I got mine a week and a half ago for a road trip to Yosemite and Nevada. I have ZERO regrets purchasing it and the results I am getting are on par or better than shooting in color with my Canon and converting to B&W. I really enjoy slowing down and taking my time in composing and walking around doing so Street and building photography. Thanks for your review. It helped me with my decision to purchase one.
My experience is similar to yours. The tonal transitions of the images are breathtaking. The best camera for you is the camera that makes you want to take pictures, and this body is such a pleasure to operate that I went ahead and ordered the color version. However, the autofocus on both K3-iii’s has been very frustrating (it fails most of the time), so I doubt that the issues you have experienced are unique to your unit. (Also, the colors out of the regular (color) K3-iii are beautiful, but with the exception of Leica, I have yet to encounter a color camera whose output can touch the beauty of the output of my Lumix cameras.)
I've seen a few Leica samples that looked promising, but my goodness you have to pay for it. I agree the K3iii ergonomics are fantastic, just a shame about it nervous autofocus.
K1 AF is definitely not the fastest you can find but I've always found it very reliable. I've not found the K3 III AF problematic for my photography but now that you mention it, it might be a bit shakier than the K1 in that sense. Off the top of my head can't offer any further solutions besides what has already been said in other comments. Hope you figure it out and let us know if you manage to solve it.
I have the K3iii and love it, auto focus is great with both the 55-300plm and the 150-450 using Kobies guides. I also have the K1ii and I cannot fault it but I would be happier with a faster burst rate. As for the monochrome I’m tempted, seriously tempted.
Nice review and excellent photos！After watching a series k33 videos of yours, I really can see the charm of black and white photography now. BTW can you kindly share the auto focus setting you have done with K1 mark ii? I am also using one to document my kid, but find it not that reliable..
@@grantshi5051 AF.C - 9AUTO ACTIVE AREA, FOCUS PRIORITY for all settings. I use the 150-450 and 300 mainly and focus from about 3m to infinity, of which I find very reliable. However when I do close focus on moving subjects it does struggle, perhaps it's lens specific on its reliability. Hopefully this is helpful 😁
I bought a Monochrome about a month ago. It has made my film SLRs redundant. Now I only shoot film with PAS and various rangefinder cameras. The virtue of an SLR is its versatility compared to a rangefinder or PAS. With the Monochrome however we get enhanced versatility together with unmatched IQ. I still like the PAS and rangefinder cameras for film though because they are truly compact, the user experience and for the aesthetic of film. I also own the K1ii and it is the best camera I have ever handled though it is a bit of a beast when it comes to its size and weight. The quality of the design and engineering is truly outstanding, and, best of all, quality K mount MF Pentax glass works flawlessly with it with no crop involved.
As billkennon mentioned the phase detect unit in the base, also it could be the semi reflective mirror on the underside of the main mirror. I had this problem with random focusing on a k5 and k30. In fact check forums, older cameras had a de-lamination issue I think. But that mirror being dirty or oily etc randomly spreads the light on the pd unit. I just found it after many hours of calibrating focus. Another thing thats also random is some lens at focus at different depth when they shut down.. but if your k1ii works, then its not the lens. My k3iiim has so far been as good as any of my K's. So two questions: 1. Why the k1ii not k1, as k1ii has noice corrections even in raw. 2. What is your workflow? Ie shoot jpeg, or only dng and how is the raw processed (vid pretty please)?
Thanks I'll have a look at the potential mirror contamination. I chose the k1 markii for it's updated af algorithm, as I'd be using long glass it seemed a better choice. On my monochrome I usually shoot in jpeg as white ballance and colour casts are not a concern. I shoot exclusively raw on the k1 mark ii However.
It is possible that image stabilisation is spoiling autofocus at times Turn it off, which I'm sure you have already tried. The photographs you have displayed are of sufficiently high enough shutter speed to not require IBIS. just a thought. Great photographs non the less, I'm also a K1ii owner, a slower but great camera.
Re Auto focus on the K3 III Mono, given your experience, and depth of knowledge, why not contact Pentax/Ricoh and explain your attempts at working with the camera? A professional email to corporate with your background would probably help their engineers. They would probably service your camera for free, and fully test it. Great photos, thanks! Good luck.
I have K1 mark 1 and I find that fine for what I do... I heard rumours about K1 mark 3 and wonder if I can afford it. May get the mark2 as may get bargain and it seems great... I have plenty of full frame lenses so half frame seem waste.
@@essexphotographer5211 yeah I agree the K1 works perfectly fine, I think a lot of TH-camrs exaggerated about it's slow af performance. The af is steady and confident, can't ask more than that. I have noticed the k1mark ii prices have all increased recently in the UK, perhaps the markiii is coming. Upgrading from the K1 to the markii might not be worth it, unless your shutter is over 150k I wouldn't bother. But I imagine the K1 markiii will be a big change, hopefully they don't put the same nervous af as the k3iii in it.
Pentax work pretty slowly so I've learned to be patient. One extra is as I have got more short sight My purchase of Dioptric correction lenses was wise because the fixed one, I have -2/-3 and -5 work with the adaptive in camera system so I have continued being able to see well through the lens. I like this contact with the subject; you simply do not get looking at a screen. Talking how You feel about photography is important. You have succeed in this area to relay Your experience which gives credibility to Your thoughts. Well Done.
The 20-40mm is one of my favourite lenses on the K3 Mono, definitely would recommend to anyone. It's such a useful walkaround focal range and the rendering is great.
@@deanroslynmengel5575 I've only had a couple that needed it, I've been lucky that most paired perfectly. The 150-450 hits spot on for stationery subjects, it's the continuous focus that makes it jitter. Thankyou for the recommendation though 👍
The lenses are the other half of the focus issues. The PLM drive in the 55-300 is fast and accurate. The older screw-drive lenses are much slower and have a "jitter". The SDM drive lenses vary a lot in terms of speed and accuracy.
@@i.like.pixelsthe real question is do you have any older KAF lens using screw in body drive vs built in motors.. plm sdm etc etc. Yes the PLM's are fastest (and the only lens I have had a notor failure on!)
My Bif Settings; AFC Small Zone Select - Not Expanded - need fast response AF Active Area OFF Focus Priority - No point wasting time on shots not in focus also reduce blackout time Focus over Frame Rate Hold Off Drive lens when AF Fails Point Tracking Type 3 Focus Sensitivty 5 Subject Recognition ON Centre Weighted Metering - Change to Highlight Metering if Birds are Light Coloured Shake reduction OFF 1/2000sec + F6.3 ISO Auto 12fps
I got mine a week and a half ago for a road trip to Yosemite and Nevada. I have ZERO regrets purchasing it and the results I am getting are on par or better than shooting in color with my Canon and converting to B&W. I really enjoy slowing down and taking my time in composing and walking around doing so Street and building photography. Thanks for your review. It helped me with my decision to purchase one.
For slowed down b&w photography, theres very little on the market that can compare to the K3iiiMonchrome. I'm glad your having a great time with it!
More videos on this camera/lenses, many more please!
Great videos 👍, more please and welcome to the wonderful world of pentax(ians).
My experience is similar to yours. The tonal transitions of the images are breathtaking. The best camera for you is the camera that makes you want to take pictures, and this body is such a pleasure to operate that I went ahead and ordered the color version. However, the autofocus on both K3-iii’s has been very frustrating (it fails most of the time), so I doubt that the issues you have experienced are unique to your unit. (Also, the colors out of the regular (color) K3-iii are beautiful, but with the exception of Leica, I have yet to encounter a color camera whose output can touch the beauty of the output of my Lumix cameras.)
I've seen a few Leica samples that looked promising, but my goodness you have to pay for it. I agree the K3iii ergonomics are fantastic, just a shame about it nervous autofocus.
@@i.like.pixels Leica output files are essentially identical to Lumix
The problem of autodocus can be corrected With a software upadte, if you dont have the lastest
Great review, images top notch, well done.
K1 AF is definitely not the fastest you can find but I've always found it very reliable. I've not found the K3 III AF problematic for my photography but now that you mention it, it might be a bit shakier than the K1 in that sense. Off the top of my head can't offer any further solutions besides what has already been said in other comments. Hope you figure it out and let us know if you manage to solve it.
I have the K3iii and love it, auto focus is great with both the 55-300plm and the 150-450 using Kobies guides. I also have the K1ii and I cannot fault it but I would be happier with a faster burst rate. As for the monochrome I’m tempted, seriously tempted.
@barryhiggott9458 yes the k1 with a faster burst rate, or better higher buffer would be amazing!
Nice review and excellent photos！After watching a series k33 videos of yours, I really can see the charm of black and white photography now. BTW can you kindly share the auto focus setting you have done with K1 mark ii? I am also using one to document my kid, but find it not that reliable..
@@grantshi5051
AF.C - 9AUTO ACTIVE AREA, FOCUS PRIORITY for all settings.
I use the 150-450 and 300 mainly and focus from about 3m to infinity, of which I find very reliable. However when I do close focus on moving subjects it does struggle, perhaps it's lens specific on its reliability. Hopefully this is helpful 😁
I use the non monochrome k3 iii and love it, had no issues with AF, it might just be your copy of the camera is faulty, or the lens, idk?
I bought a Monochrome about a month ago. It has made my film SLRs redundant. Now I only shoot film with PAS and various rangefinder cameras. The virtue of an SLR is its versatility compared to a rangefinder or PAS. With the Monochrome however we get enhanced versatility together with unmatched IQ. I still like the PAS and rangefinder cameras for film though because they are truly compact, the user experience and for the aesthetic of film.
I also own the K1ii and it is the best camera I have ever handled though it is a bit of a beast when it comes to its size and weight. The quality of the design and engineering is truly outstanding, and, best of all, quality K mount MF Pentax glass works flawlessly with it with no crop involved.
As billkennon mentioned the phase detect unit in the base, also it could be the semi reflective mirror on the underside of the main mirror. I had this problem with random focusing on a k5 and k30. In fact check forums, older cameras had a de-lamination issue I think. But that mirror being dirty or oily etc randomly spreads the light on the pd unit. I just found it after many hours of calibrating focus.
Another thing thats also random is some lens at focus at different depth when they shut down.. but if your k1ii works, then its not the lens.
My k3iiim has so far been as good as any of my K's.
So two questions: 1. Why the k1ii not k1, as k1ii has noice corrections even in raw. 2. What is your workflow? Ie shoot jpeg, or only dng and how is the raw processed (vid pretty please)?
Thanks I'll have a look at the potential mirror contamination.
I chose the k1 markii for it's updated af algorithm, as I'd be using long glass it seemed a better choice.
On my monochrome I usually shoot in jpeg as white ballance and colour casts are not a concern. I shoot exclusively raw on the k1 mark ii However.
great video!
Just check the focus module inside the base of the camera hasn,t got any dust on it, this can give bad results on the K3 III - use a rocket blower.
It is possible that image stabilisation is spoiling autofocus at times Turn it off, which I'm sure you have already tried.
The photographs you have displayed are of sufficiently high enough shutter speed to not require IBIS. just a thought.
Great photographs non the less, I'm also a K1ii owner, a slower but great camera.
Thanks I'll give that a try
Re Auto focus on the K3 III Mono, given your experience, and depth of knowledge, why not contact Pentax/Ricoh and explain your attempts at working with the camera? A professional email to corporate with your background would probably help their engineers. They would probably service your camera for free, and fully test it. Great photos, thanks! Good luck.
I have K1 mark 1 and I find that fine for what I do... I heard rumours about K1 mark 3 and wonder if I can afford it. May get the mark2 as may get bargain and it seems great... I have plenty of full frame lenses so half frame seem waste.
@@essexphotographer5211 yeah I agree the K1 works perfectly fine, I think a lot of TH-camrs exaggerated about it's slow af performance. The af is steady and confident, can't ask more than that. I have noticed the k1mark ii prices have all increased recently in the UK, perhaps the markiii is coming.
Upgrading from the K1 to the markii might not be worth it, unless your shutter is over 150k I wouldn't bother. But I imagine the K1 markiii will be a big change, hopefully they don't put the same nervous af as the k3iii in it.
Pentax work pretty slowly so I've learned to be patient. One extra is as I have got more short sight My purchase of Dioptric correction lenses was wise because the fixed one, I have -2/-3 and -5 work with the adaptive in camera system so I have continued being able to see well through the lens. I like this contact with the subject; you simply do not get looking at a screen. Talking how You feel about photography is important. You have succeed in this area to relay Your experience which gives credibility to Your thoughts. Well Done.
I’d love to pair this with the 20-40
@@sdhute never tried that lens, but hear nothing but great things! Maybe one day 😁
The 20-40mm is one of my favourite lenses on the K3 Mono, definitely would recommend to anyone. It's such a useful walkaround focal range and the rendering is great.
@@shiroganesamfeels great in the hand too
What lenses do you have other than the one that's allegedly readable that's shown in this video You only have one facing us
I use the 28-105, 100, 55-300, 300 and 150_450.
I've sold the 18_50, 21 and 35macro
BTW I trust you have fine tuned your your camera for each of your lenses - Auto Focus Fine Tune.
@@deanroslynmengel5575 I've only had a couple that needed it, I've been lucky that most paired perfectly. The 150-450 hits spot on for stationery subjects, it's the continuous focus that makes it jitter.
Thankyou for the recommendation though 👍
The lenses are the other half of the focus issues. The PLM drive in the 55-300 is fast and accurate. The older screw-drive lenses are much slower and have a "jitter". The SDM drive lenses vary a lot in terms of speed and accuracy.
agreed, my experience with the plm has been fantastic. I cannot say the same for the other af motors...
@@i.like.pixelsthe real question is do you have any older KAF lens using screw in body drive vs built in motors.. plm sdm etc etc. Yes the PLM's are fastest (and the only lens I have had a notor failure on!)
@@flagger2020 I still have one screwdrive lens the 100mm macro
My Bif Settings;
AFC
Small Zone Select - Not Expanded - need fast response
AF Active Area OFF
Focus Priority - No point wasting time on shots not in focus also reduce blackout time
Focus over Frame Rate
Hold Off
Drive lens when AF Fails
Point Tracking Type 3
Focus Sensitivty 5
Subject Recognition ON
Centre Weighted Metering - Change to Highlight Metering if Birds are Light Coloured
Shake reduction OFF
1/2000sec +
F6.3
ISO Auto
12fps
Thanks I'll give it a try 👍