Acouple of months ago I got a Swift SW350T (great advice - I love it) and then followed your sensible advice to replace the 100x oil objective with a normal 60x objective. I got a SWIFT 60X Plan Achromatic Objective which is 160/0.17 like all the others . I works fine - but has one snag : when swinging the obective in place after focussing on 40x objective the (springy) metal surround of the lens crashes into the coverslip. I have to defocus first by moving the stage down, move the objective into place and then move the stage back up to refocus. I can tell from the gradations on the fine control that its pretty much in the same plane as for the 40x objective. The crash is caused by geometry of the objective rear aperture when it is at an angle to the cover slip. Its a minor nuisance which I can live with, but I have a nagging query - did I do anything wrong in getting this objective?
I find the 60X is easier to work with than a 100X Oil. But, be careful what you order. I bought a "cheap" one for $71, which to many is not so cheap. But the same vendor had one with the same specs for $212. There was no difference in the specs. So I sent a message to the vendor asking why one was so much more expensive. The vendor said the more expensive one was made with better materials. Though skeptical, I ordered the more expensive one and compared them. It was like night and day! The cheap 60X was difficult to focus and the more expensive one was much much clearer. So, ask questions, especially on eBay.
I find it amazing that people are so rough with things, that they bang them up. I find this with anything second hand or "pre-owned." I have optics that I've owned for decades still in original condition.
These are the most frustrating thing to shop for ever. I bought one ("HAYEAR 5X-120X Industrial Zoom Lens for Digital Microscope Camera") that has 0.11-2x power, but there is no way to adjust the magnification power, just the focus. So I assume they mean it's really a 2x lens, and you move it further away to get towards 0.11x. Okay, that's great, I had to mount it on the ceiling to get the magnification way down, and that's fine, only that's not enough magnification now that my eyes have gotten worse. So do i want to buy a 1x, a 0.5x, or a 0.35x, or a 0.3x? A 1x would cut it in half, a .5 would cut it by 1/4, and a .3 by 1/7th... that i understand, but am I right in assuming what I have is really a 2x??? Why didn't they just call it a 2x? What muddies the water is that they said my 011x-2x lens was 5x-120x magnification which confuses everything, and I assume, just throw that specification out when shopping as that's the zoom level, not the magnifcation power. But what is up with these ranges of power??? Trying to find the right objective that fits your microscope and is free standing, not an adapter, not a hollow tube, has to be the most frustrating thing ever.
I own a Swift Trinocular now and want to change the 100x Oilobjektiv in a 60x Objectiv too. Do you know if the objectives are normed? I cannot find anything about swift-objectivs and their norming.
if you're focusing right for the old 60x objectives, your new olympus objectives is actually significantly sharper, considering both are probably "research grade"?
hello i bought (on the way to delivery) a svbony microscope (sv601) but I want to replace the scanner with 100x occasionally, is this microscope brand (model) possible for replacement by a third party objective?
Microbehunter hello, can you make or do you already have a video about barlow lens, explaining the use of such lens? Thanks in advance, love your channel. Cheers
Kind regards. I have an Olympus CH2 microscope with the companion objectives that you present in this video. I have a 60x lens like the one you have replaced and I am also looking for a 60x Olympus like the one you present here, but it is very difficult to find and very expensive. I ask you for advice based on your intuition: will a 60x plan-achromatic objective that abounds on AliExpress be able to compete in quality with the 60x Olympus that you purchased? Thank you.
Yes and no, it depends also on your expectations. If it is also a 160mm objective with a 195mm conjugate distance (the normal size), then it will fit physically. But you will lost parfocality. This means that when switching from your 40x to the new 60x, it will be out of focus, and if you are not lucky, you might actually crash the objective into the slide. Workaround, is to remember into what direction and how much you have to turn the fine focus before rotating the 60x into place. You could exchange all of the objectives of course, then you do not have this issue, as they are all of the same series. Thare are also shorter 160mm objectives with a 185mm conjugate distance, but these are for introductory microscopes. My old CH2 Olympus does also have 185 objectives, this was before they changed the standard. About the quality, it again depends on the objective itself. There are the cheap silver objectives (they are all in silver color) and they have a lower quality. You might want to check out my other channel (microbehunter microscopy) for info about conjugate distance and objectives.
I really appreciate your attention. I am a retired science teacher "in love" with microscopy since I was 14 and I am happy to have discovered your channels on TH-cam. In reference to our previous conversation, I inform you that I cannot find black planachromatic objective lenses on AliExpress, they only offer silver ones. Thanks again!!! I wish you health and luck always. A cordial greeting from Granada (Spain).
When you say you are closing the diaphragm to increase contrast, where is it exactly that you're adjusting? I have an older AO 110 Microstar microscope, and I'm learning to use it, and I'd like to know exactly where and how to adjust mine to achieve the same thing. so, where is the diaphragm that you're adjusting? Oh, I'm also going to look to see if you have a vid on exactly how to adjust microscopes for dark field viewing. On my AO microscope, it doesn't seem to be a simple matter of flipping a knob to introduce a filter. To get anything approximating dark field, I have to make many adjustments, including turning a fidgety "Filter" knob, and also turning a "Diaphragm" knob. Even then, the background doesn't get really dark or black. I'm not sure my microscope is equipped for dark field. How do I know? Many thx for your extremely helpful vids.
On the condensor. The thing under your desk/table. There should be a "knob" that can be easily moved sideways. There might also be smt written on it like 4x, 10x, 40x, 100x. If you close it the contrast at one point gets really high. Hope I helped a bit.
Okay, I watched more. He used the field diaphragm. It is just above your light source. I would rather work with the aperture diaphragm (what I discribed) or I would turn the condensor down to the max (just for the specimen). After that: Koehler!! It might be the case that you can't koehler or that your microscope is so old that you don't have the possibility to Koehler and that you don't have a field diaphragm. In this case you might be able to turn the condensor down. Or you simply can't raise contrast
Fine adjustment. Everything above 4x should be done with fine adjustment. If you lose the focus with the high power objectives, then one should restart with the 4x (and use coarse) because this is safer and faster. Safer because with the coarse you risk crashing the objective into the slide.
Hello. Im trying to buy an objective. I just need to know if your old generic 60x objective is an amscope 60x. Please i need to know what objective it is because i have tested a lot of them and expend so much money and didn`t get good results.
Acouple of months ago I got a Swift SW350T (great advice - I love it) and then followed your sensible advice to replace the 100x oil objective with a normal 60x objective. I got a SWIFT 60X Plan Achromatic Objective which is 160/0.17 like all the others . I works fine - but has one snag : when swinging the obective in place after focussing on 40x objective the (springy) metal surround of the lens crashes into the coverslip. I have to defocus first by moving the stage down, move the objective into place and then move the stage back up to refocus. I can tell from the gradations on the fine control that its pretty much in the same plane as for the 40x objective. The crash is caused by geometry of the objective rear aperture when it is at an angle to the cover slip. Its a minor nuisance which I can live with, but I have a nagging query - did I do anything wrong in getting this objective?
I find the 60X is easier to work with than a 100X Oil. But, be careful what you order. I bought a "cheap" one for $71, which to many is not so cheap. But the same vendor had one with the same specs for $212. There was no difference in the specs. So I sent a message to the vendor asking why one was so much more expensive. The vendor said the more expensive one was made with better materials. Though skeptical, I ordered the more expensive one and compared them. It was like night and day! The cheap 60X was difficult to focus and the more expensive one was much much clearer. So, ask questions, especially on eBay.
I find it amazing that people are so rough with things, that they bang them up. I find this with anything second hand or "pre-owned." I have optics that I've owned for decades still in original condition.
How do you size the screw part of the objective for screwing the objective into the microscope, or are they all the same size?
These are the most frustrating thing to shop for ever. I bought one ("HAYEAR 5X-120X Industrial Zoom Lens for Digital Microscope Camera") that has 0.11-2x power, but there is no way to adjust the magnification power, just the focus. So I assume they mean it's really a 2x lens, and you move it further away to get towards 0.11x. Okay, that's great, I had to mount it on the ceiling to get the magnification way down, and that's fine, only that's not enough magnification now that my eyes have gotten worse.
So do i want to buy a 1x, a 0.5x, or a 0.35x, or a 0.3x? A 1x would cut it in half, a .5 would cut it by 1/4, and a .3 by 1/7th... that i understand, but am I right in assuming what I have is really a 2x??? Why didn't they just call it a 2x?
What muddies the water is that they said my 011x-2x lens was 5x-120x magnification which confuses everything, and I assume, just throw that specification out when shopping as that's the zoom level, not the magnifcation power. But what is up with these ranges of power???
Trying to find the right objective that fits your microscope and is free standing, not an adapter, not a hollow tube, has to be the most frustrating thing ever.
I own a Swift Trinocular now and want to change the 100x Oilobjektiv in a 60x Objectiv too.
Do you know if the objectives are normed? I cannot find anything about swift-objectivs and their norming.
if you're focusing right for the old 60x objectives, your new olympus objectives is actually significantly sharper, considering both are probably "research grade"?
hello i bought (on the way to delivery) a svbony microscope (sv601) but I want to replace the scanner with 100x occasionally,
is this microscope brand (model) possible for replacement by a third party objective?
Microbehunter hello, can you make or do you already have a video about barlow lens, explaining the use of such lens?
Thanks in advance, love your channel.
Cheers
Can a dry objective be replaced with an oil immersion objective?
Where can I buy one 60x optic for my swift 380T?
Kind regards. I have an Olympus CH2 microscope with the companion objectives that you present in this video.
I have a 60x lens like the one you have replaced and I am also looking for a 60x Olympus like the one you present here, but it is very difficult to find and very expensive.
I ask you for advice based on your intuition: will a 60x plan-achromatic objective that abounds on AliExpress be able to compete in quality with the 60x Olympus that you purchased?
Thank you.
Yes and no, it depends also on your expectations. If it is also a 160mm objective with a 195mm conjugate distance (the normal size), then it will fit physically. But you will lost parfocality. This means that when switching from your 40x to the new 60x, it will be out of focus, and if you are not lucky, you might actually crash the objective into the slide. Workaround, is to remember into what direction and how much you have to turn the fine focus before rotating the 60x into place. You could exchange all of the objectives of course, then you do not have this issue, as they are all of the same series. Thare are also shorter 160mm objectives with a 185mm conjugate distance, but these are for introductory microscopes. My old CH2 Olympus does also have 185 objectives, this was before they changed the standard. About the quality, it again depends on the objective itself. There are the cheap silver objectives (they are all in silver color) and they have a lower quality. You might want to check out my other channel (microbehunter microscopy) for info about conjugate distance and objectives.
I really appreciate your attention. I am a retired science teacher "in love" with microscopy since I was 14 and I am happy to have discovered your channels on TH-cam.
In reference to our previous conversation, I inform you that I cannot find black planachromatic objective lenses on AliExpress, they only offer silver ones.
Thanks again!!! I wish you health and luck always.
A cordial greeting from Granada (Spain).
Excellent, keep those videos coming brother!
ha ha , , so funny at the start, it reminds me of pass the parcel, , ,
HEYY. What is the old 60x objective?? (the generic, no name one)
When you say you are closing the diaphragm to increase contrast, where is it exactly that you're adjusting? I have an older AO 110 Microstar microscope, and I'm learning to use it, and I'd like to know exactly where and how to adjust mine to achieve the same thing. so, where is the diaphragm that you're adjusting? Oh, I'm also going to look to see if you have a vid on exactly how to adjust microscopes for dark field viewing. On my AO microscope, it doesn't seem to be a simple matter of flipping a knob to introduce a filter. To get anything approximating dark field, I have to make many adjustments, including turning a fidgety "Filter" knob, and also turning a "Diaphragm" knob. Even then, the background doesn't get really dark or black. I'm not sure my microscope is equipped for dark field. How do I know? Many thx for your extremely helpful vids.
On the condensor. The thing under your desk/table.
There should be a "knob" that can be easily moved sideways. There might also be smt written on it like 4x, 10x, 40x, 100x. If you close it the contrast at one point gets really high.
Hope I helped a bit.
Okay, I watched more. He used the field diaphragm. It is just above your light source. I would rather work with the aperture diaphragm (what I discribed) or I would turn the condensor down to the max (just for the specimen). After that: Koehler!!
It might be the case that you can't koehler or that your microscope is so old that you don't have the possibility to Koehler and that you don't have a field diaphragm.
In this case you might be able to turn the condensor down. Or you simply can't raise contrast
What is the blue artifact that shows up near the center of the field of view?
Can I ask? When using 60X, do you do it together with the coarse adjustment knob or fine adjustment knob?
Fine adjustment. Everything above 4x should be done with fine adjustment. If you lose the focus with the high power objectives, then one should restart with the 4x (and use coarse) because this is safer and faster. Safer because with the coarse you risk crashing the objective into the slide.
@@Microbehunter thank you so much sir. It really helps to my biology class.
how do you know when the objective is parfocal ???
The only sure way to know is when the objective is from the same series.
When should I change my microscopes lenses?
only if they are damaged, for cleaning, or if you want an objective with a different quality/magnification etc.
i see that your condensor-iris is not centerd
Hello. Im trying to buy an objective. I just need to know if your old generic 60x objective is an amscope 60x. Please i need to know what objective it is because i have tested a lot of them and expend so much money and didn`t get good results.
If you are interested in buying Objective lens please get in touch with us. www.seiwaeurope.com We are a Japanese manufacturer company.
I like to use 4x 10x 40x and 100x I don't have a 20 or 60 or 80
Haha finally the video I needed haha
👍
Is that a DIY CO2 generator behind you on the windowsill?
Much simpler! A jar with algae and I put a tube into it with air bubbles (from an aquarium) to put CO2 from the air in.
Microbehunter Merry Christmas!
Hey Mr
You have many people asking you questions
Where the fuck are you?