I've used WD-40 to remove surface rust on tools and knives, but I always make sure to remove it and really use a proper protectant. WD-40 can build up and become gummy over time. This is more of an issue with something like a firearm or a folding knife with small moving parts, but I would still not use it as a preserving oil. Something like Ballistol which is a versatile lubricating oil that is wood and leather safe is better to lubricate and protect. It has a mineral oil base. (More commonly used in the firearms community than the sword community.) A more traditional option is Renaissance Wax. It is used in museum conservation community. Personally, for basic oiling and cleaning, I like microfiber cloths over paper towels. You can wash and reuse them and then tend not to leave residue on the blades. If you are storing for a longer period of time, err on the side of storing it wet.
@@lonelystrategos I tend to distrust ballistol as a general preservative because of the water I have not tested the stuff long term though, only ever used it for very specific uses.
Bladesmith here... if you're storing a blade, use vaseline. One little dab will caot a big bowie and won't need to be redone every month like oils. Firearms require proper CLP.
Thank you Shad & Tyranth, this was illuminating...I didn't know that ordinary WD-40 could be used to clean & maintain a sword. Other sword video content creators who shall not be named have said that you need this, that, and the other expensive cleaner that isn't normally available locally to "properly" clean your blade. The WD-40 bit alone makes me glad I watched this one!
I would caution wd use on guns. As a cleaner or water dispersal it's OK and on the outside to prevent rust. However it doesn't have enough viscosity or heat resistance also puddles of it dry into a sticky goop that gums the operation esp if combined with carbon.
If you want a cheap gun lube a seal taught me to use 10w30 motor oil. It's heat resistant and designed to operate in a high heat high friction environment like motor, or very similar firearms
Note: In a general sense, use mineral, sewing machine, or gun oil for preserving the blade. WD-40 will work in a pinch but can evaporate pretty quickly.
Yeah gun oil is a must. That thing works wonders. Obviously you have to take into account how often you use something. Gun oil is great, because guns are usually left alone for like 6 months when there is no hunting season, so they need to last a while. If you're using your sword every week WD-40 after every use will work reasonably well.
WD-40 (Water Displacer 40th formula) also gums up over time. Ballistol if you want to oil and reoil often (working blades etc.) Renaissance Wax for long term
Gunsmith advice here, I recommend using steel wool and oil or wd-40 to remove rust. The steel wool will happily remove the rust, but it will not sctratch the steel. It also does not remove bluing. Also, wd-40 and many other oils are not great for leather so try to avoid contact with the grip. I would recommend a product called ballistol, especially in its non-aerosol versons, as it does not damage leather or wood and is also not harmful to get on your skin.
Bluing IS rust... and anything that can remove rust *can* remove bluing if you're not careful with the amount of pressure you use. You're used to only using the appropriate force, so you think steel wool won't remove bluing because it doesn't when YOU use it... but n00bs won't use it as gently as you do, and they likely will remove bluing with it... and then they'll get some Permablue or Oxphoblu and make an uneven finish... or hire you or me to refinish it after they mess it up three times and run out of cold bluing solution.
I don't own swords, but for my knives I use steel wool for rust removal, I find it works well and doesn't scratch the surface. I use a bit of toothpaste at the end for some light polishing.
You'll get it. Took me a decade, but I got the sword of my dreams. (Albion Alexandria with a Tod Cutler scabbard.) Be persistent. It can be done, and I made way under minimum wage. Think of it this way; 7$ a day for a year is 2500$, which would buy most swords+scabbard. 7$ a day is less than going out for lunch.
That’s why wall hanger display swords are stainless steel. Since they’re not meant to be used, they don’t need to be super durable or hold an edge well, but they do need to be low maintenance so you can just leave it there and not have to do anything with it.
I collect old rifles (several of which are over a century old) so i use the same gun oil on my swords. Ballistol or CLP. Brand is house choice i just go with Break Free, Hoppes and Ballistol. WD doesnt have the staying power for storage, it evaporates and sometimes leave behind a gunk (faster than a CLP would). I also wouldnt be to keen on getting that stuff on leather, rubber or stained wood. Thats something else Ballistol or CLP has an advantage with, its safe on leather and wood and helps to preserve that as well
Interesting topic, I have seen this sort of debate a lot of the past 40 years when it comes to cleaning firearms, but never in the context of maintenance of edged weapons. Always assume it was basically "wipe with oily rag and call it a day".
While I certainly understand the desire, I don't think it'll ever happen. Stainless steel contains a high amount of chromium and very little carbon. To little of one, and too much of the other, will cause the blade to no longer be "stainless." It's a sad fact.
@@mordredthehero Well there is 440C, which is high carbon and stainless. But it requires way too much equipment and expertise to make profitable swords out of it. It's simply not cost effective or practical to properly create a functional sword out of it. Or simply put, carbon steel is simply cheaper and people are wanting to accept the flaws of the steel and/or "not historically accurate". Whatever remains is a very very small client base. There are knivemakers that make knives out of 440C and produce high quality that stands up to the abuse of regular use. But they ain't cheap.
It would have to have either a stainless steel outer coating or a different composition of carbon steel that doesn’t oxidize. I wonder about the type of steel used on SpaceX’s Starship. I’m not sure how they prevent rust, but it’s a strong steel (not sure if it has the characteristics of spring steel though).
Thank you for the tutorial. Even though I don't own any swords, this feels like a great addition to the back catalogue for certain aspects of your viewership.
I thought i wouldnt get anything from this video but i clicked to support the channel and one thing i got from this video is i am gonna try out bellwright.
something you could also consider if you or someone you know is a welder or uses something similar as a day job, brassing the steel components, so long as you dont care if it will ruin the tempering i own a knife made from a high end circular saw, *checks date* and next month it will be 2 years old, its never received any maintenance, dident have a sheath until April this year, the only things i have done to this knife was brassing the blade and blueing the edge with heat this knife has becoming my universal opener, anything from letters to tough plastics and cardboard, its held up rather well all things considered since all this time its been held in my room that basically never drops below 20c
Synthetic motor oil is often overlooked, and is particularly effective at lubricating firearms. I mean you’d be hard pressed to find a lubricant that has been more meticulously manufactured for that exact purpose.
BELLWRIGHT FUCK YEA! God i love that game. Right now i've just reached the stage of mail, while all my men are still in just a gambeson. No shit best sponsor you've ever had, shad. An actually good product at a good price.
Todd from Todd's workshop said to use "3-in-1 multipurpose oil" for metal, if you can find that in your area. And a bit of renaissance or similar wax for leather. None of these fancy cleaners and certainly not oil for scabbards (you want them stiff, not soft).
Lemme get pedantic for a sec: 3 in 1 means the product will Clean/Lubricate/Protect. This is where CLP gets its name. Many products will do these three things. WD40 is not among them. P.s. Ballistol is the bee's knees.
Shad, have you ever put mustard patterns on your sword? It’s pretty cool, you just use mustard and it makes the sword look cool. I hear it also creates a protective layer as well.
One thing I wonder is if historical swords were ever “finished”. Guns, for most of human history, were also made of carbon steel, but most guns had a finish applied to them to resist rust as opposed to being left “in the white”. Bluing, parkerizing, nowadays we have fancy Cerakotes and the like, etc. Was that ever done with swords? I still clean and maintain my guns every time I shoot them, just because I like clean guns, but thanks to having a finish, it’s not strictly necessary.
I really would like to know how well a physical vapor deposition (PVD or DLC) coating would work for a sword. It applies a microns thick coating of TiN onto many metals and that would presumably protect it from rusting and give the edge a longer life . At least it does for carbon steel knifes. And who wouldn't want a gold colored sword?
while i use firearm oil on my swords over wd40. i also only oil them maybe once every 6 months for the ones I regularly handle and have no rust on any of them, and closer to once every 2 years for the ones that just sit around gathering dust
What about decorative swords? I have a decorative carbon steel sword that is purely decorative and will hang on the wall. I got it months ago and can’t hang it on the wall yet. So it’s under my bed in the box, I’ve taken it out a couple of times, but I’ve kept the plastic wrapped around it to keep it moist from the oil that came with on it.
Great video. This is something I've been watching to see for my own weapons. 1 major question though. If you aren't using the sword regularly, how often would you apply fresh oil? Weekly, monthly, annually, etc?
I apply oil to my steel tools including knives and machetes that are kept outside in a toolbox that is far from air tight once every year to 2 years. I use 3 in 1 oil and wipe the oil on with a rag (old cut up shirt) so that the metal looks wet. I found that some sheaths will wick the oil away from the blade and I need to reapply more often until the sheath has absorbed as much oil as it can. This has discolored a wood sheath. I keep the leather sheaths in my closet with my leather belts where I see them daily and I apply leather conditioner whenever they look like they need it. If the leather looks dull or dry it needs conditioner.
There was this inverse curved meter tall heavy sword-like cleaver I saw when I visited a friend's country home in India. They used it for sacrifices and stuff, I think. They used a healthy coat of mustard oil, if I remember correctly, after each use, and kept it wrapped in cloth.
I'm sure it wasnt, but I can't be the only person who read this title and though this was inspired by a certain truck that came out recently that need not be named.
Alright I will throw this question out their just out of general curiosity and maybe to start a discussion. Why aren't blades painted? I read somewhere online that it could affect how deep the cut is, but I am curious if anyone has ever actually tested that because I suspect even if it did have a cut reducing effect it would be pretty minimal to the point of not really mattering. If you're using a sword daily, I could see where paint getting scratched/knocked off could be a problem but accept on an active battle front that wouldn't really be a concern. So, part of me wonders if using oil to protect the blade is more of an exercise in discipline rather than a legitimate need even from a historical since. If you have more to add please comment because I am honestly curious.
Have to admit I have always wondered how much maintenance a sword would take, and I can only imagine that iron swords are even worse and why bronze supplanted it. That said, I am always gratified in movies and films showing the antagonist cleaning blood off their sword because blood it terrible on steel unless it is stainless. Thanks for the knowledge drop!
Try Ballistol - I find it's better than WD-40 as it doesn't seem to collect dust quite as much , same price point, and it's much better in terms of your health. It doesn't have any petroleum vapors/carcinogens. It's made out of cosmetics grade mineral oil and alcohol and it can be used on leather and steel in equal portion. Very good for firearms, and armor with leather straps etc. I've used it religiously on all my LARP kit and the more you use it the less you need to use it.
ANY oil will work for swords - vegetable, animal fat, petrol based, etc. I use gun oil most of the time because I have guns and I get the stuff cheap and in quantity. There isn't anything particularly difficult about it. The only real concern is the smell of your oil of choice when it ages. Bacon grease makes your sword smell great for a while - but rancid, it reeks.
Wax. Use wax polish. It will come off eventually if you handle whatever you put it on but for display pieces nothing beats it. A cheaper alternative is to just rub a tea candle on what you need to protect. It will protect the metal from moisture but won't look as good.
Hey guys, Sandflex handblocks are excellent mild abrasives for swords. Also, you can use mineral oil as a cheaper alternative to WD-40. Question: Do Australians really call Scotchbrite pads "scrubbies"? Just wondering.....
Personally, for simple maintenence, O like to take my sword on three passes: wipe it down with a damp cloth, dry it off, wipe it down again with rubbing alcohol on cotton strips, and finally oil it with parrafin oil, again on cotton strips.
It is precisely this point that dissuades me from purchasing a sword : rust. I have bushcraft knives that I use from time to time. Inox are fine, but carbon ones rust easily. And even if maintained after the fact, they keep a mark. If I buy a sword, it will be a sword forged by a master craftsman, which will become the one of the family. We're talking about a big project numbering in the thousands. If it is so that it shows traces of rust after 3 weeks, it is really a deterrent.
I bought the cheapest katana I could find that was not stainless steel and I use cooking oil on it because that is what is close by. Are there any problems with that? I know the oil could go rancid eventually but it is such a small amount that it hasn't bothered me yet
DO NOT Use WD-40. It will rust your swords. This is common knowledge to even brand new HEMA enthusiasts and hobbyests proving Shad has no idea what hes talking about.
Balistol is awesome for cleaning and oiling swords. It's ment for maintaining guns, but it's great on metal woods and leathers. Smells like shit, but an awesome product.
the sword Shad is holding here is gorgeous. Even the scabbard is beautiful.
Lockwood is “the Lamborghini of swords” - Cerberusarms
I've used WD-40 to remove surface rust on tools and knives, but I always make sure to remove it and really use a proper protectant. WD-40 can build up and become gummy over time. This is more of an issue with something like a firearm or a folding knife with small moving parts, but I would still not use it as a preserving oil.
Something like Ballistol which is a versatile lubricating oil that is wood and leather safe is better to lubricate and protect. It has a mineral oil base. (More commonly used in the firearms community than the sword community.)
A more traditional option is Renaissance Wax. It is used in museum conservation community.
Personally, for basic oiling and cleaning, I like microfiber cloths over paper towels. You can wash and reuse them and then tend not to leave residue on the blades.
If you are storing for a longer period of time, err on the side of storing it wet.
I swear by CLP on most things
I hear ballistol is good for protecting guns that you may lose in a boating accident.
@@lonelystrategos I tend to distrust ballistol as a general preservative because of the water I have not tested the stuff long term though, only ever used it for very specific uses.
Bladesmith here... if you're storing a blade, use vaseline. One little dab will caot a big bowie and won't need to be redone every month like oils.
Firearms require proper CLP.
Thank you Shad & Tyranth, this was illuminating...I didn't know that ordinary WD-40 could be used to clean & maintain a sword. Other sword video content creators who shall not be named have said that you need this, that, and the other expensive cleaner that isn't normally available locally to "properly" clean your blade. The WD-40 bit alone makes me glad I watched this one!
WD-40 really is useful in any situation.
In life you need two things. WD-40 and Duck tape. If you can't fix something with either of those. There isn't much hope.
WD-40 is also great for gun maintenance for those that are allowed to have those. Same exact principles
I would caution wd use on guns. As a cleaner or water dispersal it's OK and on the outside to prevent rust. However it doesn't have enough viscosity or heat resistance also puddles of it dry into a sticky goop that gums the operation esp if combined with carbon.
If you want a cheap gun lube a seal taught me to use 10w30 motor oil. It's heat resistant and designed to operate in a high heat high friction environment like motor, or very similar firearms
Note: In a general sense, use mineral, sewing machine, or gun oil for preserving the blade. WD-40 will work in a pinch but can evaporate pretty quickly.
Yeah gun oil is a must. That thing works wonders. Obviously you have to take into account how often you use something. Gun oil is great, because guns are usually left alone for like 6 months when there is no hunting season, so they need to last a while. If you're using your sword every week WD-40 after every use will work reasonably well.
WD-40 (Water Displacer 40th formula) also gums up over time.
Ballistol if you want to oil and reoil often (working blades etc.)
Renaissance Wax for long term
Gunsmith advice here, I recommend using steel wool and oil or wd-40 to remove rust. The steel wool will happily remove the rust, but it will not sctratch the steel. It also does not remove bluing. Also, wd-40 and many other oils are not great for leather so try to avoid contact with the grip. I would recommend a product called ballistol, especially in its non-aerosol versons, as it does not damage leather or wood and is also not harmful to get on your skin.
Bluing IS rust... and anything that can remove rust *can* remove bluing if you're not careful with the amount of pressure you use. You're used to only using the appropriate force, so you think steel wool won't remove bluing because it doesn't when YOU use it... but n00bs won't use it as gently as you do, and they likely will remove bluing with it... and then they'll get some Permablue or Oxphoblu and make an uneven finish... or hire you or me to refinish it after they mess it up three times and run out of cold bluing solution.
I don't own swords, but for my knives I use steel wool for rust removal, I find it works well and doesn't scratch the surface. I use a bit of toothpaste at the end for some light polishing.
One day I shall myself returning to this video when I own such a sword😂I can certainly dream
You'll get it. Took me a decade, but I got the sword of my dreams. (Albion Alexandria with a Tod Cutler scabbard.) Be persistent. It can be done, and I made way under minimum wage. Think of it this way; 7$ a day for a year is 2500$, which would buy most swords+scabbard.
7$ a day is less than going out for lunch.
This is why stainless steel is perfect for wall hangers.
That’s why wall hanger display swords are stainless steel. Since they’re not meant to be used, they don’t need to be super durable or hold an edge well, but they do need to be low maintenance so you can just leave it there and not have to do anything with it.
I collect old rifles (several of which are over a century old) so i use the same gun oil on my swords. Ballistol or CLP. Brand is house choice i just go with Break Free, Hoppes and Ballistol. WD doesnt have the staying power for storage, it evaporates and sometimes leave behind a gunk (faster than a CLP would). I also wouldnt be to keen on getting that stuff on leather, rubber or stained wood. Thats something else Ballistol or CLP has an advantage with, its safe on leather and wood and helps to preserve that as well
That's one handy video here, thank you guys !
Long live the Warhammer! It does not get bent, it is already blunt, and it can rust al it wants. Works against armour.
Relevant and Supportive Comment to feed the Algorangim
Interesting topic, I have seen this sort of debate a lot of the past 40 years when it comes to cleaning firearms, but never in the context of maintenance of edged weapons. Always assume it was basically "wipe with oily rag and call it a day".
I saw a video yesterday about a new way to clean rust off of metal. With a lazer. Guy was showing it off to clean a museum ship's light AA gun.
Drachinifel, I assume.
I want to see Tyranth and Oz do a review on Knights Watch.
Someone needs to invent stainless spring steel! Im too lazy for this crap 😂
While I certainly understand the desire, I don't think it'll ever happen. Stainless steel contains a high amount of chromium and very little carbon. To little of one, and too much of the other, will cause the blade to no longer be "stainless." It's a sad fact.
@@mordredtheheroHonshu makes kinda functional swords out of stainless steel
They won’t hold up to any sort of abuse but they’ll cut! (Probably)
@galactigo4463 That's way too many kinda's and probably's for my taste. Lol. Though, as an aspiring bladesmith, I'm probably a fair bit biased. Haha
@@mordredthehero Well there is 440C, which is high carbon and stainless. But it requires way too much equipment and expertise to make profitable swords out of it. It's simply not cost effective or practical to properly create a functional sword out of it.
Or simply put, carbon steel is simply cheaper and people are wanting to accept the flaws of the steel and/or "not historically accurate". Whatever remains is a very very small client base.
There are knivemakers that make knives out of 440C and produce high quality that stands up to the abuse of regular use. But they ain't cheap.
It would have to have either a stainless steel outer coating or a different composition of carbon steel that doesn’t oxidize. I wonder about the type of steel used on SpaceX’s Starship. I’m not sure how they prevent rust, but it’s a strong steel (not sure if it has the characteristics of spring steel though).
~ 04:00 - I think the high grit scratches as well, it's just that the scratches are fine enough they are less noticeable.
Thank you for the tutorial. Even though I don't own any swords, this feels like a great addition to the back catalogue for certain aspects of your viewership.
As a first time sword owner (for re enactment) this video is very useful thank you for this!
I generally use gun oil wipes for regular maintenance.
I love ALL THE SHADLANDS videos!!!! ❤
I thought i wouldnt get anything from this video but i clicked to support the channel and one thing i got from this video is i am gonna try out bellwright.
something you could also consider if you or someone you know is a welder or uses something similar as a day job, brassing the steel components, so long as you dont care if it will ruin the tempering
i own a knife made from a high end circular saw, *checks date* and next month it will be 2 years old, its never received any maintenance, dident have a sheath until April this year, the only things i have done to this knife was brassing the blade and blueing the edge with heat
this knife has becoming my universal opener, anything from letters to tough plastics and cardboard, its held up rather well all things considered since all this time its been held in my room that basically never drops below 20c
Synthetic motor oil is often overlooked, and is particularly effective at lubricating firearms. I mean you’d be hard pressed to find a lubricant that has been more meticulously manufactured for that exact purpose.
That bit for the handle leather will also be useful as I’m starting a project making (im sorry) leather armor
BELLWRIGHT FUCK YEA!
God i love that game. Right now i've just reached the stage of mail, while all my men are still in just a gambeson.
No shit best sponsor you've ever had, shad. An actually good product at a good price.
Todd from Todd's workshop said to use "3-in-1 multipurpose oil" for metal, if you can find that in your area.
And a bit of renaissance or similar wax for leather.
None of these fancy cleaners and certainly not oil for scabbards (you want them stiff, not soft).
Lemme get pedantic for a sec:
3 in 1 means the product will Clean/Lubricate/Protect. This is where CLP gets its name.
Many products will do these three things. WD40 is not among them.
P.s. Ballistol is the bee's knees.
Shad and jazza are two best youtubers in their respective fields. gg :)
This is great info, thanks guys!
I have seen that attaching a small pice of "magnesium" (I think) will stop metal from rusting
Shad, have you ever put mustard patterns on your sword? It’s pretty cool, you just use mustard and it makes the sword look cool. I hear it also creates a protective layer as well.
You should make a list of your swords on your website and where to get them
I use renaissance wax. Seems to work pretty well and its made for the british museum so it cant be that bad
One thing I wonder is if historical swords were ever “finished”. Guns, for most of human history, were also made of carbon steel, but most guns had a finish applied to them to resist rust as opposed to being left “in the white”. Bluing, parkerizing, nowadays we have fancy Cerakotes and the like, etc. Was that ever done with swords?
I still clean and maintain my guns every time I shoot them, just because I like clean guns, but thanks to having a finish, it’s not strictly necessary.
Breakfree CLP is pretty good to prevent rust.
I really would like to know how well a physical vapor deposition (PVD or DLC) coating would work for a sword. It applies a microns thick coating of TiN onto many metals and that would presumably protect it from rusting and give the edge a longer life . At least it does for carbon steel knifes. And who wouldn't want a gold colored sword?
while i use firearm oil on my swords over wd40. i also only oil them maybe once every 6 months for the ones I regularly handle and have no rust on any of them, and closer to once every 2 years for the ones that just sit around gathering dust
What about using one of the newer ceramic automotive coatings rather than oil?
I like mineral oil because it's food safe, use it for all my hand tools. Raw linseed oil for wood.
Sadly the only thing i have to maintain is my own sanity, but still good stuff to know.
What about decorative swords? I have a decorative carbon steel sword that is purely decorative and will hang on the wall. I got it months ago and can’t hang it on the wall yet. So it’s under my bed in the box, I’ve taken it out a couple of times, but I’ve kept the plastic wrapped around it to keep it moist from the oil that came with on it.
Great video. This is something I've been watching to see for my own weapons.
1 major question though.
If you aren't using the sword regularly, how often would you apply fresh oil? Weekly, monthly, annually, etc?
I apply oil to my steel tools including knives and machetes that are kept outside in a toolbox that is far from air tight once every year to 2 years.
I use 3 in 1 oil and wipe the oil on with a rag (old cut up shirt) so that the metal looks wet.
I found that some sheaths will wick the oil away from the blade and I need to reapply more often until the sheath has absorbed as much oil as it can. This has discolored a wood sheath.
I keep the leather sheaths in my closet with my leather belts where I see them daily and I apply leather conditioner whenever they look like they need it. If the leather looks dull or dry it needs conditioner.
There was this inverse curved meter tall heavy sword-like cleaver I saw when I visited a friend's country home in India. They used it for sacrifices and stuff, I think. They used a healthy coat of mustard oil, if I remember correctly, after each use, and kept it wrapped in cloth.
I'm sure it wasnt, but I can't be the only person who read this title and though this was inspired by a certain truck that came out recently that need not be named.
CYBERRRTTRUUCKK
you'd need a lot more wd40 for that one
@@nathansuss 🤫Do not speak of the monster lol
Man that takes a lot of effort!
Sticks don't need maintenance.
They don’t, but the drama starts when they’re bundled together
BIG STICK ENERGY!!!
Alright I will throw this question out their just out of general curiosity and maybe to start a discussion. Why aren't blades painted? I read somewhere online that it could affect how deep the cut is, but I am curious if anyone has ever actually tested that because I suspect even if it did have a cut reducing effect it would be pretty minimal to the point of not really mattering. If you're using a sword daily, I could see where paint getting scratched/knocked off could be a problem but accept on an active battle front that wouldn't really be a concern. So, part of me wonders if using oil to protect the blade is more of an exercise in discipline rather than a legitimate need even from a historical since. If you have more to add please comment because I am honestly curious.
Awesome!
Also the comments
Have to admit I have always wondered how much maintenance a sword would take, and I can only imagine that iron swords are even worse and why bronze supplanted it. That said, I am always gratified in movies and films showing the antagonist cleaning blood off their sword because blood it terrible on steel unless it is stainless.
Thanks for the knowledge drop!
do you have any tips for restoring swords/knifes?
Any advice on bent tip for any blades?
Good to know!
What is bluing, though?
It’s basically controlled rusting that adds a layer of oxides to the metal that keeps the metal underneath from rusting further
Essentially a chemical oxidation, a more stable rust if you will. Used a lot in rifles and heritage tools
Would rubbing the metal with chapstick work?
Try Ballistol - I find it's better than WD-40 as it doesn't seem to collect dust quite as much , same price point, and it's much better in terms of your health. It doesn't have any petroleum vapors/carcinogens. It's made out of cosmetics grade mineral oil and alcohol and it can be used on leather and steel in equal portion. Very good for firearms, and armor with leather straps etc. I've used it religiously on all my LARP kit and the more you use it the less you need to use it.
. I guess my question would be how different is this sword upkeep vs battlefield on campaign upkeep?
ANY oil will work for swords - vegetable, animal fat, petrol based, etc.
I use gun oil most of the time because I have guns and I get the stuff cheap and in quantity.
There isn't anything particularly difficult about it. The only real concern is the smell of your oil of choice when it ages. Bacon grease makes your sword smell great for a while - but rancid, it reeks.
I know this one. You hand it to the squire?
great content
Were swords passed down through the generations or were the just considered tools?
Can any please help what I should do if my sword have a wooden handle how to maintain that????
what a helpful video
Wax. Use wax polish. It will come off eventually if you handle whatever you put it on but for display pieces nothing beats it. A cheaper alternative is to just rub a tea candle on what you need to protect. It will protect the metal from moisture but won't look as good.
The WD stands for Water Displacement - it's specifically designed to remove traces of water from metal!
But it's bad with lubrication and long term surface protection.
You mean I can't just put swords inside the dish washer?! Dang it
Is gun oil safe to use?
What do yall think about wax
Good video.
Hey guys, Sandflex handblocks are excellent mild abrasives for swords. Also, you can use mineral oil as a cheaper alternative to WD-40. Question: Do Australians really call Scotchbrite pads "scrubbies"? Just wondering.....
I'm Australian and I've never heard scrubbies before, but I might start using it.
good for the beguiners to know
Personally, for simple maintenence, O like to take my sword on three passes: wipe it down with a damp cloth, dry it off, wipe it down again with rubbing alcohol on cotton strips, and finally oil it with parrafin oil, again on cotton strips.
It is precisely this point that dissuades me from purchasing a sword : rust.
I have bushcraft knives that I use from time to time. Inox are fine, but carbon ones rust easily.
And even if maintained after the fact, they keep a mark.
If I buy a sword, it will be a sword forged by a master craftsman, which will become the one of the family. We're talking about a big project numbering in the thousands.
If it is so that it shows traces of rust after 3 weeks, it is really a deterrent.
The original oil is still the best . For wood , leather , steel and of course wool . Lanolin. It is still the best after an eternal time of use.
I bought the cheapest katana I could find that was not stainless steel and I use cooking oil on it because that is what is close by. Are there any problems with that? I know the oil could go rancid eventually but it is such a small amount that it hasn't bothered me yet
Well folks maybe back in the day used natural oils because that’s all they had. Just a guess though
6:19 - 6:21 someone clip that
I think d40 destroys leather, but not sure about that.
Weathered weapons ar ba
Be careful with the WD-40. Penetrating oils are known to destroy wooden gun stocks over time. I imagine it will do the same if not worse to leather.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. It can breaks down lubricants you may use for storage.
It will also break down the oils in the leather & make it decay faster.
Lube the sword and the scabbard for everytime you put it in and out.
That's how a video get demonitized.
Everytime that lockwood is on screen i suddenly feel 3 grand slipping from my bank account, its so damn sexy
I use olive oil.
Wax.
Shad buy yourself a can of Aussie made CRC Longlife 3097 - ducks guts
Scotchbrite and WD-40? Commonly available products, NICE!
Innuendo. You're all welcome.
A good alternative to WD40 would be Ballistol.
How to clean blades with high manganese content ? Do not use ? for cleaning the blade.
polish that sword
WD-40 for the win again. There has not been a single week in my adult life that I haven't used WD-40
DO NOT Use WD-40. It will rust your swords. This is common knowledge to even brand new HEMA enthusiasts and hobbyests proving Shad has no idea what hes talking about.
WD-40 the solver of all problems! All hail WD-40!! 🙏
can you pls separate normal historic content from this strange shit?
you have 2 channel, try pls
Balistol is awesome for cleaning and oiling swords. It's ment for maintaining guns, but it's great on metal woods and leathers. Smells like shit, but an awesome product.