It depends on your main lens.. the NISI filter just changes the focus distance closer. It does not change the aperture or focal length. The close focus filters are specified by the diopter value. the Nisi has diopter of +9. in this case 1 / 9 = 0.111 meters the Raynox +8 doipter = 0.125 meters maximum distances when used with any lenses. Note it specifies MAXIMUM distance. Your lens will be able to focus closer than that by a little bit, usually by a few cm to increase the magnification further.
One big advantage for the raynox is the 52-67mm snap-on adapter, it's really comfortable to put a step down ring on the strap or somewhere else and attach the raynox to it when you don't use it.
Interesting test. Thanks, Micael. What I like most about the Raynox is the ease of use. I dislike all the screwing when it comes to filters. I'm just currently working on a waterfall photography tutorial and I once again realized how annoying it is 🤣. So I assume I'll stay with the Raynox for now.
I have the "NiSi 58mm Close-Up Lens Kit | 58mm Lens with 49mm and 52mm Adapters | Close-Up and Macro Photography" and I love it!! Had fun shooting flowers this spring!!
Better than the Raynox 250 maybe, other than the Raynox's ease of use. But I'd love to see you try out Raynox's other more advanced lenses, the MSN-202 and the MSN-505. These have +25 and +32 respectively. They have almost no presence on YT from anyone
I have the MSN-202. You can get nice results with the right combo, but it's more finicky in terms of settings/lens choice. I tried it on micro 4/3 with lenses around 50-135mm. At infinity focus with shorter lenses, the center is sharp and the corners are soft with some geometric distortion/fringing. As you focus closer or use longer lens, the corners will get better and better. It likes to be stopped down quite a bit. (for studio stacking where everything gets into focus eventually, the curvature/OOF fringing might be less relevant.) It's worth trying if you already have a native macro lens (50+) and you want to keep using it. I'd recommend staying away from infinity focus unless you have a tele macro. The small size is great, but there isn't any filter thread and the lens cap is loose, so you need to diy some kind of protection or the front lens will be in danger 0-24 :D (I got really nice results with finite microscope objective or reverse coupling a standard 28-50mm SLR lens onto a tele, both are cheaper options than buying msn202 btw)
@@idiotequedwaal I guess it's a "warning" because of the high magnification/low working distance. The MSN-202 is for "extreme macro", as far as I see somewhere around 1.5-5X is the typical use case depending on what lens you put it on. Working distance is around 3-4cm. In this high 20+ diopter range the closeup filters can't keep the quality as uniform as smaller versions like raynox 150, 250 so it'll be more dependent on the host lens. It works for sure and can produce nice results. It's worth exploring other options too if you don't need AF. I think it makes the most sense if you want to keep using your favorite low magnification lens and put something in front temporarily. Btw stacking two weaker closeups together for a medium diopter might be interesting to explore as well. Less magnification overall but you can use different combos for more versatility. They usually work decently together, if both are good quality. Think something like raynox 250 + 150 for 12.8 diopter. Two 250 on top of each other is probably pushing the limits a bit too far, but I haven't tried that. (other alternative is the macro reverse coupling method I've mentioned, which could give 20+ diopters with the right combo, but it needs telephoto as host)
@@HUNrobar i actually have the same one.i used it on my 60mm with great result, as sharp as my DCR-250 and sharper than DCR-250 stacking to get to the right magnification. May be what you got was a lemon
@@VietAnhNguyen-jp1tgMy best guess is that it's more sensitive to the recessed front element of a typical oldschool macro lens. (Which I have) On a non-macro 50mm prime lens, the corners are soft and blurry at infinity with some geometric distortion. (This is with micro 4/3, only middle 50% is sharp) When I start to focus in closer, the corners get better and better as the distorted parts get pushed out (sacrificing working distance ofc) I believe you can get quite good results if you already close focus with the 60mm macro! This way only the sharp center is utilized, and no recessed front element to complicate things :) (Small crop sensor helps quite a bit probably) For sure I'd never recommend stacking 3 raynox 250s to match 24 diopter :D I thought of reaching about half as much diopter by stacking a 250 with a second smaller diopter. These should work fine around f8-f11 I bought my msn202 new from local photography store, I think the behavior is as expected for such a strong closeup diopter
Thanks for the review! I bought one in China- it only costs 430 RMB which is about 60 USD. I plan to use it with my favourite lens which is a 50 mm f/1.2 Nokton manual lens from Voigtlander as I always carry that lens and rarely bring my bulky Laowa 100 mm around. Normally I get 0.15 x maximum magnification, and if I can double that or more, I'll be very happy! I can also try to see if extension tubes help. I'll report back with results.
Hello Micael! Thank you for this video!!! I like it very much. I guess the reason why the Raynox and the NiSi 49 results in about the same magnification is because probably the minimum focus distance from the subject to the lens might be a little different. May be with the NiSi 49 you have a little more working distance, then the extra diopter just compensate for being a little farther away from the subject. It might be because the way they are mounted to the front of the lens or the way the lens elements inside are assembled together. Thank you again for your videos!
How does this lens (or DCR-250) works combined with your Laowa 85mm at 2X magnification? And how does this combo compares to Laowa 25mm? It surely won't achive a 5X magnification, but for me anything between 3X and 4X would be great, and quite preferable option as I already own the Laowa 90mm (thanks to your recommendation btw! :) )
I just got my DCR-250 and I would say the UAC2000 snap on adapter is insane good. There ar some macro filter adapters in my camera bag but I feel bad to play with the step adapters. I think I need few more snap on adapters for ND and CPL filters. I have tested the DCR-250 on my EF-S 55-250 and 60 macro with good result. :)
Regarding the differences in apparent magnification between the two: On a lens that focuses internally by changing focal length like the 85, would the effect of +9and +8 change at a different rate? IDK. It might have been good to address how the two differ when used on lenses of different diameters. Nisi provides a 67mm adapter but it seems that there should be vignetting. They also make a 77mm. Is it a better choice for a lens with a large front? My interest in this subject is to find a way to get a closer focus with my Laowa 105 which only focuses to 0.9m but leaves a gap when used with my smallest available extension tube. It does interesting shots with small and large flowers but can not fill the frame without cropping for some medium size not quite macro subjects.
Update: I now have both the 49mm and 77mm and I was wrong to expect vignetting with the 49mm. I use it on my Canon EF100 macro, RF100-400 zoom and Laowa 85mm with fine results. With the zoom set to 400mm, the 49mm gives about 3.5:1 at a working distance of about 90mm. The challenge is finding something to shoot that small at that distance. To use it on the Laowa 85, I had to buy a 46mm adapter but it makes quite a good macro at about 3:1. I imagine the Raynox would too if you put on a 46mm step adapter within its range (52-67mm)
Thank you for pointing out both the advantages & disadvantages of these two lenses. One question please, the core of both lenses, are they made with glass or plastic? Thanks again.
Being plastic is not necessarily a bad thing as long as it deliver the same (or better) performance than metallic counterpart. Besides, it allows the adapter to to be lighter (and perhaps cheaper).
Hello Micael, I just found out about the Raynox. I have the 7artisans 60mm f2.8 1 version with extending tube. Do you know if it will be somehow possible to attach the Raynox or tape it even on the removable part?
I have the NiSi 58 & 77 close up filters. These are designed for zoom lenses and are great for when you are not using a macro lens. Could only find the original two filters on their site. Is this one out yet? Edit Found it on the USA site
Hei. Jeg har et Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens, jeg bruker også 36mm extension tubes, jeg vurderer en raynox dcr-250, hvilken ratio tror du jeg kommer opp i med dette oppsettet? Canon objektivet er 1.4x
You should not get any vignetting at macro distances, even with a rather large front element, because the lens will not use the outer edges of the front element anyway. Try setting your lens to 1:1 and hold a finger along the edge of the front element, it will probably not affect the image.
It reduces DOF. Depth of field is a function of aperture, focus distance and focal length. ie it depends on your main lens.. the NISI filter just changes the focus distance closer. It does not change the aperture or focal length. The close focus filters are specified by the diopter value. the Nisi has diopter of +9. in this case 1 / 9 = 0.111 meters the Raynox +8 doipter = 0.125 meters maximum distances when used with any lenses. Note it specifies MAXIMUM distance. Your lens will be able to focus closer than that by a little bit usually by a few cm to increase the magnification further. But by reducing focus distance it reduces DOF.
Micael, I want to buy my first camera ever (I have a lot of drone experience but none with traditional) and I want to shoot action with my 20 breed mutt with boundless energy AND I want to create my own macro universe in my basement with different objects and outside in my garden. After almost buying a Canon R8 with the Canon RF 100mm F2.8 L MACRO IS USM for around $3000 USD, I paused because I started hearing about R8 overheating issues and then I started researching more and landed on the Canon R6 Mark II with the Laowa 85mm f/5.6 2x Ultra Macro APO that you like for the same $3000 USD. What route would you go if you were me for your first mirrorless?
One thing that I didn't quite understand before buying the Laowa lens is just how difficult depth of field would be, when shooting handheld. If you plan to use a tripod and have a good lighting setup in your basement you'll do great with the laowa and a full frame, even better if you plan on focus stacking. If you want to take a bunch of shots handheld and you don't have great lighting, you might struggle. Note that you'd be able to use your 100mm for stuff other than macro - portraits with your dog out and about for example - but with the laowa, you'd need to manually focus, which with the "boundless energy" of your dog will be near impossible. Note that smaller sensors like micro four thirds do make depth of field much easier with macro. The OM-1 is really popular with macro photographers, and Micael did a recent video on it - it even has in-camera focus stacking, which will make your macro workflow 100x faster if you want to capture a deeper scene than like, 2 millimetres. Might be within your budget, I'm not sure. Would definitely be capable of capturing your dog too!
@@bill.j.pearce I had an older OM-1 macro video in my favorites from a different channel, and the one thing that stopped me there was complaints about noise in the images. Given that I won't have much reference unless I buy both a Canon and OM-1, that might be a less of a worry, but I loved everything I was seeing about the OM-1 until it got to the noise. Since your comment though, I have decided to go back and review this again now that I have researched a lot since then!
@@MicaelWidell I think yt did not allow me to post thr link to the dpreview thread where a guy tested this. Please feel free to check the thread in their forum called: Does the MC-20 help the new 90 Pro?? A study…
Hmm that does seem strange with the equal magnification beyond 1:1. As the diopter isn't placed anywhere between the sensor and the front element of the lens, it should still punch in a little more. I wonder if these differences are just more perceptual at lower magnifications. Have you got anything that is 35mm in size or a tape measure, or something of a known size, then depending on the resolution of your camera, you can calculate the actual magnification by measuring the pixels
Any idea where the real, Dorr diffusers can be purchased? I own the brilliant, Laowa 65 for my EOS M6. The DORR copies just won't fit. Thanks. The Nisi looks a good option too, but I dont go anywhere without the Raynox.
Why Nisin why? Why no front thread? Why 49mm? This ist the most drawback on the Raynox 250. Which was original designed for Camcorder, i think. Ok a small diameter makes the lens cheap. the 67mm +10 Diopter cost around 250 Euros. I am not sure but, cause the small diameter some Problem especial on fast telephoto lenses? Do anyone has already testet the 49mm Raynox against a 67mm +10 Diopter to see if the diameter have an influence on the Image? So it is for me the nisin is only a me-to product, with no advantage.
Yes, I tested it, but with a 1" camera. With the Raynox you always have vignetting in the wide angle, unless you zoom in. The Raynox is also not very suitable with the 1" camera. There was too much blurring in the image at longer focal lengths, only a small area could be seen clearly. I got other achromats for this purpose which have the appropriate diameter of the filter thread of the cameras. There is also vignetting in wide-angle in Full HD or still images, but not in 4K and the area without blur is also much larger. BTW, I have all the Raynox flip-top lenses out there. They can be handy because of this closure, but they don't always give the desired result. This one in the video can be screwed on and off. But I also wonder why only 49 mm. Of course it can be the case that these achromats behave completely differently with other objects and cameras with different sensor sizes.
I can use the raynox on my 67mm Tamron 70-300 and it works great. Zero vignetting or fringing. Think about what each lens is doing to the light incoming and you’ll figure it out.
Thanks for watching my video! My instagram, macro lens guide, free inspiration newsletter, patreon, etc: micaelwidell.com
Sorry for the double post, TH-cam has changed how we can edit ~ Returned error
It depends on your main lens.. the NISI filter just changes the focus distance closer. It does not change the aperture or focal length. The close focus filters are specified by the diopter value. the Nisi has diopter of +9. in this case 1 / 9 = 0.111 meters the Raynox +8 doipter = 0.125 meters maximum distances when used with any lenses. Note it specifies MAXIMUM distance. Your lens will be able to focus closer than that by a little bit, usually by a few cm to increase the magnification further.
One big advantage for the raynox is the 52-67mm snap-on adapter, it's really comfortable to put a step down ring on the strap or somewhere else and attach the raynox to it when you don't use it.
Also Raynox has 43mm rear thread which should screw on Canon RF 50mm 1.8 directly.
Interesting test. Thanks, Micael. What I like most about the Raynox is the ease of use. I dislike all the screwing when it comes to filters. I'm just currently working on a waterfall photography tutorial and I once again realized how annoying it is 🤣. So I assume I'll stay with the Raynox for now.
I have the "NiSi 58mm Close-Up Lens Kit | 58mm Lens with 49mm and 52mm Adapters | Close-Up and Macro Photography" and I love it!! Had fun shooting flowers this spring!!
Better than the Raynox 250 maybe, other than the Raynox's ease of use.
But I'd love to see you try out Raynox's other more advanced lenses, the MSN-202 and the MSN-505. These have +25 and +32 respectively. They have almost no presence on YT from anyone
I have the MSN-202. You can get nice results with the right combo, but it's more finicky in terms of settings/lens choice. I tried it on micro 4/3 with lenses around 50-135mm. At infinity focus with shorter lenses, the center is sharp and the corners are soft with some geometric distortion/fringing. As you focus closer or use longer lens, the corners will get better and better. It likes to be stopped down quite a bit.
(for studio stacking where everything gets into focus eventually, the curvature/OOF fringing might be less relevant.)
It's worth trying if you already have a native macro lens (50+) and you want to keep using it. I'd recommend staying away from infinity focus unless you have a tele macro.
The small size is great, but there isn't any filter thread and the lens cap is loose, so you need to diy some kind of protection or the front lens will be in danger 0-24 :D
(I got really nice results with finite microscope objective or reverse coupling a standard 28-50mm SLR lens onto a tele, both are cheaper options than buying msn202 btw)
@@HUNrobar well they do say that they're for advanced macro photographers and specialists, which in my mind reads as studio work
@@idiotequedwaal I guess it's a "warning" because of the high magnification/low working distance. The MSN-202 is for "extreme macro", as far as I see somewhere around 1.5-5X is the typical use case depending on what lens you put it on. Working distance is around 3-4cm. In this high 20+ diopter range the closeup filters can't keep the quality as uniform as smaller versions like raynox 150, 250 so it'll be more dependent on the host lens.
It works for sure and can produce nice results. It's worth exploring other options too if you don't need AF. I think it makes the most sense if you want to keep using your favorite low magnification lens and put something in front temporarily.
Btw stacking two weaker closeups together for a medium diopter might be interesting to explore as well. Less magnification overall but you can use different combos for more versatility. They usually work decently together, if both are good quality. Think something like raynox 250 + 150 for 12.8 diopter. Two 250 on top of each other is probably pushing the limits a bit too far, but I haven't tried that.
(other alternative is the macro reverse coupling method I've mentioned, which could give 20+ diopters with the right combo, but it needs telephoto as host)
@@HUNrobar i actually have the same one.i used it on my 60mm with great result, as sharp as my DCR-250 and sharper than DCR-250 stacking to get to the right magnification. May be what you got was a lemon
@@VietAnhNguyen-jp1tgMy best guess is that it's more sensitive to the recessed front element of a typical oldschool macro lens. (Which I have)
On a non-macro 50mm prime lens, the corners are soft and blurry at infinity with some geometric distortion. (This is with micro 4/3, only middle 50% is sharp) When I start to focus in closer, the corners get better and better as the distorted parts get pushed out (sacrificing working distance ofc)
I believe you can get quite good results if you already close focus with the 60mm macro! This way only the sharp center is utilized, and no recessed front element to complicate things :)
(Small crop sensor helps quite a bit probably)
For sure I'd never recommend stacking 3 raynox 250s to match 24 diopter :D I thought of reaching about half as much diopter by stacking a 250 with a second smaller diopter. These should work fine around f8-f11
I bought my msn202 new from local photography store, I think the behavior is as expected for such a strong closeup diopter
Thanks for the review! I bought one in China- it only costs 430 RMB which is about 60 USD. I plan to use it with my favourite lens which is a 50 mm f/1.2 Nokton manual lens from Voigtlander as I always carry that lens and rarely bring my bulky Laowa 100 mm around.
Normally I get 0.15 x maximum magnification, and if I can double that or more, I'll be very happy! I can also try to see if extension tubes help. I'll report back with results.
you can stack the Nisi +9 on Raynox as I do with a +10 diopter on Raynox much closer
Hello Micael! Thank you for this video!!! I like it very much. I guess the reason why the Raynox and the NiSi 49 results in about the same magnification is because probably the minimum focus distance from the subject to the lens might be a little different. May be with the NiSi 49 you have a little more working distance, then the extra diopter just compensate for being a little farther away from the subject. It might be because the way they are mounted to the front of the lens or the way the lens elements inside are assembled together. Thank you again for your videos!
How does this lens (or DCR-250) works combined with your Laowa 85mm at 2X magnification? And how does this combo compares to Laowa 25mm? It surely won't achive a 5X magnification, but for me anything between 3X and 4X would be great, and quite preferable option as I already own the Laowa 90mm (thanks to your recommendation btw! :) )
I just got my DCR-250 and I would say the UAC2000 snap on adapter is insane good. There ar some macro filter adapters in my camera bag but I feel bad to play with the step adapters. I think I need few more snap on adapters for ND and CPL filters.
I have tested the DCR-250 on my EF-S 55-250 and 60 macro with good result. :)
The raynox with it's clip is quick to mount and take off and easy to store on a diffuser like the AK. Thanks for the review!
Regarding the differences in apparent magnification between the two: On a lens that focuses internally by changing focal length like the 85, would the effect of +9and +8 change at a different rate? IDK. It might have been good to address how the two differ when used on lenses of different diameters. Nisi provides a 67mm adapter but it seems that there should be vignetting. They also make a 77mm. Is it a better choice for a lens with a large front? My interest in this subject is to find a way to get a closer focus with my Laowa 105 which only focuses to 0.9m but leaves a gap when used with my smallest available extension tube. It does interesting shots with small and large flowers but can not fill the frame without cropping for some medium size not quite macro subjects.
Update: I now have both the 49mm and 77mm and I was wrong to expect vignetting with the 49mm. I use it on my Canon EF100 macro, RF100-400 zoom and Laowa 85mm with fine results. With the zoom set to 400mm, the 49mm gives about 3.5:1 at a working distance of about 90mm. The challenge is finding something to shoot that small at that distance. To use it on the Laowa 85, I had to buy a 46mm adapter but it makes quite a good macro at about 3:1. I imagine the Raynox would too if you put on a 46mm step adapter within its range (52-67mm)
can you stack the Nisi onto the Raynox? Would be curious about the results.
Yes should be possible. I may try it at some point :)
Also curious to see the results 🤔
Both of those are very nice lenses. I wish I can try the NISI with my GoPro. I believe it should work after bit of fiddling.
Thank you for pointing out both the advantages & disadvantages of these two lenses. One question please, the core of both lenses, are they made with glass or plastic? Thanks again.
I must assume they are both glass. I don’t think you would get this sharpness with plastic
@@MicaelWidell Thanks again
would like to have seen an image of 2x mag with the laowa vs 2x mag + adapter.
Being plastic is not necessarily a bad thing as long as it deliver the same (or better) performance than metallic counterpart. Besides, it allows the adapter to to be lighter (and perhaps cheaper).
Yeah I personally agree 100%. I prefer plastic lenses over metal ones because of the lower weight (and often lower price).
Have you tried a laowa lens and raynox? How did it perform?
Does it give you x3-x4?
And have you used the nisi and raynox all together?
Thank you Micael. What about the weight difference? The Raynox seems lighter.
Yes the raynox is lighter. But the weight of any of them is not noticeable in comparison to the weight of your lens and camera.
That’s my eyeglasses prescription 🤪
thank you for informing us on new stuff coming out.
I guess you can't use the NISI 49mm with the pope shield, is that right?
If it has no filter thread on the front I can’t see how you could add a pope shield except gluing it there
@@MicaelWidellI was wondering if the pope shield has a filter tread but I guess not. That's unfortunate.
It doesn’t. At least not mine
I just got the 77 from your other video, should I return it and get this one, or are they for different things?
This one is if you want stronger magnification and have a smaller diameter lens. The 77mm is perfect if you have a long telephoto zoom.
Hello Micael,
I just found out about the Raynox.
I have the 7artisans 60mm f2.8 1 version with extending tube. Do you know if it will be somehow possible to attach the Raynox or tape it even on the removable part?
I have the NiSi 58 & 77 close up filters. These are designed for zoom lenses and are great for when you are not using a macro lens.
Could only find the original two filters on their site. Is this one out yet?
Edit
Found it on the USA site
Release date should be today. Perhaps it comes in a few hours.
Hei. Jeg har et Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens, jeg bruker også 36mm extension tubes, jeg vurderer en raynox dcr-250, hvilken ratio tror du jeg kommer opp i med dette oppsettet? Canon objektivet er 1.4x
Nice, did you try full frame with e.g. Sony 90mm Macro which has 62mm filter thread? Vignetting?
You should not get any vignetting at macro distances, even with a rather large front element, because the lens will not use the outer edges of the front element anyway. Try setting your lens to 1:1 and hold a finger along the edge of the front element, it will probably not affect the image.
@@MicaelWidell Hmm, different experience. I tried the Raynox DCR-250 on the Sony 90mm Macro with 62mm and had vignetting.
@@gerhardwiesinger Even at 1:1 magnification?
@@gerhardwiesinger Depends on the focal distance, i have a Laowa 100mm at 1:4 is have vigentting, but at 1:1 or 2:1 thers is absolutly no vigentting.
Have you tried the raynox 250 on the laowa 90mm x2?
I've been thinking about buying it but read that it doesnt work that well.
I’m literally trying to figure out this too!!
@@leocasi405 I bought it but i havent tested it yet but it should be great. Ive found some really nice images of people using the combination.
Can this be used on the Olympus 60mm Macro?
Yes, I tried it and it worked well
What does it do to depth of field?
It reduces DOF. Depth of field is a function of aperture, focus distance and focal length. ie it depends on your main lens.. the NISI filter just changes the focus distance closer. It does not change the aperture or focal length. The close focus filters are specified by the diopter value. the Nisi has diopter of +9. in this case 1 / 9 = 0.111 meters the Raynox +8 doipter = 0.125 meters maximum distances when used with any lenses. Note it specifies MAXIMUM distance. Your lens will be able to focus closer than that by a little bit usually by a few cm to increase the magnification further. But by reducing focus distance it reduces DOF.
Micael, I want to buy my first camera ever (I have a lot of drone experience but none with traditional) and I want to shoot action with my 20 breed mutt with boundless energy AND I want to create my own macro universe in my basement with different objects and outside in my garden. After almost buying a Canon R8 with the Canon RF 100mm F2.8 L MACRO IS USM for around $3000 USD, I paused because I started hearing about R8 overheating issues and then I started researching more and landed on the Canon R6 Mark II with the Laowa 85mm f/5.6 2x Ultra Macro APO that you like for the same $3000 USD. What route would you go if you were me for your first mirrorless?
One thing that I didn't quite understand before buying the Laowa lens is just how difficult depth of field would be, when shooting handheld. If you plan to use a tripod and have a good lighting setup in your basement you'll do great with the laowa and a full frame, even better if you plan on focus stacking. If you want to take a bunch of shots handheld and you don't have great lighting, you might struggle.
Note that you'd be able to use your 100mm for stuff other than macro - portraits with your dog out and about for example - but with the laowa, you'd need to manually focus, which with the "boundless energy" of your dog will be near impossible.
Note that smaller sensors like micro four thirds do make depth of field much easier with macro. The OM-1 is really popular with macro photographers, and Micael did a recent video on it - it even has in-camera focus stacking, which will make your macro workflow 100x faster if you want to capture a deeper scene than like, 2 millimetres. Might be within your budget, I'm not sure. Would definitely be capable of capturing your dog too!
@@bill.j.pearce I had an older OM-1 macro video in my favorites from a different channel, and the one thing that stopped me there was complaints about noise in the images. Given that I won't have much reference unless I buy both a Canon and OM-1, that might be a less of a worry, but I loved everything I was seeing about the OM-1 until it got to the noise. Since your comment though, I have decided to go back and review this again now that I have researched a lot since then!
Interesting fact: the nisi seems to work with the new 90mm m.zuiko. but the raynox does not.
What happens when you put the Raynox on the 90mm?
@@MicaelWidell I think yt did not allow me to post thr link to the dpreview thread where a guy tested this. Please feel free to check the thread in their forum called: Does the MC-20 help the new 90 Pro?? A study…
Hmm that does seem strange with the equal magnification beyond 1:1. As the diopter isn't placed anywhere between the sensor and the front element of the lens, it should still punch in a little more. I wonder if these differences are just more perceptual at lower magnifications. Have you got anything that is 35mm in size or a tape measure, or something of a known size, then depending on the resolution of your camera, you can calculate the actual magnification by measuring the pixels
Yes I agree this seems strange and unexpected. But I tried it with two different macro lenses. Hope someone can give me an explanation.
Any idea where the real, Dorr diffusers can be purchased? I own the brilliant, Laowa 65 for my EOS M6. The DORR copies just won't fit.
Thanks. The Nisi looks a good option too, but I dont go anywhere without the Raynox.
Why Nisin why?
Why no front thread?
Why 49mm?
This ist the most drawback on the Raynox 250. Which was original designed for Camcorder, i think.
Ok a small diameter makes the lens cheap. the 67mm +10 Diopter cost around 250 Euros.
I am not sure but, cause the small diameter some Problem especial on fast telephoto lenses?
Do anyone has already testet the 49mm Raynox against a 67mm +10 Diopter to see if the diameter have an influence on the Image?
So it is for me the nisin is only a me-to product, with no advantage.
Yes, I tested it, but with a 1" camera. With the Raynox you always have vignetting in the wide angle, unless you zoom in. The Raynox is also not very suitable with the 1" camera. There was too much blurring in the image at longer focal lengths, only a small area could be seen clearly. I got other achromats for this purpose which have the appropriate diameter of the filter thread of the cameras. There is also vignetting in wide-angle in Full HD or still images, but not in 4K and the area without blur is also much larger. BTW, I have all the Raynox flip-top lenses out there. They can be handy because of this closure, but they don't always give the desired result. This one in the video can be screwed on and off. But I also wonder why only 49 mm. Of course it can be the case that these achromats behave completely differently with other objects and cameras with different sensor sizes.
I can use the raynox on my 67mm Tamron 70-300 and it works great. Zero vignetting or fringing. Think about what each lens is doing to the light incoming and you’ll figure it out.
On a full frame too
Sony Alpha stock lenses are 49 mm.
Although I not in macro photography, I vote for the nisi lens
I just bought raynox 250 and nisi 58mm 😂
They are also good :)
Did you use them together? And how was the result?