2500rpm from crank up till shut down for the full 25min is how I always broke em in. Never lost one but that was back in the day before quality went to shit. You’ll be far better off with roller than flat tappet these days.👍🏻
Thank You. This big block is getting a lot of people. I'll be glad to be done with this GMC, it has been fighting me on everything the whole way. Since April. 7 months.
You can rev the engine ffs! I've got a cam card here for a flat tappet that tells you to alternate the throttle from 1800 rpms to 3500 rpms from time to time, specifically to help splash the oil upon the camshaft!! Some people are so anal-retentive, they have to take laxatives daily in order to shit! The main thing is don't let the engine fall to an idle for any length of time, because the oil doesn't get splashed upon the camshaft, it's the whole reason you need to maintain 1800 rpms and higher. You're doing great, sometimes these new cams and lifters today are just pure Chinese crap, no fault of the engine builder! In the 70's and 80's I used to change camshafts in my driveway, engine still in car, over the course of a couple of hours. No break-in oil, no camshaft lobe lube, just put fresh oil in and drive the damned thing, never a problem. After the 2000's, cam's and lifters started failing all the time. It's directly related to companies sending their stuff over seas to China and getting it manufactured over there for pennies on the dollar, and it has nearly ruined the industry! Great videos, thanks for sharing, you're doing great!!
Yeah when breaking in the camshaft , you want to run it about 2000 to 2500 RPMs , only run it steady for quite sometime, like 5 to 10 minutes at 2000 at first, then you can run it at about 2500 for about 5 minutes, then drop it back down to about 2000 for another 5 to ten minutes, but I wouldn't run it over 2500 RPMs, and total run time is supposed to be about 20 to 30 minutes, while constantly checking your oil pressure and temperature gauges. Follow your cam manufacturer instructions for break in, if it didn't come with instructions look online at the manufacturer's website to be sure.
Brother, if its gonna die there is nothing you can do. Reving it or not. Doesn't matter. There are all these. You have ro do this, this and this to make it live. And they still die. I used rk put a flat tappet cam in and the next morning crank it up and drive to work. Not anymore. Oils have changed. Parts have changed.
Ok, I have heard it is a 50/50 chance. There are those that comment, they have done thousands and never had any fail. IDK, it is done and I am going on and try a roller cam.
You won't be able to use the rotators unless you're using shorter exhaust springs. They'd be like 0.250" - 0.375" shorter maybe....I could ge wrong though.
@@patrickm.8425 gosh darn it. the specs shows .371", my caliper shows .371". I just now went out and pushed the shank side of a 3/8" drill bit down in the hole and 3/8" is supposed to equal .375". Thank You for the info, it made me go shove that drill bit in the hole.
@@DACoutBack3/8" is 3/8" no matter where it's measured. The stem should be 0.371" and the guide will have clearance out to 0.375". Calipers aren't the best for measuring inside diameters that small. The blount edge that is pressed against the radius leaves a gap of a couple thou at least.
I would say letting it idle would be worse than reving it alil bit?? I certainly would not want to rev it very high do to being broken in with lighter weight valve springs. You certainly would not want to float a valve during break in! That would be worse than idleing!! With softer break in springs you should be able to feel like that can control it up to maybey 3000 rpm & under but you might nor know at what point they would loose control?? U wouldn't want to push it! But when I break in, I focus on getting it to 2000 or 2200 as soon as possible, then hold it for some time & now & then fluctuate rpms letting them slowing drop & then slowly rise. I wouldn't snap the throttle. Don't spike the rpms. Same for piston ring break in. But let the rpms drop to maybey 1200 to 1500 to then slowly bring them back up to 2500 to 2700 to then let them slowly come back down to 2000 to 2200. That's what I do for 20 minutes. At 20 minutes I shut it down. I let it cool. I inspect everything I can think of. Hint, look at your freeze plugs to see if any of them have moved! It's been a thing in my shop. But then after it is cool & I'm confident I've checked & rechecked, I start up & bring the rpms up again & do that cycle for another 20 minutes. Directions do not say to do this, it's just my method & has worked for me. The second one maybey is unnecessary?? But I don't think it hurts anything.
Nice work lots of good info your sharing, keep the videos coming
2500rpm from crank up till shut down for the full 25min is how I always broke em in. Never lost one but that was back in the day before quality went to shit. You’ll be far better off with roller than flat tappet these days.👍🏻
Love the videos!!! Following your build!!
Thank You. This big block is getting a lot of people. I'll be glad to be done with this GMC, it has been fighting me on everything the whole way. Since April. 7 months.
You can rev the engine ffs! I've got a cam card here for a flat tappet that tells you to alternate the throttle from 1800 rpms to 3500 rpms from time to time, specifically to help splash the oil upon the camshaft!! Some people are so anal-retentive, they have to take laxatives daily in order to shit! The main thing is don't let the engine fall to an idle for any length of time, because the oil doesn't get splashed upon the camshaft, it's the whole reason you need to maintain 1800 rpms and higher.
You're doing great, sometimes these new cams and lifters today are just pure Chinese crap, no fault of the engine builder! In the 70's and 80's I used to change camshafts in my driveway, engine still in car, over the course of a couple of hours. No break-in oil, no camshaft lobe lube, just put fresh oil in and drive the damned thing, never a problem. After the 2000's, cam's and lifters started failing all the time. It's directly related to companies sending their stuff over seas to China and getting it manufactured over there for pennies on the dollar, and it has nearly ruined the industry!
Great videos, thanks for sharing, you're doing great!!
Yeah when breaking in the camshaft , you want to run it about 2000 to 2500 RPMs , only run it steady for quite sometime, like 5 to 10 minutes at 2000 at first, then you can run it at about 2500 for about 5 minutes, then drop it back down to about 2000 for another 5 to ten minutes, but I wouldn't run it over 2500 RPMs, and total run time is supposed to be about 20 to 30 minutes, while constantly checking your oil pressure and temperature gauges.
Follow your cam manufacturer instructions for break in, if it didn't come with instructions look online at the manufacturer's website to be sure.
Brother, if its gonna die there is nothing you can do. Reving it or not. Doesn't matter. There are all these. You have ro do this, this and this to make it live. And they still die. I used rk put a flat tappet cam in and the next morning crank it up and drive to work. Not anymore. Oils have changed. Parts have changed.
Ok, I have heard it is a 50/50 chance. There are those that comment, they have done thousands and never had any fail. IDK, it is done and I am going on and try a roller cam.
@DACoutBack I've never had a roller fail!!!
@@GrandPitoVic some people say, they have. I do feel a lot more comfortable doing the roller thing.
@ 0:32....bullshit, yes indeed the rpms should vary. Splash oiling on the camshaft is better @ 2.5k rpm than qt idle
THIS!!
You won't be able to use the rotators unless you're using shorter exhaust springs. They'd be like 0.250" - 0.375" shorter maybe....I could ge wrong though.
I have the rotator eliminators in and the springs set at 1.9"
That one set of locks was 11/32....I thought the stock valve dia.is 3/8...check and make sure...
Stock valve stem size is .371"
@@DACoutBack Yep, .371 = 3/8", .343 = 11/32".
@@patrickm.8425 3/8" = .375" unless it is different in the engine world ? I am a little lost on this.
@@patrickm.8425 gosh darn it. the specs shows .371", my caliper shows .371". I just now went out and pushed the shank side of a 3/8" drill bit down in the hole and 3/8" is supposed to equal .375". Thank You for the info, it made me go shove that drill bit in the hole.
@@DACoutBack3/8" is 3/8" no matter where it's measured. The stem should be 0.371" and the guide will have clearance out to 0.375". Calipers aren't the best for measuring inside diameters that small. The blount edge that is pressed against the radius leaves a gap of a couple thou at least.
I would say letting it idle would be worse than reving it alil bit?? I certainly would not want to rev it very high do to being broken in with lighter weight valve springs. You certainly would not want to float a valve during break in! That would be worse than idleing!! With softer break in springs you should be able to feel like that can control it up to maybey 3000 rpm & under but you might nor know at what point they would loose control?? U wouldn't want to push it! But when I break in, I focus on getting it to 2000 or 2200 as soon as possible, then hold it for some time & now & then fluctuate rpms letting them slowing drop & then slowly rise. I wouldn't snap the throttle. Don't spike the rpms. Same for piston ring break in. But let the rpms drop to maybey 1200 to 1500 to then slowly bring them back up to 2500 to 2700 to then let them slowly come back down to 2000 to 2200. That's what I do for 20 minutes. At 20 minutes I shut it down. I let it cool. I inspect everything I can think of. Hint, look at your freeze plugs to see if any of them have moved! It's been a thing in my shop. But then after it is cool & I'm confident I've checked & rechecked, I start up & bring the rpms up again & do that cycle for another 20 minutes. Directions do not say to do this, it's just my method & has worked for me. The second one maybey is unnecessary?? But I don't think it hurts anything.