wondered how guys like you can master taking things apart and figuring things mechanical and this and that and yet have bad grammar and spelling skills. To me it's the same attention to detail. I'm just curious about this because I see it all the time.
I have a 2015 cub cadet challanger 500 that i replaced the oil, belt and small brass arm that the throttle cable feed through to the throttle body. Now that all is replaced I have to give it gas pedal to start and the cart barely wants to move at a high rpm. Any suggestions? I put 2 quarts of the wet clutch oil in the motor after replacement and the oil level stick looks at the proper level. Thanks in advance.
Hey Paul. Thanks for the comment & checking out video. I would go back & check you belt you replaced. Did it have any of these problems before you replaced the belt? I would try a ecu reset first for the starting issue if you know how to do that. Leave the cvt cover off & drive it around & see if it is engaging like it supposed to. Also are you sire the secondary clutch is closed all the way? You didn't for get the bolt in it that you use to separate the clutch when you replaced the belt?
I do have some video on a 2014 MSU 800. I do do a valve adjustment on that one. I need to finish and edit and post a video for you guys. because in the end it did need a top-end rebuild and I wanted to do that but the customer opted out. he decided to use it for a paperweight. but as soon as I get one in that needs a motor rebuild I'll be sure to video edit and get it up here for you guys as soon as possible. thanks again for the comment and if you have any questions at all feel free to hit me up at limitlessPowersports 78@gmail.com
Hey Heather. Yeah it's the metal Inserts that are spinning in the plastic. you will have to pry out on the fan cover as your trying to get the bolt out. If that doesn't work your going to have to break it & buy another you should be able to find one on Amazon. It happens to the cvt cover all the time.
Nice informative videos. My Massimo 500, 2017 model is getting fuel and fire. The injector is shooting fuel and spark plug has good spark. If I try to start it ,it won't start. Okay the strange thing is this. If I unbolt the injector and hit the key it will fire up from the fuel in the intake. When I bolt the injector back on and crank it, it won't fire off. Any ideas would be great. Thank you.
Hey Tim. I would definitely check your cam timing. They are notorious for stretching the cam chain & making them skip time. I think the reason it fires up after you remove the injector is because it's letting more air in & helping release compression. That would be my first check & also make sure your cam lobes are not wore off also
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I'll check that. Is it possible to set the time without unbolting the head? I replaced the timing chain and gear and slides several months ago and it's quite a job. Thank you for the reply.
Yeah you can set timing with out removing the head. you should have set the cam timing with the head bolted down. It's a little bit if a pain but just might have to take the cam sprocket loose.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 - 2018 Vector 500 --- Desperately needing a pro like you to make a timing video. That would help a ton of youtube DIY techs. Awesome videos, and keep the vids coming!
I'm currently shooting a video on a 500 top end rebuild. It will have all the steps on how to time it up & what to to look for. If you shot me an email @ Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com I'll send you a copy of how to time your 500
I've ran a across a similar problem before. After I adjusted then to spec & ran the motor again I had extreme valve chattering. Well I went back in & checked all my clearances again & they clearance was way off. So I would check them one more time. The loss of power could be from the valves not opening up as much as they should. Let me know what you fine.
Excellent, informative and efficient videos. I like the way you go at repairs in general. If it can be cleaned/adjusted, do it. If it needs replacement, do it. Seems like you’re a mechanic people can trust. You know, have their best interests in mind (versus maximum invoice). Which is basically why I do repairs myself if possible, assuming I know or can learn enough through videos like this to do so. I’d prefer to be fishing. My MSU 500 has a lot of these same issues. Hopefully not the CAM wear though. Isn’t the chunks in the oil at a change out, wet clutch shoe pad particles and thus a tell-tell it needs replaced? So if/when you start seeing really dark oil with particles in it (whatever the clutch pads are made of), time to replace the wet clutch? Other videos say the put a little (measured amount) grease on the clutch’s sliders/weights. You’re saying don’t though, right?
Hey Greg. Thanks for stopping in & checking put my channel. I had to reply to you comments with my email. For some reason I would let me reply back through my channel. As for as putting grease on any part of the clutch is a huge no no. What ends up happening will grease on the sliders is all the rubber belt debris & anything else that might end up getting suckes down the air inlet tube to your clutch will just start sticking to that grease causing it to get thick & gummy then your clutch pressure plate with start to stick & not operate properly. Then you start to burn up belts with bad clutch engagement & disengagement. I have seen it lead to a whole mess of problems.
@@cylewinkler916 Thanks. I go through wet shoe pads/drum about every two years. Maybe that’s a contributing factor. It came from the factory with grease on them (weights/slides) and yes, it’s a mess at replacement time. I clean the old off and reapply, per some other instructions. I’ll try this, though from now on. Makes sense and thanks again. Not sure about why you had to reply via email. I don’t see anything abnormal in my settings that would cause it.
Hey Greg I was actually on the phone with Massimo today & they said to add a touch of grease to the sliders & rollers to help with wear & flat spotting the rollers
The 400 Buck I own has gotten where it will not go into reverse or park. It will go into High and Low and drive forward. What should I look into to repair this issue?
Hey Randy. I'll have to do a little digging on that. My question is will it go into reverse are park when it's turned off? I would check you shift linkage to make sure it's adjusted correctly first off. The possibly the shift shaft.
Hey great vids. I’ve got a massimo msu500 that is burning oil and began smoking bad when after I inherited the utv and put proper engine oil levels in it. A mechanic I am told in the past said it needed valve seals. Any guidance or videos how to approach that seal replacement. Trying to determine if it’s going to be easy or not. Thanks in advance.
I'm currently making a video on a 500 topend rebuild. I'll try to remember to talk about how to change the valve guide seals while I'm talking about the cam that I have to replace. Is it smoking all the time are just on start up? If it's smoking all the time it's going to need new rings at least bit if it's just on start up that would be valve guide seals.
So when you say the starter turn over the motor, you are saying you can hear everything turn over like it wants to start but to piston isn't moving up & down? Are you sure the motor is actually turning over? What happen prior to this issue?
I have a Massimo 500 and took a ride tonight with the wife when we heard an odd noise. Started smelling oil burning. Took it back home and found the timing cover cracked and 2 pieces missing from it. What would cause this?
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 the top cover on the side of the head. Where the cam is located. I believe the cam moved out and contacted the cover then moved back into place. Exhaust got loud at first telling me it was trying to exhaust thru the intake. What could cause the cam to shift out and then back into position?
I have never seen a cam do that because of the cam lobs usually restricted that. I have seen the cam sprocket bolts back out causing contact. I've seen timing chain tensioner lose tension causing slack but usually not causing your issue. Sende a email with pics so I cam maybe help you out
I got a 16 cub cadet challenger 500 that will not shift out of H. The clutches and belt all checked good. The shifter linkages and the safety brake switch are good. It has to be something inside the shifter but I haven't been able to find much on the inner workings of the gear selection part of the transmission. Any idea on how I could fix this?
Hey Karl thanks for checking out the channel. My first question will be can you get it to shift out of high gear while it's setting still? engine not running or anything? The transmissions in those are very uncomplicated on the insides but you do have to split your engine cases to access it. now if you're able to take it out of gear while the engine isn't running then it's going to be most likely a primary clutch issue. I know you say they check out perfectly fine. also make sure that your idle is about 1200 to 1400 RPMs. when you're adjusting the shift linkage it needs to be in neutral. And also there's a little side cover where there is the shift shaft sticking out You can take that off and make sure that the two dots are lined up on the shift paws.
Yeah Carl I would probably take the shift link above and check out the ship pause. And if those look like they're OK and the teeth aren't chewed up on that it's definitely sound like an internal issue. And on those I believe the transmission is internal on the motor not separate periods so the cases would have to be split. The pop the possibility that you do have a bent shift fork that seems to be a pretty big issue with those. Hate to be the bear bad news on that.
Thank you for your insight. It has been very helpful. Something like a bent shift fork was what I was think it might be but couldn't find how you got into it to check. Now I have a better idea of what to expect and do if I decide to dig into it more. Thank you again.
I have a Massimo 500 I bought in real good shape. I adjusted the idle and its runs fine but after about 20 mins it doesn't stay running/idle and seems to get too hot. is this a coolant problem, or do i need to drain the recommended hypoid gear oil? The heat is coming from behind the throttle body.
Hey Joe V. For the heat issue I would definitely check your coolant level & make sure your fan is kicking on to help circulate air. I have also seen the water pumps fail on them also. You can also try resetting your ecu my starting it up & giving you unit full throttle for 3 seconds & then shut off the key with full throttle still & hold it there for another 5 seconds. Then restart it. You also could have a faulty IAC motor are possibly an air leak if you have the fuel injected model.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I will look into that! there's not a lot of places that can give knowledgeable advice on these machines. Thanks for the tips man hell yeah!
Hey David thanks for checking out the videos also thanks for the comment. You want at least 3bar which is roughly 43 to 44 psi. The fuel pump already has a fuel filter built onto it. but it definitely doesn't hurt to add an inline one at all.
I swear 3/4 of Chinese sxs/atv issues are from people that do no maintenance to them. That thing sucked in a crazy amount of dirt surprised it’s not smoking yet. Hey when you replace parts like the one way bearing,intake boot etc etc do you use factory massimo/Hisun parts or what ever you can get off amazon? I find some parts aren’t built as well as the genuine parts are. I ordered one of those intake boots for my 2008 700 and the boot didn’t have a groove in out for the bell horn of the carb to fit into. I ended up taking a dremel to it and it’s a decent fit now but would be nice if it was as good as the factory Hisun part. I try to upgrade certain parts with Yamaha parts when I can.
Hey Indeewoods. I do use some Amazon parts but you have to look really close at them to make sure they look the same. I ran into the same problem you have before myself. I do order a lot of parts from the manufacturer & then I'll compare to Amazon. A lot of my customers don't want to spend $$ in the factory part when they see it in Amazon. A lot are the same part but a lot are not. it's a hit & miss.
Hey Heath. To clean the IAc motor you can take it off the throttle body & spray it down with some brake clean are electrical contact cleaner then hit it with some compressed air. Unfortunately most of the time when they get really nasty & dirty, they start to not work properly. If you suspect that it is going bad you can find the part on Amazon for about $60 to $70. I replace them all the time.
Need to check spark, if you have spark, listen for fuel pump to cycle,check fuel pressure if it's a EFI unit. Aslo check to make sure your Injector is working. Check valve clearances, check chassis grounds. Check all connections for fitment & pull on every individual wire in the connectors to make sure they didn't come loose.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 electrical part is operating as it should found flat spots on cam intake and exhaust like shown in video including rocker arms
The fuel filter is built into the fuel pump alot of people put an inline fuel filter in & the injector is bolted to the intake. It's separate from the throttle body
I usually end up having to pull the motor split the cases and make sure it's all cleaned out on the inside. But this particular case here the customer didn't want to keep spending a bunch of money on it because they just used it for beating around the farm most of the time. So I just flushed it out a few different times with cheap oil Then did a regular oil change with Amsoil 10w-30 & new oil filter. Definitely not the way I like to do things.
That doesn't make much sense unless the butterfly was also stuck wide open. Even if the TPS sensor was reading wrong it still wouldn't pull enough air with the butterfly closed to run wide open. That's an interesting dilemma. 🤔
Also check your intake for crack & air leaks. That will make it do the samething. The intakes are notorious for cracking & the little square black boxes on the intake crack also.
This Must Be The Older One They Make A Oil Fill Tube To Bring The Oil Level Up To Stop Oil Starvation To The Cam! I Just Run Mine Like A Lawnmower I Fill It Up Tell I See Oil About To Come Out Of The Oil Fill It Also Helps The Wet Clutch Last Longer! I Have Been Working On These Machines For Years Since 2015.
Hey Roy. Thanks for stopping by and checking out the channel. Yeah this is a little bit older one I know they added that filter to quite a few of the models. Never been a big fan of these machines but I'm about the only one in my area who works on them and has don't want to work in the past. So it's nice to have another technician who works on these things the bounce ideas off of lol.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 ok we live in Montana used to live about 80 miles south of St Louis you seem very knowledgeable of UTV's what do you think of the massimo does it seam like it holds up compared to say Honda and yamaha I watched your video of the one you had to replace rhe I believe cam shaft it just seem like it wasn't really that old to have that much wear on it and Thanks for responding to my question
Well Keith it sounds like you might of grew up in my home town of Perryville Missouri. I would definitely stay away from any of the aftermarket Chinese stuff. They are nothing but problems. The Japanese brands might be more expensive but they are definitely the way to go. They are a million times better.
Abaolutely great series of videos. Think I will have to do some clutch work on my MSU 500 as it seems to take quite a bit of gas to get the unit rolling. These videos will definitely help with opening everything up and getting it overhauled!
Great explanation and thank you for sharing this information with us!
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice set of videos. I recently picked up a non-running 2008 Hisun 500 that I will be tearing apart and these videos are going into my 'favorites' pile for reference. Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge on these machines. Keep up the good work!
I would be interested on how you tested the idle air control valve, MAF and throttle position sensor.
I just realized that you have all the links to all the parts you needed to replace! Wow, nice. Save me a lot of searching.
Hey Mike. Thanks for the awesome feed back. I try to put links in the description for the parts I use. They are affiliate links of mine. as far as checking the IEC motor, MAF sensor, TPS sensor, you would need the code reader. It's about $300 on the Massimo website. I believe the one of my videos I do show the code reader because it also lets you stream live data when you have the key on you can check You can check all the sensors that way. I also have a parameter sheet direct from the manufacturer of what the spec should be at certain RPMs. lf you have any questions or any issues feel free to email me at limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com I'll be more than happy to help you out.
I've seen a Cub for sale where they admit the air cleaner came loose and 'did some damage'. They were told it needs internal engine work. Wondering if this is all it needs. Looks very very clean otherwise. Definitely not abused.
Thanks for the video. I have a 700 2012 msu and the brakes won’t fully engage so it seems like the brakes pads barely touch when fully pressed down. Pads calipers and most the brake system is new I’m stumped
It definitely sounds like you still have air trapped somewhere in the lines are the mastercylinder. I would try to reverse bleed the system. That's the best way to get air out of your lines.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394thank you for the response honestly didn’t expect one lol. What’s the best way to do that? I read somewhere they’re known to have a rear caliper that is mounted with the bleeder downwards facing. So I’m gonna try that in the morning and then also try to get any air out of the mc if there is any, not sure the best way to do that yet either. Thanks
I try really hard to answer all comments back. Some times I miss one are 2 but I try lol. You definitely want to try to bleed your brakes with the bleed vavle facing up so all the trapped air can get out. When you reverse bleed a system. You have just a little bit in the master cylinder & you take brake fluid & force it thought the bleeder vavle all the way up to the master cylinder. They sell reverse bleeder kits on Amazon. Best way to bleed any brake system if you ask me
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394I appreciate that for sure. Alright I’ll have to try that I read somewhere you can bleed the mc pretty easily as well so I’ll be working on that tomorrow for sure thank you for the help! If it doesn’t work I’ll order one of those
Hey great videos , working on a challenger 700 ,hard to get in gear and stalls engine in low , just trying to help him out , when he purchased he was told they had just installed a new clutch , looking for a place to start thank you
Does the engine stall in any other gear? If so they probably installed the oneway bearing backwards.
I have a 2012 massimo 500.
I had gotten bad fuel/ water in it last year. It quit runnig. I drained tank /new fuel lines / fuel filter/ spark plug. I got it running but it didnt seem right. Now it quit again. It turns over well/have spark/fuel threw injector. No start. It does pop/backfire? Sometimes when i crank it. Thoughts
Check your valve clearances & the the cam timing. Also you need to check the cam lobes to see if they are wore off. The timing chains like ti stretch out & skip time are the timing chain tensioner fail.
Thanks for your great videos!
My reverse light is stuck on which activates my machines speed control limiter holding me to 16-18 mph in forward. Where specifically is the reverse switch? I have been searching YT for specific help and that where I found that the reverse switch may be my culprit! However its location doesn’t seem to be on YT. A picture would be fantastic. Thanks
It's actually underneath the air box on top of the motor. But what you should do you should is take the gray connector offer your ECU and find pin 16 which is a green wire with a blue Tracer and remove it from the ECU that will get rid of your reverse speed limiter all together.
I recently acquired a Massimo 500 that my step-father had purchased from TSC in 2015 - He's since passed in 2019 and it sat in the garage until this month, driven/started occasionally by a family member but not really used much. It started to leak oil and I checked it - NOTHING in the engine... I haven't found a place for it to be serviced yet, but any first thoughts about where it might be leaking from? I'm definitely not a mechanic but know enough to be dangerous... thanks!
There's really nowhere for the oil to leak two besides out of the motor. It sounds like it may be burning oil and it probably was low initially in the first place. But I would definitely go ahead and fill it up with a nice 10W-40 wet clutch compatible oil and see what happens it should take right around 2 quarts
I have a MSU700 the coolant light stays on. Levels are good, I checked the circulation of coolant with the radiator cap off. Any ideas?
Hey Tammy. Sounds like you have a faulty engine temp sensor are with wire to it is grounding causing the light to stay on.
@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Dang man! Great video series! Thank you! I learned a ton about these little motors! I have a Coleman outfitter 550 (hisun 550) and it quit running on me while I was driving. No noises like anything broke, just shut down. Starter turns and turns but no sounds like it’s engaging the flywheel or anything, so I’m thinking I should start looking there to see if the woodruff key sheared off or… Any ideas? Is that where I should start looking?
Have a massimo 500 have replaced o2 sensor idle air control sensor fuel injector and mass flow sensor still won’t start. If I loosen throttle tube and let air in it starts up tighten clamps back up and runs like a charm. Turn it off and it won’t start any ifeas
Hey Joe. Now that's a pretty Interesting one. Are you sure your air filter & intake track are all clean & clear of any clogs ? Also when you replaces you're IAC motor did you clean out the ports for the IAC motor I. the throttle body? You can also try to do a ecu reset & see it that helps as all. I would love to plug my scanner tool I to that & read all the parameters to make sure they are correct.
ha i have a 2015 massimo 500 4x4 side bye side no start have fire and fuel hit got to 15 below o and went to start and would not start can you help
Hey bud I'm pretty sure I just answered your email back but like I was saying in your email sometimes these things have issues with stretch timing chains making them go out of time and the can lobes like to wear off in the 500. Also I would check your valve clearances to make sure those are set properly. Have you had any issues with it running in warmer weather
Got a brand new Axis 500 with a sound coming from around the back of the motor or just behind the motor at around 20 mph. that ‘’sounds like’’ a chain hitting a housing! Any thoughts or suggestions?
Are you sure it's from behind the motor & not from the clutch housing? I just finished up shooting a video on a 2021 axis 500 that had a sound almost like what you described & it was the oneway bearing in the wetclutch. They only had 267 miles on the unit.
I will check on that. Thanks for the help!
2015 massimo 500 won’t take gas good or idle. Any suggestions. Already changed tps, idle control valve, injector, and MAF sensor.
Hey Frankie. Sounds like you tackled all the commen stuff I usually take a look at. Now that you replace the tps did you have a code ready that streams live data to make sure you set the TPS back to zero? That is very important because the ecu uses all the information from all the things you changed to determine dwell time of the fuel injectors. Also the O² sensor could be going south also. Definitely check the connections on the ECU because I have found them full of water & rust before causing this type of issue too. Also check fuel pressure. It should be about 3 bar / 42psi minimum. I'm sure you have changed the spark plug already. These machines Foul out a lot.
I'm not being a teacher or whatever but I've always wondered how guys like you can master taking things apart and figuring things mechanical and this and that and yet have bad grammar and spelling skills.
To me it's the same attention to detail. I'm just curious about this because I see it all the time.
I have a 2015 cub cadet challanger 500 that i replaced the oil, belt and small brass arm that the throttle cable feed through to the throttle body. Now that all is replaced I have to give it gas pedal to start and the cart barely wants to move at a high rpm. Any suggestions? I put 2 quarts of the wet clutch oil in the motor after replacement and the oil level stick looks at the proper level. Thanks in advance.
Hey Paul. Thanks for the comment & checking out video. I would go back & check you belt you replaced. Did it have any of these problems before you replaced the belt? I would try a ecu reset first for the starting issue if you know how to do that. Leave the cvt cover off & drive it around & see if it is engaging like it supposed to. Also are you sire the secondary clutch is closed all the way? You didn't for get the bolt in it that you use to separate the clutch when you replaced the belt?
Very helpful videos! You should do a video on a teardown or top end rebuild next time one comes to your shop.
I do have some video on a 2014 MSU 800. I do do a valve adjustment on that one. I need to finish and edit and post a video for you guys. because in the end it did need a top-end rebuild and I wanted to do that but the customer opted out. he decided to use it for a paperweight. but as soon as I get one in that needs a motor rebuild I'll be sure to video edit and get it up here for you guys as soon as possible. thanks again for the comment and if you have any questions at all feel free to hit me up at limitlessPowersports 78@gmail.com
Daniel I have some new videos out of a full motor rebuild
Hello again, I was getting ready to take off the fan cover and the good old bolts just spin. Any ideas?
Hey Heather. Yeah it's the metal Inserts that are spinning in the plastic. you will have to pry out on the fan cover as your trying to get the bolt out. If that doesn't work your going to have to break it & buy another you should be able to find one on Amazon. It happens to the cvt cover all the time.
Nice informative videos. My Massimo 500, 2017 model is getting fuel and fire. The injector is shooting fuel and spark plug has good spark. If I try to start it ,it won't start. Okay the strange thing is this. If I unbolt the injector and hit the key it will fire up from the fuel in the intake. When I bolt the injector back on and crank it, it won't fire off. Any ideas would be great. Thank you.
Hey Tim. I would definitely check your cam timing. They are notorious for stretching the cam chain & making them skip time. I think the reason it fires up after you remove the injector is because it's letting more air in & helping release compression. That would be my first check & also make sure your cam lobes are not wore off also
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I'll check that. Is it possible to set the time without unbolting the head? I replaced the timing chain and gear and slides several months ago and it's quite a job. Thank you for the reply.
Yeah you can set timing with out removing the head. you should have set the cam timing with the head bolted down. It's a little bit if a pain but just might have to take the cam sprocket loose.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 - 2018 Vector 500 --- Desperately needing a pro like you to make a timing video. That would help a ton of youtube DIY techs. Awesome videos, and keep the vids coming!
I'm currently shooting a video on a 500 top end rebuild. It will have all the steps on how to time it up & what to to look for. If you shot me an email @ Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com I'll send you a copy of how to time your 500
Okay one more? My valves were extremely tight. I readjusted back to spec. Now I hear them chattering and loss of power? Any ideas?
I've ran a across a similar problem before. After I adjusted then to spec & ran the motor again I had extreme valve chattering. Well I went back in & checked all my clearances again & they clearance was way off. So I would check them one more time. The loss of power could be from the valves not opening up as much as they should. Let me know what you fine.
Excellent, informative and efficient videos. I like the way you go at repairs in general. If it can be cleaned/adjusted, do it. If it needs replacement, do it. Seems like you’re a mechanic people can trust. You know, have their best interests in mind (versus maximum invoice). Which is basically why I do repairs myself if possible, assuming I know or can learn enough through videos like this to do so. I’d prefer to be fishing. My MSU 500 has a lot of these same issues. Hopefully not the CAM wear though. Isn’t the chunks in the oil at a change out, wet clutch shoe pad particles and thus a tell-tell it needs replaced? So if/when you start seeing really dark oil with particles in it (whatever the clutch pads are made of), time to replace the wet clutch? Other videos say the put a little (measured amount) grease on the clutch’s sliders/weights. You’re saying don’t though, right?
Hey Greg. Thanks for stopping in & checking put my channel. I had to reply to you comments with my email. For some reason I would let me reply back through my channel. As for as putting grease on any part of the clutch is a huge no no. What ends up happening will grease on the sliders is all the rubber belt debris & anything else that might end up getting suckes down the air inlet tube to your clutch will just start sticking to that grease causing it to get thick & gummy then your clutch pressure plate with start to stick & not operate properly. Then you start to burn up belts with bad clutch engagement & disengagement. I have seen it lead to a whole mess of problems.
@@cylewinkler916 Thanks. I go through wet shoe pads/drum about every two years. Maybe that’s a contributing factor. It came from the factory with grease on them (weights/slides) and yes, it’s a mess at replacement time. I clean the old off and reapply, per some other instructions. I’ll try this, though from now on. Makes sense and thanks again. Not sure about why you had to reply via email. I don’t see anything abnormal in my settings that would cause it.
Hey Greg I was actually on the phone with Massimo today & they said to add a touch of grease to the sliders & rollers to help with wear & flat spotting the rollers
The 400 Buck I own has gotten where it will not go into reverse or park. It will go into High and Low and drive forward. What should I look into to repair this issue?
Hey Randy. I'll have to do a little digging on that. My question is will it go into reverse are park when it's turned off? I would check you shift linkage to make sure it's adjusted correctly first off. The possibly the shift shaft.
Hey great vids. I’ve got a massimo msu500 that is burning oil and began smoking bad when after I inherited the utv and put proper engine oil levels in it. A mechanic I am told in the past said it needed valve seals. Any guidance or videos how to approach that seal replacement. Trying to determine if it’s going to be easy or not. Thanks in advance.
I'm currently making a video on a 500 topend rebuild. I'll try to remember to talk about how to change the valve guide seals while I'm talking about the cam that I have to replace. Is it smoking all the time are just on start up? If it's smoking all the time it's going to need new rings at least bit if it's just on start up that would be valve guide seals.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 it’s steady smoking even when driving it. Thanks man. Really appreciate ya.
Question: I have the same UTV. The starter turns the motor but the piston does not move. Thoughts?
So when you say the starter turn over the motor, you are saying you can hear everything turn over like it wants to start but to piston isn't moving up & down? Are you sure the motor is actually turning over? What happen prior to this issue?
Sorry man.. I just noticed this replay. Thank you. You are helping me on another thread.@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394
I have a Massimo 500 and took a ride tonight with the wife when we heard an odd noise. Started smelling oil burning. Took it back home and found the timing cover cracked and 2 pieces missing from it. What would cause this?
R.M.B. when you say timing cover are you referring to the one up top are the stator cover?
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 the top cover on the side of the head. Where the cam is located. I believe the cam moved out and contacted the cover then moved back into place. Exhaust got loud at first telling me it was trying to exhaust thru the intake. What could cause the cam to shift out and then back into position?
I have never seen a cam do that because of the cam lobs usually restricted that. I have seen the cam sprocket bolts back out causing contact. I've seen timing chain tensioner lose tension causing slack but usually not causing your issue. Sende a email with pics so I cam maybe help you out
I got a 16 cub cadet challenger 500 that will not shift out of H. The clutches and belt all checked good. The shifter linkages and the safety brake switch are good. It has to be something inside the shifter but I haven't been able to find much on the inner workings of the gear selection part of the transmission. Any idea on how I could fix this?
Hey Karl thanks for checking out the channel. My first question will be can you get it to shift out of high gear while it's setting still? engine not running or anything? The transmissions in those are very uncomplicated on the insides but you do have to split your engine cases to access it. now if you're able to take it out of gear while the engine isn't running then it's going to be most likely a primary clutch issue. I know you say they check out perfectly fine. also make sure that your idle is about 1200 to 1400 RPMs. when you're adjusting the shift linkage it needs to be in neutral. And also there's a little side cover where there is the shift shaft sticking out You can take that off and make sure that the two dots are lined up on the shift paws.
It will not shift out of high at any time. Even with the engine off it will not move hardly more then the give in the linkage.
Yeah Carl I would probably take the shift link above and check out the ship pause. And if those look like they're OK and the teeth aren't chewed up on that it's definitely sound like an internal issue. And on those I believe the transmission is internal on the motor not separate periods so the cases would have to be split. The pop the possibility that you do have a bent shift fork that seems to be a pretty big issue with those. Hate to be the bear bad news on that.
Thank you for your insight. It has been very helpful. Something like a bent shift fork was what I was think it might be but couldn't find how you got into it to check. Now I have a better idea of what to expect and do if I decide to dig into it more. Thank you again.
Hey Karl. So sorry but I must of never saw this comment. I apologize. Did you ever find the cause of your sifting issues?
I have a Massimo 500 I bought in real good shape. I adjusted the idle and its runs fine but after about 20 mins it doesn't stay running/idle and seems to get too hot. is this a coolant problem, or do i need to drain the recommended hypoid gear oil? The heat is coming from behind the throttle body.
Hey Joe V. For the heat issue I would definitely check your coolant level & make sure your fan is kicking on to help circulate air. I have also seen the water pumps fail on them also. You can also try resetting your ecu my starting it up & giving you unit full throttle for 3 seconds & then shut off the key with full throttle still & hold it there for another 5 seconds. Then restart it. You also could have a faulty IAC motor are possibly an air leak if you have the fuel injected model.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I will look into that!
there's not a lot of places that can give knowledgeable advice on these machines. Thanks for the tips man hell yeah!
Where do u live I got a 2014 massimo an I can not figure it out
Hey Andrew. I'm located in Ozark Missouri. Southwest Missouri area. What seems to be the problem are problems?
Hey what's fuel pressure on these need to add fuel filter but Wana get one that will wrk
Hey David thanks for checking out the videos also thanks for the comment. You want at least 3bar which is roughly 43 to 44 psi. The fuel pump already has a fuel filter built onto it. but it definitely doesn't hurt to add an inline one at all.
Hey David. Sorry I never saw this comment. It should have around 3bar/ 42psi.
I swear 3/4 of Chinese sxs/atv issues are from people that do no maintenance to them.
That thing sucked in a crazy amount of dirt surprised it’s not smoking yet.
Hey when you replace parts like the one way bearing,intake boot etc etc do you use factory massimo/Hisun parts or what ever you can get off amazon?
I find some parts aren’t built as well as the genuine parts are.
I ordered one of those intake boots for my 2008 700 and the boot didn’t have a groove in out for the bell horn of the carb to fit into. I ended up taking a dremel to it and it’s a decent fit now but would be nice if it was as good as the factory Hisun part.
I try to upgrade certain parts with Yamaha parts when I can.
Hey Indeewoods. I do use some Amazon parts but you have to look really close at them to make sure they look the same. I ran into the same problem you have before myself. I do order a lot of parts from the manufacturer & then I'll compare to Amazon. A lot of my customers don't want to spend $$ in the factory part when they see it in Amazon. A lot are the same part but a lot are not. it's a hit & miss.
Also, is there a way to contact you directly with pics and videos so you could help diagnose the issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hey R.M.B. Hate to hear that. You can email me Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com
Where do you get your parts from? I have a Hisun 500 and need to replace some of the parts that have either worn out or are broken.
I was getting them from partsboss.com are the motorcycledoctor.com
curious to how many hours this machine had on it
Walter I honestly don't know. Bit it wasn't ever really taken care of properly either.
How did you clean the IEC motor?
Hey Heath. To clean the IAc motor you can take it off the throttle body & spray it down with some brake clean are electrical contact cleaner then hit it with some compressed air. Unfortunately most of the time when they get really nasty & dirty, they start to not work properly. If you suspect that it is going bad you can find the part on Amazon for about $60 to $70. I replace them all the time.
What to check when crank no start
Need to check spark, if you have spark, listen for fuel pump to cycle,check fuel pressure if it's a EFI unit. Aslo check to make sure your Injector is working. Check valve clearances, check chassis grounds. Check all connections for fitment & pull on every individual wire in the connectors to make sure they didn't come loose.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 electrical part is operating as it should found flat spots on cam intake and exhaust like shown in video including rocker arms
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 and intake valve is frozen shut from lack of oil
Glad you found the source of the problems. Hopefully you can get it fixed.
Where is the fuel filter. And injector at?
The fuel filter is built into the fuel pump alot of people put an inline fuel filter in & the injector is bolted to the intake. It's separate from the throttle body
How did you get all the metal out
I usually end up having to pull the motor split the cases and make sure it's all cleaned out on the inside. But this particular case here the customer didn't want to keep spending a bunch of money on it because they just used it for beating around the farm most of the time. So I just flushed it out a few different times with cheap oil Then did a regular oil change with Amsoil 10w-30 & new oil filter. Definitely not the way I like to do things.
Throttle cable attachment to the throttle cable My Massimo ran wide open without the cable
That doesn't make much sense unless the butterfly was also stuck wide open. Even if the TPS sensor was reading wrong it still wouldn't pull enough air with the butterfly closed to run wide open. That's an interesting dilemma. 🤔
Also check your intake for crack & air leaks. That will make it do the samething. The intakes are notorious for cracking & the little square black boxes on the intake crack also.
This Must Be The Older One They Make A Oil Fill Tube To Bring The Oil Level Up To Stop Oil Starvation To The Cam! I Just Run Mine Like A Lawnmower I Fill It Up Tell I See Oil About To Come Out Of The Oil Fill It Also Helps The Wet Clutch Last Longer! I Have Been Working On These Machines For Years Since 2015.
Hey Roy. Thanks for stopping by and checking out the channel. Yeah this is a little bit older one I know they added that filter to quite a few of the models. Never been a big fan of these machines but I'm about the only one in my area who works on them and has don't want to work in the past. So it's nice to have another technician who works on these things the bounce ideas off of lol.
Where are you located?
Hey Joe. I'm located in Southwest Missouri in the town of Ozark.
Where are you located Thx
Hey Keith. I'm located in Southwest Missouri in Ozark.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 ok we live in Montana used to live about 80 miles south of St Louis you seem very knowledgeable of UTV's what do you think of the massimo does it seam like it holds up compared to say Honda and yamaha I watched your video of the one you had to replace rhe I believe cam shaft it just seem like it wasn't really that old to have that much wear on it and Thanks for responding to my question
Well Keith it sounds like you might of grew up in my home town of Perryville Missouri. I would definitely stay away from any of the aftermarket Chinese stuff. They are nothing but problems. The Japanese brands might be more expensive but they are definitely the way to go. They are a million times better.
Adjust valves
Not sure what you are implying exactly when you say adjust vavles.
Massimo ran wide open without the cable
Were to far away to see what you are doing
@MikeB-dz9cu sorry about that. It's really tough to get close because I'm recording with a gopro.